At what temperature does the VAZ 2109 fan operate?

The fan switching sensor is an element of the carburetor engine cooling system (2108, 21081, 21083) of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars. Purpose of the fan switching sensor

The fan switch on in the cooling system of a carburetor engine is designed to turn on or off depending on the coolant temperature of the fan on the radiator.

Location by car

The fan switch sensor is screwed into the threaded hole of the right (in the direction of the car) radiator cooling tank.

Fan sensor device

The sensor body is made of brass or bronze. This is an oblong cylindrical cylinder with a nut at the top, a thread in the middle, and a flat surface at the bottom. The connection between the sensor and the radiator is sealed with an aluminum or copper O-ring. The sensor has two outputs: one current is supplied (minus), the other goes to the fan switch relay (113.3747) in the mounting block (also minus). Inside the housing, the leads have two contacts. There is also a bimetallic plate located inside the case (attached to the bottom); as it heats up, it changes its curvature and closes the contacts.

Operating principle of the fan switch sensor

On VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars until 1998. with mounting fuse block 17.3722 (finger type fuses).

The fan switch sensor is installed in the gap in the negative wire leading to the fan switch relay in the mounting block. When the temperature in the radiator of the cooling system rises to 99±3º C, the contacts inside the fan switch sensor are closed by a bimetallic plate, and an electric current (minus) flows through it to a relay in the mounting block. From the relay, the current (already a plus) goes to the electric motor of the fan on the radiator and turns it on.

On VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars after 1998. with mounting blocks 2114, the fan switch relay is removed from the electrical circuit. The fan switch sensor is also installed in the gap of the negative wire, but this time goes directly to the fan. The contact closure temperature is similar.

If the temperature in the radiator drops below 93±3º C, the bimetallic plate opens the contacts and the fan electric motor is de-energized.

Malfunction of the fan switch sensor

The fan switch sensor rarely fails, since there is practically nothing to break there. The reasons for its failure may be poor workmanship or mechanical deformation. If you have problems turning on the fan on the radiator, you should first check its electrical connections. Having removed both wires from the sensor, we connect them together. Turn on the ignition. If the fan starts working, the on/off sensor is faulty. If not, the fault should be sought in other elements of the circuit.

Applicability of the fan switch sensor

The cooling system of the carburetor engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars uses the TM 108 sensor with markings on the body “99-94”. It works both through a relay in the mounting block in cars before 1998, and without a relay in cars of later years. Analogues of this sensor from different manufacturers are also available for sale.

Notes and additions

— On the injection engine of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars, the cooling system fan is turned on at the command of the control unit (ECU), which analyzes the readings of the coolant temperature sensor (DTOS).

— There is another temperature sensor in the cooling system of carburetor and injection engines of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars. This is the temperature indicator sensor in the instrument panel (TM 106). It only works on the temperature indicator.

More articles on the engine cooling system of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars

The essence of the post is already visible in the title. So the question is - why does the fan come on late?

A friend advised me to replace the temperature sensor, the one located near the thermostat.

Coolant temperature sensor for VAZ 2109 and 21099 cars

To begin with, it is advisable to know where it is located. On models 2108, 21099 and VAZ 2109, the coolant temperature sensor is installed between the cylinder head and the thermostat, in the exhaust pipe.

Device and principle of operation

The engine temperature controller itself is a thermistor-resistor device characterized by a negative temperature coefficient. The resistance parameter itself can be measured only when the temperature decreases or increases.

When the power unit heats up as a result of operation, the resistance indicator decreases; if the engine cools down, this parameter increases. For example, at the operating temperature of the engine on a VAZ 2109, the resistance is equal to 180 Ohms, and if it is 40 degrees cold outside, then the resistance will be equal to 100,700 Ohms. On one side of the DTOZH VAZ 2109 injector there are two contacts, and on the other there is a sensitive component, which is located directly in the flow of consumables.

As for the principle of operation, when the driver turns on the ignition, the control unit transmits voltage to the regulator via a resistor. Since the DTOZH itself is a thermistor, the voltage supplied from the control unit changes immediately taking into account the temperature of the consumable. When the parameter decreases, the unit analyzes the temperature and, in accordance with these data, determines the required volume of gasoline for injection. As the power unit warms up, the volume of gasoline that is transferred to the cylinders will decrease.

In addition to starting, according to the readings of the regulator, the ECU adjusts the operation of the power unit at idle speed. As a result, he independently makes decisions on enriching the combustible mixture at high and medium loads on the internal combustion engine. This indicator can be changed depending on the ignition timing.

There are two temperature sensors on a carburetor car. One turns on the fan, the other is responsible for indicating the temperature on the dashboard.

Possible faults

There are several reasons why the regulator on the VAZ 21099 refuses to work.

So, why DTOZH does not work:

An electrical contact is located inside the device structure. Over time, this contact may simply break or cracks may form on it. If a break occurs inside the structure, this may cause complete failure. That is, the DTOZH will simply burn out. If there are cracks on the contact, the DTOZH, in principle, can work, but as a result of the lack of normal contact, the regulator will transmit incorrect data about antifreeze.
Poor device insulation. If the insulation is broken, short circuits may occur in the operation of the device. Accordingly, ultimately, these short circuits can lead to the DTOZH, again, burning out and having to be replaced.
There was a broken wire near the regulator. As a result of the break, the regulator will not be able to activate the fan designed to cool the power unit. Accordingly, this will lead to the engine overheating and may even boil (the author of the video is a Mechanical Technician).

VAZ 2114 heater fan does not work reasons

Hello. If you start the car in severe frost or on a hot summer day, and the heater fan on the VAZ 2114 stops working and does not blow, do not be upset, as this problem can be quickly solved by reading this article. In order to understand the reasons why the stove fan may not work, let's first look at the electrical diagram for connecting the stove motor.

Heater fan diagram VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113

And so, here is a list of all components of the scheme:

Mounting block (aka fuse block).
Egnition lock.
Ignition switch relief relay.
Heater fan speed switch.
Additional resistors.
Stove motor.
Rear window heating switch with warning lamp.
Rear window heating element.

The scheme works as follows. When you turn the key in the ignition switch (2), its unloading relay (3) is turned on. The unloading relay supplies power to fuse f7 in the mounting block (1).

After the fuse, power goes to the rear window heating switch (7) and the fan speed switch (4), which distributes which of the resistors (5) the power will go to next.

Output 1 from the switch (4) corresponds to the slowest blowing speed, and output 3 goes directly to the heater motor (6), i.e. highest blowing speed.

Reasons why the VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113 heater motor does not work

The reasons why a fresh flow of cold air in summer or a hot stream in winter does not come from the air ducts of your VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 can be of two types:

mechanical
electric

Let's look at them in more detail.

Mechanical reasons why the VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113 heater fan does not work

First of all, mechanical reasons include clogging of the air duct.

As you can see in the photo, leaves, branches and other debris get under the casing and clog the air duct of the heater motor. Debris can get into the section with the blades itself and jam the stove fan. Usually before this, a whistle or grinding noise is heard from under the soot space.

Mechanical reasons for the inoperability of the stove motor include jamming of the blades due to improper installation of the stove fan housing. When removing the stove motor, the latches securing the two parts of the housing are often damaged. And if these parts are not firmly fixed to each other, then there will be a gap between them and the air flow that should go into the cabin will fall into this gap. Also, parts of the housing may generally jam the motor blades, then it will not spin at all.

Electrical heater fan problems

In this section, we will consider the circuit to the VAZ heater fan by components.

Fuse

Let's follow the scheme given at the beginning of the post. If your heater fan does not work together with the heated rear window, then the problem is 100% in the fuse.

Check fuse f7 in the mounting block, if it is ok, then use a multimeter to see if the plus is coming to it from the ignition switch unloading relay.

To do this, with the ignition on, place one multimeter probe on the fuse and the other on the car body. If everything is in order, look at the circuit from the fuse to the speed switch and the heating switch.

Heater fan speed switch

We figured out the fuse - let's move on. And then we have the stove motor speed switch. To check it, remove the connector from it. The connector has three inputs nearby and one is located, as if separately from them. We connect any of these three inputs with a wire to the one that stands separately. If the motor starts working, then the speed switch is to blame; if not, we move on.

Additional resistors

If the fan works, but only at the third (fastest) speed, then the additional resistors are to blame. In the third mode, power is supplied directly to the fan, bypassing additional resistors, so it does not work in other modes.

Heater motor VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113

If checking all the components listed above shows they are working, the reason is in the stove motor itself. Most likely it is burned out or has a bad mass. To check, we remove it (read how to do this here) and connect it directly to the battery (the black wire screwed to the body is a minus). If it works, it's a bad mass. If it doesn't work, we change the motor.

Checking and replacing DTOZH

There are several options for diagnosing the device - the first one:

The negative probe from the voltmeter must be connected to the engine and turn on the ignition.
Using a tester, it is necessary to determine what voltage parameter is generated during movement.
If the DTOZH is working, then the voltage should be at least 12 volts when the battery is fully charged. If the obtained indicators are lower, it is necessary to replace or repair the device.

Second diagnostic method:

You will need to set the multimeter to voltmeter mode - measurements are carried out in the range from 100 Ohms to 10 kOhms. Also prepare a thermometer that can measure temperatures greater than one hundred degrees. The regulator should be removed and placed in a container with antifreeze.
You need to warm up the coolant. As a result of an increase in temperature indicators, you need to monitor the readings given by the thermometer.
Using a multimeter, you should measure the resistance of the DTOZH at different temperature conditions. The obtained parameters should be compared with those indicated in the table above.

How to make the replacement yourself:

First of all, all the coolant must be drained from the radiator. Then disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, simply unscrew the nut with a wrench and disconnect it.
Next, you need to disconnect the block with wires that connects to the DTOZH.
Use a wrench to completely unscrew the device. Next, the regulator is removed from its seat; as mentioned above, this is the cylinder head exhaust hose. There is a rubber seal on the device itself; it cannot be lost when dismantling the DTOZH, especially if you have a new sensor without a seal.
Then install the new regulator in its seat, in the outlet hose. Using a wrench, tighten the adjuster all the way. After installation and tightening, the previously disconnected wiring harness should be connected to the DTOZH. The final step in this process is to pour the antifreeze back into the radiator and reinstall the disconnected negative battery terminal.

VAZ 2109 and 21099 cars are equipped with a variety of sensors and regulators designed to ensure proper operation of the power unit as a whole. One of such devices is the sensor for turning on the VAZ 2109 carburetor fan, as well as the DTOZH - antifreeze temperature controller. Find out more about the devices in this article.

Where is the fan switch located?

On all VAZ cars with a carburetor engine, the fan switch sensor is located on the radiator housing. That is, to find this device, just open the hood and find a mechanism similar to a nut with contacts on the side of the cooling radiator.

Heating the threaded part directly in the coolant leads to the closure of the contacts. In turn, the voltage from the battery is supplied to the electric motor, which drives the fan.

Description of DTOZH and DVV

Where is the fan located and turned on in 2109 with an engine injector or carburetor, what should I do if the device does not work? First, let's look at the basic questions regarding the purpose, device and principle of operation.

Purpose and functions

The main purpose of the DVV is to activate and deactivate the ventilation device on the engine radiator in order to cool the power unit. The device turns the fan on and off based on the temperature of the liquid in the cooling system. On injection machines, this is DTOZH; turning the fan on and off is controlled by the brain according to the readings of this sensor.

As for the TOZh controller in the VAZ 21093, this device is intended to display readings about the antifreeze temperature on the car’s dashboard in the cabin. With its help, the driver can find out about possible overheating of the power unit.

Location

As for the location, in models 2108, 2109 and 21099 the DTOZH is located between the engine cylinder head and the thermostat, in particular, on the intake hose. The DVV is installed in the threaded hole of the expansion tank with coolant. If you look in the direction of travel of the car, the refrigerant container is installed on the right.

Principle of operation

First, let's look at the operating principle of the antifreeze temperature controller. This device is a thermistor-resistor that operates with a negative coefficient. The amount of resistance in this case can be measured as a result of a decrease or increase in the temperature range. When the car engine heats up, the resistance on the device decreases, and when the power unit cools down, this value increases. For example, when the engine is fully warmed up, the resistance value on the device is 180 Ohms, and at low negative temperatures (-40 degrees) this figure will increase to 100,700 Ohms.

When the driver activates the ignition by turning the key in the lock, the control module (ECU) begins to supply voltage to the controller using a resistor. The DTOZH itself, as mentioned above, is a thermistor; accordingly, the incoming voltage will change in accordance with the temperature of the liquid. When this value decreases, the control module analyzes this, according to which the required volume of fuel for injection into the cylinders is determined. As the car engine warms up, the volume of fuel used for injection will drop.

General characteristics of the model

Dream car in the 90s

The dimensions of the car have changed somewhat due to the lengthening of the wing and enlargement of the hood. In addition, a completely new, improved VAZ radiator grille and, of course, an updated dashboard appeared. The length of the VAZ 21099 compared to other cars in this group has increased by 20 cm.

The VAZ 21099, like other models of this family, has many advantages:

it is capable of developing a fairly high speed;

has excellent controllability when driving;

Stable on completely different types of roads.

Methods for checking DTOZH

How to check the TOZ index on your own? To do this, you can use one of several methods; diagnostics are performed using a multimeter.

First, the negative probe of the tester should be connected to the cylinder head, and then activate the ignition by turning the key in the lock.
Then, using a multimeter, you need to determine exactly what voltage appears at the output.
If the controller is working, then the value of this parameter should be at least 12 volts, of course, if the battery is fully charged. If the diagnostics showed that the obtained values were lower, then you need to do repairs or change the regulator (the author of the video about diagnostics is the Mechanical Technician channel).

Another check option:

To implement it, you will need to configure the tester in voltmeter operating mode. The measurement procedure should be carried out in the operating range from 100 Ohm to 10 kOhm. In addition, for diagnosis you will need a thermometer, and it is important that it can determine a temperature value of more than 100 degrees. The controller itself is removed from its seat and lowered into a reservoir with refrigerant, which you will heat. This point must be taken into account when choosing a container for coolant.
Now you will need to warm up the refrigerant in the system. When the temperature value increases, you need to carefully monitor the values produced by the tester and the thermometer placed in the container.
Using a tester, you will need to check the fluid resistance level at different temperatures. The readings obtained as a result of the diagnosis must be compared with the normalized ones, which are indicated in the table.

Photo gallery “Self-diagnosis”

Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

For what reasons may the device stop functioning:

Internal damage to the contact located inside the device. In practice, as a result of prolonged use, this contact may break, and intensive use of the DTOZH may lead to the appearance of cracks on it. If the reason lies in a break, then this is fraught with complete breakdown of the controller - the sensor will simply burn out. If the problem is cracks, then the device may work, but not correctly. Due to the lack of contact, the controller will transmit incorrect information about the liquid, that is, incorrect values will be displayed on the instrument panel.
Another reason is damage to the device’s insulation. If the device insulation is broken, the controller may operate with short circuits. Short circuits in its operation can cause complete failure of the device.
There is a break in the electrical circuit near the controller. Due to damaged wiring, the device will not be able to transmit antifreeze data to the dashboard. Accordingly, if the engine overheats, the driver may not even know about it.

What symptoms can you use to determine if this device is not working:

The car engine became difficult to start when hot. That is, you can start it in the morning, but when the unit warms up, problems appear.
Increased fuel consumption. You can only identify such a sign when you carefully monitor the car’s performance. The increased fuel consumption is due to overload of the power unit when it is warmed up.
If the DTOZH breaks down and no longer functions, then the control panel will display incorrect data on the engine temperature. It usually takes no more than 10 minutes to fully warm up the internal combustion engine. If 10 minutes after starting you notice that the arrow on the indicator on the dashboard has not gone up, then most likely the DTOZH needs to be changed (video shot by Dmitry Yakovlev).

Instructions for replacing the TOZh sensor with your own hands

Replacing the DTOZH is carried out as follows:

First you need to turn off the ignition and open the hood of your car.
Next, you need to place a container under the drain hole of the engine radiator; all the coolant will collect in it. Open the plug and drain the antifreeze, then find the DTOZH and disconnect the connector from it.
Using a wrench, you will need to dismantle the controller. The device is removed from its installation location. When removing you can see the rubberized seal, when you remove the regulator, do not lose it. If you notice that the rubber band is very worn, it will need to be replaced.
After this, you will need to install the new controller in the installation location. Using a wrench, screw the device all the way, and then connect the connector with the wire that you disconnected when dismantling. Now all you have to do is pour the working fluid into the radiator device and turn on the ignition, start the engine and check the operation of the device.

How to balance an impeller

There are two balancing options:

The first is to twist a thin wire onto the fan blade. See on which side the imbalance is more pronounced. Try to align the impeller with a smooth movement until the extraneous sounds disappear.
The second is to insert an axis into the hole, the diameter of which is similar to the diameter of the hole. Install the impeller on two supports located in a horizontal position. If there is an imbalance, you can get rid of it by grinding a heavier blade, or by gluing a small weight to a blade with less mass.

You can replace the four-blade impeller (this is a standard part) with an eight-blade one.

On sale you can find both individual impellers and complete with a motor. The latter, naturally, are much more expensive. Therefore, you should not choose the second option if the motor is working properly (usually it just needs to be lubricated so that it works better). You should not buy the cheapest impellers. They usually have minor defects.