Which relay goes to the fuel pump VAZ 2114

Cars admin26.02.2020

Hello to all subscribers! One of the common situations that happens, usually unexpectedly, is that the usual buzzing of the electric fuel pump in the rear of the car is absent when the ignition is turned on. As a result, the car engine refuses to start. I present an algorithm of actions if such a disaster suddenly happens. To begin with: photo 1 shows a fragment of the electrical circuit of the fuel pump.

Attention, working with electrical equipment is dangerous. If you are unsure, seek the help of a qualified professional.

First of all, the driver should first remove the side console on the passenger side (there are 3 relays with fuses there). Our electric fuel pump relay is the lower one. (Some cars from 2007 have 2 relays, but the fuel pump relay is the top one - see the repair manual). Directly above the bottom relay is our fuse. The first step is to make sure that this fuse is working properly (photo stage 1).

If the fuse is working and its contacts and its connector are not oxidized, then you need to make sure that the relay is working properly. You can immediately install a known-good relay and turn on the ignition. If the situation is corrected, then install the side console and have a good trip. If nothing has changed, then it is necessary to determine where the problem arose. To do this, you need to have a voltmeter or multimeter or a probe. But we will not determine the voltage value with a probe, and in this situation you need to know the voltage value - I’ll tell you why later. The second step (photo step 2) is to determine whether there is control voltage at the fuel pump relay. We connect the multimeter, turn on the ignition and determine the voltage value. If there is no voltage, then there is an open circuit coming from the main relay or from the ECU. If there is tension, then move on.

Stage 3 (photo stage 3) is to determine whether the power goes further directly to the fuel pump itself. If the power does not come out, the culprit is most likely the relay due to possibly burnt contacts. If the voltage goes away, but its value is 10 volts, then most likely the relay contacts are also burnt. At this voltage, the pump motor will not start. We change the relay and check. If the power goes further and its value is 12 Volts, then the culprit is the wires going to the electric motor of the pump or the pump itself.

Next you will have to remove the rear seat to get to the electric fuel pump. We remove the hatch and see the fuel pump chip. There are 3 wires on the chip: 1-minus, 2-plus of the fuel level sensor, 3-plus of the fuel pump itself. Unfortunately, I won’t tell you the sequence and location on the chip yet. In any case, when the ignition is on, there should be 2 pluses and one minus. In photo 4 (photo stage 4) we connect one by one to the contacts of the fuel pump chip and look at the presence and magnitude of voltage. If there is voltage, then the culprit is the electric fuel pump itself, and without removing it, most likely the cause cannot be eliminated.

Be careful with electricians and remember that the fuel pump control circuit can also break a faulty security alarm relay. Smooth roads everyone.

Tips for motorists

The electric fuel pump on a VAZ-2114 passenger car is located in the fuel tank, and after the ignition is turned on, voltage is supplied to its terminals through a 15 amp fuse F3 and relay R2, located under the panel on the passenger side in the car interior.

The first thing the driver of the “fourteenth” does after the fuel pump fails is to unscrew the two screws that secure the cover on the right side of the console under the panel, covering three relays and three fuses, and check the integrity of fuse F3, which is located next to two relays located one behind the other and the state of the contacts where the fuse is inserted. If it is intact, you need to check the fuel pump relay (you can replace it), which is located next to the fuse (it is the middle one among the relays available there).

If everything is in order with the fuse and relay, then the driver’s next action will be to get to the fuel pump terminals. To do this, you will have to lift the rear seat cushion and remove the cover at the bottom of the car body by unscrewing the screws that secure it. In the opened hatch you will see three terminals, one of them is negative, and two are positive (gray and black wires), which supply voltage to the fuel pump and fuel level indicator. You have to check whether voltage is supplied to the positive terminal of the fuel pump motor. This can be done using a control lamp. When you turn on the ignition, it should light up for 3-5 seconds (this is the time it takes to pump gasoline from the tank into the fuel rail before turning on the starter).

If the light comes on and the fuel pump does not work, this means that voltage is supplied and you need to check its value using a tester, since if the voltage is below 10 volts, the electric motor of the fuel pump will not start. The voltage drop occurs due to oxidation of the contacts, so you will have to check the condition of the contacts of both the negative and positive wires. You can also check the serviceability of the fuel pump by applying voltage to its terminals directly from the battery using two long wires. If the above actions do not help, then the fuel pump will have to be removed from the fuel tank and either replaced with a new one, or disassembled and looked for a fault inside it (for example, the brushes are stuck or worn out).

In addition to the above reasons, a working fuel pump may stop working as a result of a malfunction associated with the installed security alarm, which blocks the operation of the fuel pump when the engine starts.

Diagnostics

A malfunction of the VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump can be caused by:

malfunctions in the device’s power supply circuit;
failure of starting and protection elements (relay and fuse);
wear of electric motor parts.

Checking the electrical circuit

At the beginning of the diagnosis, you should check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. To do this you will need:

car tester (multimeter);
crosshead screwdriver;
two pieces of wire about 2 m long.

Checking the electrical circuit is carried out in the following order:

Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. When the key is in the first position, a click should be heard, characteristic of turning on the relay, followed by a slight whirring of the pump electric motor. If there is no click, the relay is faulty or is not receiving power. If there is a click, but no buzzing, the wiring coming from the relay or the pump motor itself is faulty.
Under the glove compartment, find an additional mounting block consisting of three relays and three fuses. The pump relay is located in the middle, and the fuse is located to the left of it. Remove the fuse from its socket, test it with a multimeter, and if the result is negative, replace it. When replacing the fuse, please note that it is rated for a maximum of 15 A.
Set your multimeter to voltmeter mode. Connect one probe of the device to the relay terminal to which the pink wire fits, and the second to the car body. Turn on the ignition. The device should show the on-board network voltage in the range of 11.7–12.4 V. If there is no voltage, the problem may be a broken wiring or a malfunction of the ignition contact group. In this case, it is better to contact an auto electrician. If power is supplied, check that the relay is working. With the ignition on, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to close the contacts to which the pink and gray wires go. This closes the circuit bypassing the relay. If the fuel pump works, replace the relay.
Be sure to check the connection of the pump's negative wire to ground. Often it is the lack of “ground” that causes interruptions in the operation of the fuel pump. Remove the plastic trim from the center console near the parking brake handle. Under it there is a “negative” wire of the pump, screwed to the body with a self-tapping screw. Unscrew it, clean the contacts, screw it back and repeat the test.
Then check the fuel module. Remove the rear seat, peel back the carpet and sound insulation. Unscrew the two screws securing the gas tank flap and disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel module cover. Using two wires, supply power to the pump directly from the battery. If the pump works, the wiring is faulty; if it doesn’t work, the pump itself is faulty.

Pressure check

If the pump is working properly, but the engine begins to operate intermittently, you should check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:

pressure gauge (can be a tire gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 kPa);
petrol-resistant hose with a diameter of 10–12 mm and a length of 50–80 cm;
two clamps for a hose of the appropriate diameter;
Phillips screwdriver;
nipple cap;
dry rag.

The verification procedure is as follows:

In the engine compartment on the engine fuel rail, locate the pressure measuring fitting (on the right side).
Remove the plastic cap (plug) from the fitting.
Using the nipple cap, unscrew the spool valve from the fitting. When unscrewing the spool valve, fuel may spray out of the fitting. To remove it, use a dry cloth.
Place one end of a gas-resistant hose onto the fitting and secure the connection with a clamp. Connect the other end of the hose to the pressure gauge fitting and also tighten the clamp.
Ask an assistant to turn on the ignition. Wait a few seconds and watch the meter readings. With a working pump, the pressure gauge should show a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm3 and 3.7–3.9 kPa for engines of 1.6 cm3. If the pressure is noticeably higher, the pump is faulty.

Fuel pump fuse and its functions

The fuel pump safety device, not only on the VAZ-2114, but also on other passenger cars, is just a small element in the vehicle’s fuel system. It has a relatively small size, but carries an important functional load.

The main function of this element to protect the functions of the fuel pump is to open the conductive circuit of the automobile fuel system. This need arises in case of overload of electrical circuits. As soon as such an overload occurs, the fuse element melts as a result of the high temperature, and the electrical circuit becomes open.

The safety element is small in size, and its design is quite simple:

the outer casing is made of plexiglass;
inside the device there is a conductive element made of plates and fusible material;
the body is marked in the form of the Latin letter “F” (this designation indicates that the safety device is intended for an electrical circuit with low power).

Thanks to the metal plates and the fusible material between them, the fuel pump fuse perfectly conducts electric current, but at a power that corresponds to the markings on the body of this part. If the power indicators in the electrical circuit are higher than the required value, the low-melting material immediately begins to melt, and the current-carrying circuit opens.

Thus, the fuel pump is saved from possible overloads.

Where is the fuel pump fuse on the VAZ-2114

In modern passenger cars, the manufacturer installs several special safety blocks in the current-carrying circuit at once in case of unforeseen situations that could damage the vehicle. This is done to reduce the risk of fire. Such fuses localize the entire electrical circuit to key areas where short circuits are most likely. Any vehicle has instructions that contain detailed diagrams of the location of all parts.

The VAZ-2114 also has a fuel pump safety device located under the hood. More precise location of this part:

open the hood;
look towards the windshield;
there is a plastic box on the ECU;
This box contains the fuse we need.

On the VAZ-2114 the fuse is marked as follows - Fuel Pump 15A.

Rear fog lamp relay

In order for the user to quickly and easily diagnose the operation of mechanisms and devices, the designers placed the rear fog light relays separately from the main units.

The element is located under the dashboard, where the hood opening hook is installed. The starter control module is also mounted here.

Checking the fuel pump fuse on a VAZ-2114

Experts recommend regularly checking the fuel pump safety device on the VAZ-2114. The easiest way to get to this part is from under the hood, that is, from the outside of the vehicle. To do this, you must follow the following step-by-step instructions:

Open the hood lid.
Find the plastic box on the engine control unit.
Open the small unit, which opens and closes with latches.
Find the appropriately marked safety device (located at the top).
Remove the safety element:
for this you will need forceps, tweezers or a clamp;
grab the safety device with a tool;
pull the fuse towards you;
remove from the nest.
Perform a visual inspection of this device:
cracks and chips on the body;
burnt fusible materials inside;
carbon deposits on the internal plates;
contacts are damaged.

If the contacts of the safety device are intact, then it can still function. But in such cases it is not worth the risk; it is best to replace the damaged part with a new one.

If there are obvious signs of combustion on the fuel pump safety device, replacing it will not be enough. You will also need to check other details:

the entire section of the current-carrying circuit for breaks in it;
pump relay (may stick);
fuel pump contacts (terminals may oxidize);
the fuel pump itself.

According to the marking, the safety element accepts a current of 15 A; you can find a similar one for sale in specialized stores without much difficulty.

Experts warn that if the breakdown problem lies not in a blown fuse, but in another part or in the wiring itself, replacing it will not be enough. It is necessary to determine the reason why this element failed. If this is not done, the new fuel pump fuse will burn out in the same way as the previous one.

Mechanical fuel pump for carburetor engine

A mechanical fuel pump was installed on the VAZ 2109 and earlier models, and currently on the VAZ 2110, 2111. It pumps up a pressure of 20-30 kPa, pumping at least 60 liters per hour.

Gasoline pumps for carburetor and injection engines are fundamentally different

To check the functionality, disconnect the hose between the fuel pump and the carburetor - gasoline under slight pressure should spray out. Then direct the hose into any container and turn the engine with the starter - if it pumps half a liter in 30 seconds, then everything is in order. If not, then you need to restore the system.

To do this you need:

Bleed the fuel line with compressed air (between the pump and the gas tank)
Check the cleanliness of the valves and filter mesh in the fuel pump
Remove the adjusting shim from under the fuel pump

Fuel pump fuse VAZ 2115

The fuel pump relay is located under the dashboard. On the passenger side, a side panel is opened that covers the beard on which the radio, on-board vehicle, and heater controls are mounted. We see a strip with three relays and fuses.

The pump relay is the lowest. Its fuse is also at the very bottom. When you turn the key, the relay turns on for 5 seconds in order to pump up pressure in the system and turns off. After the engine starts, control of the pump passes to the computer.

The mass of the pump (and fuel level sensor) is attached to the stud securing the handbrake to the body under the carpet. To get to it you need to remove the vestibule between the passenger and driver seats. There are 3 wires going to the fuel pump. first +, second minus, third fuel level sensor.

Where is

If we describe them from top to bottom, we get the following:

Pinout BN VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099

The fuel pump activation relay (2) is shown by an arrow.

1 — nozzles; 2 — spark plugs; 3 — ignition module; 4 — diagnostic block; 5 - controller; 6 — block connected to the instrument panel harness; 7 - main relay; 8 - main relay fuse; 9 — electric fan relay; 10 — controller power supply fuse; 11- electric fuel pump relay; 12 — fuel pump power circuit fuse; 13 — mass air flow sensor; 14 — throttle position sensor; 15 — coolant temperature sensor; 16 — idle speed regulator; 17 — knock sensor; 18 — crankshaft position sensor; 19- oxygen sensor; 20- APS control unit; 21 — APS status indicator; 22 — speed sensor; 23 — electric fuel pump with fuel level sensor; 24 — solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 25 — block connected to the ignition system harness; 26 — instrument cluster; 27 — ignition relay; 28 — ignition switch; 29 — mounting block; 30 — electric fan of the cooling system;

A - to terminal “B+” of the generator; B - block connected to block K of the ignition system harness; C - block connected to block L of the ignition system harness; D - wire connected to the interior lamp switch; E - wire connected to the white and black wires disconnected from the interior lamp switch; F - to the “+” terminal of the battery; G1, G2 - grounding points; K - block connected to block B of the front harness; L — block connected to block C of the front harness.

On “nines” with a mechanical fuel pump, the most common malfunction is wear of the fuel pump diaphragm, as a result of which gasoline will leak through the drainage hole in the housing when it operates. The second reason for the failure of such a fuel pump is wear of the pusher, which transmits force from the camshaft cam to the fuel pump drive lever.

Operating principle and design features

The VAZ 2114 fuel pump is located inside the car’s gas tank, which is why access to it can be problematic if you don’t know which side to approach. To free up access to the fuel pump, you need to remove the rear seat from the fourteenth, under which you will find a rectangular hatch hiding access to the fuel module.

Just fold back the back seat and see for yourself

In addition to the pump itself, the VAZ 2114 fuel module includes:

A float sensor that monitors the fuel level in the gas tank;
Chamber for fuel intake;
Mesh filter for coarse cleaning.

The gasoline pump has a built-in electric motor, which pumps up the pressure of the pumped fuel. The motor itself is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The VAZ 2114 gasoline pump is located so that even with a minimum level of fuel in the tank, it is constantly washed with gasoline, as this is necessary for normal cooling of the unit, which gets very hot during operation.

The main working element of a gasoline pump is a membrane, which during operation performs reciprocating movements. During normal operation, when the device is fully operational, the following pressure levels must be maintained in the fuel rail:

For 1.5 l engine. – from 285 to 326 kPa;
For 1.6 liter engine. – from 375 to 390 kPa.

As evidenced by reviews from owners of fourteenth VAZs, in practice BOSCH pumps have proven themselves to be the best.

Unlike domestically produced units, they cost almost 20-30% more, but at the same time they have an order of magnitude better build quality and reliability. The estimated cost of the fuel module for a 1.5 liter engine of the fourteenth is 2.5 thousand rubles, for 1.6 liters. – 2.6 thousand

However, rational savings are possible here - in most cases it makes sense to purchase a fuel pump separately, rather than the entire module, since, as a rule, the pump itself “dies”, and the remaining parts of the module remain in working order. Its cost, if taken separately, is 1-1.5 tr.

Signs of a fuel pump failure

A faulty fuel pump is quite easy to identify, since it is characterized by characteristic signs of failure. For example: while driving, the car suddenly stalls - after turning it on again, the engine begins to make uncharacteristic sounds, while the starter does not stop turning. After the car starts up, the picture repeats itself - the fourteenth engine stalls again. It is also possible that the car starts every once in a while - problems usually arise after sitting at neutral speed.

Pressure level

In order to get most of the picture of what is happening, it is enough to measure the pressure in the fuel rail. For this, it is necessary to use a pressure gauge that has a small measurement range (preferably up to 7 atmospheres), since devices with a large range can produce significant inaccuracies.

Rail pressure measurement

Under the hood of the fourteenth there is a pressure fitting; unscrew its cap and connect the pressure gauge to it. Normal indicators should be as follows:

When the engine is idling – 2.5 kPa;
At the moment of ignition - 3 kPa;
With a pinched drain hose – 7 kPa;
When gaining speed - 2.5-3 kPa.

If the pressure gauge needle does not move when the ignition is turned on, then the gasoline pressure regulator is most likely broken. When there is no change as the speed increases, the fuel pump itself has failed, but if the needle moves very slowly, which indicates that the pump is pumping, but poorly, the fuel pump screen is clogged.

Checking wiring contacts

If the fuel pump does not work, do not rush to change it - perhaps the problem is in poor-quality wiring. There are 3 wires connected to the pump: to the gasoline level sensor, and positive and negative to power the motor.

No special tools are required to check the wiring - a regular 12-volt light bulb is enough. We connect the light bulb to the negative and positive wires of the pump, and turn on the car’s ignition - if the light blinks, then everything is fine with the wiring.

When you have determined that the external wiring of the fuel pump is normal, you need to move on to checking the motor. This is done with the same light bulb, the wires of which are connected to the external terminals of the motor. If the light comes on when you turn on the ignition, then you need to change the motor.

Symptoms of a problem

A malfunction of the fuel pump of VAZ 2114/2115 cars can be diagnosed by the following symptoms:

when the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running;
the engine does not start or starts with difficulty;
the power unit is unstable at idle, the speed “floats”;
“dips” appeared during acceleration;
the motor has lost power.

The same signs also appear when other elements of the fuel system malfunction.

Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the fuel pump, you should make sure that:

the fine fuel filter is not clogged (it is changed every 7 thousand kilometers);
the injectors and fuel pressure regulator are operating normally;
The sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, and oxygen quantity are working properly.

If the detected malfunction is accompanied by the lighting of the “CHECK” lamp on the dashboard, you should set the error code and decipher it.

Fuel pump ground and relay

In the fourteenth, the mass of the fuel pump is fixed under the dashboard, next to the handbrake lever, during use of which the mass can be touched and shifted from its normal position. To fix this, remove the plastic around the handbrake, clean the ground contacts and reattach it.

Next to the ground there is a VAZ 2114 fuel pump relay. The relay is necessary so that during ignition the required pressure level is immediately created in the system.

A few words about where the fuel pump relay is located: after removing the plastic around the handbrake, you will immediately find 3 different relays - one of them is from the fuel pump.

It is better to immediately replace a broken relay with a new one; it is not expensive.

Fuel pump weight

The contact system is normal, but the gasoline level sensor is acting up. Let's see what happens to the mass of the fuel pump. It may be poorly secured. In this case, the fuel pump will not be able to pump anything.

The mass of the fuel pump itself is attached to it in the area of the handbrake, under the dashboard. When you pull the handbrake, you can touch the ground contacts of the fuel pump, and the connection may be lost.

It is not difficult to tighten the mass of the fuel pump, it is difficult to reach it. Namely: get the grounding contact of the ground conducting the lost connection. We remove the plastic under the handbrake and the floor covering of the car, respectively; We clean the contact and firmly attach the mass to the fuel pump.

Checking the fuse

First, let's figure out where the VAZ 2114 fuel pump fuse is located: you can find it under the hood, on the windshield side. There is a drawer on the electronic control unit that needs to be opened. In the box we need a fuse that says Fuel Pump 15A above it. If the fuse for the VAZ 2114 fuel pump is blown, you need to install a new one.

The fuse blows due to incorrectly connected alarm contacts or the anti-theft system.

Changing the fuel pump yourself

If the fuel pump in the VAZ does not pump, and all of the above system components are normal, it is necessary to clean the filters, and, if necessary, completely replace the unit.

Before starting work, you must completely drain the fuel from the gas tank. To do everything with our own hands, we need a screwdriver and a set of keys. Replacing the VAZ 2114 fuel pump is carried out according to the following algorithm:

We de-energize the car by removing the “-” terminal from the battery;
We take out the rear row of passenger seats;
Unscrew the plastic cap that covers the pump;
Remove the power wires from the device and disconnect the fuel supply hoses;
We dismantle the main fastenings of the fuel pump; for this we need the 7th key;
Now you can remove the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114 and remove the device.

It must be removed carefully, since the float sensor for determining the fuel level is a very delicate structure that is easy to damage . Inspect the fuel pump - if necessary, clean or replace the strainer, however, it may be necessary to completely replace the unit.

We study the signs of a fuel pump failure if it does not pump fuel

The non-pump is one of the key components of the VAZ 2114 fuel module. The gasoline pump helps ensure that gasoline is supplied to the engine at the required level of pressure.

Fuel pump for VAZ 2114

Any guarantees from the manufacturer with the actual service life of the fuel pump have little in common, since its durability directly depends on the operating conditions - even the highest quality VAZ fuel pump can quickly fail due to bad gasoline.