The shock absorber strut is knocking, how to fix a VAZ 2110
I wouldn’t give a damn and replace the shock absorbers with imported ones, but have the warranty workers carry out the replacement (Well, or negotiate with the macers to stick your caprons in).
As a last resort, let them install their new ones, then sell them (donate them). I’m afraid that controllability depends directly not only on wear, but also on the general level of engineering (characteristics of silent blocks, shock absorbers, springs, stabilizer thickness, etc.) Etc. e. The fact that there are MacPherson struts in the front tens does not mean that they have excellent handling by default! Although, of course, even by replacing ammo alone, it can be seriously improved.
I had two tens, even the new one, which just left the SALON, was superior in handling compared to the Lancer.
So if you go through the entire suspension of Chirik, replacing everything with imports (Ammo Koni, Eibach springs, and so on), then it will improve A LOT, but the cost of such a suspension will be equal to the cost of the Lancer suspension, so one wonders why I need such a car then.
The car is still under warranty. I drove 10 thousand, there was a knock in the strut, but not always on small bumps there is no noise, as on a larger hole the knocking sound is fucking loud, I called the warranty company, they tell me that the warranty does not apply to shock absorbers. I say, what can we do? He tells me, well, come, my boys will stretch it, but they won’t change the shock absorber; if there are no leaks, then this is not a warranty case. After that I checked there were no leaks. But he says I came across one of these with such a defect, so he said that Avto VAZ allegedly did not add oil to the cartridge. Maybe I have the same problem? Has anyone encountered such a problem??
Source
Steering rack (column)
On VAZ classic cars 2101 - 2107, a steering column is installed. If you hear a knocking noise on bumps in the left or right front part of the car, then you definitely need to check this particular unit.
On the left, as a rule, the steering column knocks, and on the right - the pendulum (you need to stand facing the car).
If the pendulum is knocking, you can replace it with a similar ball-bearing one, or replace the bushings; now it’s fashionable to install polyurethane ones.
Also, over time, the pair of worm and roller, which is located in the steering gear, wears out, this leads to an increase in the gap between them, and this in turn leads to increased play in the steering wheel and can cause a knock.
In parallel with the increase in the gap, play in the bipod shaft appears. To check it, you need to grab the bipod with both hands and pull it up and down with force.
If there is play, you will hear a knocking noise, which may occur on bumps.
To eliminate play in the steering column, unscrew the locknut as shown in the photo.
Lift up the washer that comes next. Place an assistant in the driver's seat and ask him to rotate the steering wheel to the right and left by 10 degrees. At the same time tighten the screw.
Here you need to find a middle ground, so that there is no play, and so that the steering wheel rotates effortlessly.
It is important not to overtighten the screw, as the roller-worm pair will be tightly clamped and the parts will wear out quickly. If the adjusting screw turns out to be very recessed and cannot be tightened with a lock nut, then in this case it is necessary to repair the gearbox itself or replace it
If the adjusting screw turns out to be very recessed and cannot be tightened with a lock nut, then in this case the gearbox itself must be repaired or replaced.
As for the VAZ 2115,2114,2113, 2112, 2110, 2199,2109,2108 models, to check if the steering rack is knocking or not, you need to climb under the car, grab your hand directly on the unit itself or on the inner tip of the steering tag and with force tug them. If you hear dull knocks, then you need to take measures to eliminate them.
The first thing to do is take a special steering rack wrench and tighten it. You need to press it carefully, periodically checking the unit for knocking.
If this does not help, then the steering rack needs to be removed and reanimated; if this does not help, then the unit will have to be changed.
Also find out why you hear a knocking sound when you turn the steering wheel.
Knocking from the rear pillars of the VAZ 2110: what to do, reasons
The rear suspension on the VAZ 2110 has never been silent. Actually, the same as on the VAZ 2108-2109, since on all front-wheel drive VAZs the rear suspension design is absolutely identical. With the exception of those cars that are built on the Renault platform, but that's a different story. The knocking of the rear pillars on the VAZ 2110 haunts many owners. What to do about it and how to deal with it, what are the reasons, we figured it out today.
conclusions
Of course, suspension repair work is quite complex and labor-intensive.
This is not easy to do without a special tool. But domestic motorists often make do with even a standard set of keys, which is available in every garage. The strut spring is compressed using a wire, and the ball pin is knocked out using various available devices. A VAZ is not a foreign car, so the car tolerates such treatment.
If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.
Why are the rear struts of the VAZ 2110 knocking?
As a rule, any knocking noise from the rear suspension can be associated with very specific reasons:
It is the racks that cause the most complaints from owners. If the lower mount more or less withstands the life of the shock absorbers themselves, then the upper support point of the strut often makes itself felt with a ringing knock when driving over bumps and loading the rear of the car.
Strengthening the support cup of the VAZ 2110 strut
Theoretically, even a new strut can tap if the hole for the shock absorber rod in the support cup is worn out. This occurs due to corrosion, improper installation of the strut, poor quality bushings and dampers. The problem can be solved by placing two washers with an internal diameter of 14 mm on both sides (top and bottom).
It is advisable to boil the washers if the glass is not very rusty. This size is dictated by the fact that the diameter of the stock rear shock absorber rod of the VAZ 2110 is 10 mm, and the diameter of the spacer sleeve is 14 mm. It is important to control the length of the thread, since when installing thick washers it may not be enough. In this case, shorten the spacer sleeve to the thickness of both washers. After this modification, in most cases the knocking of the strut disappears.
We are finalizing and selecting supports and cushions for the rear pillar
The stock rear strut on a VAZ 2110 is mounted in the upper part through a disc washer 3 and two strut rod pads 6 in the figure below. So, often due to the fact that the dimensions and material of the rod cushions (donuts, as garage tuning experts call them) do not correspond to the original or wear of the shock absorber, a knocking, creaking and grinding sound appears in the cup, which cannot be removed by other means.
As a rule, the upper cushion wears out, so third-party manufacturers, like СС20, have developed their own methods of combating knocking - they suggest installing two instead of three parts (two cushions + bushing). The bushing with the lower cushion is made integral, and the upper cushion is made separately.
Bushing and cushions from SS 20
At the same time, the СС20 bushing is rubberized so that the upper cushion does not wear out so much. Most of the car enthusiasts who installed such a kit were satisfied, the knocking disappeared, and the handling improved due to the fact that the rod play was eliminated.
In the case when we feel sorry for the money to buy a combined SS20 pillow, we can do it even simpler - cut off half of the stock pillow before installing the disk washer. This allows the cut cushion to constantly compress the rod regardless of wear. True, sometimes you have to tighten the shock absorber rod nut.
In this way, you can at least partially overcome the knocking of the rear shock absorber strut on the VAZ 2110.
Source
Balloons are no joke
The cause of knocks and squeaks is often wear and tear on the ball joints. This is a very important part in the form of a hinge that connects the wheel hub to the suspension arm. True, ball joints usually knock only on rear-wheel drive cars with a simple suspension. On front-wheel drive vehicles, the malfunction manifests itself in the form of a squeaking sound. The exception is cases when wear reaches a critical value, i.e. the hinge begins to simply dangle in the body.
To verify that the ball joint is faulty, you need to hang the wheel, press the brake pedal and try to turn the wheel left and right. If there is play and knocking, then the ball needs to be changed. It must be said that in some cars, such as the Lada Granta or VAZ 2110, the ball joint is bolted on, so replacing it is not difficult. But sometimes there are supports that are pressed into the lever (Mercedes CLS W219 or SsangYong Rexton). Accordingly, they are replaced along with the lever, even if it is still in good condition.
If no play is detected, you need to check the condition of the boot. The fact is that often the cause of noise in ball joints is dirt getting under the joint. Therefore, you need to add lubricant to the hinge and replace the boot.
A rupture of the ball joint (tearing out the hinge from the body) can cause an accident, since in this case the wheel turns out and the car falls on the asphalt. Therefore, when the first signs of wear appear, it must be changed.
Rear suspension design
In order to determine what could be knocking in the suspension, you should know what this element of the car consists of.
A sound in the rear suspension may appear when one of the above elements fails. At the same time, we note that if there is a constant knocking, it is imperative to carry out diagnostics of the suspension. If working with a car causes many problems, then you can entrust the diagnostics to specialists from a car service center. Note that the rear suspension has a very simple design and you can dismantle the worn part yourself.
Possible causes not related to suspension
Before determining what might be knocking, you should make sure that there is a problem with the suspension. Often, a knock may appear due to a minor malfunction of another element, but with strong vibration on the road, it seems that the problem is with the chassis elements. Possible causes of knocking include the following:
Possible breakdowns
When driving the car, you may hear extraneous knocking noises, which can be caused by several reasons:
- The shock absorber has stopped working due to wear or damage;
- The rod fastening has become loose;
- The seat of the rod was broken;
- The bushings made of rubber have finally worn out;
- The spring support cup or the spring itself has become deformed, burst or broken;
- The buffer-limiter, also made of rubber, was destroyed.
The most obvious sign of a faulty shock absorber is leaks from the element.
To check the condition of the suspension, you should sharply press the rear part down from one of the corners of the car and just as sharply release it. See how long the car will rock. If everything is fine with the suspension and struts, 1-2 cycles are enough for the movements to stop. If the swing lasts longer, then the suspension needs repair.
Examination
If shock absorbers fail, the most rational solution is to replace it. It is possible to repair a failed rear suspension element, but this will require qualifications, experience, and knowledge.
Replacement is often simpler and requires less financial resources to be spent. Plus, the choice of parts on the market today is huge, from cheap Chinese products to expensive, highly reliable imported ones.
Let us give examples of checking individual components of the rear suspension design on a VAZ 2110 car.
Component
Your actions
Top mounting point of the rack
It is located in the trunk. To visually inspect the element, you need to remove the shelf and dismantle the rubber plugs
To inspect them, you will have to lift the car using a lift or drive onto an overpass. When checking these rubber-metal elements, make sure that the rubber does not stick out and that there are no cracks on the part. Additionally, you can swing the levers using a pry bar or crowbar
If the buffer is destroyed, then a knocking noise will occur when loading the rear axle or driving over uneven surfaces. It is not difficult to determine this even by ear. But to make sure, lift the car or drive into a pit
Broken springs also often create extraneous noise and often cause the car to pull to the side. The sound should be quite unusual, sharp, and does not appear regularly.
When replacing shock absorbers and springs, the repair must be performed in pairs, that is, from the left and right sides at the same time. This should be done even if the element on one side remains intact, but the other is broken.
Communities › Lada 2110, 2111, 2112, 112, Bogdan › Forum › Knock from rear right 2110
Hi all! There was a knocking noise from the rear right, I went to the service station for diagnostics, they said everything was fine! There is also nothing to rattle in the trunk. The knock is clearly audible at 40-60 km/h (in the pits). Please tell me what could be the reason! Very annoying! When the car is loaded, the knocking is even louder, and in wet weather! Mystic)
The rack itself, the upper mount of the rack, the silent blocks of the beam, the muffler on the body
all options were checked!)) I looked on the forums, this problem was more common on Priors! Everything is fine, but something is knocking))
Is there dirt or water inside the glasses? In general, I have the same thing, only on both sides, yesterday I went to get the chassis checked, they said it was just the struts, everything else is fine
Messages 4
1 Topic by Sanjk1980 2013-12-16 12:57:03
- Sanjk1980
- New member
- Inactive
- Registration: 2013-09-23
- Messages: 12 Thanks : 2
- Car: VAZ-21103
Topic: Knock in rear suspension
I replaced the rear struts with VAZ 21103. I installed elastomag struts, springs, and SS20 upper rubber bands. I installed everything in the service in April. Since then I have traveled 8000 km. A knocking sound appeared on small bumps in the upper right rear (that's what you hear). I checked everything was tight both at the top and bottom. I tried removing all the junk from the trunk and the knocking still remained. Tell me what else could be the reason for the knocking.
2 Reply from Wolfy36 2013-12-16 16:54:55
- Wolfy36
- New member
- Inactive
- Registration: 2013-12-12
- Messages: 19 Thanks : 5
- Car: VAZ 21120
Re: Knock in rear suspension
The cause of a knock or squeak in the rear suspension may be simple negligence of the craftsmen who installed the protection incorrectly. Very often, an extraneous knock in the rear suspension is nothing more than the knock of a loose muffler. Also check all bushings and fasteners for damage. after 8000 quiet driving it would be a sin to rely on the springs and even more so on the shock absorbers.
3 Reply from kasatik 2014-01-19 11:50:28
- kasatik
- New member
- Inactive
- From: Kharkov
- Registration: 2014-01-19
- Messages: 15 Thanks : 2
- Car: VAZ 21101
Re: Knock in rear suspension
My godfather's rear struts on the 9 were rattling. I told you to check, but no, Vitek changed it not long ago. Well, I went and checked it myself. But the rod on top of it is not screwed in, so it fidgets up and down. Alen, it turns out, held the rod with a key and turned the nut with the other. My rear struts from the Priora knock until they warm up. The front CCs do not knock. Acomi supports.
Diagnostics of suspension guides
Many cars have a similar rear suspension design, which makes diagnostics and dismantling easier. The differences can only be in the principle of fastening and the type of installed parts. During the diagnosis you should:
The threaded connection of the flanges used when attaching the guide elements can also cause a problem. The flanges can be repaired, but it is recommended to install new ones. The check is carried out on an overpass or pit, since problems are determined visually or using force (that is, you need to strongly loosen the guide elements with your hands). This will require good lighting. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out work in the garage.
Brake calipers
In a number of car models equipped with disc brakes, the rear brake calipers come loose or play. This is the most common problem with any budget car. Budget fasteners often lead to parts breaking. Diagnostics of calipers is carried out using the following actions:
- twitching of the caliper with your hands when the wheel is installed - everything needs to be screwed securely;
- removing the wheel and conducting manual diagnostics of all its fastenings, twitching the mechanism with your hands to determine the absence of play;
- if you have experience, disassemble the caliper in order to determine the released parts;
- paying special attention to the quality of tightening of each module and bolt;
- Checking the pad for wear or bending.
Replacement
If a problem is discovered and it becomes necessary to change the rear struts, then you need to carry out a number of operations. To begin, you will need to arm yourself with the following tools:
Dismantling
Special key for disassembling the rack
At this stage, the removal of the rear pillar of the VAZ 2110 ends.
Installation
VAZ 2110 installation of rear struts
In the process of replacing a strut with a new strut, you will need to put on a compression stroke buffer, a special spacer-type bushing, a casing with an upper cover, a shock absorber pad, a support-type washer and a spring. Let's get started:
Recommendations
- Please note that the rear pillar wears out much more actively if the driver carries cargo and a large number of passengers in the car. At the same time, wear increases significantly if a loaded vehicle is driven on a bad road (with a lot of potholes and uneven surfaces) at high speed.
- If you need to change the rear shock absorber 2110, the replacement usually involves installing two new struts at once. It is important to understand which shock absorbers are best installed on the rear axle. Today you can buy gas, oil and gas-oil struts.
- The gas-oil shock absorber is stiffer and noisier, however, a car with such struts holds the road better, handling and stability are improved. For this reason, it is important to select the right replacement struts in advance, taking into account individual preferences, the characteristics of the vehicle’s operation, as well as specific goals and objectives.
- If the rear strut of the VAZ 2110 and/or the spring fails, it is important to purchase only high-quality analogues for replacement. The fact is that cheap solutions can knock immediately after installation, and low-quality shock absorbers and springs often require replacement after 10-15 thousand kilometers.
vote
Article rating
Consequences of ignoring a knock
Any extraneous sounds that appear while driving must be identified without delay, as their presence may indicate a serious malfunction. In this case, let’s look at the consequences of knocking in the rear suspension:
In most cases, a knock in the rear suspension is detected almost immediately, as it occurs while overcoming a bump or pothole on the road. As a rule, suspension elements fail after their service life has expired. If you replace parts in a timely manner, you can avoid road accidents and serious material costs.
Analogs
In addition to domestic parts, you can install front struts from other manufacturers, which will cost much more:
Although installing expensive parts on domestic cars is not always economically justified, some people prefer to spend a large sum once, but then do not have to worry about replacement for several years.
Aston racks are another analogue of domestic production.
VESKO-TRANS.RU
How to replace rear struts on a VAZ 2110
At least some car owners know that replacing the rear struts of a car is the result of constantly driving on a roadway with holes and potholes. The installation of the rear pillar of the VAZ 2110 must be carried out in a qualified manner, with the introduction of the necessary equipment.
Destination rear support machine
Proper handling of these rear suspension components helps maintain vehicle operating comfort while complying with hazardous vehicle driving requirements.
The rear struts are also designed to optimize wear on the vehicle's undercarriage. Together with shock absorbers, they minimize the vertical movement of the vehicle when driving. Indeed, when the wheels are separated from the track, they are disconnected from the braking process and do not depend on the functions of the device or the physical laws of motion. All this significantly affects driving safety.
It is also difficult to ensure comfort for road users without the sound-absorbing properties of the suspension. Any unevenness on the road, sudden braking without compensation of the rear pillar are completely transmitted to the cabin, creating the preconditions for emergency situations.
Source
Anthers
When carrying out repairs, you need to pay attention to the condition of the boot.
A new boot is inexpensive, it is better to replace it in any case.
It is better to replace it immediately, since the rubber is not intended for long-term use. If this element is well preserved, then when replacing it you should try not to damage it.
