Why does the Priora jerk at low speeds?

In relation to a car, a jerk is a short-term spontaneous change in the speed of the engine crankshaft, regardless of the position of the accelerator pedal.

In everyday use, as a rule, there are a series of jerks. The extreme case of a jerk is a failure - a noticeable delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

Conventionally, three types of jerks can be distinguished:

- at the moment of starting movement;

– with steady motion, i.e. with the accelerator pedal in constant position.

To determine the causes of jerks when driving a car with an injection engine, special diagnostic equipment is required, so in this case we recommend contacting a service that specializes in repairing fuel injection systems.

As practice shows, in most cases jerking is caused by insufficient fuel pressure in the fuel rail, malfunction of the throttle position sensor or mass air flow sensor.

If you have some skills, you can determine the cause of jerking yourself.

In what cases is a car “jerking” detected?

Most cases of car “jerking” are associated with problems with wear of spare parts or clogging of one of the car’s systems. While driving, you can detect vehicle twitching at the following stages:

When starting only at the beginning of the car's movement;
When driving at low speeds;
During a sudden increase in speed;
When driving at high speed;
When driving in any mode (periodic shocks at different periods of time).

Consider the case of a vehicle malfunction when driving at low speeds.

Nutrition

A missed flash may occur due to the fact that there is simply nothing there to burn, that is, to flash. So first, start the engine. When it has been running for a couple of minutes, turn it off and remove the spark plug. If it turns out to be dry, then the reason is the lack of fuel. There may be several reasons for this situation:

The most common cause of 16 valves on a Priora is damage to the injector winding. You can check this by removing the cover and manifold. Then measure the resistance on the injector winding; it should be within 15-15 Ohms. If it is faulty, it should be replaced. Read more about how to do this in the article “How to check an injector nozzle”;
Another reason is a clogged injector. This usually happens when using low-quality fuel. You can also “clog” these engine elements yourself by pouring various cleaners into the tank. They partially destroy sediments. Which, in the form of a suspension, enter the injector, where they get stuck in the nozzles. To fix the problem, you need to flush the injectors. You can do this yourself without removing them from the engine.

What causes the car to jerk when running at low speeds?

Since the car begins to twitch when reaching even low speeds, it will not be possible to immediately identify one specific problem. Problems may be hidden:

In the engine fuel mixture supply system;
In the vehicle ignition system;
At the checkpoint;
In the distributor design;
Includes fuel filters;
In the sparking system;
In the control unit of the vehicle's on-board computer.

Let's go through the faults in each of the listed systems in detail.

Tip: When detecting a “jerking” behavior in the vehicle, the brakes may also squeak when braking. These 2 problems can be either interrelated or indicate completely different breakdowns.

Checking the engine fuel mixture supply system

Often the reason that the car jerks at low speeds is due to a malfunction of the power system. When the car starts to move, the cylinders simply cannot receive the required amount of fuel mixture, as a result of which the car is unable to transfer the required amount of power to the chassis for smooth driving and smooth commissioning of the transmission. As a result of increased pressure and transmission resistance, uneven running of the machine appears.

To solve this problem, it is recommended that you first pay attention to checking the throttle body. It also wouldn’t hurt to test and diagnose the performance of the sensors installed in the system for determining idle speed indicators. Do not forget to check the serviceability of the throttle valve position and the mass air flow sensor.

Throttle body

During diagnostics, most often a breakdown is found in the injectors responsible for uniform injection of the fuel mixture. In rare cases, engine jerking problems may be related to the air ducts that connect the injector receiver to the air filter structure. Here the problem lies in depressurization of connections and loss of pressure.

The solution to the problem is to replace all faulty components yourself or with the help of car service specialists. After repair, it is recommended to ensure that all connections are in good working order and that there is no loss of pressure in the fuel line system that is connected to the fuel pump itself.

If a power unit with a carburetor system was installed in the engine compartment of your vehicle, then you need to check the idle valve and the absence of damage directly to the carburetor.

Checking the car's ignition system

Sometimes the car starts to jerk while driving at low speeds as a result of a breakdown in the ignition system. Basically, the problem will be caused due to untimely ignition of the fuel mixture and air flow. In rare cases, the malfunction may be hidden in the receipt of low voltage from the spark plugs. The spark voltage simply will not be enough to ignite the fuel mixture in a timely manner. Also, when diagnosing the ignition system, check:

Performance of ignition coils;
Serviceability of the spark plug set;
No tears in high-voltage wires;
There are no problems in the ignition distributor-interruptor (in simple terms - in the distributor);
Correctness of values coming from a set of sensors responsible for the position of the camshaft and crankshaft;
The performance of the switch located inside the entire structure.

Reason 4 – fuel filter

This is perhaps one of the most common reasons why the Lada Priora twitches.

Like any other filter, the fuel filter becomes clogged over time. The reason is low-quality fuel and dusty air, so it is better to refuel at proven gas stations.

You can check a clogged filter yourself using a conventional pressure gauge, tube and clamp. For this:

Unscrew the cap from the fuel rail fitting.
Using the tire nipple cap, unscrew the spool and connect the pressure gauge, securing the tube with a clamp.
Start the car and check the pressure reading. If it is less than normal - 3.8-4 kgf/cm2, the cause of the twitching most likely lies in the filter.

At a service center, a pressure check service will cost about 300 rubles.

You can replace the fuel filter at home. The part costs about 300 rubles. If there is no desire or opportunity, contact the service center. There they will charge from 500 rubles for the service.

Also read: Risks of purchasing and maintaining Volkswagen Polo V

Idle speed sensor

If the car jerks while driving, first you need to check the idle speed sensor. A malfunction of the idle speed sensor is very difficult to identify, since most often it does not cause a Check Engine error, which signals the presence of problems and shows which unit is not working.

There are three main faults

Sensor contamination. The sensor is contaminated with oils, dust, oils, crankcase gases
Mechanical damage associated with the rod, threaded connection, rivets flying out, etc.
Failure of the electrical part. These malfunctions include winding combustion or a short circuit inside the sensor.

Engine troubles when accelerating Priora

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I would be glad to have any thoughts on this matter, as at 60 thousand mileage some problems only appear.

The check is flashing - it means misfire. This is already understandable - it’s a troit. So diagnostics will not give anything.

How will it determine which cylinder (coil)?

Is there something to replace the voltage wires with as a test?

But he doesn't have them. Neither central. no other. The coil is weird (already answered). The problem is identifying it.

Ignition system

One of the reasons why the car jerks while driving may be a faulty ignition system. The ignition system consists of:

Candles
Ignition coils or module
High voltage wires
Distributor
ECU

Depending on the car, some elements may not be present, but the essence does not change.

In order to ignite the fuel in a specific cylinder, a spark is needed. To form it, the ECU supplies a small voltage to the ignition module. The ignition module increases this voltage, and from it it is transmitted through high-voltage wires to the spark plug. If everything happened without any problems, then a spark appears at the spark plug and the compressed fuel mixture ignites.

If there are problems (most often this is a breakdown of any element of the system), then a spark does not appear on the spark plug, the fuel does not ignite and the car begins to twitch when driving at low speeds and during acceleration.

Reason 2 - ignition coils

The signs of this malfunction are the same as for spark plugs - misfire. As a result, the Priora jerks at speed, and the revs drop when you press the gas sharply. The reason may be candles - they are either of low quality or incorrectly selected.

The malfunction can be determined by pulling out the ignition coils one by one. If you disconnect a working coil, the tripping will increase, but if you disconnect a faulty coil, there will be no change.

The issue price is from 850 rubles for an analogue.

Also read: Five with a minus: what is wrong with Skoda Octavia A5 engines

Transmission

Sometimes the car jerks at low speeds due to the clutch. This may be due to the fact that the springs on the disk, which are needed for a smoother transmission of torque, have failed.

On some cars, for example the 8th generation Honda Civic, jerking when pressing the clutch is a disease and can be treated by lubricating the fork, which moves the release bearing. As for cars with an automatic transmission, kicks and jerks when starting off indicate that the automatic transmission is on the brink, and will most likely need to be repaired soon.

Priora stalls while driving and idling - logbook of Lada Priora Sedan 2008 on DRIVE2

Hello Priorovods! In general, they recently rebuilt my engine, changed the oil pump, the pistons with lightweight STK plug-in ones (inset rings), the oil receiver, took the block and head to be bored (that’s where I got the piston), luk clutch, 4.1 spider insert. instead of the catalytic converter, hydraulics, caps, seals, gaskets, oil with filter (all this came out to 20 tr.) the whole thing was collected and I went home here, before the pedestrian crossing, I switch from 3rd to 2nd gear and the car stalls, I start the food and then decided drive a little bit test I'm standing at the intersection waiting for the green car with the handbrake not in gear and it stalled again figs with it I start the food further in the end I got home the next day I went to pick up my sister the car again stalled not all the time but sometimes I called those who were capital they say come and change spark plugs and adjust the throttle cable. I went and bought spark plugs and decided to buy an idle air regulator just in case. I’ve already replaced 3 of them, I probably came across fakes, now I took Hoefer spark plugs, changed the regulator, also happy, I went home the next day, again the car stalls while driving and it stalls when I press the clutch to change gears, I often noticed that the revolutions drop to 500 (the light comes on for a second battery) and then normalize, and when I started it up and drove on, the immobilizer warning light came on for a while, but if you drive longer, it doesn’t seem to stall. What could be the problem? I’m thinking of changing the fuel pump, after the capital check the check hasn’t come out yet, so I haven’t checked it yet

Guys, who made the capital, I don’t want to disturb the holidays after all

Electric gas pedal

A common reason when the car jerks is the failure of the electronic gas pedal. Modern cars have an electronic gas pedal. It works on the principle of a potentiometer and has a structure similar to it. Like any potentiometer, it has tracks along which the sensor runs. This sensor is mechanically connected to the pedal.

Although the gas pedal housing is hermetically sealed, it sometimes happens that moisture gets into it, and as you know, electronics do not like moisture. Since the tracks are made of metal, they begin to corrode. This reduces contact with the sensor. The pedal starts to work incorrectly and the car jerks when you press it. Dips are felt both at idle and while driving.

Jerking when starting to move

At the moment the movement begins, the limiting case of a jerk—failure—most often occurs.

The most unpleasant sensations are associated precisely with the delay in the engine's response to pressing the accelerator pedal.

Sometimes the engine even stalls.

A jerk occurs at the moment the throttle valve begins to open, when, based on a signal from the throttle position sensor, the ECU determines the moment of transition from idle mode to load mode and must increase the amount of fuel supplied through the injectors.

If the pressure in the fuel line is insufficient (even if the injection duration is increased), there is not enough fuel for a smooth start.

Jerks during acceleration

The cause of jerking during acceleration may be, as in the previous case, insufficient fuel pressure in the fuel line.

The electronic engine control unit, having received a signal from the throttle position sensor about the intensive opening of the throttle at a large angle, strives to maximize the fuel supply, but due to the reduced fuel pressure it is not able to do this.

The reasons for this phenomenon and the method of verification are the same as in the previous case.

Jerks during steady motion

Such jerking is most often caused by a malfunction of the ignition system. Diagnosis and repair are required.

Along the way, you can try the following on your own:

– carefully inspect the engine compartment.

Turn off the ignition and check that the wiring harness connectors are securely attached to the ignition coils.

Start the engine and listen to its operation: the crackling sound when the high voltage breaks down to ground is weak, but distinct.

In complete darkness, the spark during breakdown is clearly visible;

– replace spark plugs regardless of their condition and mileage.

Pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs: if they are abnormal, the engine or its systems may need to be repaired.

A specific cause of jerking during steady motion of a car with an injection engine may be sensor failure

throttle position. Additional symptoms confirming the malfunction of this sensor are:

– uneven operation of the engine at idle;

– reduction in maximum engine power.

The sensor is non-separable and therefore cannot be repaired. If a sensor malfunction is detected, it is replaced as an assembly.

The car accelerates poorly

There are many reasons for the deterioration of dynamics, the main ones can be defined as follows.

1. Engine malfunction: decreased compression in one or more cylinders, leakage of additional air into the engine intake tract.

Coking of the exhaust system or damage to the exhaust gas converter (if the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic converter).

2. Malfunction of the power supply system: clogged injectors and fuel filter, hoses of the fuel supply system. Insufficient fuel pump supply. Use of low quality fuel.

3. Malfunction of the ignition system: failure of the spark plug, breakdown of the high-voltage circuit of the system.

4. Engine management system malfunction: failure of system sensors.

If any sensor fails, the electronic control unit switches to working according to a backup program, allowing you to get to a garage or car service center, but at the same time the power and economic characteristics of the engine are reduced.

5. Clutch slippage due to wear or misadjustment.

6. Malfunction of the brake system: braking of one or more wheels while driving, incorrect adjustment of the parking brake.

7. Insufficient air pressure in tires.

Engine or gearbox mounts

The main car components, such as the engine or gearbox, are attached to the body using cushions. The main purpose of this device is to fasten and dampen vibrations during operation. Old cars often had cushions made of durable rubber, which rarely failed.

On modern cars, hydraulic mounts are installed. This device contains a special hydraulic fluid, and this type of pillows smoothes out vibrations better.

If the cushion bursts or has a tear, then at the beginning of the movement the car will jerk due to the fact that the main units do not have a strong connection with the body.

Inspection of high voltage wire

Often, the Priora stalls when accelerating due to a malfunction of the ignition system. This is especially true for the condition of the high-voltage wire leading to the spark plug. To inspect it, you will need to remove the tip attached to the spark plug. The structure of a high-voltage wire is as follows: the winding contains the central core of the wire. The tip, which is put on the candle, has a persistent metal penny. The main purpose of this element is to transmit current to the spark plug.

The core of the high-voltage wire should fit as closely as possible to the “penny” of the steel tip placed on the spark plug. Due to aging, contact between this element and the wire may be lost due to oxidation of the metal. As a result, tripling occurs. The oxidation of the contact is checked as follows: with the second probe of the multimeter, you should touch the central core of the high-voltage wire; if the core of the high-voltage wire burns out along its entire length, then it is possible to identify such a section using a special multimeter tip.

The wire is pierced until the affected area is identified every 5-10 mm. If such a section is detected, it is cut off if the length of the high-voltage wire allows it. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced.

Engine temperature sensor

Modern cars are equipped with electronic engine control systems, which include many different sensors. Such sensors include the coolant temperature sensor. Its main purpose is to adjust engine operation depending on temperature.

If the sensor is faulty, the car engine will not operate properly. It will be difficult to start, the revs will drop, and there will be jerking when accelerating or just while driving.

Since the device is electronic, most often there is either a short circuit or a broken contact inside the sensor. In any case, if similar symptoms appear, it is better to replace the sensor.

Replacing spark plugs yourself

Replacing spark plugs on a Lada
Since faulty spark plugs occur most often during acceleration failures, auto mechanics recommend Lada Priora owners learn how to change this element of the ignition system themselves. This should be done after the car has traveled 20 thousand km. However, if the engine starts to trip, the spark plugs should be replaced before this date:

Initially, you will need to clean the engine compartment from dirt and debris,
Next, it is necessary to dismantle the engine elements to gain unhindered access to the spark plugs. Adapters and extensions are used for this. Before performing this work, you will need to wait until the engine has completely cooled down.
The spark plugs are unscrewed one by one, and the high-voltage wires are disconnected. To prevent an accident, you must first remove the battery from the car. Otherwise, electricity may be supplied. When performing this procedure, it is recommended to monitor the force applied. It is better to seek help from specialists if the candle does not budge.
To prevent debris from getting into the resulting holes, you need to cover them,
The candles are screwed in manually at the first stage. Next, they are tightened using a special mechanism that allows you to measure the amount of force applied,
high voltage wires are connected,
engine operation is checked,
The previously dismantled elements are assembled in the reverse order.

To ensure stable engine operation, spark plugs should be replaced regularly.

Injector

The injector is another of the main systems through which the car can twitch while moving. The injection system includes many different devices. It is responsible for the formation and injection of fuel into the cylinders. Unlike a carburetor, an injector is more of an electrical device.

The car may jerk when driving at low speeds or when accelerating for the following reasons:

Injector contamination
Dirty throttle valve
Failed mass air flow sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
ECU

As a rule, all problems that arise with the injector are accompanied by errors in the ECU and a burning chekEngine light on the dashboard.

Air leaks and sensors

As you know, the injection engine is equipped with an electronic engine management system (ECM), which completely controls the operation of the transmission. This system actually consists of several sensors and a controller (ECU). Based on the sensor readings, the ECU adjusts the SOP, increases or decreases the amount of fuel supplied, prepares an air-fuel mixture that will be optimal for a specific engine operating mode, and so on.

If the signal is incorrect, fuel may not be delivered correctly. In this case, a malfunction appears, which the driver is warned about in the form of a delay in gas pressure, that is, a breakdown. Please note that such breakdowns are especially relevant on those cars with an “electronic” accelerator pedal. In other words, there is no direct connection to the throttle body.

We also add that the throttle valve must be cleaned periodically, and on many cars it is necessary to carry out the throttle valve adaptation procedure after cleaning this element. To avoid problems, experienced drivers clean the throttle body at least once a year. This procedure is carried out for preventive purposes.

In garage conditions, when there is no diagnostic equipment, electronic sensors are checked using the reconfiguration method, and a multimeter tester is used for diagnostics.

As for air leakage, this phenomenon can lead to jerks and dips during acceleration. If excess air is sucked in from somewhere, the ECU loses the ability to correctly determine the amount of air entering the engine.

As a result, the mixture of fuel and air will be prepared incorrectly; instead of a powerful “rich” mixture, a lean working mixture will be supplied to the cylinders. Intake leaks and fuel system problems may occur. In any case, depressurization requires immediate detection of the problem area.

Air filter

As we know, a large amount of air is needed to form a fuel-air mixture. The air passes through the car's air filter. A dirty filter is another reason why the car jerks while moving or when starting off.

When the air filter becomes dirty, there is not enough air. The mixture is over-enriched in fuel, which burns incorrectly in the cylinders.

The car begins to behave inappropriately, misfires appear, which in turn are expressed in drops in speed and jerking of the car.

Reason 5 – mass air flow sensor or ECU firmware

A malfunction of the mass air flow sensor on a Priora leads to the control unit receiving incorrect data on the amount of incoming air, as a result of which the air-fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, and the car may begin to twitch. The malfunction is determined using diagnostics at a service center.

The price of the sensor is not at all budgetary for a Priora - about 4,000 rubles. You can change it yourself. To do this, first disconnect the negative battery terminal, then the wire connector and unscrew the pipe clamp. After this, use a wrench to unscrew the two screws securing the air filter housing and carefully remove the sensor.

Inappropriate ECU firmware leads to the same symptoms. The air-fuel mixture is not prepared correctly, and interruptions may occur during engine operation. This can be caused by improper chip tuning or a malfunction of the “brains” themselves. In any case, only competent diagnosis will help here. It usually costs about 500 rubles. After diagnosis, the technician will tell you exactly how to solve the problem.

Also read: We are looking for a reliable friend: what pitfalls of the Opel Corsa D should you know before buying

Why does the car jerk when driving?

Most often, the malfunctions listed above will cause the car to jerk while driving and work intermittently. But it is worth noting that each car is individual. Some cars have their own “childhood diseases” - design flaws that will cause this symptom. Such cars include the same Honda civic 8th generation; there was even a recall company for this fault, but the cause was soon discovered and learned to be eliminated.

People, help. All coils and spark plugs are new. At low speeds the car jerks very badly. If you heat it up a lot, then acceleration is normal, no problem. It's at the bottom. When you want to drive calmly the car jerks. I can’t understand why. The error does not appear. Who came across it?

Causes of failures when pressing the gas or jerks during acceleration

Car owners often notice that the car jerks when accelerating. Such dips mainly appear at low and medium speeds. They are characterized by the following: Few people like this type of car behavior. If the car stalls when accelerating, you have to press the pedal harder, which increases fuel consumption. This is also a matter of safety for the driver and passengers. When overtaking, a quick reaction to the gas is required, but the car “thinks for a long time”, which is why you may not have time to complete the maneuver. With such thoughtfulness of the gas pedal, the ride becomes uncomfortable.

Causes of overclocking failure

You can determine the reason why the car jerks using diagnostics. Possible problems:

On HBO, the problem may arise due to:

How to fix overclocking failures

If the tips above did not help, only diagnostics will solve the reason for this behavior of the gas pedal. Incorrect operation of systems, errors, composition of the fuel mixture - the diagnostician will name a specific malfunction.

Even if the engine is working properly, the car may move jerkily when accelerating. Motors that meet environmental standards Euro-4 and higher have this unpleasant property. The point is the reaction of the electronic throttle to pressing the gas pedal. It is nonlinear for the first 3–4 centimeters of travel. Because of this, failure may occur during overclocking.

Chip tuning to Euro-2 or Euro-0 standards improves the response of the gas pedal and solves the problem. ECU firmware has a number of other advantages:

Contact ADACT partners in your city for chip tuning. We guarantee a 10-day test drive, money back and replacement if you don't like the firmware.

Where to do chip tuning

Reasons why Priora starts and stalls - what to watch

It happens that the engine in the car starts, and then immediately stalls. This means that all the initial processes are started, but it is not possible to “squeeze” them in order to bring the engine to normal operation. As an example, you can hear that the starter is turning, but the Priora does not start.

The starter engages, but the Priora does not start. This is a clear sign that the starter is transmitting force to the crankshaft, and some other part is not performing its functions in the starting cycle. Therefore, when the Priora starts and stalls, several systems are checked, which begin to work before the rest, starting the engine. Priora takes a long time to start for several reasons:

The fuel pump creates insufficient pressure in the fuel system. This happens - the starter starts to turn the crankshaft, the spark comes from the spark plugs, but they simply have nothing to light - the fuel has not yet arrived.
The ignition coil turns are damaged. The coil received a responsible mission - to convert the current from the battery into current for the spark plug so that it would work. Again: fuel is supplied, the crankshaft moves, but there will be no ignition. It’s also worth checking the candles here - with carbon deposits, they can also give such an effect.
The intake tract is clogged or not sealed. That is, the problem is not in the fuel pump, but in the next “stage” of fuel supply to the chamber. It is recommended to blow out the filter.

Causes and solutions

This phenomenon can be caused by a large number of factors. They have varying degrees of danger. Sometimes, a small detonation is quite acceptable. All possible options for the occurrence of this phenomenon will be discussed below.

The most harmless is detonation, which occurs with a sharp increase in speed. If at 1000 rpm

sharply depress the gas pedal, accelerating the work to 4000-5000 rpm

, you can hear a brief detonation. This is quite a common occurrence. There is no need to be afraid of this; in this case, detonation will not lead to dire consequences. The reason is a sharp increase in the fuel supplied to the engine; the amount of air initially remains at the same level, this causes premature oxidation of the fuel, which is accompanied by explosions. The only way to combat this phenomenon is to avoid a sharp increase in speed.

But sometimes detonation can appear during normal operation of the power unit. In such cases, it is necessary to identify and eliminate the malfunction as quickly as possible. Otherwise, it will lead to engine repair. So, detonation may have the following reasons:

Incorrectly set ignition timing. As this indicator increases, the point with maximum pressure during fuel combustion shifts to TDC. Because of this, increased pressure occurs in the cylinder, and accordingly engine detonation occurs. If you experience unexplained knocking noises, be sure to check that the ignition is working correctly;
Error in the operation of the engine control unit. If the fuel consumption sensor fails, the on-board computer may give erroneous commands. As a result, the engine begins not only to twitch, but also to detonate;
Almost all modern cars are equipped with a knock sensor
. If you observe the phenomenon regularly, then check the condition of this small device. If necessary, you need to replace it;
Low octane number
. Each car has its own compression ratio; accordingly, this indicator is calculated based on the fuel that will be used in the engine. The higher the compression ratio, the higher the octane number should be. If you fill the tank with fuel with a lower rating, an uncontrollable reaction will occur in the cylinder. If, in order to save money, you have filled with lower quality gasoline, then it is advisable to drain it and fill with fuel with a suitable octane number. Sometimes, a similar phenomenon can occur when refueling with bad gasoline.

If the engine does not start, ways to determine faults

If the most unpleasant thing happens, you should not make useless attempts and only discharge the battery by rotating the crankshaft. You may still need a charge of electricity if you succeed in repairing the car. At least for the starter to work. First of all, you need to check whether the fuel pump is working, whether there is enough fuel, whether the ignition works. Maybe the problem is in the injectors that have failed, but this happens very rarely.

Their O-rings, vacuum hoses, and gaskets wear out more often. The same goes for the electronic control unit (ECU), for the most part it works properly for a long time. The fuel pump and its operation are controlled by sound

If it is missing, it is important to ensure that the wiring is in good condition. The sufficient voltage supplied to the fuel pump is 12 V. The pressure created during its operation by the fuel supply system should be about 2-3 bar

The pressure created during its operation by the fuel supply system should be about 2-3 bar.

When fuel stops flowing, the pressure drop occurs over time, not immediately. If this happens almost immediately, then you need to check the fuel regulator, unless, of course, it is leaking. You can turn off the fuel pressure regulator for a short time to make sure the system is working.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=HNLvA3UYeZg

To check the ignition, the spark plug is connected to the ground as carefully as possible so that the computer does not burn out. The condition of the spark plugs can cause the car to stall while driving, but this happens quite rarely. The integrity of the wiring and shielding play a big role in the performance of the synchronization sensor and when testing it.

All connections that may affect the operation of the computer should be checked. There is a good chance that there is a disconnect somewhere. In this case, a good signal of operability is the illumination of the Check Engine indicator. If it exists, then there is still hope. However, cars produced by VAZ do not allow you to determine the error code and, accordingly, localize the fault without using a tester.

A large number of errors most likely indicates a completely detached part. Next, you should measure the voltage supplied to the network. Typically, a running engine consumes 14 V, its cranking results in a voltage of 8 V, and an idle one - 12.5 V. You should definitely make sure that the drive belt and camshaft are intact, which will not be very difficult.

Finally, you should completely disconnect everything from the ECU except the crankshaft timing sensor, but if you do not understand the actions being performed, it is better not to risk it. If the VAZ 2110 stalls after the work done above, you need to check how clogged the air filter is. If it has not been replaced or cleaned for a long time, it is better to do it right now.

It wouldn’t hurt to check the fuel pump, as mentioned earlier, compare the actual coolant temperature with the sensor readings (a deviation of 5 °C is allowed), as well as the voltage. In addition, it is worth wiggling the various connectors. This may seem funny and absurd, but it happens that the reason is precisely a poor connection. Finally, you should inspect the camshaft belt.

Almost all drivers can perform the list of actions described. There may be several reasons why the VAZ 2110 stalls while driving, and not all of them are easily identified. Simply moving the wires can help, and in some cases you will need to go to a car service center if simple steps do not help solve the problem and prevent its further manifestations.

Signs of a malfunctioning knock sensor

If the DD fails completely or partially, a malfunction of the knock sensor manifests itself according to one of the symptoms:

Engine shaking. If the sensor and control system in the engine are working properly, this phenomenon should not occur. By ear, the appearance of detonation can be indirectly determined by the metallic sound emanating from a running engine (knock of fingers). And excessive shaking and jerking during engine operation is the first way to determine a malfunction of the knock sensor.
Reduced power or “dullness” of the engine, which is manifested by deterioration of acceleration or excessive increase in speed at low speeds. This happens when, with an incorrect DD signal, the ignition angle is spontaneously adjusted.
Difficulty starting the engine, especially “cold”, that is, at low temperatures after a long period of inactivity (for example, in the morning). Although it is quite possible for the car to behave this way even at warm ambient temperatures.
Increased fuel consumption. Since the ignition angle is disturbed, the air-fuel mixture does not meet optimal parameters. Accordingly, a situation arises when the engine consumes more gasoline than it needs.
Fixing knock sensor errors. Usually the reasons for their appearance are the signal from the sensor going beyond the permissible limits, a break in its wiring, or a complete failure of the sensor. The occurrence of errors will be indicated by the Check Engine light on the dashboard.

However, it is worth considering that such symptoms may indicate other engine failures, including other sensors. It is recommended to additionally read the ECU memory for errors that could arise due to incorrect operation of individual sensors.

Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunctions

In order to identify DD faults more accurately, it is advisable to use electronic error scanners for the electronic control unit. Especially if the check indicator light on the dashboard lights up.

Often, error p0325 “Open in the knock sensor circuit” indicates problems in the wiring. This could be a broken wire or, more often, oxidized contacts. It is necessary to perform preventative maintenance on the connectors on the sensor. Sometimes error p0325 occurs because the timing belt slips by 1-2 teeth.

Error P0328 “Knock Sensor High” often indicates a problem with high-voltage wires. In particular, if the insulation on them or the piezoelectric element breaks through. Similarly, this error can also occur due to the fact that the timing belt has jumped a couple of teeth. To diagnose, you need to check the marks on it and the condition of the washers.

Errors p0327 or p0326 are usually formed in the ECU memory due to a low signal from the knock sensor. The reason may be poor contact from it, or weak mechanical contact of the sensor with the cylinder block. To eliminate the error, you can try treating both the mentioned contacts and the sensor itself with WD-40

It is also important to check the tightening torque of the sensor, since this parameter is critical to its operation

In general, it can be noted that the symptoms of a malfunction of the knock sensor are very similar to the symptoms characteristic of late ignition because the ECU, for the sake of safety for the engine, tries to automatically do it as late as possible, since this prevents destruction of the engine (if the angle is too early, then in addition detonation occurs, not only does the power drop, but there is also a risk of valve burnout). So, in general, we can conclude that the main symptoms are exactly the same as with incorrect setting of the ignition timing.

Why Lada Priora won't start - reasons

There are two cases when the car does not start at all - if the starter works or if it does not work. Both cases are negative, but the difference is that the signs of trouble to listen for and look for are slightly different. If the Priora starter does not turn, it is recommended to check the following points:

The battery may be discharged. Charge it or, if you're short on time, borrow a working battery from a friend to test your guess.
The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire terminals are oxidized. Check, ring the contacts, and then lubricate them with technical Vaseline. Finally, check the tightness of the terminals and, if necessary, tighten them.
The engine or other components of the machine are jammed. The culprit may be the crankshaft, generator pulley or pump. We'll have to check all this.
The starter is broken, the inside of it is damaged or worn out: the drive gear, the teeth of the flywheel ring. In order to determine the malfunction, you will have to dismantle and then disassemble it - only inspection of the parts can confirm the hypothesis. You don't always need to change the starter - just install a new part inside.
Problems with the starter circuit. You will have to carry out diagnostics first while driving, and then look at it manually. Most often, the culprits are oxidized or loose wires, relays, or ignition switch.
Starter traction relay malfunction. The diagnostic mechanism is no different from the previous version: turn the key to the second position, there should be clicks. The relay clicks and this is normal starter operation.
Poor contact with the “minus”, the wires or contacts of the traction relay are oxidized. A click will be heard, but the starter will not turn. You need to ring the entire system, and then clean it at the connections, tighten the terminals.
Short circuit or break in the holding winding of the traction relay. If this is the case, you will have to replace the starter traction relay. Instead of a click, a cracking sound will be heard when you turn the key, and the relay itself needs to be checked with an ohmmeter or touched, assessing the degree of heating.
The problem is inside: the armature winding, the commutator, the starter brushes are worn out. You need to dismantle the starter and carry out diagnostics from the battery, and then with a multimeter. The freewheel is running slowly. The armature will rotate, but the flywheel will remain in place.

Jerks when shifting gears Priora 16 valves

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up to 30-40 or something? I've tried everything. The further you twist, the worse the second one sticks in and jerks stronger.

But if you turn in first and switch to second and don’t press on the gas, then it jerks...

up to 30-40 or something? I've tried everything. The further you twist, the worse the second one sticks in and jerks stronger.

Serg_x: decrypt. Didn't understand .

wait a minute. that is, up to 30-40 km/h, do you suggest I drive first?

So if you accelerate in the yard or in a traffic jam at first, then lift your foot off the pedal a little, you know what failures there are.

then explain to me why there is no twitching when I’m not spinning it up, but when I’m spinning it up - that’s exactly what they are, and they’re wild.

Source

Jerks when shifting gears Priora 16 valves

Vermilion

There are no reasons.
And there are bites. I was trying to understand why this is happening. 56 throttle for viburnum is almost enough. Good for general development.
I think it's in the air. maybe it’s in the DMRV? I measured the voltage with a tester - 1.037) is basically normal.

I checked the air leaks with a smoke generator. nothing was found. except that there was barely a hint of smoke between the dpdz. but this is so little that it doesn’t count.

Vermilion

I checked the air leaks with a smoke generator. nothing was found. except that there was barely a hint of smoke between the dpdz. but this is so little that it doesn’t count.

AMAROCK

Have you compared the IAC positions at the moment of releasing the gas and its subsequent (IAC) positions in cars with and without jerks? I also have these pecks/jerks (the super smart M73 doesn’t save their mother from this.). For example, when you throw on the gas in traffic jams somewhere from 1200 rpm in first gear, the IAC immediately takes the idle position (I now have 47.48), naturally there will be a dive, in my opinion it should smoothly subside within at least 1 second.

If you want, I'll test your theory on my car. the diagnostician himself. there is equipment.

but in principle, in the firmware there is a parameter for the speed to freeze when releasing the gas... that is, you released the gas at 2360 rpm, your brain delayed it for 0.5 milliseconds and dropped it to xx) that’s why the speed freezes when you release the gas. precisely because of this function. and then you have to look rrx or dpzd is buggy

but in principle, the firmware has a parameter for the speed to freeze when releasing the gas..

Briefly speaking. Once again it's a mess. If possible, I’ll try to roll out the BCN and the correction this weekend. Let's see what happens.

What is your roar theory? Mechanical or electrical?

mechanical - I think it's the gearbox or clutch. in principle one relates to the other

electrical - mass air flow sensor. because the rxx was changed and checked for the resistance of the windings. because the DPDZ was also changed to contactless and nothing has changed. The lambda probe only works at 50 degrees for me. twitching appears even before 50)

or mz? checking his parallels showed nothing. There is no test stand.

Vermilion

The mechanics are very easy to check.

when you let off the gas.. immediately turn off the ignition (just don’t take out the key..) and see if the car jerks.. if not, then the clutch and suspension are ok. This means there is a problem in engine control. IMHO

Vermilion

The mechanics are very easy to check.

Signs of engine tripping

Regardless of the reasons, engine tripping is associated with the presence of various problems, which can be solved after finding out what caused the stoppage of one of the cylinders of the internal combustion engine.

The main signs of engine tripping include

1	uneven operation at idle, as well as shaking of the engine
2	darkening of one of the spark plugs
3	change in exhaust sound
4	poor acceleration dynamics of Priors at any speed
5	increased fuel consumption
6	floating speed, displayed on the tachometer by jerking the arrow
7	jerking when accelerating or driving

Why "fingers"?

The combustion process of the combustible mixture in a fully operational engine proceeds sequentially. A flame flares up near the spark plug, and gradually it fills the entire cylinder. But there is another combustion option - detonation. The explosion of the fuel mixture in the combustion chamber occurs abruptly. This increases pressure and temperature. This very explosion is called detonation. That's why the driver hears a knock - it comes from the blast wave. Proper combustion implies a fire propagation speed of up to 30 m/s. The gas pressure increases gradually. With this type of combustion, the flame fills the cylinder gradually. The gases press gently on the piston. There is no knocking of gas against the walls of the combustion chambers, since there is no explosion. If the burning rate is higher, then these are the prerequisites for detonation. By the way, this phenomenon is very harmful to the engine.