Electrical circuit for powering the fuel pump VAZ 2110

The VAZ 2110 car with an injector system, even several years after the model was discontinued, is still very popular among car enthusiasts. The main reasons for this are the ease of maintenance and reliability of the machine. However, there are also negative aspects: the VAZ 2110 with an injector system very often has problems with electronics. The electrical circuit is quite complex for a Russian car and has 75 elements.

However, the weakest point is the fuel pump.

Its electrical circuit looks like this:

The main one is the fuel pump relay; all the necessary fuses are installed there.
Next, the electrical circuit diverges from one of the fuses to the diagnostic block and the device itself.
From the next to the main relay and injectors.
Next, the electrical circuit goes to the electronic control unit.
Also, the fuel pump electrical circuit goes to the battery.

Thus, it turns out that the VAZ 2110 with an injector, the pump contains 4 electrical parts. In case of failures related to the operation of the pump, they should be checked first.

Electric fuel pump VAZ 2110 and everything about it

In passenger cars with injection engines, electric fuel pumps are used. They are installed inside the fuel tank. Some brands of cars have two fuel pumps. The VAZ 2110 electric fuel pump first performs work under low pressure when the engine is running at high speeds, and the second under high pressure at low speeds. This article will describe not only the fuel pump itself, but also the entire electrical circuit for connecting the VAZ 2110 fuel pump.

Signs and Symptoms of a Malfunctioning Fuel Pressure Regulator

the engine stalls at idle;
engine power is greatly reduced;
when accelerating, it is not possible to achieve normal dynamics;
the car reacts poorly to pressing the gas pedal;
fuel consumption suddenly increases greatly;
the amount of carbon dioxide emissions increases;
the crankshaft rotation speed changes.

All these problems arise due to the fact that the regulator becomes clogged or completely clogged over time. Another common cause of failure is weakening of the spring, leading to a strong decrease in pressure. In the absence of normal pressure, fuel supply decreases, power decreases and controllability deteriorates. Such problems are especially common on Ladas - Kalina and Priora, as well as on cars of the 2110, 2112, 2114, 2115 series.

To check the part, you need to carefully inspect it itself, the vacuum hose and all connections. Any leaks found must be corrected. It is also recommended to check the membrane. Disconnect the tube that goes from the RTD to the receiver and shake it. If no gasoline comes out from inside and there is no strong odor, then the membrane is in order.

RTD in diesel engines

Diesel vehicles running on the Common Rail system are also equipped with a pressure regulator. It fits into the fuel rail or is located on the high pressure fuel pump housing. The principle of operation is approximately the same. A special valve diverts unused fuel into the return line, preventing excessive loading.

In diesel engines, the regulator has a slightly different structure than in gasoline engines. It consists of a solenoid and a rod, which rests against a ball to shut off the return line. The design protects the engine from hydraulic vibrations and, as a result, from rapid wear.

Purpose

Electric fuel pump VAZ 2110

The principle operation of an electric fuel pump is based on pushing fuel under pressure into the engine. Conventional VAZ fuel pumps suck gasoline from the gas tank; a small gap from the pump to the carburetor allows it to operate at low pressure. Electric fuel pumps of the first VAZ cars worked at the same speed. The industry has launched the production of pumps that meet the growing requirements of the automotive industry; now their operation is completely dependent on the speed of the engine.

Note. The vehicle's electronic system controls the operation of the fuel pump. It corresponds to several factors: ambient temperature, what position the throttle is in, and the composition of the exhaust gases.

Electric fuel pumps operate under pressure, resulting in increased noise and rapid heating. For these reasons, they are installed in the gas tank. Gasoline cools and muffles the sound of the running pump.

Signs of fuel pump wear

A faulty fuel pump either works intermittently, that is, incorrectly, or does not function at all. Problems may occur due to severe wear or failure of other system elements.

Signs of a fuel pump malfunction that require checking its functionality are:

engine failure to start;
uneven operation of the power unit, it stalls and loses power;
extraneous noises in the operation of the fuel pump or their complete absence.

Without diagnostics, it will not be possible to determine the nature of the malfunction, and during the test you must always move from the simplest to the most complex.

Work process

Electric fuel pump for VAZ 2110

The driver turns on the ignition switch, a signal is sent from the on-board computer to the electric motor of the pump, in which an electric charge occurs. A motor starts working inside the pump itself, creating a working pressure level in the fuel supply system in a few seconds. After three seconds, the on-board computer does not give a signal to start the engine, and the pump motor automatically turns off. At this time, you can hear the operation of the electric fuel pump. In the first seconds of the pump starting to operate, gasoline enters it through the tube. The fuel exits through a special one-way valve installed by the manufacturer, which traps debris and impurities.

Possible reasons

Possible causes of motor failure may be:

Accumulator battery;
Fuel pump;
Sensors (crankshaft and camshaft);
Candles;
Signaling;
Fuel distribution system;
Ignition.

Let us now consider them separately.

Accumulator battery

Even a novice driver should understand that it is impossible to start a car without power. Therefore, your first action should be to check the condition of the battery.

Battery

If the car does not want to start, lift the hood and look at the battery indicator. If it is red, this indicates the need to charge the battery.

After checking the condition of the battery and determining that it is not the cause of the problem, move on.

Fuel pump

Even if there is good starting current from the battery, the car may still not start. The likely source may be the fuel pump.

The engine of your VAZ 2110 is silent because the system does not have the gasoline necessary to start it. Its absence is due to a non-working pump that did not pump fuel from the gas tank.

It is easy to check such a malfunction. To do this, make sure there is a spark at the candles. If it is, but the engine does not start, then the cause is the pump.

Fuel pump

Sensors

It’s not uncommon for crankshaft or camshaft sensors to be the cause. These devices are largely identical, but are located on the top and bottom of the car.

If the battery is charged and the pump is working, then check the condition of the sensors. You can do this at a service station or perform diagnostics yourself. When turning the key in the ignition, check if there is a spark at the spark plugs. If not, then one of the sensors may be the cause.

Candles

The spark plugs provide a spark that ignites the air-fuel mixture.

Candles

Spark plugs become dirty, become covered with soot, and fail with use or under constant loads. Therefore, check their condition, clean, rinse.

The most effective way to check is to replace the old spark plugs with new ones and start the car. If the engine starts, then leave the new spark plugs in place. If problems continue, we look for further reasons.

Signaling

It is rare, but it still sometimes happens that the ignition system cannot work effectively due to an alarm.

If other measures don't help, check this option. Only the principle of exclusion of causes will help here. When a check of all previous causes shows that everything is fine, the alarm may ultimately become the culprit.

Fuel distribution mechanism

If you have an injection engine on your VAZ 2110, it is worth visiting a service station, where you will be diagnosed using specialized equipment. It's difficult to do this on your own.

But when it comes to a carburetor power unit, here it is quite possible to try to solve the problem with your own hands:

First of all, check the condition of the fuel filter. It is located in the break in the line that goes to the carburetor;
If a filter is clogged, it must be replaced;
Remove the carburetor, wash it after disassembling it. Clean fuel is used for flushing;
Replace the gaskets with new ones. They are not difficult or expensive to purchase at any auto parts store;
Pump gasoline after the repair work has been carried out.

In order to prevent and prevent problems, try not to use low octane fuel. For the VAZ 2110, the best option is A92 or A95.

Ignition

It is possible that your car's ignition has failed, causing the car to not start properly.

In this case, we are talking about late or early ignition. Such troubles arise due to vibrations. When the car is running, the distributor cap can gradually rotate. As a result, the spark is supplied unevenly, the fuel does not burn completely in the cylinders, and engine “triple” occurs.

Egnition lock

The ignition is adjusted by rotating the distributor cap. You need to move it clockwise or counterclockwise.

Reasons for failure and replacement

VAZ 2110 connecting an electric fuel pump

Fuel pump failure occurs for several reasons:

driving with an empty gas tank;
failure to replace the fuel filter on time and much more.

Due to non-compliance with such simple rules, the electric fuel pump wears out. Therefore, malfunctions in the fuel system occur prematurely.

Note: it is necessary to change fuel filters on time, especially when filling with low-quality gasoline. Follow the main rule: the gas tank should always be more than half full.

Preparation for repair

Before starting repairs and replacing the electric fuel pump, you must:

disconnect the negative terminal on the battery;
remove the cap from the gas tank to prevent the creation of rarefied vapors;
check the fuel level, it should be at the middle level in the gas tank, but no more;
You should also place a fire extinguisher nearby, just check its expiration date in advance.

To relieve pressure in the pipeline, you must start the engine and leave it running until it stops completely.

Note: work must be carried out using a lamp with a protective cap. You need to prepare clean rags and plastic containers in advance for the fuel pump to be removed, as there will be residual fuel in it.

After completing the preparatory work, recline the rear seat and remove the protective cap of the gas tank.

Replacement

VAZ 2110 electric fuel pump diagram

Carry out work carefully, legibly and consistently:

disconnect the gas tank connector;
loosen the clamp;
unscrew the tubes using special wrenches;
remove the rubber gaskets;
unscrew the eight bolts on the body;
remove the sealing ring;
remove the fuel pump.

Note: replace the rubber gaskets on both pipeline fittings using a repair kit. The fuel pump must be placed on a pre-prepared rag or in a plastic container.

VAZ 2110 electric fuel pump and its removal

The pump is gradually pulled up and tilted towards the backs of the seats to avoid deformation of the float. Remaining gasoline may spill during this work. The last thing is to remove the rubber gasket. When replacing not the entire module, but only the fuel pump, you will have to spend time and effort:

remove the locking spring from one guide;
compress the fixation plates;
disconnect the module;
remove the fence mesh;
disconnect the terminals from the pump and fuel level sensor;
remove the polypropylene fuel pipe, it is connected securely, so you will need to act carefully, but with effort;
remove and replace the pump.

Note: replacing the fuel pump must be done with replacing the fuel filter.

Assembly

VAZ 2110 fuel pump wiring diagram

VAZ 21102 electric fuel pump

The operation of the new fuel pump is checked. The engine starts, you need to let it run at low speeds. Drive through the territory using different modes, increasing the speed, decreasing it, within the limits allowed by the space. Return to the garage. On site, check the tightness of the disconnected parts again.

Note: all repair work must be carried out in compliance with fire safety measures.

Replacing an electric fuel pump with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to carefully study the instructions and be patient and attentive. Before carrying out this work, you need to view the video and photographs. Photos can also be used during work. Place them in the required sequence. The price of a fuel pump, repair kit, fuel filter is within 2000 rubles. Carrying out work on replacing a fuel pump does not require great qualifications. Therefore, a motorist of any category can handle it. After completing the work, all rags must be collected and disposed of. Old cuffs and pads must also be disposed of.

How to remove and change the fuel pump on a Priora

To remove the fuel pump on a Priora car, you will have to do a lot of preparation. Since the system is quite complex, when dismantling it you will have to interact with many parts of the machine. You should start by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. Replacing the device for supplying fuel to the engine is carried out as part of dismantling the fuel module:

Open the back door. Look under the sofa cushion for plastic plugs. Remove them by pressing lightly. You will see the sofa fasteners. Unscrew the nut with a “10” socket wrench. Pull the fastener towards you. Do the same action on the other side. Pull out the sofa cushion. If necessary, remove the backrests, although they will not interfere much. Place a basin or other container on the floor of the body. Find a black square metal hatch that is covered with sound insulation. Fold back the fabric and begin dismantling the hatch. Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the screws. Remove the hatch. You will see the top of the fuel module and some wires on top of it. Press the latch that holds the harness and disconnect the wires from the module. There are also two small hoses connected to the fuel supply system cover. One is responsible for supplying gasoline, the other for shipping. Hold the hose directly near the place where it is attached to the module, and then turn it until you see the green inserts on top - these are the clamps. Clamping them, pull the hose towards you. Drain the fuel into a container. Unscrew the fastening nuts that hold the pressure plate using a “10” socket wrench. Remove the pressure plate. Now comes the careful process of dismantling the module

Please note that in the immediate vicinity there is a part of the fuel sensor that should not be touched. Therefore, when removing the fuel supply system assembly, try to make your movements as smooth as possible. Immediately point the module over the container - gasoline will drain from it.

Next, in order to release the fuel module, do the following:

Disconnect the negative wire from the fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the harness by pressing the latch.
Disconnect the wires from the pump.
Press out the clamps that hold the fuel sensor in one position.
Slide the flammable substance sensor along the grooves and then remove it.

Before replacing, you should check the fuel supply system assembly.

How to check the fuel pump on a Priora car

According to AvtoVAZ, a standard pump for a VAZ-2170 should pump 60 liters of gasoline per hour. To check it on your car, do the following:

Turn the key in the lock, turning on the ignition.
Remove the fuel pump relay using a gentle movement.
Place a jumper between pins 30 and 87.
Listen for the familiar sound of fuel pumping. If you hear that pumping is proceeding normally, you can turn the key back. To “fix” the car, change the fuse.

If the engine fuel supply does not stop, do the following:

Check the voltage at the pump connector using a multimeter.
Check the ground supply to the pump chip.
Clean the fuel module from gasoline (it’s even worth wiping it with a rag!), then apply +12 V to it. This is a “direct” test of its performance.

Problems with fuel pumps VAZ 2110

On any passenger car with a gasoline engine, the gas pump serves to supply fuel under pressure from the fuel tank to the metering device - depending on the modification of the engine on VAZ cars, the fuel system can be carburetor or injection.

The fuel pump (BN) on carburetor internal combustion engines of the 2110 car is located behind the valve cover, next to the distributor-distributor; on a car with an injection engine, it is located in the fuel tank (submersible type). If the BN begins to malfunction, the engine does not pull or develop speed, and in many cases the engine cannot be started at all.

Removing the pumping unit

Before starting work, you must disconnect the terminal from the battery. This will prevent damage to electrical equipment. In addition, replacing the fuel pump may cause a fire.

Let's prepare tools and materials. To remove the VAZ-2110 fuel pump, you need the following:

Screwdriver.
10mm socket wrench.
Collar.
Open-end wrench 13.
Rags.

The device itself is located under the rear seat cushion. To get to the installation location of the fuel pump 2110, you need to remove the seat. Under the casing we find a hatch. We unscrew the hatch. Disconnect the electrical drive connector.

Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the tips of the fuel pipes. We pull off the pipes. Using a spanner, unscrew the 8 nuts around the perimeter of the clamping ring. Release the flange.

There is a gasket under the pressure ring of the fuel pump 2110. The gasket is removed. It is better to change worn tires.

Then we raise the VAZ fuel pump together with the float. Gasoline will leak from the body. To avoid staining the interior, place a rag. There will be up to 1 liter of gasoline left in the old building. Drain it into the tank.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. There is an arrow on the top of the cover. It should point towards the trunk. This is the correct pump position.

When replacing, do not forget to remove the float and level sensor.

These spare parts are installed on the new structure.

All operations, including preparation, will take less than an hour. After replacement, perform a test. Start the engine. Finally, you should check the fuel pump, make sure the connections are tight and there are no leaks.

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

The fuel pump on a car is designed to supply fuel to the combustion chamber. Its operation is controlled using a relay. On a VAZ (depending on the model), the fuel supply unit can be electrical or mechanical - it all depends on the fuel supply system. On a fuel-injected car, the fuel pump is located in the tank. When the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the unit and it begins to pump fuel. If the required pressure is created in the system, the relay automatically turns off the fuel pump - the engine is ready to start.

Fuel pump circuit (electric)

The design of the electric fuel pump 2110 itself is quite simple - the unit is an electric motor, which is supplied with 12 Volt power. The BN is mounted in a housing, and a mesh is installed at its inlet - a coarse filter. The filter element prevents dirt particles from penetrating into the pump housing, thereby protecting the device from clogging and possible breakdown.

The electrical circuit of the VAZ fuel pump contains the following elements:

ignition;
fuse;
relay;
wiring;
the engine control unit.

When you turn the ignition key, power is supplied through the relay to the BN terminals, and the pump begins to pump gasoline. After the input line of the fuel line is filled with gasoline, the ECU (control unit) through a relay gives a command to turn off the voltage - the fuel system is ready to start the engine, all that remains is to crank the engine with the starter.

Pinout BN VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115

— block headlights; — gearmotors for headlight cleaners*; - fog lights*; — ambient temperature sensor; - sound signals; — engine compartment lamp switch; — electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; — generator; — low oil level indicator sensor; — washer fluid level sensor; — front brake pad wear sensor; — wire tips connected to the common windshield washer pump**; — windshield washer pump; — headlight washer pump*; — wire ends for connecting to the rear window washer pump on VAZ-2113 and VAZ-2114 cars; — low oil pressure indicator sensor; — engine compartment lighting lamp; — wire lug for connecting to the wiring harness of the engine control system; — gear motor for windshield wiper; — starter; — a block connected to the wiring harness of the ignition system on carburetor cars; — coolant temperature indicator sensor; — reversing light switch; — low brake fluid level indicator sensor; - accumulator battery; — low coolant level indicator sensor; — relay for turning on fog lights; - mounting block; — brake light switch; — plug socket for a portable lamp; — hydrocorrector scale illumination lamp; — switch for the parking brake indicator lamp; — block for connecting a backlight lamp; — switch for instrument lighting lamps; - Understeering's shifter; - hazard warning switch; — front seat heating element relay; — ignition switch; — rear fog light circuit fuse; - fuse for the front seat heating elements; — door lock circuit fuse; — front ashtray illumination lamp; — ignition relay; - cigarette lighter; — glove box lighting lamp; — switch for the glove compartment lighting lamp; — heater fan electric motor; — additional resistor for the heater electric motor; — heater fan switch; - heater switch illumination lamp; — lamp for illuminating the heater levers; — gear motors for electric windows of the front doors; — power window switch for the right front door (located in the right door); — gear motors for locking front door locks; — wires for connecting to the right front speaker; — gearmotors for locking rear doors; — wires for connecting to the right rear speaker; — door lock control unit; — wires for connection to radio equipment; — headlight cleaner switch*; — rear window heating element switch; — relay for turning on the rear fog lights; — block for connection to the heating element of the right front seat; — rear fog light switch; — switch for the heating element of the right front seat; — fog light switch*; — switch for external lighting lamps; — left front seat heating element switch; — block for connection to the heating element of the left front seat; — wires for connecting to the left front speaker; — power window switch for the left front door (located in the left door); — power window switch for the right front door (located in the left door); — wires for connecting to the left rear speaker; — side direction indicators; — courtesy light switches on the front door pillars; — courtesy light switches on the rear door pillars; - lampshade; — ceiling lamp for individual interior lighting; — block for connecting to the wiring harness of the electric fuel pump; — trunk light switch; — instrument cluster; — trunk lighting lamp; — display unit of the on-board control system; - trip computer*; — block for connecting the wiring harness of the engine control system; — rear exterior lights; — rear interior lights; — pads for connecting to the rear window heating element; — license plate lights; — additional brake signal located on the spoiler.

Fuel pump relay VAZ 2110

A relay in any electrical circuit is designed to close and open a circuit; its main role is to protect the elements of the electrical circuit from high inrush current. When starting an internal combustion engine, the current required to crank the starter reaches 80-300 Amps, and if the relay is not installed, any element of the electrical circuit may be damaged.

The VAZ 2110 fuel pump relay is a standard type; inside the plastic case there is an electromagnetic coil with a core; when voltage is applied, the contacts are closed due to the electromagnetic field. Relay 2110 is a four-pin relay, rated for a current of 30 Amps.

No power supplied

As the pinout indicates, there are 4 wires going to the pump:

in the center - plus and minus;
at the edges – fuel level control.

To check whether current is flowing, connect a light bulb (12 V) to the negative and positive contacts and turn on the ignition. If everything is in order, it will flare up. If there is no result, the plus and minus removed from the pump connector are connected in turn to its ground, and then to the relay block.

the lamp (when the negative wire is connected to ground and the ignition is turned on) blinks, then this contact is damaged;
the improvised indicator did not flash - there are problems with the plus.

If the wire is installed on the relay and the lamp lights up, there is a break between it and the pump. Disassemble the harness and replace the faulty wire. You don’t need pinouts in this situation either.

When it turns out that it was the pump motor that burned out, it will have to be replaced - it cannot be repaired.

Where is the fuel pump relay for VAZ 2110 injector?

Often, due to a relay failure, the engine stops starting; to fix the problem, it is necessary to replace the faulty part. The fuel pump relay (RB) of the VAZ 2110 injector is located in the car interior, under the instrument panel, next to the center console. To get to the pump, you need to unscrew the two screws of the protective plastic casing and dismantle it - of the three elements located here, the “relay” responsible for the operation of the pump will be located in the center (in the figure below, number 5).

Device

First of all, you should know the very structure of the heating system in order to clearly understand what and how to repair, because for the VAZ 2110, interruptions in the operation of the heater are a typical phenomenon, and from time to time requiring the intervention of reliable hands - be it a driver or a service station worker.

For stable and high-quality driving in a car, it is recommended not only to be able to use the heating system, but also to understand the heater’s structure. The operating principle of the system can be found here: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/otoplenie/otopitel.html

So, the heating system consists of: 1. The actual heater unit, which provides heating for the interior

It is represented (by importance of details):

An electric motor on which a fan is also attached to pump hot air;
A radiator, without which the entire system does not work. Moreover, unlike the old heater, the radiator of the VAZ 2110 stove of the new model does not have a tap that shuts off the flow of antifreeze (antifreeze) through the radiator. Thus, it is always (whether in winter or in summer) heated. This was done supposedly in order to eliminate leaks that were often observed through this tap, and also to heat the interior as quickly as possible when necessary. In the summer, the supply ventilation goes past the radiator, but still some VAZ 2110 owners, when repairing the stove, add this tap to the system;
There are three dampers. One is responsible for air intake recirculation, the second opens/closes the heater duct, the third, the most important for the interior, controls the heater;
A resistor that regulates the blowing speed.

All parts are packaged in a block with additional valves, shields, and fittings. This entire device is housed in a housing and is located under the hood closer to the instrument panel.

2. The next block represents the air ducts of the VAZ 2110. They extend directly from the stove and provide:

Interior ventilation through central nozzles;
The air distributor works to supply heat (or regular air for ventilation);
Two air ducts are directed to the rear of the cabin;
There is a whole system of five nozzles for heating the feet;
Two side air ducts provide heating for the side windows and part of the interior, providing better heating;
Two nozzles for ventilation.

This, in a nutshell, is the principle of distribution of hot or cold air inside the VAZ 2110.

3. The electronic control unit for the stove operates from the passenger compartment. It includes:

Controller handle. This device allows you to set the temperature in the cabin that the stove unit should produce. It turns on by turning the knob and sets the temperature from the air, the temperature of which will correspond to that outside, up to 30°C. Most often, this part is called the ACS controller (automatic heater control system);
The temperature sensor is responsible for turning on the heater when the temperature in the cabin drops by 2 degrees against the set one. The sensor has a microfan, and if the control knob is in position A, then the micromotor in the stove block turns on and the damper begins to operate, ensuring proper heating. Therefore, before starting repairs of the heating system, the operation of this sensor is usually checked. It is located next to the heating lamp on the ceiling of the VAZ 2110. Since it is not repairable, in the event of a breakdown this device should be replaced immediately.

This material will help you quickly and efficiently replace the stove fan in a VAZ 2110: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/otoplenie/zamena-ventilyatora-pechki.html

Ceiling interior air temperature sensor

Gasoline pump VAZ 2110 injector price

Electric fuel pumps 2110 are produced by various manufacturers; they can be sold either assembled with a housing, or the electric motors themselves can be sold separately. It makes sense to change the BN assembly only when the bulb (body) of the device is damaged; more often than not, only the fuel pump motor itself requires replacement, since it basically stops working.

Main manufacturers of fuel pumps 2110-2112:

For VAZ 2110 injector fuel pumps, the cost may vary; on average, BN can be purchased at a price from 700 to 4500 rubles. The most inexpensive products are produced by Hofer and Pekar; the average price of an electric fuel pump (motor) complete with a Pekar mesh filter is about 800 rubles. The most expensive are Bosch BNs; the cost of the assembled device is 4300-4600 rubles.

Performance check

Checking its performance will help make sure that the fuel pump has failed. For this you will need:

screwdriver with Phillips bit;
a piece of gas-resistant hose (50–80 cm) with a clamp;
key to 17;
empty 2 liter plastic bottle;
a piece of insulated wire;
stopwatch.

Performance testing is carried out as follows:

We remove the back seat. We lift the carpet and find the gas tank hatch under it. Unscrew the two screws (diagonally).
Once you remove the hatch, you will see the top of the fuel module. Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nut of the outlet fitting. We put a hose on it and secure the connection with a clamp. We lower the other end of the hose into an empty bottle.
Disconnect the pump power connector. Using a piece of wire, we supply power to the positive contact of the device from the corresponding battery terminal. We connect the negative one to ground.
We begin counting the time from the moment the pump starts.

A working fuel injection pump for a VAZ 2110/2112 should pump 1.5 liters of fuel in one minute. If this indicator is lower, the pump must be replaced.

Replacing the fuel pump mesh for VAZ 2110 injector

Russian fuel does not always meet quality requirements, and over time, due to poor gasoline, dirt accumulates in the gas tank in the form of sediment. The debris also clogs the filter screen of the electric fuel pump; due to the accumulated dirt, the fuel does not fully enter the fuel line, causing interruptions in the operation of the internal combustion engine. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to clean or replace the coarse filter, but to get to the mesh, you need to remove the BN.

Before starting disassembly, you should reduce the pressure in the fuel system, otherwise, when unscrewing the fuel line fittings, gasoline may escape in a stream and flood the entire interior of the car. To relieve the pressure, remove the fuse responsible for the operation of the BN, start the engine and wait until it stalls. We replace the VAZ 2110 injector fuel pump mesh as follows:

turn off the ignition;
in the back seat in the cabin we find hinges, and by pulling them, we fold the lower “seats” forward (right and left);
there is a hatch on the bottom under the seat, it is secured with two self-tapping screws;
unscrew the screws and dismantle the hatch;
disconnect the plug from the wires that supply power to the electric fuel pump; to do this, bend the latch and forcefully pull the parts of the connector away from each other;
unscrew the fittings of the fuel pipes - main supply and return (17 mm wrench);
unscrew the nuts of the pressure plate of the used pump (there are 8 fasteners here, 7 mm wrench);
The nuts are small, it is better to put them in some kind of jar so as not to lose them. Remove the plate and remove the pump assembly from the gas tank. You need to remove the fuel pump together with the rubber sealing ring and lift the pump carefully so as not to damage the fuel level sensor. When removing the BN housing, it is necessary to tilt it, otherwise it will not come out of the tank;
remove the screen from the fuel pump and install a new part;
We install the electric fuel pump in place. Here it is important to put the housing in the old places - if you move the used pump, it will be impossible to tighten the fuel line fittings.

Diagnostics

If you cannot start the car, but the starter motor is working normally and there is a spark, check the fuel supply. If the pump is running and gasoline is flowing, you should continue to determine the cause. To initially check if the pump is working, simply open the tank cap, turn on the ignition and listen for the characteristic pumping sound.

Do not replace components immediately; first check the fuse for the fuel pump motor. Even if it is working, check the power with a multimeter or tester and check the relay. If the power is on, pump replacement is inevitable.

This is even more difficult if the pump is running, i.e. buzzes when turned on. First check the condition of the filter and clean it if it is clogged with foreign objects. Malfunctions can also be caused by malfunctions of spark plugs, injectors, sensors, pressure differences in the fuel line, etc. The pressure in the ramp, in turn, depends on the tightness of the line connection and the serviceability of the bypass valve.

It is worth noting that when the fuel pump is turned on but the engine is stopped, the pressure is measured using a pressure gauge. Lack of standard or serious deviation from it will be a sign of failure.

Checking the electrical circuit

Unlike carburetor engines, the fuel pump has a mechanical drive in the VAZ 2110/2112 injector, which is responsible for the operation of this device using special relays and fuses. Therefore, it is necessary to check these elements before diagnosing the pump itself. If at least one of them is faulty, the pump will not work at all.

Turn on the ignition without starting the engine and listen. When the fuel pump is running, it makes a characteristic “whistling” sound when started. If this is not the case, then either the pump itself or one of the components in its power circuit is faulty.

The pump relay and fuse are located in an additional mounting block inside the vehicle's center console. It can be accessed by removing the plastic cover (near the front passenger's left foot). It is held in place with several screws. Under the cover you will find three relays and three fuses. Typically, the fuel pump circuit protection element is located in the center.

To check the fuses, remove them from the socket and “test” them with a tester. Replace it if necessary and maintain the nominal value (15A). It is unlikely that you will be able to test a relay without specialized equipment. However, you can take another relay, for example, the radiator fan (far left) and install it in place of the one being tested. Turn the ignition on and listen to the fuel pump to make sure it is working. If so, purchase and install a new relay. If the problem persists, continue diagnostics.

Pressure check

To check your fuel pump pressure, you will need a pressure gauge. It will need to be connected to the fuel system, which is located under the hood of the VAZ 2110/2112. The pressure gauge will be connected to the fuel line fitting leading to the engine. If the pressure gauge shows pressure more than 3.3 kg/cm3 when rotating at idle, then there is definitely a problem with the fuel pump.

Be careful when connecting so as not to damage nearby hoses and wires.

If the pressure gauge shows pressure below 2.3 kgf/cm, the problem is not in the pump, but in another component - the filter.

These indicators allow you to immediately determine the nature of the fuel system malfunction.

Malfunctions of the electric fuel pump 2110

If the pump stops working, there may be several reasons for the malfunction:

electrical wiring is damaged;
fuse burned out;
the relay stopped working;
BN motor burned out;
The engine control unit has failed.

When a driver in a car with a VAZ 2110-12 injection engine turns on the ignition, the electric motor starts working - a characteristic buzzing sound is heard. If no sounds are noted, it means that the BN is not pumping fuel.

The easiest way is to check the electric fuel pump fuse, which is located almost in the same place as the relay, located to the left of the RB.

If the fuse is blown, it must be replaced. It often happens that when replacing a fuse, it immediately blows. The main reasons for the malfunction of this phenomenon:

the fuel pump itself “shorts”;
There is a short circuit in the electrical wiring.

Another characteristic malfunction of the electric fuel pump is that fuel is pumped, but the operation is accompanied by loud noise. A noisy fuel pump is a sure sign that this device will not “live” for long and will soon fail.

CAUSES OF ENGINE OVERHEATING

Overheating can be caused by many reasons, all of them are related to a malfunction of the cooling system, or the quality of the coolant, as well as contamination of the cooling system jacket, which impairs the fluid throughput

It is important to use high-quality spare parts, otherwise the reasons below will happen suddenly. Let's consider each of the reasons

LOW COOLANT LEVEL

The most common problem is a lack of coolant in the system. Coolant, in the form of antifreeze or antifreeze, constantly circulates through the system, removing heat from heated engine parts. If the coolant level is insufficient, the heat will not be removed sufficiently, which means an increase in temperature will be inevitable.

If it is not possible to add coolant, then turn on the heater to reduce the likelihood of overheating. As a last resort, add regular or distilled water, after which the cooling system must be flushed and then filled with fresh antifreeze. At temperatures above 90 degrees, you should immediately stop the car, turn off the ignition, and allow the engine to cool.

ELECTRIC COOLING FAN FAILED

The electric fan forces cool air onto the radiator, which is especially necessary when driving at low speeds when there is insufficient air flow. The fan can be installed either in front or behind the radiator. If the temperature arrow starts to rise, stop the car and check the fan for serviceability. Reasons for fan failure:

electric motor failed
connector oxidized
fan relay burnt out
The internal combustion engine temperature sensor has failed.

To check the fan, remove the connectors from it and connect the wires directly to the battery, which will allow you to determine the cause of the failure.

THERMOSTAT FAULT

The thermostat is one of the main elements of the cooling system. The cooling system has two circuits: small and large. A small circuit means that fluid circulates only through the engine. In a large circuit, fluid circulates throughout the system. The thermostat helps you quickly reach and maintain operating temperature. Thanks to the sensitive element, which opens the valve at 90 degrees, the liquid enters a large circle, and vice versa. The thermostat is considered faulty in two cases:

operating temperature of the coolant is not reached
the power unit tends to overheat.

The thermostat can be located directly in the cylinder block, in a separate housing, or as one unit with a temperature sensor and pump.

BROKEN COOLING FAN BELT

On vehicles with a longitudinally mounted engine, the fan can be driven by a drive belt from the crankshaft pulley. In this case, the fan works forcibly. The service life of the drive belt is from 30 to 120 thousand km. Typically, several units are driven by one belt. When a belt breaks, the internal combustion engine immediately tends to overheat, especially when the speed decreases. If you have a domestic car with a belt-driven fan, it is recommended to install an additional electric fan to avoid unpleasant incidents.

DIRTY RADIATOR

Once every 80-100 thousand kilometers it is necessary to flush the radiator along with the entire cooling system. The radiator becomes clogged for the following reasons:

untimely replacement of antifreeze
use of low-quality liquid
application in water system
application of cooling system sealant.

To wash the radiator, you should use special compounds that are added to old antifreeze; the engine runs on this “mixture” for 10-15 minutes, after which you need to remove water from the system. It is advisable to remove the radiator and wash it with water under pressure, inside and out.

How to test a relay

If the electric fuel pump does not show any signs of life when the ignition is turned on, this does not mean that it has burned out. The cause of the malfunction may also be a relay. The easiest way to check the RB by ear is that when you turn on the ignition, the relay should click. If you don’t hear a click, there is a high probability that the “relay” is faulty.

But not everything is so simple - the problem can be “tricky”, for example, the car does not start the first time. The cause of the malfunction may be hidden in burnt relay contacts. It’s quite simple to check the functionality of the pump itself; proceed as follows:

remove the protective casing, under which there is a block with relays and fuses;
we unscrew the fastenings of the block, remove it, it remains attached to the wires;
we pull the RB out of the block, place a jumper between two opposite contacts, thus directly supplying power to the BN;
If, with such a connection, the electric motor of the pump begins to make noise, it means that the BN itself is working, most likely, the malfunction is hidden in the relay.

If there is no voltage on any of the contacts on the RB block, you should look for a break in the wiring; there may also be poor contact at the place where the wire is attached to the terminal.

Problems related to the fuel pump

So, you need to analyze several symptoms of the main breakdowns of the dozen injection systems. If the VAZ 2110 fuel pump activation relay is faulty, then when you turn the ignition key you will not hear the characteristic hum that comes from the rear of the car. It is quite possible that there has been a break in the power supply circuit of the winding of the electromagnetic device. Check if there is voltage on it. It is possible that the fuse may fail. Please note that if fuses burn one after another, you should not spend money on buying new ones, but look for the reason for this behavior.

If fuses constantly fail, then there is a short to ground in the connectors or wiring. Moreover, you need to look in that part of the circuit that is located after the protection device. It is also possible that everything is fine with the wiring, the relay works, but the VAZ 2110 fuel pump does not pump. The reason is a lack of power or a breakdown of the engine itself. Among the latter, we can highlight breaks in the rotor and stator windings and wear of graphite brushes. And one more thing I would like to highlight: monitor the condition of the filter (diaper), which is located at the bottom of the fuel pump. If it is in poor condition, then the injectors may become clogged and the motor may fail.

If the starter of your car turns normally, but the car does not start, the first thing you need to do is check that the fuel pump is turned on. On domestic cars, its operation can be heard from the passenger compartment; when the ignition is turned on, a characteristic buzzing sound comes from under the rear seat or trunk. If the fuel pump does not work, you need to check the integrity of the fuses and the activation of the main relay of the engine management system and the fuel pump relay. On the VAZ-2107, VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109 and their modifications, relays and fuses are located on the shelf under the glove compartment or under it. On VAZ-2110 and similar ones, you should look in the heater console on the passenger side by unscrewing the fastening screws and removing the side cover. On GAZ cars they are located under the hood on the front wall of the cabin, closer to the passenger side.

Fuel check valve

The electric fuel pump of the VAZ “Ten” has good performance, but it creates too much pressure in the fuel system. In order to bring the pressure back to normal, a VAZ 2110 fuel pump valve is built into the fuel line; it is located in the “outlet” fitting of the BN housing. On the “tens”, a pressure regulator is also installed, which is located behind the fuel rail.

A valve malfunction involves a ball sticking in the open position, and the fuel pressure in the system may drop to zero. If such a problem occurs, the car is very difficult to start, since all the gasoline from the fuel lines goes back into the gas tank when the ignition is turned off. Is it possible to somehow repair the valve?

Drivers of 2110 cars claim that you can try knocking on the fitting in the BN flask so that the shut-off ball falls into place. If the malfunction cannot be eliminated in this way, the electric fuel pump bulb must be replaced, since this housing itself is non-separable.

Features of the VAZ 21124 (l,6i) engine power system

Location of elements of the engine power system* VAZ 21124 (l,6i) in the engine compartment
: 1 - intake module;
2 — throttle assembly; 3 — air supply hose to the throttle valve; 4 — air intake; 5 — air filter; 6 — fuel rail; 7 — throttle valve drive cable; 8 — fuel rail fitting; 9 — adsorber check valve; 10 — adsorber * VAZ 21124 (l.6i) engine with the plastic cover removed.

VAZ 21124 (1.6i) engine power supply system diagram

: 1 - nozzles; 2 - fuel rail; 3 — diagnostic fitting of the fuel rail (for checking the fuel pressure, closed with a threaded cap); 4 - adsorber; 5 - check valve; 6 — throttle assembly; 7 - gravity valve; 8 - separator; 9 — fuel line tube connecting the fuel filter to the tee; 10 — fuel line tube connecting the fuel filter to the outlet pipe of the fuel module; 11 — fuel module; 12 — fuel filter; 13 - filler pipe; 14 — fuel tank; 15 — hose connecting the fuel filter and the fuel module with the fuel line; 16, 18 — metal fuel pipes; 17 — connecting hose; 19 - fitting for connecting the fuel rail to the fuel line

useful tips for motorists

Mechanical fuel pump "tens" VAZ

The VAZ 2110 (Lada-110) car has been produced at AvtoVAZ since 1995, and the first engines on this model came with carburetors. Eight-valve VAZ 2110 engines with a power of 72 hp. With. were set to “tens” until 2000, and the fuel pumps on these internal combustion engines, accordingly, were mechanical.

The 2110 mechanical fuel pump consists of parts:

metal case (two halves);
top cover;
pusher with diaphragm;
two valves;
return spring.

Gasoline is pumped from the fuel tank by oscillating the diaphragm and opening and closing valves. The diaphragm with a pusher is driven by the camshaft eccentric; on the lower BN housing there is a manual pumping lever for gasoline.

Design features of fuel pumps for carburetor and injection fuel injection systems

Mechanical fuel pumps, which were installed on the first modifications of the VAZ 2110/2112, have a simple design. It is based on a set of membranes made of special rubberized fabric that is resistant to the chemical action of gasoline. The pump body has two valves: inlet and outlet. The membranes are driven by a rod (pusher). It is driven by a cam mechanism rotated by a camshaft.

Such a mechanical fuel pump can serve for decades until the drive rod wears out or one of the membranes breaks. And even then, if this happens, you can replace these elements in half an hour.

The first modifications of the VAZ 2110 with a carburetor injection system were equipped with mechanical fuel pumps

With an electric fuel pump, things are much more complicated. Its design is based on a small electric motor. It is no different from a regular one, although it works completely immersed in gasoline. The pressure in the system here is created not by a membrane (although there are such pumps), but by a specially shaped impeller mounted on the electric motor shaft.

The service life of the electric fuel pump is 150–200 thousand km. But it can fail much earlier. The main cause of breakdowns when the resource is not used up is additives added to gasoline, as well as various kinds of mechanical impurities. The former destroy the brushes and commutator, while the latter clog the valve mechanisms.

In the injection VAZ 2110/2112, the fuel pump has an electrical design and is part of the submersible fuel module

Mechanical fuel pump malfunctions

All parts of a car engine are subject to wear and aging, and the life of a mechanical fuel pump also depletes over time. Main malfunctions of the mechanical device:

warping of hulls;
cracking of the diaphragm;
valve failures.

If the diaphragm allows air to pass through, the pump may stop pumping gasoline into the carburetor; through the torn diaphragm, fuel enters the crankcase and mixes with the engine oil. When gasoline gets into the oil, fuel consumption increases sharply, and the engine itself starts poorly, especially when warm. Checking the presence of gasoline in the crankcase is quite simple - if you light the oil dipstick with a lighter, a fire will occur, and a gasoline smell will come from the oil crankcase.

A common defect that occurs in mechanical gasoline pumps is warping of the surface at the point where the pump is attached to the body of the auxiliary units. If the surface is deformed, engine oil begins to leak at the joint between the planes.

The fuel pump does not work - what could be the reason?

In the mechanical version there are many moving parts, which causes wear on the fuel pump. Most often, failure occurs due to:

damage to one or both valves;
destruction of the diaphragm;
body deformation.

Very rarely, fuel corrodes the gasket - this happens if it has a manufacturing defect.

When the diaphragm begins to let air through, the pump cannot work well - the fuel enters the crater with oil, which is manifested by a sharp increase in its consumption. The engine itself starts unstably (especially when warm).

It is not difficult to make sure that the diaphragm is corroded to holes. Remove the dipstick from the crater and bring a lit match to it - the gasoline will immediately ignite.

Mechanical pumps also often break due to deformation at the points where the unit is attached to adjacent elements of the fuel system. This is indicated by oil leaks at the joints.

The electric pump may not work if:

the fuse link has blown;
the relay is broken;
the wiring is broken;
The control module has failed.

Fuel pump VAZ 2110 carburetor price

Unlike electric fuel pumps, mechanical fuel pumps are generally cheaper; the price largely depends on the manufacturer. The most famous companies producing gasoline pumps:

The cost of the device ranges from 350 to 850 rubles; repair kits are also sold for used mechanical pumps; the kit contains a diaphragm, rod, and valves. The repair kit is quite cheap - from 70 to 200 rubles, but it does not always make sense to carry out repairs, since the pump assembly itself is inexpensive.

An interesting fact is that the fuel pump for carburetor engines for the VAZ “ten” is suitable for the VAZ 2108-09-099 models, as well as for the Zhiguli VAZ-classic 2101-07. The “Classic” BN differs only in a slightly different arrangement of fuel fittings, and in order to install the pump from the “Classic” on a car 2110, it is necessary to use longer fuel hoses.

Description of fuses on a VAZ 2112 car: location

Unlike previous generations of VAZ, the 2112 uses fuses (hereinafter referred to as modules). The total quantity is 20 pieces, which is 4 more than the VAZ 2110. And also, 8 relays - breakers.

Cylindrical type modules are not installed on new VAZ and Lada models due to the outdated design.

Where is it located: the standard location of the main mounting block is under the dashboard on the left side. To provide access to the power supply, you need to press the plastic lock - lever, lower the power supply down, carry out maintenance, and install in the reverse order.

Features of the electrical circuit of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump

However, the weakest point is the fuel pump.

Its electrical circuit looks like this:

The main one is the fuel pump relay; all the necessary fuses are installed there.
Next, the electrical circuit diverges from one of the fuses to the diagnostic block and the device itself.
From the next to the main relay and injectors.
Next, the electrical circuit goes to the electronic control unit.
Also, the fuel pump electrical circuit goes to the battery.

Thus, it turns out that the VAZ 2110 with an injector, the pump contains 4 electrical parts. In case of failures related to the operation of the pump, they should be checked first.

What is an ECU?

The first thing that catches your eye is the electronic control unit (abbr. ECU). It is installed in the cabin, under the dashboard. Its function is to monitor the operation of all sensors and actuators of the car. He also controls the operation of the VAZ 2110 fuel pump switching relay. Let's understand this issue, how does the control happen? An ECU is an electronic device; it is based on a modern (or not so modern) microcontroller. Depending on what functions the control system should have, various microcontrollers are used.

The microcontroller has input/output ports, as well as legs for connecting power, a master oscillator on a quartz resonator, etc. We are interested in the input and output ports. They are necessary for the microcontroller to receive and send signals. This, however, is clear from the name itself. In datasheets, these ports are designated by letters A, B, C, etc. In other words, they can both send a signal and remove them. But it all depends on one small detail.

The firmware (a program that runs according to a specific algorithm) determines which port is incoming and which is outgoing. In addition, it is the built-in program that allows you to determine all the operating parameters of the injection system, depending on incoming signals from the sensors. But this story is long, it won’t fit into ten articles. Let's return to the relay that turns on the fuel pump on a VAZ 2110 and similar cars.

Principle of operation

To make it easier for you to understand the electrical circuit of the 2110 with the injector system, let’s consider its structure and the principle of operation itself.

So, the following take part in the process:

Electronic control unit.
Relay for turning on the fuel unit.
Fuses that protect the electrical circuit of the device from overloads.

Electrical circuit of the VAZ 2110
In practice, the fuel unit starts working the moment the key is turned and ignites one turn. Before starting the engine, listen - at this moment you can hear the device starting to work and pumping gasoline.

Checking the fuel rail pressure

But even the fact that the fuel pump starts pumping when the ignition is turned on does not mean that it is working properly. The main indicator of its operation is the pressure in the system. You can check it using a regular pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 atmospheres, which is used to measure tire pressure. In addition, you will need a piece of gas-resistant hose with an internal diameter of 9 mm and two clamps of the appropriate size.

The verification procedure is as follows:

We relieve the pressure in the system. To do this, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. We remove the plastic lining of the additional mounting block, which contains the relay and fuse for the gasoline pump. We remove the fuse from the socket. Connect the removed terminal to the battery. We start the engine and let it run until it stalls. After that we put the fuse in place.
On the fuel rail we find a fitting specially designed for measuring pressure. Using the wheel valve cap, unscrew the spool valve from the fitting.

The fitting is designed specifically for measuring pressure

A regular tire pressure gauge is suitable for measuring fuel pressure in the rail.

For engines with a volume of 1500 cm 3 it should be 2.8–3.2 atmospheres, and for power units with a volume of 1600 cm 3 – 3.6–4 atmospheres. If the device indicators are lower, the pump is unsuitable for further use.

How does the device work?

After the driver turns the key in the ignition switch, the relay begins its work. The part sends a signal to the fuel pump and it turns on for 2 - 3 seconds to achieve the required pressure in the rail. The relay turns off the pump and then it starts only when the engine is rotated by the starter or while driving. After stopping the engine, the relay turns off the fuel pump and relieves pressure. In the latest models of gasoline pumps, the device performs several additional functions:

Acceleration. If the automatic transmission needs to increase speed, the relay can additionally turn on the pump to supply more fuel.
Slowing down the engine speed. If the engine is running at maximum speed, the relay may temporarily turn off the fuel pump. Temporarily turning off the device allows you to normalize the number of engine revolutions.

A sign that the fuel pump is working is a slight hum. Normally, the hum lasts only a few seconds, but if the relay or other parts of the system fail, the device may not turn off for a long time or may not turn on at all.

Prevention and useful tips

For trouble-free operation and increasing the life of the fuel pump, professionals recommend:

refuel only with high-quality fuel;
maintain the maximum fuel level in the tank;
do not use a car with a discharged battery;
promptly replace the fuel filter;
use sport driving mode less often.

Self-diagnosis and replacement of the fuel pump is quite simple. To do this, you just need to carefully follow the recommendations of professionals. The same applies to preventive measures. Refuel with high-quality gasoline and do not forget to replace the fuel filter on time. Then you will have problems with the fuel pump much less often.

Step-by-step installation with photo of the fuel pump

K-contact is a signal (spark-producing) B-contact is + 12V ignition

I connected the relay according to this diagram:

The relay itself looks like this.

This is what it looks like under the hood. I put the plugs on the mechanical fuel pump that were included with the EBN and haven’t started removing them yet, otherwise you never know.

Well, what can I say based on 2 weeks of experience in using this gas pump. The car drives and does not heat up even in the heat of 30+ degrees. 140 - 150 the car began to drive much better; there is enough gasoline, consumption has not increased, in general, so far everything is good.

The maximum speed at which it was driven

I found on a foreign website a diagram for controlling the fuel pump from the ignition, maybe it will be useful to someone. I soldered this myself and it works great, when you turn on the ignition the relay turns on for about 10 seconds, which is necessary to increase the pressure in the fuel system, then we start the relay again turns on the fuel pump while the ignition coil is working