Frequent problems with fuses were observed in the first generations of models; later engineers eliminated the defects.
Where is the power supply located: in the Lada Granta, as in previous VAZs, the mounting block is installed to the left of the steering column. The additional block is to the right of the battery, there are power fuses (hereinafter referred to as modules). The back side of the cover with a description of the pinout of each module (see photo).
In case of failure, it is not difficult to replace faulty modules with new ones, but be careful not to violate the installation technology. Otherwise, you risk damaging the equipment.
Relay-breaker layout diagram
| Name | What is it responsible for/what does it provide? |
| K 1 | Stove heater fan |
| K2 | Double-glazed window relay (window lifters) |
| K 3 | Starter |
| K 4 | Ignition switch terminals |
| K5 | Turn signals, hazard warning lights |
| K 6 | Windscreen wipers |
| K 7 | High beam headlights |
| K 8 | Sound signal |
| K9 | Low beam headlights |
| K 10 | Heated rear window |
| K11 | The engine control unit |
| K 12 | Gasoline pump |
Replacement instructions
So, if you want to achieve a better glow and increase the service life of your optics, just change the lighting sources in it. As practice shows, the most popular option in this regard is to replace traditional halogen lamps with diode light sources. But before you begin this process, you need to understand that simply installing a diode instead of a halogen will not be enough .
After all, this process has certain features:
- Typically, for installation it is necessary to tear off the base previously installed on the diode element in order to transfer it to the required hole.
- Replacing Lada Granta DRL lamps also involves checking the polarity of the lighting sources in order to maintain the functionality of the safety element. If you do not do this, the fuse will fail in any case, thus de-energizing the safe operation of the on-board network.
Lada Granta fuse installation diagram
| Designation/amperage | Which one is responsible for what? |
| F (F-1) / 15 | Electronic engine control unit, fuel equipment, ignition coils, radiator cooler relay |
| F (F-2) / 30 | Window lifters, instrument panel (panel) |
| F (F-3) / 15 | Alarm |
| F (F-4) / 20 | Windshield wipers, airbag |
| F (F-5) / 7.5 | Ignition switch terminal |
| F (F-6) / 7.5 | Reversing lamp, headlight unit |
| F (F-7) / 7.5 | Air flow sensor, adsorber, oxygen sensor, speed sensor |
| F (F-8) / 30 | Heated rear window |
| F (F-9) / 5 | Right-hand dimensions |
| F (F-10) / 5 | Left-hand dimensions |
| F (F-11) / 5 | Rear fog lights |
| F (F-12) / 7.5 | Right-hand low beam |
| F (F-13) / 7.5 | Left-hand low beam |
| F (F-14) / 10 | Right-hand main beam headlight |
| F (F-15) / 10 | Left side high beam |
| F (F-16) / 10 | Fog light right side |
| F (F-17) / 10 | To the left fog lamp |
| F (F-18) / 15 | Heated front seats |
| F (F-19) / 10 | ABS |
| F (F-20) / 15 | Diagnostic connector, trunk lid, gearbox, cigarette lighter |
| F (F-21) / 15 | Electrical fuel pump module |
| F (F-22) / 15 | central locking |
| F (F-23) / 10 | Daytime running lights (DRL) |
| F (F-24) / 7.5 | Air conditioning, radio |
| F (F-25) / 10 | Interior lighting, brake lights |
| F (F-26) / 15 | ABS |
| F (F-27) / 15 | Reserve |
| F (F-28) / 15 | Reserve |
| F (F-29) / 15 | Reserve |
| F (F-30) / 15 | Reserve |
| F (F-31) / 15 | Heated windshield, central locking |
| F (F-32) / 30 | Oven heater (stove), electric power steering (EPS), heater fan |
The price of an assembled assembly unit starts from 2500 rubles, melting elements from 100 rubles, a set from 550 rubles.
DRLs do not work on grant
I turn off the ignition, take out the key, and the running lights are on. Tell me why and how to fix it? I removed the minus from the battery, it does not help, I removed the minus and the plus, the result is the same.
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Actually, the running lights are “tied” to the parking brake. Put the handbrake on and the lights go out. If your DRLs do not go off in this way, then perhaps the button under the lever is faulty or there is a problem with the wire. Check.
And the ignition key and ignition switch have absolutely nothing to do with it - the daytime running lights are directly connected.
And so, disconnect the plug from the ignition switch, if it goes out then it’s a matter of stuck contacts in the lock
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Daytime running lights are a type of optics used to identify a vehicle on the road at any time of the day. Since the installation of this lighting is mandatory in our country, our compatriots have many questions regarding their operation. Read more about in what cases the DRL lamp of a Lada Granta W21/5W is changed and how to replace it yourself.
Common DRL faults
What are the signs of a malfunction of Grant's DRL:
- The glow of the LED elements has become dimmer. If this problem appears on only one headlight, then it is necessary to check the wiring and the quality of the contacts, although the possibility of wear cannot be ruled out. If both lights begin to burn dimmer, then most likely the problem is that the optics are close to failure as a result of having reached the end of their service life.
- The running lights do not turn on. In this case, the problem may lie in the inoperability of the optics, poor contact with the electrical circuit or damaged wiring. The reason can also be found in a non-working switch or DRL activation button.
- The diode elements do not light up, but blink, and the light may disappear. Such problems are usually caused by poor contact between the optics and the on-board network or worn-out light bulbs (video author - Alexander Kordyukov).
Power fuses
An additional block of power modules is located in the engine compartment, under the hood, behind the battery and expansion tank. It accommodates the following five modules:
- F (F-1) / 50A: electric power steering (EPS). Connected to fuse F32;
- F (F-2) / 30A: stove heater cooler (in the cabin);
- F (F-3) / 60A: generator;
- F (F-4) / 60A: generator contact board;
- F (F-5) / 30A: low beam. Connected to fuses F12, F13.
FakeHeader
Comments 13
In short, I'll take it under warranty, let them rack their brains.
That's right, then write down what the trouble was. Good luck
I went today under warranty and attended the inspection. In short, the problem was in the lamps themselves (When you start shaking them, they light up), it turns out they shook the lamps for me at TO-3 and said that there was a bad contact.
yes, they are fooling our brother ((
Are all the previous ones intact?
Is there an abnormal alarm?
Are all the previous ones intact?
If the front burnt out, then both would stop burning. (I tried)
As I understand it, you didn’t ask the reason at the maintenance? And they didn’t say it themselves either?
At first I didn’t ask, but the next day when the light stopped burning I asked. He told me that the contact was bad in the connector itself. (Although I tried the same thing myself, it didn’t help me.)
Damn, masters)) So take it back to them - let them establish contact)) It’s good if it’s a trifle, but if there’s something wrong with the wiring, then it’s fraught with trouble in the future. I read somewhere about problems with DRLs when the signal was connected incorrectly, the lamps burned out there too... Right now I can’t find the source. I read it on the Lada Granta Club, it seems. But you yourself don’t associate any of your recent manipulations? Maybe he changed something?
Common causes of fuse failures
- Natural factor - due to long-term operation of the technical device;
- Mechanical damage, accident, impact, collision;
- Short circuit in the circuit;
- Damage to insulation, oxidation of terminals, loosening of contacts;
- Water entering the mounting block, condensation formation, deformation due to high operating temperature.
If all else fails
If none of the above helped you, then most likely there is a break in the circuit somewhere. It could appear as a result of:
- mechanical impact (mice, rodents);
- time (the wiring has deteriorated);
- overheating of the wire and damage to its insulation.
This is a job for a professional electrician. The algorithm of actions is as follows.
- We look at the voltage on the fuses. There should be 12 volts constantly.
- We look at the voltage on one of the 33 contact chips. We need one with gray-black and gray wires in the corner part. These are the wires for the low beam headlights.
- We look at the voltage at the headlight terminals.
If there is voltage everywhere, then the problem is an open circuit between the mounting block and the headlight.
Replacing fuses on Lada Granta
- Flat head screwdriver;
- A set of new modules;
- A driver with a "10" head.
Sequence of actions when replacing the mounting block:
- We place the car on a flat, spacious area, turn off the engine, open the hood, remove the terminals from the battery;
- The power supply unit is located to the left of the steering column, unclip the cover and lower it down;
- We unscrew the bolts, unclip the connectors with the wires, and remove the board;
- We carry out troubleshooting, check the integrity of each of the modules: visually, and also using a multimeter. Violation of the integrity of the melting plate is the first sign of a malfunction.
After we have found and replaced the modules, we assemble the structure in the reverse order.
If you practice installing modules without dismantling the power supply, then it is enough to remove the modules one by one, check the integrity of the melting plate, replace them with new ones, and install them in their original place.
It’s easy to find a damaged fuse with a multimeter; you need to connect the terminals to the contacts and look at the arrow indicators. If the latter tends to “zero”, replace it with a new one.
Provided that the manufacturer's recommendations for operating the technical device are followed, the average lifespan of the fuses is over 40 - 50 thousand km. If foreign components are installed, the replacement interval will increase by a third.
When purchasing, check the catalog article numbers and consult with service station specialists regarding the compatibility of components.
The relay and fuse box is also called the mounting block or black box. If problems are identified in the car related to electrical equipment, first check the fuses and relays. If they burn out, we replace them with the same ones, but first we must determine the cause of the burnout.
Does it make sense to change working running lights?
Many car owners are interested in the issue of replacing standard DRL bulbs with more advanced ones, since the former are characterized by certain disadvantages:
- Dim lighting with yellowish tint. Firstly, in practice, such light often spoils the aesthetic appearance of the car as a whole, and secondly, its lighting does not have the best effect on the visibility of the car in front.
- Low service life of such lighting sources. So sooner or later you will have to face the need to replace light bulbs.
Location of fuses in Grant
- since 2011
- from 2022
“INSTALLATION No. 8-15 On LADA GRANT vehicles manufactured between 07/04/2014 and 01/19/2015, a problem may appear in the form of “the engine does not start, fuse F1 in the mounting block has blown” ...” If this is your case - The factory recommends updating the engine control unit program from an authorized dealer. It sounds strange, but it helps.
All fuses and relays of Lada Granta, Lada Granta Liftback, Granta Lux, Granta standard, Granta Norma, VAZ 2190, VAZ 2191 - 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2022, 2022, 2022, 2022 model years.
Most fuses are located in the vehicle interior under the instrument panel on the driver's side, behind a protective cover on which the relays and fuses of the main unit are marked on the reverse side.
To open the fuse box cover, pull the lower left corner of the cover
