How to eliminate knocking and creaking in the Lada Vesta suspension

Something is knocking from behind. It's knocking. On every small bump, tap repeatedly. I've been following a lot of logbooks and figured it was the shock absorber mounts. This means I need to look for a new material for me, paronite, and cut gaskets from it.

And now I have already prepared the gaskets. I really didn’t want to unscrew the supports, because... everything in the arches is covered with liquid fender liners. Then I remembered another version of the knocking. I have a lot of scrub packed in the niche at the back and maybe it is knocking.

It was decided to use the best tool for diagnosing extraneous sounds: the ear of my best friend. So, we take out the whole scrub, fold down part of the back of the rear seat, put our best friend’s head in the trunk and... forward over the bumps! The conclusion was immediately drawn: it was not the scrub, the trunk was empty, the knock remained. Suddenly, the knocking disappeared, and a cry was heard from the trunk: is it knocking? No, it doesn't knock! What's the matter?

If you press down on the trunk lid from the inside, the knocking noise disappears! Now someone will say: you just needed to adjust the rubber feet on the edges of the trunk lid, this has already been said more than once. I heard about this! And before, I did everything with them: I twisted them all the way, I twisted them to the maximum, I removed them completely. The knocking did not go away.

Let's pay attention to the trunk lock hinge; as it turns out, it is also adjustable. We take a 13 key, loosen two bolts and the loop begins to move up/down.

It took me at least five tries to get the loop and rubber feet adjusted. There is no knock. Hooray! Now again: it was a knock that occurred on small irregularities. Such an annoying knock. Now I hear completely muffled sounds from behind only in medium and large holes/potholes. I call them: sounds of suspension operation. I think this is normal. The music is on but there are no sounds. So before you shim the mounts, check the trunk.

BONUS: If you suddenly find yourself locked in the trunk of a Lada Vesta, don’t despair! It turns out that the trunk can be opened from the inside! On the back of the lock there is a lever that glows in the dark; if you press it, the trunk lid will open!

Despite the fact that a modern car is not only a high-tech vehicle and is manufactured to the most advanced standards. Even they have problems. These faults can manifest themselves as a knocking sound in the front suspension of the Lada Vesta.

Although the suspension turned out to be successful, malfunctions periodically arise, which the manufacturer analyzes and makes recommendations for eliminating squeaks in the Lada Vesta. They may appear as extraneous sounds or knocks.

Defects of Lada

Lada Vesta has recently rolled off the assembly line and not all warranty workshops have experience in solving problems on how to eliminate knocking noises that occur in the suspension. The manufacturer constantly maintains contact with the service station and makes changes to the design. Let's consider possible malfunctions and methods for eliminating them in the front suspension of the Lada.

Car enthusiasts may be disappointed by a new car almost immediately. An unpleasant creaking and knocking sound appears when passing speed bumps. Upon analysis, it turned out that the problem was in the stabilizer bar bushings.

It is not recommended to lubricate them with grease; they will stop squeaking, but for a very short period of time, so they only need to be changed. They can be replaced with polyurethane ones from Niva Chevrolet. The bushing has catalog number 17012680. After replacement, the squeaking sound disappears.

You should know that these are not all problems; a characteristic knocking sound may occur from the front right.

This is typical when there is increased play in the right ball joint. Replacement is carried out together with the suspension arms assemblies. AvtoVAZ supplies them complete with a ball joint.

Front suspension of the Lada Vesta The main defects that occur in the front part of the Vesta car, which may cause the car to creak or rattle:

• Grinding noise in the anti-roll bar;
• The right ball joint is faulty, it starts knocking;
• The stabilizer links begin to rattle.

It is recommended that all these defects be repaired at AvtoVAZ dealerships.

When driving on an uneven road, you hear a dull knock on small bumps or a sound reminiscent of rubber friction. This problem can be eliminated by lubricating the Vesta muffler mounting with grease. Vesta's front suspension creaking may be due to worn struts.

To eliminate the defect, you just need to replace them with new ones, the problems with the suspension will be solved.

Solution options

In fact, there are several of them.

Contacting the dealership

In the event of a visit to the dealer, there is, as a rule, no clear solution to the issue of knocking from under the hood of the Lada Vesta. It all depends on the specific salon. Some centers simply refuse to replace them, citing the fact that this is not a warranty case. Others sent information about the defect directly to AvtoVAZ, but this is a rather lengthy procedure, and therefore not everyone agrees to wait that long. And the answer is not always positive.

Many dealers refuse to replace the airbag under warranty.

But even if the dealer agrees to make a replacement, things don’t always go smoothly. The fact is that often a part is replaced with a similar one, although managers in the salon assure that it is already from a different batch. The result is the same - literally after a few thousand kilometers the sound returns.

However, some owners note that they had reinforced supports installed, after which the problem disappeared.

Independent actions

Do-it-yourself Lada Vesta engine mount replacement

Some car owners who have encountered a knocking noise from under the hood of their Lada Vesta decide to replace the support themselves, so as not to waste time traveling to the dealer and waiting for AvtoVAZ’s decision.

Sometimes you have to change the support yourself

The process itself is not too complicated and we will look at it in a separate article. However, in this case it all depends on the part purchased.

Sometimes the source of knocking under the hood of a Lada Vesta is not the support itself, but the bolt that secures it. Moreover, according to some owners, if you simply tighten it, the knock will soon be heard again. In this case, you have to add a grower.

Using Lubricant

As practice and numerous attempts to solve the problem have shown, getting rid of the knocking noise under the hood of the Lada Vesta is quite simple. It is necessary to lubricate the support itself with silicone grease - directly in those areas where the rubber of the support comes into contact with the metal. Some people use WD-40 liquid for this, but it is not recommended to use it, as it washes out too quickly - it lasts literally for a day.

After this manipulation, the knocking stops, which is recorded on video.

Problems with noise and squeaking from the rear of the car

Creaking from the rear of the car Malfunctions can also manifest themselves as a knocking sound in the rear suspension when driving over uneven surfaces or a creaking noise from the rear.
All these sounds signal a problem that needs to be solved. In order to remove it, as recommended by the factory, it is necessary to cut out the gasket and install it on the upper shock absorber support. This will eliminate knocking in the Lada Vesta suspension. Poorly spun wheels can crunch and squeak. This often occurs on other car models and is caused by the car owner’s carelessness when changing wheels. It is urgent to stop and tighten the wheels.

Poorly packed items in the trunk of a car can make knocking and crunching noises. Before trying to eliminate suspension squeaks, you should empty the trunk of all unnecessary things and drive the car.

If there are no extraneous sounds, then the issue is resolved. Sources of extraneous noise from behind can also be minor problems, but to eliminate them you need to know them:

1. The handbrake cable is not secured, just tighten the tie;
2. The trunk lid dampers may make different sounds; they should be lubricated with silicone grease;
3. With increased play, the trunk lid begins to rattle; lubricate and eliminate the play;
4. The locks of the rear seat back may squeak, just lubricate and wrap a little electrical tape;
5. Things are poorly packed in the trunk.

What creaks and knocks in the cabin

At the back, the rear shelf creaked where it touched the glass.

The plastic trim of the triangular window also creaked - I simply sealed all the fastening points. When I bought the Lada Vesta in 2016, I read a bunch of reviews about the first series of cars. There have been complaints about the seat belt retractors rattling in the rear and front. The owners removed the rear shelf, the plastic trim on the front, tightened it, and inserted additional washers.

I avoided this flaw, but it cannot be ruled out even on new machines. Handles and door cards may creak in front. There may also be squeaks behind the instrument panel. There may also be noise behind the multimedia system. Also, the glove compartment lid sometimes knocks, or the light switch limit switch is not pressed all the way.

There was an adhesive seal there, but it came off. The glove compartment body creaked, I glued it. The sun visors may rattle on uneven surfaces. The passenger one has not yet been replaced under warranty due to knocking on the trim. The central pad on the steering wheel also creaked. It was glued by the personal manager himself on his initiative. Now the steering wheel is new, replaced under warranty due to wear on the lower insert. There are no extraneous noises now.

Recommendations from repairmen

Reliability and long service life of the suspension are among the priority characteristics of the car. Even at the design stage, engineers set the task of developing a suspension that would be maximally adapted for domestic roads.

The result turned out well; the design even caused delight and surprise among some car enthusiasts. The average resource of suspension elements exceeds 100,000 km. Despite a number of positive aspects, there is always a fly in the ointment.

Knocks and noises in the front suspension of Lada Vesta

1. Many car enthusiasts note the appearance of a squeaking sound in the front axle area immediately after purchasing a car from a dealership. Driving through speed bumps turns into real hard labor. The culprit is the rubber bushings on the stabilizer bar.

Service station technicians do not recommend lubricating sealing products with grease or transmission oil. The creaking will go away, but for a short time, then it will resume again. To get rid of annoying squeaking, use polyurethane stabilizer bushings from Chevrolet Niva. (Cat. Art. 17012680).

1. The play of the tip in the ball joint can also cause knocking. According to the regulations, replacement is carried out complete with suspension arms.
2. Often inexperienced drivers confuse the creaking of suspension elements with a dull knock in the exhaust system area. The muffler mount is another defect from AvtoVAZ. The rubber retainer must be lubricated with silicone grease. The unpleasant sound will go away for a long time.

1. The front suspension is knocking or rattling - contact a service station for help. Specialists identify the source of the breakdown with high accuracy. Self-diagnosis does not always bring the desired result due to the lack of special equipment.
2. Do not forget that play in the chassis of the car can also be perceived as a malfunction in the suspension. Carry out diagnostics carefully and take a comprehensive approach to identifying the breakdown.

Self-diagnosis of problems

If there is a knocking sound in the steering wheel or the Vesta suspension rattles, you should immediately contact the dealership.

If this is not possible, you can diagnose and identify problems yourself. To do this, just hang up the Lada wheels and do the following work:

• Let's rock the wheels in different planes; if play is felt when the brake pedal is released, this indicates that the hub bearing has failed;
• If there is a problem with the suspension, play is felt regardless of whether the brake pedal is pressed or released;
• If the ball joint is defective or the strut is poorly secured, play is felt in the vertical plane;
• Failed tie rod ends are accompanied by play in the horizontal plane.

Thus, it becomes clear why the front suspension of the Lada Vesta creaks. It is not recommended to drive with such defects; if they are detected, you must contact a service station. And at the dealership they will conduct a full diagnostic of the chassis and not only give recommendations on how to eliminate the crunching sound in the front suspension, but will also carry out the repair work in a qualified manner.

If you don't like the way your vehicle drives over obstacles after a while, or turns into turns less smoothly. First, carry out diagnostics to eliminate other “suspects” and come to the technical center with a clear task for specialists:

• Release the brake pedal. Take the wheel with both hands by the opposite parts and rock it. If a pronounced play is noticeable, this may mean that the problem is in the hub bearing - it must guide the wheel correctly, strictly in one plane; if it is neglected, it can “go figure eight”.
• If the wheel play does not occur due to the hub, then the fault is in the chassis. In this case, play appears even when the brake pedal is pressed.
• If the car “wobbles” in a vertical plane, the stabilizer link is poorly secured or the ball joint is worn out.
• If the car wobbles “horizontally” (push it into the front fender, after tightening the handbrake), it may be that the rod ends have worn out and become unusable.

Knocks in the rear suspension of Lada Vesta

In the process of identifying a malfunction, distinguish between knocking (dull) and squeaking, rubber friction. One of the weak points of the rear suspension is the upper shock absorber mount. There is a gap between the mount and the body, as a result of which on uneven surfaces the rod hits the metal surface. The defect is typical for all Lada Vesta models, this is the factory design.

To eliminate knocking, place a rubber or asbestos gasket between the upper support and the body mount.

The following can also produce crunching noise:

• poorly tightened discs that rattle at speed;
• equipment, cargo, suitcase with tools in the trunk;
• metal cable of the parking brake lever;
• trunk lid dampers;
• locks of the rear sofa, seat backs.

Things in the trunk

Many people remember that in the first year of sales, the plant provided a personal manager for 6 months. You could call him, complain, say whatever you wanted. After the purchase, when I started driving, there was a creaking of the bushings, and some kind of knocking from the rear. During the reception, together with the manager, we looked for the cause of the noise. They told me that there might be a bucket in the trunk. To this I thought that the bucket was just the machine itself.

Of course, there may be some truth in this. Foreign objects may dangle and rattle in the trunk. You also need to check the security of the spare wheel. The trunk lid itself can also knock.

In some cars, its lock does not press tightly onto the bracket. I first wrapped the area shown in the photo with electrical tape. But then I was able to lower the lock by adjusting the bolts. You can also adjust the trunk lid of the Lada Vesta using rubber stops. They have a threaded slot.

The front and rear license plates are secured with soft spacers. They also rattled on the bumps. There are no complaints about the rack and beam itself, everything is simple and reliable. There were knocking noises from the support; a paronite gasket was inserted there. The lower spring cushion may dry out.

The door guide also creaks - I spray penetrating lubricant all the time.

Loose wheel bolts

For various reasons, personal carelessness, including insufficient tightening of bolts, contributes to the appearance of extraneous sound. If you detect an uncharacteristic sound, check the tightening of the bolts yourself. If you do not have a wheel wrench, contact a service station for help.

After tightening, be sure to check that the wheel does not knock and make sure that the cause has been eliminated.

We do not recommend doing your own repairs while the machine is under warranty. Otherwise, it may be classified as a breach of contract by the consumer. It is not uncommon for a factory warranty to be voided prematurely.

Wear of stabilizer bushings

The first sign of “fatigue” of the stabilizer sealing bushings is a dull knock when overcoming a speed bump. Even in Lada Vesta, the manufacturer saves on materials and uses the cheapest ones. As a result, the service life of the bushings is short; creaking of the Lada Vesta suspension appears after several tens of thousands of mileage.

Other signs of bushing wear:

• knocking in the area of ​​the front axle when the car rolls;
• beating in the steering wheel at speeds over 60 km/h;
• play in the steering wheel when maneuvering;
• arbitrary deviation of the machine from a given course. Car enthusiasts say that it “takes away” to the side.

The final conclusion will be given by a mechanic after conducting a comprehensive diagnosis.

conclusions

If the service life of some units has come to an end, then they need to be replaced urgently, since one breakdown can lead to others, and the entire mechanism will go into disarray.

If we return a little to squeaks, then with significant fatigue of the ball joints, steering tip and rack, failure of the shock absorber, or its broken supports, unnatural irritating sounds may appear. Then it is best to go for a diagnosis and then treat the problem.

Despite the fact that a modern car is not only a high-tech vehicle and is manufactured to the most advanced standards. Even they have problems. These faults can manifest themselves as a knocking sound in the front suspension of the Lada Vesta.

Although the suspension turned out to be successful, malfunctions periodically arise, which the manufacturer analyzes and makes recommendations for eliminating squeaks in the Lada Vesta. They may appear as extraneous sounds or knocks.

Sequence of actions when replacing roll bar bushings

Catalog number - 8450006748, cost of original spare parts - from 350 rubles/piece. As an alternative, use polyurethane bushings from Chevrolet Niva (17012680).

• TORX 40 wrench, heads “13” and “16”;
• knob;
• extension wrench;
• torque wrench;
• new bushings, preferably polyurethane ones, as they have a longer service life.

1. We hang the front part of the car with a jack and use a hydraulic lifting mechanism.
2. Unscrew the steering gear casing (head at “10”).
3. We unscrew the steel brackets that secure the rubber bushings (the key is set to “13”).
4. Unscrew the front bolts (T40 key) and remove the bushings.
5. We insert new ones and assemble the structure in reverse order.

Tighten the bolts with a force of 2.0 kgf/m.

Replacing the brake caliper

Reagents and dirt from the road cause wear of the part: scratches appear from excessive friction, and the friction coating wears out. While the vehicle is moving, a knocking sound appears under the bottom. This is a signal that it is time to inspect the system and replace the caliper.

To do this, buy an assembled unit or components.

What calipers can be installed on Lada Vesta

If Vesta has 300x24 mm wheels and a 16-inch wheel, then you can install STT Performance 4-piston calipers. These are aluminum products weighing 3.5 kg. Comes complete with guide, pressure plate, bolts and washers for the standard brake hose.

In online stores under article number 8450006843 you can buy a front right caliper assembly. The left one is designated by catalog number 8450006844. Price - from 10,751 rubles. for each set.

Brake calipers for Lada Vesta. Photo source: https://www.drive2.ru/l/475951921580998817/?m=476002773993784091

A set of guides with four anthers and bolts costs 680 rubles.

Replacement procedure

Rumble in the brake system on Vesta is a non-warranty case. When the calipers on Vesta knock, you need to do the following:

1. Place chocks under the rear wheels.
2. Raise the front of the car on a jack.
3. Remove the wheel from the side where the part is to be changed and place it under the body for insurance.
4. Insert a flathead screwdriver between the brake pad and disc. Move the block inward and push the piston into the working cylinder.
5. Remove the rubber brake hose holder - it is secured with a bracket on the shock absorber strut.
6. Loosen the hose on the working cylinder.
7. Unscrew the fastening bolts (2 pcs.) of the brake pad guide to the steering knuckle and remove the caliper. Immediately unscrew the hose and plug it in an accessible way so that the liquid does not leak out.

Do the same with the second wheel. At the end of work, drivers check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top it up. Then the pedal is pumped to remove air from the hydraulic drive.

Wear of stabilizer link joints

Catalog number of the original stands (bones) - 8450006750, length - 283 mm. Due to poor-quality road surfaces, pins (hinges) often fail prematurely.

Replacing the “bones” yourself is not at all difficult if you follow the instructions for using the technical device.

• wrench 16, 19, Torx 30;
• a set of new “bones”.

1. Jack up the car and remove the wheel on the right.
2. Unscrew the upper and lower fastenings of the “bone”.
3. We insert a new one, tighten the nuts, and screw the wheel.
4. By analogy, we repair on the left.

Wheel bearing noise

At the initial stage of wear, the noise is practically inaudible. The appearance of extraneous sound in the cabin is a sign of moderate wear.

To verify that the bearing is faulty, it is enough to drive onto an open highway and accelerate to 50 km/h. Gradually rotate the steering wheel left and right. When turning to the left, the right bearing is worn out, and when turning to the right, the left bearing is worn out.

It often happens that a hum or rumble is heard on both sides, then the left and right bearings must be replaced, respectively.

Ball joint knock

After 60 - 65 thousand kilometers, owners note the appearance of a knocking sound in the area of ​​the axle shaft. Most often when turning at low speed.

The tip of the ball joint is rolled into a plastic sleeve. During the systematic operation of the car, the moving surfaces wear out and play forms.

The process of replacing the ball joint yourself is not difficult, but be careful not to violate the installation technology.

To verify that the ball is faulty, just jack up the side of the car. Loosen the wheel up and down, the presence of knocks and clicks will be a sign of wear on the ball joint.

Support bearing knock

Often, car enthusiasts perceive the shock of the shock absorber rod as the knock of the wheel bearing. This can be explained by the design of the rack: two cylinders and a metal rod.

During systematic use, the bypass valves wear out and the strut does not dampen vibrations. With a sharp push, a blow occurs, which is perceived as a knock of the support bearing.

To guarantee that the latter is faulty, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive diagnosis. It’s not difficult to do this yourself; in the transport position of the car, it’s enough to bleed the strut with a few presses on the car’s fender. After sharp pressure, the car must stabilize on its own, otherwise the shock absorber strut is faulty.

If there are no complaints about the shock absorber, then you are guaranteed to replace the support joint. The process is quite complex and requires minimal knowledge in servicing equipment. Unprofessional intervention does not guarantee full functionality of the mechanisms.

In order to carry out comprehensive diagnostics and replace worn-out equipment, contact a certified service station for help.

Ways to eliminate knocking in the front (rear) suspension of a Lada Vesta car

If you have minimal experience in servicing equipment, carry out repairs yourself. Service station technicians do not recommend independent repairs during the period of the vehicle’s factory warranty.

After the appearance of third-party noises and squeaks, the car enthusiast can carry out initial diagnostics and assess the general technical condition of the car or unit. With the results, contact the workshop to make a decision. The reasons for wear of chassis and transmission elements are varied, ranging from violation of maintenance deadlines to defective parts.

Review of Manufacturer Prices

*prices are as of April 2, 2019.

Conclusion

If you notice a third-party creaking, knocking, or rattling noise in the suspension, don’t panic. Malfunctions are a natural process. At the initial stage, it is important to correctly identify the source of the breakdown and its location.

If you do not have a special tool, such as mounting tools or TORX keys, contact a service station. It is extremely difficult to repair a car with your bare hands.

Regarding the manufacturer of spare parts, the final decision rests with the owner of the technical equipment. The domestic manufacturer is not inferior in quality to foreign analogues. In this case, it is not advisable to overpay for the brand.

Why do the calipers in Vesta knock, how to eliminate the noise

The calipers on the Lada Vesta must work smoothly and be technically flawless. But at twenty thousand kilometers, when the car is still under warranty, an extraneous sound from the brake system appears from under the bottom.

A caliper is a part of a car brake system that ensures a smooth stop of the vehicle when the driver needs it. When car owners discover a knocking sound from the Lada Vesta calipers, they immediately eliminate the cause, because serviceable brakes are a condition for safe driving.

Reviews

“Perfect silence”: How to overcome suspension knock in LADA Vesta SW Cross – said a car enthusiast

The author finally figured out how to modify the Vesta without great expense and tricks and get rid of the annoying knocking of chassis parts - everything turned out to be quite simple.

The author of the Kviring Drive channel shared tips on eliminating knocking noises. He clarified that the decision applies to all modifications of Vesta, but especially to the LADA Vesta SW Cross, since it is installed on heavier 17th wheels, it has a more powerful engine, the suspension is also larger, and key components deteriorate much faster.

The problem of knocking often lies in the engine mounts, rear and right rod relative to the driver. It was the author who changed them - he bought the original one on the right from a dealer for 2,600 rubles, and installed a reinforced one on the rear, from LADA Vesta Sport. According to him, due to this, the engine stands more confidently, does not become loose, and does not make sounds, except for a barely perceptible slight vibration at idle.

“An attempt to get rid of AvtoVAZ”: The network was dissatisfied with the test drive of LADA Granta Cross

They didn’t like that the auto expert kept silent about the shortcomings of the new Granta and inappropriately justified the lack of an ESP system.

The blogger added that “there is no need for collective farming,” and lubricating the racks, replacing them with polyurethane and other manipulations will not lead to the desired result. Fortunately, since the end of 2018, AvtoVAZ has improved the supports, rods, stabilizer, struts, so you can overcome the knocking of the suspension by simply buying spare parts from the factory and replacing them without any problems. And owners of new versions of LADA Vesta, as the author noted, should not have problems with knocking at all.

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The manufacturer can quite legally reduce this figure so that the car falls out of warranty earlier, the expert is sure.

They didn’t like that the auto expert kept silent about the shortcomings of the new Granta and inappropriately justified the lack of an ESP system.

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