How to eliminate clicks and squeaks in the clutch pedal of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora

How to stop squeaking when pressing the clutch?

Firmware for the radio of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora (luxury)
Often the cause of a squeak is a cable on which the lubricant has dried. If it is not old, there is no need to completely dismantle it. Just take a syringe and lubricate the cable from the hood and interior.

How to remove squeaking noise when pressing the clutch:

• Push the nozzle of the lubricant bottle deep under the casing and inject the oil. After carrying out the manipulation, do not forget to treat the casing joint with a water-repellent agent to prevent water from entering.
• Usually aerosols help little in such cases, since they do not completely penetrate under the casing. Two drops of oil will save the situation and eliminate the squeak. It is more difficult if the creaking does not occur in the pedal itself, but in the clutch mechanism.
• Typically, this situation is often observed in VAZ cars, where the creaking is caused by the clutch fork and bushing. Lubrication in this area is very difficult due to limited access.

Control pedals

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Creaks in the clutch mechanism

How to train the key of a Lada Priora, Kalina, Grant (activation of the standard immobilizer)

In cars of the VAZ family, the creaking of the clutch pedal can be caused by the clutch fork on the bushings in the crankcase

If everything is more or less clear with squeaks in the pedal block, then with squeaks and rattles in the clutch mechanism everything can be somewhat more complicated. On Grant, Kalina and similar cars, as well as VAZ 2108, 2109-2114, the clutch fork itself on the bushings in the crankcase can creak. The problem is that it is quite difficult to lubricate it without removing the clutch. And for this purpose, many people have WD in their trunk. But we are adults, and we don’t solve problems with half measures. Therefore, you need to try to lubricate it with oil, without removing the gearbox. Otherwise, such a lubricant is worthless. Although if you are not sure that it is the fork on the crankcase that is creaking, then disassembling the entire mechanism may well be required. Creaks don’t just appear and indicate either increased wear, a lack of lubrication, or both.

To lubricate the fork in front-wheel drive cars, you need to remove the rubber plug, if any, and use a syringe to apply lubricant to the clutch fork axle. Sometimes it may be necessary to drill out the housing where the axle is mounted. This way the lubricant will work more efficiently and accurately reach the fork axis.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=1YbOGBZgu1w

In the same mechanisms where the fork does not have an axle, but simply rests against the rod, as in the VAZ 2107, you just need to use a strong screwdriver or pry bar to move the fork to the side, and then lubricate the contact point of the fork with the rod with Litol. It's a two-minute job, but you'll have to crawl under the car. But nerves are more expensive. Therefore, do not be lazy, and your nerves will be stronger and the car will be quieter.

What is needed to eliminate this problem?

Eliminating this creaking noise from the Priora requires having a few simple tools and materials on hand.

• Anti-corrosion liquid WD-40;
• lubricant such as “Litol”, “Solidol” or “CIATIM”;
• pliers;
• screwdriver.

This simple set is enough to stop the creaking when you press the clutch pedal of the Priora.

Types of clutch drive

Adjusting the clutch of the fret grant

Regardless of what type of drive, what drives the clutch fork, almost every component or part can creak. It all depends on the technical condition and level of wear and tear of the drive mechanism. Most modern cars use a single-plate dry clutch. The mechanism itself consists of a clutch basket, which is rigidly fixed to the crankshaft flywheel. The torque of the motor is transmitted through the basket to the driven disk. The clutch disc is constantly pressed against the flywheel by a diaphragm spring or lever-spring mechanism. The pressure mechanism is acted upon by a release bearing, which, when transmitting force to the pedal, disengages the engine’s clutch with the driven disk and thereby separates the engine and gearbox.

The main source of annoying noise is the clutch drive. The drive can be mechanical or hydraulic. Mostly. There is also an electromagnetic drive, but it is installed extremely rarely and only when it is necessary to automate the clutch release. Most often on cars with manual gear shift. Hydraulic and mechanical drives are designed differently, but they creak the same way. The force from the pedal is transmitted to the clutch fork using a cable or hydraulic system.

Video tutorial on how the clutch works

Sometimes a vacuum booster is installed in the hydraulic drive. On inexpensive cars VAZ 2114, 2110, 2112, Daewoo Nexia, Lanos, Chevrolet Aveo and Lacetti, a mechanical cable mechanism is installed. Sometimes, to compensate for friction lining wear, a compensatory mechanism is used that does not require adjustment. This mechanism is installed on Lada Granta, Priora, Kalina, Kia Rio, Hyundai Accent. And for classic cars: VAZ 2101-2107, as well as some front-wheel drive: Volkswagen Polo sedan, Mitsubishi Lancer 9, Honda Civic 4D, Renault Logan, Sandero, Lada Largus, Mazda 6.

Device

First, let's delve into the design of this unit. In addition to the driven disk itself, the system also includes:

• Clutch switch.
• Pressure disk.
• Drive (the clutch cable is installed on the VAZ-2110).
• Fork.
• Release bearing.
• Basket.

The operating principle of the system is based on tight compression of the friction surfaces of the disc and flywheel linings, which transmits torque from the crankshaft. To change gears to a lower or higher gear, the driver depresses the clutch pedal on the VAZ-2110, thereby moving the disc away from the flywheel using a cable drive and fork.

Video: LADA GRANTA LIFTBACK (creaking from the clutch pedal)

Sachs clutch

The production of clutches for various car brands also has its own innovations. The clutch, like all other mechanisms, wears out quickly, and every driver wonders how to choose the right mechanism. Driving style and operating conditions are directly proportional to service life. Therefore, Sachs specialists, taking into account all the wishes of drivers, have released completely new, environmentally tested flywheels, release bearings, clutch discs and slave cylinders, compact clutch units and other equally interesting design solutions. These new products include:

1. MZ type clutch basket with pull-out action.
2. XTend with automatic wear compensation.
3. Dual-mass flywheel ZMS.
4. Release bearing type CSC.
5. Ultra-compact clutch unit (for sports cars).

Advice!

The clutch pedal should be installed at the level of the other two, otherwise there is a chance that the reverse gear simply will not engage.

If all the manipulations to lubricate all rubbing parts and mechanisms did not help you, and the problem remains unresolved, then in such a situation the best option would be to contact a specialized service center for diagnostic analysis.

Because solving problems with the gearbox and clutch in advance can prevent you from unexpected breakdowns and further expensive repairs.

1. For lubricants in hard-to-reach areas, it is best to use WD-40 or a silicone lubricant in spray form. Thus, the material will be better distributed on the surface and will reach all places that are difficult to reach manually.
2. It is recommended to lubricate the clutch pedal and fork cable fastenings with graphite lubricant, which has a beneficial effect on such mechanisms and holds well on devices subject to constant load.

The essence of the problem

Everyone decides to fight this scourge on their own, using their own resources (using the “scientific” method) or uses the advice of experienced “logan breeders” who have conquered this terrible “melody”. In this article you will learn about where this squeak comes from and how to cure it with your own hands.

We are looking for the cause

In fact, based on the design of the Renault Logan clutch, creaking can come from anything, from the bolt securing the pedal together with the spring, to the clutch basket with the release bearing. Such problems begin to appear from least to greatest after only kilometers of driving.

We are looking for a solution

Replace the clutch cable if it shows signs of mechanical stress and damage.

If the car's mileage is not too high and there are no problems with the clutch, first of all, pay attention to the condition of the transmission pedal cable. Visual damage, tears and corrosion are the determining indicators for its replacement.

This spring needs to be lubricated first.

If the cable is intact, then it is recommended to treat all rubbing surfaces (including the pedal spring) with silicone grease or WD-40. If such manipulations do not solve the problem, then it is necessary to look for it through the engine compartment, removing that same cable and replacing it with a new one. If this does not help, then the clutch assembly will need to be replaced.

PS

Remember that during operation, during operation, it is not the clutch cable itself that fails, but its casing, which wears out much faster. Therefore, when buying new parts, choose the highest quality of all.

Symptoms of malfunction, diagnostics, solutions

Video: CREAKS, CLICKS, ETC. (Clutch pedal) | VAZ PRIORA, GRANTA, KALINA

Why do cables squeak?

Another nuisance is the appearance of squeaks and clicks that occur when the clutch is disengaged with mechanical drives located in the area of ​​the cable. Understanding this problem is much more difficult, because the cable can creak both under the hood and inside the car.

In these cases, it is better to coat the cable completely; besides, it will not take much time.

If the cable is not too old, there is no point in completely removing it. It can be coated with engine oil using a syringe, carefully pushing it under the cable casing.

The areas where the cable exits from under the casing should be coated with a water-repellent lubricant, such as Litol 24, for example.

Not only the cable rubbing against the casing, but also the compensating mechanism can make a creaking noise. In some cars it is mounted under the hood next to the clutch, and in some on the opposite side, near the pedal. While the cable is new, it creaks and clicks. This cannot be avoided, but it is still necessary to lubricate it.

It is better to lubricate the compensation mechanism even when installing the cable. But, if you missed the moment, then you will have to practice acrobatic sketches in a car showroom. Using the same syringe, get to the compensation mechanism and sprinkle a couple of drops on it. The squeaks will disappear.

Save aerosols with magical properties for other occasions.

Why does a squeak occur when the clutch is released?

Very often, along with a squeak, other problems associated with the clutch pedal may arise. Basically, the pedal can be hard to move and is pressed jerkily.

Why does a squeak occur when releasing the clutch:

• In this case, it is necessary to urgently undergo diagnostics, since with further operation of the car, the fork or the cable that connects the clutch pedal to the car parts under the hood may break.
• Most often, the squeak appears when the clutch pedal is released, that is, at moments when there is no pressure on it. When all the mechanisms are under pressure, they work more smoothly. As soon as the pressure decreases, a squeak occurs.
• There are several options to solve the problem. Of course, it is best to remove the pedal, disassemble it and lubricate all the components. However, this manipulation takes a lot of time; even experienced car enthusiasts can do the job for half a day.

Adjustment

Why might the clutch squeak?

The creaking of the clutch pedal can be figuratively divided into two types:

1. The so-called light squeak. Such a squeak does not affect the pedal in any way, and absolutely does not affect its operation in any way. Rather, this unpleasant sound begins to irritate the driver, creating uncomfortable conditions for operating the car and causing a great desire to end it as quickly as possible. Very often it can occur when the air temperature outside is close to zero or below zero (typical of winter). As a rule, in these weather conditions it is extremely difficult to get rid of it, since it can appear again and again. It disappears on its own when the car warms up a little and the clutch eventually develops and returns to normal.
2. A hard or, as it is also called, a heavy squeak is a clear signal that it is necessary to diagnose the system, since the appearance of this heavy sound implies a real threat of failure of any of the parts closely associated with this pedal. You can also notice non-standard behavior of the pedal: it may be stiff or jerky. This is a rather serious problem that requires urgent repair, otherwise it will lead to a malfunction of the fork or a broken cable.

So, let's figure out why the clutch pedal squeaks.

One of the common causes of noise coming from the pedal is the plastic transmission bushing. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the bushing touches the bracket, resulting in some friction between the two elements, and this interaction produces an unpleasant sound.

Clutch pedal creaking can also occur in another situation, for example, there is no lubricant in the box on the input shaft. The sound in this case appears during operation of the pedal, in the place where the pressure bearing is located. During operation, the fork presses on this bearing, which in turn interacts with the clutch disc. From such an impact, the sound will undoubtedly make itself felt and, as a rule, a sharp desire to get rid of it.

The creaking of the clutch pedal can also be heard from the engine compartment. In this case, the reason may also be the lack of lubricant on their surface.

In very rare cases, the squeak may come from the pressure finger. In this case, no diagnostics or lubrication will help, since such an element cannot be repaired, but requires replacement. But do not forget to lubricate the new part well before installation.

Working with a drive cable

So, the cable still creaked. Here the work is a little more complicated. But not enough to rush to a car service center. To fully process this Priora part, it is, of course, advisable to completely remove the cable from its workplace. This means disconnecting the fastening in the passenger compartment and pulling it out through the rubber plug into the engine compartment. In principle, you don’t have to remove it from the fork. Lift it up and expose the cable itself.

Carefully pour anti-corrosion or brake fluid into the casing. Move it so that the liquid goes deeper. Lubricate the edge of the cable with grease. Reinstall everything and adjust the correct tension. That's it, the creaking noise when pressing the clutch pedal of the Priora has been eliminated.

The video contains interesting material on the issue raised:

Source

Solution

In almost all cases, the problem of a squeaking clutch pedal can be eliminated with the help of lubricant. To do this, you need to lubricate all intensively rubbing parts.

Experts recommend using thick grease (CV joint or something like that) as a lubricant. If the car was designed in such a way that it is impossible to get to the pedal elements or spring, do not despair - there is a way out. Use a slotted screwdriver for this. Apply a little lubricant to its metal part, after which you can reach the necessary places with a screwdriver.

There is also a possibility that the squeak does not come from the pedal, but from the clutch fork. During operation, it serves as a place for dirt and used lubricant to accumulate. Because of this, this unpleasant sound appears.

In order to eliminate squeaking in the clutch fork, it must be washed from dirt. Naturally, it is very difficult to reach it, so this must be done through the engine compartment. To clean, you can use carburetor cleaner - it will do the job perfectly. Once you have removed all the accumulated dirt, apply a coat of thick lubricant to the fork.

Other possible squeaks

In addition to the clutch pedal, the reasons for the appearance of squeaks we have already figured out, the reason may lie elsewhere. For example, if the clutch mechanism uses a cable drive, then it is often the cause of unpleasant sounds. If this is the case, simply changing the lubricant will not help solve the problem. To do this, it is necessary to replace the clutch cable.

If you hear a squeak somewhere from the engine, this indicates a faulty release bearing. To fix this problem, you will most likely need to replace the release bearing.

The clutch pedal may make peculiar noises due to the clutch actuator. This is due to the fact that all the work of the clutch is mechanical friction of the working parts. Naturally, the appearance of noise cannot be avoided. In order to get rid of annoying sounds, you will need to periodically lubricate the rubbing parts. Because you will not be able to control a constant level of lubrication - everything is washed off during operation.

There is a more difficult way out of this situation. Using a skilled turner, turn the bushing between the rubbing parts from a softer metal or polycarbonate. In this case, the occurrence of unpleasant sounds will stop, because the friction of different materials will not create such noise as two materials of the same density and structure create.

Many owners of Lada Granta, Kalina and Priora notice the creaking of the clutch pedal. Moreover, this problem may arise after the first kilometers of driving. We will tell you about the possible causes of this disease, as well as ways to solve it.

First, make sure your car's clutch is adjusted correctly. While holding the clutch cable end in an extended position, measure the size between the fork and the driver, it should be 27 mm. How to adjust the clutch cable is shown in the video:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=vYme_hsn6nM%23t%3D210

About 11% claim that the causes of clutch squeaking were in the clutch cable

Pay attention to the presence of a spring in the tension mechanism; Lada Kalina 2 and Lada Granta may not have it. It is worth noting that this spring is present on the clutch cable of the Lada Priora and the owners of these cars practically do not encounter a squeaking clutch pedal

If there is no spring, then it should be installed. Also, it would be a good idea to lubricate the clutch cable using a thin tube, or, if suitable, install a clutch cable from Lada Priora (catalog number: 21700-1602210).

Even less often (about 4% of owners) they solved the problem of a squeaking clutch pedal by lubricating the tip of the clutch cable. Apply lithol to the contact point between the plastic cable nut (No. 2) and the clutch fork (No. 1).

And about 3% of owners solved the problem with the help of lubricant (graphite) of the gearbox input shaft. To do this, you will have to remove the boot from the clutch fork lever (No. 6), and then lubricate it by inserting a tube from a lubricant can into the hole.

Most often (in 24% of cases), the creaking comes from the plastic pedal bushing, which rubs against the bracket. In this case, you should simply lubricate the rubbing areas with lithol.

In conclusion, I would like to note that it is better to start diagnosing a malfunction by determining the source (direction) of extraneous noise. Then you won't have to do extra work. Let us remind you that knocking noises on Lada cars can also come from the steering rack.

Engaging and disengaging a working clutch occurs silently. If squeaks and noises appear, it’s time for you to have the part diagnosed.

Step-by-step instruction

Now we will analyze the whole process step by step. Stock up on a caliper or at least a ruler in advance.

• Open the hood and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Now we need to remove the air filter, which hides the components we need
• We remove the mass air flow sensor connector, the adsorber coupler, the rubber supports and tilt the VF housing to the side
• Our clutch fork is located next to the crankcase. On some cars on the secondary market you can also find a sensor moved there by the driver
• Using a tool, say, pliers, we pull the tip towards ourselves in order to free up more space for work
• We take a caliper and measure the distance from the leash to the fork. According to Grant's technical documentation, it should be exactly 27 millimeters
• We adjust the leash according to the thread if the distance does not match
• Then we press the pedal a couple of times, look at the result, and repeat the setting
• Next is the travel of the pedal itself. It should be 14.6 centimeters (+ – centimeter). As already said, it is better if it is flush with the brake
• If even after several adjustments the pedal does not fall into place, then it would be logical to deal with the unit itself

Clutch pedal mechanism

Often squeaks appear as a result of wear and tear on the pedal mounting mechanism itself. The return mechanism may also make noise. These problems occur in both mechanically and hydraulically driven vehicles. The creaking mainly occurs when the pedal is released, when some parts of the mechanism are released from the load. In principle, knowing exactly how the clutch pedal is attached in a particular car, it is not difficult to troubleshoot the problem. Only mechanical connections and the return spring can creak in the pedal assembly when pressed. The problem in most cars is one - how to get to the pedal block. In cars with a large interior, this is a little easier, but try turning around in Kalina or Daewoo Matiz.

The clutch pedal may squeak due to wear on the pedal mounting mechanism.

As a rule, the pedals in all cars are suspended on a bracket and fixed to an axle, and easy pedal travel is ensured by plastic bushings through which the pedal is mounted on the axle. In principle, the bushings are not lubricated, but only replaced when they are severely worn. But they can creak regardless of their service life. To eliminate squeaks, it is best to unharness the spring and remove the entire pedal block. At the same time, you can lubricate the brake pedal. The problem is that this operation is labor-intensive and takes half a day. First, you should try to drip motor oil into the bushings from a syringe. This is much easier to do than lubricating the pedal unit when completely dismantling it.

If the creaking of the bushings does not disappear, then you need to get to the return spring. It can creak on its own or touch the metal bracket, as on the Polo Sedan or Grant. The spring should not be lubricated with engine oil, as this will only lead to a dirty interior. Magic products like WD40 can solve the problem for a couple of days and nothing more. Therefore, in such cases it is necessary to use lubricant for CV joints. That's what it's called. Lubricant is sold in tubes or jars, but in this case it is much more convenient to use a tube. The creaking is removed by 99%.

Verdict

Substandard behavior of the Granta pedal assembly is a malfunction that should be eliminated as soon as possible. The issue may be either in the drive, which here is a cable drive, or directly in the unit connecting the engine and the gearbox.

Most often, the problem lies in an unraveled cable or its limited mobility in the jacket. This problem can be eliminated by replacing the cable and/or lubricating it with oil, silicone or WD-40. The fork shaft often needs lubrication.

Less commonly, the problem is caused by a deformed or cracked fork. Wear on the leaf spring can radically change the amount of force required to release the pedal. A new clutch can also cause it to feel stiff.