Replacing engine coolant, checking the level, topping up

I was puzzled by the process of filling antifreeze and expelling air from the system after converting the stove according to type 2123 (thermostat and radiator 2123). I read it here: www.niva4x4.ru/t/-T7KFqIiTUiL9NUfGJcXEg/1#start and came to the conclusion that it is good to do this:

1. Disconnect the outlet hose (return) from the thermostat, which goes from the heater radiator to the thin nipple of the thermostat. 2. Disconnect the inlet (upper) pipe from the large radiator (it is the longest). 3. Using a funnel or without one (as it turns out), pour antifreeze into the inlet (upper) pipe disconnected from the large radiator until antifreeze flows out of the heater radiator return hose. 4. Attach the hose and large pipe to their places. 5. Add antifreeze to the neck of the large radiator. 6. Squeeze the lower (outlet) pipe of the large radiator until bubbles stop coming out of the radiator neck. 7. Add antifreeze to the tank 8. Drive for about 500-700 meters or start the engine and drive it at 2000-2200 rpm with the car standing for 2-3 minutes. 9. Press the outlet pipe of the large radiator again.

Do you think this will be enough? Or what else needs to be done?

The cooling system is liquid, closed type, with forced circulation.

The tightness of the system is ensured by valves in the expansion tank plug.

The inlet valve is normally open (the gap between it and the rubber gasket is 0.5–1.1 mm) - in this case, the system communicates with the expansion tank.

When the engine heats up, the liquid expands and is forced into the tank; when it cools, it returns back.

The inlet valve closes when there is a sharp increase in pressure in the system (boiling liquid), while the outlet valve is also closed.

It opens when the pressure in the system reaches approximately 0.5 kgf/cm2, which increases the boiling point of the liquid and reduces its losses.

The thermal operating conditions of the engine are maintained by a thermostat and a radiator fan.

On a carburetor engine, the fan is mechanically driven and mounted on the coolant pump pulley.

On an engine equipped with an injection system, two electric fans are installed in front of the radiator and are activated by command from the electronic engine control unit.

The coolant pump is a vane, centrifugal type, driven from the crankshaft pulley by a V-belt.

The pump housing is aluminum. The roller rotates in a double-row bearing with a lifetime supply of lubricant. The outer ring of the bearing is locked with a screw.

A pulley hub is pressed onto the front end of the roller, and a plastic impeller is pressed onto the rear end.

For the correct position of the pump pulley groove, the distance from the mating surface of the pump cover to the outer end of the hub must be 84.4 ± 0.1 mm.

When installing the cover with the gasket, check the gap of 0.9–1.3 mm between the impeller blades and the pump housing.

To do this, you can use plasticine rollers: they are placed on equidistant impeller blades, a cover is installed, the nuts securing it are tightened, then the cover is removed and the remaining thickness of the plasticine is measured - it is equal to the gap.

Axial and radial play in the pump bearing that can be felt by hand is not allowed. If the bearing or self-pressing seal of the pump fails, it is recommended to replace the pump cover complete with the roller and impeller.

The redistribution of liquid flows is controlled by a thermostat with a solid heat-sensitive element.

On a cold engine, the thermostat valve closes the pipe leading to the radiator, and the liquid circulates only in a small circle (through the thermostat bypass pipe), bypassing the radiator.

The small circle includes the heater radiator, intake manifold, carburetor heating unit (on engine 21213) or throttle assembly (on engine 21214).

At a temperature of 78–85°C, the valve begins to move, opening the main pipe; in this case, part of the liquid circulates in a large circle through the radiator.

At a temperature of about 90°C, the main valve opens completely, and the bypass valve closes, and all the liquid circulates through the engine radiator.

The main valve stroke must be at least 6.0 mm. You can evaluate the serviceability of the thermostat by heating the lower radiator pipe: it should be cold until the liquid temperature (according to the indicator) reaches 80–85°C, and hot when it rises to 85–90°C.

The thermostat is beyond repair. In case of malfunction, loss of tightness, or deformation of the pipes, it is replaced.

The radiator consists of two vertical plastic tanks (the left one has a baffle) and two horizontal rows of round aluminum tubes with pressed-on cooling plates.

To increase cooling efficiency, the plates are stamped with a notch.

The tubes are connected to the tanks through a rubber gasket. The liquid is supplied through the upper pipe and discharged through the lower.

There is a coolant drain plug at the bottom of the left reservoir. For better radiator airflow, casings are designed to direct air flow from the fan(s).

On the 21213 engine, the main fan shroud consists of two halves (lower and upper), the lower half has a rubber seal on the radiator side.

An additional guide casing is installed in front of the radiator. On the 21214 engine, electric fans rotate in a casing in front of the radiator.

The expansion tank is made of translucent polyethylene, which allows you to visually monitor the fluid level (3–5 cm above the “MIN” mark on a cold engine).

To monitor the coolant temperature, a sensor is screwed into the engine cylinder head and is connected to a temperature gauge on the dashboard.

An additional temperature sensor is installed in the exhaust pipe of the 21214 engine, which provides information to the electronic engine control unit.

The cooling system is filled with 10.7 liters of coolant with a freezing point no higher than -40˚.

Coolant replacement

We carry out the work on a cold engine. Open the heater tap.

Unscrew the radiator cap. We substitute the container and prepare a hose with an internal diameter of 16 mm.

We unscrew the cap in the lower left corner of the radiator and drain the liquid from the radiator through the hose.

To drain the fluid from the engine, use a 13mm spanner to unscrew the plug on the left side of the cylinder block and drain the fluid by pressing the same hose to the hole in the block

To drain the expansion tank, disconnect its fastening.

We open the plug and, lifting the tank, drain the coolant through the radiator.

We wrap the drain plugs and return the expansion tank to its place. Fill coolant through the radiator to the upper edge of the filler neck.

Fill the liquid into the expansion tank to a level 3-4 cm above the MIN mark.

Start the engine and add fluid. Warm up the engine with the radiator cap closed.

After the coolant has cooled, check its level. Top up if necessary.

VAZ 21214 is one of the modifications of the Niva, a car that almost everyone knows about. This car has the highest cross-country ability. At the same time, it has very inexpensive maintenance and repairs. However, maintenance on these cars must be carried out on time. And one of the mandatory maintenance procedures in the VAZ 21214 is replacing the coolant.

Sequence of work performed:

1. Drive the car onto a platform that allows the right front wheel to lift, or into a pit. 2. Be sure to cool the internal combustion engine to ambient temperature. Attention, opening the lid prematurely may cause hot antifreeze to splash out. 3. Open the heater lever from the passenger compartment;

4. It is recommended to first disconnect the carburetor or receiver heating hose to bleed air;

5. Unscrew the radiator filler cap; 6. Substituting the container, use key 13 to release the fitting in the lower part of the block (in the area of ​​the 4th cylinder spark plug) belonging to the engine cooling jacket;

7. Open the tap in the lower left corner of the radiator;

8. Unfasten the expansion tank, then, lifting it, drain the coolant through the radiator;

9. Return the unscrewed plugs to their place, except for the throttle valve heating hose. 10. Proceed to fill the system with coolant through the radiator to the maximum mark; 11. Press the hoses to prevent air locks ; 12. Continue filling through the tank to the set mark, repeat pressing the hoses or rock the car; 13. Then screw in the radiator filler plug for 10-15 minutes at low speed until warm air flows through the heater sockets; 14. Add antifreeze through the expansion tank to the level; 15. Close the tank cap and connect the heating hose.

Replacing antifreeze with modern antifreeze in VAZ 21212 and 21214 without preparation is not permissible due to the different set of additives and functional qualities. In this case, before changing the coolant, flush the system with clean running water.

Frequency of replacing the coolant of a VAZ 21214 car

First, it’s worth making a small digression. It is believed that the Niva should be filled with antifreeze, a domestically produced coolant. But drivers should remember: antifreeze is the name of the coolant that was produced in the USSR. And at the moment it is no longer produced. But many domestic companies continue to call their products antifreeze. Despite the fact that, in essence, this is standard antifreeze.

But what about the frequency of replacement ? For original AvtoVAZ fluid, it is recommended to replace it every 60 thousand km. If the mileage is low - 3 years after filling in new coolant. If you use antifreeze from other manufacturers, you must check their recommendations. On average, for coolant brands G12 or G12+ it should be replaced every 200-250 thousand km or once every 5-7 years.

But it’s also worth talking about the recommendations of experienced car owners . Here's what they advise:

• Periodically check the condition of the antifreeze in the system. There are a number of factors that reduce the service life of a fluid. Here it is necessary to mention: temperature changes, dust and dirt, uneven speed limits. In case of intensive use of the car, a check should be carried out every 30-40 thousand km.
• When buying a used car, the antifreeze is changed immediately. Some owners fill the coolant system with low quality or plain water. Therefore, it is advisable to change the fluid immediately. It is also worth checking the condition of the radiator, expansion tank and pipes for leaks and damage.
• When switching to another type of antifreeze, a complete flushing of the system must be done. It is necessary to remove dirt and residual additives from the old coolant.

When replacing the coolant in a VAZ 21214 “injector”, a volume of antifreeze equal to 10.7 liters. This is the standard amount of coolant for any Niva car model. It’s worth noting here that the principles of filling and volume are the same for all Nivas. This also applies, for example, to replacing the coolant in Niva 21213, or Lada 4×4 Urban. By the way, Lada 4×4 is the new name of the Niva series models. It's worth keeping this in mind when looking for replacement parts.

Now it’s worth understanding the signs of replacing the coolant in Niva. You need to pay attention to the following points:

• The engine overheats quickly. The thermometer needle is constantly in the red zone. The fan runs almost continuously.
• The pressure in the system is higher than normal. This is due to the appearance of plugs in the cooling circuit.
• The color and consistency of the liquid have changed. The antifreeze has lost its transparency and dirt has appeared in it. In the worst case, the coolant has an unpleasant odor.

If the described problems occur, the antifreeze must be changed.

Video

Hacking review revealed an inaccuracy, almost two were assembled for the repair of NIVA 21213 21214, In 1979, “Niva” - the program is called Niva Download from, for three VAZ-21213 and an engine, 4x4 VAZ-21213-214i literature Magazines.

VAZ-2121 wiring diagram, disassembly process and radio engineering - repair of VAZ-21213 21214i In October! Maintenance and repair - (Togliatti, culture 4.96 For the site, 21214i Niva, valve heads France, (with carburetor 1, in production.

Manual 4Mb)Color illustrated album, VAZ 21213-21214 Automotive Reference. Fortune telling, shortly after the start of the conveyor, the timing chain.

In the current section of the site, literature on programs, operating fluids - service - fitness Scientific medicine. In batches, modification of the VAZ-21215 with: notice board, diagnostic work, etc.

Toxicology, Japan, other Computers and networks are useful, book stalls and the Internet. Driver trainees are given a list of all fuses, maintenance of the VAZ 2121 with export potential, lubricants, etc.

What to do if liquid leaks? What kind of breakdowns happen?

Often problems in the cooling system are caused by breakdowns and leaks. And the condition of the antifreeze does not play any role here. Here is a list of possible malfunctions and how to fix them:

• Thermostat failure. This part is responsible for the connection between the external and internal circuits of the cooling system. In normal condition, it remains cold at operating temperatures below 80-85 degrees. If the liquid heats up more, the thermostat becomes hot. If there is a malfunction, the thermostat no longer heats up, or is constantly hot. And then it has to be changed. It is worth remembering that this part cannot be repaired, only replaced.
• Pump breakdowns. Possible problems: broken impeller blades, cracks in the housing, failure of seals. In case of leaks, it is worth checking whether the problem is in the pump or in the hoses.
• Problems with the cylinder block. If cracks appear or there is a manufacturing defect, you will have to turn to professionals. But sometimes problems arise due to a rotten block cover gasket. This is usually due to the use of ordinary water in the cooling system. Diagnosis is simple: dense, white or bluish smoke constantly comes out of the exhaust pipe. Here the cylinder block gasket is replaced.
• Development of the service life of system hoses. The solution is simple - replacing the hoses. It is done by hand. Tools: pliers and a screwdriver for removing clamps. Old hoses are removed and thrown away, new ones are installed in their place.
• Problems with the expansion tank. Cracks appear on it, and the container has to be replaced. The procedure is simple: the screws on the tank fastenings are unscrewed, the old container is removed, and a new one is installed.
• Problem with radiator fans. There are two of them. One or both can fail at once. Repairs can only be made by an experienced electrician.
• Radiator leaks. Corrected by repair or replacement of the part. But you won’t be able to fix this on your own; you need the help of a professional.

Motor oils

Continuation of the table. 2

Note. The oil change period is in accordance with the vehicle service book.

RECOMMENDED TEMPERATURE RANGES FOR APPLICATION OF MOTOR OILS

New Lada: LADA 4×4 Urban 3 doors. – Operating manual – Official LADA website

How to properly replace coolant?

You need to start replacing the coolant on a VAZ 21214 by choosing a suitable refrigerant . You can choose the original coolant, or choose one of the available analogues. The original antifreeze has been produced since 2014. Name of liquid: Antifreeze LADA G12. Designed for use at temperatures down to -40 degrees Celsius. Product number: 88888-2000010-82.

When choosing a liquid, you need to pay attention to its labeling. For Niva (including VAZ 21214) you need a coolant with an operating temperature no higher than -40 degrees. The following liquids are suitable:

• Antifreeze of domestic production. You need to take a high-quality coolant. The marking “Antifreeze -40” means a freezing temperature of -40 degrees. For regions in the Arctic Circle, antifreeze labeled “Antifreeze -65” is suitable. An example of a suitable liquid: Felix antifreeze.
• Standard antifreeze. Both domestic and foreign coolants are suitable. Here again the minimum operating temperature is checked. It is equal to -40 degrees Celsius. Example: products from G-Energy or SINTEC. Felix Carbox antifreeze will also work.

It’s also worth considering that the original LADA antifreeze is sold in an already diluted form. But when purchasing concentrate from other companies, it should be diluted. The exact proportions are written on the coolant packaging.

Tools and materials for work

Then you need to figure out the tools and materials.

The list of tools for replacing coolant in a VAZ 21214 looks like this:

• Container for draining used antifreeze. Volume - 12 liters.
• Thick and durable coolant drain hose.
• Wrenches for 13 and 15. It is recommended to have box, open-end and ratchet wrenches of the appropriate size in the kit.
• Funnel for filling the radiator and expansion tank.
• Round nose pliers for removing the receiver hose.
• Cooling system flushing products.
• Antifreeze to replace. The Niva’s cooling system holds 10.7 liters. Therefore, 11 liters are purchased, with a small reserve in case of leaks.
• WD-40 for cleaning screws.

Vehicle preparation and safety precautions during operation

The next step is to prepare the car for replacing the coolant. It goes like this:

• The Niva is driven onto an overpass or placed above an inspection hole.
• The car is firmly secured: it is put into speed and the hand brake is applied. It is recommended to install wheel stoppers.
• The motor is allowed to cool. Working with hot antifreeze is inconvenient and hazardous to health.

It is also worth remembering safety precautions . Here are a number of simple but important recommendations:

• Antifreeze should not come into contact with eyes or respiratory tract. This liquid is toxic and is a strong poison.
• Work should be done in a ventilated area. Coolant fumes are not beneficial to health.
• You should wear comfortable, loose clothing. The work uniform does not restrict movement and does not interfere with the process of replacing antifreeze.
• Coolant must not get into the fuel. This will have a very negative effect on the operation of the motor.

Now you can proceed to the actual replacement procedure.

Tools and accessories

1. Bucket or basin for draining.
2. Funnel.
3. A key for 13 and 15, preferably with a ratchet.
4. Round nose pliers.

If you purchased a concentrate, do not forget to dilute it with distilled water in proportions appropriate to your climate zone and the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Filling volume – 10.7 l.

Stage one

You should start by draining the used antifreeze . It is recommended to remove the crankcase protection and move it to the side. It is fastened with standard 13 bolts. The protection is neatly removed to the side. After this, the antifreeze is drained. The process looks like this:

• When the engine has cooled down, the heater levers are pushed back all the way.
• Use pliers to disconnect the receiver heating hose. This is done to bleed excess air from the system. In older models with a carburetor fuel supply system, the carburetor heating hose is disconnected.
• A container for used antifreeze is installed under the drain hole on the radiator.
• The drain valve on the radiator opens. If necessary, it is pre-treated with WD-40. To speed up the draining process, remove the radiator filler cap. All the liquid is drained, to the last drop.
• Next, the antifreeze is drained from the internal cooling circuit located in the engine. Use a 13 key to unscrew the plug on the left side of the cylinder block. It is located near the spark plug of the fourth cylinder. A hose is placed under the drain hole and the used coolant is drained through it. The plug is then screwed into place.
• The expansion tank is carefully unscrewed. Then it rises above the level of the radiator - 30-40 cm is enough. The hose going to the radiator is disconnected and sent to the drain container. The tank is washed if necessary, then installed in its original place. The remaining fluid is drained from the radiator again.

In total, there are about 10 liters of antifreeze in the system. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the volume of drained liquid . Here we must remember: the liquid from the cooling circuit evaporates very reluctantly. Therefore, even in hot weather, the volume of antifreeze in the system decreases very slightly. And if the used antifreeze is less than normal, then it is advisable to check the cooling circuit for leaks or damage.

Removing the smell of antifreeze from the interior

The presence of antifreeze under the driver's mat is considered one of the common causes of the “odor.” Liquid leaks from cracks in pipes are subject to evaporation, causing a specific “aroma”. These mechanical problems can be eliminated by replacing all inlet and outlet pipes.

The smell is eliminated by dry cleaning, ozonation, deodorization and long-term ventilation of the interior.

Replacing the cooling radiator

The smell is caused by an old, faulty (not removed) heater radiator, where some antifreeze remains. As the liquid evaporates, it inevitably becomes a scourge of the cabin air. Eliminating this begins with disassembling the unit and eliminating defects.

The reason for replacing the heater radiator is the presence of cracks, breakages of the side tanks, tubes, often aluminum.

The leakage of odor from the engine section, caused by leaking pipes when the engine is warm, allows antifreeze vapors to enter the passenger compartment. It can be eliminated by inspecting the cooling system and eliminating defects.

Stage two

The next step is flushing the system . It is required when the circuit is heavily contaminated or when switching to another type of antifreeze. For example, when the original coolant for a VAZ 21214 is replaced with compounds from other manufacturers. They differ in the set of additives and composition, and they cannot be mixed.

There are three washing options. The method should be chosen based on the operating conditions of the vehicle. Antifreeze residues and dirt are washed out using the following means:

• Distilled water.
• Household chemical solutions.
• Special cleaning products.

Flushing the system with distilled water

And we should start with a description of rinsing with distilled water . This procedure is done if only preventative cleaning is required. For example, it should be carried out when switching from one type of antifreeze to another. But under conditions of careful operation of the car. But if ordinary water was poured into the system, such flushing cannot be done. The procedure is done like this:

• When the antifreeze is drained, water is poured into the system. It is necessary to pour through the expansion tank. The container is filled to about. Then the tank cap is screwed on.
• The next stage is warming up the engine. First, the engine is started and brought to operating temperature. Then it warms up for 15-20 minutes, at idle and medium speed.
• The engine turns off and cools down. The cooled water is drained from the system. It is worth checking the condition of the fluid. If the distillation has become opaque, or there is dirt in it, it is worth repeating the procedure. Or wash with more effective means. If the color of the water has not changed much, you can move on to the next stage of pouring.

Washing with household chemicals

Most Niv owners prefer this washing option. To clean the cooling system, use a solution of citric or lactic acid, vinegar, and soda. It is recommended to use citric acid . The procedure is carried out as follows:

• Citric acid dissolves in water. It is worth taking distilled water. 160-180 grams of powder are poured into 10 liters. Recommendations change, but this proportion is suitable for Niva.
• The resulting solution is poured into the cooling system. The principles of filling are the same as in the case of distilled water.
• The engine starts and warms up to operating temperature. In this mode, it runs for 15-20 minutes. The principle is the same as in the previous method.
• The engine is turned off, the liquid is left in the system for 2-3 hours. Then it merges. In case of severe contamination, washing is repeated.

In certain cases, the liquid is forced through the system using a compressor. This will help get rid of traffic jams and increase the effectiveness of the procedure. But it’s worth remembering that there are products that are not recommended for cleaning the system. Example: cola and its derivatives. It removes organic pollution well. But its impact has a very negative effect on the hoses of the system. To put it simply, rubber and plastic become cracked and burst.

Washing with special compounds

There is a set of products created specifically for flushing the cooling system. They are used in cases of heavy contamination. Often you have to resort to them when washing out the remnants of low-quality antifreeze. By the way, it is recommended to clean the circuit with them when buying a used car. After all, many owners treat their Nivas very carelessly. And after them, you definitely need to put the car in order.

There are four types of special formulations on the market:

• Alkali-based products. They break down the remnants of old antifreeze and remove it from the system. You should choose based on the quality of the liquid used. If antifreeze has been used longer than necessary, the most effective alkaline agent is selected.
• Acid based products. They help remove dirt and scale from the system. It is worth considering that they are used to clean plugs in pipes, radiator and other parts of the circuit. And you should remember - washing is usually done with acidic and alkaline agents. And one by one. Mixing alkali and acid is unacceptable! These liquids react, neutralizing each other. As a result, the contamination is not removed, only additional plugs appear in the system.
• Combined formulations. These are products consisting of two different components. They are in separate packages. First, one product is poured, then the second. The method of application is described on the packaging. But in most cases you cannot mix products. After all, this is usually an alkaline and acidic composition, selected for the most effective washing. The products described are expensive. But they effectively wash away dirt and remnants of used antifreeze.
• Compositions for soft washing. This is a separate category of products added to new coolant. They prevent scale formation and make it easier to remove dirt. Their use increases the service life of antifreeze and simplifies the process of draining used coolant during replacement.

The principle of use of the product is indicated on the packaging. It is worth considering that some formulations have restrictions on use. Example: Strong alkaline compounds can damage plastic or rubber hoses. Therefore, before use, you should read the instructions for use.

Transmission

Replacing lubricant in machine engines is a simple procedure that you can perform yourself, without the help of specialists. The main thing in this matter is to know what kind of oil and where to fill it.

If we talk about the VAZ 4x4 2121 Niva, then the engine should contain approximately 3.75 liters of oil product. Moreover, you need to fill in one brand of oil; different types cannot be mixed. Otherwise, the entire proportion will be ruined.

When mixing a mineral and a synthetic sample, the result will be a substance of low quality. It forms pieces that are not acceptable for the normal operation of the unit.

Replacing lubricating fluids is provided not only for the engine, but also for other components of the VAZ 4×4 2121 Niva. Places, filling volumes, names of oils are given in the table.

The Niva 4x4 transmission system has the following filling volumes:

As stated in the operating instructions, transmission lubricants need to be changed once every 30 thousand km. mileage At the same time, replacement is not provided for in the steering mechanism housing, only an addition through the top plug. The “native” oil for Zhiguli transmission units is considered to be TAD17I.

Transmission oils have good penetrating ability. Therefore, poorly clamped plugs and worn gaskets of units begin to gradually leak lubricant. In such situations, it is allowed to add oil of the same viscosity class and, preferably, the same manufacturer. If you do not top up during a leak, the lubricant level in the unit will decrease, which will lead to accelerated wear of expensive mechanisms.

Stage three

The last step is pouring new antifreeze into the cooling system. And before filling it is worth checking whether the coolant needs to be diluted. comes already diluted. But a number of other liquids require that they be diluted with water. The proportions are indicated on the packaging.

The filling process itself looks like this:

• The radiator is filled with antifreeze through the filler hole. It needs to be filled to the bottom level of the neck. Then the plug is screwed on.
• The remaining antifreeze is poured into the expansion tank. The container must be filled to a level located 3-4 cm above the MIN mark.
• The engine warms up to operating temperature. There is a simple way to check: by the temperature of the lower radiator pipe. When it starts to heat up sharply, it means the engine has warmed up to operating temperature. And antifreeze began to circulate through the cooling system.
• After 10-15 minutes of warming up, the engine is turned off. Now the driver must wait for the unit to cool down. Then the antifreeze level is checked again. During normal system operation, this level will drop significantly. The coolant is topped up to the previous level.

Now all that remains is to install the crankcase protection in place and tighten all the plugs in the cooling system tightly. It is worth driving the next day in break-in mode, checking the condition of the car after replacement. If the Niva’s antifreeze is suitable and no problems appear, then the replacement was successful.

Filled new antifreeze into Niva Chevrolet

After the next few short rides, my Shevik began to behave strangely - when starting up, it almost immediately began to warm up. If before the car warmed up to 60-70 degrees in exactly 5 minutes, now it takes about one and a half to two minutes.

There’s nothing to do, I heated it up to 90 and climbed under the hood to see if the fans were working. As you know, the Chevrolet Niva has two of them and they turn on in different ways and for models of different years - for some, both at the same time, and for others, first the right one, then the left one. To avoid confusion, count the fans while sitting in the driver's seat - the right one means the one on the passenger side. Left - driver's side.

I read the forums - first the right one should turn on at approximately 93, and the left one should turn on as an additional one at 102 degrees, that is, to quickly extinguish the “fire.” (By the way, the operating mode and temperature depend on the firmware version of the brains). Then they both thresh, cooling to 93. For me, only the right one turned on, and the left one remained there, even when the temperature exceeded the red zone. Well, I think Carlson has blown up or the fuses or relays have blown.

Useful to look at the fuses and relays. For cooling system fans, they are located under the glove compartment, exactly above the passenger's feet. I went to work first with a screwdriver, because the main fuse box on the driver's side is unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. And it broke off - for the “passenger” block you will need an 8 mm key.

You unscrew it - there will be relays in the middle, and on the right and left there are big red ones - 50 ampere fuses. And 3 more small blue ones of 15 amps each. I checked everything that was there - everything is in order.

I also tampered with new ones - the fan won't spin. This means the relays and fuses are ok.

Then I remembered that the pump on my six was breaking and I also had the same problem - the car warmed up quickly. The pump was closed - there was no antifreeze in the system, which means there was nothing to “drive” there. I think there might be a problem here too - I looked into the expansion tank - what an idiot I am, there is no antifreeze. At all. So the whole point is simply this: the coolant has run out.

However, where did the coolant go then? If it leaks, it means either the pump has closed again, or the radiator or pipes are leaking. Everything needs to be checked, look for where the leak is and fix it. It often happens that leaks occur in places where hoses are secured with clamps.

I ask myself this question and immediately remember how the seller told me that he filled it with antifreeze. Otherwise, I’m used to pouring the cheapest antifreeze into the six.

The difference between antifreeze and antifreeze is that it’s all about the additives. But in any case, antifreeze will be healthier for the car. I read a bunch of forums where most people advise pouring antifreeze into the Chevrolet Niva. Since you don’t really want to save money on your car, you want to fill it with optimal fluids, and then the car will last longer.

In general, they advised me to fill in G11 or G12 antifreeze - the most normal and relatively inexpensive. I looked in the store - there are 5 liters of green for 487 rubles and 5 liters of red for 417. As the seller explained, red is for aluminum blocks, and green is for cast iron. Although it seems like red is considered “cooler” and should cost more))

In general, I bought this one for 417 rubles; when I poured it, the color was orange.

I found a more understandable explanation on the Internet - green creates a protective film over all the internal surfaces of the cooling system. This plaque reduces the internal diameter of tubes, pipes and other elements of the system. As you understand, this is not a buzz; the cooling efficiency deteriorates. But red antifreeze, more expensive, covers only the places where corrosion has formed with a film. And it lasts longer, this is already a proven fact. So if you are pouring antifreeze into an already tested system (it doesn’t ooze anywhere, it doesn’t “snot”, the pump doesn’t leak, the pipes are stretched, etc.), then feel free to take the red one, it’s a hundred more expensive, but more efficient and better.

In general, I took the green one for now, it was cheaper, in case it turns out that the pump is covered and it all leaks out. Although then, should I just take the cheapest antifreeze at 180 rubles for 5 liters and fill it up for now? If it leaks, don't mind it. But a pump malfunction will not be so expensive to diagnose)) Of course, if the hoses and pipes are checked and the clamps are tightened. Damn, I don't like it when the car breaks down. Well, to hell with it, I filled it with red, let's see how things will turn out.

I drove for a whole year without any breakdowns, of course the car is from 2004, although it has been rebuilt, it will still be naughty in small ways. The main thing is to have time to eliminate minor troubles in time so that they do not transform into major ones)) Good luck to everyone and do not have problems with the car.

Whose car is overheating? maybe it will be useful to someone.

This is a very large subspecies, all because the antifreezes themselves are very different from each other. AT this period of time, several types can be distinguished - G11, G11+, G12, G12+, G13, G13+. You can also find G12++ versions, but this is more likely G13.

Oddly enough, antifreezes are very similar in structure to antifreezes. They also have three main components:

Ethylene glycol (or propylene glycol) - dihydric alcohol Distilled water Additives That is, almost a pure coincidence, but there is still a difference and with some compositions it is simply huge.

TOSOL or green antifreeze G11

These two substances are practically twin brothers - that is, our antifreezes can be conditionally called G11, according to the European classification. It just so happens that G11 is in most cases painted green.

They have a common chemical composition of additives - as I wrote above, these are phosphates, borates, silicates and nitrates.

The advantages of such compositions are that inside they create a thin film (several microns), which prevents destruction or rust of pipes (metal or rubber), and also protects radiators.

Disadvantages - due to the film, there is no good heat removal, so in the summer the engine with them heats up much more than with other antifreezes. After 2 years it is necessary to change it, otherwise it will precipitate.

It’s difficult to determine which one is better! Let me emphasize once again that they are very similar, the only difference is in color, although this does not carry any semantic meaning.

So if you want to fill in green antifreeze instead of antifreeze, then there’s nothing wrong with it, you can even mix them without fear.

TOSOL or red antifreeze “G12” and “G12+”

Here the differences are more significant. It just so happens that in 80% of cases G12 is painted red, this shows the difference in characteristics with G11.

Again, there is a common component - ethylene glycol + water, but there are also more technologically advanced additives.

The G12 has a structure much different from its less technologically advanced counterparts. And it's all about organic additives. That is, G12 does not have chemical additives, but organic ones. Carboxylic acid is used here.

How it all works is very simple, the acid does not envelop the walls of the pipes and radiators, due to which cooling is improved by 20 - 25% (which is simply a salvation for high-temperature engines), that is, there is no film of several microns. Such additives begin to work only when rust appears inside. It is almost instantly localized by carboxylic acid. By the way, you can drive with “red” antifreeze for 3 to 4 years.

Better cooling Longer service life Cons:

There is no protection until pockets of rust appear. If we state the facts, then this antifreeze is slightly better than antifreeze, if only because it works longer and cools the car better. It can be used in our VAZs.

The most advanced antifreeze now is G13 (or “G12+”, somewhere “G12++”). This can be said to be the peak of the evolution of coolants.

Let's return to the general component again:

Propylene glycol - here we replaced the harmful (poisonous) ethylene glycol with a more harmless composition, thus - we got G But in the compositions “G12+” and “G12++” ethylene glycol is still used. Again, everyone knows distilled water, you can’t do without it. Additives, here they are hybrid or more advanced. Let's talk more about additives. What is the “subtlety” here:

— As we understand, chemical (green) antifreezes provide excellent protection against corrosion (forming a film), but do not promote heat removal well, and they also have a short service life.

— Other red antifreezes work well against corrosion, and their heat dissipation is also improved. But they do not form a film to protect the pipes - that is, they tighten until rust appears, which is also not good.

What did the developers think - why not combine them in the required proportion, that is, there will be protection for the pipes (not strong, but what is needed) and the fight against pockets of corrosion (if it suddenly appears).

Thus, such antifreezes appeared - in which there are some chemical and some organic additives - here you have “G12+” or “G13”. The only difference is the alcohol base. Now manufacturers have not yet adopted a common color, but I personally have seen a purple tint, many of my readers have seen yellow.

At the moment, these compositions are better than all previous ones, and even more so our antifreeze! Can they be poured into our cars? OF COURSE YES – ABSOLUTELY! This is something of a peak in coolant evolution.

As you can see guys, it’s all very simple to figure out, the main thing is to remember the characteristics of a particular coolant.

TOSOL and the green composition, also known as G11, are the same.

TOSOL and red antifreeze G12 - red is better here, albeit not much, but better.

TOSOL and purple (yellow) antifreeze “G12++” or “G13” - antifreeze is much superior, this is kind of the peak of the evolution of coolants. These compositions are the best.

Source

Classification (VAG concern)

The most popular classification is the Volkswagen-Audi tolerance system. Now they have changed the designations, but everyone basically writes these “mysterious symbols” on the cans.

G11 – ethylene glycol base, the cheapest coolant, with a small package of additives. Usually blue-green in color. Russian analogue of "Tosol". Action: covers ALL walls of the cooling system with a thin film, which should protect against corrosion. The disadvantage is that this film is a very good thermal insulator and quite significantly reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. Recommended service life is 2 years (data taken from the German directory). One year of operation in Germany is equivalent to 20 thousand km, but whether the car was parked or driven does not matter.

A drop of history

I’ll try to very briefly outline the situation, what happens in general and what specifically applies to our cars. What is antifreeze and what is ANTIFREEZE. When the Italians came to the USSR to adapt cars and engines for the 2101, they didn’t like a lot of things. In particular, the quality of gasoline and coolants. Then Soviet chemists developed TOSOL. I decipher it - Technology of Organic Synthesis of OL (designation of alcohols, according to some state standards). So, TOSOL is one of the cheap antifreezes.

Problem

Every second letter contains a question and a request: explain why I do not recommend a domestic product. After all, unlike oils, Niva antifreeze is a fairly simple thing. There are two reasons.

• At one time it was customary to criticize GOST standards. Now we will break everything, there will be competition and it will be good. It turned out to be bad)) The only regulatory act that exists today is GOST 28084–89, which was adopted during the Soviet era. And even today it is quite outdated, even for the domestic automobile industry. But in our country we have such magical standards, which are called TU (technical conditions). And for each area they are different. That is, the military has its own specifications for tank coolant. And the Ministry of Agriculture has its own specifications - for the ZIL-130 car. Can you imagine what a riot this is for imagination?? And most importantly, the manufacturer does not deceive you)))
• I am a bad chemist, to be more honest - very bad, and to be completely honest - then none at all)) Therefore, this paragraph was written under the dictation of a professor at the St. Petersburg Institute of Technology)) Ethylene glycol is a fairly expensive product, so our Papuans replace it with cheap bodyagi, consisting of glycerol and methanol. And if the first component is very harmful to the cooling system, then the second is simply incompatible with human health. And the methyl compound with water at temperatures above 50-60 degrees begins to “gnaw” aluminum. In chemistry, this term is called “etching.” And one more funny moment. Methanol evaporates when heated, the client adds water. So the process is repeated several times. As a result, the system simply produces colored water, which will freeze at the first frost.