How to replace springs on a VAZ 2110

The rear struts of the VAZ-2110 ensure a smooth ride of the car. It is with their help that vibrations are damped when moving on uneven surfaces. If you notice that after hitting a bump or bump, the car body oscillates for a long time, then this clearly indicates that the rear struts need to be replaced. Before starting repairs, you will need to know the design features of the rear suspension, as well as the algorithm for carrying out the work.

Features of the rear pillars

The rear pillars, like the front pillars, absorb mechanical energy that is transferred to the body from rough roads. These elements experience heavy loads when cornering. If the shock absorber struts do not function correctly, both the comfort of the vehicle and its safety will be significantly impaired.

The wear and tear of the entire chassis of the car depends on their condition. Rear struts, or rather shock absorbers, help prevent the entire body from bouncing when hitting a bump. If the car bounces, its wheels will lose contact with the road. As a result of this, braking and acceleration will not be able to occur, the impact of lateral forces is reduced (it will not be possible to turn). This has a significant impact on traffic safety.

CC20

We will talk about these racks separately. This product is made in Samara. It is highly popular among motorists.

The average cost of racks is 4 thousand rubles per set. The uniqueness of this product is that it is available in four versions:

Highway. Has moderate hardness. Provides good wheel grip.
Standard. The most comfortable racks on our list. Quite soft, absorbs unevenness well. But there are questions about maneuverability - the car can skid with active steering.
Optima. They have the best balance between comfort and handling.
Sport. These are gas-filled struts designed for aggressive driving. They provide the best maneuverability, but have limited travel. It's hard to call them comfortable.

Thus, each motorist can choose racks according to his taste and preferences. As for the service life, the SS20 is in no way inferior to imported analogues and can last up to 120 thousand kilometers or more, depending on operating conditions.

Comfort and driving

With the help of the rear struts of the VAZ-2110, driving comfort is improved. Driving becomes much more convenient. If the shock absorbers fail, then when hitting bumps the car will change direction spontaneously.

Disadvantages of using racks with defects:

When braking or accelerating, even a small stone can cause the wheel to bounce and remain off the road surface for some time.
If shock absorbers work poorly, this affects the braking distance - it increases, and significantly. The body shakes much more than usual. It constantly swings, which leads to rapid wear of the chassis elements and tires of the car.

Replacing the rear struts of the VAZ-2110 will solve all these problems. You can do the work yourself if you have all the necessary tools and equipment at hand. But one should not think that this is a very simple job. You need to treat it very carefully, because the slightest mistake can literally cost the lives of the driver and passengers.

Selecting new parts

It is not difficult to purchase a rear shock absorber for a VAZ 2112; there is a fairly large selection at any auto store. The question is what type of rack to choose. There are 2 types of them:

conventional hydraulic (oil);
gas-oil (gas).

Parts of the first type are cheaper and handle road unevenness much more smoothly. When the car is operated without special loads and with a quiet driving style, oil shock-absorbing elements can last quite a long time, provided that you do not come across a fake. Gas-oil shock absorbers are more expensive and behave more rigidly, which improves car handling and is a definite plus for an aggressive driving style. In addition, they last longer when used under increased loads.

To avoid purchasing low-quality products from unknown manufacturers, you should choose products from brands that have proven themselves on the roads of Russia:

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that products of these brands are most often counterfeited in underground workshops. Therefore, it is better to buy parts from official sales representatives of these manufacturers. The same applies to VAZ 2110 springs, which sometimes change due to shrinkage from loads.

If there is an obvious malfunction of one of the shock absorbers, it is recommended to replace both elements.

There is no point in changing them one by one; you will only waste money and time on replacement. Using an old rack together with a new one will cause rapid wear of the latter. A “bad” part will handle irregularities much worse than a new one, which will put a double load on it. An exception is a situation where, for various reasons, a new shock absorber installed recently has failed. Then it makes sense to replace only it.

Replacement frequency

The rear suspension consists of a small number of elements, the central place in it is occupied by struts. Their resource is approximately 3-4 times higher than that of the front ones. The slightest knocks coming from the rear wheels should alert the driver. This is a signal that indicates that it is necessary to inspect and repair one or more components of the vehicle's rear suspension.

Shock absorber struts can last 100,000 km, more or less. It all depends directly on the quality of the installed products, as well as on the driving style of the owner of the car. If you force the car to experience excessive loads, then the life of all suspension elements will be very short.

Factory

As we have already noted, the factory racks installed on the VAZ 2110 cannot be called ideal for this car. In terms of design and technical parameters, they are suitable, but do not provide the desired quality, efficiency and durability.

Factory The main disadvantages of factory suspension elements include:

Insufficient reliability. Many car owners note that after just a few months of use they can create a characteristic knocking sound in the suspension, which indicates the need for repairs;
They often leak, which indicates suspension problems and the need to go to a service station;
When driving at high speeds, the struts exhibit another drawback - they cause strong body roll, which definitely makes high-speed turns difficult to call comfortable.

But which racks are best to install on a VAZ 2110 if the factory ones do not give the desired effect? You should choose manufacturers who have proven themselves in the market and comply with all norms and quality standards.

The most popular brand was SS20. Today SS20 struts fit perfectly on the VAZ 2110. Let’s not hide that these elements are in many ways superior to their domestic, factory-made counterparts.

Symptoms of breakdowns

Before replacing the rear pillar on a VAZ-2110, you need to make sure that it is where all the faults lie. A knock in the suspension may occur for the following reasons:

Damage to the shock absorbers manifests itself when driving on uneven roads. In this case, knocking noises may occur. These elements cannot be repaired; new ones will need to be installed.
If, during a visual inspection, you find that the rubber bushings on the suspension arms are heavily worn, then they need to be replaced. It is quite possible that the VAZ-2110 struts are in good condition.
If the spring sag or is damaged, it must be replaced. This element is made of high-strength metal, but with prolonged use and overload, it can change its length, deform or even break. As a result, the operation of the entire suspension will be incorrect.
The appearance of knocking noises may be caused by the fact that the shock absorber is poorly secured in the upper glass or on the lower bracket. Be sure to inspect the silent block, which is installed on the lower eye. If it is damaged or severely worn, it must be replaced. All threaded connections must be tightened well.
The appearance of a knock may be caused by an overload of the entire rear suspension. Breakdown is possible when the bump stops, which are installed on the shock absorber rods, are destroyed.

When diagnosing, it is necessary to determine which specific element has become unusable. Approximately the same symptoms can occur both when shock absorber struts malfunction and when suspension elements fail.

Causes of front shock absorber malfunctions

When one or both A-pillars fail, the vehicle's behavior changes and the following problems may occur:

Increased vibration of the body, more often on uneven roads and more on the side where the strut is damaged.
You can feel a beating in the steering wheel.
The car leaves the straight path.
When entering a turn, a skid may occur.
The braking distance will be increased.
When driving on an uneven surface, knocking noises will appear in the strut - this will indicate a malfunction of the internal parts of the strut.
The presence of oil traces on the shock absorber will indicate the presence of depressurization of the strut.

The presence of such symptoms will indicate improper operation of any of the elements of the front suspension, and further operation of the vehicle with such defects is undesirable.

Methods for identifying faulty front struts

Of course, the most effective and best way to check the front suspension is to check the car on a diagnostic stand, because this is the only way to most effectively simulate the behavior of the suspension on uneven terrain. A detailed printout will provide the most accurate indication of the condition of the racks.

Results of bench tests of front shock absorber struts

Rocking racks is a myth!

Note! There is a myth among a large number of car enthusiasts that if you rock the car from a certain side and if after 2-3 rocking motions it stops oscillating, then the strut is working properly. Unfortunately, this test is false and misleading, since even with minimally good shock absorbers the car will not sway in free motion. That is why such a test is so popular among most car enthusiasts and increasingly misleads a large number of garage technicians.

Visual inspection

There was clearly something wrong here. And don’t go to a fortune teller!

The most effective way to diagnose a rack is its visual inspection . Since the presence of even the slightest oil leak will indicate its failure. Because the rod works by moving up and down, oil will still leak out of the rod, affecting performance.

A dry strut is also not a guarantee of serviceability, since damage to the strut valves does not lead to oil leakage.

Drawing a conclusion from all of the above, we can confidently say that the best way to diagnose the performance of racks will be its visual and operational diagnostics. So, if there is even the slightest knock during its operation, then you can judge with a high degree of probability that it is malfunctioning. The same applies to the change in the behavior of the car when it began to turn unstably.

The main components of the rear suspension are dozens

On dozens, the rear suspension is dependent and has telescopic shock absorbers in its design, operating in two directions. The springs of the rear struts of the VAZ-2110 are installed between the shock absorber body and the car body. With their help, vibrations that occur when moving on uneven surfaces are dampened. The rear beam is the supporting element of the entire suspension; it consists of the following parts:

Connector.
Longitudinal suspension arms.
Metal brackets with lugs.
Rubber-metal bushings (silent blocks).

Shock absorber struts are installed on the rear beam on both sides. They ensure the mobility of this element when driving on uneven roads.

How to determine the malfunction?

The shock-absorbing unit of the rear beam of the VAZ 2112, although it is distinguished by its simplicity of design, has some “cunning” in terms of detecting malfunctions. Since it does not experience the same loads as the front suspension, the rear shock absorber lasts longer - up to 50 thousand km. The “cunning” of the rear pillar of the VAZ 2110-12 is that there are only 2 clear signs indicating the need to replace the part:

traces of oil flowing down the element body;
a dull knock when driving over bumps or small potholes.

The second sign does not always indicate a breakdown of the VAZ 2110 shock absorbers themselves; the rubber bushing of its lower mount knocks much more often; the issue is resolved by replacing these rubber bands. And only when the struts are too loose, a change in the car’s behavior on the track is felt, which is expressed in vibrations or skidding of the rear end during sharp turns of the steering wheel.

Motorists who constantly operate their cars with a full load or with a trailer are recommended to check the condition of the rear springs and struts after each long trip. An immediate inspection of the unit is also carried out after a strong blow to the shock absorber from a wheel that has fallen into a large hole. If an oil leak appears on the body or the behavior of the car changes dramatically, then most likely the rear shock absorber has become unusable. Too strong a blow often leads to bending of the rod, causing the car to start to pull to the side when driving.

Since the rear of the car does not initially bear much load, you can try to check the struts by rocking. By sharply pressing the corner of the trunk from behind, you should make sure that the shock absorber immediately extinguishes the vibration. If the body swings a second time after pressing, then the element does not cope with its task.

Tools for repairs

If after diagnostics you find that it is necessary to repair elements of the rear pillar, or install a new one, you need to prepare for work. To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

Jack (preferably hydraulic type).
A set of keys. You will need: for “17”, “6”, “19”.
Special key for removing racks. You can use tubular keys for “17” and “6”.
Special puller for tightening springs. Without it, installing the rear shock absorber will be quite difficult.
Electrical tape or thin wire.

A little about the generator and its improvement

The battery must be recharged while the vehicle is moving. At this time, all devices are powered by a generator. The voltage should be within 14 Volts. So, if you have too many electrical appliances and the voltage drops to about 11-12 Volts, then there is one way on how you can increase the power of the device by about 10%. Such a modification of the VAZ-2110 generator involves the installation of one diode. First of all, we need to disconnect the battery terminal, and then disconnect the wire marked “D”. Next, you need to remove the clamps from the back cover of the generator. After that you will see the voltage regulator. We need to thread the wires from the pre-prepared diode through the holes in the generator cover.

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After this we connect the wires. To do this, the “mother” is connected to the PH, and the “father” is connected to the standard wire. After that, we need to close the back cover and screw everything into place. This completes the modification of the VAZ-2110 generator. The voltage should rise to approximately 13 Volts, which is closer to normal. By the way, it is advisable to use a diode with a breakdown of no more than 20 V and a current of 5 Amps. As for the voltage drop, it should be within 0.6-0.7 Volts.

Which stands are best to buy?

On sale you can find several manufacturers who offer various models of racks for domestic cars. Those that are installed on the top ten from the factory are of rather poor quality. Of course, comfort will improve with replacement, but it will not be at a high level. The price of the VAZ-2110 rear pillar (stock) is about 1200 rubles. Higher quality shock absorbers will be more expensive.

On the market you can find racks manufactured by SS20. There are only three modifications for dozens:

Racing - sports elements that have a slightly shorter stem and body length. When installing these struts, the car becomes a little lower, when cornering, roll is reduced and stability improves. Manageability at a high level.
Master - these are elements that facilitate the operation of the car and reduce noise emanating from the road surface.
Queen is a type of rack in which the entire load is evenly distributed and extraneous noise is well damped. The reliability of the suspension elements is much better than that of the factory ones or even the previous two.

It’s up to you to decide which VAZ-2110 rear struts are best to install on your car. Note the SS20 production elements. They work much more efficiently than stock ones, are resistant to high loads, although they are quite expensive.

Varieties of SS20

Usually cars are equipped with standard medium hardness, but some people want more comfortable ones or, on the contrary, harder ones.

The SS20 offers three options.

Racing. A sports modification of racks that have a shortened stem and body. The car is slightly lowered, rolls become softer, and stability is higher. The car feels better in turns, maneuvers well at high speeds, and improves handling quality.
Master. This series of racks is suitable for those who want to reduce noise while increasing flexibility. It is much easier to operate a car with them.
Queen. The load is distributed evenly due to the design of the products. The racks dampen noise and demonstrate high reliability. The warranty period for these racks is 3 years.

Now let's talk a little about cost. We have already determined that SS20 is noticeably better than the factory ones, so it’s worth purchasing them.

But is such a purchase profitable from a financial point of view? Let's try to figure out the prices.

Standard. This model is similar in characteristics to the factory VAZ struts. For a pair you will need to pay 4.7 thousand rubles.
Comfort Optima. Tougher than factory ones, better quality than products from AvtoVAZ. The price is the same - 4.7 thousand rubles.
Highway. If you mostly drive on highways, then this is the option for you. Price - 4.7 thousand rubles.
Sport. Aimed at fans of fast driving, they are distinguished by increased rigidity, but not by price - 4.7 thousand rubles.
Rear pillars with similar characteristics will cost 3.4 thousand rubles.
Front and rear lowered pillars (30-70 millimeters) cost 5.2 and 4.9 thousand rubles, respectively.

Removing the racks

Before removing the rear pillars, you need to completely empty the trunk. Follow these steps:

In the luggage compartment, on the rear arch, there is a small hole with a rubber plug. It contains the rod fastening nut.
Remove the rear straps and brackets that secure the seat. This will greatly facilitate access to the rack mounting location.
Using a special wrench for racks, you need to unscrew the fastening nut.
Use a jack to raise the rear of the car. The jack can only be installed under the body, but not under the rear beam. You need to completely unload the car's suspension so that the spring is free.
Unscrew the nut that secures the lower eye of the rack to the beam.

Only then can the stand be completely removed. This completes the dismantling.

Advantages and disadvantages of MacPherson

First, it’s probably worth talking about what are the advantages of using this type of suspension. The most important thing is the fairly high reliability of the design, as well as its simplicity. One rack has two functions at once. Firstly, it serves as part of the steering. Secondly, it acts as a shock absorber.

The rack has a steering knuckle to which the tie rod joint is attached. The lower arm of the front suspension, which is connected to the wheel hub by means of a ball joint, is located at the bottom, respectively. The upper part is a rod, which is movably fixed in the body using a support bearing. With this mechanism the stand can be rotated. So, we can distinguish several movable hinges in the entire structure:

At the top there is a support bearing.
At the bottom there is a ball joint.
And, of course, the tie rod is about in the middle.

Compared to rear-wheel drive cars, the McPherson type suspension is much simpler. But as far as reliability is concerned, this issue is controversial. Let's now look at the negative properties of this type of suspension scheme.

The front suspension of the VAZ 2110 has its drawbacks. First of all, it is ideal for smooth roads, without holes or bumps; driving on them should be as calm and uniform as possible. The element of the tens suspension is urban mode.

How to install a new rack

Now you need to install a rear pillar on the VAZ-2110. Be sure to install a new shock absorber, spring, bump stop, cushions, and support washer. Secure the cushions to the spring with electrical tape or wire. All products made of rubber must be replaced. Next you need to do the following:

Place the stand assembly in its place and insert the rod into the hole in the glass.
Tighten the shock absorber using the rear beam. To do this, you can use a long crowbar or a jack.
Install the lower shock absorber spring into the bracket on the beam.
Insert the bolt and tighten the nut.
At the top, attach the shock absorber rod mounting nut.

The price of the rear pillar of the VAZ-2110 is about 1000-1200 rubles (stock version). The kit will cost about 2500 rubles. (without pillows, anthers, springs). The work is carried out equally on the left and right sides of the car. Upon completion of the repair, it is necessary to install the wheel, lower the car and check the condition of all threaded connections. It is advisable to tighten the nuts after installing the car on the wheels. It is necessary that the car suspension is under load.

The quality of modern roads leaves much to be desired. It would seem that a modern domestically produced car should be able to overcome such ridiculous turns, bumps, potholes and other shortcomings of Russian roads. But, unfortunately, the cars do not meet the best characteristics. One of the modern problems of the VAZ 2110 car is the front spring, which often breaks due to the poor quality of roads. Replacing the front springs of a VAZ 2110 is a necessity. Replacing springs on a VAZ 2110 can be easily done with your own hands.

Knock or it's time for replacement

VAZ 2110 knocking rear struts

This often happens. The car runs about 30 thousand km and nothing, and then suddenly the wheel bearings start knocking at the rear. So it becomes necessary to replace the rear struts. In fact, the knocking sound of the rear suspension is a kind of signal indicating the need for replacement. At the same time, it is still unknown which part should be replaced. After all, a knock does not necessarily indicate a breakdown of the rear suspension, but can only indicate defects. Therefore, it will be relevant to touch upon the topic of determining the cause experimentally and professionally. Therefore, let’s look at the main causes of knocking from behind, so that you know what’s what:

If the car is moving on an uneven road and a knocking sound is heard, then the cause is most likely faulty shock absorbers that need to be replaced with new ones;
If it is clearly visible that the rubber bushings of the suspension arms are worn out, then the problem is in the suspensions themselves, which need to be replaced;
If the spring has settled, then it also needs to be replaced;
A knock may indicate weak fastening of the shock absorber itself or wear of the rubber bushings of the eyes (all worn elements are replaced with new ones, and the nuts and bolts are properly tightened);
A knock may also appear when the rear suspension is overloaded or due to its breakdown, which is possible due to the destruction of the compression stroke buffer;
Sediment or breakage of one of the suspension springs also requires replacement;
A knock can also occur when the rear axle of the VAZ 2110 moves due to destruction of the suspension arm bushings;
If the knocking comes from the suspension arms, then they simply need to be replaced with new ones;
The knocking can also be determined by unloading the trunk (passengers are not seated behind the car and thus the cause of the knocking is determined, which most likely lies in the shock absorbers or springs).

When replacement is required

The mechanism must be replaced in cases where the spring is damaged. Even the smallest crack or chip can cause the part to perform poorly. There is a possibility that the spring will simply begin to sag. Spring subsidence occurs in the following situations:

At the moment of deterioration in the smoothness of vehicle control.
The car has a visible tilt to one side.
If there is a noticeable increase in height between the front and rear of the vehicle.
Extraneous noise and mechanical damage to the part.

We determine that the element has failed

There are several signs by which a malfunction can be identified:

The body vibrates intensely on the comb on the side of the damaged shock absorber;
There is a beating sensation in the steering wheel;
The braking distance becomes longer;
When turning, the car skids;
Traces of oil leaks;
When driving in a straight line, the car drifts to the side;
There are knocks and extraneous noises in the rack.

Device diagram
If you do not repair the front struts in a timely manner at a service station or with your own hands, this can lead to dire consequences:

The support bearings will be destroyed;
Tires will wear unevenly, jump, and form bumps on the rubber surface;
The wheel bearings will fail;
The braking distance will become longer, which is dangerous on any section of the road;
The brake pads will malfunction and their service life will be significantly reduced.

There are two main ways to check elements for malfunction. One is professional, the other is artisanal, but also quite effective.

Special vibration stand. A car is driven onto it, and the computer calculates the efficiency of the shock absorbers. It should be noted that new racks may show a result of about 75%, but this is quite normal. If the percentage is less than 50, then it’s time to change the part.
Manual rocking. You need to grab the front of the car, its wing, and start swinging. Try to achieve the maximum amplitude that your body weight allows. If anything, ask a friend to help. The point is to suddenly remove your hands after swinging and look at the car. If it immediately returns to its original position and does not fluctuate anymore, then everything is fine. If even a slight vibration is detected, you can assume that it is advisable to replace the racks in the near future.

Replacing springs yourself

Tools

In such cases, it is simply impossible to do without repairing or replacing equipment. You must have the following tools, devices, and parts on hand:

When each of the tools is near the car, you need to start replacing the front spring. This work involves some risk of injury. Such work must be performed with care, attention and compliance with all safety rules. Perhaps some help from an experienced mechanic would be helpful. Personnel can be found at the nearest service stations.

Replacement process

If you finally decide to act on your own, you need to perform several actions:

The front wheel of the car is disassembled from the side where the spring needs to be replaced.
The wheel is removed from the car.
The steering wheel of the car must be turned to the maximum in the opposite direction from the removed wheel.
The cotter pin is removed.
The nut that secures the tie rod end pin to the strut arm is released and removed.
The finger itself is removed.

Note: if a puller is not available, the nut does not need to be removed completely. It is necessary to slightly loosen the fastening and use a hammer to remove the pin.

The front brake hose coupling is removed from the strut holder (see VAZ 2110: replacing the front struts yourself).
The upper support of the guide post has a plug made of rubber. It needs to be removed.
The shock absorber rod nut is unscrewed. Here it is necessary to ensure that the opposite part is clamped, since the nut can rotate.
Before unscrewing the strut mounting bolt, marks must be applied to it and the strut bracket.

Front suspension. Design Features

The front suspension of the VAZ 2110 is independent, telescopic. It is based on hydraulic shock absorber struts and coil springs, as well as lower wishbones with braces and a stabilizer bar.

Telescopic stand

1 – compression valve body; 2 – compression valve discs; 3 – throttle disk of the compression valve; 4 – compression valve plate; 5 – compression valve spring; 6 – compression valve cage; 7 – recoil valve nut; 8 – recoil valve spring; 9 – recoil valve plate; 10 – recoil valve disc; 11 – throttle disk of the recoil valve; 12 – piston; 13 – bypass valve plate; 14 – bypass valve spring; 15 – plunger; 16 – plunger spring; 17 – rod guide bushing with a fluoroplastic layer; 18 – guide bushing cage; 19 – sealing ring of the rack housing; 20 – rod seal; 21 – oil seal cage; 22 – gasket of the rod protective ring; 23 – rod protective ring; 24 – nut of the strut body; 25 – compression buffer support; 26 – rod; 27 – spring cup; 28 – rotary lever; 29 – rod limit sleeve; 30 – rack body; 31 – cylinder; 32 – drain tube

Front suspension assembly

1 – telescopic stand; 2 – nut; 3 – eccentric bolt; 4 – nut; 5 – steering knuckle; 6 – front wheel drive shaft; 7 – protective cover of the hinge; 8 – external shaft joint; 9 – lower lever; 10 – ball joint; 11 – decorative disk (cap) of the wheel; 12 – hub; 13 – brake disc; 14 – protective casing; 15 – rotary lever; 16 – lower support cup; 17 – suspension spring; 18 – protective cover of the telescopic stand; 19 – compression stroke buffer; 20 – upper support cup; 21 – upper support bearing; 22 – upper support of the rack; A – control size

Replacing springs on a VAZ 2110 (rear)

The technology for replacing rear suspension springs involves completely dismantling the struts. However, do not be afraid - there is nothing complicated about it. The first step is to remove the plastic plug on the strut cups and unscrew the top nut on the shock absorber rod. A special wrench will help us with this: having two degrees of freedom, it prevents the rack from turning when trying to unscrew the nut. This key can be freely purchased at any VAZ spare parts store.

Under the nut there will be a large metal washer and a rubber pad. It will be extremely convenient to remove them from the glass using a screwdriver with a magnetic handle. Now it's finally time to use the jack, lifting the rear of the body and tilting the wheel to the side. It will be convenient to loosen its mounting bolts while the VAZ 2110 is still on the ground. It is correct to place the removed wheel under the car body as a jack insurance.

Next we proceed on the following points:

1. Unscrew the nut securing the lower part of the strut to the rear suspension of our car (penetrating lubricant will help you);
2. We pry the shock absorber with a lever, removing it from its seat in the beam, after which it will freely fall to the floor;
3. Don’t forget to remove the special rubber band from the inside of the glass, which is likely to stick to the car body;
4. You can now freely remove the spring from the strut. The replacement is almost complete;
5. You can also visually check the technical condition of the rack and the condition of the anthers.

Please note that there is a special protrusion on the stand cup where the lowermost coil of the spring fits. When installed, it faces the direction of the wheel. It will be convenient to tape the upper rubber gasket to the spring with electrical tape so that during installation its protrusion does not move relative to the coil. Further assembly is performed in reverse order.

Order of Operations

Removing old shock absorbers and installing rear struts of the VAZ 2114 and other models can be done without an inspection hole or overpass - just jack up the car. But before you lift the car, you need to remove the assembly plugs located in the trunk. So:

You need to remove the trunk shelf, bend back the upholstery and use a screwdriver to pull out the plug. The rod nuts are located under them; they need to be unscrewed and the washer and plate removed.

Now you need to jack up the car. This is necessary so that the lower rack lock is accessible. This bolt is most often tight, so it is better to pre-coat it with a special lubricant. If after this you cannot unscrew the fastener, you need to knock it out with a smaller bolt.

Now you can remove the stand, be sure to support it - it may fall. It's easier to do this if you move the end towards the rear of the car

Note! After dismantling the stand, a rubber gasket remains in the glass. It needs to be removed because the material has lost its elasticity

A new spacer must be installed, which is purchased separately from the assembly.

Now you need to remove the spacer sleeve, shock absorber cushion and bushing, remove the cover from the casing, and remove the bump stop from the rod.

You can begin installing the new unit. The rod element must be fully extended. We install the bushing, cover, its cover, and bump stop on the rack. The spacer and spring are assembled after all other parts. On a note! It is advisable to bleed the shock absorbers before assembly. This will increase their functionality and service life. The procedure is performed by turning the device over. This will allow the oil to spread evenly throughout the entire assembly.

Installation is performed in reverse order.

Then all the above operations are repeated on the other side of the machine. Difficulties may arise during assembly:

if the unit does not want to be placed in its normal place, you can use the jack beam; if the old parts have lost their integrity, they need to be replaced, if they are in order, wipe them with kerosene; if the support bearing comes out separately during dismantling, this is normal; to install the spacer without any problems, you need to glue it to the spring with masking tape; Some experts believe that when final tightening the fasteners, you first need to remove the car from the jack.

The sequential replacement of the rear struts of the VAZ 2114 can be seen in this video:

Replacing springs on a VAZ 2110 (front)

In a classic way, we begin the replacement process by loosening the nut that secures the strut in the car's glass. There is no need to unscrew it completely. Jack up the front of the car and remove the wheel. Don’t forget about insuring the jack as in the previous section. Then everything is done simply and point by point:

1. Take penetrating lubricant in your hands and pre-wet the nuts securing the steering tip and the swing arm to the front pillar of the VAZ 2110;
2. Next, armed with one 17 and one 19 wrench, unscrew the above-mentioned nuts;
3. It is convenient to remove the steering end from the ball joint using a special puller. You can, of course, do it the old-fashioned way, with the help of a guide and a hammer. But in the latter case, you should be extremely careful not to damage the tip itself;
4. We knock out the bolts of the swing arm using the adapter. After which you can move the stand and brake disc assembly with the VAZ 2110 caliper to the side;
5. Don't forget to also remove the brake hose from its engagement with the strut;
6. Return to the top of the strut and use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the 3 nuts securing the shock absorber support, and the entire strut structure along with the spring is no longer held in place under the hood of the car. You can immediately begin disassembling the shock-absorbing module.

Disassembly and assembly of the unit

Replacement of the rear pillars of the VAZ 2110 is carried out on any flat area on the street or in the garage; an inspection hole is not needed here. To disassemble the unit, you need to prepare the following tools and devices:

jack;
wooden stand of the required height;
curved spanner wrench size 19 mm for unscrewing the rod;
a set of open-end wrenches of standard sizes;
standard plumbing tools (pliers, hammers, screwdrivers);
wheel key;
aerosol lubricant WD-40;
gloves, rags.

It is better to carry out assembly and disassembly work with gloves to avoid minor injuries when loosening or tightening threaded connections. Replacing the rear struts 2110 begins with disassembling the luggage compartment side of the car. It is necessary to remove the rear seat fasteners and unscrew the seat belts, as well as dismantle all interfering decorative panels. Stuck threaded connections are sprayed with universal lubricant WD-40. The further sequence of work looks like this:

The upper support of the rear pillar is unscrewed. To do this, unscrew the nut using a 19 mm curved spanner wrench, and hold the rod with a special or open-end wrench. In VAZ 2112 cars it is possible to unscrew the nut with a 19 mm open-end wrench.
The wheel bolts are loosened, the car is jacked up and the wheel is removed. Don’t forget to secure the car with available anti-roll bars.
A wooden support is placed under the bottom of the VAZ, and the jack is released and installed under the rear wheel hub.
Using 17 and 19 mm wrenches, the lower support of the rear pillar is unscrewed, the bolt is removed and it is removed together with the spring.

To replace the shock absorber, the unit will have to be completely disassembled. You will need to remove the spring, the upper support washer, the boot with the upper cover and the compression stroke buffer. Then all these parts are rearranged onto the new rack. The rubber spacer also changes regardless of whether it knocks while driving or not.

Reassembly does not cause any difficulties. Only at the beginning you need to show dexterity to bring the rod back into the upper hole. Then the lower rack mount is aligned along the holes by pressing the hub from below with a jack. The bolt is put in place and tightened, after which the rest of the assembly is done.

Sometimes old racks can be restored and can serve as a backup option in case the new ones break down. Repair of the shock absorber is possible if it has not received mechanical damage to the body, the rod is not bent, and very little oil has leaked from it. The movement of the rod must remain free, without jamming, otherwise the shock absorber must be discarded. Remember that restoration rarely gives a good effect; about half of the repaired racks fail quite quickly.

Recommendations for changing front springs

You need to disassemble the front wheel. The side where the spring needs to be replaced is disassembled.
The wheel is removed.
The steering wheel turns in the direction opposite to the removed wheel.
The cotter pin is removed.
The nut connecting the steering rod and the strut is unscrewed.
The finger is being removed. For this type of work you need a puller. If it is missing, there is no need to completely remove the nut. It is enough to make the fastening weaker and remove the finger with light blows of a hammer.
The brake hose coupling is removed.
The upper part of the guide post rests on a rubber plug. It must be replaced.
The shock absorber rod mount is unscrewed. To prevent the nut from turning, you need to firmly clamp the opposite part.

Before releasing the bolt holding the strut, you need to mark the mounting bracket and the bolt itself.
The nut tightening the upper bolt is unscrewed. There should be no scrolling. If necessary, it must be firmly secured.
The washer is removed. Using a drift, the bolt is released. The lower bolt is removed using a similar method.
The steering wheel tip is released. There should be no sagging of the brake hose. Its tense position is not allowed.
The upper support is secured with three nuts. Each one needs to be unscrewed with a 13 key.
The stand is removed, the ties are installed at the same level on the springs. Typically five turns are attached.
The tie screws are turned until the spring is completely free. The spring is removed.

Checking the condition of the front suspension

During each maintenance, as well as during repairs, you should always check the condition of the protective covers of the suspension ball joints, paying special attention to the absence of mechanical damage to the covers. Find out if there are any cracks or traces of contact with road obstacles or the body on the suspension parts, deformations of the transverse arms, braces, stabilizer bar and its struts and parts of the front body in the places where the suspension units and parts are attached

Find out if there are any cracks or traces of contact with road obstacles or the body on the suspension parts, deformations of the transverse arms, braces, stabilizer bar and its struts and body front parts in the places where the suspension units and parts are attached.

Deformation of suspension parts and, above all, braces and front body parts disrupts the wheel alignment angles and makes it impossible to adjust them.

Check the condition of the rubber-metal joints, rubber cushions, suspension ball joints, as well as the condition of the upper supports of the telescopic suspension struts.

Rubber-metal hinges, rubber cushions and upper supports of telescopic racks must be replaced in case of ruptures and one-sided “bulging” of rubber and when their end surfaces are cut.

To check the condition of the suspension ball joint, remove the wheel and measure the distance between the lower arm 23 (see Fig. 1) and the protective casing 4 in zone “B”. If this distance changes by more than 0.8 mm when the suspension is rocked, replace the ball joint.

Problems when paying with bank cards

Sometimes difficulties may arise when paying with Visa/MasterCard bank cards. The most common of them:

There is a restriction on the card for paying for online purchases
A plastic card is not intended for making payments online.
The plastic card is not activated for making payments online.
There are not enough funds on the plastic card.

In order to solve these problems, you need to call or write to the technical support of the bank where you are served. Bank specialists will help you resolve them and make payments.

That's basically it. The entire process of paying for a book in PDF format on car repair on our website takes 1-2 minutes.

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Product added to bookmarks!

Description
Reviews

Springs SS20 for VAZ suspension.

We carry out a selective selection of pairs (within a class) with the most identical characteristics, which ensures the best contact of the car with the road surface, stability, controllability, reliability and comfort.

APPLICABILITY: VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 with a 16-valve engine.

Advantages of VAZ suspension springs from SS20:

Spring class value.

") or risks ("Moskvich"). As in any production, control of springs (sorting by class) is accompanied by various tolerances and these tolerances are quite “wide”, i.e. the height of two springs of the same class (under control load) may differ by 16 mm, which means the body is skewed.

Front wheel hub

This part of the front suspension of the VAZ-2110 is located on the steering knuckle, connected to the strut and ball joint. It contains a cylindrical bearing in which the CV joint tip rotates. Using two bolts located on the steering knuckle, the wheel camber angle is adjusted.

When making repairs, be sure to remember how these elements were installed relative to each other. Otherwise, you risk accelerating the wear of your car's tires. At the bottom of the fist there is a hole for the ball joint pin. The hub itself has four threaded holes for fastening the wheel and two for screwing in the guide pins.

Selection of springs and gas-filled shock absorbers

Rice. 1

The main requirements for the shock absorbers of the front and rear suspensions are as follows: ensuring a smooth ride, stability and controllability of the car, reducing body roll during sudden braking, reducing the possibility of the wheel lifting off the road.

As a rule, when tuning, factory hydraulic telescopic shock absorbers are replaced with gas-filled ones - single-tube or double-tube. This allows you to raise the car slightly (increase ground clearance). The vehicle's handling and stability will also improve, since on uneven surfaces, stiffer shock absorbers allow the wheels to maintain contact with the road longer. The downside of such modifications to the car is a slight deterioration in the smoothness of the ride.

When replacing shock absorbers, it is necessary to comply with the characteristics and overall mounting dimensions of the factory shock absorbers and those installed when replacing them. The suitability of shock absorbers is determined using interchangeability tables compiled by manufacturers. The main dimensions of shock absorbers are shown in Fig. 1 and in the table.

Basic parameters of shock absorbers

Suspension springs take the weight of the car and soften the dynamic impacts transmitted to the body from the road surface when driving.

Spring characteristics

2 — nonlinear (progressive)

P is the load on the spring;

f - spring deformation

Table 2. Marking of shock absorbers

The coils of the spring with a linear characteristic are compressed evenly, completely closing at maximum load.

There are no contact stresses; the spring, all other things being equal (steel grade, deformation, etc.), lasts longer.

The suspensions of cars of the “tenth” family use cylindrical compression springs with a linear characteristic, wound from a rod of circular cross-section, constant in length.

It is better to purchase springs from those recommended by the car plant, from a manufacturer with a good reputation.

It is impossible to accurately determine the spring parameters when purchasing. All checks are approximate, but in many cases they will help to avoid counterfeits.

Springs in stores are often sold without packaging. However, its presence and information about the manufacturer indirectly indicate its reliability.

Markings on the spring (trademark of the manufacturer, month and year of manufacture, catalog number), contrary to OST, are applied extremely rarely by Russian manufacturers. But there is almost always a mark about sorting into groups (classes), and it must be the same on both springs purchased. If the groups (classes) are not marked or their markings do not correspond to the data in the table below, it is better to refrain from purchasing.

The quality of the surface of the rod, which affects the service life of the spring, is checked visually in factories (sometimes with a magnifying glass with a fivefold magnification) before painting. Therefore, minor defects will not be visible in the store. But obvious ones (large scratches, cracks, cavities) are unacceptable. The mark from the clamp (a dent similar to a bald spot) at the end of one of the end turns is not terrible.

The total number of turns of the spring is easy to count. The permissible deviation according to OST is ±0.125 turns (or ±45°), unless otherwise indicated in the table.

Description

Spring class value

Standard test method: after manufacturing, the spring is compressed to a control height, determining the load required for this. According to it, springs are sorted into classes, which are marked on the coils with paint of different colors (VAZ) or marks (Moskvich). As in any production, control of springs (sorting by class) is accompanied by various tolerances and these tolerances are quite “wide”, i.e. the height of two springs of the same class (under control load) may differ by 16 mm, which means the body is skewed.

The height of the body on the right and left with springs of the same class installed in the car suspension should not differ by more than 4 mm. Studies of springs from various manufacturers have revealed a number of significant shortcomings.

Advantages of SS20 springs

NPP Sistema Technologies LLC carries out a selective selection of pairs (within a class) with the most identical characteristics, which ensures the best contact of the car with the road surface, stability, controllability, reliability and comfort.

NPP Sistema Technologies LLC carries out 100% quality control, the geometry of springs, support and working coils, conducts life tests, so SS20 springs remain operational for at least 5 years.

SS20 springs have increased resistance of the paintwork to abrasion, chips and scratches, which is very important, since the springs operate in fairly aggressive conditions (water, sand, crushed stone, salt from the road surface). Special spring steel (60S2G), from which really high-quality springs are made, contains a large amount of carbon, i.e. any scratch will lead to rapid oxidation (rust), which will negatively affect the resource.

Springs must be replaced in pairs, even if only one spring is defective. It is allowed to install springs of the same type with the same characteristics on one axle. SS20 springs are installed instead of standard ones and do not require modification of other suspension parts.

Springs are replaced when one of them breaks or excessively settles, or when they all “sag” during operation. The defect of one spring can be easily determined by the obvious distortion of the body, and it is necessary to take into account the condition of the supports, silent blocks, and tires. Frequent activation of the suspension up to the travel limiters (“breakdowns”) is also a sign of “sagging” springs.

Checking the validity of springs

install new springs;
after a run of 2 thousand kilometers, measure the vertical distance from the wheel axis to the wing;
If this distance decreases during operation by more than 20%, the spring must be replaced.

Measurements should be carried out on a flat, horizontal area, taking into account the condition of the dampers of the supports and silent blocks.

Marking

Front springs SS20

Rear springs SS20

SS20 springs do not require any modifications to other suspension parts and are installed instead of standard ones.

We recommend using springs using a protective polyurethane braid. The braid will protect the spring coils from impact and destruction, eliminate knocking and increase the service life of the suspension springs.

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When do you need to change suspension springs?

If the suspension spring is rusty.
If you can see with the naked eye that the front or rear of the car is lower than the other, then it is necessary to replace the springs on the side that has sagged more.
If the distances from the center of the wheel to the wheel arch are different on the left and right sides of the car, this is a defect in the suspension spring.
In case the suspension spring is broken.

Suspension springs are not changed often (once every 100 thousand km), but you should not forget about them either; sometimes carry out a visual inspection of the car.

It is better to change the springs in pairs on the same axis and simultaneously with the shock absorbers (replacing shock absorbers involves removing the springs). If a new spring is installed on one of the axles of the car, and an already used one on the other, then the driving performance of the car may deteriorate sharply (it will become difficult to “hold the road” and “float” along the highway).

Which suspension springs to buy? The difference between reinforced suspension springs is the vehicle load. That is, the car will sag less than with conventional springs. The downside of reinforced suspension springs is that when the car is unloaded, then it starts to “goat” (jump on bumps). Sports suspension springs are for those who want increased rigidity and do not think about comfort. The stiffness of the suspension springs is an individual choice for everyone.