In VAZ 2109 cars, the steering rack is responsible for controlling the rotation of the wheels, converting the rotation of the steering wheel into the translational movement of the steering rod. Wear or breakage of parts leads to an increase in play, as a result of which the car’s handling deteriorates, the wear of car tires from uncontrolled “yaw” increases, and the movement of the car itself becomes dangerous on multidirectional turns. The owner of a domestic passenger car will be able to repair the VAZ 2109 steering rack with his own hands, guided by these detailed instructions and a diagram of this unit.
- 2 Symptoms of malfunction
- 3 Removing and disassembling the steering rack in a VAZ 2109 car
- 4 Repair of the steering rack in a VAZ 2109 car
4.1 Video: repair of the steering rack of VAZ 2108, 2109, 2113, 2114, 2115
Repair
The first thing you will need to carry out your own repairs is a repair kit. They are available at almost any auto parts store. However, we strongly recommend that you buy only high-quality kits so that the result of your DIY repair lasts as long as possible.
What you need for work
The proposed kits are incomplete and complete. You will definitely need the following kit components:
- Needle bearing;
- A pair of rubber seals for the bushing;
- Support sleeve made of plastic;
- Set of gaskets;
- Spring;
- Retaining rings;
- Support bearing;
- Drive gear;
- Boot cover;
- Rail;
- Set of ties for the boot.
Repair kit Now that the kit is ready, the tools are available, and there is enough free time, you can get to work.
- First, remove the boot, end caps and stops. As you disassemble elements, even the smallest and insignificant at first glance, be sure to evaluate their current condition. If necessary, all worn-out elements will be replaced with new ones taken from the repair kit.
- Using an octagon, unscrew the screw plugs, which will allow you to remove the springs, retaining rings, and thrust bushings.
- Remove the bearing and check if it has any play. The repair kit includes a new bearing, so if the old component is in satisfactory condition, it is better to replace it immediately. It’s not for nothing that you took on such a complex process to get everything done 50%.
- Remove and inspect the drive gear. Next, you can completely remove the rail itself.
- Be sure to replace the support shaft bushing, not forgetting about the rubber bands. They are also included in the kit.
- Take your time to remove the rubber bands from the sleeve. First, insert the element into the crankcase, after which you can cut off the elastic with scissors or a sharp knife.
- The most difficult step is replacing the needle bearing. To remove it, you will need a special key. But you can do without it. In this case, arm yourself with a 1.5 mm drill bit and a drill. Using a drill, make a hole in such a way as to loosen the end of the bearing. Use a punch to knock out the old bearing from the crankcase.
- Before installing the new needle bearing, be sure to thoroughly clean the steering rack housing of accumulated debris and steel shavings from drilling.
- The hole made cannot be left. To eliminate it, you can mix metal filings with superglue. This mixture will harden quickly and give an excellent result.
- Lubricate literally everything that can be lubricated in the steering rack assembly. Experts advise using Litol 24 or other lubricants of similar quality. It wouldn't hurt to lubricate the CV joints.
- Reassemble the unit by following the reverse sequence of dismantling.
If you don’t have a key to remove the needle, repairing the steering rack yourself allows you to significantly save on replacement, plus gain a lot of experience in performing far from the simplest work related to your VAZ 2109. But you can do it easier, without taking any risks, by contacting a trusted car service center.
Unit in a vice
Checking status
Having completed the repair, you should not think that now the steering rack will serve tens of thousands of kilometers and will no longer cause you trouble. Like many other components, the condition of the rack must be periodically monitored.
What to look for
Your actions
Mounting nuts and bolts
These fasteners are subject to vibration after repair as they are used. Therefore, it is recommended to check and tighten them every 250-300 kilometers.
You can check it a little less often, approximately every 500-1000 kilometers, depending on the operating conditions of your car. Due to different quality, some anthers can last quite a long time, while others will require replacement after 10 thousand kilometers. The choice is yours which parts to use
The rack itself should be constantly monitored
Listen to the behavior of the steering mechanism, pay attention to the above signs of malfunction. As part of a scheduled technical inspection, be sure to include a check of the steering racks in the list of activities.
The repair cannot be called complicated, but it takes a lot of time
Plus, it is extremely important to perform all operations as carefully and efficiently as possible. Otherwise, the result will not last long and you will soon have to interfere with the design of the VAZ 2109 steering unit again
Tools and materials
The list of necessary tools largely depends on whether the steering mechanism will be replaced or repaired.
So, to replace you only need a 13 socket with a wrench and an open-end wrench of the same size, as well as a 22 wrench and a screwdriver.
But during restoration work, you will need significantly more tools:
- A set of open-end and hex keys, a set of heads;
- Hammer;
- Puller;
- Bench vice;
- Jack;
- Narrow chisel (up to 7 mm);
- WD-40;
- Rags;
- Bearing grease (Feol or others)
In addition to the tools, you will also need a repair kit for the steering mechanism.
These repair kits are divided into small and large, although the difference between them is insignificant.
The small repair kit includes:
- All rubber seals;
- Rack stop spring and plug;
- Plastic rack bushing;
- Gear shaft retaining ring.
A large repair kit also includes a shaft with gear teeth and the rack itself.
A repair kit alone will not be enough to restore the functionality of the mechanism; you will also need steering rod silent blocks, a mechanism boot and clamps for it.
Regardless of whether the mechanism will be changed or repaired, first it must be removed from the car.
On which car the removal will be carried out - VAZ-2109 or VAZ-2110, there is not much difference.
Signs of breakdown
By means of steering racks, rotational movements from the steering wheel through a rack and pinion mechanism are transmitted to the rotary levers, which turn the front wheels with rods.
If you find one of the symptoms listed below on your car, be sure to conduct a full diagnosis of the condition of the unit, and then repair it.
Signs of a faulty steering rack include:
- A grinding noise is observed in the rack area when the steering wheel is rotated;
- The steering wheel periodically sticks;
- Lubricant begins to leak from the seals;
- The steering wheel has noticeable play.
These symptoms may also indicate problems in other components of the steering mechanism, but first you must check the condition of the rack, disassemble it and decide whether to replace or repair it.
Node diagram
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Let's analyze the removed steering rack of front-wheel drive VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars and their modifications. The steering rack will have to be disassembled when deciding to repair it (this is one of the stages of repair) and not replace it with a new one in case of malfunctions. Namely, the appearance of knocking noises (the rack knocks), vibrations and shocks on the steering wheel, increased play in the steering wheel - problems that are very common on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars.
Features of disassembling the steering rack of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
We will not consider removing the steering rods, protective cover and cap, because everything is simple there, but then it’s more complicated. To make work easier, the body of the rack can be clamped in a vice, but you can also do everything on your knee.
— Remove the steering rack stop
To do this, use a special wrench to unscrew the plug (nut) of the stop and remove it.
use a special wrench to unscrew the steering rack stop plug
We take out the spring located under the plug.
Use a slotted screwdriver to pry it up and remove the stop ring.
Turn the rack shaft (with an open-end wrench set to 14) clockwise until the end of the stroke and, pressing on the protruding part of the rack, move the stop.
We remove the rack stop itself from its body (you can use special thin pliers, insert them into the hole for the spring in the stop and pull it out, or simply knock it out with a sharp blow of the rack body on a wooden block due to inertia).
— Remove the steering rack shaft with bearing
Remove the shaft boot.
Remove the shaft lock washer.
We unscrew the bearing nut with a special wrench and remove it.
unscrew the rack shaft nut 2108 with a special wrench
We remove the rack shaft with bearing. We use a lever: we hook it to the flat on the shaft with a long open-end wrench size 14 and, leaning it on the mounting (or a wide wrench), pull out the shaft.
— Pull the rail itself towards the short part of the body
— Use a screwdriver to remove the rack support sleeve
— We remove the needle shaft bearing from the steering rack housing (you can use a special puller or drill two holes in the end of the rack housing with a 2 mm drill and knock out the bearing through them). The needle bearing should be removed for replacement only when it is clearly worn out, since it rarely fails.
a rack removed from the body, a support sleeve and holes for drilling through which the needle bearing is knocked out
The steering rack of VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars is completely disassembled.
If necessary, use a puller to compress the ball bearing from the rack shaft using a pipe. First remove the retaining ring from the shaft.
Removing the steering rack shaft bearing using a three-legged puller
Notes and additions
— After disassembly, we completely wash the rack body and all removed elements. Next, we carry out the rejection of faulty parts, their replacement and assembly.
More articles on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 cars
Each component and unit of the car requires careful attention and timely maintenance. There can be no trifles here, because even the smallest cotter pin with a minor crack can lead to big troubles. By default, the steering mechanism should be serviced and diagnosed first - this is safety on the road, neglect of which can lead to very undesirable consequences.
The value of the rack in the VAZ 2109
The steering rack in front-wheel drive cars - VAZ 2108, 2109, 2111 and the like, is responsible for the operation of the entire steering mechanism. Ignoring the symptoms of problems that may arise with its technical condition can lead to undesirable consequences, including jamming of the mechanism, which is not the most pleasant surprise in traffic. Therefore, repairing the steering rack of a VAZ 2109 and other front-wheel drive cars should not be a surprise to the driver.
Signs of a faulty steering rack
With the help of a steering rack in front-wheel drive cars of most manufacturers, including domestic ones, the rotational movement of the steering wheel is transmitted using a rack and pinion mechanism to the swing arms, which turn the front wheels through steering rods. How this works can be seen in the figure below.
Diagnostics and repair of the VAZ 2109 steering rack must be carried out if the following symptoms become noticeable:
- Grinding noise when turning the steering wheel in the rack area;
- Leaking grease from seals;
- Periodic sticking of the steering wheel;
- Increased play in the steering mechanism.
Replacing the steering column of a VAZ 2107
Replacing a steering column is a rather difficult task, but it can be done independently if you have some experience in car repair. You will need the following tools:
- Wrenches 17 (socket and open-end).
- Socket heads for 17 and 30.
- Handle with ratchet.
- Mount.
- Hammer.
- Collar.
The column is removed in the following order:
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the steering shaft housing.
- Remove the wire block from the ignition switch.
- Remove the ignition switch.
- Remove the steering column switches.
- Remove the steering shaft clamped in the column.
- Using a 30mm socket and a powerful wrench, unscrew the steering column mounting nut. The tightening force here is significant, so the knob must be a fairly long lever. If you can’t unscrew it, you can lengthen the knob by putting a piece of pipe on it.
- Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the column to the body. The procedure is not easy - the distance between the parts and the body is too small, the bolts are difficult to keep from turning. A handle with a ratchet will come in handy here, which will speed up the process.
- Remove the column from the shaft. To do this, you need to knock the column off the tie rod splines using a pry bar. This must be done in jerks, resting your feet on the body.
- Unscrew and remove the shaft seal installed at the bottom of the column.
After dismantling the old column, it is necessary to clean the seat from dirt. Before installing a new column, you should check the condition of its hinge joints and needle bearings. If everything is in order, you can begin installation, which is done in the reverse order of removal.
When installing a new VAZ 2107 steering column, you must pay special attention to ensure that all fastening bolts and nuts are well tightened. Considering how important this unit is for driving a car, play, and even more so, slippage of the steering column splines can lead to tragic consequences
When installing the steering wheel, pay attention to the position of its spokes. After completing the installation of parts and connecting the wire block to the ignition switch, you can connect the battery
Column replacement completed
After completing the installation of parts and connecting the wire block to the ignition switch, you can connect the battery. Column replacement is complete.
Eliminating backlash
Of course, major repairs are not necessary in every case, and replacement of component parts is also not always necessary, because:
- On the VAZ 2109, the steering rack is adjustable, and if you know how to tighten the steering rack mechanism, then you can remove steering knocks without any financial investment at all
- This is possible, of course, if the knocking is caused by operational or factory control play
- To adjust, you should use a trestle or inspection hole, find the adjusting nut under a layer of dirt, then use a special wrench “17” to tighten it
We disassemble the rack
When you have eliminated the play, but the knocking has not disappeared, then the steering rack on the VAZ 2109 must be disassembled and repaired:
- Repairing the rack yourself will not be difficult, of course, if you know in what sequence the operations need to be performed
- First, we remove the steering rack, and if everything is in order with the rods, then it is not necessary to remove them, just unscrew them from the unit and that’s it
- Then we clamp it in a vice or in a special device for repair.
- And then remove the clamps securing the protective cap, boot, right support and spacer ring
- Subsequently, all other parts are removed (photo with diagram below), including complete pressing out of the bearings
- Then the parts should be cleaned of dirt as thoroughly as possible, followed by washing them in kerosene
- And after cleaning all the parts, they should be very carefully inspected for signs of tears or other damage.
- If small scuffs can be easily removed with sandpaper, all heavily worn parts, and especially damaged ones, must be replaced
- The same approach applies to bearing troubleshooting.
- In their particular case, if there is the slightest doubt about the performance of these devices, parts should be replaced immediately
- You should also understand that tightening the steering rack itself, the procedure, in principle, is not a difficult operation to perform with your own hands
- But disassembling the steering wheel, and even more so replacing it, may require special skills from you; in addition, you will need competent instructions
- When you have absolutely no time or desire to carry out such operations yourself, or you do not want to delve into all the intricacies of this process, then the best option for you would be to perform all repair work in a specialized automobile workshop
- You, of course, understand that the price of specialist services will cost more than self-repair
- Moreover, the amount of the invoice that you will receive may vary greatly.
- For example, carrying out troubleshooting is one cost, but a complete repair is a completely different one.
Schematic structure of the steering rack, it clearly shows what is removed and then put back on
- It is worth noting that the steering rack is not the cheapest component of a car, so few people dare to replace the whole thing right away.
- Everyone starts by trying to repair the existing device.
- It happens that it is enough to simply adjust it so that the malfunction disappears, or perform a partial repair by replacing the bearings
- Of course, the diagnostic procedure, as well as subsequent repairs, is impossible without disassembling
- Only by disassembling the steering rack will you get a complete picture of the condition of its parts, which parts require improvement (grinding, for example), and which should definitely be replaced
- Repair in almost any case will be much cheaper than a complete replacement
- And if you repair the rack yourself, you will also save on the cost of auto mechanic services
- To carry out independent repairs, as has been mentioned more than once, you will need a repair kit, specific keys, as well as a set of bearings and grease.
- Not a lot of money is spent on purchasing components
- However, if you have replaced all the bearings, as well as seals and lubrication, and still have problems with the operation of the machine, then you will still need the services of specialists to determine the exact cause of the failure or replace the “serious” (major) components
- The most remarkable thing is that in the conditions of the modern total “deficit” of finance, a complete replacement of the entire unit is resorted to only in extreme cases, when there is nothing left to repair in the old one
Repair kit contents
If the question you are interested in is “which one to choose,” then there will be practically no recommendations here, because the design of all mechanisms in VAZ car models is almost identical. So:
- Just remember that you should beware of counterfeits when purchasing.
- And one more thing you should definitely know before purchasing a steering rack repair kit is the fact that they come in different configurations
- The simplest and, therefore, the cheapest repair kit includes only a washer, nut, and bearing, as well as fluoroplastic bushings, since bushings are consumables
- The average-priced kit is the same kit, only complete with all bearings and shafts
- And finally, the most expensive configuration option, which is used to perform major repairs, is equipped directly with a new steering rack
We have completed a detailed diagnosis of the problems, there will be another article about detailed repairs, so as not to search for it, it’s better to watch the repair video.
Source
Removing the steering wheel.
Probably one of the most significant elements in the steering circuit is the steering wheel. The steering wheel is usually removed to replace the shaft and contact ring of the horn switch.
Next, we will tell you how to remove the steering wheel and provide explanations with pictures. So, the tools you will need are a 24mm socket with an extension and a screwdriver. Before starting work, set the front wheels straight, and do not change position until the steering wheel is in its original place.
Pry up the decorative trim on the horn switch with your hand.
Take it off
I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when removing the lining you should be careful not to break it
The steering wheel hub and steering shaft should be marked so that their relative position can be determined in the future. The exception would be the case of a complete replacement of the steering wheel.
Attach the socket with extension and unscrew the steering wheel fastening nut
Disconnect the electrical wire to avoid damaging the steering wheel when removing it. Using a sharp blow from bottom to top, remove the steering wheel from the splines.
Unscrew the mounting screws and remove the horn contact ring.
Some batches of cars were produced with slight differences, such as a double cavity on the steering wheel hub, and a double spline at the upper end of the shaft. All this is to place the steering wheel in a strictly defined position.
After the steering wheel has been installed in place, you must ensure that it is in the correct position on the shaft. When the car is moving in a straight line, the steering arms must be in a strictly horizontal position. This is necessary for clear automatic switching off of the direction indicator.
When finally installing the steering wheel, tighten the steering wheel mounting nut in this position.
Hello, in this article you will learn how to replace the steering wheel on VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107 cars. Of course, removing the steering wheel is not a common operation, but it still happens that you have to remove the steering wheel to restore the audio signal wiring , or to replace the old steering wheel with a new one when it is very worn out, although now the steering wheel is more often changed to a “sports” one. To replace the steering wheel you will need a 24mm socket and a slotted screwdriver. Before you start replacing the steering wheel, you need to align the wheels and steering wheel straight, this is necessary so that when installing the steering wheel in place, you do not lose its normal position. Now take a slotted screwdriver and remove the plug in the center of the steering wheel
After this, use a 24mm socket to unscrew the nut securing the steering wheel to the steering shaft
But you shouldn’t completely unscrew the nut right away; first knock the steering wheel off the steering shaft, and then unscrew the nut completely, otherwise you can get injured when knocking the steering wheel out
Installing the steering wheel is done in the reverse order, the main thing is to make sure that the protrusions on the steering shaft lining align with the slots on the steering wheel
Avtochanel
From this article you will learn how to remove the steering wheel on a VAZ 2101-2107 car, what tools are required for this, and most importantly, how to avoid injury while carrying out this work.
Removing and installing the steering wheel can be done for several reasons:
- replacing a conventional steering wheel with a new or sports version
- After adjusting the wheel alignment angles (wheel alignment), you need to set the steering wheel to the correct position
- it is necessary to remove the steering wheel to gain access to replacing other parts, for example, steering column switches
The procedure for removing the steering wheel:
- Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery so that when working with the steering wheel you do not accidentally turn on the sound signal.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the plug in the center of the steering wheel. (Fig. 1)
- Using a 24mm socket wrench, unscrew the steering wheel mounting nut. (Fig. 2)
- Remove the steering wheel. (Fig. 3)
Which steering rack to install on a VAZ 2109, when to replace it?
The original number of the steering rack is 21080-3400012-10, the average price is 3462 rubles.
- Trialli CR 108 — 2451 rub.
- Pilenga SR-P 1141 — 2436 rub.
- BM SR 2108 — 2887 rub.
Replacement frequency - check at every scheduled maintenance. The average service life is over 100 thousand km.
First of all, we lift the front of the car to achieve full lift of both front wheels. Anti-slope bars should be placed under the rear wheels.
Remove the front wheels. At the same time, we check the condition of the anthers on the steering fingers.
Now you need to gain access to the steering rack mount. It is necessary to disconnect the gas adsorber, as well as the alarm siren, if available and installed in this particular location. We remove the terminal with the wires from the adsorber, and, as far as the hoses allow, we move them to the side.
After removing these components, access to the steering rack mount is free.
If you install a used steering rack, you should pay attention to the condition of the boot boot and steering rod silent blocks. Now set the steering wheel to a neutral position (when the wheels look straight)
Using a spanner wrench or a head to the universal joint, unscrew the bolt from the splined joint, which is located near the pedal assembly
Now set the steering wheel to a neutral position (when the wheels look straight). Using a spanner wrench or a socket to the universal joint, unscrew the bolt from the splined joint, which is located near the pedal assembly.
We clean the tie rod attachment to the car suspension struts from dirt.
After the fastening units are cleaned, use pliers to remove the locking pin from the joint.
Unscrew the steering tip nut.
Next we install the puller.
Tighten the puller nut and gently tap the puller from underneath with a hammer until the tie rod pins come out of the cone joint.
Now, back under the hood, you need to unscrew the nuts on the steering rack.
Using a screwdriver, pull the steering rack off its mounts.
We pull it out through the window in the wheel well.
Let's start installing the steering rack. In order to catch the required middle position of the steering rack, you must first install the steering pins in the racks, after which we install the shaft on the splines in the cabin. The steering shaft in the cabin has free movement, making it easy to install it in the required position. Be careful, there is a groove in the steering rack for the clamp bolt, and you need to install it so that the clamp is opposite the groove, this will allow you to install the bolt back without any extra effort.
Now we assemble the entire steering unit in reverse order.
Direct implementation
- First, we disassemble everything, wash it and begin cutting fragments of the required length. A PVC pipe with a diameter of 5 cm will act as a cracker; we will cut it and lay it in four layers. The length of the improvised bushings is 24 cm, so you don’t need to adjust anything, everything is tested from personal experience :).
- In the center of the pipe, it is necessary to remove a strip about 3.5 cm wide. This is necessary so that during installation the cracker can shrink to the shape of the rail.
- When the first fragment is cut out, you can begin installation. We carefully squeeze the cracker and push it inside so that nothing sticks out or sticks out anywhere, since during operation this can create a lot of problems.
4. Cut out the second cracker in the same way. The only nuance, and it needs to be taken into account, is that each new plastic element will shrink more, so the strip that we cut in the center should be wider than the previous one. After cutting, install the second fragment in place. If necessary, carefully trim everything using a sharp knife.
The 3rd and 4th crackers are manufactured and installed in the same way. You should get something similar to the one in the photo. Another important point is to make sure that the edges of the pipe do not protrude into the working window of the rack and do not interfere with the free movement of the steering rods and shaft.
When you install the last fragment, the free play between the housing and the shaft will become exactly what we need, as they say, snugly. For better results, add the required amount of graphite lubricant, change faulty parts (oil seals, tips, etc.), if necessary, and then reassemble in the reverse order.
- I personally and many who repeated this experiment are happy with the result! I hope you will also be able to remove the steering rack knock, and you will not regret the work done. Thank you for reading to the end. I would be grateful if you share this article with your loved ones on social networks using the special buttons located below. Good luck to everyone and see you again at VAZ Repair. Bye!
Removing the steering rack of VAZ 2109, 2110
The car must be immobilized - to do this, it is placed on the handbrake and stops are placed under the wheels.
Next, the front of the car is jacked up on both sides and the front wheels are removed.
Then the bolts securing the ball joints of the mechanism to the steering knuckles are unscrewed. Next, the supports need to be pulled out of their seats; a puller is used for this.
The next step is to unscrew the bolt securing the steering column to the gear shaft of the mechanism. It is located in the cabin near the floor, where the column shaft enters the floor. The bolt is completely unscrewed and removed.
Then you need to unscrew the bolts of the brackets that secure the mechanism to the rear wall. The staples are also removed. After this, you need to pull the mechanism down and onto the engine to remove the gear shaft from its seat in the column shaft.
Having disconnected the mechanism from the steering column, you can remove it through the technological hole in the fender liners through which the steering rods come out.
After removing the steering mechanism, it is clamped in a vice, then the bolts securing the steering rods are unscrewed and they are removed.
Design and operating principle
To make it clearer, you should first consider the design and operating principle of the steering mechanism of VAZ cars.
So, the entire steering mechanism is located in the crankcase. This crankcase is secured with brackets to the rear wall of the engine compartment. To secure the crankcase, there are removable stops at its ends. A rack with a gear sector is installed inside it.
On the right side of the crankcase there is a special ebb, inside of which a shaft with teeth is placed, that is, one edge of the shaft acts as a gear.
With its teeth, the shaft engages with the toothed sector of the rack. To ensure proper engagement, a spring-loaded stop is placed in the crankcase, which presses the rack against the gear.
At the other end of the toothed shaft there are splines through which it is connected to the steering column shaft.
There is an oblong slot in the crankcase on the left side. Through this slot you can see the rail itself.
On the same side, the rack has two threaded holes for attaching steering rods.
The tie rods are attached to the rack using a connecting plate and two bolts.
To reduce the transmission of vibrations from the wheels to the steering mechanism and further to the steering wheel, silent blocks are installed in the steering rods on the side of their attachment to the rack.
Adjustment methods
The steering rack can be adjusted in two ways.
Adjustment method
Peculiarities
If the rack is removed and adjusted, we are most often talking about repairing or replacing the unit with a new one. It is recommended to carry out such settings only in these situations
Without dismantling the unit
This method of adjustment is relevant if it is necessary to tighten the rack slightly, remove play, and get rid of knocking noises. Here it is quite possible to do without dismantling work, that is, to set up the mechanism directly on the car
Malfunctions
There are several typical steering rack malfunctions that VAZ 2109 owners encounter. In some situations, simple adjustments can be done, while in others, more detailed intervention in the design of the unit and its components will be required.
Steering rack breakdowns are as follows:
- The steering rack fastenings are loose;
- The rack itself or its gears have worn out;
- Pair engagement is not adjusted properly;
- The bushings at the junction of the rack and steering rods have worn out.
It is not always possible to adjust the rack to eliminate its incorrect operation. This occurs due to the fact that an impressive production of components is formed inside. This can only be determined by dismantling. Therefore, if the adjustment does not bring the expected effect, you will have to remove the rack from the car and check what is wrong with it.
Required spare parts
To replace the VAZ 2109 steering rack repair kit or restore the unit’s functionality, depending on the type of work, you will need the following spare parts:
- Steering rack with article number: 21080-3401067-00, 21080340106700 or 2108-3401067
- Tension roller with article number: 406.1308080-21-088-01, No. 088-01, 406.1308080-21.
- Nut ring with article number: 21080-3401075-00, 21080340107500, 2108-3401075.
- Case with article number: 2108-3401224, 2108-3401224K.
- High-temperature lubricant, article number 4003/2017.
Preparation for repair
Since we are talking about intervention in the steering system, suspension, special attention should be paid to preparation
- If you have a lift or inspection pit, you will be able to perform operations much faster and easier, which is the most important thing.
- Be sure to get a set of sockets and spanners. It is extremely difficult to work without them. In addition to the wrenches, you will need wire cutters, pliers, a hammer, a flat head screwdriver, and a tie rod end remover.
- To remove all fasteners that have been tightened for a long time, a can of WD40 will certainly not hurt. It removes oxidation from nuts and removes rust. In addition to the almighty WD40, buy graphite lubricant or grease. By treating the fasteners with them, you will be able to remove them much easier in the future.
- The presence of rags, a metal brush, fresh gasoline or solvent is welcome.
- Ask your friend to help you with your work. It's much easier to change steering wheels with four hands.
Be sure to remove the negative terminal from the battery in order to de-energize the car. We don't want short circuits or burned out wiring.
Repair kit
Hanging the axle
To safely and independently change the steering rack in your own garage, it is extremely necessary to correctly and securely hang the front axle of the car.
Sometimes this issue is not given due attention, as a result of which the car falls, this leads, at best, to damage to the elements of the car, and at worst, to injuries to the repairer himself.
In order to do everything in accordance with safety standards, you need to:
- Place your VAZ 2109 on a level surface. Typically, garage floors are fairly level;
- Install wheel chocks, shoes, bars or other similar means under the rear wheels. Block each wheel front and rear;
- Pull the handbrake all the way to stop the wheels. Just make sure first that the handbrake works;
- Set the steering wheel in neutral position;
- Slightly loosen the fasteners on the wheels;
- The front of the car needs to be raised. Here it is better to use two reliable jacks at once;
- Near the jacks, additionally place metal stops that are adjustable. If there are no special devices, an ordinary block of wood, boards or some kind of stump will do. The main thing is that when you make contact with the body, when you pull or push it, the car does not tip over;
- Remove the front wheels completely and begin replacing the steering racks.
Optimal working conditions
Dismantling
Before installing a new steering rack, you need to get rid of the old one. For this:
- Get to the place where the rack is attached in the engine compartment. To do this, you will probably have to remove the alarm and gas adsorber, at the same time dismantling the hoses.
- Disconnect the rack from the steering column shaft. Before this, the plastic casing is removed, blocking the path to the spline joints. The rack shaft is released by unscrewing one bolt.
- Next, remove the steering ends from the levers. Here haste can significantly harm you. Gradually brush the threaded connections, tip pin and mounting nut with a metal brush. Then apply WD40 to these areas. Give the product a little time to react. Then you can use pliers and a screwdriver to remove the cotter pin from the connection. Once the solvent has taken effect, the nuts should come off without much effort.
- If the tip is in normal condition, it is recommended to remove this element from the strut lever with a puller. A more barbaric method can lead to damage, so you will have to change the tips.
- Unscrew the rack fasteners using keys. It is better to treat them with WD40 in advance.
- After unscrewing the nuts, pry the steering rack with a flat screwdriver and remove it from the studs.
- Call a partner to work together to remove the element through the opening in the wheel arch.
see also
Comments 90
Well done! excellent work, and most importantly useful! and those who criticize are simply lazy, cross-armed))
Thank you)) Criticism is also important, it determines the desire to do better)
In principle, there are two eight-point slats and I’m thinking of disassembling them, replacing the repair kit, and assembling one rail, but with the same modification.
Be sure to check that the rasp is even, for some reason mine was crooked and wedged when pulled through
Yes, in principle, I think that out of two slats, a normal rasp will be found. No, I’ll start looking for the third one, long forgotten.
hammer) I also have to repair the rack, it also rattles like hell) you pull the rods with your hand, even this makes it knock) I thought I changed the tips first, but it wasn’t the problem with them.
The post helped a lot, I read it yesterday, I did it today, I rode everything perfectly, finally there was silence)))
What kind of lubricant should I put in the rail? I shoved litol - it’s tight in winter!
There is an answer somewhere below)) It seems like filol, or I think graphite lubricant will do!)
Wouldn't it be easier to buy a repair kit? 170 rubles, new rail
It may be easier, but the point is to do without money at all) But, however, there is an opinion that the new repair kit is enough for a short period of time, which is sad, and this “modernization”, even if the entire structure wears out, will absorb the impacts of the rack)
Wouldn't it be easier to buy a repair kit? 170 rubles, new rail
This modification is designed to last for many years, and the repair kit does not last long
new rack and that's it!
there's no point, the new ones don't last long either
Well, I don’t know, I’ve been driving for over a year and it’s fine. Of course, buy a cheap analogue. Of course it will break
How long did all the work cost? And then you have to do it too (((
I can’t even say, I did it slowly, was interrupted by other things, plus inexperience (it turned out that the rods don’t have to be unscrewed from the rack). With all the consequences, it took me about 4 hours)
How can the rods not be unscrewed from the rack? How then to remove it?
You remove the wheels, pull out the steering tips from the bipods of the struts, and unscrew the rack, then remove it through the hole on the side of the wheel)
So it’s easier to unscrew the rods from the rack) or am I wrong?)))
Not for everyone, and not always) I now think that it’s easier not to unscrew) If you don’t unscrew, then all that remains is to remove the clamps from the rack and pull them off the steering mechanism)
Hmm, I'll have to think about it) I'll probably do that)
I did the same thing from sewer pipes, I drove for 2-3 months, everything was fine, then I installed a new rail)
I just got a new complete rack assembly for free, I thought, why not change it))) To be honest, I thought I would immediately modify the new one so that I could forget about the rack altogether, but somehow I didn’t get around to it, I just lubricated it well and assembled it) It’s actually ok topic, while I went for these 2-3 months I didn’t find any negative consequences at all, everything was fine) Well done for not being lazy and doing it)
Well, yes, this guy actually expresses a lot of interesting ideas. He's actually a great guy, he's sorting out the engines on the grass in the garden. He also has a very interesting idea of drilling holes in the pistons and chamfering the skirt. Reika is super revived, well done! They say it will be eternal after this - check it out)
We'll check it out, then I'll post it in my blog)
Good day, guys, once there was such a booze, tell me why the steering wheel is biting? I’ll explain in Kratsi, I bought the car used, but the owner had a fresh four, as soon as he left the showroom, he didn’t lubricate anything anywhere, didn’t tighten it up, drove for 9 months. When I picked up the car, the first thing I did was go !They dismantled the steering wheel and it was dry, he cleaned it off, he lubricated the rust from it, and installed it, and said after 1000 km, we’ll pull it up! At first, the steering wheel turned heavily, and as it approached 1000 km, it began to turn easily! I came to him again, he started to bite the steering wheel in one place, I tell him that you say the steering wheel is biting, he says that it will diverge over time! In general, I’ve already driven quite a bit, but it’s been biting and biting now, on winter tires it’s not so noticeable, but on summer tires it’s just crap! I don’t want to go back to the same master, or whatever you can call him differently (you never know, it’ll make it even worse)Author Sorry for being off topic! Credit for the work! 1! Help with advice
Maybe the bolts securing the rods to the rasp are long for some reason; when tightening, they rest against the body, and where there is a hole, they bite, but this is unlikely, most likely the worm mechanism itself)
IF it is a worm gear, then the entire rack needs to be replaced?
No, there is a repair kit that has everything, but the cost is almost half the cost of a new rack, so it’s up to you to decide)
thank you very much I'll think about it
I recently did this myself, only I used a 50mm sewer pipe as the material, one meter is enough. There is an effect, the beats are gone.
I also wanted to make it from a pipe initially, but I didn’t have any soft material on hand)
Literally the day before yesterday I also repaired (modified) the rack, this is the 3rd day of driving and I’m happy with the silence)
When is VAZ 2109 rack repair required?
Steering rack repair may be required if certain elements of the mechanism wear out or fail. This can be determined by various symptoms, if identified, it is necessary to stop operating the vehicle and carry out repair work. Problems with the steering rack are indicated by:
- increased steering play;
- noise or knocking in the steering system;
- steering wheel rotation is too tight.
It should be noted that the steering system is connected to some structural elements of the car, so during repairs it is necessary to check the condition of the steering rods, wheels, and also the steering column control unit.
So, if you are sure that your steering rack on a VAZ 2109 requires repair, you will have to first remove and disassemble the rack, and then carry out repair work and install the mechanism in place.
FAQ
How do problems with the steering rack manifest themselves?
Characteristic signs of a malfunctioning steering column: knocking when driving over uneven surfaces, inadequate behavior of the steering wheel (jamming, play), lack of feedback from the wheels, deviation from the trajectory when moving in a straight line. On cars with power steering, the steering wheel may rotate spontaneously and traces of liquid may appear under the car.
How to quickly check the steering rack without removing it?
For a quick preliminary check of the steering rack, just hit the side of the tire of the wheel of a stationary car. If a characteristic knock is heard, the steering rack or tips are most likely faulty.
How to check a contract steering rack?
You can independently check the contract steering rack visually by making sure there is no damage to the body, as well as by rotating the steering shaft and observing the operation of the mechanism. The condition of the teeth and bushings can be diagnosed only indirectly by the absence of backlash. More reliable diagnostics of contract and used steering racks is possible at a stand in a service station.
How long can you drive with a faulty steering rack?
It depends on the nature of the damage. Wear of the support bushings manifests itself mainly only as extraneous sounds, which does not in any way affect the control. Malfunctions in the hydraulic system, destruction of bearings or wear of the teeth of the worm pair can lead to an increase in the steering play beyond the permissible limit, its uneven rotation and jamming. Driving a car with such a malfunction is dangerous, so at the first sign of a problem, you need to check and repair or replace the steering rack.
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