Ignition relay for VAZ 2114 - where is it located, how to change it

Sometimes during the operation of the car, the driver may notice that the electronics in it have begun to act up, the heater and windshield wipers have begun to work intermittently, and the engine has difficulty starting. The cause of such problems, in most cases, is the small ignition relay 2114. In today’s article we will talk about what it is responsible for, where it is located and how to properly replace it.

Ignition relay VAZ 2114

Where is the ignition relay located in a VAZ-2114 car?

If a car owner independently monitors the technical serviceability of his four-wheeled friend, then he must feel his car and know exactly where this or that element is located in order to quickly replace a component that has become unusable with a new one.
For example, the driver may notice the following:

the furnace fan will start to work intermittently;
The windshield wiper and glass heating either turn on normally or refuse to work;
the engine started to have trouble starting.

You should not immediately look for a breakdown in the starter or car module, because most often such a breakdown is caused by a starter relay that has become unusable. Experts do not recommend repairing such an element, since a failed element, even if it is thoroughly repaired, will very soon show signs of malfunction again, so the entire replacement operation will have to be repeated again. Replacing the so-called relay yourself is quite simple, but before doing this you should know exactly where the ignition relay is located on the VAZ-2114. We will deal with this issue, as well as with independent replacement of the “relay”, further in this article.

Mechanism of action

Where is the starter relay located in a Lada Priora car?

When the car's ignition is turned off, the armature is extended thanks to a spring. In this case, the bendix is not engaged with the flywheel. When the ignition key is turned to a different position, voltage is transferred to the relay contacts. With the help of the magnetic field created by the retractor coil, the armature is driven. He moves back and compresses the spring. The contacts close and the voltage passes through them to the starter. During this period, the pull-in winding is turned off, and the holding winding is connected.

As the armature moves, the fork moves. It moves along the rotor (shaft). At the same time, the bendix moves and the flywheel engages with the gear. When the ignition key is released, no voltage is supplied to the holding coil. The spring returns to its place. The anchor rises in its original position. The Bendix gear with the flywheel crown is disconnected under the influence of the fork.

Ignition relay location

Finding the location of the ignition relay is quite simple, because this element in the VAZ-2114 injector is located on the left side of the steering wheel, and a decorative cover protects it from the eyes. A photo on an online resource will help you find out what this element looks like. In some cases, replacing an old relay with a new one does not require removing the protective casing. To do this, you just need to reach the relay with your hand, which you need to insert into a special hole located under the steering wheel.

But this replacement stage is not very convenient, so experts recommend that car owners still remove the protective cover when replacing the ignition relay, especially since such an operation is quite simple and easy.

Step-by-step replacement of the ignition relay

If during the inspection it turns out that the ignition switch relay has failed, then experts do not recommend repairing this element, as was previously said. To buy a new relay, minimal cash costs will be required, and every car enthusiast can make a replacement if all operations are carried out in stages:

The most important thing to do first is to disconnect the battery from the power supply; to do this, simply disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
When using a screwdriver, it is best to use a slotted tool. You need to unscrew the 4 fasteners from the steering column casing to simplify the process of removing the “relay”.
The latch holding the lower part of the casing is most conveniently unscrewed using a Phillips screwdriver.
The casing, loosened from the fasteners, is carefully removed from its place.
The ignition relay is connected to wires that are located at the bottom of the block. To replace an element that has become unusable, you simply disconnect the wires from the block and install a new one in place of the old relay.

After this, you need to check the result of your own work by starting the engine of your car. If the fault does not show itself, it means that the replacement process was completed correctly, and the car owner can be proud of his next, albeit small, but still achievement.

After reading this article, everyone should understand that the process of replacing this device is simple and straightforward. And since the “relay” rarely fails, VAZ-2114 owners do not constantly have to perform such an operation. But if difficulties arise when replacing the ignition switch relay, you should never despair, because you can find the answer to any question in a training video on the Internet resource, which you can watch both day and night.

The training video lesson was prepared and conducted by true professionals who thoroughly understand all stages of car repair. Therefore, everyone will be able to obtain additional information on replacing the relay and determine its exact location from the photo. Well, after watching the training video, the replacement process will become even simpler and you can be sure that every car enthusiast can handle this task.

There is a click, but the starter does not turn

If you clearly hear the relay click when you turn on the ignition, the problem is most likely in the starter itself. Perhaps the brushes are worn out, or there is a break in one of the windings. In any case, further diagnostics without dismantling the device is impossible. If a break in the windings is detected, you can try to restore the starting device by entrusting it to winding winding specialists. If things are generally bad with it, it is better to buy a new starter 2114. The price for it varies between 3700-5000 rubles.

Fuses and relays VAZ 2114, 2115, 2113

Today, every car, regardless of type, is equipped with special protection for all electrical systems. This protection is called a fuse. They are installed so that in the event of a short circuit or malfunction, the system can turn off via a fuse, thereby protecting itself from breakdown. Fuses are used for every electrical circuit, from a small light bulb to an engine's ignition system. More important engine systems are equipped with special relays, they protect various pumps, electric motors and other powerful sources of electricity consumption.

The fuse is a small structure consisting of a plastic casing with a fusible element inside. If a short circuit occurs, the thin contact melts under the influence of current, which interrupts the electric current. The simplest electrical fuse is a thin copper wire inserted into a circuit. If the upper limit of the supplied current increases, the contact begins to melt and interrupts the flow of electricity. Here there is a description of all fuses and relays for VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 models of injection and carburetor types, old and new models.

Common faults

In the mounting block, the cooling fan fuse often blows, as well as the cigarette lighter fuse on the VAZ 2114. The cigarette lighter on this VAZ model often shorts out on its own; you can call this a factory defect. Another reason for burnout is the installation of various devices of higher power in the cigarette lighter socket, for example, a compressor for inflating tires. But before changing the fuse for the VAZ 2114 cigarette lighter, you need to check the condition of the cigarette lighter socket itself. Often a device is inserted into the socket by twisting the plug, and the cigarette lighter block begins to dangle and short out. In this case, the wire going to the cigarette lighter may fray or break, and for this reason the fuse will constantly blow.

The fuse link (20A) of the cooling fan is also loaded with an audio signal, so you can determine a blown fuse F5 by the absence of a car horn. Another fuse link, responsible for the operation of the fan, is installed in the car interior next to the engine ECU under the dashboard. Fuses can blow due to a short circuit in the fan motor - standard fans are not very reliable and often fail.

Contacts often burn out and tracks on the mounting block burn out due to a short circuit in the electrical circuit. When moisture gets on the connector pads, the contacts oxidize. The power supply unit in the VAZ 2114 model is considered a rather weak element and requires repair or replacement. It should be noted that the mounting block 2114 is quite problematic to repair, so if a malfunction occurs in it, you should think about replacing it. The cost of a power supply unit for a front-wheel drive VAZ ranges from 2 thousand to 3 thousand rubles. But it’s better to replace a burnt-out unit than to go through the hassle of restoring it.

Interpretation of fuses and relays of injection models

The main electrical fuse module 2114-3722010-60 is located under the front engine compartment. This arrangement allows for quick access to all electrical systems of the car.

Block location

Please note that the location of the electrical fuse module may depend on the type of equipment and year of manufacture of the vehicle. As a rule, this is the upper right part of the engine compartment, under the front windshield. The mounting block is made of plastic in the form of a rectangular box. To protect against accidental opening, the box is equipped with special latches. To open the module, you need to snap off the two protective brackets and lift the top plastic protection. Under the cover are all the main control relays and electrical fuses of the vehicle.

To quickly remove the fuse, special plastic pliers are located on the plastic protection cover. With their help, you can very easily get any element. You need to grab the top edge of the plastic case with pliers and carefully lift the element.

For the convenience of the user, on the top plastic cover there is a complete diagram, made in the form of a schematic image, which shows all the electrical fuses and relays indicating the current strength (A).

Fuse and relay diagram for injection models

Table 1. Explanation of fuses and relays 2114-3722010-60

№	Current, A	Explanation of fuses
F1	10	Rear fog lights, rear fog light indicator lamp
F2	10	Turn signals and turn signal breaker relay. Alarm system. Hazard warning lamp
F3	7,5	Interior and luggage compartment lighting systems (interior lamp, luggage compartment lamp, ignition key illumination). Brake brake lamp, on-board computer backlight lamp. Engine control lamp
F4	20	Rear window heating control. Portable lamp connection socket
F5	20	Relay for monitoring and turning on the sound signal. Cooling system engine switch fuse and relay
F6	30	Control and relay switching on electric windows
F7	30	Electric motor control - heating system, interior heater, windshield washers, headlight cleaners. Interior cigarette lighter, glove box lamp. Turn on the heated rear window.
F8	7,5	Turning on the right fog lamp
F9	7,5	Turning on the left fog light
F10	7,5	Side light for the left side body, indicator light for turning on the side lights (on the display), lamps for illuminating the license plate and engine compartment, illumination lamp for switches, cigarette lighter, heater control levers. Instrument lighting switch.
F11	7,5	Right side body marker light
F12	7,5	Front right low beam headlight
F13	7,5	Front left low beam headlight
F14	7,5	Front left high beam headlight. Light indicator lamp.
F15	7,5	Front right high beam lamp.
F16	15	Body turn signals, relay-breaker for turn signals and hazard warning lights. Control relay and reverse lamps, indicator lamps for the on-board instrument control system, lamps for oil pressure, handbrake activation, brake fluid level, battery charge. On-board computer, engine generator winding.
F17-F20	Spares
№		Relay circuit
K1		Headlight cleaners
K2		Turn signals and hazard warning lights
K3		Windshield wiper
K4		Monitoring the serviceability of brake light lamps and side lamps
K5		Window lifters
K6		Sound signal
K7		Heated rear window
K8		High beam headlights
K9		Low beam headlights

Decoding fuses and relays of block 2114-3722010-18

VAZ-2114, 2115, 2113 cars of the first models with a carburetor have certain differences in the fuse module.

Old style block fuse and relay diagram

Table 2. Decoding of fuses and relays of block 2114-3722010-18

№	Current, A	Explanation of fuses
F9	7,5	Right rear fog lamp
F8	7,5	Left rear fog lamp
F1	10	Front headlight cleaners at the moment of switching on, wiper contacts, headlight washer switch valve, headlight wiper switch relay contacts
F7	30	Front headlight wipers during operation, winding of the relay for turning on the wipers, fuse for the interior heater, windshield washer, gearbox and timing controller for the rear window wiper, valves for turning on the front and rear washer, relay (winding) for turning on the engine cooling system, relay for turning on the rear window heating, glove box lighting, rear window heating control lamp
F16	15	Turn signal indicators and activation of hazard warning lights in turn mode, indicator control lamp, reversing lights, gearbox and relay for activation of windshield washers, generator winding (at startup), control lamps for brake fluid, oil pressure, carburetor flap, hand brake. "STOP" display lamp, voltmeter and coolant temperature indicator
F3	10	Interior lighting and rear brake light
F6	30	Power windows, power windows on/off relay
F10	7,5	License plate lights, engine compartment lamp, warning light on the dashboard (exterior lighting), instrument panel lights, cigarette lighter light, heating lever lights
F5	20	Relay for turning on the cooling system fan (electric motor), sound signal.
F10	7,5	Left front marker light Left rear marker light
F11	7,5	Right front headlight, right rear headlight
F2	10	Hazard warning lamp, turn signals and hazard warning relay.
F4	20	Rear heated glass, heating on, portable socket, cigarette lighter in the cabin
F15	7,5	Front right high beam
F14	7,5	Front left high beam Light switch
F13	7,5	Left low beam
F12	7,5	Right low beam
№		Relay circuit
K1		Headlight washers
K2		Hazard and turn signals
K3		Windshield wipers
K4		Monitoring the health of lamps
K5		Windows
K6		Sound signal
K7		Heated rear window
K8		High beam headlights
K9		Low beam headlights

Starter, ignition, rear fog lamp relay

In order to carry out quick checks and repairs, the ignition system relay is installed under the front dashboard of the car, behind the hood release handle. It is located just below the central dashboard. The module is closed with a plastic plug, which must be opened slightly to test for functionality.

Starter, ignition, rear fog lamp relay

Next to the indicated relay, there is a similar one for the rear fog lights and the starter.

The main task of the relay when igniting is to reduce the applied load to the contacts. When the engine starts, the relay turns off some electrical circuits in the vehicle system. The system is used not only in injection, but also in carburetor engines.

In the event of a malfunction or malfunction in the ignition system, it is necessary to monitor the operation of the relay. For this purpose, open the box and carefully remove the desired element. It is attached using contacts to special grooves. The first thing to do is look at the oxidation of the contacts, if necessary, clean them with a soft cloth or treat them with a special liquid.

To check functionality, you need to use a regular multimeter. We connect to incoming connections and check the numbers. If there is no short circuit when current is applied, it means the element is not working. Replacement is carried out in a similar manner. It is necessary to use a standard element with the number of amperes indicated on the housing.

How to check the operation of the fuel pump?

First, you should check the fuse. To do this, check the instructions for its location. Next, you should check the voltage at the pump. Before doing this, be sure to check if everything is in order with the battery. The voltage at the fuel pump terminal must be checked using a multimeter or tester. The instruction manual always indicates the required voltage.

Using a tester, check the voltage supply to the fuse. Often this is where the electrical circuit breaks.

If the search does not yield results, then the voltage should be checked on the contacts themselves. All contacts must be in place and connected to ground. A broken contact or its oxidation leads to failure of the fuel pump system. If no broken contacts are detected, but the voltage drops by more than 1 volt, then the problem is in the wiring or oxidation of the contacts. There should be no short circuit in the wiring.

If, after checking the voltage, contacts and fuse, you do not find any problems, then the problem lies in the fuel pump itself. In this case, the fuel pump will most likely require replacement. In practice, it most often turns out that replacement is a last resort. First, you should try to restore and test the fuel pump again.

Before you check the fuel pump, you need to remember that, as mentioned above, pressure is the most important characteristic of the fuel pump, so it is worth measuring its level.

How to check the pressure in the fuel rail?

You will need a pressure gauge that measures pressure in the range from 7 to 10 atmospheres. If you choose a pressure gauge with a large margin, you risk getting less accurate measurement results. Specialized stores sell a kit for measuring pressure, but you can also design your own device.

If you want to assemble the device yourself, you will also need a hose with an internal diameter of 9 millimeters. You will also need plumbing tow, with which you can seal the connection between the pressure gauge and the tube. All parts are connected and tightened using a clamp. You will also need a car spool. Next you need to perform a series of actions:

Place the car on a level surface that is prevented from rolling, turn off the ignition and open the hood.
Check that the injection nozzles have access to the fuel rail.
Find the fuel pressure plug and remove it. Then you should unscrew the nipple using the spool.
Prepare an empty container (a regular bucket will do) and a clean rag. This is necessary to collect residual fuel, which under pressure can splash out in different directions. Therefore, take care of the safety of your skin (especially your face and eyes).
Connect the device to the fitting and begin checking the mechanism.

Checking the pressure in the fuel rail should occur in four operating modes of the power unit:

when the ignition is on;
at idle engine speed;
code the fuel pressure regulator tube is reset;
when the drain tube is compressed.

Fuel rail pressure measurement results

The results may vary slightly for different car models, but in general they should be as follows:

when the ignition is turned on, the pressure must be at least 3 atmospheres,
at idle engine speed - at least 2.5 atmospheres,
when the pressure regulator tube is reset - at least 3.3 atmospheres,
when squeezing the drain tube - at least 7 atmospheres.

Fuel rail pressure fluctuates slightly during preparation. When you press the pedal, it suddenly takes on a value of 3 atmospheres; when you release the pedal, it drops to 2.5 atmospheres. When fuel enters the fuel system, turn off the ignition and begin observing the pressure gauge. The pressure in this case should drop to 0.7 bar and remain unchanged.

If the pressure drops to zero, there may be a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. In this case, the regulator must be replaced immediately. The cause could also be the fuel pump check valve.

It is necessary to observe the behavior of the pressure gauge even at 3,000 engine speeds. A drop in pressure will indicate a faulty fuel pump. Sometimes the fuel pump cannot reach the required pressure for a long time. In this case, the problem lies in a clogged fuel filter, which needs to be replaced, or in a dirty fuel pump mesh (read more about where the fuel filter is located).

If the above methods do not reveal a malfunction of the fuel pump, you will have to diagnose other units (DPZD, IAC, mass air flow sensor, compression in the engine and some other indicators and parts).