Wheel bearing torque values ​​for passenger cars

After replacing the wheel bearing, an important moment comes - tightening. You need to lock it not with your “bare” hands, but with the help of a special device - a torque wrench. Since the service life of the equipment and the quality of control of technical means directly depend on the completeness of the tightening.

Each car has its own torque on the wheel bearings. This is clearly described in the operating instructions. If for any reason the manual is lost, you should use the Internet or contact your nearest auto repair shop for clarification.

How hard should you tighten the wheel nut on your car?

Torque standards are established for each car, since the tightening force for the locknut depends on the following factors:

1. Bearing dimensions;
2. Regulated axial clearance;
3. Diameter and thread pitch.

The following are the force indicators for properly tightening the nut. The database will be gradually replenished.

Advice:

If you have not found the tightening torque values ​​for your car (Skoda Octavia, Subaru models, Toyota Corolla), find the bearing you have installed and the same thread diameter or ask a question in the comments.

Adjusting and checking rear wheel roller bearings

Changing the front wheel bearing on a Lada Kalina with your own hands

This procedure is performed in the following order:

1. Raise the rear axle of the car, remove the wheel and axle shaft.
2. We get to the bearing nut by removing the outer nut and lock washer, and loosen it by turning it a third of a turn.
3. We turn the hub. It should rotate easily without touching the drum pads.
4. Using a special spanner from the standard set, we tighten the bearing nut with a force of 7 to 10 kgf.m. In the process you need to rotate the hub. This will allow the rollers to fall into place.
5. Next, you need to turn the bearing nut at an angle of 45 degrees and install the lock washer so that the pin located on the nut itself fits into its slot.
6. Next you need to install and tighten the outer nut. The moment of force should be within 15-20 kgf.m. To twist, you need to use the same head. At the end of the procedure, the hub should rotate freely without making any extraneous sounds.
7. Reassemble the wheel in reverse order and fill with oil.

Checking the quality of bearing adjustments is carried out in the field. To do this, you need to drive about 10 kilometers and check the hub. If it gets very hot (temperature over 70 degrees Celsius), then you should repeat the adjustment procedure and check the temperature again.

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on a VAZ (LADA)

Video text

HOW TO CORRECTLY TIGHTEN THE HUB NUT OF VAZ 2109, 2114, 2110, 2112? VAZ hub nut tightening torque

Front wheel hub mounting nut Thread M20x1.5

Tightening torque, N•m (kgf•m) 225.0–250.0 (22.5–25.0)

Rear wheel hub bearing nut Thread M20x1.5

Tightening torque, N•m (kgf•m) 190.0–225.0 (19.0–22.5)

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Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on Ford

How to change the front wheel bearing Matiz 0.8

Preparatory operations for repairing the hub assembly:

1. Place the car on a flat surface, provide lighting;
2. Engage first gear, release the handbrake;
3. Install wheel chocks under the rear chassis;
4. Clean the wheel or mechanism being repaired from dirt;
5. Familiarize yourself with the structure and location of wheel roller bearings in the mechanism, as well as the part numbers:

1. Prepare a set of tools according to the list:

— A set of wrenches and sockets with a ratchet; — Pipe for extending the wrench; — Vise — Jack; — Screwdriver, pliers; — Mandrel or socket head with an outer diameter of 37-40 mm. - Hammer, chisel. — A torque wrench for tightening the hub nut to the required torque.

Instructions for removing and replacing the old wheel bearing

1. First, loosen the wheel bolts, then remove the hub locknut.
2. Then we lift the car with a jack, install a support under the body, for the safety of work.

1. We immediately move on to dismantling the brake caliper. Find the two caliper mounting bolts and unscrew them.
2. Now we disconnect the brake hose, which is held on a special mount at the rack.

1. We remove the ABS sensor plug (if equipped), then remove the brake caliper. Place it aside so that it does not interfere with further disassembly.

1. Then unscrew the hub nut completely.
2. We move on to the steering tip, using pliers, remove the cotter pin nut.

1. Now unscrew the tip nut, having previously treated it with penetrating lubricant (WD-40).
2. Then we will use a tip remover to press it out.

1. Using the installed device, we compress the steering tip mount.

1. Loosen the fastening of the ball joint with the pin.
2. Now use a screwdriver to open the connection and disconnect the fist from the ball.

1. The removed rotary housing contains our faulty roller bearing, which needs to be removed and replaced. First, use a screwdriver to remove the dirt seal.
2. Now we knock the hub out of the rotating mechanism using a mandrel with a hammer. The internal components of the product (separator with rollers) will remain on the trunnion.

1. We remove the small ring of the tapered roller bearing, clamp the hub in a vice, and then use a claw puller (or cage puller) to pull it off the axle.
2. We remove the internal component of the second roller bearing, already from the rotary block, it can be removed easily.

1. The external components of the product will remain in the rotating mechanism; they are clamped by the fit.
2. If you don’t have a cup puller and a press, then use a chisel to remove the clips, trying not to damage the seating surface inside.

Installation and replacement of the front wheel bearing in the Daewoo Matiz hub

1. Prepare spare parts for replacement. Next, clean and lubricate the hole to make pressing easier.

We place the outer ring on the hole, evenly, without distortions

CAUTION: ROLLER UP (CONE) ONLY. Next, we use the old outer element of the product as a mandrel for pressing. Place the mandrel on the end and carefully press the clip into the body.

1. We perform the same operation on the other side.
2. Avoid joint distortions. The pressing diagram is shown below.

1. Now lubricate the small cage with thick grease and put it inside on one side.

1. We insert the outer oil seal with the iron casing into the structure and press it inside the housing.

1. We put on the brake disc. Now we move on to pressing the hub, first we attach the pin into the bearing hole. We do this without distortion.

1. Then we turn the structure over with the axle shaft down and take a mandrel or socket head.

1. Carefully press the axle shaft into the bearing according to the diagram.

1. Next, we put the spacer ring on the hub axle (from the kit).
2. Now we lubricate the small race of the second product and attach it to the axle shaft.

1. We press in the clip using the method known to us.
2. A correctly assembled structure looks like in the photo.

1. An external oil seal with a casing is placed on top.

1. We screw the hub to the brake disc and tighten it in a “cross” pattern.
2. Now we move on to attaching the assembled structure to the strut and CV joint. We install the remaining elements in the reverse order.

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing on a Chevrolet

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By correctly determining with what force to tighten the hub nut and stopping in time, you can avoid stripping the threads and the need to perform expensive repairs, taking into account today's prices for nuts. Craftsmen perform this work using a special torque wrench. Since a wheel bearing is a rather capricious product and additional equipment is not always at hand, it is very important to know the answer to this question.

Before work, it doesn’t hurt to determine what type of it is installed, for example, it can be conical or roller.

Tightening torques for the front wheel bearing for Renault

How to tighten the hub nut to the correct torque

To tighten threaded connections, where it is recommended to maintain a certain torque, use special torque wrenches . Inside the tool there is a dynamometer with a scale or a special device with a limiter, which is activated when the required tightening force is reached. Keys also come with value intervals, for example 5-25 (minimum 5 N•m, maximum 25 N•m).

The threaded connection is tightened until the arrow shows the required value or the limiter operates. There are also expensive and exact analogues - with an electronic display, but for the operation and repair of passenger cars a mechanical version is suitable.

The photo shows the main types of such keys.

1. With preset torque, not adjustable.

1. With preset torque value, adjustable.

1. With tightening force indicator.

1. With digital display of applied torque.

Watch the video on how to use a torque tool:

How to use the torque wrench scale:

How to use a torque wrench:

Adjusting Wheel Bearings

Home » Repair Tips » Adjusting Wheel Bearings

The bearings that are installed on car wheel hubs wear out over time. We will try to independently adjust these components and change products.

The bearing adjustment procedure involves the following stages:

1. First, the car is placed on a level site, secured with a handbrake. At the same time, you can place anti-recoil devices.
2. Then we lift the axle from behind using a jack.
3. We remove the axle shaft of the car to clarify the rotation of the wheels. Having discovered difficulties, we find out the source of the disease. There may be “sticking” at the oil seal and contact at the brake pads.
4. Next, unscrew the locknut and remove the stop washer. When we slightly unscrew the fastening nut on the bearing, we will re-check the rotation on the wheel. Adjustment procedures are permitted if the component moves easily.
5. Let's use a torque wrench to tighten the nut. The force on the structure should not exceed 100 Nm (at the same time we turn the wheels). Then the rollers will be evenly placed on the bearings.
6. Unscrew the nut again. To maintain the rotation angle, we make turns on the washer by a couple of positions and holes. We mount the stopper nut, controlling the entry of the pin into the slot.
7. We tighten the locknut, maintaining a force of up to 200 Nm.
8. When making adjustments, we control the free rotation of the wheel and the absence of axle play.
9. We install the axle shaft with spring washers. We re-tighten our nuts to secure the studs.
10. We lower the wheel until it touches the ground. We make a trip and test the equipment. Sometimes, when moving, the hub begins to heat up, reaching 700 degrees. Then the adjustment procedure will have to be repeated.

Now we try to pull out the hub on the rear wheel when we change the bearing.

We carry out the manipulations:

• Let's turn the flange by tightening the mounting bolts on the hub (in contact with the bracket). We act through the hole on the body part - we compare it with the bolts of the element.
• Then we remove the fasteners holding the mechanism.

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How to tighten a hub nut without a torque wrench

Many car enthusiasts, when repairing their car, consider it not advisable to purchase torque wrenches or other specialized devices (pullers, etc.). There is a good way to tighten the fastener to the required torque without using a torque gauge.

The following equipment will be required:

1. Ratchet with a head for a lock nut;
2. Pipe for extending the ratchet to create the required “shoulder”;
3. Roulette;
4. Marker;
5. A load that can be hung on the “shoulder” (for example, a 32 kg weight).

The essence of the method is to calculate the moment using the formula from elementary physics classes:

M = P•l, where

P is the applied force, N; l is the distance from the hub to the point of application of force - the “shoulder”, m. The ready-made formula for our case will be as follows:

P1 = (M2•100)/(M1•10) (•10 (or •9.8) - translated into Newtons), where

P1 is the distance at which the sinker is attached to the “shoulder” relative to the torsion point, cm; M1—cargo mass, kg; M2—required torque, N•m.

Calculation example for a Ford Focus 2 car

P1 = (M2•100)/(M1•10) (•10 (or •9.8) = (45•100)/(32•10) = 4500/320 = 14 cm.

Conclusion: to ensure a tightening torque of 45 N•m, a sinker weighing 32 kg will be required, located on the pipe at a distance of 14 cm.

Sequencing:

1. First screw on the locknut and tighten it slightly.
2. We mark a distance of 14 cm, where the rod should hang;
3. We hold the ratchet with one hand and hang the sinker with the other, thereby tightening the fastening;
4. The operation continues until the fasteners stop tightening under weight, which means that we have achieved the required force. Accuracy +/- 5%.

Adjustment

Checking its functionality and adjusting it is carried out as follows:

• Raise the front wheel using a jack;
• Remove the wheel;
• Using a chisel, remove the protective cap on the front hub bearing;
• Remove the brake pads;
• The indicator holder should be secured to the steering knuckle;
• Place the leg of this indicator against the hub, as close as possible to the adjusting nut;
• Rings of spanners are placed on the studs and the nuts are tightened. While holding them, the hub rotates and moves in the axial direction;
• Using the indicator, the movement or gap indicator is determined. If it is more than 0.15 millimeters, the gap must be adjusted;
• Reinstall the wheel without using the protective cap. Secure it with two bolts screwed in diametrically;
• Using a chisel, straighten the flange on the bearing nut and remove the nut with a 27mm (socket) wrench;
• Using a torque of 2.0 kg-cm, tighten the new adjusting nut;
• Loosen the nut, then tighten it again, but now with a torque of 0.7;
• Slowly release the adjusting nut 25 degrees and turn the wheel in a vertical plane. There should be a slight play;
• Check the gap. Its indicators should be in the range from 0.08 to 0.02 millimeters;
• In this position, lock the nut with the collar caulked in special grooves. They are located on the steering knuckle at the end of its axle;
• Remove old grease from the protective cap and apply new one. About 25 grams. Experts recommend using Litol 24, although there are worthy alternatives;
• Install the protective cap on the bearing;
• The wheel is installed in its rightful place.

Such diagnostics with repair elements will extend the life of your wheel bearing. If the adjustment does not allow the gap to return to the required parameters, the bearing should be completely replaced.