January 28, 2016 Lada.Online 252 458 6
Often, owners of a VAZ 2121 or 2131 SUV encounter problems with starting the engine. For example, when you turn the ignition key, the starter does not turn. Let's look at possible problems with the Lada 4×4 starter and ways to solve them.
Where are the relays located in the field?
In this article I will tell you where the relays are located in the field. Electronic devices and units of the VAZ 2121 car are powered by a voltage of 12 volts. Each element is designed for a precise load, so the current can be tens of milliamps or hundreds of amperes. If power is supplied from control devices to actuators with operating parameters, the car will be entangled in thick cable bundles.
For example, consider connecting fan motor .
From the control unit (4) a low-current signal is supplied to control switches 2, 6, 8. For this, thin wires located in the common control harness are used. Relay coils consume little, and can be energized as long as desired. The operating current is switched to the consumer using power contacts.
From the battery terminal (c) through the fuse (3), voltage is supplied via the power wire
to power the fan motors .
Where are the relays located in Niva
The relay blocks in the VAZ 21213 car are located in the steering wheel area. The first fuse box is located on the left under the instrument panel.
By dismantling it, you gain access to the engine control switching unit. The relays are located there:
- Ignition Fan electric motors (2 pcs) Fuel pump activation Main switch
Below in the video you can see where the fuel pump relay is located
To replace, you will have to unscrew and lower the mounting rail on the wiring harness.
To the right of the steering column is another assembly:
- Head lighting (two switches, low and high beam) Fog lights Heating element of the trunk door glass
Above is the VAZ 21214 turn signal and hazard warning switch.
This is the relay that makes the sound when the turns are turned on! Another powerful switch (starting the starter) is located in the engine compartment. It is rated for hundreds of amps.
Electrical diagram of VAZ-21213
1. Front lights.2. Side direction indicators.3. Windshield washer motor.4. Headlight washer motor*.5. Switch.6. Rechargeable battery.7. Starter VAZ-21213.8. Generator.9. Headlights.10. Geared motors for headlight cleaners*.11. Sound signal.12. Spark plugs.13. Carburetor limit switch.14. Carburetor solenoid valve.15. Ignition coil.16. Windshield wiper motor gearbox.17. Carburetor solenoid valve control unit.18. Ignition distributor sensor.19. Coolant temperature indicator sensor.20. Insufficient oil pressure indicator sensor.21. Portable lamp socket**.22. Insufficient brake fluid level indicator sensor.23. Windshield wiper relay-breaker.24. Relay for turning on rear fog light lamps***.25. Relay for turning on the rear window heating element.26. Relay for turning on the headlight cleaners and washer*.27. Relay for turning on low beam headlights.28. Headlight high beam relay.30. Starter activation relay.31. Relay-breaker for hazard warning lights and direction indicators.32. Heater electric motor.33. Additional resistor for heater electric motor.34. Illumination lamps for heater control levers.35. External lighting lamp switch.36. Main fuse block.37. Additional fuse block.38. Reversing light switch.39. Brake light switch.40. Regulator for instrument lighting lamps.41. Ignition switch.42. Three-lever switch.43. Hazard switch.44. Switch for headlight cleaners and washers.45. Heater motor switch.46. Rear window heating element switch.47. Rear fog light switch.48. Lamp switches located in the door pillars.49. Interior lighting lamps.50. Cigarette lighter VAZ-21213.51. Switch for the carburetor choke indicator lamp.52. Indicator lamp for closing the carburetor air damper.53. Switch for the differential lock indicator lamp.54. Parking brake indicator lamp switch.55. Level indicator and fuel reserve sensor.56. Instrument cluster.57. Rear window washer motor.58. Tail lights.59. Block for connecting additional brake lights.60. Blocks for connecting side marker indicators.61. Pads for connecting to the rear window heating element.62. License plate lights.63. Rear window wiper motor.
The order of conventional numbering in the blocks: A - headlight and rear window windshield wipers, windshield wiper relay breaker; B — ignition distributor sensor; B — relay-interrupter for alarm and direction indicators; G - switch; D — three-lever switch; E - hazard warning switch; F - relay for turning on the rear fog light lamps; Z — rear lights; And - instrument clusters of VAZ-21213.
In the instrument panel wiring harness, the second ends of the white wires are brought together to one point, which is connected to the instrument lighting control. The second ends of the black wires are also brought together to a point connected to ground. The second ends of the yellow wires with a blue stripe are brought together to a point connected to terminal “A” of the main fuse block. And the second ends of the orange wires are also brought together to a point connected to terminal “B” of the main fuse block.
Replacing fuses, removing the fuse box
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
Pull the latch located on top of the main fuse box cover to remove the cover.
Similarly, remove the cover of the additional fuse box.
To remove the fuse blocks, use the “8” head to unscrew the two nuts
Remove the main and additional blocks from the studs.
Before replacing fuse blocks, mark the wires and disconnect them
Install new fuse blocks in reverse order
Removing the relay block
To the right of the steering column, under the instrument panel, there is a block of three identical relays of type 113.3747-10 that control the activation of: low beam headlights, high beam headlights and heated tailgate glass.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
To remove the relay, disconnect the block.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screw...
The starter and ignition relays are secured under the additional fuse block (on a car with an injection engine, they are attached to the injection system relay bracket).
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the self-tapping screw securing both relays.
After removing the relay, disconnect the pads
Install the relay in reverse order
Since all relays are of the same type, if one of them fails, you can temporarily connect its block to another relay.
For example, if the starter relay fails, its block can be connected to the heated tailgate glass relay.
Possible malfunctions if the starter does not turn
| Possible malfunction | Diagnostics | Solution |
| Battery is discharged | The starter clicks but does not turn. The voltage at the battery terminals with consumers turned on is less than 12 V | Charge or replace the battery |
| Oxidation of battery terminals or poor connection | The starter clicks but does not turn. When the starter is turned on, the voltage at its terminals drops much more than at the battery terminals | Clean the contacts, lubricate with Vaseline and tighten well |
| There are problems in the wiring of the starter traction (retractor) relay, ignition contacts 30 and 50 do not close. | When turning the key there is no click under the hood (the relay does not work). Check the presence of voltage at the control contact of the solenoid relay | Clean the contacts, lubricate with Vaseline and tighten well. Replace the ignition switch |
| The starter solenoid relay is faulty. | When you turn the key, there is no click under the hood (the relay does not work), but there is +12 V at the control contact of the solenoid relay. The starter spins when closed with a screwdriver. The starter does not turn only when it is hot (when the engine is warm) | Replace starter relay |
| Solenoid relay contacts are oxidized, poor ground contact | When you turn the key there is a click under the hood, but the starter does not turn. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the “battery - starter” circuit, as well as the ground wire. If the circuits are OK, remove the starter and check the operation of its relay | Clean the contacts, lubricate with Vaseline and tighten well. Replace the solenoid relay |
| Open or short circuit in the holding coil of the solenoid relay | When the starter is turned on, a cracking noise is heard from under the hood. The battery voltage is within normal limits. The relay is checked with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating | Replace starter relay |
| Burnt starter commutator, stuck brushes or severe wear | The starter does not turn or turns slowly. With the starter removed, check the pressing force of the brushes to the commutator, their residual height, and wear of the commutator | Repair the starter. If the commutator is very worn, replace the starter. |
| Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding | The starter does not turn or turns slowly. The serviceability of the winding is checked with an ohmmeter or by darkening of the insulation | Replace starter |
| Freewheel slipping | The starter spins, but the flywheel is stationary | Replace clutch or starter |
| The ring gear rotates on the flywheel | The starter spins, but the flywheel and crankshaft are stationary. There is a squeal, a howl from the clutch housing | Replace flywheel |
| The engine or attachments are jammed | Check the rotation of the crankshaft, alternator pulleys, coolant pump and power steering pump | Repair the engine or its attachments |
| The starter drive gear or flywheel ring teeth are damaged | Visual inspection after removing the starter | Repair or replace starter, replace flywheel |
Have you encountered the problem of starting the engine when the starter does not turn? What was the cause of your problem? Let us remind you that other instructions for repair and operation of Lada 4×4 can be found in this category or by content.
Keywords: 4x4 starter | 4x4 engine | 4x4 ignition system | 4x4 power system | ECM 4x4
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