VAZ 2110 starter does not turn

The starter on the VAZ 2110 is a simple brushed DC motor, powered by the car’s battery. It should be noted that at any engine speed its power will be quite high; this parameter of collector internal combustion engines is well implemented in the unit. Even if the load on the device varies, the power level will always be the same. However, if the device works slowly or poorly, turns, clicks, but the internal combustion engine does not start when you turn the key, then you need to pay attention to diagnosing each component.

VAZ 2110 starter does not work - where to look for the problem

Problems with starter failure can occur at the most unexpected moment. Since the engine cannot be started, the problem turns out to be quite serious. But you can try to solve this problem yourself.

It is no secret that it is impossible to start a car without a starter. Therefore, his condition should always be treated with increased attention. If it was not possible to save the element, then it is quite possible to carry out the repair yourself. It will be much cheaper than going to a service station.

First, study the VAZ 2110 starter from the photo, which will allow you to get a first idea about it. Don't worry if you've never even seen this element. This is not a hindrance to understanding the device.

stator with winding;
metal sleeve installed on the back cover;
rotor with winding and lamellas;
a planetary device consisting of three gears, which are activated as a result of the influence of the rotor on them;
relay;
another element - bendix - designed to connect the axis of rotation of the unit to the crown of the injector flywheel;
directly the body itself.

As practice shows, all components of this unit are characterized by high reliability, however, in the event of a breakdown, it is necessary to completely or partially replace the devices.

Why does the starter work poorly? As a rule, in this case the reason is the wear of the brushes - in some cases you can replace them by unscrewing the worn elements and replacing them with new ones.

This is what the flywheel crown of a VAZ 2110 looks like in perfect condition

But sometimes manufacturers equip cars with disposable mechanisms, so car enthusiasts have to solder the device in order to restore its functionality. In this case, it must be taken into account that soldering with tin is undesirable, since the brushes will get very hot, then it is more advisable to resort to the method of welding copper wires with current.

VAZ 2110 starter stopped turning, where to start repairs

Before disassembling the starter, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the wiring and some components. Perhaps the problem lies with them.

First of all, check if the battery is charged.
Then, using a tester, check whether voltage is supplied to the auxiliary relay terminal.
It is also necessary to check whether power is supplied from the ignition switch. To do this, remove the connector from the relay, connect the tester and turn the key to start. When you turn the key to this position, power should appear at the connector.

If no malfunctions were identified during this check, and the starter on the VAZ-2110 still does not turn, then it is necessary to remove it and determine the cause of the malfunction.

DIY VAZ 2110 starter repair - video

Safety block, wires, terminal blocks

The so-called black box of the motorist, in which fuses and relays are located, quite rightly comes into question in such situations. A short circuit or simply stagnation of contacts may occur in the block. Experienced motorists recommend not hitting the block too hard, this really helps.

If that doesn’t help, find the terminal blocks with the power wires and clean them thoroughly from oxides. Then carefully solder everything.

You can also test the ignition switch and clean the chips whose wires go to the starter. It is better to replace the nuts on the terminals with brass ones to make contact better.

Malfunctions and methods for checking the VAZ 2110 starter retractor relay

You got behind the wheel, turned the key, the instrument panel turned on, and the fuel pump started working. You turn further, but the panel turns off and the starter is silent. You release the key, the panel lights up again and the fuel pump starts working.

First of all, check if there is voltage going to the solenoid relay. Is it coming? Try closing the starter. Refuses to turn? Disconnect the alarm system, it may also be the cause, just like the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110 itself.

Burnt contact of the starter solenoid relay VAZ 2110

Have you discovered that everything works in “independent mode”, but together it fails? This means that the solenoid relay is faulty and should be replaced.

This component of the system is a simple electromagnet.

This electromagnet includes:

the body itself, made of a non-magnetic base;
the so-called anchor, which is also a magnet;
winding installed in the device body;
two copper contacts, as well as a plate that closes them.

As for the principle of operation, it is quite simple. Two wires are supplied to the relay - from the battery and from the ignition switch (voltage appears on this wire only if the key is turned all the way).

When the driver releases the key, the voltage disappears. During the generation of voltage, the relay begins to operate, and the winding inside it is under the influence of voltage. As a result, the attraction of the so-called armature occurs, which subsequently begins to act on the rod located in the lower part of the electromagnet.

VAZ 2110 starter retractor relays in a box

This rod is directly connected to a jumper designed to close the contacts when voltage appears. At the same moment, the gear moves relative to the mechanism pulley. As a result, voltage begins to flow to the windings of the electric motor, as a result of which the flywheel rotates, and with it the crankshaft of the VAZ 2110 engine begins to rotate

Prevention

Actually, prevention is necessary for all systems and components of the car. But most often, the driver himself is to blame for a “missed” minor malfunction of the fuel pump, which leads to its subsequent failure.

Need to:

listen to how the car works, and not to its musical part;
regularly check the condition of the filters and change them on time;
at least after winter (or better yet, when the season changes), remove and wash the gas tank. At the same time, check the serviceability of the fuel pump and change the mesh in it.

The blender or crown of the VAZ 2110 is faulty - how to check

Bendix is a device consisting of two parts - an overrunning clutch, as well as a gear, which is located directly on it

It should be noted that the overrunning clutch is directly connected to the starter pulley thanks to splines installed in a spiral. The mechanism moves along these slots when the driver tries to start the engine.

Blendix VAZ 2110 in perfect condition

If the starter does not click and does not work or works slowly even when hot, the problem may lie in the bendix. In addition, there is another fork on the device, consisting of two metal plates mounted directly on the overrunning clutch. This fork is attached to two opposite points of the element. One of the edges of the plates is made in the form of a rectangle.

When the driver turns the key in the ignition, the retractor relay acts on these plates. Next, the gear moves along the pulley using splines until the element engages with the flywheel rim.

Checking the overrunning clutch of the VAZ 2110 starter

A cold engine starts without the slightest problem. You are driving quietly, stopping somewhere - to go to the store or for other matters. You return a few minutes later and are faced with a problem: the starter clicks, but refuses to work. And only after the engine has cooled down the car starts.

The first culprit in this situation is the overrunning clutch (popularly called Bendix, from the name of the well-known manufacturer of this part). It is better to replace it with a gearbox.

But you check and there is no malfunction? The next line is the wires going to the battery. Examine them carefully. It is quite possible that replacing the wire will solve all the issues.

Starter VAZ 2110 disassembled

There may be another situation: while on the road, the radio starts to turn off spontaneously, despite your attempts to turn it on. Having stopped to look and turned off your VAZ 2110, you soon discover that you cannot get the starter to crank. We checked the battery, everything is fine, but the car, which previously started normally, suddenly struggles.

You start pushing, and it works, everything works again. Almost certainly the problem is in the Bendix.

Wiring

On almost all car models, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: “positive”, “negative” and a wire for determining the amount of fuel in the tank.
If the fuel pump stops pumping, the wiring may be damaged. You can check the power using a 12 W lamp, powering it from the external connector of the fuel pump. When the ignition is turned on, the light should light up. If not, then the external circuit is broken somewhere. To check the external wiring, you need to connect in turn the “positive” and “negative” contacts removed from the fuel pump power connector. It is necessary to close the “negative” contact to ground, after which the light will light up when the ignition is turned on. So, it can be determined that the contact is inoperative. If the lamp does not light up, then the “positive” contact is damaged. Placing a contact on the relay in which the light does not light up, there may be a problem with the wiring in the section from the relay to the fuel pump.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the VAZ 2110 starter

In order to remove and replace a faulty VAZ 2110 starter, you will need to perform the following procedure:

Remove the negative terminal from the battery
Disconnect the control wire of the traction relay.
Remove the positive terminal of the starter using a key at “13”
Unscrew the mounting nuts securing the starter to the clutch housing.
Removing the starter
Using the “10” socket, unscrew the traction relay output nut.
Next, remove the wire end.
Then, using the “8” socket, unscrew the mounting bolts of the traction relay and remove it.
At the very end, the gasket is removed, which seals the connection between the front cover of the starter and the relay.
Remove the traction relay armature and spring from the front cover.

Is the problem caused by the alarm?

A blocking relay can be installed in the starter circuit when installing an alarm system. And many alarms need to meet certain conditions in order to remove the blocking. The simplest thing: the on-board voltage must be greater than 11 Volts.

Alarm with blocking relay

Conclusion: the starter may not operate when cold if the battery is discharged and the car has an alarm system. So, we remove the battery, charge it and install it back.

Almost every car owner of this, in principle, the best car in the domestic automobile industry (let alone the worst!) can encounter a situation when suddenly the starter of a VAZ 2110 does not turn. But, as you know, if you don’t start, you won’t drive, which means you need to, firstly, find the reason why the starter still refuses to turn the engine, and secondly, eliminate the detected faults.

New starter for VAZ 2110

Let's try to follow the path of looking at symptoms and finding solutions.

All features of the standard scheme

The reader will be surprised, but there will be more than one scheme here. The most difficult option is shown below.

Scheme with additional starter relay

Please note: relay K2 is not “unloading” at all. A significant current flows through the lock contacts, and relay K2 can be called “blocking”: when it does not work, the starter does not turn. Why is this necessary, think for yourself.

If an attacker closes the contacts in the lock, he will not only be unable to start the engine, but also not use the starter. That is, the hijacker will not drain our battery.

The circuit shown above is used with 1.6 liter injection engines. There may be another option - a simpler one.

Scheme without additional relay

There is no blocking relay here. The current flows to the solenoid relay from pin 50. A simple version of the circuit is typical for cars from early years of production. Which applies to the entire “Ten” family, including hatchbacks. That is, an interesting combination occurs: the model is VAZ-2112, and the starter will turn even in the absence of all relays and ECUs!

The starter doesn't turn, what happens?

We know that there are two variants of the scheme. If “option 2” is implemented, voltage to the starter is supplied directly from the lock. But the ignition switch in the “Tens” is short-lived, since 30-40 Amperes are transmitted through it (the current of the solenoid relay). This is true for both the sedan and the 2112 hatchback, and the starter may not turn only because the lock is broken. Draw your conclusions!

All of the above also applies to “diagram 1” - look at it carefully.

The main relay is located in the extension block. It is located under the stove on the right. An additional relay is located in the main unit (see photo). However, it may be missing.

If “option 2” is implemented, check only the lock. And if there is an additional relay, it is not recommended to install a jumper instead. Marked in the photo:

Additional relay (white arrow);
Main relay (element “6”).

When the solenoid relay is at fault

Have you discovered that everything works in “independent mode”, but together it fails? This means that the solenoid relay is faulty and should be replaced.

Price issue

Many owners are interested in how much this device costs and which starter is best to choose for the VAZ 2110. A standard unit from AvtoVAZ will cost about 5,000 rubles. Imported analogues are also suitable for the VAZ 2110. For example, you can take the BOSCH model, which costs about 10 thousand rubles.

There are also budget freelance models on the automotive market; they can be purchased for 3 thousand rubles. Whatever the starter, it should come with a warranty. Of course, the imported version works better, but the standard device has an excellent price-quality ratio.

The overrunning clutch has failed

The first culprit in this situation is the overrunning clutch (popularly called Bendix, from the name of the well-known manufacturer of this part). It is better to replace it with a gearbox.

But you check and there is no malfunction? The next line is the wires going to the battery. Examine them carefully. It is quite possible that replacing the wire will solve all the issues.

You start pushing, and it works, everything works again. Almost certainly the problem is in the Bendix.

What to buy?

2110-3708010, -03, 04 – 9 teeth, 2 holes;

On the right is the BOSCH starter, on the left is PROMO-ISKRA

The choice depends on the type of gearbox. And nothing else.

Chemistry

There is no need to clean copper with WD-40 - after that everything will only get worse. Special equipment needed:

Ammonia;
ASIDOL (Lenbytkhim LLC) - excellent, by the way, also polishes glass;
Molykote S-1002;
Kontakt 60 or 100 (acid) and WL (wash);
CRAMOLIN ContaClean (acid).

CRAMOLIN requires a remover. It's easier to take an eraser and ammonia.

No contact

The starter starts with difficulty, before clicking. At first you are only slightly alarmed, but the situation repeats itself again and again: first it clicks, and only then the engine turns.

Have you checked your contacts lately? You need to start with the battery, maybe you are wrong to blame the starter, and the reason is oxidation of the terminals. Have you cleaned them and the starter clicks again? You need to check how your VAZ has ground contact with the body, and then the contacts of the starter itself, because they are also prone to oxidation.

Another test method: ask someone to turn the ignition key, while you yourself knock on the relay, using only a hard object. If it starts, it means that the closing contacts (nickels) are stuck, and it is easier to change the relay than to disassemble and repair it.

The injector can also fail

In fact, we have sorted out almost all starter malfunctions associated with the operation of the VAZ 2110 carburetor engine. There are also injection engines, which are fashionable to install on cars today. Yes, they are more environmentally friendly, reduce fuel consumption, increase power performance, and the engine does not require warming up in winter.

But the injector is unlikely to “rejoice” at insufficiently high-quality gasoline; its repair is more expensive, since it operates under the control of a microprocessor. And in our operating conditions, this can also be the reason why the starter does not work well. Perhaps the injector requires cleaning (and this should be done regularly, since low-quality gasoline contributes to the deposition of resins and impurities).

We looked at the main faults of the VAZ 2110 starter, but not the only possible ones. If you monitor the operation of all components and devices on the car and respond in a timely manner to even minor failures, then your starter will properly turn the engine, the car will start, and you will travel for pleasure.

Repair work

On a carburetor VAZ 2110 it is easier to replace the fuel pump if necessary. It is located under the hood and is not difficult to get to. It is enough to disconnect the pipelines, then unscrew the pump itself.

The electric fuel pump installed on an injection machine is located directly in the gas tank, so it is more difficult to get to it; this is done from the passenger compartment by removing the rear seat.

All fuel pumps are dismountable. After removing the cover, the mesh is removed and its condition is assessed. Of course, you can wash it, but it’s even better to replace it right away. Before starting repairs, you should purchase a repair kit, which must be equipped with a mesh.