How to increase oil pressure in a Priora engine with 16 valves

a mystery to everyone! Priora engine 16 cl. No oil pressure. The block has a new cylinder head, the working one was installed, the oil was changed 4 times, the filters were also changed, the oil pump was changed 2 times, the elbow was changed, and the bearings were changed 2 times. The mechanical sensor shows 0.5-0.8 kg at idle, the sensor has been checked. It should be 2.0-2.5. The pressure disappeared after the rebuild; the engine was bought secondhand. There are no changes from all actions

Did you grind the knee? Are the oil plugs definitely all in place? My sister had such garbage on 12. They spent a long time looking for oil pressure. And they changed the liners, it didn’t help (although the mileage was considerable) the problem was solved by replacing the camshafts. On the old journals, they were very worn out. And the pressure control The oil is taken at the very last point - after the camshafts. In general, the oil flew away through the journals.

The knee was first replaced with a used one, then a new one was bought. They installed a normal cylinder head which worked properly on another engine. The engine has already been dismantled 5 times, everything is in place

Clean the oil channel in the block, we had the same garbage, a piece of glue from the oil filter fell off and got into the channel that goes to the cylinder head. did the pressure appeared, the car drove for a couple of days, it disappeared again ((now I don’t know where to look... if you find it, write me in a personal message)) otherwise we’ve already removed the head 8 times and the engine 2 times, I’ll hang myself soon with this bucket! Are you sure you installed the inserts correctly?

The block was washed and blown before assembly. Then, when this garbage came out, we bought a completely new one. No changes. How dare I promise to write if the guys don’t burn the car

maybe the head died due to oil starvation and pressure is lost there if there is a lot of wear on the beds or camshafts

measure the necks of the ditch and the bed. It may be necessary to grind the top cover of the ditch to fit the new ditch (make the gap nominal.

Why then did no changes occur when installing a obviously working cylinder head?

Questions regarding what is the optimal pressure value in the engine are asked by a large number of car enthusiasts, regardless of the make of the car. After all, such discussions arise only because the standard instruments installed on the instrument panel do not represent dial or graphic indicators, but only a warning lamp. It signals extreme pressure, when the car may no longer be safe to use. Thus, monitoring the state of oil pressure in real time is simply unrealistic.

Causes of poor engine pressure

There may be several reasons for this. The most common are:

The oil level in the engine is lower than it should be, and therefore it does not completely enter the system.

This is how the oil in the editorial car was drained. Through the O-ring of the oil dipstick.

The oil pickup is cracked. Through such a crack, air enters the system, and viscous oil cannot reach components and sensors. The oil pump does not work well due to worn parts. There is oil loss in the lubrication system.

Inoperative oil filter.

The oil is diluted. A replacement is required, we have already written in more detail about the choice of oil for the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine.

The light may also come on when the oil pressure sensor is broken or a wire has simply come off it. In this case, you need to play it safe and double-check everything.

Low engine oil level

Checking the oil level

Oil cannot be sucked into the oil pump. In this case, there will be air at the outlet. In the VAZ-2112 engine, the oil receiver is located in the lowest part of the crankcase so that it is always immersed in oil.

If you do not regularly add oil and do not control its level, this can negatively affect the operation of the engine. The oil will also lose its properties. It will not be able to wash the rubbing parts, and will also fall on them in the form of sediment. A particularly thick mixture will clog the oil receiver mesh, preventing it from sucking in full oil.

The solution in this situation is to constantly monitor the oil level and add it. It is also necessary to carry out a complete oil change in accordance with the regulations. It is not recommended to drive more than 15,000 kilometers on one oil. The oil change on the VAZ-2112 should be done every 10,000 - 15,000 km.

Car engine oil pressure

Oil pickup cracked (clogged)

Cleaning a clogged oil receiver

An oil receiver is located between the pump and the oil. When it cracks, a vacuum occurs in the tube and oil cannot enter the system. The cause of such a breakdown may be engine vibration, which results in the formation of a crack. It can increase during operation, taking less and less oil. This could also be caused by a manufacturing defect. This will require a complete replacement of the part.

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Oil pump failure

Oil leak from oil pump

In this option, the pump will pump less oil into the system than it may need. As a result, the pressure in the system will not be sufficient. This will be especially noticeable when starting the engine.

Losses in the lubrication system

To distribute the oil evenly between all components that require lubrication, one pump will not be enough. This will require coordinated work of other parts. Among these we can note:

Oil nozzles.
Crankshaft bearings.
Gaps at the oil filter mounting location.
Broken bushing on the balance shaft.

Oil dilution

Since liquid oil passes through all the cracks that are in the system, the pump cannot create sufficient pressure in it. Such unsuitability of the oil may occur due to the fact that it loses its performance properties. Its additives stop working, and it can additionally be diluted with gasoline.

Oil filter failure

In the context in the literal sense of the word. Look how much dirt it filtered out. Here is the answer to the question about his role!

The filter has valves and an element that cleans the oil. When the latter becomes clogged with dirt during operation, it can no longer pass oil through itself. Then the bypass valve helps him. It is normally in the closed position. When the filter becomes clogged, oil begins to flow through the valve. But if the valve hangs in the closed position, then there is nowhere for the oil to come from in the system. In this case, the engine begins to starve of oil. The way out of this situation is to timely change the oil and filter.

How to check the oil pressure in the engine and what should it be?

Useful tips

Finally, here are some useful tips that may help you avoid problems with the oil pump pressure reducing valve or make it possible to identify its malfunction in time:

Fill the engine only with high-quality motor oil of the appropriate type and viscosity grade. Lubrication requirements can be found in the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations.
Never mix different brands of oils, even if they are of the same class.
Change the oil and oil filter in a timely manner. The regulations for this procedure are also indicated in the car owner's manual.
Do not allow dirt, moisture, or process fluids to enter the lubrication system.
Monitor oil pressure. When the corresponding warning light on the device turns on, do not hesitate to go for diagnostics.
Pay attention to the operating temperature of the engine. Overheating can cause coolant to enter the lubrication system.
If you decide to replace or adjust the oil pump pressure relief valve without the necessary skills and tools, it is better to use the services of specialists.

Without a working lubrication system, no car will last long. Its most important element is the oil pump, which provides full pressure in the system. However, it also does not last forever, and in case of failure it must be replaced. You can solve the problem even without contacting the service, but you will have to spend a lot of time. Today we’ll talk about why the oil pump fails on a Priora and how to change it if it fails.

POSSIBLE REASONS FOR VAZ 2106, 2108, ZMZ 406, 405

But there are also reasons that may appear on specific cars, since there is another factor that influences the occurrence of the problem - the design features of the engine. For example, on carburetor engines of the same VAZ-2106 or 2108, fuel can penetrate into the sump through the fuel pump. This unit on such engines is mechanically driven by a timing belt.

And due to damage to the pump membranes, fuel will penetrate inside the engine and mix with the oil, diluting it and increasing the level. But on the ZMZ-406 engine, the cause of the pressure drop, in addition to those described, may be damage to the oil pump drive. Because of this, the unit simply will not function normally, which will affect the performance of the lubrication system.

Mechanical breakdowns inside the engine should not be discounted, as a result of which the operation of the lubrication system is affected. For example, a break in the timing chain tensioner shoe, for example, on the same VAZ-2106, will lead to the torn part starting to hit adjacent surfaces, knocking out small pieces of metal. The chips formed as a result of such a breakdown will enter the lubrication system, and then settle in the filter, leading to a drop in pressure in it. Or on the same ZMZ-405, the pump is driven through an intermediate shaft, which is driven by a timing chain. If the sprocket of this shaft breaks (it can rotate separately from it), the pump will stop working.

And there are enough such nuances. But in any case, without eliminating the cause of the malfunction, you should not use the car, so as not to end up with expensive repairs later.

Lost oil pressure? We look for and eliminate the cause. Repair VAZ 2101

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Where is

In the LADA Priora car, the automatic anti-theft system (APS) is structurally built into the electrical package unit (comfort unit). Depending on the year of manufacture of the car, its location may be different. In early Priora models, it was located under the center console (beard), which is located in the middle of the dashboard. Under the electrical package unit in these models there was an electronic engine control system (ECM) or an electronic control unit (ECU).

In subsequent modifications of the Lada Priora car, the comfort unit, in which the immobilizer is located, was placed on the left side of the mounting block by the designers. The latter contains relays and fuses. Due to the fact that the electrical package unit is fixed to the surface of the body, behind the mounting block, it is difficult to get to it.

According to factory technology, to dismantle the comfort unit, it is necessary to disassemble part of the instrument panel, which is long and difficult. But there is another way:

Before performing any operations on the vehicle's electrical equipment, be sure to remove the contact terminal from the negative electrode of the battery. Remove the plastic panel from under the steering wheel by unlocking the mounting fasteners.
The mounting block becomes visible, behind it the assembly with the immobilizer is screwed in a perpendicular position. Blindly, use your hands to approach the 3 wiring connectors of the electrical package unit and disconnect them.
Using a bell wrench with a working head of 10, unscrew the 2 mounting bolts that hold the electrical package unit by touch. The bolts are not visible, they are located behind the fuse box.
Carefully remove the assembly; it can only be removed in one position.

Engine 21126, Mystery, oil pressure periodically disappears

I have been dealing with this problem for a long time and have noticed the following patterns:

— If the oil pressure is normal and the hydraulic valves do not knock, then in city driving mode you can drive for a very long time without losing pressure, and if everything is normal with the pressure and you go on the highway, then the pressure is guaranteed to drop in the first hour of continuous driving.

— (Cold start) If the pressure is LOW, then the car starts with half a turn, and if the pressure is normal, then you won’t start the car without gas (it will sputter and stall), or you can even fill the spark plugs. If during a cold start the car starts up easily, then you are guaranteed to expect a loss of pressure, but if, on the contrary, before the cold start the oiler was blinking and when you start the car and the engine starts to work as if on one or two cylinders (until you bring it to life by accelerating), then this is guaranteed means that now the hydraulics will begin to fall silent one by one and the pressure will return :), how the engine is designed is a dark forest for me, and as I understand it, the oil pressure is unlikely to have anything to do with the engine starting, but nevertheless there is such a pattern, and if this is a coincidence , that's very strange.

How to install an oil pressure sensor on a Priora

— The pressure appears only after the engine has completely cooled down, that is, it never happened that the engine was running with low pressure and it appeared during its operation.

— When you open the oil filler cap, oil visually splashes out in the same amount, both during normal engine operation and when the oil can is blinking.

What was done: — The pressure gauge showed 0.8 when hot (but not at the moment when the oiler was flickering, but simply when the hydraulic valves were knocking) — Replacement of the oil sensor — Repeated replacement of the oil (from different manufacturers) and filter — We looked at the pan — The oil receiver mesh is clean, the liners are like new, they installed a new pump (the pressure did not change at all) - They opened the head - the bed and camshafts are in normal condition - Before opening the head, it was coated with ordinary silicone sealant which was falling apart, and not as it should - removing the oil channels, but just around the perimeter and spark plugs wells. They coated it with red loctile as required.

What could it be? Where to look? The only nuance is that when they looked at the head, they immediately said that the hydraulics were tired, but I did not change them, because when the pressure is normal they do not knock, and new ones at low pressure would probably become the same. But now I’m already inclined to believe that faulty hydraulic valves can still somehow affect the pressure?

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Alarm indication

Of course, now in almost all cars there is an emergency indication for a complete lack of pressure, this is known to us all - a “burning oil can”. If it doesn’t go out for some time after starting, for example 10 – 20 seconds is one thing, it’s almost always the oil filter’s fault . But if the lamp is constantly on, then this is already an alarm bell. Perhaps the oil pressure sensor has simply failed, or perhaps the oil pump has failed.

In any case, the emergency indication is very important, and I do not advise you to joke with it; nevertheless, this is fraught with a major engine overhaul .

Remember this rule, if the lamp comes on, then turn off the car and preferably immediately to a service station, either a tow truck, or in tow.

Why does engine oil pressure drop?

If you noticed a light that came on while driving on a warm engine, there is no point in starting the procedure by measuring the oil level. In any case, the dipstick will show a low content, since the lubricant still remains on the parts

Allow the oil 5-20 minutes to settle into the crankcase. The time interval from the moment the ignition is turned off until the start of measurement depends on the make of the car, air temperature, degree of engine heating, etc.

It is also important that the car is on a level surface

In the meantime, while our oil is draining, examine the surface of the engine for fresh oil stains, and check for visible damage to the oil sump. See how the oil filter feels, whether it is loose or whether its gasket is damaged. Then pull out the dipstick, wipe it dry and put it back, then take it out again. If the oil trace is near or below the minimum MIN mark, add oil to the engine. Check again with the dipstick to see if the level has risen and start the engine.

Checking the oil level in a Toyota car engine

Has the lamp gone out? What a score. The whole problem was the low lubricant content. Therefore, the device signaled to you that the oil pressure in the engine had lost. You were able to lift it, and everything fell into place.

And now briefly about other common reasons for the lack of oil pressure in the engine:

Problem	Fixing the problem
Oil pump malfunction.	We buy a new one, pour a little oil into it before installing it
Malfunction of the sensor (measuring device).	We check the wires and the quality of the connections; - Remove the sensor and connect an external pressure gauge instead. If everything is normal, then the sensor itself has failed. It needs to be replaced.
Worn bearings in the motor.	We repair the engine.
Dirty oil filter, clogged oil channels, oil intake screen, faulty oil intake tube.	We install a new filter, clean the channels - Add engine oil - Remove the oil sump, clean the mesh, change the tube.
Problems or clogged pressure relief valve (liquid leaks through seals and other seals).	We disassemble the valve, clean it, and replace it if necessary.

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What value should it be?

To begin with, it is worth noting that pressure is measured in bars (BAR), because we are measuring liquid. It’s unlikely that anyone will tell you the exact values now, because the structures of the engines are different, but there is a certain normal interval.

AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars

At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands

If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.

Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

(4 votes, average: 2.75 out of 5)

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A little history

The VAZ “ten” line dates back to the 2110 sedan (1995). Three years later, the assembly of the 2111 station wagon model was established, and a year later the production of hatchbacks began.

At first, the 2110 model was equipped with a sixteen-valve one and a half liter engine. These were the maximum capabilities of the famous automobile plant in those days.

But time passes and progress, including automotive progress, does not stand still - another car appears, VAZ-2112, 16 valve. The hitherto known eight-valve version had less dynamism and power. And the appearance of the car has become more sporty.

Search for truth

I work in Chisinau, in a car service center. The management bought a 2014 Porsche 911 turbo S. in the back of 991.1, and later turbo S 991.2 (restyling) 2017. The cars were sunk in the USA and did not show any signs of life, after preliminary diagnostics, it turned out that there was water in the engine, which had corroded the coating of the cylinder walls. After disassembling the engine, it was decided to line the engine in a local office, they were chosen for this reason They have the best equipment in our country. After liners and replacement of all seals, piston rings and necessary threaded connections (bolts and screws), the price for both engines of these parts is comparable to the price of a brand new Renault Logan in a top-end configuration. The turbines were also replaced, because... through the exhaust and water entered the engine. The engines were assembled in accordance with the manufacturer's technical documentation, all tightening torques were observed. After a complete overhaul of the car, the engines were carefully run-in for about 3,000 km, the first oil and filter change was 500 km, the second was 1,500 km, and at the end of the run-in another change, oil according to approval, original filter. I ran the cars myself, always warmed them up, didn’t put any heavy loads on them, the gearbox was in sport mode so that it wouldn’t shift at 1,500 rpm with relatively low oil pressure, all levels and temperatures were always normal. And then, about 2000 km after the break-in, the 3rd piston knocked, when opened, scuffs were discovered in two cylinders, the pistons were smeared on the liners. We arrived with this scrap metal at the office that lined the block, they were a little shocked, and they said, you understand that this could not happen because of the sleeve, but I understand that this could not happen because of the assembly. There is no technical expertise in our city, I want to send the block and piston group to Moscow so that they can give an expert opinion and reseal the block.

It is still unknown how the second car will behave. I will soon remove the crankcase and try to use an endoscope to look at the condition of the liners.

So, while they send it, maybe there is someone here who understands all this and can express their opinion.

About additives and properties of oils for increasing pressure in the system

Some car enthusiasts are interested in whether there is motor oil that increases the pressure in the system. Rather, we are talking about special additives that improve its characteristics. The main result from the use of such compounds (for example, SUPROTEC) can be called the restoration of the previous parameters of operating processes in the engine. The surfaces of working parts and mechanisms of the piston group, worn out by constant friction, are partially restored, and their oil-holding capacity increases. As a result, fuel combustion efficiency increases and engine compression improves. Many oils contain special additives that are aimed at reducing engine lubricant consumption.

This is where we will end today’s material. There are many interesting articles ahead of us in the field of engine maintenance and car maintenance in general. Therefore, subscribe to our updates to receive useful newsletters in the future. Bye!

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What value should it be?

AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars

At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands

If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.

Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

Chassis

Many drivers believe that the suspension has become too soft, that is, there is no “feedback”. For decades, the car owner has become accustomed to feeling every bump on the road in a VAZ - this gives confidence in driving, since the driver “feels” the road and the car.

This effect appeared due to the modified suspension system

Nevertheless, the car handles perfectly, and this is felt even with a slight turn of the steering wheel. But at low speeds and during maneuvers at the very beginning of the movement, the steering wheel is a bit heavy. ABS is not provided.

The brake system is still the same:

front disc brakes (with vacuum booster);
drum brakes at the rear;
Braking is confident and effective, and the system itself is simple and easy to maintain.

The car, with all its existing shortcomings, is still quite successful, especially if you take into account its reasonable price

Oil pressure on a VAZ-2112: how much should it be?

Many motorists know that the 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine has engine compression. This is an indicator of oil pressure, which is found in all modern engines. But, for a given engine, what should this indicator be? This is exactly what this article will discuss.

Video about checking compression and oil pressure in the engine:

The video material will tell you how to correctly measure the oil pressure in the engine.

What is oil used for?

The oil pressure indicator lights up on the instrument panel

Automotive oil plays many functions in a car. Initially, this is the lubrication of parts and internal elements. So, without this, rapid wear of most spare parts is inevitable. The second function is cooling the motor elements. Oil is a good “heat absorber”, which provides additional protection against overheating.

The third function is to provide compression. This indicator gives traction power and normal functioning of the engine, namely operation at idle and at higher speeds.

What builds up oil pressure

Oil pump

To pump oil, the engine has an oil pump, which lifts oil from the sump and distributes it throughout the entire system. Thus, it not only provides lubricant, but also creates the necessary pressure. There are several factors that can cause the pressure in a car to drop:

Unstable timing.
Oil pump failure.
Valves not fully closed.
Other factors that can lead to loss of engine pressure.

What should the pressure be?

Now, directly to the question, what should be the pressure in the 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine? If you believe the manufacturer’s data, then the engine when measuring the pressure gauge should produce the following indicators:

At idle speed - 2-2.2 bar.
At speeds of 4-5 thousand - 5-6.5 bar.

The pressure gauge measures the oil pressure in the engine

As practice shows, most motorists have the following indications:

At idle speed - 1.5-2 bar.
At speeds of 4-5 thousand - 4-6 bar.

This indicator is considered normal for the complete and uninterrupted functioning of the engine, as well as ensuring the normal operation of all systems.

conclusions

When measuring a 16-valve VAZ 2112 engine, the pressure gauge shows the following indicators: idle speed - 1.8 bar; speed 4-5 thousand - 5 bar. This is quite enough for the systems to function normally and for no interruptions in engine operation.

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Oil pump wear

Due to wear of the pumping pair parts of the oil pump, oil leakage increases. The pump cannot provide the required pressure in the oil system and a smaller volume of lubricant is supplied to the rubbing parts. The presence of contaminants in the oil significantly reduces the service life of the oil pump. A worn oil pump must be replaced. To extend the life of the oil pump, we recommend flushing the oil system regularly, every time you change the oil.

If the wear of the pumping pair is not critical, then the use of revitalizant gels can compensate for the accumulated wear and restore the performance of the oil pump. To treat the oil pump (engine oil system), we recommend using the following additives to increase oil pressure:

Revitalizant EX 120 for gasoline / diesel engines;
Revitalizant 1Stage;
AMC MAXIMUM.

Why can the oil pressure light come on on a warm and cold engine?

Let's start with the fact that the oil pressure indicator lamp is not an indicator of the level of the oil itself and its quality. The purpose of this device is to record oil pressure or its absence in the central line of the engine lubrication system. It turns out that the oil pressure light comes on if the pressure in the system has dropped below the permissible level.

Please note that it is normal for the oil pressure light to light up briefly (1-3 seconds) or blink after starting the engine. The fact is that the oil pump does not maintain constant pressure in the system after the engine is stopped. Oil pressure begins to build up from the moment the crankshaft is cranked by the starter. If the oil pressure light does not go out or continues to blink for a longer time after starting, then this may indicate a malfunction, low level or quality problems with the engine oil.

Why does the oil pressure light come on? Main reasons.

It should also be added that during cold periods, the engine oil in the crankcase thickens (especially mineral oil) and the oil pump takes more time to raise the pressure in the lubrication system to the required level. If the oil pressure light stays on longer than usual, then the first step is to turn off the engine and check the oil level using the dipstick or by analyzing the oil level readings on the dashboard.

You should also remember about this phenomenon when the oil pressure light comes on briefly while driving in a fully functional car. This can occur as a result of severe body roll during active driving of a vehicle with a so-called “wet” sump. To put it simply, the oil in the oil pan overflows heavily to one side of the tilt, gets agitated, and foams. All this makes it impossible for the oil pump to effectively extract and supply lubricant into the system under the required pressure. To eliminate this phenomenon and prevent negative consequences on sports rally cars that require long-term operation in such conditions (overcoming difficult obstacles, jumping, constant rolls), a dry sump system is installed. In all other cases (if the warning light is on for a longer time), the situation can be considered an emergency.

Engine oil under the required pressure must be stably supplied to loaded pairs and friction units: crankshaft and camshaft bearings, to the turbocharger rotor, to hydraulic timing valve compensators, hydraulic belt tensioners, phase shifters of the variable valve timing system, etc. The operation of such components at low pressure in the oil system leads to the formation of scuffing on the liners and journals of the crankshaft and camshaft, rapid abrasion of antifriction coatings at the interfaces of parts, overheating of loaded elements, etc. With insufficient pressure in the lubrication system, an engine is subject to severe wear and overheating; liners may rotate, shafts may jam, turbocharger failure, etc.

practical guide

Recommendation

If, when the engine is warmed up to operating temperature and idling, the emergency oil pressure lamp lights up, you should make sure that:

a) the oil level in the engine sump is normal;

b) the engine is filled with oil in accordance with the factory operating instructions;

c) the oil pressure sensor is working and its wire is not shorted to ground. The integrity of the sensor wire insulation is checked visually. To check the sensor itself, replace it with a known good one and start the engine. If the control lamp continues to light, it means that the sensor is working;

d) there are no extraneous sounds coming from the engine (knocks, grinding noises) indicating cranking of the connecting rod or main bearings or a malfunction of the oil pump.

To complete the work you will need a pressure gauge.

Execution Sequence

1. We prepare the car for work.

2. Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.

3. After turning off the engine, remove the emergency oil pressure sensor.

4. Screw the tip of the pressure gauge into the mounting hole of the sensor.

5. Start the engine and check the oil pressure at idle speed at a crankshaft speed of about 5,400 min-1.

For a serviceable engine warmed up to operating temperature, the oil pressure at idle speed should be at least 196.2 kPa (2 bar), and the oil pressure at high crankshaft speed should be 441.3-637.4 kPa (4.5-6 .5 bar). If the pressure is below normal, then the engine needs major repairs. If the oil pressure is higher than normal at high engine speeds, the oil pump relief valve is probably faulty.

6. Upon completion of the test, install the sensor in place

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Your vehicle's instrument cluster contains a warning light for low engine oil pressure. For reliable engine operation, it is necessary that the lubrication system maintain a sufficiently high pressure at all times.

Attention.
If the oil pressure warning light comes on while the engine is running and continues to light at increased speed, this is an alarming sign.
You need to immediately stop driving, stop the engine and find out the cause. Continued operation of the engine with low oil pressure can lead to serious engine damage and large financial costs for repairs. How to check the lubrication system?

1. Open the hood. Do not rush to immediately check the oil level in the engine; let it drain into the oil sump, this will take two to three minutes. During this time, carefully inspect the engine, find out if there are any fresh oil leaks on it.

2. Look under the front of the car to see if the engine oil sump is broken or leaking.

Recommendation.

If an oil leak is detected from a punctured oil sump, try to temporarily repair it in place. To do this, you can use a car inner tube, a piece of rubber, a rag, a wooden plug, etc. A good result can be obtained by using modern repair materials such as “cold welding”, available for sale in car dealerships.

3. Pay special attention to the oil filter. Oil may leak from under the rubber filter gasket if it is damaged or the filter is poorly secured. If oil is leaking from under the oil filter, sometimes it is enough to turn it a little clockwise.

Attention.

Be careful: hot engine parts can burn you, so wear gloves and long sleeves.

4. Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a clean cloth and reinsert it.

5. Remove the dipstick again and check the oil level. It should be between the top and bottom levels of the grid scale.

It is worth noting that in the previous article we looked at another malfunction when the Lada Priora engine stalls. Come in and you will find out what measures you need to take.

6. If the oil level is below the lower scale mark, add oil to the specified level.

Recommendation.

If you don't have a funnel to add oil, you can use a funnel made from the neck of a plastic bottle.

7. Start the engine. If, at a normal level, the emergency oil pressure drop lamp goes out, you can continue driving. If the lamp does not go out, check the serviceability of the oil pressure sensor. It is mounted at the top of the rear of the camshaft bearing housing. Unscrew the standard oil pressure sensor and install a mechanical pressure gauge in its place. If at normal idle speed the pressure is more than 0.1 MPa (1.0 kgf/cm2) and increases with increasing speed, the sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty.

Recommendation.

If you do not have a pressure gauge, all that remains is to check the reliability of the contact in the block with the sensor wires or replace the sensor with a known good one.

If, after eliminating all visible causes, the oil pressure in the engine is insufficient (the emergency oil pressure drop lamp is on), diagnose and repair the engine.

Attention.
Do not try to drive to the garage: the engine will fail.
Tow the vehicle with the engine not running for repairs. Recommendation.

Before you begin repairing the engine, check the condition of the oil pump.

Good evening, friends. There will be a lot of letters, I hope that someone who rummages around in cars will master my entire story and help with advice. Because I’m already tired of fighting our auto industry. It all started with the fact that I decided to buy myself a car. I had very little money, I’m quite a big man, I was looking for something, well, at least something more spacious for me. When choosing, I settled on the Prior. It looks ok, the repairs don’t seem to be particularly expensive, and, as I said, there wasn’t much money for the purchase. This is my first car in my life, I’m on good terms with cars, I don’t know how to choose. Having traveled around to outbid sellers, I inspected a couple of cars, three or five, I settled on a 2008 Priora 16 valve, the saffron milk caps don’t seem to be visible, the condition is good. I don’t have any friends who would go with me and buy a car, everyone has moved away, so I chose it myself. I checked that it went for a ride, looked at the light bulbs, checked that the handbrake worked, the power windows and windshield wipers worked, everything suited me and I decided I should take it. And took. The seller said, change the oil, guy, it hasn’t been changed for a long time, that’s all I know. I bought a car, drove it home, I don’t have a license, I added a colleague from work to my insurance, transferred the car to myself, and left it for him to drive while I got my license. I give him a car, and he is my personal driver. From home to work, from work home. I like. And he tells me, “Your oil pressure light is blinking, that’s not good.” I tell him that the seller warned that the oil needs to be changed, it’s old. I bought oil and an oil filter and were going to change it. And this guy, a colleague, still has a bit of a knack for cars, he studied to become an auto mechanic, and worked for some time in a service department for some friends. (You should have taken it with you, stupid) We were going to change the oil, we drained the old oil, but it was new. Well, it's clean. Well, what can you do, since you already bought the oil, let’s change it. Changed the oil and filter - nothing changed. Well, he offered to take the Priora to a service center, to see some friends, Uncle Misha, a great guy. When we arrived, he said we need to look at the oil pickup. The car is in the pit, Misha jumps in there, unscrews something there - a new oil pickup, the price is still on it. He says leave the car, we’ll sort it out. Oh, and I dragged out my story. As a result: I ended up with a full engine capital. Uncle Misha, a kind man, did everything for me at half price, but he immediately said that in his free time, at a discount, he overhauled the engine, the car sat in the service center for a couple of months, well, I’m not in a hurry. And when I picked up the car from the service center, Misha told me that your pressure is low, when hot, when idling, 0.8 kgf/cm2, when cold, the pressure is excellent. You need to change the oil pump, buy it and we’ll replace it for you. I don’t have much money, I picked up the car from the service center, drove it 3,000 km, bought an oil pump, all the gaskets, well, everything I needed, what Misha said, I took the car and waited. As it turned out, it was in vain. After changing the oil pump, the pressure did not change. As it was, so it remains. I re-read all the forums that I found, opinions are divided, my head is already spinning, I wrote to all my friends who understand at least something about this, but nothing helps. Please give me some advice, has anyone encountered this? Who knows where the trouble lies? How can I increase the pressure from idle to hot to at least 1.5? Don’t heat it too much, please, friends, I’ll leave a couple of comments for the cons. I hope for the power of Peekaboo!

Lost oil pressure on Priora

ignat 93 wrote:

I brought the car from the service station (AvtoVAZ). As expected, there was ice in the pan. I support the oil issue, but the point is that the car is still under warranty. They blamed me - I don’t warm it up enough and don’t drive it enough - a candence will form. It seemed to warm up normally. Well, up to 60-70 somewhere. In general, they replaced the filter and oil at my expense! They made me look like an idiot. one of the workers blurted out that I was not the first in these frosts and this is also a sore on the Priors! After the 2nd maintenance, I won’t take the car to them (it’s discolored). I'll change the oil and filter myself - they seem to be crap there!! Smile, for example, on the VAZ 21103 there were never any such problems.

Looks like this is my case too. Lukoil GENESIS ARMORTECH oil, 5W40, was poured into the Priora in the summer, the mileage on it is about 1.5 thousand. I filled it myself. Recently there were frosts, about -20, without leaving, we warmed up the car (15-20 minutes), turned it off, then didn’t start it for several days. When they started to start it, the oil pressure light began to constantly burn, and the hydraulic valves began to crackle. After removing the oil filter, when cranking with the starter (DPKV was turned off), no oil came out of the pump. When we were looking for the cause of the loss of pressure, we removed the filter and did not notice anything unusual in the oil that spilled onto the filter, the oil was like oil. I installed a new filter, and nothing was pressed through with it (as it didn’t pour out without a filter, it didn’t work) They dragged the car with a tie into a pit, into the garage

We heated the sump with a 2 kW hairdryer to see if the oil would come out when the starter was turned, and removed the filter. Before starting, all the oil that spilled onto the filter from the system was in drops of water. Then we turned the starter, oil came out. We installed the filter, started the engine and after 5-10 minutes, the hydraulics were pumped and stopped rattling.

Video

The gearbox oil should be changed every 30,000-40,000 km - if you have a manual gearbox, and 50,000-60,000 km if you have an automatic transmission. In my case, the rear gear crunching was heard and the second gear began to work hard. The dipstick showed the oil level at a minimum, although it should be between the minimum and maximum stripes. If it is below the minimum, then you should think about changing it, otherwise the parts will wear out and crumble. Choice of oil? Which one should I fill? Let's see what the manufacturer advises us:

Many people use ZIC oil (made in Korea) and other oils. Although it costs a little more, I didn’t see the point in overpaying. Now let’s look at the labeling. SAE class and winter-summer temperature range (in °C): 75w-80 – from -40 to +35° C; 75w-90 – from -40 to +35° C; 80w-85 – from -26 to + 35° C; 80w-90 – from -12 to +45° C. Here transmission lubricants were classified by quality. The letters indicate the quality and area of use of the oil, and the numbers indicate the temperature regime. The temperature limits when using synthetics increase. Since my region is northern, my temperature range ranges from -40 to +35, then either 75w-80 or 75w-90 is suitable for me. Mineral lubricants do not have this feature. When lubricants are used in the transmission, fluctuations in the physical composition begin. Oxidation of a mineral base occurs faster than a synthetic base. For this reason, the mineral base ages faster. Mineral lubricant is changed more often. Transmission devices will wear differently. So we take either semi-synthetic or synthetic, whichever you can afford. I took semi-synthetic gear oil from Rosneft 75w 90 GL4/5 with a volume of 4 liters.

What you need for work: 1. Open-end wrench size 17 (socket wrench is most convenient). Price: 125 rubles (420 tenge)2. Funnel and hose 1.0-1.5 m long (for filling oil). Price: 125 rubles (420 tenge)3. Jack (or inspection hole/overpass).4. Empty container for draining old oil (3-4 liters).5. Gear oil 4 liters. Price: 1150 rub (3900 tenge)

Before draining the oil from the gearbox, you need to warm it up. You either need to drive for 15 minutes or drive 5-10 km. Then, within 15 minutes while the oil is hot, you need to drain it. Warming up the car on the spot will not help, you definitely need to drive it. Just in case, I put the car in first gear and the handbrake. Jacked up the front wheel on the driver's side. I tightened the bolt with a 17mm wrench. I washed the bolt (so that I could insert a clean one later). I placed an empty container to drain the oil. The pressure was low and oil was poured into the protection. It’s most convenient, of course, to first remove the protection before draining the oil; I was too lazy to tighten a bunch of screws. I lowered the car from the jack and left it standing there for 30-40 minutes. Around the 20th minute, I took it off the program.

Then he jacked it up again and tightened the bolt. I wiped everything around the bolt that I was tightening with a dry rag in order to track any possible leaks, and poured oil through a hose with a funnel. After filling 3 liters, I began to periodically check the oil level with a dipstick. It took about 3.7-3.8 liters of oil. You need to fill in a little more than the strip at maximum so that the fifth gear does not dry out. I wiped the dirt off the dipstick with water and put it in place. I got into the car and started turning the gears 3-5 times, so that the oil would seep out normally everywhere. After this procedure, the box began to work softer and the sounds became less.

Replacement procedure

All work on replacing the controller must be carried out on a cooled engine, since during operation the lubricant heats up to high temperatures. Dismantling procedure step by step.

Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
The sensor is located in a hard-to-reach place; for convenience, you can remove the air filter.
Remove the wire plug, inspect the connector, check the wiring. In 20% of cases, breakdowns are caused by frayed wires.
Using a 21 key, loosen the controller fasteners.
Unscrew from the seat. Check the tightness of the seat ring that is in the socket and replace if necessary.
Install the new controller in reverse order.

Replacing the pressure sensor on a Priora will require 10 minutes of work in the garage, but if the malfunction of the indicator is associated with a wiring breakdown, the car needs to be fully tested and the contacts cleaned. If you are concerned that your experience is not enough, it is better to contact the service.

Sensor cost

The Lada Priora comes from the factory with the original oil pressure sensor 11180-3829010. Its price ranges from 180 to 250 rubles. Third-party manufacturers produce analogues for the native DDM. Some of them are of decent quality while maintaining an affordable price. The best alternative options for a branded product are presented in the table below.

Table - Good analogues of the original Lada Priora oil pressure sensor

Firm	Catalog number	Approximate cost, ruble
AMY	6022.3829-01	75-150
Road map	11183829010	75-90
Baker	11183829010	80-130
Autodevice	1118-3829010	110-185
Bautler	BTL1118OPS	120-160

Check and replacement

During operation of the VAZ-2112, various malfunctions may occur. For example, the oil pressure sensor may fail. However, before drawing conclusions about the causes or presence of a possible breakdown, you should first check the functionality of the device.

The check is performed as follows:

First of all, check the circuit connecting the DDM and the control lamp. To do this, take the sensor wire and lean it against the surface of the engine. At the same time as this action, you should see if the light on the dashboard is on. If the lamp goes out, then the wiring is fine and the problem is really in the sensor.
The next step is to remove the device from the vehicle for a visual inspection. The first sign of a breakdown is the presence of moisture on the sensor.

If the DDM turns out to be dry and everything is in order with the wiring, it is recommended to look for the problem elsewhere. For example, the malfunction may be in the oil level or its quality. You can also replace the oil filter if necessary.

There is another way to check the functionality of the sensor in the VAZ-2112. It is considered more reliable and proven. In this case, you will need to use a pressure gauge, and the sequence of actions will look like this:

First of all, it is necessary to warm up the engine until it reaches operating temperature, and then turn it off.
Next, you need to unscrew the sensor from the car and screw in the pressure gauge in its place.

The ground wire of the pressure gauge will need to be connected to the ground of the vehicle.
After this, you need to connect the control LED to the battery.
The next action is to turn on the engine and press the gas pedal. In this case, it is necessary to take into account that the speed rises gradually.

When the action is completed, you should carefully monitor the pressure gauge and LED. If the device readings reach 1.2 and 1.6 bar, but the LED does not go out, then the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.

To carry out the replacement you will need:

Stock up on the necessary tools, as well as a new sensor.
Disconnect the wires from the old device.

Unscrew the sensor using a wrench.

Remove the unit

In this case, during the dismantling process, you should pay attention to the fact that the sealing ring should come out along with the sensor. It will also need to be replaced

Install a new sensor.
Check the contacts and clean them if necessary, then connect the wires.

When all the steps are completed, you can start the engine again and check the serviceability of the sensor.

Reducing valve malfunctions

The pressure reducing valve, oil pump and oil filter are the main elements of the lubrication system, but if the latter, due to the peculiarities of its design, almost never breaks, but only becomes clogged, then the first two parts can fail quite often. The reason for this is usually the use of low-quality oil, lubricant that does not correspond to the type of engine and its operating conditions, as well as untimely replacement. In this case, particles of dirt, metal shavings or combustion products contained in the lubricant settle on the working surfaces of the valve, which, in fact, leads to its clogging and jamming.

In what cases is it necessary to replace motor lubricant?

The performance of the power unit and the operation of the vehicle itself will depend on the characteristics of the lubricant and its quality. The manufacturer installed several different engines on the Priora, ranging from 8-valve 21114 and 21116 to 21126–21128. They already have 16 valves and are capable of producing power up to 120 hp.

According to the recommendations provided by the manufacturer, oil changes must be carried out in strict accordance with the regulations. For new cars, as well as for those that have undergone major engine repairs, this should be done after 2.5 - 3 thousand kilometers. When should you change the lubricant afterwards? Everything is very simple here - during further operation you will have to replace it every 15 thousand kilometers or annually, without regard to mileage.

However, these are not all situations that affect oil consumption and the need to change it. Manufacturers say that the engine can consume up to 1 liter of lubricant literally for every 1000 kilometers traveled. This is a common occurrence, especially for domestic engines, but a more accurate consumption rate depends on the characteristics of the oil, for example, its viscosity, as well as operating conditions. When driving at high speeds, frequent accelerations, and also when the engine has not been run-in, the degree of consumption will be an order of magnitude higher.