Triangular levers for VAZ 2108

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The triangular lever is a light, rigid and at the same time non-deformable front suspension unit. It is installed instead of a standard part, which consists of a suspension arm and a brace, which are connected by rubber hinges (silent blocks).

The triangular lever on the VAZ can significantly improve handling and reduce the drift of suspension angles.

Installing a triangular lever allows you to change the direction of the load, on the front panel for VAZ 2108-2109-21099 and on the beam for VAZ 2110-2112, from longitudinal to transverse. This provides an additional rigid connection between the front panel and the place where the spar is attached to the body. Wishbones increase the rigidity of the front part of the car body and increase the stability of the suspension geometry of the VAZ 2108 ¶

Visual difference between standard levers and wishbones of the VAZ suspension:

Purpose of triangular levers on a VAZ

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Body structure of the VAZ 2101

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Before we begin tuning the body of the VAZ 2101, I consider it necessary to take a detailed look at this most important part of our vehicle.

So, the body of the VAZ 2101 is a rigid spatial truss made of steel, which consists of sequentially assembled, non-separable elements:

1	Base (bottom) assembled with front part and rear panel
2	"Plumage" of the front part
3	The left and right sidewalls are in line with the rear “tail”
4	Roof

The base is a trough-shaped, all-stamped panel with a tunnel in the center. The tunnel has two functions:

Protects the elements placed in it from damage (in our case, the driveshaft is located in it);
Increases underbody resistance to torsion/deformation, as do side members welded along the base*.

Spar* is a stamped steel beam with a box-shaped section.

Profile view

In the front part they are combined into a single whole:

The front side members serve as power elements carrying the front suspension with the power unit;
Front shield;
Panel;
Wings;
Mudguards.

The rear section also contains mudguards and a luggage compartment panel.

Side view

The left and right sidewalls consist of outer and inner panels connected to each other:

The outer panel consists of the C-pillar, A-pillar, B-pillar, sill and rear fender;
The internal panel includes many power elements (strut amplifiers, etc.).

View from above

And finally, the all-stamped structure, reinforced with cross members, is called the roof of the car.

The elements of the body shell are made by stamping from thin sheet steel. The low weight, high strength and durability of such a design fully comply with the basic requirements of the functionality inherent in it.

Next, its removable elements are mounted to this resulting one-piece welded body:

Trunk lid;
Hood;
Doors;
Front facing;
Decorative elements, etc. accessories.

But there is no point in flattery going into extraneous “wilds”; let’s continue the conversation about strengthening the body of classic vases.

Wishbones on Priora - disassembly

We drive into a pit or lift the car on a lift. If you have a hole, jack up the front end and start disassembling it. We remove the wheels to provide access to the levers.

Note: To avoid problems during assembly, I recommend taking measurements of the control points (between the levers) and writing them down on paper. This will avoid confusion with setting gaps, castor and camber.

In order for the fastening nuts to unscrew without problems, we treat the threaded connections with WD-40 penetrating fluid or an equivalent.
One by one, unscrew the nuts securing the lever (ball, stabilizer link, etc.), marked in the photo.

Once the lever has been successfully removed, assembly can begin.

Installation of wishbones on Lada Priora

If the ball is “live”, you can fill it with new grease and install it in place; if not, be sure to replace it.
We install the new lever in the following sequence: “halve” the lever (separate the two halves of the lever), install the part that acts as a stretcher, then into the beam, after that we assemble the lever, and at the end we insert the lever into the ear of the body.

The right lever is more difficult to install, since the wheel drive interferes. In addition, installing the lever bolt required the help of a jack, which had to be used to jack up the steering knuckle.

Many people have great problems installing stabilizer links, there are problems with the bolts, which is why I initially indicated that new longer bolts would be required. Also, often, due to the design of the levers, the bolts in the lever mount are skewed; a slight distortion is allowed, but if it is too large, you will have to think about something (adjust, add washers, etc.).

Before tightening, all bolts must be lubricated with copper grease, “Litol”, or preferably worked off, this will simplify the disassembly process in the future. After everything is assembled, we check the distances between the control points with a tape measure, as you remember, we first took measurements. If everything matches everywhere, then most likely you won’t even have to do a wheel alignment. We tighten all the bolts and check that nothing is loose anywhere.

Now you can check the operation of the levers in practice. We go out onto the road, preferably where there are fewer cars, and enjoy the work done.

Results: the car responds better to the steering wheel, you can now take turns at a higher speed than before, and overall stability and controllability have improved.

That's all for me, I wish you good luck and see you again.

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