The fan does not work on the VAZ 2115 - common reasons


Operating principle

A fan is a device that allows you to increase the efficiency of a cooling radiator. The radiator takes heat from the engine and releases it into the air. This process is accelerated by blowing through the blades of an electric fan.

The coolant flows through a closed, sealed system. Its task is to remove excess heat from overheated engine parts. Hot antifreeze flows into the radiator, is cooled here and returns back. While in the radiator, the coolant passes through a system of thin tubes. The incoming air flow while the car is moving helps to quickly remove excess heat from the engine compartment.

But when the car is stuck in traffic or idling, the air flow stops cooling it. In this case, the cooling system may not cope with its task. An electric radiator fan is designed to create air flow artificially. The temperature for turning on the fan on a VAZ 2114 is 85 degrees Celsius.

Having received a signal that the permissible temperature value has been exceeded, the sensor starts the device’s operating mechanism. An artificial air flow is created that removes heat from the radiator. The mechanism operates until the temperature level drops to an optimal state.

The thermal switch then receives a signal that the normal temperature has been reached and turns off the fan.

The device consists of four plastic blades that are mounted on the EDF shaft. A special controller regulates the automatic operating mode. The thermostat is equipped with a solid filler that is sensitive to temperature changes.

There are main and additional valves. When the temperature reaches 85 degrees Celsius, the main valve opens.

Causes of malfunctions

The fan may not turn on for the following reasons:

  • the fan drive (electric motor) is faulty;
  • fuse is blown;
  • the relay has failed;
  • broken electrical wiring;
  • lack of contact in the temperature sensor connector;
  • The temperature sensor is faulty.

Search for reasons

Diagnosis of a fan malfunction should begin with the fan itself. To do this, disconnect the connector on the fan and connect it, observing the polarity, directly to the battery terminals. If it turns on, it means the drive is working, the reason needs to be looked for further. If the fan does not work, this is the reason. But let's take things in order.

The fan did not turn on. We check the integrity of the wiring and the condition of the contacts on the sensor. If everything is in order, we move on to the fuse and fan relay. They are located under the hood on the left side closer to the driver, in the mounting block.

Fuse F4 is 20A, double, for the sound signal and the cooling fan (it is very easy to check; if there is no sound signal and the fan does not work, then most likely it is the culprit).

You can check the fuse with an ordinary autotester. With relays the situation is more complicated. To make sure that this is not the case, it is better to get a one hundred percent working relay somewhere and temporarily install it in the socket for testing. If the fan does not work even with it, we go to the sensor.

If the sensor is de-energized, the controller must start the fan in emergency mode for constant blowing. Disconnect the connector from it and turn on the ignition. Turning on the fan will indicate that the sensor has failed and requires replacement.

When is it necessary to change a fan?

If the cause is still in the fan itself, you can try to repair it. The problem is usually the brushes or bearings. But it also happens that the electric motor fails due to a short circuit or break in the windings. In such cases, it is better not to experiment and replace the entire drive.

It is strictly forbidden to operate a vehicle with a non-working cooling fan. Overheating of the coolant will inevitably lead to the destruction of rubber pipes and hoses, as well as cylinder head gaskets and valve covers. In addition, high engine temperature can cause destruction of the piston group elements.

How much does a cooling fan cost on a VAZ 2114

You can buy a new cooling fan for a VAZ 2114 for 1500-2500 rubles. Replacing this part at a service station will cost 300-400 rubles. But you don’t have to spend money on this. Dismantling the old fan and installing a new one at home will take no more than 30 minutes.

Where is the regulator relay located?

It is located in an additional block.

4 – electric fan relay;

5 – electric fuel pump;

6 – ignition relay.

Relays and fuses may have a different order. Therefore, you need to focus on the color of the wires. The main relay is always located at the bottom. Find the relay that has a thin pink wire with a black stripe coming from it. It comes from the main relay through pin 85. Be careful! Do not confuse this with the red thin wire, which also has a black stripe and extends from the controller. And find a thick white wire with a black stripe (pin 87). This is where the cooling fan relay is located. There is always a fuse next to it. It is an element of the chain.

Cooling fan diagnostics

If signals appear on the dashboard indicating that the permissible temperature level in the cooling system has been exceeded, this may indicate that the fan on the VAZ 2114 is not working. The main symptom of the malfunction is that the mechanism does not start even with a significant increase in temperature. It is urgent to turn off the engine to prevent its elements from overheating.

The engine should not be operated with a faulty electric cooling fan. This may damage the cylinder head.

If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2114 does not work, the following malfunctions may be the cause of the breakdown:

  • The fan switch sensor on a VAZ 2114 has failed.
  • Lack of contact at the sensor connector.
  • The wiring has broken.
  • Electric fan relay faulty.
  • The fuse has blown.
  • Damage to the device's electric motor drive.

Unplug the device. Connect it to the battery terminal. Maintaining polarity. If a direct connection to an energy source starts the electric motor, then the drive is working. There may be problems with the wiring, the fuse, or the temperature sensor.

Now it’s time to diagnose the fuse. You don't even have to open the plastic box to do this. If the relay malfunctions, the horn stops working at the same time as the fan. Therefore, if you notice the loss of the sound signal, it means that the fuse has definitely blown. You can find it in the engine compartment in a small plastic box. We release the cover, pressed by two latches, take out the burnt fuse with tweezers and replace it with a new one.

But diagnosing a relay is quite difficult. Especially for those who are exclusively “you” with auto electrics. To check functionality, the easiest way is to find a working relay and temporarily install it. If, after installing a new device, the fan begins to work properly, then it is time to replace the old one.

To diagnose the temperature sensor that supplies a signal to the radiator, you need to disconnect the connector from the sensor and start the ignition. The emergency mode will start, in which the electric fan will start blowing. If the fan starts late when the connector is disconnected, the sensor is most likely faulty. Replacing it will take no more than five minutes. You just need to unscrew two bolts using a Phillips screwdriver and install a new device in its place.

Even if a malfunction has occurred in the VAZ 2114 fan itself, this does not mean that it is time to change it. Sometimes you can simply replace a damaged bearing or brushes. But if the electric motor is faulty, it is much easier to purchase a new mechanism.

Principle of operation

The two-contact temperature sensor on the VAZ 2110–2115 family is a resistor mechanism with a negative temperature coefficient. That is, in the cold its resistance is high, and when heated, on the contrary, it is low. During operation, the DTOZ transmits impulses to the ECU. The device has 2 contacts: one for communication with the control unit, the second for starting/stopping the radiator fan.

Table 1. Units of measurement of water temperature and data on DTOZH VAZ 2115

Degrees t°CResistance (Ohm)
100177
401459
09420
−2028680
−40100700

Information for self-checking with the meter

Simply put, the VAZ 2115 temperature sensor (8-valve injector) performs one of the functions of a damper (choke), which was traditionally located on carburetor cars. Having received readings from the DTOZH, the ECU system ensures that the cold engine is injected with a rich fuel mixture, and the hot engine is injected with a lean mixture.

How to make a replacement

If you are convinced that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fan motor, then the easiest way to carry out repairs is to completely replace the device. In this case, there is no point in spending money on a new casing. It will be cheaper to just buy a new electric motor.

Necessary tool

No special tool is needed. The work is carried out simply using 8 and 10 socket wrenches and a Phillips screwdriver.

Step-by-step algorithm of work

You can replace the cooling fan motor without removing the radiator.

  1. Disconnect the connector and device wiring harness from the casing.

  2. Unscrew the mounting bolts using a 10mm wrench.

  3. Unscrew the lower fastening nut.

  4. Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the mounting nut from the radiator.
  5. Using a size 8 socket wrench, unscrew the two pressure plate nuts.

  6. Remove the plate.

  7. Remove the electric fan along with the casing.

  8. Let's start dismantling the electric motor. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts and remove the engine along with the blades.

  9. Using a screwdriver, pry up the lock washer.

  10. And take it off.

  11. Remove the impeller.

  12. Put the impeller on the new motor. Make sure that the shaft pin fits into the impeller groove.
  13. Reassemble in reverse order.

At what temperature does the fan on the VAZ 2114 turn on?

Post by nick2803 » Jul 12, 2012, 7:46 pm

Post by Plimut » Jul 12, 2012 7:52 pm

Post by Meteor555 » Jul 12, 2012, 7:54 pm

Post by nick2803 » Jul 12, 2012, 7:59 pm

Meteor555, Buddy, don't worry. Everything is fine, this is what works on the basin, my temperature was constantly at 13 at the same mark))) Really, don’t worry. I’ll just recommend one thing for prevention (it helps and won’t be superfluous) go to the car wash and properly (reducing the Karcher pressure) rinse the radiator. give the guys 150-200 rubles and let them properly remove the shit from the radiator.

How to replace a temperature sensor

Before starting work, you need to partially drain the coolant from the cylinder block.

  1. Remove the wire.

  2. Using a 21 wrench, unscrew the temperature sensor.

  3. Take it off.

  4. Install the new one in reverse order.
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