3.16 Checking the condition and replacing the rubber pads of the engine mounts

I had been planning to build something like an overpass for a long time, and then chance forced me to do it. The engine mount support on the short one burst. On the passenger side, and everything inside was distorted. The engine bent at a slight angle, the CV joints changed their angle, and the clutch box also bent slightly. But it’s enough that it’s difficult to switch gears. I even left like that for a couple of days. Due to a breakdown, I didn’t go on the shorty to the “Forest Adventure 2014”, I was again a navigator. Well, okay, these are lyrics. I also didn’t know how to change the support when I bought a new support on the market for only 350 rubles, the seller said that it was possible to replace it. You just need to raise the engine. No sooner said than done. All the manipulations continue, the time that has passed is almost the entire bright day.

Engine mounts for VAZ cars - photo supports

Hello dear readers of the blog RtiIvaz.ru.
We have already looked at the rubber mounting pads for the muffler in the previous article. Now, in the section of auto repair kits, I will share with you my knowledge about rubber engine pads. On any modern car, the engine is mounted on engine pads made of elastic rubber, which serve to eliminate vibrations of the car body and reduce the noise of its operation. Every engine has its own weight, and engineers calculate the strength of each support based on the overload placed on it. When making pillows, manufacturers use natural rubber, a special grade of rubber SKI-3 of the first group, the highest grade, special glue, and also high-quality steel.

To reduce vibration to a minimum in the pads installed on cars of traditional VAZ 2101-07 models, damping elements are used, which are springs and rubber bumpers. The rear support of the unit of these models is the gearbox mounting traverse, with a built-in combined pad. It consists of two iron plates, with a layer of special rubber vulcanized between them.

The rear pad has two varieties depending on the type of checkpoint used on the car (Checkpoint - a point designed to control passage (visit) and access to the territory of any facility)

.
For a 4-speed checkpoint (Checkpoint - a point designed to control passage (visit) and entry into the territory of any facility),
one type of traverse and the pad itself and a different configuration for a 5-speed checkpoint
(Checkpoint point - a point designed to control passage (visit) and access to the territory of any facility)
. Engine mounts for the Niva VAZ-2121 differ from the mounts used on traditional VAZ models in that they are made with a huge margin of strength and are slightly larger in size. They are one hundred percent interchangeable with traditional models and can be installed on any model if necessary.

Because the engines of traditional models are mounted on a solid support, also aggressively fixed to the side members of the body, few requirements were placed on the rubber mounting of the classics. The emergence of front-wheel drive VAZ models required the development of new engine mounts that would meet the increased requirements. On the classics, these were literally the engine cushion, because the engine lay on their base, but in front-wheel drive models the engine no longer lies, but rests on them, which now have the purpose of being a support.

In addition to the fact that the support must dampen vibration from the motor, it must also withstand its greater weight, which is why the most stringent requirements are already placed on the supports. This applies both to the design of the support itself and to the material of its production. In addition, manufacturers try to apply several degrees of protection against counterfeiting in order to guarantee the buyer a high-quality product.

The engine support experiences overloads of various directions and is constantly in operation, even when the car is not moving, because it constantly supports the weight of the entire unit. When the car starts moving forward, there is one overload on the supports; when moving backwards, there is a reverse overload. The support absorbs overloads from sudden acceleration and braking, hitting obstacles or falling into a deep pothole and a huge number of other alternating loads.

Based on everything that has been said, you only need to get a set of rubber engine mounts that are industrially produced, made using technology and from proven sellers who guarantee their ability to be produced in a temperature range from -45 degrees cold to 70 degrees hot. Photos of engine cushions for VAZ cars, their design numbers according to the catalog: Let's look at photos of auto sets of ingenious cushions that reduce body vibration and engine swing, find out their design numbers according to the catalog, which cars are suitable for them. Let's not waste time, let's start with the classics 2101-2107.

Photo of the front engine mount assembly for cars of the classic 2101-2107 family. The VAZ repair kit consists of rubber, elastic, clever parts that reduce noise and vibration, on which the engine itself rests.

• Design number: 2101-1001020SB quantity 2 pieces

Photo of the rear engine mount assembly of the rubber 5-speed transmission of Lada 2101-2107, which is connected to the engine. Motor classics-2101; 2103; 2105; 2107 is supported by 3 elastic rubber supports, 2 front side right and left, and a rear “checkpoint (Checkpoint - a point designed to control passage (visit) and entry into the territory of any facility)

» boxes. They also come in 4-speed gearboxes, differing in their shape with just a small twist.

• Design number: 2107-1001045 quantity 1 piece

Let’s look at a photograph of the front motor support of the so-called “Baldy” of the family of front-wheel drive Lada cars from 2108 to 2115.

• Design number: 2108-1001015-10RU quantity 1 piece

Here is a photo of the engine mount, the side family of front-wheel drive VAZ cars from 2108 to 2115.

• Its design number: 2108-1001040-10 quantity 1 piece

Photo of the fastening of the rubber gearbox of the VAZ 2108-2115, which is connected to the engine. In general, the car engine is 2108; 2109; 2113; 2114; 2115 is supported on 3 engine mounts, the frontal so-called “baldy”, the side, and also the rear “checkpoint (Checkpoint - a point designed to control passage (visit) and access to the territory of any object)

" with a handle.

• Its design number: 2108-1001031-10RU quantity 1 piece

Chip tuning

This method is the cheapest since the engine does not undergo any technical changes. The work of chip tuning comes down to changing and adjusting the software in the ECU, which regulates work processes in the heating system. Using this type of tuning, power increases by 15%. Despite the fact that this method is the cheapest and makes it unnecessary to perform any manipulations with the power unit, it has its drawback: increasing power causes an increase in loads, thereby reducing its service life.

Replacing engine mount cushions

Engine mount : 1 – right engine mount bracket with pad; 2 – left engine mount bracket; 3 – pad; 4 – cross member of the rear engine mount; 5 – bracket with rear engine mount support

Remove the mudguards from the engine compartment.

For dismantling the pad of the right suspension support of the unit.

We place an adjustable stop under the generator bracket and lift the unit.

Using a mounting spatula, press out the pad and remove its pin from the hole in the engine mount bracket.

Similarly, remove the pad of the left support of the unit. With all this:

. Unscrew the nut securing the pad to the cross member bracket with a 17mm head.

. and place the support under the oil pan mounting bolt (on the left side).

Remove the pad on the left unit support.

If there are cracks, tears or peeling rubber on the support pads, replace the pads with new ones. We install the pads of the left and right supports of the unit in reverse order.

When installing the pad, the centering belt of the stud (located on one side of the pad).

To remove the rear support of the unit.

. Using a 17mm spanner, loosen the bolt securing the support to the cross member of the rear suspension of the unit.

Completely unscrew the bolt securing the support to the cross member.

. take it out.

To dismantle the cross member of the rear suspension of the unit, remove it from the studs, turn it and bring its left edge out from behind the front driveshaft.

Remove the cross member of the rear suspension of the unit.

Install the cross member and rear suspension support of the unit in reverse order.

Video

Source: lada-niva.ru

Tips for improving the “native” engine

In addition to the above changes, you can try using lightweight valves and guide bushings for them. This will reduce the resistance to the suction flow of the working mixture into the cylinders, improving filling capacity increases the power performance of the engine. It can be recommended to lighten the mass of the flywheel (see the article “Pros and cons of a lightweight flywheel”). It has areas where excess metal can be removed. Reducing its inertial mass saves power to overcome the moment of inertia of the engine.

You can also improve the performance of the engine by installing a tuning camshaft and a split gear in the timing drive. The installation of a so-called zero-resistance air filter will help improve the filling of the working cylinders with the air-fuel mixture. To improve the removal of exhaust gases, direct-flow exhaust systems are used. There are tuning engines with Solex carburetors, which have increased flow sections of the diffusers of the primary and secondary chambers. It is also advisable to replace the ignition system with a more modern, electronic contactless one.

Engine mount VAZ 2121, 21213-21214i, VAZ 2131, Chevrolet Niva

Dear customers, in order to avoid mistakes when sending engine mounts to a LADA 4x4 car, in the “Comment” line, indicate the model of your car, year of manufacture.

On the VAZ 2121-2131, 2123 there are 4 rubber-metal supports. Using central front and rear supports, the engine block is attached to a load-bearing transverse support laid below. The right support is attached to the front timing cover and the car frame. The left support is used to mount the transmission part of the unit on the frame.

The suspension mounts of the unit very occasionally need attention, but warped pads should be replaced without any delay to avoid increased loads and early wear of the transmission strip components.

The direct purpose of rubber supports is to reduce vibrations. When the car moves, powerful vibrations occur, transmitted from the engine to the body. So that the ride is very comfortable, and the driver is not distracted by extraneous noise and jolts, pads are installed. Without rubber softeners, driving a car would be like riding a cart, just as loud and shaking.

Structurally, the supports are made by vulcanizing rubber based on natural rubber between iron washers and a threaded core.

The vibration of the engine, which occurs when any of the rubber cushions rupture or devulcanize, depends on the serviceability of the VAZ 2121-2131, 2123 engine mounts on which it rests.

The rattling of the checkpoint handle is very annoying for car owners (Checkpoint is a point designed to control passage (visit) and access to the territory of any facility)

boxes. Vibration in the engine can also occur when the rubber of the support becomes hard “oak” and loses its shock-absorbing characteristics.

We began to notice a strange knocking noise from the engine department. When driving on an uneven road with potholes and bumps, the sound appears, but when accelerating or on a flat road it is lost. The engine fasteners are most likely to be damaged, which means it's time to look under the hood. And if the knocking is accompanied by powerful vibration of the body, there is a problem with the engine mounts.

As practice shows, the rubber pads of the supports do not fail individually and, most importantly, their mileage is on average similar, which means that it is most profitable, although not the cheapest, to replace all the pads in the set at once. This will increase their overall resource, saving YOU from another migraine when an unreplaced rubber pad fails on the road.

The main damage to the pad is loss of elasticity. The support is made of rubber, which loses its characteristics with prolonged use. This is a prerequisite for constant overload, accompanied by changing weather conditions (cold, heat). In the future, the pad begins to collapse: burst, harden and delaminate, which leads to the emergence of additional unnecessary loads on the main parts of the machine.

To prevent destruction of rubber ones, you need to inspect them often. If damage is detected, the part should be replaced; otherwise, powerful vibration and extraneous knocking will be felt in the cabin, which will soon affect the operation of the engine.

It is better to change the pads in time than to spend money later on expensive repairs or buying a new engine.

It is recommended to lubricate all engine pads with special protective substances. This significantly extends their service life.

In order to extend the service life of the engine mounts, you should also check whether the bolts are tightened properly and remove dirt from them from time to time. Only constant monitoring will help delay the occurrence of engine mount defects.

Manufacturer's warranty: 100,000 km, subject to compliance with installation and operation rules.

Other articles of the product and its analogues in the catalogs: 21210100102000, 21210100102082, T-00808, 2121-1001020RU.

VAZ 2121, VAZ 21213-21214 i, VAZ 2131, VAZ 2123, VAZ 2120.

No matter what the breakdown is, it’s not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to independently change the engine mount on a NIVA family car.

AvtoAzbuka Web Store, repair costs will be minimal.

Just COMPARE and BE SURE.

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Source: avtoazbuka.net

What do they do with the injectors?

They can also be somewhat modernized, and the first thing they may recommend to you is to reprogram the electronic control unit (see “Pros and cons of chip tuning”). Next, they resort to installing a compressor in the engine power supply system. Use model PK-23-1

, it develops a pressure of about 0.5 bar. Bosch 107 Volga injectors for it

.

You can also boost the engine with a turbine (again, see the article “Which is better, a turbine or a compressor”), but this is the most financially expensive method. We hope that our story provides an answer to the question of how to increase the power of a Chevrolet Niva engine, but whether it’s worth doing is up to you to decide. Often, the result of increasing engine power can be a decrease in its service life.

Engine mounts from classics to the field

Warm greetings to everyone. I would like to install pads on the Nivo, but someone writes that after them the vibration starts even stronger, someone else starts to work more smoothly. Tell me who has encountered it)

The motor rises slightly and yes, vibrations occur, but they are negligible.

I replaced the original pads with new ones, the vibration became even stronger, now I’m thinking about installing one from the Niva...

the field is harder than a pillow. traditional with a spring inside, and Niva solid with welded fasteners

So I’m thinking, with hard pads, maybe it will be less sausagey? at the moment I can move the engine a couple of cm with my hands. Is it normal...

Maybe I didn’t turn it enough? Vibrations may appear.

no, everything is fine with that

If it wobbles, install another support.

Have you tried adjusting the carburetor and ignition? so as not to get sick

I tried this and that. Well, I wouldn’t say that it’s just sausage.) I just want the engine to work perfectly.)

there shouldn't be one because of the pillows

I have Niva pads, and the engine stands rooted to the spot even at high speeds! And it can still be unstable due to the air intake (most often it happens through the intake manifold!

Well, here we go again. Some write it’s not worth it, others say it’s worth it. What to do)

Well, decide as you know, but my word is this: I’ve been working at a car service center for several years now (I deal with engines) for all clients on the Niva classics - I put pillows on the capital by default, no problems have ever appeared and clients have not complained! and if the engine is forced like mine, at least the drain pads tear at the first quick start, I checked!

Created by scoryc, September 17, 2011

A few words about the standard engine

The modernized engine received the index 2123, it was changed only because of the engine compartment, but everything remained from the old engine and is easily interchangeable with 21214. Its production began in 1994, the block is made of cast iron. The head has two valves per cylinder, the pistons were installed with a diameter of 82 mm, and their stroke remained the same and equal to 80 mm. The increased diameter of the piston made it possible to increase, albeit slightly, its power; it became equal to 81 hp, with a compression ratio of approximately 9.4.

When operating at a speed of approximately 3,000 per minute, the maximum possible torque of 125 NxM is obtained. The fuel recommended by the plant is AI 93 gasoline, but its appetite is somewhat voracious, ranging from 10 to 12 liters per 100 km. mileage Its mass is 117 kg. The design provides for an overhead camshaft and a timing chain drive.

In the new Niva, they changed the method of installing the unit in the engine compartment, as well as the location and fastening of attachments. As an advantage, we can note the installation of hydraulic compensators for valves and a chain tensioner. Disadvantages include noise and slight vibration of the engine. Manufacturers claim its resource is approximately 80,000 km. mileage, but practically it is much higher and can reach up to 200 thousand.

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Reg.: 11/29/2011 Messages: 272 From: Voronezh Age: 31 Car: 2121 1990.

Reg.: 02/28/2013 Messages: 35 From: Our homeland Tambov region Age: 38 Car: VAZ 21213 1996

Reg.: 09/19/2010 Messages: 149 From: Voronezh-36 Age: 35 Car: OPEL ASTRA GTC 2010 and VAZ-21213 1998.

Reg.: 12/22/2008 Messages: 1713 From: 1 Auto: 1

Reg.: 09/19/2010 Messages: 149 From: Voronezh-36 Age: 35 Car: OPEL ASTRA GTC 2010 and VAZ-21213 1998.

Reg.: 09/12/2013 Messages: 262 From: Kazakhstan, Temirtau Age: 46 Car: 21214M 2012.

Reg.: 12/22/2008 Messages: 1713 From: 1 Auto: 1

Reg.: 09/12/2013 Messages: 262 From: Kazakhstan, Temirtau Age: 46 Car: 21214M 2012.

Reg.: 12/22/2008 Messages: 1713 From: 1 Auto: 1

I’ve had it on the Zhigulevskie for a year and haven’t had any problems. An injection engine may be heavier. If the supports (all three) are not visually deformed, then I advise you to slip several wide washers between the support and the engine bracket until the contact with the catalyst is eliminated.

Added after 1 minute 29 seconds:

In order not to completely unscrew, you can test thick camber horseshoe washers.

Reg.: 04/01/2006 Threads / Messages: 2 / 2285 From: St. Petersburg Age: 41 Car: VAZ 21213 1.9l 1999

Reg.: 12/22/2008 Messages: 1713 From: 1 Auto: 1

Reg.: 09/12/2013 Messages: 262 From: Kazakhstan, Temirtau Age: 46 Car: 21214M 2012.

Reg.: 12/12/2011 Messages: 881 From: Our Motherland, M/O, Ivashkovo Age: 49 Car: Niva 21213 1995 GAZ 31105 2004

Reg.: 08/26/2008 Messages: 72 From: Novosibirsk Age: 68 Car: 21213 94g

Vibrations from the engine are transmitted even less, especially when at idle. § + alex25037

Reg.: 09.12.2013 Messages: 211 From: Kazakhstan, Temirtau Age: 43 Car: 21214M 2012. PM 06/08/2015 23:57

Source: l2rv.ru

Removing engine mounts VAZ 21213, 21214 (Niva)

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or a lift.

To remove the right engine mount pad...

... using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the nut securing the pad to the engine mount bracket (the generator has been removed for clarity).

Using a 17mm spanner, unscrew the nut securing the pad to the cross member bracket.

Remove the thickened washer.

We place an adjustable stop under the generator bracket and lift the unit.

Using a mounting spatula, press out the pad and remove its pin from the hole in the engine mount bracket.

... and remove the right support pad.

Similarly, remove the pad of the left support of the unit. With all this:

... unscrew the nut securing the pad to the cross member bracket with a 17mm head.

... and place the support under the oil pan mounting bolt (on the left side).

Remove the pad on the left unit support.

If there are cracks, tears or peeling rubber on the support pads, replace the pads with new ones. We install the pads of the left and right supports of the unit in reverse order.

When installing the pad, the centering belt of the stud (located on one side of the pad).

... must fit into the corresponding hole in the cross member bracket.

To remove the rear unit support...

... using a 17mm spanner, loosen the bolt securing the support to the cross member of the rear suspension of the unit.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the four nuts securing the cross member to the body.

Having completely unscrewed the bolt securing the support to the cross member,...

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two nuts securing the support bracket to the back cover of the box.

To dismantle the cross member of the rear suspension of the unit, remove it from the studs, turn it and bring its left edge out from behind the front driveshaft.

Remove the cross member of the rear suspension of the unit.

Install the cross member and rear suspension support of the unit in reverse order.

Source: tuningtaza.ru

OFA engine pad economical option

#1 RuslanE

#2 Guest_Truzzer_*

#3 Alexey Barnaul

I did the same on Truper 2.6. Couldn't screw it in, about 5 mm. The mounting holes to the body do not match. But I didn’t push it with a pry bar against my will. I installed it from the classics - it’s completely steel. Let's see how long it will last.

#4 RuslanE

#5 Bender

#6 Goblin29

#7 ksrg

#8 dirty_rain

#9 Bender

Here is a photo of the newest pillows, maybe it will help?

#10 Aristarchus

Thank you very much everyone! – the info just helped out! I didn’t have my hopes up in the newest photos. With their help, not only assembly, but also alignment became approximately clear. Correct answer:

#11 OFA

Where is the prize for the correct answer?

#12 andira2002

Thank you very much everyone! – the info just helped out! I didn’t have my hopes up in the newest photos. With their help, not only assembly, but also alignment became approximately clear. Correct answer:

Attached images

#13 RuslanE

and the back one can be created from 2 traditional ones..

#14 andira2002

What about vibration, as demonstrated by operation? On my original (not torn) box, it was dangling like a yuk in a washstand, I put an elastic band down, it became stiffer, but it seems the vibration increased.

#15 romman

practice has shown that it’s simply unsurpassed... the vibration is gone... you just need to sharpen the right one a little on the edge so that it doesn’t cling to the cardan... and put the bolts on top...

#16 andira2002

I would weld the pads into the original iron. It’s easier to install and change in the future IMHO

#17 Bender

Here is a photo of the newest pillows, maybe it will help?

#18 andira2002

And who understands the height of native pillows? The collective farm did not get up from the field. It turned out a bit high. The engine went up high - the valve cover did not stop. Or, maybe, it was necessary to move the Niv pad very high in the native hardware? Or go with the classics - are they 5mm lower? We need to decide this evening. Help whoever can.

#19 Bender

I would weld the pads into the original iron. It’s easier to install and change in the future IMHO

liftani body and everything will always interfere.

#20 RuslanE

And who understands the height of native pillows? The collective farm did not get up from the field. It turned out a bit high. The engine went up high - the valve cover did not stop. Or, maybe, it was necessary to move the Niv pad very high in the native hardware? Or go with the classics - are they 5mm lower? We need to decide this evening. Help whoever can.

Source: forum4x4club.ru