Installation and arrangement of electric power steering for Lada Priora

Purpose of the unit

Due to the operation of the ESD, the load and force on the steering wheel are reduced when making a turn. The unit greatly facilitates driving, and at high speed it does not allow dangerous maneuvers.

The unit includes the following components:

1. Steering wheel;
2. Column;
3. Shaft;
4. Electric motor;
5. Steering mechanism;
6. Electronic control unit (ECU);
7. Torque sensor.

When turning, the electric power steering is activated. The torque is provided by an electric motor, which is present in the EUR design. The torque sensor measures the indicator and sends it to the ECU. Depending on the angle of rotation, the block calculates how much power needs to be given to the motor. The switch located under the steering wheel contains a device that determines the angle of rotation. The torque and rotation sensors transmit data to the ECU, which “determines” whether the electric motor is running at the desired speed.

On previous generations of VAZ cars, a hydraulic booster was installed; it gave almost the same force in all rotation ranges. As for the electric power steering, the degree of force depends on many factors - the speed of rotation of the steering wheel and its angle, the speed of the power plant, the speed of movement.

SPL-Club Kirov

And I didn’t seem to have any problems with it, lucky?

I've been driving a Priora for 2 years with an EUR, no problems. As for sensitivity, it gradually becomes less sensitive with increasing speed and after 60 it turns off completely. The power steering does not have this capability, so the power steering is more sensitive at high speed.

EUR can be found on viburnums - you can’t get away with it, it breaks down consistently in the first couple of months)

heh... don’t speak loudly, otherwise my EUR, which has been on the Kalinka since November 2005, will realize that it is “overworking”... pah-pah...

he is apparently a great original, your EUR, I wish him longevity :biggrin: and yes... pah-pah 8-

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The story with the loose electric booster on the editorial Lada Priora continues. About the reaction to the article in Togliatti and the trip to.

LADA > Priora

Of course, one cannot evaluate the work of such huge teams by the machines they rivet.

Let me remind you of the essence of the problem: our electric booster broke down, spontaneously turning the wheels into the oncoming lane. AVTOVAZ replaced the defective unit. It turned out that the amplifier supplier, Kaluga, installed its own instead of an expensive German control module. According to representatives of Avtoelektronika, it took almost two years to replace imports with a domestic unit, and Togliatti knew about this work. Problems arose only when connecting the new module to the common controller board - the soldering was not good enough, which resulted in a large wave of problems. From December 2010 to February 2011, 1,938 EURs had to be replaced under warranty. With a norm of no more than three defective products per thousand pieces, during that period there was a collapse - 21.3 per thousand!

However, at AVTOVAZ they didn’t see anything bad. From the press response.

However, the defect manifested itself differently for everyone: some managed to drive no more than 400 km, mine broke down after driving 22,692 km! Perhaps someone's ESD simply hasn't fired yet. Nothing terrible happened, and according to the developers: “Sudden transitions of EMURU 2172-345008-02 from the “compensation” mode to the “failure” mode at various speeds and driving modes do not lead to a decrease in the driving safety of the Lada-2170.

Malfunctions and their symptoms

Undoubtedly, the electric booster is a more reliable unit than a device running on hydraulics, but malfunctions also appear in the power steering. If they are detected, repairs must be carried out immediately, since the safety of the driver, his companions and other road users depends on the operation of the amplifier.

Complete failure of the EUR

As practice shows, this unit does not have many faults; breakdowns occur in the same parts. The first thing worth considering is the complete failure of the ESD. When you turn off the amplifier, you need to check the on-board computer screen; most likely, you will see a code there indicating a malfunction in the unit. But sometimes it is possible to determine when an amplifier is turned off only in practice.

We perform the following actions:

1. Turn off the engine and turn the steering wheel in different directions several times;
2. We repeat these steps, but with the engine running;
3. Has the steering effort changed? This means the node has completely shut down.

Even with the ESD not working, you can continue driving, but this is not recommended. The driver needs time to get used to driving with the help of an amplifier. It is better to immediately begin diagnostics and determine which component requires repair or replacement.

Sometimes the amplifier and speedometer stop working at the same time. The cause of this defect is a speed sensor that has failed. Taking a look at the electrical diagram, you will understand that these three elements are connected. The torque sensor supplies data to the control unit, it compares it with speed and determines the force. If the cause is the speed sensor, then the repair consists of checking the wiring that leads to this element. It is also worth checking the wires connecting the sensor to the speedometer and power steering. If there are no breaks in the switching, then the sensor should be changed.

Low voltage in the car network can also lead to the ESD turning off. Faults should be looked for in the wiring insulation. If it is damaged, short circuits will appear in the network. Also, violations in insulation lead to malfunction of the generator. To troubleshoot the problem, check the wiring and generator. The torque sensor contains many contacts, which, if heavily soiled, help turn off the power steering. In this case, repair means disassembling the unit and cleaning the contacts of the torque sensor.

see also

Unpredictable steering behavior

The driver is driving on a flat road, the position of the steering wheel does not change, and suddenly the car turns to the side. Such unpredictable behavior of the power steering requires urgent diagnosis, since at the most inopportune moment the electric power steering of the Lada Priora can send the car to the side of the road or into the oncoming lane. In such a situation, you should stop driving and turn off the amplifier. To do this, we need to remove the fuse, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the amplifier.

To remove this fuse, you need to do the following:

1. The mounting block cover is located at the driver’s left foot;
2. We turn the clamps and unclip the fasteners;
3. You will find the block where the required fuse is located near the expansion tank;
4. Feel free to take out fuse F5 (50 A) - it is responsible for providing the power supply circuit to the power steering unit.

The reason for this behavior is a malfunction in the electric amplifier device. This could be a torque sensor, control unit, clogged contacts or mechanical damage. It is recommended that diagnostics be carried out by professionals, since in a garage you will not be able to check the control unit; replacement can be done with your own hands.

Prevention measures

To maximize the service life of the Priora steering rack, follow simple operating rules:

• bumps, potholes and speed bumps must be driven over at low speed and carefully;
• periodically inspect the condition of the anthers and seals;
• The oil in the power steering should be warmed up before driving (short turns by steering wheel);
• It is not recommended to frequently hold the steering wheel in the extreme right or left position.

By following these simple rules, you can avoid expensive repairs or replacement of the unit.

Replacing the EUR

So, you need to replace the electric booster on the Priora or simply check the condition of its contacts. In any case, repair involves complete removal of the unit. Prepare the necessary tools:

• Chisel and hammer.
• Deep head for 8 and 13.
• Extension and ratchet, alternatively you can use a wrench.

It’s quite easy to remove the amplifier itself with your own hands, but in order to get to its mounts and the control unit, you will need to remove many parts of the dashboard: the steering wheel along with the airbag, the casing and the ignition switch. Once these components are removed, repairs to the amplifier can begin.

Step-by-step instruction

1. We take the “eighth” head, put on the ratchet and remove the contact group, as shown in the photo below;

Now you can study the contacts in detail and, if necessary, make repairs. If you know that the main components (control unit, motor) have failed, then you need to replace them. Installation of a new device occurs in the reverse order. The DIY repair is complete.

There are two types of power steering: electric power steering and hydraulic power steering. Priora was composed of both. The price is higher for EUR, but sometimes it doesn’t work. The electric power steering of the Priora car has an analogue of the AENK-K, but it is 2 times more expensive than the standard power steering of the Lada Priora. With Eur, the steering wheel of a Priora car becomes much lighter. With gur you feel the road. Compared to the Eur, the Priora has more spare parts, is attached to the pentosin liquid, it needs to be monitored, topped up - so that starvation does not occur! The price for replacement also differs depending on the system, the EUR is easier to replace and can be called with a diagnostic connector, so this is the electric motor. Electric power steering (EPS) for Priora comes in two types: geared and gearless - and the first is an outdated technology that was installed on the first Priora - read about it in the article below.

The presence of electric power steering on the Priora has become an indispensable requirement for every car enthusiast. This is justified: once upon a time, the owners of domestic “Zhiguli”, from the first years behind the wheel, learned to turn the steering wheel with both hands with maximum effort. On modern cars, you can turn the steering wheel even on the spot in a snowdrift with one hand, therefore, when choosing a Lada Priora in the cabin, electric power steering was the first mandatory item in the package for many. Later they began to install steering wheel and power steering in all configurations.

Electric power steering is not installed on the Priora in all trim levels - the simplest one has power steering. Knowing the power steering device and being able to “bring it to life” is the direct responsibility of the Priora driver, who loves his car.

We repair the electric power steering on a Priora with our own hands: just what the doctor ordered

» Power steering » We repair the electric power steering on a Priora with our own hands: just what the doctor ordered

In VAZ Priora cars, the electric power steering performs the function of making the vehicle easier to control. With the help of the ESD, the driver can easily turn the steering wheel with one hand. What malfunctions are typical for the amplifier and how to replace the EUR in a garage - we will talk about this below.

In what cases is the steering rack, power steering and power steering disassembled and repaired, what is the connection diagram for the amplifier, what functions does the torque sensor perform?

First, let's look at the main malfunctions of the system, why it does not work and how to fix them:

Methods for determining mechanical damage to electric power steering and steering mechanisms

Mechanical damage is checked only when the EUR as a whole is not functioning correctly, but there are no errors on the on-board computer display. To diagnose mechanical breakdowns, turn the steering wheel in different directions until it stops while the engine is running. Of course, the car must be in one place. If you have to exert significantly more force than usual when turning the steering wheel, this indicates a malfunction in the system and a breakdown of one of the components. The same problem may indicate a failure of other components of the steering system.

To more accurately identify problems, a thorough performance check should be carried out. You will need to drive your Lada Priora onto an overpass, pit or lift, and then carefully diagnose all components of the chassis. It is necessary to check the racks, steering rods and other components, since there is a possibility that the amplifier itself is working, and the signs of malfunction are associated with other problems. To service an electric amplifier at home, you will have to completely disassemble the system, clean its components and put it back together.

Pinout diagram and designations of EUR contacts

Self-removal and installation of the amplifier

You can do the procedure for dismantling and installing a new electric amplifier yourself, but for this you will need to prepare all the tools. To complete the job, you will need two screwdrivers - one with a flat head and the other with a Phillips head. You will also need a set of socket wrenches.

How to complete the DIY removal and installation task:

Why is it needed and its device

ESD is an electrical mechanism that reduces the control force with which the driver turns the steering wheel. It turns out that this cunning device takes on most of the effort, leaving the driver responsible for the safety of the maneuver. The design of the EUR is as follows:

• Electronic control unit and electric motor;

Controller and peripherals

• Steering wheel;
• Output/input shaft;
• Studs, nuts, bolts, etc.;
• Bracket;
• Steering rack;
• Connections;
• Steering wheel tilt adjustment lever.

It works like an ordinary electronic mechanism - for example, like a prosthesis: receiving data from sensors about the resistance of the road surface, vehicle speed, crankshaft speed, the force that the driver applies to turning the steering wheel, the “brain”, the electronic control unit, delivers the electric motor to sufficient power to so that the car can be controlled with one finger.

The steering column becomes almost weightless, and does not even give off the vibration familiar to many from prolonged holding in the extreme position.

Power steering

The force applied by the driver to the steering wheel is amplified due to the pressure of the hydraulic fluid in one of the parts of the rack. When the steering wheel is turned, the distributor moves, separating the two parts of the rack (left and right), the fluid pressure in the cavity increases, thereby increasing the driver’s effort applied to the steering wheel.

The pump supplying hydraulic fluid receives torque from the crankshaft using a belt drive. When a car hits an obstacle, the hydraulic fluid prevents the wheel from turning, as it is always under pressure created by the pump.

Standard electric amplifier - article number and price

On the market you can find geared (outdated) and gearless EPS (electromechanical power steering) for Priora. It is worth concentrating on the second option, there are reasons for this:

Fast request processing: the “intermediary” - the gearbox - disappears - the ECU copes faster with the driver’s commands; More durable. The gear transmission of the gearbox can break at an inconvenient moment, but in a gearless electric power steering system the moment is transmitted directly to the steering rack. The noise level is reduced. The article number of the gearless EUR for the VAZ 2170 Priora is 2172-3450008-02. The price ranges from 20,000 to 25,000 rubles. The cost of a geared EUR is two thousand lower, but is it worth it - to skimp, pay less money, and then deal with frequent breakdowns?

Repair

It is not always possible or even the desire to spend money on buying a new device. Regardless of the reasons, it is quite possible to try to solve the problem of a failed or poorly functioning idle speed sensor using a repair method.

• Try cleaning the old sensor.
• To do this, you should dismantle it and thoroughly clean all contacts using a cotton swab soaked in carburetor cleaner.
• Next, the rod, needle and spring are generously treated with cleaner.
• A toothbrush can easily clean areas smeared with carburetor cleaner.
• Rinse the device again and then return it to its place.
• Not infrequently, such events made it possible to achieve excellent results; idle speed began to work again as before.

But this is the simplest repair option, which is not always worth counting on. There is a more complex, but at the same time more effective option for self-repairing a failed idle air control:

Remove the sensor, clean its external elements, as indicated in the previous repair method; Remove the three pins securing the sensor housing; Remove the regulator housing as carefully as possible

Really slow and careful not to damage the contacts; After disassembly, you may notice the presence of broken solder. In this situation, the wire is soldered in place, and the soldering area is treated with a special anti-corrosion varnish; If there are gaps in the body of the gap adjuster, they are eliminated using sealant

This will prevent air from being sucked in through the valve.

If, when disassembling the device, problems are discovered on the winding or the needle is worn out, repair will not help. You will have to change the IAC completely.

The issue of malfunctioning idle air control is quite common in the case of the VAZ 2114. This element cannot be called the weak point of the car, but no one wants to face such a breakdown. As, indeed, with any other malfunction. But where can you get away from them?!

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Advantages and disadvantages over power steering

Power steering (power steering) was once the ultimate dream for many, but you had to tinker with it - which only cost the constant addition of working fluid to the reservoir, plus a thrifty attitude towards the mechanism.

Benefits that the owner of a Priora with EUR receives:

More reliable mechanism. It's simple - there is nothing that often breaks (pulleys, hoses) or runs out (liquid). In addition, diagnostic data on faults can be obtained from the ECU. Installation, according to the manufacturer, will take no more than 1.5 hours - with wires everything will be much easier than with connecting hoses. In addition, you don't have to climb into the engine compartment. Passive impact safety Adjustability. Initially, after installation, the force will increase with increasing vehicle speed. This can be changed by reprogramming the data in the ECU - for example, reducing the force from the mechanism with increasing speed. Energy saving. The electric motor inside does not work constantly - it starts only when the driver starts to turn the steering wheel.

Lada.Online | Topic author: Leandra

How to bleed the power steering system on LADA cars When the steering wheel rotates sharply, it jams (resistance increases), the power steering pump makes increased noise (hums or howls), and the fluid in the power steering reservoir foams? All these are signs of air getting into the power steering system. We'll tell you how to kick it out yourself. Air should also be removed from the power steering system after any work related to depressurization of the system (for example, replacing the power steering pump or pipelines). The oil level in the power steering reservoir: on a cold engine should be at least about. with a warm engine - no higher than o. Currently, the power steering system can be found on cars: Lada Priora, Largus, XRAY and Niva 4x4. In the first three cases, bleeding the power steering system is performed in the same way. On Lada 4×4 this process has distinctive features, but first things first. Bleeding the power steering system on Lada XRAY, Largus, Priora Start the engine and make several full turns of the steering wheel from one extreme position to the other. Then check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir. The difference between the level when the engine is running and the level after it is stopped should not be more than 5 mm. If the difference reaches 5 mm or more, then there is air in the power steering system. How to remove air from the power steering system: Raise the front of the car (or the entire body) so that the front wheels do not touch the ground. Fill the power steering reservoir with working fluid until about. Rotate the steering wheel from side to side until it stops 5-6 times (the engine is not running). Rotate the steering wheel from side to side until it stops (without delays in extreme positions) 5-6 times (the engine is running, the speed is not higher than idle). Place the steering wheel in the middle position and turn off the engine. Check the fluid level in the power steering reservoir. If necessary, top it up to normal. Repeat the operation from 3-6 until the liquid level stops decreasing. Bleeding the power steering system on a VAZ 2121, 2131 Procedure: Add oil to the power steering reservoir to the lower mark. We start the engine and at idle speed, check the oil level in the tank. If necessary, top up to the lower mark. Turn the steering wheel left and right until it stops several times and check the oil level in the tank. If necessary, top up to the lower mark. Remove the protective cap from the bleeder fitting.

The decoding is as follows:

• 1 long 1 short System OK;
• 1 long 2 short No engine speed signal;
• 1 long 3 short Torque sensor faulty;
• 1 long 4 short EMUR motor malfunction;
• 1 long 5 short Faulty steering shaft position sensor;
• 1 long 6 short Malfunction of the EMUR engine rotor position sensor;
• 1 long 7 short Malfunction of the car's electrical system (below 10V or more than 18V);
• 1 long 8 short Malfunction of the EMUR control unit;
• 1 long 9 short Vehicle speed sensor malfunction;

Removing and installing electric booster - tools

Even manually diagnosing something with an EUR will be difficult - one way or another, you will have to remove it. To do this, you should prepare and get:

• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Extension;
• Driver (ratchet);
• Heads for 8 and 13.

Let's sort it out

• Disassemble and remove the steering column. Remove the negative terminal from the battery;
• Using the eighth head, remove the contact group;
• Disconnect all wiring from the gray metal block. Each wire is under a lock, so handle them carefully, try not to damage the contacts;
• Disconnect the steering rack and cardan mounts by removing the bolt. Using a chisel and hammer, loosen the universal joint;
• Unscrew the four nuts that secure the amplifier to the body;
• Pull out the EUR.

To install the EUR, all steps are performed in reverse order. It is highly recommended that during dismantling you remember (better - take a photo!) the connections of all wires so that the installation goes smoothly the first time.

On Lada Priora cars, electric power steering is almost always offered in the basic configuration as an additional comfort option. At the same time, the Priora EUR often fails, then it can be repaired independently or with the help of specialists.

How to tighten the electric power steering rack?

The appearance of a knocking sound in the operation of the electric power steering is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.

How to do it right:

1. First you need to disconnect the battery; to do this, disconnect the terminals from it. Unscrew the battery mount; to do this, you need to unscrew two more nuts located at the edges. After this, the battery is removed and put aside.
2. Then you need to lift the plastic stand, there are four more screws under it, they can also be unscrewed.
3. Having done this, it is necessary to move this stand forward until the platform is disconnected from the air filter housing retainer pad. After this, the trim can be moved back, this will provide freer access to the rail itself.
4. At the next stage, you will need to crawl your hand under the rail. Directly below it, as shown in the photo, there is a rubberized cap; it will need to be removed, this will allow the key to access the adjusting nut.
5. To perform adjustment work, you will need a special wrench to tighten the rack; without it, the adjustment procedure will not be possible. Using this wrench, you need to crawl under the car rail to install the tool in the required hole.
6. When adjusting, be careful not to overtighten the rack. If its tightening is very strong, then when cornering the rack will bite, and this, in turn, may affect the safety of movement. The angle of adjustment is always different, it depends on how much the nut is loose, but usually when performing such work the nut is tightened by approximately 30 degrees. This should be enough to get everything right. After the adjustment is completed, it will be necessary to check that this task was performed correctly. That is, you will need to make sure that the steering wheel turns normally to any position all the way and there is no knocking. If the knock remains, then the adjustment continues.

Photo gallery “Adjusting the steering rack”

1. Slide the stand and detach it.

2. In this place under the rail there is an adjusting washer.

3. Adjustment is made with a special key.

4. Location of the adjusting nut.