Repair manual Niva VAZ 21213, 21214, 2131 LADA 4x4 / Legend (Lada 4x4 Legend)
At the turn of the second and third millennia, it was customary to take stock and identify the most significant events of the outgoing century. One of these events was the rapid development of the automobile. Appearing at the end of the 19th century and remaining an exotic curiosity at the beginning of the current century, today the car has entered our lives as a necessary thing and best friend.
Tens of millions of cars of hundreds of names and models travel around the world. Newspapers and magazines conduct polls to determine the best car of the century. In the eternal debate “which car is better,” we give our votes in favor of the Russian Niva, a car that is unique and advanced at the same time. And now it remains unclear how the creators of Niva managed to combine so many positive qualities at the same time in one product. This includes unprecedented comfort for an SUV, exceptionally high dynamics and maximum speed. And of course - excellent cross-country ability.
For the first time, the creators of an SUV abandoned the classic frame, making it, as they now say, integrated, and in fact, building an SUV on a monocoque body. Niva appeared in 1977 and began to conquer the world. For two decades, leading manufacturers of off-road vehicles have been struggling with Niva’s victorious advance into world markets. This confrontation ended with the leaders of the SUV industry creating their own models of a similar design. Among them are such now recognized trendsetters as Land Rover and Mitsubishi.
Due to reasons and circumstances, the number of motorists who prefer 4x4 vehicles is growing. Most of them choose one of the Niv models.
You made the right choice! What is our statement based on? Based on the experience of diverse, sometimes extreme, but most importantly, daily operation of a Niva car. We have accumulated unique experience and obtained data on the resources of every single component and assemblies of this machine. Our Nivas were tested not on the latest diagnostic stand or on an artificial testing ground - they were tested by life itself. The crazy life of a modern active city dweller, experiencing the turn of the millennium in the prime of life and full of creative plans and hopes.
This site is not only a repair manual and not only a collection of useful tips, although you will find both in it. We also see our task as showing how much more interesting, varied and richer friendship with the Niva makes our lives - the most successful and harmonious car of the century, an excellent light SUV, amazingly combining cross-country ability and comfort, reliability and maintainability, aesthetic attractiveness and affordable price. Moreover, owning a Niva will make motorsport more accessible and closer to you, and will allow you to test yourself in such a dramatic and uncompromising branch of it as rally raids.
Let us remember that the very first competitions of gasoline crews were essentially close to modern rally raids. In the extreme conditions of such competitions and tests, the advantages and disadvantages of both man and technology are revealed. In the articles collected on the site, we will open the attractive world of travel to the most hidden and therefore especially beautiful corners of the Earth and our Motherland.
We will share with you the wisdom of repairing, caring for and maintaining the Niva with our own hands. On the pages of the website lada-niva.ru we will talk about how to make the already excellent characteristics of the Niva even better. The miracle car, born in 1977 and which managed to conquer the world, has received a new incarnation in recent years in the form of new models. If possible, we will talk about this and the latest news from the birthplace of Niva - the Volzhsky Automobile Plant - on the pages of this site. Good luck on and off the road, friends!
Estimated car maintenance costs for 5 years
Purpose and design of the gearbox
The variable gearbox can simultaneously perform several functions.
By controlling the gearbox, the driver rationally distributes the torque obtained when rotating the crankshaft. The shaft cannot be rigidly connected to the wheel drives, since it is necessary to ensure the ability not only to move, but also to stop the car, move it away, and also move in reverse. The gearbox allows you to separate the engine from the transmission for a long time. This has to be done when the car is parked for a long time or when it is coasting.
The gearbox ensures the conversion of torque, which is transmitted from the engine to the drive wheels. As a result of its operation, the wheels can rotate in a wider range of frequencies than the engine rotates.
Do-it-yourself body repair
Reg.: 01/06/2011 Messages: 244 From: Kotelnich Age: 32 Car: VAZ 21213,1997
Reg.: 05/30/2011 Threads / Messages: 1 / 145 From: Moscow, North-West Administrative District Age: 58 Car: 2131, 2003
After opening the thresholds, the rust was removed as far as possible down to the metal; of course, this was not possible in corners and hard-to-reach places. Then I treated it several times with Horse rust converter. After each treatment, I sanded everything off, degreased it and coated it again with converter. I did the same with the amplifier, because... it was decided to leave him. After all that was done, I opened it with acid primer, then 2k acrylic primer and dusted it on top with paint from a spray can that was available. After everything was ready, I cleaned the areas where welding would take place down to the metal. I coated the joints of the parts with plasticine; I consider this the most effective way to protect against corrosion. This is what happened
Added after 11 minutes 11 seconds:
Regarding the amplifier, I bought two of them in “Rus”, produced in Gomel, it seems, which of course is a real crapshoot. The metal is thin, the stamping is bad. The price is somewhere around 90 rubles per piece.
Therefore, the front half was left with the original amplifier, the rear part was more rusty, and I decided to change it and put in a new one. After welding, I cleaned the points with a grinder and a grinding wheel.
Reg.: 07/20/2010 Messages: 799 From: Perm *59 Auto: NIVA 4*4_M, 213100, 10
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Thresholds: repair, replacement, installation of power ones.
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Thresholds: repair, replacement, installation of power ones.
Post by fraer » Aug 25, 2010, 10:05 pm
Re: Pzhavinyrogs and who repaired them how?
Post by Bladerunner » Aug 25, 2010 10:26 pm
Connecting front-wheel drive in a Niva is not so much a technical question as it is a philosophical one. (c) Vovchik
Re: Pzhavinyrogs and who repaired them how?
Post by _JJ » Aug 25, 2010, 11:02 pm
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Magellan » Aug 25, 2010, 11:04 pm
fraer The title of the topic has been edited, please write more clearly next time!
Regarding the thresholds. take a photo and post it on the forum.
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by fraer » 26 Aug 2010, 07:09
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by _JJ » 26 Aug 2010, 09:38
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Vigilant Falcon » Aug 26, 2010, 10:19 pm
Instructions in pictures here
:
and here is a little, the current is rotten:
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by hpionodav » Aug 30, 2010 10:53 pm
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Miron_u » 01 Sep 2010, 23:02
1. At the metal depot. 2.
3.No, semi-automatic.
This post has been edited by Magellan. We read about "Citation"".
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Wolf » 02 Feb 2011, 23:09
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by arty » 02 Feb 2011, 23:45
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Wolf » 06 Feb 2011, 21:15
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Igor » 09 Feb 2011, 23:18
Wolf, why a channel? It has a lot of weight, the profile is lighter and it’s strong enough
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Wolf » 10 Feb 2011, 00:30
Re: Threshold repair.
Post by Igor » 22 Feb 2011, 15:01
Diagnostics and repair of the speed box
To carry out a full diagnosis, the speed box must be removed. As a rule, there is a need for this if vibrations, extraneous noise, or oil leakage increase during movement.
How to remove the box? Before you begin removing the gearbox, you must remove the transfer case. Without an inspection hole, it will be difficult to carry out repair work, for example, unscrewing the cardan shafts from the transfer case. The stabilizer can also be removed. The housing of the air filter element must be removed.
In order to remove the gearbox, you should disconnect the lever rod, the clutch housing cover fastenings, the driveshaft, bolts, nuts, and remove the bracket. The suspension of the power unit is adjacent to the body. To remove it you need to unscrew the fastening nuts.
To extend the service life of the VAZ 21213 gearbox, it is advisable to periodically check the level of transmission fluid and change it in a timely manner.
Mineral oil can be added to the machine. However, semi-synthetic and synthetic options have better performance. The advantage of the latest types of oils is that even in winter the gears will be easily engaged.
Timely maintenance of the Niva gearbox allows you to avoid a complete overhaul of the gearbox. Assembling all the dismantled parts is a painstaking task, so it should be trusted to professionals. Replacing the gearbox input shaft bearing is a common procedure that is ordered at a service center.
The gearbox linkage is an element of a multi-lever assembly, which is designed to connect the gearbox lever and the rod that fits the power unit. In Niva Chevrolet cars, the rocker is located under the bottom of the vehicle, next to the cardan. This component is susceptible to contamination and the formation of moisture on it, which over time can deteriorate the quality of lubrication of rubbing parts. As a result, parts begin to wear out, which can subsequently lead to various problems.
What kind of rocker should I put on a Niva Chevrolet? This question came to the mind of every Niva car owner who had to deal with a malfunction of this element. In fact, there is nothing difficult in choosing a component.
In practice, many car owners of the above car models install mechanisms from classic Fiat cars on their vehicles. According to reviews on the Internet, these devices are completely suitable for installation in a Chevrolet Niva. However, there is also a negative side. In practice, Niva cars equipped with a mechanism from Fiat cars require more careful adjustment of the element. In addition, despite Italian quality, these components of the transmission system are more susceptible to wear and tear.
Therefore, when choosing a mechanism, you should not “be fooled” by the stories of handicraft “garage” craftsmen and come up with a new headache for yourself. For installation in a Chevrolet Niva, it is better to purchase a standard rocker, which is equipped with basic models of Niva cars.
New rocker for Niva Chevrolet
Chevrolet Niva gearbox
The design of the gearbox on a Chevrolet Niva is not original and was developed much earlier than the launch of the conveyor. The type of gearbox is a mechanical five-speed with a three-shaft structure. It is possible to highlight the key components of the box, since the complete diagram of its structure is quite voluminous.
Primary shaft (1). It transmits force from the rotating motor. Can be decoupled from the engine for a short time using the clutch release.
Box housing (3). All mechanisms are lubricated with transmission lubricant, so they are located in a sealed crankcase where this lubricant is poured.
Primary shaft oil seal (4) and secondary shaft oil seal (5). It prevents lubricant from leaking where the shaft enters the crankcase.
Gear synchronizers (7, 8, 9). They serve to more clearly engage gears and fix the selected gearing.
The intermediate shaft (6) is designed so that it is in constant engagement with the input shaft. The intermediate shaft houses the gears.
Secondary shaft (2). Is a driven shaft. It also has gears that can move along the axis of the shaft.
The gear selector is the assembly that drives the transmission gear along the output shaft.
The shaft bearings (purple in cross-section) ensure their rotation.
Transmission malfunctions
The gearbox, in its basic design, is a gearbox with a variable gear ratio. Since this is a complex device, there may be several reasons for malfunctions. A gearbox failure can be diagnosed by the following signs:
- It is impossible to engage the gear;
- It is impossible to turn off the transmission;
- The engaged gear is not fixed (the speed is knocked out);
- The gear is engaged with difficulty and a characteristic crunch;
- During movement, extraneous noises are heard and vibration is felt.
All possible malfunctions in the trivial classification are divided into malfunctions of the box itself and malfunction of the gear selection mechanism. The first type includes:
- failure of synchronizers;
- gear wear;
- failure of shaft bearings;
- loosening of the nut holding the gear;
- seals leaking.
Do-it-yourself replacement of VAZ 2131 thresholds
Sooner or later (better late), corrosion begins to take over on cars, and you have to move from cosmetic methods (primer + paint) to surgical ones (cutting and welding).
I hope this small instruction will help you figure out what needs to be changed and in what order, what you need to buy, and, in general, what everything looks like inside. So. There is a need to replace the thresholds on your car.
Before starting work, it is necessary to conduct an inspection and find out the extent of the damage. To do this, we lift the car, put it on supports (ATTENTION! OBSERVE SAFETY) and, armed with a thin screwdriver, begin to explore.
Let me take a short detour into the design of the car in order to decide where to “explore” with this very screwdriver.
The threshold itself consists of three elements. Outer part (part of the side frame, but supplied as a separate repair part), inner part (consists of connector and bottom element) and amplifier. In cross section it looks something like this:
The amplifier, in turn, consists of three parts. If everything is simple with the middle part, it is supplied as a separate element, then the front and rear parts of the amplifier are elements of the inner part of the sidewall and the front panel, which is connected to the engine shield.
In addition, welded to the inside of the connector are the front bracket (jack), the front connector (what the mudguard hangs on), the rear connector (the reaction rod is screwed to it) and the rear jack.
All these elements need to be checked. Use a screwdriver to strike with medium force. Those elements that can be pierced must definitely be replaced. In addition, it is necessary to examine the condition of the side members in those places where connectors are attached to them, and the bottom in the same areas.
Let's get to work.
We remove the doors and seats, remove the mats, install a support under the middle part of the car to avoid sagging, and cut off the outer part of the threshold:
We study the state of the amplifier and internal connector:
Since part of the threshold extends under the front wing, it is necessary to cut off the lower part of the wing or (if the condition of the wing is unsatisfactory) remove it completely. This is best done using a spot welding drill:
In this case, the wing had mechanical damage and was subsequently replaced entirely.
We remove the amplifier and everything that is in unsatisfactory condition:
Remove the connector and, if necessary, the jacks:
We clean the welding areas, remove formation rust and install a new connector:
After welding, I recommend treating the joint with seam sealant and covering it with primer. In my work I use Standox Rotbraun for additional anti-corrosion protection:
Installing the middle part of the amplifier:
Initially, a “spare” amplifier was purchased, from which the missing parts were restored. All seams were turned and covered with primer:
We adjust and weld the outer part of the threshold:
It should be noted that you CANNOT COOK WITH A CONTINUOUS SEAM. Strong heating will “remove” the metal, and before painting you will have to use a large amount of putty, which will not be a quality repair.
Welding is carried out according to the six-point principle. That is, we make a point, move away to a distance of approximately six points and make the next one. The area around the first one has time to cool down and we return to the first one, etc.:
We grind the seams and install the wing (or part of it):
We treat the seams with glass putty and send them for painting:
Typical manifestations of Niva gearbox breakdowns
Repair of the Niva (5-speed) gearbox in each specific case depends on the location, number, and complexity of breakdowns.
It should be noted that symptoms in different cases may be similar. Thus, it is impossible to accurately determine the root of the problem based on sound effects alone. Accordingly, if there are any transmission malfunctions, you cannot do without a comprehensive diagnosis of the transmission unit in a specialized workshop.
Also interesting: How does the transfer case work on a Chevrolet Niva?
Transmission repairs and transfer case repairs Niva 21213 in Moscow are offered by our workshop on favorable terms. If you need to quickly put your car on all 4 wheels, welcome!
Replacing thresholds for Lada 2131 (VAZ 2131)
EDITORIAL VAZ 2131 WITH A MILEAGE OF 108,000 KM WAS THOROUGHLY STUDYED IN TOGLIATTI
In 1995, when a long Niva in the then fashionable “currency” color appeared in the editorial parking lot, such cars were still a rarity. Since then, the Steam Locomotive - this is the nickname given to the VAZ 2131 - has covered a little more than 108 thousand km, exceeding the resource declared by the plant - 90 thousand.
The life history of the Steam Locomotive - almost all the malfunctions that occurred over 6 years and 108 thousand - are in the table. The Niva ended its long journey in its homeland, Tolyatti, where VAZ specialists dismantled and repaired the car.
Carburetor repair and replacement of exhaust system parts are mandatory operations. The breaker cover, switch and high-voltage wires, as ordered, were sent to the official resource. The carburetor couldn't reach it. When jamming of the dampers and other failures became chronic, the device had to be replaced.
A complete disassembly and examination of the engine at the 109th thousand showed that it was not completely healthy. Apparently, the Niva drank low-quality oil a couple of times: the piston rings became coked and their mobility decreased. A small wear appeared at the ends of the valves: apparently, they stopped rotating.
Experts gave the cylinder-piston group a “C”. After thorough washing and replacement of the oil seals that have lost their elasticity, the engine would run another 30 thousand. According to factory statistics, 1.7-liter engines on the Niva with qualified maintenance run 100-150 thousand km. Our unit is a strong middle peasant.
An autopsy revealed a driven disk worn to the point of rivets and a release bearing deprived of lubrication. Both, of course, must be replaced. The “basket” leaves another 30 thousand - an excellent result. In general, the clutch of a short car works well on the five-door model 2131 - of course, when making such a conclusion, we will take into account gentle operation.
The plant compiled an impressive list of failed parts: the primary and secondary shafts (wear of the splines), gears and clutches of the third, fourth and fifth gear synchronizers (the ends of the teeth were knocked off), the spring ring of the primary shaft bearing (collapsed), the third, fourth and fourth shift forks fifth gear (maximum wear). After replacing these parts, the box lasts about 30 thousand, and then... it’s easier to buy a new box.
The transfer case worked better, although it was not without intervention - at the 48th thousand, the input shaft bearing separator fell apart. The intermediate shaft CV joint bolts were loosened twice. The malfunction does not seem to be serious, but it is unpleasant. The hinge is disconnected and the car can only be moved by a tow.
Cardan transmissions, wheel drives and axles. The reinforced “Nivov” crosspieces of the cardan shafts worked the entire mileage without any problems and after 108 thousand they do not cause any complaints. The intermediate support for the driveshaft had to be changed at the 75th thousand.
The axle bearings, replaced at the same time (at 61 and 67 thousand), are still in good condition. It is difficult to predict their future due to the unstable quality of parts.
Suspension. The early replacement of ball joints on Zhiguli and Niva cars, alas, has not surprised anyone for a long time. So on the Steam Locomotive, the dry “balls”, without a trace of lubrication, had to be thrown away when the mileage barely reached 20 thousand km. After 16 thousand, the rear shock absorbers went to scrap. Fortunately, the troubles ended there. The factory upper ball joints and front shock absorbers had reached their full service life - 84 and 90 thousand, respectively. “But” the next, second set of upper ball joints wore out in less than 20 thousand.
The steering did not require any expenditure until almost 100 thousand, when it was finally necessary to change the side tie rods (the middle link ends are still in good condition and will clearly last up to 150 thousand) and the pendulum arm. Soon, irreparable play appeared in the steering mechanism. An autopsy revealed the reason - water took the place of the oil that leaked through the bipod shaft seal. Corrosion is merciless - the mechanism will have to be changed.
Electrical equipment. A generator that fails at the 70th thousand is the only serious problem in the entire life of the car. There were also few little things. The fight against headlight cleaners stopped a long time ago: spending money and time on replacing them is pointless. A failed coolant temperature sensor and a rusted sound signal are common faults. Surprisingly: in six years and 108 thousand, only one reversing light switch “died”. In general, the electrical equipment of the Niva did not cause any special problems.
