Knock in the front suspension of Largus

Many owners of Lada Largus experience extremely annoying squeaking of seats when driving. There are several ways to fix this problem.

First, make sure that it is the creaking of the seats: it happens that the seat belt buckle creaks. Moreover, both the driver's and the passenger's locks can creak. Try to press the lock with your hand at the moment of creaking (be careful, watch the road!) - if there is a problem there, it will immediately show up. It is easy to treat - spray any silicone grease both on the fasteners of the lock and in the belt buckle itself (yes, yes!). If the creaking resumes, unscrew the lock securing nut (see here) and install a thick washer under it. The creaking from this place will disappear forever.

The most likely places for Largus seats to squeak:

in the place where the cushion springs are attached to the bracket on the seat frame.
in a sled
in places of friction of springs, or a metal frame with foam rubber
seat side studs

The first and easiest thing to try is silicone spray lubricant. Do not use lubricants with a strong odor. Spray the spray where the cushion springs engage with the metal seat frame.

If you find that the sound comes precisely from the friction of the foam rubber, then also use silicone lubricant.

Lubricate the seat slides with solid lubricant (for example lithol).

For a more radical solution, remove the seat and place pieces of rubber under the hooks of the springs (see photo)

Try to ensure that the width of the underlying material covers the entire width of the bracket to which the spring is attached.

There are similar solutions when the springs are removed and various kinds of tubes and cambrics are put on them, and they are wrapped with electrical tape and tape. But these methods do not give a long-term effect and are more labor-intensive.

A piece of hose placed on a previously removed spring also solves the squeaking problem.

Another reason is two RIVETS that are located on the side of the seat, one closer to the seat belt buckle, the other closer to the front of the seat. (see photo)

The rivets are also treated with silicone grease, after which the creaking from them completely disappears.

Characteristics and design

The suspension on the Lada Largus has proven itself to be reliable, soft, energy-intensive and as simple as possible. Like many components, it migrated almost unchanged from Renault Logan. Manufacturers decided not to modernize this Logan part, which was recognized by car enthusiasts as indestructible on Russian roads.

Front suspension device

The main structural details are the following elements:

stretcher;
levers;
spherical bearing;
silent blocks;
repeated fist;
hub;
shock absorber with spring;
anti-roll bar.

Experienced car enthusiasts will immediately understand that structurally this is an ordinary MacPherson, but there are some dissimilar parts. Unlike other models of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant (with the exception of the Vesta family), the Lada Largus suspension is equipped with a subframe to which an anti-roll bar with silent blocks is attached.

The front suspension of the Largus is independent, and the subframe serves to increase rigidity.

Also, in previous AvtoVAZ models, the ball joint is changed separately from the lever. Largus uses the Logan suspension platform, so here the ball joints are changed only together with the lower arm. At the same time, we must pay tribute: the suspension design is reliable and durable.

The next difference between Largus is the mounting of the anti-roll bar. Here it is not rigidly attached to the strut with the shock absorber; it is attached directly to the lower arm. In this design there are no so-called tips, which are located on the rod connecting the strut and stabilizer. They usually wear out over time and become a source of suspension noise.

If you do not take into account the ball joint, which is assembled with the lower arm, the Largus front suspension is simple, and most importantly, repairable. Basically, problems begin to arise with fairly active mileage (more than 100,000 km). Due to the simplicity of the device and the small number of elements, even beginners can diagnose a fault.

Largus rear suspension diagram

Rear suspension features

The basis of the entire structure is a semi-independent beam. Inside it there is a stabilizer bar, which is rigidly fixed to the lower arms. The latter, in turn, (namely, the amplifiers) are supported by shock-absorbing springs.

The main feature of the Largus rear suspension is that the spring and shock absorber are not a single module, but are located separately from each other.

Structurally, the Largus rear suspension consists of a beam, shock absorbers, springs and silent blocks (not counting fasteners and other connecting elements). There are usually no special problems with the rear suspension, even with high mileage. The system, both front and rear, is reliable and easy to repair, and spare parts are always available.

What are the best rack supports for Granta?

The main requirements for Granta and Kalina 2 support bearings are endurance and reliability. The support bearing takes the entire load from the car body, as well as from the shock absorber strut, allowing the latter to rotate freely around the longitudinal axis.

Grants support bearing diagram

The dynamic loads of the shock absorber rod are absorbed by a rubber damper. The more reliable it is, the longer the support will last. The spring rests against a support cup with a rubber-coated ball support bearing. However, different manufacturers offer different solutions for support.

Thus, some supports are produced with reinforced bearings (balls of larger diameter), there are supports with a changed caster angle. To do this, the axis of the shock absorber strut is shifted by 6 or 12 mm, which ensures a change in the caster angle to 1°40′ or 2°45′, respectively.

Standard supports cost about $12 apiece, owner reviews about them are not the most encouraging, so most often you have to buy replacements for the original:

Pillow bearing SS20 series Master, Gold, Drive, differ in caster angle and damper design. They last quite a long time and are easy to install. The price is about 26 dollars per piece. ANVIS 2190 Rack Mounts, $27/pair, 6mm offset. Available for both Granta and Kalina 2 with and without EUR. Compatible with all types of springs (11190 or 11196), as well as the most popular KAYABA or SACHS struts. Sevi support bearings, price from $20 per pair. A budget option with the strut tilted by 1 degree and the shock absorber axis shifted back by 6 mm. Demfi, article number dff21901 (2190-2902822-12), are sold without a support bearing, which has catalog number 1118-2902840. The price is about 15 dollars. Reviews are contradictory. Technologies of the future, article number 2192-2902821, price about 26 dollars per pair. There are few reviews, mostly positive. Budget Slovak supports LSA, sold without bearings, price about $10 per pair. Trialli supports (SA 0156), complete with bearing, price 10 dollars apiece, run well, good assembly, bearing of standard sizes.

Front and rear unit malfunctions

Lada Largus is considered one of the most popular domestic cars. The first of its main advantages is its “indestructible” suspension. But despite its high reliability and durability, the system will sooner or later need maintenance and repair. Thanks to this, it will be possible to extend the life of the suspension and prevent failure of other elements. You can avoid unpleasant consequences and costly repairs by identifying faults correctly and in a timely manner.

Signs of problems with the subframe on Largus

In the case of this element, you need to understand that it serves as the basis of the front suspension. And identifying its malfunctions in a timely manner means avoiding more serious problems, including replacing a failed unit. Not only the suspension arms, but also the exhaust system cushions, as well as the rear part of the power plant are attached to the subframe.

Wear or damage to the suspension subframe can be easily determined independently by some characteristic signs. For example, the main indicator is the play in the places where attachments are attached. In addition, a knock from the front will indicate a malfunction (a knock is generally a characteristic sign of problems with the suspension).

Problems with the subframe can also be indicated by wheel alignment/camber problems.

Signs of faulty shock absorber struts

These parts are designed to level the car while driving. And also to ensure smooth suspension movement when hitting various obstacles and uneven surfaces. Shock absorbers and springs prevent the body from swaying too much and also provide vehicle clearance.

Malfunctions of shock absorbers and springs can be easily recognized by the following symptoms:

oil leaks;
strong body swaying when hitting obstacles;
vibration, squeaks and knocking when moving;
controllability decreases;
strong shocks and impacts (suspension breakdown) when falling even into small holes.

An equally important role in the suspension is played by springs, which have their own characteristic symptoms of malfunctions. These include reduced ground clearance, jolts and strong swaying when hitting obstacles. When the coils of springs break, you can notice how the body tilts in one direction or another when the car is standing on a level surface.

Signs of a malfunctioning stabilizer bar

This element is designed to maintain vehicle stability in a flat plane and prevent the body from swaying. The stabilizer functions together with levers, with the help of which it is attached to shock absorber struts and hubs. The part is quite durable, but due to natural wear and tear, the time comes to replace the suspension stabilizer.

The malfunction of this element can be diagnosed by a number of general signs and some special symptoms.

What's happening:

In what situations:

An important part of the suspension is the levers, with their help the angle of rotation of the drive wheels is limited. The lever is connected to the steering knuckle through a ball joint. This element itself is a metal tube bent in a certain way. Accordingly, it fails very rarely.

Malfunctions associated with suspension arms will most often be the result of wear or damage to the silent blocks with which the arms are secured.

Malfunctions can be identified by the following signs:

imbalance of the drive wheels;
knocking when hitting obstacles;
While driving, the car pulls to the left or right.

Other reasons

When the driver realizes that his steering wheel is creaking when turning, he begins to look for the cause. However, the malfunction may lie in different elements of the car system. Specific car brands have their own specific reasons, which are not discussed in this article. The variety of steering systems is so great that there are many causes of malfunction.

In any case, whatever the cause of the problem, it must be eliminated as soon as possible. And it will be good if a professional does this. It's best to see a mechanic as soon as you notice any warning signs that could indicate a problem with your power steering or other critical components. Underestimating minor problems can lead to their aggravation and complete destruction of the system, which is associated with expensive repairs.

Restoration of suspension elements of Lada Largus

Repair work mainly involves the removal and replacement of worn parts. To carry them out you will definitely need the following set of tools:

jack (if there is no lift);
set of socket heads and wrenches;
screwdrivers;
hammer, mounting blade, etc.

Suspension repairs at the rear and front differ slightly. In addition, the front suspension is structurally more complex. Therefore, most of the work on replacing failed parts is considered from the front.

Replacing the anti-roll bar

Elements crack, tear, and wear out as they wear out, causing play to appear at the joints. Therefore, in the case of Largus suspension stabilizer struts, it is necessary to replace worn rubber-metal parts. Replacing the Lada Largus stabilizer is as follows.

Raise the front of the car (or use a lift).
Unscrew the stabilizer mount to the arms (you should first clean the screw from dirt so you can use a spanner).
When unscrewing the fastener (nut), use a wrench to hold the screw, preventing it from turning.
Remove the lower rubber bushing.
Pull out the screw along with the bushing and the plastic washer located below.

The fasteners of the stabilizer and suspension arm are removed in the same way. New parts are installed in the reverse order of removal. When tightening the fasteners, do not overtighten. To replace the rod pads, you need to unscrew the bolt securing the bracket and subframe using a spanner. Next, you should dismantle the pillow and install a new part in its place in the reverse order. The suspension bar cushion on the other side is changed in the same way.

To dismantle the rod itself, you need to unscrew the fastenings on the lever side and remove the brackets. If, upon inspection, signs of wear are found in the places where the cushions are attached, it is better to change the bar.

Replacing levers

On Lada Largus cars it is not necessary to change them so often. This is usually done when changing ball joints or silent blocks. To work, you also need to hang the entire front part - if you lift only one side, the stabilizer will not allow you to remove the lever.

To remove it, you will need to unscrew the attachment of the rod to the lever and remove the motor protective shield. Next, the bolt securing the ball joint and steering knuckle is unscrewed. This bolt needs to be pulled out if you can’t knock it out with a hammer. Use a flat-head screwdriver or pry bar to loosen the connection between the ball joint and the steering knuckle.

The next step is to press the lever down. The ball end will disengage with the steering knuckle. Use a socket to unscrew the bolt securing the bracket to the subframe, after which it can be removed.

Using a wrench, unscrew the nut of the lever mounting bolt from the front, and then knock it out. Then you also need to unscrew the rear bolt nut and knock out the bolt in the same way. Now the lever can be removed and a new one installed in the reverse order.

Replacing the ball joint

These parts are changed much more often than other suspension elements, even despite the long service life of these parts. Typically, replacement of the unit is required when the rubber boot is damaged, play appears, etc. Using the instructions above, you need to dismantle the lever along with the ball joint.

Using a screwdriver, you need to pry up the assembly housing and knock out (press out using a special puller) the ball from the housing.

Before installing a new ball, you need to carefully inspect the seat and clean this place from dust and dirt. Using a suitable mandrel or placing a socket of the appropriate size under the lever, install a new ball, pressing it into the seat with a hammer. Then everything needs to be done according to the reverse removal procedure.

Replacing wheel bearings

At high mileage they often fail. These parts need to be replaced immediately. A new bearing is also required after removing the hub (the bearing will be damaged in most cases).

The work of replacing the unit should be done like this.

Raise the parking brake lever and engage 1st gear (place wheel chocks under the wheels).
Unscrew the nut securing the hub to the axle (if necessary, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal to prevent turning). In general, the hub nut must be loosened before the car is jacked up.
Remove the wheel (the wheel bolts are loosened before hanging).
Disconnect the speed sensor and front brake protection.
Remove the tip of the drive rod from the knuckle and remove the ball end from the seat on the steering knuckle.
Unscrew the bolts securing the shock absorber strut from the steering knuckle.
Using a special puller, press the wheel bearing out of its seat on the hub.

The wheel bearing is held in place by a snap ring, so you need to remove that ring first, then the seal, and then the wheel bearing.

Before installing a new bearing, you need to clean the place for it and the groove for mounting the retaining ring. The bearing is pressed into the seat using the same puller. Further assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Ways to increase the clearance of Largus

The domestic station wagon is very popular due to its unpretentiousness and reliability. One of the important indicators is solid ground clearance. Transporting goods with these vehicles is a common occurrence. And this inevitably leads to an increase in the load on the suspension, namely on the shock-absorbing struts, which sag due to weight, resulting in a decrease in ground clearance.

We must not forget the quality of Russian roads. It is sometimes impossible to move through potholes and potholes without damaging the suspension. In any case, the amount of ground clearance in this regard is crucial. Because of these factors, many Largus owners try to increase the ground clearance with their own hands. Today there are several ways to do this inexpensively and quickly.

Increasing ground clearance with your own hands

In order to increase ground clearance (suspension lift), car owners use several basic techniques:

installation of wheels or tires with a larger radius;
installation of special spacers for shock-absorbing struts;
replacing the springs with stiffer ones, as well as installing extended shock absorbers.

Some people use air suspension for these purposes. From the point of view of rationalism (and Largus is mainly used by people who prefer the practicality of a station wagon), this is unjustified. Firstly, the equipment is expensive, and secondly, not every car owner can install air suspension with his own hands. Plus, the compressor and receiver will take up useful space in the trunk, which is again impractical.

This type of suspension tuning is not popular.

Noises from power steering

Despite the fact that electric power steering is being introduced very often today, the main driver assistant when steering in most passenger cars remains power steering. This unit may make noise due to a lack of working fluid. In this case, you need to add it to a tank specially designed for this purpose. Just add the same liquid that the manufacturer used, the amplifier itself is configured specifically for the operating parameters of a particular product, and the use of a different liquid can be very negatively perceived by the amplifier. In addition to the lack of working fluid, the cause of noise in the power steering can be its pump, if it is about to die, you also need to check the condition of the power steering belt, because certain difficulties can also arise with it. And if the condition of the power steering belt makes you suspicious, it is better to replace the belt.

: when braking in a car - why and what to do?

Installation of wheels with a larger radius

Largus comes standard with 15R wheels. Many motorists choose the 16 or 17 radius option instead of the one proposed by the factory. Additionally, this makes the car's exterior more attractive. However, this option also has a significant drawback, namely the unstable position of the car when driving, as well as malfunctions in the ABS system and some related sensors.

Installation of spacers

The most budget option (and popular) is to install special spacers, which are sold at any auto parts store. The only thing that is required from the car owner is the removal of the suspension struts. The parts themselves are unified and suitable for many VAZ cars. Spacers are installed between the rack and the body bowls (as an option - between the beam and the rack).

Replacing strut parts

One of the best methods for increasing ground clearance is to install stiffer springs and longer shock absorbers. As a rule, such racks are approximately 20 mm longer than standard devices. In combination with reinforced springs, they are able to significantly increase ground clearance, and the car does not sag all the way when transporting the maximum permissible weight of cargo. The only drawback is the higher price of such kits.

Repairing the suspension yourself and increasing the ground clearance on the Lada Largus is easy to do if you have at least minimal car repair skills. If you have never done this before, it is still recommended to carefully study the instructions. And if you are unsure of your own abilities, it is better to turn to qualified car service specialists.

Checking the chassis and transmission

We check the condition of the chassis and transmission every 15 thousand kilometers. The parts of the chassis (wheels, suspension arms, anti-roll bar, front suspension subframe, rear suspension beam, shock absorbers and suspension springs) and transmission (front wheel drive shafts) must be free of deformations, cracks and other mechanical damage affecting the shape and strength of parts. Alternately hanging the front and rear wheels (while the car must be securely fixed on stands), we check the condition of the wheel hub bearings.

Use only factory-made stands. The wheel should rotate evenly by hand, without jamming or knocking.

Holding the wheel in a vertical plane, we alternately sharply pull the upper part of the wheel toward ourselves, and the lower part away from us, and vice versa. We make sure there is no play (knock). If there is a knock on the front wheel, ask an assistant to press the brake pedal. If the knocking noise disappears, then the wheel bearing is faulty, and if the knocking noise remains, then the ball joint is most likely worn out. The hub bearings of the front and rear wheels are not adjustable and must be replaced if there is play. To check the serviceability of the ball joint, insert a mounting blade between the steering knuckle eye (which includes the ball joint pin) and the suspension arm.

By pressing the lever away from the steering knuckle with a mounting blade, we monitor the movement of the ball joint housing relative to the steering knuckle eye. If there is play in the connection, replace the ball joint.

We check the condition of the protective covers of the front suspension ball joints. We replace ball joints with torn or cracked covers. To check the silent block of the front suspension arm...

... we alternately insert the mounting blade between the subframe and the end of the outer bushing of the silent block (on one side) and the subframe and the lever head (on the other side of the silent block) ... ... and try to move the lever head along the axis of the bolt, first into one, and then into the other side. If the lever head moves freely, without effort, it means that the silent block of the lever is badly worn or damaged and needs to be replaced. Ruptures, cracking and swelling of the rubber bushing of the silent block are unacceptable. Similarly, we check the condition of the other silent block of the lever.

When turning the steering wheel, a grinding noise is heard in the wheel area

What could be the reason

When you hear squeaks, grinding noises, or crunching noises from a wheel when turning, this may be due to one of the following reasons:

Due to long-term use, the steering rack wears out. It is possible that the noise is due to the fact that the fastening is loose.
This result is caused by a faulty steering column.
If the shock strut bearings need replacing or have bad ball joints, this is also a possible cause of the noise.
The drive mechanism must operate in clean conditions, but if the anthers rupture, dirt will get inside and disrupt its operation.

Functional load of Lada Largus suspensions

Comfort during movement is achieved through the interaction of mechanisms focused on smoothness, muffling unevenness and eliminating unwanted vibrations.
Handling is characterized by an adequate response to all steering commands from the driver. Moreover, accuracy and convenience of maneuvers become important aspects when increasing or switching speed.
The suspensions of the Lada Largus contain actively moving parts, so the safety of the entire vehicle largely depends on them.

Front suspension

One of the main tasks of this element of the chassis is to ensure smooth movement. When the front wheel encounters an uneven road, the body continues its movement along the previously traversed trajectory, “damping” all vibrations.

Its design is much more complex than the rear variation, since it provides the ability to change the position of the front wheels, thereby providing effective control of movement in all directions. This is justified by a number of design features that are subject to additional loads.

It is worth noting that the front part of the Lada Largus, like any other car, is heavier than the rear, because the weighty units of the power and chassis are concentrated there. Undoubtedly, this causes a large load, which contributes to its rapid wear. Thus, the condition of the front suspension is directly related to the safety of driving the car.

Rear suspension

As a rule, the rear suspension of the Lada Largus is much simpler than the front: the wheels of the same name are not required to change the angle of rotation, and their orientation is focused only on vertical movement. But, despite this, the condition of this unit is also related to the safety of movement and the corresponding level of comfort.

In relation to it, semi-dependent and dependent varieties are considered. In the first case, the suspension consists of two levers fixed between the body and the wheels, which provides optimal kinematics. The dependent suspension is connected by a rear axle beam, which is attached to the body by trailing arms.

Malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

During its operation, the suspension can cause not only all sorts of sounds in the form of knocks and squeaks, but also direct problems with the steering. If this part behaves suspiciously, it should be immediately fully diagnosed.

Noise and knocking while driving

The main reasons for the suspension failure of the Lada Largus are related to uneven roads. For example, a knocking sound in the front suspension of a Lada Largus begins after the car falls into a hole or hits a bump.

In addition, the inexperience of the car owner is not the last circumstance that leads to repair of the chassis. Having noticed a pothole belatedly, the brake pedal is pressed, which only increases the load several times and aggravates the situation.

The problem may be faulty shock absorbers, worn ball joints, loose fastening bolts, or lack of lubrication. If worn parts need to be replaced, this should be done immediately. When a malfunction of the suspension is associated with the fixing force or lack of lubricant, tightening them and appropriate lubrication will correct the situation.

If there is noise or knocking in the rear suspension, in addition to rubber seals and torque rods, attention should be paid to the condition of the exhaust pipe. A detailed analysis of the entire mechanism allows you to accurately determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it in a timely manner.

Departure of a vehicle from straight-line motion

Most often this is due to different tire pressures, incorrect wheel alignment or incorrect bearing clearance. These problems are resolved by checking and adjusting the characteristics to suit normal operation.

In some cases, even disassembling the suspension using specialized equipment is required. For example, if the front suspension arm of a Lada Largus is severely deformed, then the entire axle will need to be replaced.

It is worth noting that tire defects may not be immediately noticeable, so you should swap the wheels of the front of the car. If the direction of care changes, then the problem is in the condition of the rubber. When the loss of strength of one of the springs is to blame, it will immediately compress, affecting the visual tilt of the car body.

Vertical oscillation of the front wheels

This situation most often develops during braking or accelerating to maximum speed. The passenger car begins to tilt, and under the influence of road unevenness it makes oscillatory movements. This is justified by a possible imbalance of the wheels, settling of the suspension springs or failure of the shock absorbers.

In this case, the anti-roll bar may simply not work during acceleration and braking. Here you should check the condition of all parts and, if they are worn, replace them by securely tightening the fixing bolts.

Such vertical vibrations are unacceptable, since the chassis and steering perceive them as natural dynamic loads, which ultimately leads to loss of controllability.

How to determine the cause?

Unfortunately, not every driver can easily determine the cause of the squeak. This is almost impossible to do without a thorough diagnosis. Sounds appear when one or more elements of the car system are not working properly. It is quite difficult to understand which part is “capricious”.

Before going to the workshop, you need to pay attention to the following points:

1. What type of sound is heard.

2. The circumstances under which sound occurs.

3. Is the creaking heard regularly or does it appear at certain moments?

4. Are there any other problems with the sound?

All these symptoms need to be told to the technician so that it is easier for him to understand the operation of the machine. The easier it is to identify a problem, the faster it can be eliminated.

We treat knocking in the front suspension on small bumps and irregularities in Renault Logan