Manual transmission - simple design, reliable in operation, economical in maintenance and repair. In addition, the list of advantages of manual transmissions can be supplemented by a relatively low cost compared to analogues, as well as maintainability: almost any problem can be fixed either independently or with the help of specialists, without making a complete replacement.
All of the above advantages begin to fade as soon as an incomprehensible hum, howl, or creaking appears in the gearbox. It’s immediately worth noting that extraneous noise in a manual transmission is a common phenomenon. It affects not only representatives of the domestic automobile industry, but also foreign cars completely assembled abroad.
When assembled well, any manual transmission should operate smoothly without creating noise. If a squeak or hum appears, then you need to look for the cause in a small, or maybe serious, problem with the system. There is no point in postponing diagnostics and repairs, since a manual transmission is one of the main components and assemblies of a modern car.
Get rid of the noise from Suprotek manual transmission
Additive for manual transmission (DSG) "Suprotek manual transmission"
Restores gears and synchronizer couplings in mechanical and robotic transmissions. Eliminates hum and vibration, facilitates gear shifting, and reduces fuel consumption.
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Feedback about use:
Boris, Pushkino Renault Sandero Stepway
I have been using Suprotec for a long time and am very pleased. Until recently, I treated my first Renault Logan 2013 with Suprotek. Now I continue this on the new Renault Sandero car. The result is obvious, the gearbox works like a clock, the shifts are smooth and the hum has practically disappeared. I recommend to all. I wish good luck to the developers and strengthen control so that there is no counterfeit. That's why I try to buy only from the developer.
The first gear is buzzing - causes, consequences
The gearbox is humming , first gear - congratulations, your case is 80% of manual transmission breakdowns. The first is the most working gear. We start from here; here is the maximum load, since it is necessary to move a car from the zero mark, which when loaded can weigh more than one and a half tons. The load on gears and teeth is enormous. In addition, the winter factor is added, because central Russia means almost five months of negative temperatures, when transmission oil thickens significantly. The transmission hums for two main reasons:
- Insufficient oil level in the gearbox. Accordingly, semi-dry or dry friction;
- The first gear bearing begins to deteriorate.
It is worth noting that in 5% of cases this may be due to a design feature, mainly on Russian cars. The transmission may hum when leaving the conveyor. Moreover, after a run of 15–25,000 km, the bearing will look and feel almost the same as new. But at the same time, the gearbox hums boringly at first speed.
Rumble when accelerating Priora 16 valves
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I answer everyone at once: Lyokha-09i
As far as I understand, the frequency of rotation of the generator bearing does not depend on the speed of the car, only on the engine speed, and my sound is clearly not related to the speed.
Span1el
Gas pump?
Explain, please, what could be howling there? Your option is the most interesting because... The appearance of the howling exactly coincided with the replacement of the fuel pump
(I have a carb car, I just recently changed the fuel pump), but I did not connect the howling with the fuel pump, I have never encountered this before, this is my third time replacing the fuel pump, this is the first time such a sound.
rg-45
,
MEKHALYCH
I can imagine the whine of the hub, it was at the rear, this sound is much higher in tone, and besides, it does not become louder with increasing speed, it simply merges from cyclic to monotonous.
Gasoline pump? Explain, please, what could be howling there? Your option is the most interesting because... The appearance of the howling exactly coincided with the replacement of the fuel pump (I have a carb car, I just recently changed the fuel pump), but I did not connect the howling with the fuel pump, I have never encountered this before, this is my third time replacing the fuel pump, this is the first time such a sound.
Then my option may be out of the question. I have an engineer, and somehow the fuel pump howled (cured by replacing the mesh). So when I say the word I howl
this is such an instant association))))
Bearing in gearbox. Try pressing the clutch while driving, if the sound disappears, it’s definitely it.
It obviously depends on the load; on an empty car you can hear it at speeds from 60 mph, on a loaded car it can be heard from 30 mph.
What else can rotate in conjunction with the speed of the car? Speedometer cable, speedometer gears themselves?
[quote=”bo1t”]I started getting a hum after replacing the left wheel bearing (there was some play, but no hum). After that, almost immediately the bearing was replaced again, but the hum remained. Over time, for another reason, I replaced both CV joints on the left side - the hum remained. It hums under load (at least with the front wheels hanging out it was not audible from the outside), it does not depend on the speed or gear, only on the speed: up to 60 km/h it is almost inaudible; from 60 to 70 km/h and from 90 to 110 km/h it howls so that your ears really pop, as if a heavy bomber is taking off, and a slight tremor is transmitted to the steering wheel and pedals; at other speeds it's tolerable, but still annoying. On winter tires, the “resonant” speeds were different (less).
Maybe the rear one is noisy? I had the same thing - it sounded like I was about to take off. I thought it was the front one, I changed it and it still buzzes. Then I hung up the rear wheel - there was play and crunching. Replaced it complete with hub (780 rubles).
I passed by here. Don't kick too hard. author, your tension roller is howling 100%
It says “in motion.” The roller will howl even when the car is running.
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VAZ gearbox humming - service or self-treatment?
Why does the VAZ gearbox hum after a mileage of 70–100,000 km? First of all, this is due to the fact that some of the parts have already completely exhausted their service life. For example, the release bearing must be completely replaced. In addition, a hum in a VAZ gearbox may have the following causes:
- The box was operated with gross violations;
- During the next shift, low-quality gear oil or counterfeit oil was poured in, which did not meet the established standards and was not included in the list by the manufacturer;
- During minor repairs of the gearbox, low-quality components were used;
- Technical work or scheduled maintenance was carried out by unqualified personnel or independently, taking into account gross violations.
First of all, high-quality diagnostics will help eliminate all the above reasons and get rid of extraneous gearbox noise. Only she will be able to reveal the truth, find the faulty part, and allow for a truly complete repair.
Rumble when accelerating Priora 16 valves
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Is the sound of the car in the video normal?
- No, it shouldn't be like that [ 6 ] 46%
- Yes, I also have [ 2 ] 15%
- I don’t hear anything other than normal engine operation [ 5 ] 38%
Total votes: 13
At the moment, the mileage of my “Praera” is 1200 km; during this time nothing has burned out or fallen off. But there’s nothing to praise her for
At about 300 km, an incomprehensible rattling sound appeared when the clutch was released; if the pedal was pressed all the way, the sound disappeared. They made a mistake about the release bearing... the first serviceman went to the warranty and even heard something and said we’ll change it, the second one, who was more important, came out, listened and said that everything was ok! Drive on, the car works normally, you didn’t buy a Mercedes. I’m driving around... and by about 700 km the sound has completely disappeared, although now it can occasionally be heard at idle, it can be treated by pressing and releasing the clutch pedal. I seemed to have come to terms with this, but instead another problem came - an incomprehensible hum in the cabin, the strongest sound occurs at 1500 rpm, either in neutral with the clutch depressed or at speed. With this matter, I again turned to the guarantee, where I was safely sent to continue riding, because “that’s how the box works!” and that's okay! But what does the box have to do with it if the car is stationary and the clutch is depressed, but the sound is as it was. The sound is really annoying, it’s not a whim or a quibble, after 50 km of continuous travel, what remains in my head is this ooooooooooooooooooooooo…. It just became difficult to drive. Moreover, if earlier the sound was only at revs, now it began to be heard at idle. I decided to go to an independent station, a guy came out with a device like a doctor’s and listened to everything carefully, they thought it was the pump or the rollers, but he said that they were fine, and something was coming from the generator. He also said that maybe the sound is coming from the catalyst, but in general he did not give a conclusion. But, of course, I am grateful to him for the consultation) he told me a lot of new things about the warranty, because I recently quit there myself.
I would like to consult with Prior owners: is this a normal sound when the car is running? Here is a video from the recorder while driving, just need to turn up the sound, it turned out weak in the recording.
Can anyone give advice on how to get rid of it? Lubricate something? Spray some WD somewhere...?
I'm thinking of trying to loosen the belt on the generator to let it work without it... but is it possible to do this? There is also power steering installed, I think there is only one belt, in short, I don’t know what to do with it, it’s just frustration.
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Work transmissions are buzzing - what to do, reasons, analysis of the solution
Other working gears, unlike the first one, must be disassembled in descending order. For example, if the 5th gear is humming, then the problem is the oil level. Fifth gear is physically located above all the others, so if you haven’t added 100-200 ml to the gearbox, then it will be the one that suffers first. Dry or semi-dry gears wear out faster, thereby producing this dull and sometimes squeaking noise.
4th gear is humming - here you need to consider two options. If your car has not even covered 5,000 km yet, then you should just change the oil. Basically, lapping oil, according to many car service experts, does more harm than good. Secondly, the problem may be in the original quality of the factory bearings. Under warranty they should simply be replaced. In 95% of cases, these two actions are enough for the noise in fourth gear to completely disappear.
3rd gear is humming - first check the input shaft bearing. If the machine is under warranty, then it is better to replace this unit. Under no circumstances should you solve the problem yourself unless you are truly an expert in this field.
The second gear is humming - this is most likely a local problem, in the contact patch on the second speed gear on the secondary or input shaft. This statement can be made with a 99% probability if there is no hum, noise or whistle in other gears. The simplest solution is to replace the second gear gears. In addition, it is worth checking the oil level and its quality.
Reverse gear hums - this noise should not be confused with the standard whining or whining when moving in reverse. It's all about the design feature. The gears and teeth of the forward gears are located at an angle, which allows you to move almost silently. The gears and teeth of the reverse gear are located strictly vertically. This is why a peculiar whining or whining sound occurs when reversing. This is a feature of almost any car. Therefore, there is no need to panic and look for the cause of the breakdown in this case.
Box howling, how to reduce? BOMB!
In this BZ we will talk about what gives me the most headaches in the Prior, this is a box that howls and greatly spoils the comfort in the car. You start the car, depress the clutch, engage first gear, and now the Priora or Vesta turns into a UAZ or a trolleybus. Of course, in the same Vesta, she howls quieter, because... in the West the Shumka is 2 times better than in the Priors and Kalinas, Grants. For those who think that this is not so, take it for a test drive or at least watch a video on the Internet. There is a person on YouTube, he has such a section like silent test drive, someone criticizes, someone likes it, I personally like it, you can listen to the car without unnecessary chatter. I’ll make your search easier, all you have to do is fast forward to the trip. Here's Vesta Cross on mechanics
Transmission oil Suprotek Atomium - a universal soldier in manual transmission
As discussed above, half of the problems with gearbox noise and hum are associated with low-quality transmission oil or insufficient filling. For vehicles with a manual transmission, it is recommended to use Suprotek Atomium transmission oil on a fully synthetic basis. This allows you to achieve stable operating properties throughout the entire service life. The peculiarity of this transmission oil is that it practically does not break down when heated, does not oxidize, does not burn at all and does not evaporate. In addition, the mineral impurities included in the composition absolutely do not enter into chemical reactions with wear products, fuel or other additives.
Synthetic gear oil
Synthetic gear oil with viscosity class 75W-90. Buy oil for manual transmission gearbox with a manufacturer's warranty.
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The use of gear oil 75W-90 SUPROTEC ATOMIUM gives your gearbox the following properties:
- Protection against wear and corrosion;
- Increased resistance to oxidation;
- Stable lubricity even at high temperatures and intensive use;
- Required viscosity at low temperatures, allowing for smooth gear changes;
Synthetic oil is completely safe for oil seals, which also significantly increases their service life.
Rumble when accelerating Priora 16 valves
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Let me join you. I have the SAME story now. The sound, I would say, is “motorcycle”
