Malfunctions of the standard alarm system of the Lada Kalina, Priora or Grant


Having tried to open the car using the key fob, one fine day you may find that the lock continues to operate and the car does not respond to key presses. In such a situation, it will be possible to unlock one door or even the central locking system by simply unlocking the driver's door lock. Only the security mode is not deactivated. The central locking, in turn, may not respond to commands for two reasons - the battery in the key fob is dead or synchronization is lost. How to solve these problems is discussed further.

Features of standard central locking

AvtoVAZ even installs a central locking system with a remote control from the factory even on the most budget versions of Kalina. However, such a system is clearly not enough to effectively protect a car from theft. The Lada Kalina central locking system is also controlled from the interior. On the driver's door next to the power window control unit there is a central locking button. The ignition key simultaneously functions as a remote control. On its plastic part there are three buttons, the purpose of which is as follows:

  1. Unlocking. One press – the actuator should click and the driver’s door will open, two presses – the rest.
  2. Closing. To close all doors at the same time, just press the button once.
  3. Opening the trunk. Not available on all trim levels, as a trunk lock actuator is required. You can also install the electric drive yourself.

Kalina also provides another important function - rear door locking, as it is also called - child protection. To activate it, you need to use the key to turn the red chip to the right near the lock from the outside. After this, opening the rear doors from the passenger compartment is not possible, so that children cannot accidentally fall out while driving.

The central locking system does not have anti-theft functions; there are no shock sensors. All that the central lock can do is signal an unauthorized opening.

How can you disable the immobilizer on Kalina

How to disable the immobilizer on Kalina? Motorists often ask specialists this question. Almost all modern cars have standard immobilizers. These are the so-called automobile anti-theft systems (APS), which block the engine from starting.

Types

Immobilizers are divided into contactless and contact.

Contact ones are controlled by a key, and contactless ones work using a card or a special key fob. There are very frequent cases when the immobilizer does not work on a Lada. Therefore, many Lada Kalina car owners are interested in how to turn it off.

Lada Kalina is considered one of the most popular and best-selling cars in the Russian automobile industry. Compared to the VAZ 2110 and Priora, it is quite economical and maneuverable.

Peculiarities

Owners of Lada Kalina believe that the car has practically no problems, except for the sometimes freezing immobilizer. Not only the car thieves, but also the owner cannot start the car. Let's talk about how to disable the immobilizer on Kalina.

All new Ladas produced with an injection engine are equipped with APS-4 - a typical anti-theft device. The principle of the anti-theft device is as follows. It transmits data about the performance of the system to the unit that controls the car, and blocks the fuel pump and ignition circuit until they are unlocked with a special key.

The electronic anti-theft device on Kalina is very sensitive and changeable. It can be damaged by a request to diagnose the system while the engine is running, or even by a ringing mobile phone. In general, the owner has to solve many problems from frequent software failures and immobilizer malfunctions.

The reason for everything is the Kalin line. In response to numerous complaints and requests from Lada Kalina owners - such as “the immobilizer does not start” - the company has thought through and equipped the cars with an alternative function for starting the engine in the event of an anti-theft failure.

To do this, the driver must enter a secret six-digit code. The owner of a non-travelling immobilizer must press the accelerator pedal a set number of times, then only the system will allow you to enter the code, turn on the emergency mode and allow one trip.

After such ordeals, only one thing comes to mind: deactivate the immobilizer. How to do it yourself?

Some tips for deactivating the immobilizer

Disabling the immobilizer: follow the diagram.

Using the diagram supplied by the manufacturer, we find the immobilizer and try to disconnect it from the power supply. You will need to use:

  • knob,
  • figured bat,
  • positive screwdriver,
  • universal joint and extension.

We dismantle the battery and remove the protection from the instrument panel. The immobilizer looks like a small black box and is located behind the car's heating control panel. It is not easy to get the bolts that secure it.

Before this, you need to de-energize the APS (holding the plastic clip, pull out the plug).

Some owners forget to restore the diagnostic line after removing the anti-theft device. To restore it, you will need a jumper that will restore data exchange between the power unit ECU and the diagnostic block. If this option is not needed, simply connect the wires, restoring the K-line. We return the connector to its place.

After removal, you need to reconfigure the APS. Here it is very important to erase all the data that the Lada Kalina immobilizer saved on the ECU (volatile memory units).

The process looks like this. We connect contacts 18 and 9.1, having previously removed the standard wiring connector from the immobilizer.

Next, the ECU is opened and a chip is inserted - the cleaning utility is on it - instead of the standard wiring chip.

We try to start the engine. If all actions were carried out correctly, the car starts. If the chip cannot be removed, you need to find and install a program like Combiset, which will clear the memory. If this does not help, you will have to resolder the socket for the microcircuit.

The owner of the Lada Kalina was much more fortunate with the new device January 5.1. In this case, the Eeprom program, which overwrites the data, and new firmware for it (obtained from an untrained immobilizer, by reading from the controller) are easily installed. The manipulations carried out allow the ECU itself to generate the necessary password and allow the engine to start.

Steps to unlock the Lada Kalina APS

Although the car's standard anti-theft system works reliably, it is too primitive among modern systems. If you add another sway sensor to the existing Lada system, the alarm will become competitive in the mid-price category.

Problems can only arise when the security system is connected to an automatic engine start. She does not agree to work with the immobilizer.

If the owner decides to install a new alarm system, or the keys are lost, the question arises: how to unlock the immobilizer?

Can a car owner, without going to a service station, resolve this issue on his own? APS of the Lada Kalina depends on the microchip located in the ignition key. Based on a signal coming from the control unit, the immobilizer is unlocked.

This feature only works on an activated system. It's easy to verify this. We close all the doors. The immobilizer icon came on. We wait 20 seconds, and if it goes out smoothly, the system is activated.

Source: https://1LadaKalina.ru/obsluzhivanie/kak-otklyuchit-immobilajzer.html

Basic central locking malfunctions and methods for eliminating them

There are times when, after pressing the door unlock button, you may encounter a lack of response to the command. The lock cannot be removed and the central lock does not respond to button presses on the remote control. Conclusion - Kalina's central locking does not work.

You can gain access to the interior using a key, but in this case the sound alarm is not deactivated, and everyone will know when the car is opened. If the system does not respond to commands from the remote control, there may not be many problems: either the batteries in the remote control are low and need to be replaced, or synchronization is lost. In this case, it is not repair that is required, but restoration of the system's functionality.

Frequent problems with alarms on Lada Kalina

The Lada Kalina manufacturer provides a standard alarm system that operates on a simplified principle and provides the following functions:

  • door locking/unlocking;
  • locking all doors when closing the driver's side;
  • opening/closing the car by pressing a special button in the cabin;
  • turning on the alarm when there is a break-in attempt.

The standard factory system is very reliable, and its functions are often sufficient to protect the machine. But a study of reviews shows that owners of domestic cars often encounter failures in the built-in protection. A common situation is when Kalina does not open with the standard alarm key fob. An equally common problem is when the immobilizer blocks the engine and prevents it from starting due to some built-in faults.

Restoring synchronization

Synchronization may be lost if there is a short-term (from 6 seconds) lack of power to the microcircuit in the key fob. In this case, desynchronization may actually occur, i.e. the connection between the remote control and the control unit of the central locking Lada Kalina is lost. According to the operating manual, if such situations arise, it is necessary to register the key fob again, entering data about it into the memory of the central locking system. You should immediately take into account that the procedure is far from the simplest and most understandable, and you also need a special training key. You can try to restore synchronization as follows:

  1. Turn the ignition switch with the key that requires synchronization.
  2. Wait 6 seconds.
  3. After the immobilizer lamp stops flashing, the ignition can be turned off.

After 10 seconds, the same key is used to start the car again. If the immobilizer warning light does not blink, it means that synchronization has been restored.

At first glance, nothing complicated, but this method does not help in all cases. If there is a training key, but there is no previously registered key, then the ignition is first turned on, then turned off. After the immobilizer warning lamp stops flashing, within six seconds the key is moved to the second position of the ignition switch (starter).

Key programming for Kalina, Priora, Grants, UAZ and Niva

The remote control key for Lada Priora, Kalina, Granta, UAZ Patriot, Niva is programmed on the car without any devices.
To do this, you need to have a so-called training key in your hands - which has a red pip on the head of the key. Used in cars with APS-6 unit. The remote control key looks like this:

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT!!!

We work and consult ONLY in Nizhny Novgorod. If you are from another region, do not write or call us - we will not answer. We do not treat keys or cars from other cities: contact specialists in your region.

Purpose:

The remote control is designed for remote control of locking and unlocking of car doors, turning on and off super-locking doors, turning on and off the alarm system, raising the windows, controlling the locking of the tailgate (trunk lid), and also as a coded electronic key for the APS-6 immobilizer

The remote control is mounted on the blade of the ignition switch key type 1118-3704010 and is designed to operate:

1)via radio channel:

  • with electrical package control unit 1118-6512010
  • with driver's door module 1118-3763080, 2170-3763080-00/10

2) via transponder channel:

  • with immobilizer control unit APS-6 2123-3840010-ХХ;
  • with immobilizer control unit APS-6.1 1118-3840010-ХХ;
  • with electrical package controller-2170-3763040.

Operating instructions:

For the remote control to work as part of a car, it must be activated (trained) using the training (red) code key from the immobilizer. After training, the remote control is also a working code key for the immobilizer and is used to remove the engine start ban. The system can be trained and operated simultaneously with two remote controls .

Training procedure:

Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:

  • the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
  • the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
  • a new system password is written into the training key;
  • all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
  • The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.

The training procedure is applied in the following cases:

  • activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
  • erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
  • changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
  • remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.

Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.

Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place.

Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.

Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.

  1. Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
  2. Turn off the ignition.
    The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction.

    Remove the training key from the ignition switch.

  3. While the warning lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), insert the remote control and turn on the ignition. The immobilizer buzzer should emit three beeps.
    If the buzzer does not sound and the indicator has stopped flashing, this means: - the time interval of 6 seconds has been exceeded and it is necessary to repeat the learning procedure, starting from step 1;

    -immobilizer is faulty

  4. Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
  5. If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
  6. After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.
  7. Turn off the ignition without removing the training key, wait 6 seconds until the buzzer sounds a single sound signal. The indicator should flash twice as fast. If the sound signal does not sound and the flashing indicator stops, you should return to step 1 and repeat the learning procedure. If a repeated failure occurs when performing step 7, this means that the ECM was previously trained with a different key, in which case the controller should be replaced.
  8. After the buzzer gives a single sound signal, no later than 3 seconds, turn on the ignition for 2...3 seconds and then turn it off (after turning on the ignition, the buzzer will sound three times and the indicator will stop flashing). The hazard warning lights should flash and the car horn should beep.
  9. Remove the learning key.
    Wait with the ignition off for at least 10 seconds. Insert the working key and turn on the ignition. Wait 6 seconds, if the indicator does not flash, test start the engine, the engine should start. If the indicator flashes, turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds. Turn on the ignition. The warning light should not flash and the engine should start. If, after turning on the ignition, after 6 seconds the indicator lights up with a constant light, then the learning procedure must be repeated, starting from step 1.

Replacing the remote control battery

The remote control is equipped with a CR2032 lithium battery, the initial supply voltage of which is 3 V.

If the remote control supply voltage is within normal limits, then each time you press any button on the remote control, the indicator lights up with a short flash.

If, when you press any button on the remote control, the indicator lights up with two short flashes or does not light up at all, then you should replace the battery with a new one.

To do this, you need to unscrew the screw from the side of the case opposite the control buttons, separate the halves of the case, remove the board from the case, replace the battery with a new one, observing the polarity; insert the board into the case; snap the housing halves together and tighten the screw.

Resynchronization of remote control codes

In cases where the remote control buttons are pressed outside the range of the radio channel, the “floating” code counter in the remote control goes out of synchronization with the counter in the system control unit. If the number of button presses outside the signal reception area of ​​the system exceeds 1000, the system stops responding to remote control commands. In this case, the remote control training procedure should be repeated.

Updated August 01, 2013

Due to the increasing number of cases of lost training (master) keys for car owners of Kalina, Priora, Grant, Niva-Chevrolet, we are introducing a new type of service: registration of working keys in these cars, without a master key!

Usually in such cases, it is necessary to change a set of blocks: ECU (electronic engine control unit), APS unit, glass control unit, ignition switch complete with door cylinders and new keys, etc.

Now in our company you can register a working key with buttons without a training key, and for an additional fee you can receive a new training (red) key for your car. For this procedure, you need to come by car and leave it while the work is being carried out.

The work includes dismantling the necessary units (ECU, APS, etc.) from the car, programmatically changing data, installing units on the car and registering keys.

We emphasize that a key registered in this way will cost more than registering a remote control yourself if you have a training key, but naturally cheaper than buying and replacing a set of blocks with new ones.

Update January 05, 2014

Attention! It is now possible to make a duplicate chip for autostart using a working key with remote control buttons! A master or training key is not required.

The chip obtained in this way can be used both for installation in the immobilizer bypass unit to implement autostart, and for everyday use, starting the engine of Lada Kalina, Priora, Niva-Chevrolet cars.

Such a duplicate is more expensive than a regular chip, which can be registered using a master key, but this is a real solution in cases where the master (training) key is lost.

To create a duplicate, you need a car, a working key with remote control buttons (and it doesn’t even matter if it is partially faulty, for example, the buttons don’t work, etc., the main thing is that the ignition key starts the engine). The entire copying procedure takes 10-15 minutes. Contact us by phone in contacts.

Source: https://dvernoydoktor.ru/blog/programmirovanie-klyucha-pdu-dlya-vaz-kalina-priora-granta-uaz-patriot-niva

Conversion into a single door unlocking impulse

The controller of the central locking control unit opens the doors in two stages: one press of the button unlocks the driver’s door, two presses – all others. But you can make it so that everything unlocks after one press. This is very easy to do:

  1. Turn on the ignition.
  2. Press the unlock and close buttons at the same time and hold for at least five seconds.
  3. After the beep, the key can be released.

When the buzzer sounds once, the system notifies you of the transition to a new mode. Returning everything to the way it was before is just as easy. To do this, repeat the above procedure and wait for the double buzzer to confirm the transition to the default settings.

Detailed programming instructions

How to train a key? To train the key in LADA Kalina you will need to follow eight steps.

  1. So, programming the key begins with closing the doors and activating the ignition. We carry out this manipulation only using a training key. Having started the engine, we perform a delay for 6 seconds.
  2. Now we turn off the LADA Kalina engine. At this moment, the tidy control indicator is switched to flashing mode. This action continues until the end of the learning process. When the indicator stops blinking for unknown reasons, this indicates the presence of an incorrectly performed manipulation at some stage. If this situation occurs, then repeat the ignition switch with a delay.
  3. The third stage of action is also characterized by the blinking of the indicated indicator. This happens for 6 seconds. At this time, you will need to re-insert the key into the lock and activate the ignition. When all manipulations are performed correctly, three sound signals will start coming from the buzzer.
  4. With the beginning of the 4th stage, you will need to do a little holding. Upon completion of repeated sound signals, insert the learning key and repeat the procedure. If we fail to complete this process, we conclude that an error was made during the manipulations. One might suspect that this chip key has previously been subjected to a similar procedure.
  5. The fifth stage involves turning off the ignition. The operation regarding the second element will need to be repeated about 3 times.
  6. In the next step, the control symbol starts flashing again. Here you will need to remove the trained key, after which we insert the training remote control. Correctly performed manipulations will be confirmed by a three-time buzzer.
  7. At the penultimate stage, we wait for a couple of signals to sound.
  8. We complete the action by turning off the ignition. Next, we wait for a single buzzer signal. Now you know how to train a key.

People's Councils

If you are confident that the key fob is working, but the central locking does not work or does not work correctly, then you can try the following:

  1. Replace the central locking fuse Kalina F22, which protects the controller's power circuit (located in the mounting block).
  2. The power supply circuit to the actuator of one of the doors may be broken. In this case, you need to open it 90° and find a broken contact or connector.
  3. It happens that the reason is that the key fob screw is too tight. You need to weaken it, and the functions will be restored.

In each specific case, atypical malfunctions may occur, so the above list is not exhaustive.

Installation and connection of central locking depending on the modification of Kalina

The central locking is controlled by an electronic unit, from which wires go to the door actuators. A wire also goes from the block to the driver's door microphone, which is located inside the actuator. When connecting, installing or repairing the central locking system after dismantling the left door trim, you need to find the cable from the drive to the 7-pin connector.

Depending on the configuration (“Norma”, “Standard”, “Lux”) under the casing you can see:

  1. Six wires suitable for the connector (drive and two microphones).
  2. Unconnected wires from the drive.
  3. Lack of wires that should be in the connector on pins 4/6.

If there is an alarm, then wires 2/7 must be connected to the central locking unit. If the package does not include connecting all the actuators, then you need to do this yourself by connecting the missing ones to the control unit. To do this, you can use a two-wire cable that runs from the door to the central locking control unit. The electrical circuit of one or another modification of Kalina will help with the work.

Central lock connection diagram

Kalina car ignition key

The first key, which with the remote control performs the following functions:

  • directly working ignition key
  • door and trunk lock key
  • remote control
  • APS-6 immobilizer working key

The second key with a red insert at the end performs the following functions:

  • ignition
  • key for door and trunk locks
  • APS-6 immobilizer training key

The keys have tags (in Figure 1, tags number 2), which indicate the key number. It's better to remove these tags and save them. Using them, it will be possible to produce new keys for the ignition switch of the viburnum by contacting a certified PSSS.

Instructions for learning the second key of the Viburnum fret:

  • collect the second key provided when purchasing a new Lada Kalina
  • close the doors
  • Next, you need to insert the red key into the ignition and turn it on
  • Then we wait for 3 sound signals (squeaks), if there are none, then wait 6 seconds and take out the key
  • then, immediately within 6 seconds you need to turn on the ignition with the first black key
  • after 3 beeps and 2 “pi” signals, remove the key from the ignition
  • then, within 6 seconds, turn on the ignition with the second black key
  • also, having heard 3 and 2 squeaks, remove the ignition key from the lock
  • after which, you need to turn off the ignition, but do not remove the key from the ignition switch of the viburnum
  • waiting for 1 squeak
  • again, within 6 seconds, turn on the ignition for 5 seconds, and be sure to wait for the signal - the emergency signal should blink and a short beep sound
  • turn off the ignition. the red key before the light on the instrument panel goes out.

Correct use of instructions. If the orange icon (car with key) is on or blinking all the time while the second key is learning, then everything is correct. If the icon does not light up or blink, you will have to start all over again.

How to check whether the ignition key has been learned correctly? The correctness of key learning is checked as follows:

  1. insert the key into the ignition
  2. turn the key to position II of the ignition switch.

In this key position, the car's instrument panels turn on, but the car does not start. If within 7 seconds the orange icon (car with key) does not light up, then the ignition key has been trained correctly. If the first time you slide in a new key, your car does not start, this is not a reason to panic. On its first operational start, the key undergoes final synchronization between the key itself and the controller.

The only way to train the ignition key for a Kalina, or any car in general, is with a completely new key. Those. a key that has never been trained by the immobilizer and has not undergone the learning process with a special training key. You can train working keys only in conjunction with an ECU (electronic control unit), which does not include an anti-theft system, or training can be done with an ECU that has been trained together with the training key used in this type of training.

Warning. The training key should be stored separately from the working key. Use the training key for the Viburnum fret only if you have lost the working key. It is extremely undesirable to lose the training key of the ignition switch; without the training key, learning a new key becomes impossible. Relevant dealer centers do not accept claims in case of malfunction of the control system or if the training key is lost.

Connecting the central locking system for the “Lux” package

This method is also relevant for Lada Kalina Cross in the “Norma” configuration. “Lux” and configurations with additional options imply the presence of an armrest with installed central locking buttons and electric windows. From the button contacts you need to take the one that receives power after pressing, and stretch the wire to the alarm module. To connect, you can use the following diagram:

Connecting the central locking system for the “Lux” package

This connection option is suitable specifically for the “Lux” configuration, since it has a standard alarm system, and the central locking can be installed independently if for some reason it fails.

When connecting the central locking system, all work must be carried out with the vehicle's electrical equipment de-energized. Wires must be laid so that they do not touch metal. If this is not possible, then a tube is installed to protect the cable from breakage and other negative factors.

Interesting information about the properties of standard alarms

Some time ago, information was published about the unusual capabilities of a factory alarm system, which attracted the interest of many car enthusiasts.

The alarm key fob included in the kit may be able to transmit a signal from a location point to the central alarm unit from a distance not exceeding ten meters.

It was found that signal transmission can be significantly increased using a mobile phone.

The essence of how to increase the distance of signal transmission is that if, simultaneously with sending a signal from the key fob, you get in touch with someone who is standing next to the car, then the signal is transmitted via the telephone channel. It is unknown how, since the channels on which the systems operate are completely different, but this is a confirmed fact by a large number of car owners. This is also quite interesting, because if this is in fact true, then a global increase in the communication range with the factory alarm using a cell phone could help in certain situations when the door is slammed and the keys are in the car.

Connecting the central locking system in the “Norma” configuration

In inexpensive trim levels, there is no button to close the doors from the interior at all. In this case, the connection is made according to the following scheme:

Connecting the central locking system in the “Norma” configuration

Unlike the connection diagrams for the central locking system in the Kalina “Lux” configuration, there are no resistors and the “+” voltage is not used. But in this case, when you press the close button, all doors will be locked, and when you press the unlock button, only the driver's door will open. The options considered are among the simplest; more complex schemes require special skills, so it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals at a service station.

Pulse programming

When connecting a central lock, it is not enough to perform all the steps in the correct sequence; you also need to select the required pulse duration for the locks to operate. If it is too large, the actuators will overheat; if it is insufficient, it will not be enough to open and close. In the luxury configuration, all electronics usually “fall asleep” after 15 minutes of inactivity. To awaken it, an additional impulse is needed.

Central locking is a simple device, but it can secure your car from criminals much more effectively than a police cap on the passenger seat. The centralized door lock system is the most convenient way to quickly open and close them. If this security system is supplemented with a good car alarm, this will prevent you from ending up in a situation where your car is stolen or damaged.

Having tried to open the car using the key fob, one fine day you may find that the lock continues to operate and the car does not respond to key presses. In such a situation, it will be possible to unlock one door or even the central locking system by simply unlocking the driver's door lock. Only the security mode is not deactivated. The central locking, in turn, may not respond to commands for two reasons - the battery in the key fob is dead or synchronization is lost. How to solve these problems is discussed further.

Restoring synchronization

Let's say the keys on the key fob were pressed 1000 times outside the system's coverage area. Then synchronization between the following devices is lost: the key fob and the central locking control module. If the power to the chip installed in the key fob is turned off even for a short time, this will also cause a loss of synchronization. The maximum time interval, as we found out from the reviews, is 6 seconds.


VAZ key fob in two versions

The instruction manual attached to the cars of the Granta and Kalina-2 family says the following: in case of loss of synchronization, the key fob is re-registered, that is, data about it is entered into the system memory. The recording procedure is quite complex, and to complete it you need a “learning key”. If synchronization is indeed lost, try this:

  1. Turn on the ignition with the key you want to synchronize;
  2. Wait 6 seconds;
  3. The immobilizer lamp should start flashing, and then the ignition is turned off;
  4. After 10 seconds the ignition is turned on again. If the immobilizer lamp does not blink, it means that synchronization has been restored.

Everything looks simple, but the specified sequence will not necessarily be effective.

If there is a “training key”, but there is not a single registered key with buttons, you can start the engine like this: turn the ignition on and off, the lamp begins to flash, then within 6 seconds the key is moved to mark II (starter).

Training procedure:

Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:

  • the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
  • the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
  • a new system password is written into the training key;
  • all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
  • The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.

The training procedure is applied in the following cases:

  • activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
  • erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
  • changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
  • remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.

Switching the central locking system to single unlocking pulse mode

The controller unlocks the doors in two steps: a single press on the “Open” button unlocks the driver’s door, and you can completely unlock the door with a second press. But according to AvtoVAZ instructions, it is possible to reconfigure the system, and then disabling the lock will be done in one step. The setup procedure looks elementary:

  1. The ignition is turned on with a key equipped with control keys;
  2. Press the “Open” and “Close” buttons on the key and hold them for 5 seconds;
  3. The buzzer should sound and then the keys will be released.

If a single signal sounds, it means that the system has entered the required mode. The question remains how to return it to its previous mode of operation. Perform the sequence discussed here a second time. At the end, a double signal will sound, which will confirm the transition to the previous settings.

The single pulse mode is characterized by the following. If the driver's door is opened with a key rather than using a key fob, the controller unlocks each door. However, the effect of pressing the “Open” button will look the same.

Replacing a dead battery

Let's say the LED located on the key fob body flashes quickly when you press any key. There will be no reactions from the central locker in this case. All of the above suggests that it is time to replace the battery. Details are discussed below.

If the LED flashes when you press the key, you can still start the car with that key. The immobilizer can easily read the code written into the key fob chip, and synchronization will not be lost either. But it is recommended to hurry up when replacing the battery.

So, to disassemble the key fob body, you will need a Phillips screwdriver. Having unscrewed one self-tapping screw, use a knife to separate the halves that make up the housing structure. The result looks like this:

Once the circuit board is removed, look at which battery is being used. The first characters of the designation are the letters “CR”. Then comes a set of numbers.

When making a replacement, try not to leave the contacts free for more than 6 seconds. Otherwise, there is a high probability of loss of synchronization.

It can be summarized that the replacement operation is performed in three steps:

  1. We disassemble the case, determine the type of battery;
  2. We purchase the same battery;
  3. We are making a replacement.

Care must be maintained at every step.

Collection of “people's councils”

If the central locking is not working properly, but you know that the key fobs are fully functional, you can try the following steps:

  1. The power supply circuit of the central locking controller is protected by fuse F22. This element can be replaced or simply disabled and then installed back;
  2. Let's say no current flows to the actuator of one door. Then find the terminal block by opening the door 90 degrees. In order for the broken contact to be restored, sometimes it is enough to disconnect the mating connector and connect it again;
  3. Even if the key fob is working, check whether the self-tapping screw is screwed in all the way. It is recommended to loosen the fastening a little, and then everything works reliably.

To follow “tip number 1”, look for the fifth fuse from the top in the mounting block. The rating of this element is 15 Amperes.


Here is the correct fuse

So, I’ll start with the fact that about a year ago the first problems appeared with the standard alarm key fob on my Kalina. And this manifested itself in the following way: every now and then the buttons began to work, the doors did not open at the first press, and sometimes you just had to stand for five minutes at the car while you opened the central locking with the button.

In general, after disassembling the key fob, it turned out that some element inside it bounced off the microcircuit (I don’t know what to call it, I’m not involved in electronics). In general, this was precisely the reason for the key’s operation in such a country.

At first I ignored all this and continued to drive like this, and now instead of pressing the key fob button, I had to constantly insert the key into the door lock, which is not very convenient. This went on for more than six months, until the time of cold weather arrived. I think there’s no need to talk once again about the delights of the situation when the door lock, or rather its cylinder, freezes. And that is why it was decided to buy a new key fob for Kalina’s standard key and carry out the training procedure for it.

Comments

Submitted by Guest Thu, 24/11/2011 — 17:57 Permalink


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