Replacing the gear selector rod oil seal on a VAZ 2114

We will show you how to replace the gearbox gearbox seal of a shaft with grenades on VAZ 2115 VAZ 2114 VAZ 2113 with your own hands. During this repair, you will find the instructions on how to remove the shaft with grenades in the material “replacing the internal grenade of a VAZ 2115 2114 2113” useful. When the shaft is removed, use a screwdriver to pry up the oil seal and pull it out of its seat. Oil seals:

Different for the right and left sides. Black right, brown left. The arrows indicate the direction of shaft rotation:

Before installation, degrease the seals with a solvent, then coat them with sealant. Using the old oil seal, carefully hammer the new one into the hole.

Video of replacing the gearbox oil seal, shaft with grenades in a VAZ 2115 2114 2113

Backup video on how to replace the gearbox seal in a VAZ 2115 2114 2113:

You can replace the internal grenade seal of a VAZ yourself at home. To do this, you don’t need to be a specialist, you just need to have a head and hands.

Replacing gearbox seals for VAZ 2109, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2110

Hello, reader of the blog RtiIvaz.ru. Today we will study how to replace gearbox seals on a VAZ 2109, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2110. Replacing gearbox seals on a VAZ 2109, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2110 and on other Lada models is done when oil leaks are detected. Typically, drips occur in the places where they are installed and a sign is a decrease in the oil level in the gearbox.

Sometimes oil leaks appear at the junction of the gearbox and engine. In this case, you need to touch the leak with your finger and by the smell you can determine where the oil is coming from. From the engine or gearbox. Transmission oil has its own specific smell, which differs from engine oil.

Before replacing the gearbox seals, you need to drain the oil from the gearbox. To do this, we need a container for the drained oil and two keys for 17 and 13. First of all, we need to check the gearbox breather, which is designed to ventilate the gearbox. And in the absence of one, excess pressure develops in the crankcase and this can cause oil to be squeezed out through the cuffs.

Transmission seals for VAZ 2109, 2110, 2112, 2114 cars are usually sold in a set of 4 pieces:

Primary shaft oil seal.
Drive seals, there are two of them, left and right, we will look at the differences later.
Gear selector rod seal.

Tool for work

To complete all the work on replacing the VAZ 2109 CV joint, you need to have some tools at your disposal. This is something worth talking about. Firstly, it is desirable to have metal supports that will need to be installed under the side of the car on which the repair is being carried out. Secondly, it is necessary to have stops that will prevent the car from rolling away. Thirdly, you need a reliable jack. Fourth, you will need some special tools.

The most important thing is a good 30mm wrench. Preferably a socket wrench with a strong handle. With its help, the hub nut is unscrewed, which is tightened with a large torque. You also cannot do without a steering rod puller. In some cases, a ball puller may be required. But it is needed when the balls have become unusable. Of course, a vice, a hammer, chisels and a set of keys. However, you can begin to prepare for repairs.

REPLACING THE INPUT SHAFT SEAL

To replace the gearbox seals, especially the input shaft, the gearbox must be removed from the engine. Having removed the gearbox, carefully inspect the installation locations of the cuffs. And first of all, you need to dismantle the release bearing and remove its guide. Under it you will find the input shaft oil seal.

To remove the seals we need a flat-head screwdriver. By prying it from the inside, you can remove the cuff from its seat. The input shaft oil seal has dimensions 25x45x9. Catalog number 2110-2301043Р. It is better to install it with sealant. The outer race of the oil seal must first be degreased, and then a thin layer of sealant must be applied.

When installing, you must ensure that the inner race of the oil seal does not turn outward and the cuff spring does not jump out of its place. We install it in its place and carefully, using a pipe, lightly tapping, hammer the cuff into place. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plane of the input shaft oil seal lies exactly in relation to its seat.

Then we install the release bearing guide in place. It is secured with three bolts, which should be tightened evenly so that it fits into place without distortion.

Next, we immediately install the release bearing. When installing it, you must immediately put on the wire springs, which are placed on the legs of the release bearing and fix it in place.

Now it's time for the drive seals. There are two of these seals, the left one is red and the right one is black. They also differ in the direction of rotation. This direction is shown by arrows on the seal housing. These arrows are located on the inside of the oil seals, on the right oil seal the arrow points to the left, and on the left oil seal the arrow points to the right. This can also be determined by the oil removal notches applied to the inside of the cuff.

They act to deflect oil away from the cuff. They are applied at opposite angles, in the direction of shaft rotation. Typically, the manufacturer labels it in three ways:

Catalog numbers. The number of the right oil seal ends in an even number 2110-2301034Р, and the number of the left one ends in an odd number 2110-2301035Р.
Arrows, left arrow on the right, right arrow on the left.
Color. The left one is red. The right one is black.

REPLACING DRIVE SEALS

Video from YouTube channel: Engine repair and interesting!

The left and right drive seals are also removed using a screwdriver or a pry bar. There is no shaft on the right “black” oil seal (see video), so here you can insert a mounting bracket inside and remove it with a light blow. We also thoroughly clean the seat with a cloth.

Then, after degreasing the outer diameter, we apply sealant. After this, we install the cuff in place, and make sure that it sits evenly, without distortion, in its seat. Tapping with a flat object, we hammer it in until its outer plane is level with the body.

Then you need to insert a round block of suitable diameter into the hole; this is necessary to fix the satellites so that they do not move out of their places. You can also use a branch from a tree of a suitable diameter, sawing off a straight piece of the appropriate length, or a shaft from an old CV joint.

Next, place the gearbox vertically on the clutch housing.

We insert a flat mounting between the gearbox housing and the CV joint, or you can use a nail puller and, by hitting it, remove the CV joint from the gearbox. Next, using a powerful screwdriver or a flat mount, remove the “red” oil seal of the drive from the housing.

The new drive oil seal must also be checked for direction of rotation. The arrow on the inside should point to the right. Carefully install the new drive oil seal in its place, making sure that its plane is flush with the edge of the seat.

REPLACING THE GEAR SELECTION ROD SEAL

It's time to replace the gear selector rod oil seal, which is located under the boot. Catalog number 2108-1703042-01Р. Here you first need to remove the cross from the shaft. To do this, you need to move the rubber boot “glass” towards the gearbox housing, opening access to the crosspiece mounting bolt.

The bolt does not need to be completely unscrewed. Simply loosen it and the cross will be removed from the shaft. We remove the rubber boot and we will have access to the selector rod oil seal. We remove it, just like the others, by prying it off with a screwdriver.

The new oil seal, like the previous ones, covered with sealant, is driven into place using a pipe. Here you can use a spark plug wrench; it fits the diameter. We put the rubber boot in place, and then the cross, and that’s it!

The work on replacing the gearbox seals on a VAZ 2109 has been completed. With this, I finish the article and wish you, dear reader, success in operating the car!

Video YouTube channel Albert Auhadullin

How it works?

The oil seal consists of a rigid (outer) surface that is mounted in a hole. Often the kit includes a metal ring that is hermetically connected to the rubber seal. It fits tightly into the landing niche.

The inner part is softer, it seems to envelop the rotating shaft. The oil seal leaks from the inside of the circle. Manufacturers are constantly looking for compromise:

hard material is more durable, but does not fit tightly around a rotating object;
soft, elastic rubber provides excellent sealing, but wears out quickly.

To enhance the girth, a ring spring is often installed on the inner side. If it comes off, the grenade seal will leak.

Replacing the gearbox seal of a VAZ 2114

The gearbox makes it possible to change the acceleration rate of the car, increase the speed at different speeds, rotate the wheels at different speeds, etc. During operation, the gearbox may fail, which will require repair of the gearbox on the VAZ 2114.

Checkpoint disassembled

The best way to prevent breakdowns is to take preventive measures. Unfortunately, even the most careful care is not able to protect the box from the occurrence of certain malfunctions.

Expert advice

When replacing valve stem seals on a VAZ-2114 (8 valves), experts recommend paying attention to important nuances:

Before installation, new seals should be fitted with guides on the bushings that are included with the valve stem seals;
after installing new oil seals, be sure to remove the guide bushings;
as soon as the oil seal is installed in its place, you need to put on the spring;
the replacement procedure should begin with the second valve of the cylinder, then move on to the fourth, etc.;
after replacing the oil seals, the crankshaft must be rotated 180 degrees;
after installing the camshaft, the nuts are made from the middle to the edge;
All actions when replacing oil seals must be carried out clearly and accurately.

Types of checkpoints

Manual transmission
Today, all cars are equipped with one of three types of gearboxes.

Mechanical. Speed shifting is done manually using a special lever.
Automatic. No external influence is required to change gears. Switching is carried out depending on the degree of pressure on the brake and gas pedals. In this case, reverse gear is engaged manually.
CVTs. This is a mixed type of gearbox, where the bulk of the work is performed automatically, but if necessary, the gearbox is switched to manual mode.

Box nuances

The VAZ 2114 uses a five-speed manual gearbox. It is quite simple in design, which allows you to independently carry out preventive and repair work.

Device diagram

Experts recommend identifying a malfunction at the initial stage of its occurrence, since delaying means wasting even more time, effort and money.

Typical breakdowns

General view
Based on some signs, it can be determined that certain gearbox components on a VAZ 2114 car need to be repaired.

When a certain gear is engaged, it does not lock properly and crashes. This indicates that the fastenings of the gear teeth and clutch are worn out. When reverse gear is difficult to engage on a VAZ 2114, you will have to take certain measures. Repair consists of replacing the damaged element. If the gear engages spontaneously, the reason may also lie in wear, delamination and cracking on the rubber element of the rear support. Just replace it.
To engage the gear you have to apply more force than usual. If the reverse gear on a VAZ 2114 car does not engage, the problem is most likely hidden in loose or worn teeth attaching to the hinge. This may also occur due to deformation of the torque rod or the appearance of cracks in the plastic part of the gearbox drive.
There is noise in neutral gear. The oil level may be too low or its original viscosity may have been lost. Plus, a similar symptom is characteristic of wear on the upper bearing of the input shaft. Check this element, inspect the oil level and quality.
It is not uncommon for reverse gear to engage with a crunch on a VAZ 2114. The problem here is the wear of the synchronizer. If the problem is not corrected at the first sign of its occurrence, this may result in the need to replace the entire gear assembly and synchronizer.
Noise is generated while the car is moving in certain gears. A similar malfunction occurs due to a damaged lower or upper bearing. Along with the noise, the lever may jam. The only option is to carry out a full diagnosis of the gearbox.
A knocking noise occurs in a certain gear with or without load. The problem lies in the drive gear, which will have to be replaced.
When the transmission is engaged, a cracking sound is heard. This indicates wear of the synchronizer blocking ring or the need to replace the satellite axle. The box will have to be sorted out to fix the damage.
Oil leaks from the box. The reasons can be very diverse, so you will have to carefully diagnose the checkpoint.

Disassembly

Having removed the gearbox, you can proceed directly to the main thing - disassembly. This will allow you to change damaged elements as you work, identify existing faults and solve problems on your own.

Clean and thoroughly wash all external surfaces of the gearbox.
Place the box in a vertical position and remove the back cover.
Remove the clutch cable bracket, then use a rubber hammer to knock the rear cover off the gearbox.
Remove the old gasket. She will be replaced.
Engage any of the two gears - 3 or 4.
Unscrew the bolt that holds 5th gear, then turn it on.
Simultaneously turning on the indicated speeds will allow you to fix the shaft and prevent it from turning.
Unscrew the nut on the secondary shaft, and then on the primary one.
Remove the 5th speed synchronizer along with the fork.
Remove the fork from the coupling. Remove the synchronizer as carefully as possible. If you allow the clutch to move away from the hub, the spring-loaded balls that secure the synchronizer will simply fall apart.
Remove the 5th speed synchronizer locking ring.
Remove the 5th speed driven gear from the output shaft.
Remove the thrust ring located on the needle bearing.
Remove the needle bearing itself from the 5th speed gear.
Remove the drive gear from the drive shaft and remove the bearing plate.
Now the needle bearing bushings should be removed from the secondary shaft, and the thrust washer should also be removed.

Jewelry work

Take out the ring that secures the input shaft bearing, and then a similar ring for the secondary shaft.
Unscrew the locking plug and remove the ball and locking spring. Next you can get a couple more clamps.
Remove the rear engine mount.
Unscrew the reverse gear lock plug, tilt the box and thus remove the lock ball and spring.
Remove the clutch housing and gearbox housing mounting bolts.
Acting as carefully as possible, separate the two units. To do this, there are grooves in the crankcases into which the ends of a screwdriver are inserted. By shaking, you can disconnect the elements without any problems.
Remove the gearbox housing.
Unscrew the bolt securing the 1st and 2nd speed shift fork.
Remove the fork and stem.
Unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd and 4th speed forks.
Separate the rod head from engagement with the lever, remove it along with the fork from your gearbox.

When disassembling the box into parts, be sure to pay attention to the condition of the elements. If you detect faults in time and replace gearbox components, you can get by with inexpensive but very effective DIY repairs. Disassembled gearbox

Disassembled gearbox

What to pay attention to

So, following the instructions, we disassemble the gearbox of your VAZ 2109

Along the way, we pay attention to the following points:

Bearings. When they wear out, a noise from the box occurs. Plus, worn bearings negatively affect the condition of other gearbox elements;
Synchronizers and sealing washers. If their condition leaves much to be desired, then the gears shifted poorly precisely because of them. Replace them;
Clutch system, cotters, coupling hub clamps. All this must be replaced separately if there are signs of wear or defects;
Blocking rings, synchronizers. If there are chips or nicks, don’t even think about alternative solutions, replace them immediately;
Bearing tracks. Over time they wear out. If signs of wear are found, perform a complete replacement. In this state, they were only a short time away from breaking;
Gap between gears and locking rings. Normally it is no less than 0.6 mm. In case of deviations, there is only one solution - replacing the rings;
Retaining rings. If elasticity is lost, these elements must be changed, since they will no longer be able to perform their functions.

When assembling the gearbox, do not forget to lubricate the new gaskets with a layer of lithol. And when pressing the oil seals, do it with the working edge inward. The metal clip should be located on the outside.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=cgCFhYP17

During the process of reassembling the gearbox, all rubbing components should be treated with oil, and do not forget about the sealant for connecting the clutch housings and gearbox. Doing everything yourself is quite possible.

Repair and replacement

It is quite difficult for novice motorists to even simply determine why their gearbox is not working. What can we say about replacing the gearbox seal on a VAZ 2114, which requires a certain skill and knowledge in the field of car repair.

Unfortunately, if you ignore the initial signs of a gearbox malfunction, this may result in a full-fledged need to replace the entire unit. Many are even afraid to ask the current cost of a new gearbox for the “fourteenth” model. But we will say. Today such a unit will cost you at least 15 thousand rubles. Moreover, this price does not include installation services. Changing an entire gearbox yourself is not an easy task.

Another big disadvantage of replacing it yourself is the lack of a warranty. The factory will only provide it to you if the replacement is performed by a certified service station. So we strongly recommend that you contact an official dealer if it comes down to replacing the box.

Let's be frank. Situations in which a car is rendered unsuitable for transmission repair are very rare. Most often, something like replacing the gear selector rod seal on a VAZ 2114, gears, levers and other components is required.

It is difficult to carry out diagnostics on your own in a garage environment. To correctly identify a breakdown, you will need at least a lift and a driver’s extensive experience in car repair. But it is best to carry out diagnostics at a car service center with the appropriate equipment. Whether you entrust them with the repairs or handle this stage yourself is up to you.

The cost of repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2114 is influenced by several factors:

Location;
Skill level of the craftsmen;
Clauses of the concluded contract for the replacement or repair of the gearbox;
Level of car service (regular garage-type service station or full-fledged car service with a large staff and new equipment).

Making a knot yourself

If you wish, you can make a CC yourself, and it will be perfect for any car, including the VAZ 2114. To work, we will need the following:

a small tube with a diameter of exactly 15 mm;
RPP from the VAZ 2114 model;
ball nut;
steering cardan;
VAZ 2114 axle and bushings (repair kit for backstage).

The work takes place in several stages. First, you need to cut off the ball from the RPP and adjust the lower edge so that you can then install a pipe here. Scalding is carried out. A nut is attached to the pipe from the bottom edge and welded. Then comes the installation of the ball. The cardan is mounted to the gearbox lever.

Having carried out such an operation once under the supervision of an experienced car mechanic, you will understand that in fact there is nothing impossible or complicated here. The entire process of manufacturing the CC takes about two hours and is almost the same as replacing the rocker seal. And every second car owner performs such work almost with his eyes closed.

The CC device is quite simple. Easier gear shifting is achieved by reducing the lever travel, and this depends on how long the lever is. In order for the standard rocker to become short-stroke, you just need to lift the fastener of the “piece of iron”, which extends from the gearbox towards the lever. In this case, you do not have to dismantle the standard rocker, which allows you to significantly save both time and effort.

New or refurbished old?

If replacing the gearbox cannot be avoided, it is worth considering one very attractive option - installing a rebuilt gearbox. To do this, companies purchase old, damaged boxes, restore them to the highest possible quality and offer installation with a guarantee.

Disassembled gearbox

As practice shows, such gearboxes are approximately 30-70% cheaper than purchasing a new gearbox.

There is only one important condition for successful savings on such significant repairs. It must be a reliable, proven company. Such companies value their own reputation, so they do not deal with fakes or low-quality repairs. In order to receive positive customer feedback and attract new customers, they simply must do everything well, conscientiously. That’s why today there are fly-by-night companies and companies where, over the years of work, they have established themselves as a reliable and responsible specialist in repairing and replacing gearboxes. You yourself understand perfectly well who you need to contact if you have problems with your box.

Extending the service life of gearboxes

You will be able to use your car for many years without going to car repair shops if you can follow basic recommendations. They will extend the service life of the gearbox, minimize possible problems, breakdowns and the need for repair work.

Transmission shaft assemblies

There are only two recommendations.

Always try to monitor the oil level in the gearbox. If it drops, be sure to top it up immediately, do not delay the procedure until later. When the oil becomes unusable, change it completely, rather than fill in the missing amount.
Avoid aggressive use, do not jerk the gears sharply, accelerate smoothly, and brake similarly. A simple caring attitude towards the gearbox will allow you to avoid wear and tear and numerous breakdowns.

As you can see, solving problems with checkpoints is not so easy. Therefore, the best option is to prevent their occurrence.

Gearbox device

General view of the gearbox

Before proceeding directly to the process of replacing the oil seal, it is necessary to consider the structure of one of the main elements of the car - the gearbox. So, what parts does the unit consist of:

Transmission device diagram

Gearbox: 1 – clutch release bearing; 2 – guide sleeve; 3 – input shaft; 4 – roller bearing of the secondary shaft; 5 – secondary shaft; 6 – retaining ring; 7 – satellite axis; 8 – speedometer drive drive gear; 9 – transport plug; 10 – wheel drive oil seal; 11 – tapered roller bearing of the differential; 12 – axle gear; 13 – satellite; 14 – differential box; 15 – clutch housing; 16 – driven gear of the main gear; 17 – drain plug; 18 – adjusting ring; 19 – driven gear of the 1st gear of the secondary shaft; 20 – synchronizer for 1st and 2nd gears; 21 – driven gear of the second gear of the secondary shaft; 22 – retaining ring; 23 – persistent half ring; 24 – driven gear of the third gear of the secondary shaft; 25 – synchronizer for 3rd and 4th gears; 26 – driven gear of the fourth gear of the secondary shaft; 27 – needle bearing of the secondary shaft gears; 28 – ball bearing of the secondary shaft; 29 – thrust plate; 30 – driven gear V of the secondary shaft transmission; 31 – 5th gear synchronizer assembly; 32 – nut; 33 – thrust washer; 34 – drive gear V of the input shaft; 35 – rear cover of the gearbox housing; 36 – ball bearing of the input shaft; 37 – gearbox housing; 38 – roller bearing of the input shaft; 39 – breather; 40 – input shaft oil seal

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