The Dvizhok magazine continues to test spare parts and components for popular cars in Russia for durability and efficiency. This time, our test laboratory received water pumps for the Lada Priora .
The first engine cooling systems in cars were evaporative and were not equipped with pumps at all - they worked on the principle of a boiling kettle. The water in the block and cylinder head evaporated due to heating and thus took away excess heat from the running engine. With such a cooling system, the engine could consume up to 150 liters of water per 100 km, so the driver had to constantly monitor the water level in the cooling system and top it up.
The next stage of development was the emergence of closed systems with forced circulation of liquid. Structurally, the water pump is a relatively simple product consisting of five parts: a housing in which the bearing is pressed, an oil seal that protects the bearing from coolant, an impeller and a pulley.
Test samples
For testing, we chose the most common water pump model with the original number 21126-1307010, popularly known as the “Prior pump”, which since 2007 and is still installed on all 16-valve 1.6-liter VAZ engines. These engines come standard with a Gates belt with a semicircular tooth profile and an automatic tension roller. The declared belt resource exceeds 100 thousand km, so the water pump should last until the timing belt is scheduled to be replaced.
Where is the water pump on the Lada Granta?
Regardless of the modification of the technical device, the number of preinstalled valves, the water pump is installed in the engine compartment. From the end of the engine, below, closer to the crankshaft pulley.
If maintenance and replacement are necessary, the pump is dismantled along with the drive belt and crankshaft pulley.
Remove the pump through the opening in the wheel arch of the car, after jacking up the right side of the car. Some service station technicians practice dismantling through the top of the engine compartment, depending on which is more convenient.
Test method
Each pump was installed on a special endurance testing stand. It is a non-working “eight” VAZ engine with connecting rods and pistons removed, installed on a frame, with a standard cooling system assembled, into which a flow meter and a fluid heater are mounted. Thus, the resulting resistance of the cooling system at the test bench most accurately corresponds to the real one on the car.
Despite the apparent similarity of water pumps and impellers, the flow characteristics of the pumps will differ depending on the diameter of the impeller, the thickness, profile and height of the blades, as well as the cleanliness of their surface (roughness). The most important parameter of a water pump is the so-called “impeller overhang,” namely the distance from the blades to the counter part of the pump. The performance of the pump is in an inverse cubic relationship with this distance: the closer the blades, the lower the hydraulic losses and the higher the flow.
The performance of the water pump directly affects (provided the thermostat is working) on stabilizing the engine temperature, the amount of heat in the cabin and eliminating the so-called “thermal shock”, which occurs when the speed of a loaded engine is sharply reduced. At the same time, the flow rate of liquid pumped through the hot cylinder block drops sharply, as a result of which the temperature in it begins to rise sharply. By the way, in modern cars, to eliminate such phenomena, controlled electric pumps are installed, in which the operating algorithm is tied primarily to the temperature of the liquid in the cylinder block, and not to engine speed.
Signs of pump failure
You can talk about a pump malfunction if you have the following malfunctions:
- The coolant level in the reservoir drops to a minimum . This reason is the most common, since this is how you can understand that the coolant is constantly leaving due to leaks. They can be in the tank itself, the pipes, or at their connections, as well as directly in the radiator. Only by checking the entire system can you be sure that this is not the reason.
results
After installation, we measured the flow characteristics of the pumps at various speeds. The test results are shown in the table.
The predictably low flow rates of the Kedr pump are easily explained by the rough cast-iron six-bladed impeller without an impeller, which was used back in the days of the production of VAZ G8s. The impeller is a low impeller that is located on the back side of the main impeller. Its purpose is to hydraulically unload the shaft-housing seal. Equally important is the presence of holes in the base of the impeller - they also help reduce the load on the mechanical shaft seal with the housing.
The leaders in terms of consumption are the TZA pumps (due to the use of an impeller of a new proprietary design) and LUZAR, whose impeller, while externally identical, is more developed (the height of the impeller blades is 3 mm higher than some of the samples presented in the test). Both of these pumps also have the smallest gap between the block body and the ends of the impeller, which greatly reduces hydraulic losses and increases flow characteristics.
Dolz
The company has existed since 1934. It produces water pumps for both cars and trucks. 95% of pumps on European cars are of this brand. Pros:
- Durability;
- Reliability;
- Prevalence;
- Protection against counterfeiting.
Minuses:
- High price.
The cost is about 1000 rubles.
Life tests
In addition to the flow characteristics, the most important parameter of the pump is its service life. The pump life test program includes 500 hours of operation or until liquid leaks through the inspection hole. The pump is driven by an electric motor with a constant pulley speed of 3000 rpm.
It seems that at an average vehicle speed of 40 km/h, the service life on the stand will be only about 20 thousand km, however, it is worth considering that tap water is poured into the cooling system to worsen the operating conditions of the pump seal, since when working on hot water Corrosion occurs in the cast iron engine block and steel pipelines, so mechanical rust particles should quickly damage the pump seal, resulting in a leak. The fluid heater maintains a constant temperature of 85 ± 2 °C. Testing with high-quality antifreeze, which will suppress the resulting corrosion of parts, will significantly increase the duration of the tests. After each pump tested, all water was drained from the system and when installing the next one, new water was poured in.
The Finwhale pump was the first to fail: after 88 hours of operation, water began to drip through the control hole, which indicated that the ceramic seal had begun to leak.
Next, the Hofer pump leaked - after 202 hours of operation, then the DOLZ pump "shed tears" with lubricant - after 207 hours of operation. The TZA lasted 407 hours before leaking; Kedr lasted 476 hours.
After 207 hours of operation, the DOLZ pump “bled a tear” with lubricant
The TZA pump lasted 407 hours before leaking
The Hofer pump leaked after 202 hours of operation (left).
The Kedr brand pump lasted 476 hours on the resource stand before leaking (right). The remaining pumps showed no visible signs of leakage after 500 hours of operation, but after 300 hours of operation, bearing noise became clearly audible on the Fenox pump, and a periodic rumbling sound appeared in the bearing on the LECAR pump towards the end of the life test.
At the end of the tests, each pump body was cut into two halves for inspection for signs of leakage. Then it turned out that the noise of the LECAR pump bearing was caused by the ceramic oil seal starting to leak, and there was not yet enough liquid to flow out.
The bearing noise of the LECAR pump was caused by the ceramic oil seal starting to leak. This was discovered after the body of the product was sawn into two halves.
Choosing a pump: reviews, recommendations
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#81 Ilya_007
- Users
- 377 messages
- Registration 14-May 11
- From: Sumy
- Auto: 2102
About Phenox, everyone already knows that their spare parts are okay, maybe not all, but the majority.
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#82 PJR
- From: Zaporozhye
- Car: 2101, 2112, Cordoba
I thought I would hope that cheap Phenox is bought much more often, which is why more often bad reviews are bad if it’s defective, now I will have a different attitude towards spare parts from this company. I’m planning to take either Luzar or TZA, I’ll definitely decide tomorrow.
It turned out that there was a leak at the junction of the cover with the body, apparently the old gasket was poorly cleaned, everything was done again more thoroughly, a test drive showed that everything was fine so far, but near the faucet there was a leak at the junction with the stove due to the fact that the contact plane in the stove was uneven — it got wrinkled at some point during connection, so the Phenox is still standing, I’ll return the purchased TZA to the store.
And yet, I took the Phenox to the store - sometimes there was antifreeze near the drainage hole, and the Phenox on the website claims 100% tightness of the pumps - that means a defect!
Message modified: PJR, 09 February 2013 - 23:43.
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#83 Menor
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#84 Fast
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#85 Golandetc
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#86 ASDb
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#87 Ilya_007
- From: Sumy
- Auto: 2102
Message modified: Ilya_007, February 10, 2013 - 00:04.
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#88 Alf_03
Message modified: Alf_03, March 27, 2013 - 13:08.
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#89 Andryuha
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#90 Sergey72
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#91 Bucks
- From: Chernigov
- Auto: 01, 2106-2pcs, 21213, BMW, Audi
CAR PARTS VAZ (factory and Europe) and FOREIGN CAR, IN STOCK AND TO ORDER, delivery from the UAE, Europe, USA. A huge assortment of oils: MOTUL, KROON OIL, COMMA, VATOIL, ZIC, LIQUI MOLY, CASTROL and many others DM or CALL 07311nol2000
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#92 .SEREGA..
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#93 Bucks
- From: Chernigov
- Auto: 01, 2106-2pcs, 21213, BMW, Audi
CAR PARTS VAZ (factory and Europe) and FOREIGN CAR, IN STOCK AND TO ORDER, delivery from the UAE, Europe, USA. A huge assortment of oils: MOTUL, KROON OIL, COMMA, VATOIL, ZIC, LIQUI MOLY, CASTROL and many others DM or CALL 07311nol2000
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Which brands of water pumps are available on the market?
Manufacturers of components for this car, if not hundreds, then definitely 3-4 dozen. A so-called backbone has been formed among experienced specialists, consisting of pumps from 5 leading manufacturers :
General Motors (GM)
P.H.C.
HQ
Luzar
Koreastar
Of course, there are pumps from many other manufacturers that can be freely used in Daewoo Lanos.
The undisputed leader is the pump produced by General Motors . The GM pump has a high quality housing fit. That is, during installation, the master will not have to finish cutting and sanding the edges. Moreover, all case materials are made of reliable and durable steel. A General Motors pump for installation on a Daewoo Lanos costs around $40 .
The GM branded pump does not come with a gasket or bolts. All additional components must be ordered separately.
Pumps of the PHC and HQ brands have South Korean roots. In appearance, the pumps of these companies are practically indistinguishable. The only thing is that on the body of the HQ pump there is a laser engraving with the company name.
Water pumps of these brands are equipped with a plastic impeller. But along with the pump itself, an O-ring is also provided, as well as mounting bolts (bolts are not always included). Pumps from these companies cost around $ 17-20.
The Luzar pump is a budget pump solution. A coolant pump of this brand costs about $12 . All pump elements are steel. The kit contains a gasket and may also include bolts. Many craftsmen note that when installing a Luzar pump, it becomes necessary to grind the seat, since the pump does not fit into place without modification. But despite this, pumps of this brand have a solid working life.
The best pump for a prioromotor
Guys. I'm going to give up the pump, I want to order it the other day - but I still haven't decided - I'm choosing from Pilenga WP-P 2170, Hepu P625, DOLZ L125 Can you recommend anything else?
The pump is a very important element for a prior engine. Does the original piston have no grooves? Do you know about the bending of the valves? I don’t know about the pumps you listed. Read this thread for information.
Piston original. I know about the bend. At the Prioro Forum and Kalino Forum, these pumps are now ruling. Native TZA - lottery, depending on your luck, they can be covered in 3 2-3 thousand, or they can leave in 80. My dear one has passed 43 thousand - in the summer it will be 50 thousand - a small backlash. The rollers and belt were changed this winter, because... When starting the car in cold weather, the oil pump gasket cracked and the belt was splashed with oil.
Well, wait a minute. Can the local prior guides give you some travel advice?
If you live in a priorovode, what’s the point of asking here? The people there are much more competent in these matters.
Hepu has good pumps, but there weren’t any for the priorozub. Maybe things have changed now. Someone stupidly ignored the difference in the profile of the teeth and installed them.
IMHO TZA with authentication. And keep an eye on it from time to time. I also have 50 thousand now, everything is original in the timing belt.
Well, I took the TZA Premium pump in the fall, I wanted to change it when it gets warmer, it passed the test, but it lay there at room temperature and now it rotates with difficulty, with a clearly noticeable biting. I immediately lost the desire to bet - I’m looking for a worthy alternative.
Did it rotate smoothly in the store or didn’t you check it?
I checked it - it rotated normally, it was checked via SMS and then on the website. The lubricant inside is rubbish - it stopped rotating because it was lying there.
I would take TZA or Luzar - cheap and high quality, still change it after 60 thousand km. I installed TZA on 2115 - there were no problems. Here is the link, read https://www.zr.ru/archive/zr/2009/06/ ohladit-pyl
By the way, yesterday, I sprayed grease on the poorly rotating new TZA Premium, which had been sitting and dried out for six months. I unscrewed the locking screw - there was some kind of white grease, of which there was very little. I pressed in about 1.5 cubes of Castrol high-temperature grease with a syringe and worked it with my hands. And the pump began to rotate even better than when I bought it. So, when purchasing a pump in any case, add lubricants - they save it (I’m talking about TZA). Now I want to try to syringe the one on the car. This is more difficult to do, but it may be possible.
But I will take an alternative. I have no luck in the lottery
If you live in a priorovode, what’s the point of asking here? The people there are much more competent in these matters.
Hepu has good pumps, but there weren’t any for the priorozub. Maybe things have changed now. Someone stupidly ignored the difference in the profile of the teeth and installed them.
IMHO TZA with authentication.
And keep an eye on it from time to time. I also have 50 thousand now, everything is original in the timing belt.
