VAZ 2110 fuel pump injector, VAZ 2112 fuel pump, etc. — electric fuel pumps, installed on many VAZ models with an injector. The operation of this type of fuel pump is partially controlled by an electronic control system (ECM), which takes into account the air-to-fuel ratio, throttle position and exhaust composition.
The VAZ fuel pump (2110, 2112) is designed to supply fuel from the gas tank to the vehicle’s internal combustion engine. In this case, fuel from the car’s gas tank must be supplied uninterruptedly to the internal combustion engine, and under a certain pressure. This is the key to stability and reliability of the car’s power unit.
If the fuel supply is disrupted or stopped altogether, there is a high probability of failure of one of the devices in the overall fuel supply circuit. One of these elements is the VAZ 2110 (21102) fuel pump. Next, we will look at why the pump can fail, what its malfunctions are and how to fix them.
Fuel pump 2110: where it is located and signs of malfunction
The fuel pump for the VAZ 2110 injector is designed to pump fuel from the fuel tank (gas tank) to the vehicle’s internal combustion engine. Inside the fuel pump there is an electrically powered electric motor with a mini-pump, through which uninterrupted fuel pumping occurs.
The VAZ 2110 turbine-type electric fuel pump consists of the following main elements:
- outlet fitting;
- electric motor;
- brushes;
- one way valve;
- impeller;
- inlet and outlet;
- coarse filter;
The electric fuel pump on the VAZ works actively, pumping fuel, it is quite noisy and heats up quickly. In this regard, its location is the fuel tank of the car. The pump is a submersible type, that is, it is located directly in the fuel. In this case, the fuel cools the device and also dampens noise.
If we look at the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110, signs of a malfunction usually clearly indicate problems with the fuel supply. As a rule, diagnosing pump faults on a VAZ 2110 (2112) does not cause difficulties for car owners. But before diagnosing a breakdown, you need to know the symptoms.
VAZ 2110 pump and main symptoms of malfunctions:
- the engine does not start, there is no pressure in the fuel line, the pump cannot be heard whirring when the starter is running or the ignition is turned on;
- When the engine is engaged in gear and at the beginning of the movement, it almost does not pick up speed; it needs to be revved up.
- engine starting is normal, at neutral speed the engine easily picks up idle speed, but when driving at high and medium speeds, “twitching”, dips, etc. occur;
- the operation of the fuel pump is accompanied by an uncharacteristic sound (loud noise);
- There was a noticeable change in the sound of the fuel pump from the moment the ignition was turned on until the fuel was pumped into the fuel rail.
FAQ - Benzonaos
Hi all!
I changed the fuel pump motor and screen this week, so I decided to try to make a short instruction with a photo on how to replace the fuel pump motor. When the fuel pump goes bad, many people go and buy a new fuel pump assembly, but why pay more when you can just change the fuel pump motor?!
Our price for a fuel pump assembly is 1.6 - 2000 rubles _____Price for a fuel pump motor is 700 rubles
And so the difference turns out to be 1300 rubles, and literally 15 minutes more work! And why pay 1,300 rubles just for a plastic body, float and check valve?!
And so closer to the point:
1) Remove the rear seat, see in the middle under the rear seat a cover that is held on by two screws, unscrew them with a Phillips screwdriver and move it to the side
We see this picture.
2) Remove the chip, two fuel pipes and unscrew the eight nuts with a 10 wrench
3) We take out the fuel pump (when removing the fuel pump, it will need to be tilted towards the right rear door, since there is a float there and there will still be gasoline in it, it will need to be carefully drained so as not to flood the interior =))
4) We remove the retaining ring from the guides (it is not necessary to install the retaining ring; it is made so that when removing the fuel pump, the fuel pump will not come apart on its own =))
5) Remove the chip with the wires from the top inside and simply stretch the fuel pump so that the guides come out of their grooves
6) Next, we pull out the core of the fuel pump and look at this picture (to remove the core, you will need to snap off the grooves around the plastic body)
7) Remove the mesh from this core, pull off this holder from above and pull out the fuel pump motor
8) We remove the pipe on the fuel pump motor, take a new fuel pump motor, coat it with sealant and put the pipe on the new motor (the oak pipes there are difficult to remove; I heated them with a hairdryer and pulled them off)
9) We insert the motor into the core and put on a new mesh (the mesh has no tricks; it can be removed and inserted with little effort)
10) Install the core with the new motor as it was (make sure that all the grooves are latched and in place)
11) We insert the guides into their places, squeeze it and carry it to install it in the car!
I’ll share my limited knowledge regarding independent and quick diagnosis of the fuel pump
(the fuel pump may hum but not pump)
- If your car does not start, first check whether there is gasoline in the fuel rail. To do this, turn on the ignition, open the hood and on the left side of the engine you will see plastic cap, unscrew it, there will be a nipple there and press on it - if gasoline splashes from there, then the fuel pump is somehow pumping.
— If gasoline does not spray from there, then check the fuel pump fuse. It is located to the left of the front passenger’s foot under the panel. Unscrew this plastic cover and you will see three relays and three fuses, our distant one. You can also turn on the fuel pump forcibly; to do this, remove the plastic case from the distant relay and pinch the relay with your fingers
— If the fuse is intact, the motor is buzzing and there is no gasoline in the fuel rail, then remove the back seat, unscrew the cap on the fuel pump, remove the pipe that is closer to the right door, go to the switch and force the fuel pump on, if gasoline is pouring out of the fuel pump, then most likely the fuel pump is intact, if not, then you need to change the fuel pump motor
He described a method of checking without any special tools; it’s not ideal, but it may come in handy somewhere on the road or in the garage if there is nothing
Don’t forget to change your gas filters on time; the life of your gas pump depends on it!)
VAZ 2110 fuel pump: main causes of malfunctions
On the VAZ 2110, the electric fuel pump is generally a fairly reliable mechanism, but under the influence of certain factors, malfunctions can still occur in it. The causes of fuel pump malfunction may be:
- faults in electrical wiring and circuits (dirty and rusty contacts, melted or damaged wires, failure of relays or fuses) - interfering with the operation of the gas pump, limiting the required current parameters, which causes failures and difficulties when pumping fuel;
- clogging of the fuel filter - a sharp decrease in the pressure created by the pump, accordingly, a deterioration in its performance;
The appearance of debris and foreign impurities in the fuel tank - dirt, rust, mechanical particles, water, etc. (penetrating into the fuel pump, they cause contamination of the fuel pump filter and its breakdown); - natural wear and tear of the rubbing parts of the fuel pump (vehicle mileage from 150-200 thousand km or more).
- traveling long distances with a small amount of fuel in the tank - the fuel pump, being not immersed in fuel, quickly overheats, the internal lubricant dries out, the device wears out and fails.
Replacing the filler neck of the gas tank pipe
In my practice, there were many cases when, when removing the gas tank on a VAZ 2110, I had to cut off the hose or even the filler neck, since everything was stuck so tightly that it was simply impossible to do otherwise. If for some reason you have damaged the gas tank filler pipe, then the article below will show you the process of replacing this part with a new one.
Tools you will need to complete this job:
- Phillips screwdriver
- Head for 8 mm, 10 and 13 mm
- Ratchet handles
- Extension Cords
- Penetrating lubricant
- Flat blade screwdriver
Removing and installing the tank filler neck on a VAZ 2110
So, the first thing you need to do is remove the rear right wheel and first jack up the car to make it easier to carry out all the repairs. After this, unscrew the clamp bolt that secures the hose and pipe.
Now we go up a little higher and unscrew the neck fastening nut using a 13 mm wrench. This is clearly shown in the photo below.
And another clamp is located above. There you will need a key for 10.
And remove the clamp, putting it aside so as not to lose it. Next, open the gas tank flap and remove the rubber casing.
And now you can carefully move the filling pipe down to bring it to a more convenient position.
And now all that remains is to disconnect the hose from the top of the pipe, which is shown in the photo. We loosen the clamp that tightens this thin hose.
And after trying a little, we remove the hose from the tube:
Now the neck is almost completely freed, and all that remains is to disconnect it from the hose from below, the clamp of which we unscrewed at the very beginning.
After which we remove it without any problems. The end result is shown in the photo below.
The price of a new neck (filler pipe) of a gas tank on a VAZ 2110 is about 1000 rubles, but the same version can be bought at a disassembly site for half the price. Installation occurs in reverse order.
Diagnosis of faults in the VAZ 2110 fuel pump and its replacement
Before you start replacing the fuel pump, you need to make sure that it is broken. The VAZ electric fuel pump is checked in several ways:
- checking for mechanical damage - if the mechanism is significantly worn or debris or foreign particles get into it, the operation of the pump will be accompanied by a characteristic noise;
- checking the coarse filter for clogging - engine power drops, unstable operation at low and idle speeds, engine starting is difficult, etc.
- checking the pressure level in the fuel line - if in transition mode the pump does not produce the required pressure, it means that the coarse filter mesh is clogged, but if, when the return pipe is pinched, the pressure in the fuel line does not reach 0.4 kPa, the fuel pump itself is badly worn.
Please note that at idle speed the pressure value should be in the range of 0.23-0.25 kPa, when starting the engine the pressure value should reach 0.3 kPa, in transition mode the pressure readings should be in the range of 0.28-0.3 kPa. A pressure gauge is used for measurements.
If we consider the 2110 fuel pump, the price, as well as repair of the device, is quite affordable. At the same time, the VAZ 2110 electric fuel pump is usually not repaired, but only inspected (for example, replacing the fuel pump filter), since the pump itself is equipped with a non-demountable housing.
Of course, if necessary, electric fuel pumps are also repaired (repairing brushes and engine commutator, replacing the clutch, rewinding the armature) by experienced specialists, subject to the availability of special equipment. However, the cost of repair will be similar to the cost of a new pump, and sometimes higher.
For this reason, in the event of a breakdown, the pump is immediately replaced with a new one. The price of a VAZ electric pump will depend on the design, configuration and manufacturer. For example, an electric fuel pump 2112-1139009 VAZ-2110 submersible assembly (fuel drain line) PEKAR can be found for 2000-2200 rubles.
Now let's move on to the replacement. Preparatory work before replacing the fuel pump:
- prepare tools and materials (screwdriver, socket wrench “10”, wrench, open-end wrench “13”, rags, new pump);
- disconnect the battery terminal to prevent damage to electrical equipment and improve safety.
We also recommend reading the article about where the water in the gas tank comes from and what a gas tank moisture displacer is. From this article you will learn where the water in the fuel tank comes from, as well as how and how to remove water from the gas tank.
As for how to change the VAZ 2110 fuel pump, replacing the VAZ 2110 fuel pump and the general algorithm of actions are as follows:
- dismantle the seat to gain access to the fuel pump (unscrew the hatch located under the trim and disconnect the electric drive connector);
- Unscrew the tip of the fuel pipes with an open-end wrench, and, pulling the pipes, use a spanner to unscrew the eight nuts around the perimeter of the pressure ring to release the flange;
- remove the gasket under the pressure ring of the VAZ 2110 pump (the gasket is changed along with the pump);
Lift the fuel pump together with the float, not forgetting to place a rag in the interior to collect gasoline flowing from the body (the remaining gasoline in the pump is about 1 liter). - Reassemble in the reverse order; the correct position of the pump should correspond to the arrow directed towards the trunk (the arrow is located on the top of the lid).
During replacement, you must be careful, do not allow excessive fuel to leak into the cabin, work only with open windows for normal ventilation, etc. Also, when replacing, it is necessary to remove the level sensor and float. When installing a new pump, you need to make sure that the fuel lines are securely fixed, the same can be said about the electrical connectors.
Advantages of injection models
The main function of the pump is to supply fuel to the combustion chamber. It must meet certain requirements. The main criterion is pressure.
The pumps for injection and carburetor engines are different. Thanks to the engine with direct fuel injection, there is no need for preliminary preparation of the combustible mixture. As you know, the carburetor is the weak link. Difficult adjustments, clogged jets, difficult starting in cold weather create inconvenience for owners of classic VAZ brands.
Tens and VAZ-2112 internal combustion engines have significant advantages. Let us note the advantages of injection units:
Unfortunately, the injector has a number of disadvantages. Maintenance and repairs have to be carried out at a service station. It also requires qualified personnel and a computer to determine the malfunction of electronic components. Let us point out other disadvantages:
Let's sum it up
Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that the uninterrupted operation of the electric fuel pump of the VAZ 2110 or any other car will depend on correct and timely preventive maintenance, as well as on careful operation and compliance with certain rules.
We also recommend reading the article on how to change the fuel pump mesh with your own hands. From this article you will learn when and why it is needed, as well as how to replace the fuel pump strainer.
Only clean fuel should be poured into the tank and the fuel filter should be changed promptly. It may also be necessary to periodically change or clean the fuel pump strainer, use a moisture displacer from the gas tank, etc. Please note that it is not recommended to drive with an empty tank as the pump will not cool properly.
Finally, we note that in the event of malfunctions in the operation of the internal combustion engine, it is quite possible to diagnose and replace the fuel pump yourself in a regular garage (if you have the tools). However, working with the fuel system will require increased caution and compliance with all safety measures. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to experienced specialists.
Mechanical fuel pumps, principle of operation, pros and cons
The design of a mechanical fuel pump includes the following components:
- Mesh filter.
- Lid.
- Top plate.
- Upper part of the body.
- Distance spacers.
- Working diaphragms.
- Bottom plate.
- Safety diaphragm.
- Return spring.
- Stock.
- Lever for manual inflation.
- Lower part of the body.
This design forms a chamber having exhaust and inlet valves. These valves are located in the upper part of the mechanical fuel pump housing. The drive lever of this type of fuel pump constantly moves up and down, but the lever moves the diaphragm down only when the fuel pump chamber needs to be filled. With the help of a return spring, the diaphragm moves back up. This is how fuel is supplied to the carburetor.
Electric fuel pumps, operating principle, pros and cons
The design of the electric fuel pump includes the following components:
- Inlet and outlet valve.
- Camera.
- Return spring.
- Diaphragm.
- Core.
- Solenoid valve.
- Electrical contacts.
The electric fuel pump operates using a special core that is retracted into the solenoid valve until the contacts for supplying electric current are disconnected. Turning the ignition key before starting is a signal to the vehicle's on-board computer. At this stage, electric current is already supplied to the fuel pump. The power unit has not yet started, and the electric motor inside the fuel pump raises the pressure in the system to operating pressure in a couple of seconds. That is why it is recommended to wait two to three seconds before turning the starter and starting the power unit.
