How to change the tension roller of a generator on a viburnum

When to change?

VAZ Lada Kalina vehicles use a belt drive for auxiliary units. On cars with air conditioning, the service life of such a belt is no more than 30 thousand km. On simple versions of cars, the strap can last longer, but most owners try to change it after the same 30 thousand kilometers traveled. For various reasons, the belt may fail earlier, so it must be checked periodically during vehicle operation. There should be no cracks on the working track, and delamination on the outer part of the belt is unacceptable. If such defects are present, we immediately change the strap. Another signal to replace this element is a whistle or other noise when the unit is operating.

The process of replacing the belt on a Kalina with air conditioning (sixteen valves) is presented in a video from the user Alexander.

Advantages of a tensioner

Why weren't designers happy with the previous adjustment methods? Why did they add an extra video? It's not just about convenience. The tensioner significantly increases the service life of the generator. Without a roller, the entire load falls on its bearings. If the belt is tensioned normally, then there is nothing to worry about. In this case, the generator will last many thousands of kilometers. However, very often car owners overtighten the belt, and this is bad.

The load on the bearings increases many times over, so they quickly fail. In itself, this is not so scary and expensive, although repairing a generator is quite labor-intensive. But the car owner does not always recognize the breakdown in time. The bearings gradually “break”, the rotor moves and begins to cling to the stator winding. The result is the need to purchase a new generator. Of course, the Kalina generator belt tensioner pulley can also fail, which happens quite regularly, but that’s only 400 rubles, not twelve thousand.

Belt and roller selection

Several types of belts are used on Lada Kalina cars.

The type of element depends on the engine model and its equipment:

The motor version without air conditioning and tensioner has a belt length of 823 mm. Gates (number 6PK823) is standardly used, but such a part is not supplied as spare parts. To replace it, a slightly different strap is used - Gates 6PK823SF.
The version of the unit with a belt tensioner, but without air conditioning is 882-884 mm. Standard part manufactured by Gates (article 6PK882). In addition to it, straps are often used - Finwhale BP6883, Dayco 6PK888 or the cheapest Balakovo belt BRT882.
Engine with air conditioning and belt tensioner (motor 11183) - 1018 mm. Standard element manufactured by Gates (number 6PK1018). Alternative options are Dayco 6PK1018 or Continental 6PK1015.
The 21127 16-valve engine with air conditioning and tensioner uses a 995 mm belt. The Gates part (6PK995) is supplied from the factory, and it is also used as a spare.

Sometimes when replacing a belt it becomes necessary to install a new tensioner. It is the same for all motors, its article number is 2123–1041056.

Symptoms of a problem

Damage to the tensioner is usually easy to diagnose. It is often noticeable visually. Running the car for a short time without an alternator belt helps to identify the problem. This often allows the damage to be localized. You should think about replacing the Kalina generator belt tensioner in the following cases:

Presence of traces of rust and corrosion on the roller axis.
A characteristic whistle when the engine is running.
Short service life of the alternator belt.
Curvature of the roller relative to the belt.

If the cause of the malfunction is precisely established, you can proceed to its elimination.

Video “Replacing the belt on Lada Kalina”

The author Kalinin talks about the procedure for replacing the belt on his Kalina with a tensioner.

A few days ago I did a small inspection of my Kalina, and noticed the fact that too much noise was heard from the tension roller of the alternator belt - a kind of rustling sound. It was decided to look at its condition and replace it if necessary. When I loosened the belt and turned the roller by hand, the sound of its operation was too “dry”, and it was heard that it was no longer working as “smoothly” as a normal bearing should work.

In general, it was decided that it was not worth driving further with such a roller and a new one was purchased for 700 rubles, made in Vologda, which is considered a “Factory ORIGINAL” type. But to what extent this is true, I will do a review on my channel a little later, where I will tell in detail and show all the real original spare parts that have been used for more than 50,000 km, and the “original” that is sold in stores.

But for now, let’s look at the procedure for replacing the tension roller. Firstly, it is worth noting that to replace it you will need the following tool:

8mm and 19mm wrench (to loosen belt tension)
13 and 17 mm wrenches
Flat blade screwdriver

First of all, open the hood and loosen the tension on the alternator belt. To do this, slightly loosen the large nut with a 19mm wrench and turn the rod clockwise until it is completely unscrewed. We tilt it back so that it is not in the way, having first unscrewed the bolt securing it from below, as shown in the photo.

The result is shown below.

After this, you need to use a flat-head screwdriver or a sharp awl to pry off the protective cap of the roller. This is not very convenient to do, but it is quite possible without much effort.

Under it there is a bolt securing the bearing to the bracket. We unscrew it with a key 17 clockwise, since the thread there is left-handed:

And remove it carefully so as not to lose the bolt, bushing and protective washer:

Now we remove all the above parts from the old roller and install them on the new roller.

Then a washer, which is like a protective cap against the ingress of dust and other substances.

Now you can install the new roller assembly in its place:

Tighten the bolt and tension the belt properly. This procedure can be considered complete. After starting the engine, no extraneous noise is heard from the generator, everything works perfectly quietly! Time will tell how long this “factory” video will last! The price, as mentioned above, is 700 rubles.

Forced tuning

Unfortunately, since 2011, designers have abolished the tensioner on Kalina. They were guided primarily by considerations of economy, but they did this without any modification to the generator. In practice, cases of its premature failure immediately became more frequent. Therefore, owners began to install the tensioner on their cars themselves.

It's not very difficult to do this. True, you will have to purchase not only the tensioner itself, but also the generator bracket. The only problem is removing the standard belt. It is very difficult to remove because it is very tight at the factory. You can simply cut it, as you will have to buy a new one. The fact is that the Kalina generator belt without a tensioner has a size of 820 mm, but 880 will be needed.

Step-by-step instructions for removing the generator from a Lada Granta car

Before altering the mount, we remove the converter from its standard place in the engine compartment. To do this, perform the following steps:

We place the car within the perimeter of the repair area, provide safety measures, and secure the rear row of wheels with wheel chocks. Additionally, squeeze the parking brake lever.
Open the hood and disconnect the terminals from the battery to prevent a short circuit in the circuit.

Accumulator battery

We unscrew 6 bolts under the bottom of the car and temporarily remove the oil pan protection.
Remove the protective cap and terminals from the contact board on the converter.

How to change it yourself?

The complexity of replacing the alternator belt on Kalina does not depend on the number of valves or additional units on the engine.

Replacement on 8 valve engines without tensioner

Replacing the belt on such an engine is the simplest; the only tools you need are a 13 mm wrench and a short flat-blade screwdriver. Since the tension in such a drive scheme is quite strong, when changing it is necessary to use only a Gates 6PK823SF or Dayco 825 six-V belt with the additional marking POLY-V. The remaining straps are too rigid, quickly collapse and damage the bearing on the generator shaft.

Stages of work

To complete the task you need to do the following:

Unscrew the lower mounting bolt of the generator 2-3 turns.
Unscrew the nut of the upper fastening, use a screwdriver to push out the bolt and remove it completely.
Lower the generator down. The eye of the mechanism must pass through the gap between the radiator and the TV body.
Remove the old belt and replace it with a new one. If the strap does not fit easily onto the pulleys, you can carefully tighten it using a screwdriver.
Raise the generator up, ensuring the belt is tensioned.
Insert the upper mounting point bolt and tighten the nut.
Tighten the lower mounting point bolt.
Check the operation of the belt.

The repair process on such an engine is clearly shown in the video filmed by the author Ilgiz Magafurov.

Replacement on 8 valve engines with tensioner

Here, the procedure for installing a new alternator belt is very different from that presented above.

Required Tools

To replace the alternator belt yourself, you will need at least the following tools:

regular or box wrench for 13, 17 and 19 mm nuts;
a head with a ratchet for 8 mm nuts; if it is not available, an open-end or regular wrench of the same size will do;
a screwdriver with a thin flat blade;
thin needle;
rags;
white spirit or gasoline, approximately 0.5 liters;
container and brush for washing;
CV joint bearing lubricant.

Stages of work

To adjust the degree of belt tension on Kalina engines, a mechanical tensioner is used, in contrast to the timing drive, which uses a hydraulic tensioner. When changing an element, it is recommended to carry out preventive maintenance of the roller by adding fresh lubricant.

To complete the work you need to do the following:

Loosen the roller bolt. The thread on it is reversed.
Use a screwdriver to pry up the plastic plug on the roller and carefully remove it.
Unscrew the fixing nut on the tensioner rod a few turns.
Loosen the belt tension by rotating the rod nut clockwise. The nut must be unscrewed until the rod begins to move freely in the seat.
Unscrew the side bolt securing the rod end, located next to the tension roller.
Remove the tensioner and set it aside.
Proceed to dismantle the strap. The procedure must begin with the generator pulley, while overcoming the slight resistance of the belt.
Remove the element from the crankshaft pulley and remove it completely.
Unscrew the roller bolt and remove it.
Using a needle, carefully pry up and remove the protective caps on the bearing. Wash the bearing with white spirit or gasoline.
Refill with fresh grease and install protective rubber caps.
Assemble all the parts and mount the roller in place. When assembling, you must remember that the bushing is in the bearing on the side of the bracket.
Change the belt by installing it in the reverse order - from the crankshaft pulley to the generator pulley.
Install the tensioner and begin tightening the belt by turning the nut counterclockwise. The nut must be tightened until the resistance increases. A well-tensioned strap should be slightly pressed when pressed by hand.
Tighten the nut securing the tensioner rod.
Check the operation of the mechanism; if a whistle occurs, tighten the strap.

Adjustment methods

Currently, there are three main methods of tensioning the alternator belt in cars:

Using a special arc-shaped strip. In this case, the generator has two mounting points. One of them is an axis around which it can move within small limits. The other is the nut on the adjustment bar. If you release it, you can move the pulley to the required distance. This method is now considered obsolete. It is mainly used on VAZ classics.
The generator is moved by rotating the adjusting bolt. This system has become widespread in cars of the tenth family.
Using a tensioner. This is a special movable roller that rests on the belt between the generator and crankshaft pulleys. It is equipped with a screw mechanism. By rotating it, you can adjust the pressing force. This is exactly the kind of alternator belt tensioner on the Lada Kalina.

The viburnum generator mounting bolt broke

To the beginning of the forum
Forum Rules
Old design
FAQ
Search
Users

that is, do not catch the head by welding and do not turn it out.
Did you make the diagnosis yourself or was it welded?

Google the words “extractor”, “back tap”. Drilling will be inconvenient, of course. For convenience, you can remove the cooling radiator. Extractor sets should be sold in tool stores like Vostok-service. Or drill to the maximum possible size and break out the remains. They also use nitric acid, afaik, but then the block will have to be removed.

Gena caught a wedge on the way. Write how you solve the problem.

It’s quite possible that he was going to sort it out when it was warmer, but apparently he decided not to wait for the warmth

I’m wondering whether it’s worth climbing or not interfering with the car’s drive.

remove the block, then let them look at the rings, etc., the car has driven 150k in the Murzilka, it says to change the rings at such a mileage, they have never climbed into the engine, it doesn’t eat oil, it doesn’t smoke. Compression is normal. I’m wondering whether it’s worth climbing or not interfering with the car’s drive.

In general, they solved the problem this way: they took a more powerful slotted screwdriver and a thin chisel (almost like a core) to get to the bracket fastening bolt more easily, so knocking out the groove on the remainder of the broken bolt, unscrewed it, with the bottom bolt we had to disassemble the entire engine protection on the overpass and knocking out the rest in the same way the bolt groove was turned out. The main thing here is not to overdo it so as not to kill the thread, as well as a screwdriver and a chisel where you can find harder steel.

I was lucky that the bolts didn't stick.

It's good that it ended well

Good afternoon, I’ve been reading the forum for a long time, and now I have a problem. In general, while driving on the highway, I saw that the voltage had dropped, stopped, opened the hood and saw a terrible picture:

One of the two lower mounting bolts of the generator broke off, and the bolt that holds the bracket for tensioning the generator belt also broke off. And the worst thing is that it broke off so that parts of the bolts remained in the block, i.e., you can’t grab the head by welding and turn it out. Please tell me whether it is possible to drill out these two bolts without removing the block? And can anyone advise me who has encountered this?

You can't do anything without removing it. First one broke off, and then the second one. I visited a bunch of services I knew. no way. While I'm driving, I secure it with improvised means. Apparently, the previous owner had a similar problem before me; the first bolt was broken off before me. So they used homemade fasteners there. like a powerful bracket, screwed on the side, not to the block, but to the side.

Source

Let's sum it up

This completes the dismantling procedure. Now you know how to tension the alternator belt. The steps for reinstallation are also very simple, so there is no particular need to comment on them. Upon completion of the entire list of installation procedures, we check the tension level for compliance with the specified requirements. We start the engine and observe the operation of the unit. If no side factors are detected, then the work was done correctly.

Also in LADA Kalina it is possible to remake the tensioning device, which is confirmed by this video:

Other VAZ models

However, for other modern VAZ cars with front-wheel drive, the procedure follows a similar scenario. For example, the technology for replacing the generator belt tensioner roller on a Priora is almost no different from that described. But the Priora does not have an adjustment pin. In principle, the roller can be unscrewed immediately. However, if it turns out that the belt is leaky, you will have to suffer.

Also find out why hydraulic lifters knock when hot and why valves knock when the engine is cold.

To replace the belt together with our part from the Priora, you need to hang the engine and unscrew the engine support cushion, as it interferes with removing the leaky V-belt drive.

As for the other AVTOVAZ model, the Lada Granta, initially it did not have a mechanism for tensioning the generator belt; due to the strong constriction of the belt drive, the electric motor bearing suffered. But the car was in the lead on the hot list of the cheapest cars in the world. Therefore, the owners were offered to independently replace the generator bracket with the same one from Kalina with minor modifications.

Consequently, replacing the generator tensioner belt roller for the Lada Granta is identical to a similar operation on the Kalina, provided that the Granta engine is equipped with a V-belt drive tensioning mechanism.

Nuances of the procedure on foreign cars

Well, with VAZs everything is clear, their maintainability is often pleasing, but in some popular foreign cars you need to disassemble half the car to get to any component. The situation is similar, for example, with a Chevrolet family car. To replace the generator belt tensioner roller on a Chevrolet Lacetti you will have to work hard. Although the reasons for the part failure are the same.

First, let's indicate what is required from the tool:

There are many stages to go through, we will list them.

Remove the interfering air filter housing.
Remove the exhaust manifold thermal shield.
We disconnect the power steering pump from the mounts and move it to the side on the hoses.
Using a 15mm wrench, we install our broken part into the mounting position.
We unscrew it.
We install the new one in the reverse order.

Here you can put an end to the repair.