Method one: Sawn springs
This method of underestimation has found popularity among young people. This is due to the fact that most young people do not have large sums of money to spend on tuning their cars. This method of lowering a car is the cheapest and fastest, but far from the most reliable and safe.
So, let's take a closer look at how to cut springs on the Lada Priora and VAZ 2110.
Washed down the springs on the VAZ 2110
The suspension of the Priora and 2110 cars is slightly different in the design of the shock absorber strut. The Priora uses a barrel spring, while the VAZ 2110 uses a coil spring.
Coil spring VAZ 2110
In order to lower the car using the spring method, you need to decide on the amount of lowering of the car. It is not recommended to cut the springs more than 3 turns at the front, since the strut will compress and the upper cup of the shock absorber will rest against the bump stop, therefore, the shock absorber may not function properly.
The springs of the rear shock absorbers can be sawed up to 5 turns, after which the same thing awaits you as with the front shock absorbers, the bump stop will rest against the rear spar. It follows that the shock absorber will not work correctly and there can be no talk of any driving comfort.
Washed down the springs on the Lada Priora
You can file the spring on a Priora, but it is not recommended to saw the front springs. The front spring of the Priora, as described above, has a barrel shape, therefore, after washing it down, it will lose its shape and will not fit into the groove of the shock absorber cup. Some craftsmen, after washing down such a spring, heat it up and give it a similar shape.
It is strongly not recommended to use this method, since when heated, the spring loses its properties and elasticity, becomes more fragile and susceptible to rupture or breakage, which can lead to dire consequences.
Sawed barrel spring
The rear springs of the Priora can be cut in exactly the same way as the springs of the VAZ 2110, because they are absolutely the same.
Step-by-step instructions for cutting down a spring
In order to safely file down the spring, the strut must be removed from the vehicle.
The first step is to prepare the necessary tool. It's better to use a key set
Removing the front struts
To remove the front struts you will need the following tools:
- Open-end wrenches for “13”, “17”, “19”, “22”;
- Hexagon at "6";
- Socket heads or wrenches for “13”, “17”, “19”, “22”;
- Anti-rust liquid WD-40, etc. (by the way, if you don’t have WD-40, you can use kerosene, antifreeze or diesel fuel)
- Hammer, pry bar and pliers
- Steering wheel end remover.
Tie Rod Remover
So, let's start disassembling the car.
- 1. It is necessary to jack up the side on which the spring will be washed down, having previously loosened the wheel mounting bolts 4 pcs. Do not forget to put chocks under the rear wheels of the car so that it does not roll forward or backward.
- 2. Remove the wheel from the car and place it under the threshold of the car. This action will help prevent damage to parts of the machine if it falls from the jack.
- 3. Next, you should loosen the nut securing the rod to the front shock absorber support in advance; for this you will need a hex socket set to “6” and a wrench set to “22”.
- 4. Unscrew the steering end mount with the head on “17”, having first pulled out the cotter pin. And we press it out of the rack axle using a puller or a hammer and a pry bar.
- 5. Pull out the brake hose and ABS wire from the seats in the rack.
- 6. Unscrew the bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle using keys “17” and “19”.
- 7. Unscrew the three bolts securing the shock absorber support to the strut with a head set to “13”.
- 8. Take out the stand.
Next we should proceed directly to disassembling the shock absorber, here we will need spring ties
- 9. We tighten the spring with ties on both sides.
- 10. Unscrew the nut securing the support and remove it, then remove the spring and the bump stop with the boot.
The stand is disassembled, you can start cutting. The number of turns must be measured from the beginning of the turn on the spring. We saw the spring with a grinder.
We assemble the rack in the reverse order. You should pay attention to the washers under the rack support and install them in the correct sequence as shown in the photo.
The sawn spring must be installed with the cut coil down.
We carry out exactly the same action with the opposite side.
Removing the rear struts
To remove the rear struts you will need much less tools than to remove the front ones.
Tools required to remove rear struts:
- Keys to "17", "19"
- A special key for unscrewing the rear shock absorber rod.
Wrench for unscrewing the rear shock absorber rod
Step-by-step instructions for removing the rear shock absorber of Lada Priora and 2110
There is no need to use zip ties to replace rear shock absorbers
- Loosen the bolts securing the wheel to the hub.
- In the luggage compartment of the car, bend (unscrew if necessary) the trunk lining so that access to the rear spar is free. Loosen the nut securing the rear shock absorber rod to the spar.
- Jack up the side on which the spring will be cut. Do not forget to put chocks under the front wheels of the car so that it does not roll forward or backward. Remove the wheel from the car and place it under the threshold of the car. This action will help prevent damage to parts of the machine if it falls from the jack.
- Unscrew the bolt securing the shock absorber to the rear beam of the car.
- Unscrew the shock absorber rod from the rear side member of the vehicle.
- We take out the strut, you need to lower the strut all the way down, squeeze the shock absorber rod, pull out the spring with the boot and bump stop, and then the shock absorber itself.
That's it, the rear strut has been removed from the car, you can start cutting down the spring.
It is necessary to count the number of turns and cut the spring exactly opposite the beginning of the spring turn.
Reassembly of the rear shock absorber should be done in reverse order..
Examples of cars with sawn springs
Sawn springs front 3 turns rear 5 turns
Sawn springs front 2 turns rear 3 turns
Advantages and disadvantages of sawn springs
Disadvantages of lowering a car by filing down the springs:
- There is no comfort when driving such a car.
- There is no way to travel on a country road.
- The spring may fly out of the shock absorber cup.
- Immediate failure of shock absorbers.
Advantages of lowering a car by filing springs:
- Cheap and easy to use.
Understatement -70/-90 at 2114
Greetings to my subscribers. Well, as we understand, we will talk about underestimation. For a long time I wanted to lower the car, but never got around to it. So I drove for 7 years without understating it. The factory suspension was there all along. I drove 78 thousand on it. Well, more or less the suspension was still alive.
So I chose Aston struts, SS-20 cups, Technoresor springs, rear donuts, SS-20 sound insulators too, Demfi bumpers, TRT balls with polyurethane covers, I also installed polyurethane boots on the front and rear. At first it was very unusual to drive with such a lowered suspension, but I got used to it and even began to like it. Now it’s possible to maneuver at a relatively high speed, there is no roll at all, the car seems to be nailed to the road. Very pleased with the stands. I didn't put spacers on the balls. I also replaced the external grenade covers with polyurethane ones.
Method two: Short-travel struts
This method is currently used along with cutting down springs. On the streets of the city you can see a huge number of cars with such racks. It gained wide popularity due to its simplicity, reliability and comfort. Also, short-travel struts have a wide range of vehicle height options. Any car enthusiast can choose the optimal understatement for himself.
Lowering with the help of short-stroke struts practically does not change the design of the car and does not cause any harm to it, unlike silting of the spring. Lowering in this way occurs by changing the height of the rod itself and the strut cartridge, and by installing an already obviously shortened spring.
Types of short-travel struts and springs
There are a large number of short-stroke struts that have their own characteristics. Let's look at a few examples of racks.
Short-travel struts are classified by lowering height, that is, each strut has its own size.
For example: -30, - 50, -70, -90, -120
What do these numbers mean?! The number indicates the size in mm by which the stand rod and cartridge are shortened. Therefore, a rack with index -30 is shortened by 30 mm, a rack with index -50 is shortened by 50 mm, etc.
Racks are also classified according to their stiffness zone. Comfort and sport.
Comfort racks
Such struts have a softer degree of compression, which ensures comfort when driving. There is no shaking or knocking in the car when using such racks.
Sports racks
Sport struts are used for tuned cars with non-standard engines. Such struts provide positive dynamics when driving on the highway; the car experiences minimal roll when turning.
Springs
In combination with short-throw struts, shortened springs are used.
The classification of such springs is similar to the classification of struts. Springs are: -30, -50, -70, -120. The spring stiffness is exactly the same as that of the struts: comfort and sport.
Springs also come with variable and regular coils. Springs that use variable coil technology have less rigidity. Such springs should be installed on racks marked “comfort”.
Variable Coil Springs
Such struts can be installed in standard places with standard components; for example, to install short-stroke struts there is no need to change the support bearing and boots.
The most popular brands of short-stroke struts and springs: SS20, ASTON, TechnoRessor and Demfi .
Examples of cars with installed short-travel struts and springs
Lada Priora with lowering -50
Lada Priora with lowering - 70
Advantages and disadvantages of short-travel struts
Advantages of short-travel struts:
- Comfort while driving;
- There is no damage to the car;
- Large selection of rack heights;
Disadvantages of short travel struts:
- Inability to adjust vehicle height;
- Difficult traffic on a country road;
Owner reviews
Owners of the Lada 2114 note the more modern and beautiful appearance of the car when comparing the model with the VAZ-2112 or, even more so, with the “nine”. The car is even worth its price, especially when you compare it even with used foreign cars. The hatchback, according to owners' reviews, is quite easy to drive.
The latest versions received front electric windows, an on-board computer, a heated rear window, and so on. The power plant turned out to be quite playful. I can't help but be pleased with the ground clearance, which allows the car to be used not only for city trips.
The domestic hatchback is unpretentious in maintenance. The cost of spare parts is not as scary as for the same foreign cars. With such a fairly agile power unit, fuel consumption is within normal limits. The car is ideal for tuning lovers, as it has a large springboard for modernization options both outside and inside. It is worth mentioning the excellent aerodynamics.
On the other hand, it is important to take into account the far from best assembly and the very quality of finishing materials. Drivers of the VAZ-2114 complain about unreliability, lack of free space inside the car, low quality iron and paint materials. Often a car is purchased for a family, but the 14th model suffers in terms of safety, because it doesn’t even have a driver’s airbag.
Also, the car does not have air conditioning and often breaks down. There is a feeling of discomfort during long trips. The seats lack good lateral support. The front panel plastic is quite hard.
Method three: Air suspension.
Lada Priora with air suspension.
This method is the most expensive and difficult to install. To install the air suspension, the car must be completely disassembled. Install special equipment; besides, air suspension is not suitable for cold seasons. Quite often it happens that condensation appears in the tubes, which in cold weather can lead to a blockage in the air channel.
To install this method of understatement, qualified specialists will be required. Large set of tools and equipment. To install the air suspension you will need: a receiver, a compressor, hoses, pipes, special racks, sleeves, etc.
The installation of air suspension has not found much popularity due to its high cost and capriciousness. Due to the large amount of reagents on the road, air leaks often appear in the system, which makes it impossible to drive a car. Also, using a car in winter is quite problematic.
Advantages and disadvantages of air suspension
Pros of air suspension:
- Possibility of changing clearance
Disadvantages of air suspension:
- High cost and complexity of installation;
- Inability to move in cold weather;
- Taking away useful space in the trunk;
Car history
As mentioned above, the production of the “14th model” lay at the Volzhsky Automobile Plant. The car, which was equipped with a new name “Lada 2114 Samara-2”, was created on the platform of the famous VAZ-2109. Many owners of “nines” are already tired of the outdated front panel, so the new Europanel is very popular among drivers.
Serial production of the domestic hatchback began in 2003. The Lada-2114 Samara was equipped with the already familiar four-cylinder eight-valve 1.5-liter power plant, which was able to prove itself well in the 2109 model. When 2007 arrived, the car underwent an update that affected the technical part.
The line of power units has been replenished with a brand new 8-valve 1.6-liter engine. The catalyst was now installed directly next to the internal combustion engine, and it also received a plastic housing. The changes also affected the dashboard. The company pleased drivers with the presence of an on-board computer. The glove compartment in the upper part disappeared, and the panel itself was finished with hard plastic.
After 3 years, specialists significantly modernized the VAZ-2114 in 2010. Now under the hood of the domestic hatchback there was a sixteen-valve power unit from the Lada Priora.
Thanks to cooperation with the Recaro company, it was possible to equip the car with new seats and suspension. Production of the Lada VAZ-2114 was discontinued on December 24, 2013. The “transitional” version, represented by the 14th model, was successfully replaced by a new version from Lada – Priora.
RESULT
Bottom line: to lower a car, it is best to use short-travel struts. Such racks are the most suitable option for everything in terms of price and quality.
It should be noted that with a measured lowering of -120 mm, it is necessary to saw the right spar. Due to the very low lowering, the right-hand drive wheel will touch the car body. The photo shows how the drive rests on the car body.
Also, when carrying out any actions, it is imperative to have the wheel geometry done at a service station upon completion of the repair.
We hope our article was useful to you.
What kind of breakdowns will a novice driver encounter?
The driver who bought the “fourteenth” as his first car receives a real simulator for real driving. But the car is Russian, something will always break down in it. Here is what the former owner of the VAZ-2114, Igor Bolshakov from Yekaterinburg, said about the breakdowns:
“I drove a three-year-old “fourteenth” for several years. I bought it in 2010 with a mileage of 58 thousand km. This was my first car, so I didn’t choose alone, but with knowledgeable people. They pointed out to me the rust in the front wheel arches. Therefore, immediately after the purchase, according to the advice, I carried out anti-corrosion treatment, and also changed the oil and installed a spacer.
There were no engine knocks at idle, but the gearbox hummed and the lever vibrated. In winter, antifreeze was quickly used up. I was also surprised by the considerable gas consumption (a tank lasts 250-300 km). There were minor breakdowns: the generator belt broke, the lights needed to be replaced and minor electrical repairs were required.
However, there were also advantages: the car started well in cold weather, there were no complaints about the suspension or engine, the high seating position was pleasing, and, most importantly, the car drove. Overall, there were no big disappointments: I knew what I was buying. But we still had to invest in repairs and maintenance.”
If a novice driver does not have repair skills and money to visit auto repair shops, a broken car may be laid up.
Also read: What cars do residents of megacities buy instead of VAZ?
