Do-it-yourself engine tuning VAZ 2110 8 valve injector

Many consider the VAZ 2110 car to be simply an excellent product of the domestic automobile industry. For some, this car has become the only opportunity to replace their old Lada with a new vehicle or purchase their first decent car for real money. In 1998, it was a real breakthrough against the background of the then nines. The 2110 looked very confident and had certain technical advantages. The first 1.5 V8 engine turned out to be not the most powerful (73 horses) and carburetor, which did not particularly decorate it even in those distant times. Later, carburetor power units grew into a line of injection engines. The 1.5 came in two incarnations - V8 and V16 and produced 78 and 93 horsepower respectively. There was also a larger 1.6 power unit, also with two versions V8 and V16 with a potential of 81 and 89 horsepower.

As you can see, there was nothing grandiose and nothing excessively bad in the VAZ 2110 engines. A purely manual transmission with a standard five speeds was supplied for each engine and was not highly customizable to the needs of the unit. This did not have a very good effect on the tuning capabilities, so many people changed the box to a more suitable one. True, replacing the gearbox turned out to be one of the most difficult steps in bringing the car to excellent condition. Today we will look at the possibilities of chip tuning the VAZ 2110 engine. This process interests every third owner of the “Ten” and the entire family of these cars. These engines are highly tuning and can provide quite adequate performance without the use of any expensive methods.

Content

Every year, more modern technologies are used in the production of new engines. This moment determines a significant increase in power without loss of resource. The engine that is installed on the VAZ 2110 is significantly inferior to all modern versions. That is why we will consider VAZ 2110 engine tuning, which can significantly increase power or reduce fuel consumption.

Every car owner knows that 20-50 horsepower makes you feel more comfortable on the road, especially when overtaking. Tuning also allows you to significantly increase the maximum speed of the car. Let's look at all the features of how you can change the engine of a light car.

Turbines and compressors - an amazing engine transformation

The VAZ 2110 car is one of the most successful families produced by the AvtoVAZ company. Today, many of these cars continue to ply the roads of Russia, successfully transporting their owners to the right places. But only a few owners truly enjoy this move. The fact is that they installed turbochargers or real sports turbines on a durable and high-quality engine. In addition, we changed the firmware on the computer, obtaining the following results:

the car's power almost doubles, while the engine life remains virtually unchanged;
the turbine greatly changes the sound experience of operating the vehicle, especially at high speeds;
no internal modifications were required, only a few thought about the need to expand the piston system;
the turbine fits almost any car - you just need to correctly create the air injection system;
the engine is surprisingly suitable for using a turbine, it’s surprising that AvtoVAZ didn’t take note of this;
the dynamics of your “Ten” will be simply unrecognizable - it will become a real sports car.

Of course, a high-quality turbine can completely change the perception of a car. In modern European engines, turbochargers and turbines add 100% or more of the engine's power. Of course, this slightly reduces the resource of the unit itself and makes its operation more difficult. However, you will not feel this when using a turbine on a VAZ 2110. The engine is almost eternal, and even if it breaks down it will be very cheap to replace.

What can be changed?

In order to get started, you need to set precise goals. An example would be:

Increased power. In almost 80% of cases, the engine power is increased, which determines the acceleration time from 0 to 100 km/h. Increased power also causes increased traction in low gears.
Some are upgrading the engine in order to reduce fuel consumption. Note that fuel consumption can be reduced without significantly changing the engine design - it is enough to restore its condition and configure it correctly.
You can increase the maximum speed. In some cases, the manufacturer installs a speed limiter that prevents the car from accelerating. An increase in engine size also causes a significant increase in the maximum possible speed.

Sidebar: Important: Changing the engine should also affect other vehicle systems. An example is that fast acceleration can only occur with the correct camber setting, stiff suspension and fairly good brakes. VAZ 2110 engine tuning should be carried out in stages, since mistakes made can ruin the engine.

Engine Machining

A significant modernization can be called mechanical processing of the internal environment of the motor.

There are several principles used when tuning an engine:

1. An increase in the volume of the internal combustion engine leads to more mixture entering the engine. The more mixture, the higher the power. That is why the cylinder block is bored, increasing the time when the valve is open. This kind of work is quite difficult to perform and requires certain skills. 2. You should also take into account the fact that any resistance in the system leads to a drop in power. An example is a situation where the inner side of the cylinders has an irregular shape, the mixture swirls and the piston moves with force - all this causes a decrease in power. That is why another method of increasing the power of a vehicle is to level all surfaces. 3. Other elements of the system can also cause increased resistance to the stroke of the rod and cylinder. An example is the ribbed surface of the exhaust manifold, which determines the occurrence of resistance during the removal of exhaust gases. The gases that are removed from the piston retard the movement of the cylinder block, that is, significant resistance arises, which means the power is reduced. 4. If the mixture is not sufficiently saturated with fuel, the power drops significantly. VAZ 2110 engine tuning may involve installing a modern fuel and oil filter. You can also find other components that are installed on sports cars.

The above points should be taken into account when considering what methods can be used when tuning an engine.

injection gasoline, four-stroke

Engine displacement, cm 3

distributed injection with electronic control

Number and arrangement of cylinders

Maximum power, kW (hp) / rev. min.

Is it worth replacing the unit?

It should be noted that recently, quite often, a new engine is being installed in place of the old one. Some engines may be suitable for the vehicle in question and only minor modifications are required to correct the problem. However, during the work the following problems may arise:

The engine may not fit the transmission.
When installing it, you will have to change the position of some important units: generator, radiator, fuel pump. There is also a high probability that the mount in the engine compartment will not be suitable for the selected engine.
A significant increase in power leads to the need to replace or upgrade other units.
The cost of the work carried out is very high, and the result is quite vague.

The above points determine whether it is necessary to carry out work to completely replace the power unit. As a rule, when doing the work on their own, many mechanics decide to modify an already installed engine. An exception is the case when the motor is in poor condition.

Chip tuning

VAZ 2110 engine tuning may involve changing the firmware of the installed on-board computer. If a car has such a unit, it determines the main technical characteristics. Features of chip tuning include:

It can only be carried out in a specialized center. This is due to the fact that first you need to test the engine, and only after that make a decision about the need to change the program. If the motor is in poor technical condition, then such an upgrade should not be performed, since increasing the load will lead to rapid wear of the structure.
The program is a table with a set of indicators. When the firmware is changed, the table indicators change, and then they are adjusted to specific conditions.
If the manufacturer initially set lower indicators, then you can increase the power by installing a new program by 20%. After completing the procedure, the driver immediately notices the change. Your future depends on your every action. You need to be able to make a choice here and now, otherwise you will miss the future. You are your own judge. Come here and change your https://xn—777-43drb3abi.com/ destiny for the better. Only you can change your future. It all depends on you, prove to yourself that you are worth more than a school teacher or an ordinary office beauty.
To perform the work in question, it is enough to remove several panels in the interior that cover special chips. After this, the computer is connected to the chip via a special cable.

Making a mistake may result in the engine not operating properly. At the same time, such tuning can also be carried out to significantly reduce fuel consumption.

Quite often you can come across the opinion that you can do the work in question yourself. However, it is not. The center often carries out work as follows:

1. The condition of the motor is determined. In some cases, chip tuning will not bring the desired result. 2. The basic parameters are introduced. 3. After entering the parameters, repeated diagnostics are performed. 4. After its values are adjusted, another diagnostic is performed.

All work is performed by a qualified specialist using special equipment. The procedure takes only a few tens of minutes, since connecting and entering data takes just a few minutes. That is why it is recommended to trust the work to real professionals in the field in question.

What is needed to increase the volume to 1.8

So. To assemble a 1.8 engine on a 1.6 base, you must purchase the following parts: 1.
Crankshaft with a stroke of 84 mm.
2.
Connecting rods 129 mm.
3.
Piston pins 19Х59.
4.
Forged pistons STI 218.08 (in this case for a 16-valve engine).
Together with piston rings with a set oil scraper ring, they reduce engine oil consumption to almost zero. Deep counterbores for the valves provide “stick-free” operation in the event of a timing belt break. 5.
Connecting rod bearings for a 41.5 mm journal, standard main bearings.
6.
Retaining rings for piston pins 19 mm.
7.
Piston rings with an oil scraper ring of a stacked design (Male, NPR Europe).
8.
Fuel injectors for Volga (ZMZ Deka, Bosch 107)
9.
Oil piston cooling injectors.
10.
Seals and gaskets. Also (when using, as I did, forged pistons STI-218.08) it is necessary to bore the cylinders to 82.5 mm or 83 mm. In this case, it is necessary to ensure a piston-cylinder gap of 0.06 mm and carry out plate honing (microprofile RkK

After assembly, slowly run it in.
Then we change the fuel injectors (at least with Volgov ones, if they weren’t installed before, like mine) and tune in online. Approximate prices for components: 1.
Crankshaft 84 mm.
— 7000 rub. 2.
Connecting rods 129 mm.
— 7700 rub. 3.
Piston pin 19X59 - 2000 rub.
4.
Connecting rod bearings 41.5 mm.
— 800 rub. 5.
Pistons STI 218.08 - 7200 rub.
6.
Retaining rings 19 mm.
— 300 rub. 7.
Piston rings with set oil scraper - 1600 - 3200 rub.
• Engine configuration: 84-129-82.5-197.1 • Displacement - 1796.13 cc. • RS - 1.54 • Compression ratio - 10.25. I also installed a 128 receiver on my motor - 6000 rubles. The resulting engine pleases with excellent acceleration, efficiency and does not bend the valve when the timing belt breaks (on standard camshafts). The budget for this alteration is approximately 28,000 rubles. for all details, 8000 rub. turnkey work and 3000 rub. ECU setup online. Total 39,000 rub.

Next year, AvtoVAZ “threatens” to surprise us with a 1.8-liter VAZ-21179 conveyor engine, with variable intake tract length and a phase shifter on the intake camshaft. Currently, it is possible to increase the displacement of VAZ engines relatively inexpensively and efficiently from 1.4 to 1.5 (11194) and from 1.6 to 1.7 (21116, 21126). With minor wear on the engine pistons and cylinders, the total rework budget will be 27,000 rubles.

Content

What can be changed?

In order to get started, you need to set precise goals. An example would be:

Increased power. In almost 80% of cases, the engine power is increased, which determines the acceleration time from 0 to 100 km/h. Increased power also causes increased traction in low gears.
Some are upgrading the engine in order to reduce fuel consumption. Note that fuel consumption can be reduced without significantly changing the engine design - it is enough to restore its condition and configure it correctly.
You can increase the maximum speed. In some cases, the manufacturer installs a speed limiter that prevents the car from accelerating. An increase in engine size also causes a significant increase in the maximum possible speed.

The VAZ-2110 family in detail. The fight of opposites - magazine Behind the Wheel

The VAZ-2110 family in detail. Fight of opposites

MODEL HISTORY 1995. Start of production of the VAZ 2110 sedan. Engines - petrol, P4, 8-valve 1.5 l, 51 kW/69 hp. and 53 kW / 72 hp Gearbox - M5, front-wheel drive.

1996–1997 New modifications of the 1.5 liter engine, differing in power and environmental performance. 1998. The production of the VAZ 2111 station wagon has begun. Some cars are equipped with a new 16-valve engine model 2112 - 1.5 l, 69 kW/94 hp. 1999. Production of the 5-door hatchback VAZ 2112.2004 began. Some cars are equipped with new petrol engines VAZ 21114 - P4, 1.6 l, 60 kW/81 hp. (8-cl.) and 21124 - 72 kW/100 hp. (16th grade).

Cars of the “tenth” VAZ family are top sellers, and there is good demand for them in the secondary market.

At the same time, many buyers are wary of them. The opinions of the owners are contradictory: some praise VAZs for their reliability and low cost of maintenance, others dream of getting rid of the crumbling “constructor” almost for nothing. It is beneficial for roadside services to maintain the reputation of a “car kit”: “We will change the parts, but the car will not become better” - what kind of demand are they saying from us!

Let’s figure it out together whether it’s worth buying a used VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112, what to look for when buying and what costs to expect in operation.

From a formal point of view, the “ten” is a completely modern product, no matter what they say about the design, ergonomics and quality of finishing materials. It turned out that even Europeans are ready to turn a blind eye to assembly flaws when they are offered a comfortable and dynamic family car, economical and environmentally friendly, at half the price of a Western classmate. Yes, so far the “tens” do not have ABS or airbags, but not all “foreigners” enter the Russian market with such equipment. Let's be realistic.

Perhaps one of the main trump cards of these cars is low fuel consumption. Six liters per hundred outside the city is by no means a record. Another equally important advantage is maintainability (primarily this applies to 1.5 liter eight-valve engines) and relatively low demands on fuel quality.

Note that both the catalytic converter and the lambda probe work here even longer than on other foreign cars.

But not everyone buys these cars to save money. Quite the opposite: they install “sports firmware”, a “zero” filter, throw out the neutralizer and “ignite” in full. Well, the “ten” is really a good object for tuning. There is something to improve here, especially in terms of handling, and considerable experience has been accumulated in fine-tuning it, including to a full-fledged sports car. Spare parts are much cheaper than for a foreign car, so the cost of a mistake is much lower.

Finally, the third group is “dacha residents”. The VAZ 2111 has no competitors in its price niche. For the “body” in the rear, you can forgive the poor view through the glass of the fifth door, the noisy upholstery, and the gasoline smell in the cabin. Fortunately, it is not that difficult to get rid of - just remove the two-way valve in the gas tank cap (sooner or later it fails on many cars).

Sergey, driving a VAZ 2110, was impressed by the results obtained in Rustem’s Priora and, after his successful performances at local races, brought his car for a consultation.

PART I - “he was molded from what was...«

The car is old, equipped with a VAZ engine with 8 valves and a capacity of 1500 cc. Sergey always wanted to participate in racing and gave the car to local specialists for tuning. As usual, we will not name names - our city is small, everyone already knows each other and there is no interest in “stirring up” any interest. The result of the work of third-party specialists was the following - Sergey spent 60 thousand rubles , they “charged” him with his original 8-valve valve, sewed up a running-in program and sent him to run the car for 4000 km. Sergei patiently ran the engine in, then the program was sent to him online and he set off to conquer the podiums of auto racing. But things didn’t work out with the podiums - the engine was rather rotten and drove frankly poorly. As Sergey said, it was easily driven around by a stock two-wheeler with a VAZ 21124 serial engine (1.6 l, 16 cl). To begin with, I suggested that Sergei take down the VSKh schedule in order to visually evaluate the work of his colleagues. Unfortunately, the engine graph was not preserved ( upd - after a long time of writing the report and digging in the archives, the graphs were finally found - read below!). From memory, they measured about 110 hp. and about 13-14 kg of torque - with such indicators it was useless to go to competitions.

What was done for these 60 thousand rubles? The specialists installed a crankshaft with a stroke of 78 mm, bored the cylinders by 84 mm for cast pistons on a 2110 connecting rod, installed a Stolnikovsky camshaft with a lift of 10.5 mm and a phase of 300 degrees, and a Stinger intake receiver. Also, the 18th row was installed in the box with the main pair 4.1 (without blocking!!) and... EVERYTHING . But what about the modification of the head, because on an 8-valve valve it plays a decisive role, but what about the insertion of oil nozzles, and the lightweight connecting rods - WHERE is all this??! Questions hung in the air.

Sergey was disappointed with the schedule and results of the tuning - he was counting on completely different indicators. It was decided to remove the engine and do it all over again. Sergey gave carte blanche for any modifications, including the installation of a 16-valve valve. The main condition was to preserve the receiver and prohibit the installation of turbos and throttles - the car had to remain in the “light tuning” class at the races.

First, let's analyze the engine assembled by our colleagues and see what was done for 60 thousand rubles and why such modest figures were achieved - only 107 horsepower. After all, we already had 8 valves with a Stinger receiver and we got 127-130 horsepower from them on a heavy ShPG and even 169 hp. on a sandwich 1.8 engine. We dismantle the engine ( its mileage is only 5000 km after tuning with colleagues ), and begin to disassemble it. We remove the receiver and look into the channels - they are standard, without boring. The factory valve bushings (cast iron) are visible. The factory valves are also visible, without any relief. In general, everything is already clear - without modifying the head on an 8-valve valve, nothing worthwhile can be achieved, this is an axiom that has been proven many times. Whatever shafts and receivers you install, the head will choke the engine. Pay attention to the burnt-out gasket and the blackness near the exhaust channel - they installed cheap paronite gaskets here and spared money on a steel metal package.

The Stolnikovsky shaft looks beautiful, the cam is wide, well welded, without pitting. But the phase beyond 300 degrees (sorry, I forgot the exact parameters of this shaft, and I’m not interested in this part) is completely unnecessary for this motor, the head is strangling this shaft and it simply does not move. But the idle speed is almost 1300 rpm, with a loud whirring noise, everything is exactly the way the boys in the neighborhood like it. May the adherents of Stolnikov’s iron forgive me.

Nobody even thought about grinding the intake receiver along its planes (in his reports, the author showed the need to grind the planes of welded receivers many times). They installed it as it was, with curved planes after welding.

As mentioned above, my colleagues did not bother with the head - the channels and combustion chambers were not touched. The chambers on the one and a half eight-valve head choke the engine worse than unfinished channels - the valves sit in the pits. The gasket is paronite, between cylinders 2 and 3 it is already tired.

But the worst situation is with the cylinder block. It should be noted that the car withstood only 2 measurements of the VSH schedule; on the third, the engine choked, stalled and started smoking. There are extensive scuffs in the cylinders, the wear of the honing is uneven - spotty (which indicates the use of a diamond hone or bringing the cylinders to the desired roughness with sandpaper wound on the honing head). But how did the scuffs form after 5000 km!? Didn't they cut the piston cooling nozzles into the block? Oh yes, they are not there... In the third photo, in the first cylinder, scuff marks are clearly visible where they should not be there at all - on the side of the piston!

Remove the engine sump. Pay attention to the connecting rods - they are 2110, but not lightweight at all . The entire increase in volume came down to the installation of heavy cast pistons with a displacement of the pin axis... The flywheel was also left untouched. We remove the oil receiver and leave the sediment - instead of replacing the old shriveled rubber seal with a new one, they simply smeared it with sealant...

The basket bolts had to be cut with a grinder and cut off with a chisel - their heads were twisted when tightened!! Was it really impossible to replace the bolts with new ones, as it should be? But a complete blast was waiting for us ahead... We removed the crankshaft with a stroke of 78 mm and saw the persistent half rings... Oooh, this is the first time the author has seen this in years. Colleagues not only left the OLD half rings without replacing them with new ones, not only did they put a half ring pressed from powder on the most loaded side, instead of replacing it with a new half ring made of a normal copper-steel strip, they CAPED the second aluminum half-ring to compensate for axial clearance... “Blood flowed from my eyes” (c).

The box was also disassembled. The 18th row was found there, in good condition, but with tired synchros. And the fatigue of the synchronizers was explained simply - colleagues did not adjust the clutch cable (the pedal was in the floor), it did not disengage and the rider literally killed the box. 4.1 pair, 3.9 pair was found in the box (although the client assured that he himself had brought a 4.1 pair for gearbox assembly). It’s unclear why they didn’t replace the free diff with a locking one - in racing, this risks wasting time due to wheel slip.

The client was invited to look at the engine and was shown everything that was described above. Sergei just sighed sadly: “These are the people we got caught.”

As the article was being written, the graphs were lost in the archive and it was not possible to find them right away (the author does not like to be unfounded and the graphs were important to support the results of engine troubleshooting). But they were found and you can appreciate them in all their glory.

Measurement of VSH - VAZ 2110, 8 cells, assembled by colleagues

Peak power (red line) - 110 hp. at 6500 rpm, maximum torque (blue line) - 14.2 kg at 4200 rpm.

Weak indicators, more typical for a volume of 1.4 - 1.5 liters. The lack of torque will not allow this car to show anything decent in races (except in a race with a supermarket cart). The receiver did not help the motor realize its potential, because... the head was not properly finished. The “Stolnik” camshaft with wide phases and large overlap is also to blame for the catastrophic lack of torque.

But the power graph continued to stretch higher and there was hope that there was still something there. We decided to continue measurements, moving the upper cutoff. The second measurement (dotted line) turned out to be worse in terms of results than the first - the motor is unstable and the characteristics “floated”!

But the third freeze was catastrophic - its engine could not stand it. A shot was heard in the muffler, the engine began to smoke heavily with blue smoke, and the result was a graph that can be seen below. A pitiful 68 horsepower ... They didn’t figure out what happened to the engine, perhaps the pistons (or their rings) were stuck. Anyway, the engine had to be removed. Let me remind you that the engine mileage was only about 4-5 thousand km...

At the end of the first part, I suggest you watch the video filmed during the disassembly and troubleshooting of the engine:

PART II - “no replacement for displacement” - an old American proverb

And these Americans are damn right. There is no substitute for volume! What good can you make out of a one and a half block? Fashion 1600 out of it? Funny. Moreover, the block has already been bored to 84 mm and the further path is either replacing the block or lining. Sergei thought for a long time about the evil eight-valve sandwich, but the author suggested making a sandwich, only with 16 valves . A priori, its power will be higher, and the performance of the two-shaft head will be no match for a sawn-off 8-valve head. Based on the results, of course, I wanted to surpass Rustem’s Priora and decided to build the maximum possible volume by increasing the height of the cylinder block. We already had a donor for cutting the slab - another one and a half block with damaged cylinders.

In the sensitive matters of piston manufacturing, it is better to work directly with the manufacturer. Dmitry Zakiev from the STI helped us with forged pistons . They decided to use the longest stroke crankshaft available at that time, with a stroke of 86 mm , double oblique drilling and a full journal. We bought H-shaped connecting rods, for a 19 mm , 146.25 mm ! The RS ratio turned out to be 1.70 - the motor should be quite torquey. Of course, long stroke and torsion are incompatible things. But we don’t risk boring a VAZ block larger than 84 mm, and there were no other options for increasing the volume other than increasing the stroke. All the hardware for the motorcycle kit cost us 43 thousand rubles . The engine capacity was 1906 cubic meters .

Making a block is one big problem. If you choose the wrong technology, you can ruin the entire work and there is no room for error. The technology tested on the 8-valve bottler was improved taking into account previous experience. Only flat grinding was used to process the mating surfaces. After connecting the plate to the main block, the cylinders are lined using a special technology with thin sleeves and bored to 84 mm . Then the cylinders were plate-honed . Of course, we installed piston cooling nozzles. In the photo below you can see how thick the slab is - there are concerns that the hood simply won’t close due to the increased height of the engine (it was planned to use a 128 receiver). This also creates a lot of problems when installing the exhaust.

The crankshaft looks well made and even the roughness of the journals does not require polishing, we leave it as is. The motorcycle kit is also shown - pistons, connecting rods. Priorovsky connecting rod - for comparison. Its weight is slightly lower than that of the STI H-shaped connecting rod. A big advantage of the STI connecting rods is the use of a standard connecting rod bearing, which is wider than the Prior one. In this case, the connecting rod is centered along the piston.

When assembling the engine, a cylinder block reinforcement plate was used and it was mounted not on liquid M6 studs, as many do, but on stronger M8 studs. The worn flywheel was replaced with a new one, and a new LUK . All hardware for the flywheel and clutch are new.

The cylinder head was used from Priora, in good condition. The channels were bored and polished by hand and the result of the work is not embarrassing to show in the photo. The valves were installed, enlarged to 32x27 mm , from Audi. The valves were further lightened on a CNC machine. The valve springs were replaced with Opel ones, using duralumin plates of our own production. The chamfers of the saddles were processed on a specialized machine.

We searched and selected camshafts for a long time. I wanted to deliver something exclusive and get an equally exclusive result. There was no desire to install the shafts on solid pushers and have the hassle of adjusting the gap. Nuzhdin found a couple of new shafts for hydraulic pushers. Rise 11.06 mm with phase 330\326 degrees . Usually the author does not use such wide shafts, but here it was thought that the engine size would pump this phase and provide good torque... Unfortunately, the choice of these shafts was a key mistake, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves. About 18 thousand rubles were paid for the shafts. The cams are welded and should work well on stiff springs. The square fist promised good filling...

The engine was assembled in the engine compartment with a head, the timing drive was assembled, which required a longer belt, the camshaft overlaps were adjusted, all that was left to do was to make an intake/exhaust, redo the wiring. The main problem stemming from the old age of the car is the ancient brain. The car had January 5.1.1 - 71 ... Those who understand are already smiling, and the author will explain to the rest - this poor controller only works with simultaneous injection, does not support the phase sensor and oxygen sensor and its maximum speed - about 6000 rpm , the processor simply will not handle processing further data... And if you change the controller to something else, you need to replace the braid of wires. The chip engineer who writes software for our engines was categorical - the brain needs to be changed. To replace the entire braid, you need to gut the entire front panel, so the author took a different route - the wiring was recrossed for January 5.1 - 41 . The missing wires were added, the injector control was separated into separate wires, new wires were added for the missing phase sensor and lambda. A phase sensor is needed for phased injection - we have 328 cc injectors installed (similar ones were used in the turbo project) and at idle we need phased injection to prevent fuel overflow and over-enrichment of the mixture. The phase sensor was introduced only because of this; in all other cases, pair-parallel injection would have been enough for us. An oxygen sensor is needed to read the mixture. The work is extremely tedious due to the tightness of the pedal assembly - new wires had to be pulled inside the harness, stripping its insulation, and added to the ECU block - by putting your hands behind the gas pedal, the tail of the wiring inside the cabin was so short. It should be noted that all connections were soldered with solder, and the wires were carefully laid in corrugations. Thus, almost all the engine compartment wiring was meticulously repaired. The ignition module remained 8-valve, with 4 pins, high-voltage wires from the VAZ 2112 were used.

We paid attention to the generator. In an old car, you need to open every component - this is the only way to ensure reliability. The author almost failed - the bearings had long since dried out, and the slip rings had worn through almost completely. All this was replaced with a new one, and the highlight of the program was installed - a freewheel from Mercedes . The diameter of the coupling is larger than that of the VAZ pulley, which reduces the load on the generator. In addition, the overrunning clutch decouples the rotor and belt, allowing the more inertial rotor to overtake the belt (as the belt speed decreases), which has a beneficial effect on the life of the belt and generator.

The exhaust was completely built on a 63 pipe , components from Stinger were used, the final can was U-Power (Moscow) , a similar one was used on the turbo project. A 128 receiver was chosen as the intake receiver . The intake flange was welded to fit the Volgov throttle. The idle speed control is homemade, remote.

Usually in such projects they show only the final result, omitting the series of pains with settings and “catching bugs”. The author will tell the full story. The engine, of course, started right away, they filled in the run-in program and sent the client for a ride for the initial running-in of the parts. Idling speed is 1500 rpm , the engine is jerky... The car left the pit in March 2015 . Construction of the engine took about two months, starting in December 2014... None of my colleagues believed in the sandwich - their own experiments ended unsuccessfully, the engines did not travel even several thousand km, then died for one reason or another. The chip guy also expressed the idea that the VAZ head (sawed) would not be enough to pump such a volume and at 9-10 thousand the engine would simply not have enough air and it would suffocate. It is not difficult for those who have seen heads on foreign cars to agree with this idea - Ford, Alfa Romeo have completely different diameters of channels, seats and valves, even in stock, without any washing. But above certain diameters, the VAZ head simply cannot be cut - the water jacket will not allow it. Zakiev even expressed the idea that such a crankshaft cannot be turned more than 7-8 thousand rpm. Of course, I didn’t want to spend so much money and get a one-day motor. The maximum speed was not paramount - whether it was 8 thousand, 10 or 15 thousand revolutions, the torque and power graph was more important. It was even more important to have time to film this schedule at all!!

In essence, the engine was experimental (the client was immediately warned about everything and went to this experiment voluntarily, being mentally prepared, including for complete Stalingrad at any moment ) and statistics were collected “as the battle progressed” - we did not know what would fail and how much this will be serious and fixable. Let me remind you that most of the components of this car are designed for a completely different torque, and with a significant increase in engine volume, and as a result, torque, previously trouble-free components begin to break, as was the case on the 8-valve engine, which devoured the teeth of the main pair in Checkpoint.

PART III - the battle for reliability

The first problem arose in May. By that time, the engine had traveled about 2-3 thousand kilometers, the running-in was completed and it was necessary to “push it to the fullest” when unsubscribing the program. The first acceleration under load to 8500 rpm showed that the engine was still in traction and it was necessary to move the cutoff further. The cutoff was pushed back to 10 thousand rpm and the engine “died” at the second acceleration at about 9500 rpm - the compression silently disappeared. The car was dragged on a rope to the repair area and left “in our care.” The head was removed. We discovered two problems - the Opel springs could not cope with such a knuckle profile, the valves froze. The exhaust valves were hit the hardest, and compression disappeared because of them. But with the intake valves everything was more interesting - they did not hit the blocks and at some point the intake valve touched the edge of the block, although the valve itself did not bend. The point here is that when the plate and block are “married”, it is impossible to perfectly align the axes of the cylinders and the pistons after the liner are displaced relative to the head in one direction (the factory does not make identical blocks - the displacement of the plate cylinders relative to the cylinders of the main block when aligned along the holes the bolts reached millimeters!). So the counters also shifted, and STI makes them very small. And all this happened only at very high speeds - according to the filling schedule, about 9300-9500 rpm . Before that, everything was fine... Catching fleas began - Nuzhdin Sr. advised installing stiffer springs or switching to solid springs, Nuzhdin Jr. was perplexed why we were even turning the engine at such speeds (should we set a cutoff and cut it off right in the thrust?). As a result, the valves were replaced, the valves were slightly enlarged (modified) without removing the pistons directly in the block, the springs were further tightened, removing almost the entire free play reserve, and the engine was started again. The sandwich happily started working as if nothing had happened. In the photo, pay attention to the honing of the cylinder - there are no scuffs, thanks to the special modification of the pistons. But the hon is slowly being rubbed off by a stain, the load is great. It was the same on the 8 valve bottle. The camshafts themselves worked without wear, but the hydraulics were already dying - the profile for them is very bad. There are signs of wear on the working surface. Almost half of the hydraulic guides had to be replaced.

I also didn’t like the work of the hydraulics - the camshafts were too angry and put a lot of stress on the hydraulics - they did not have enough hydraulic compensator area. Nuzhdin mentioned that the profile was taken from Opel with processing, but Opel uses larger diameter pushers than VAZ.

After the work was done, the engine was started, the program was successfully rolled back, the engine lost filling after 8500-9000 rpm and there was no point in turning it above 9500. As the chipmaker predicted, the long-stroke motor was choking itself and could not fill up and spin up more than 10 thousand revolutions. Graphs were taken (more on this later), conclusions were drawn, and the material was shelved until the fall of 2015. And it was shelved because the client could not get results at local races - the engine turned out to be very top-notch, it started running at 5000 rpm and it was simply impossible to implement it on R14 wheels with mediocre Taiwanese tires. Through the “caring” second hands, grins were heard - “the butcher grinds and burns rubber,” this was a shame, because the driver’s inability to implement the engine on the road does not mean that the engine turned out to be “bad and ineffective.” If, instead of accelerating, the car sits and blows tire smoke, the result is predictable - a loss.

Then we encountered a series of fateful events. In July 2015, the engine bent the valves again, this time turning a key on the crankshaft. This is all from the words of a client who called from the service center - the technician there asked “how to set marks on the pulleys?” With the words - “Who are you and why are you getting into my engine?”, the unknown master was sent through the forest and the client was told - either I service the engine, or he, too, goes through the forest along with the car. The car was dragged on a rope. By that time, the master had changed the key and tightened the main pulley. This was a key mistake, because... the problem was not in the key (as it turned out later)! But the intervention of outsiders blurred the picture of the defect, the cause was not established and only the bent valves had to be replaced. At the same time, RS hydraulics were installed to narrow the phase, because the client complained about non-moving shafts . In addition to non-running shafts, the car could boast of oak brakes - the vacuum brake simply did not work due to the wide phase of the camshafts. Along the way, graphs were taken from the motor on RS hydraulics.

Buter came to life like a Phoenix bird, but not for long. A week later I called and there was no compression again! This time the car was brought directly to the creator of the engine, that is, to the author. As it turned out, after local rides, the engine stalled and would not start again. This time it was possible to establish the cause of the breakdown, which last time the left master did not even think to determine. The crankshaft main bolt came loose and loosened (I checked its tightening myself last time with a one and a half meter pipe!), a key flew out, the timing belt lost synchronization and the valve was killed. But why didn’t anything like this happen in May or April? This time the reason was found and eliminated completely (in order not to make life easier for competitors, we will leave the details behind the scenes - and they are very unusual)! The client turned out to be lucky - one valve just broke off this time, but the cap did not damage either the piston or the head ! Buter did not want to die and turned out to be a tenacious beast, rising every time from the ashes, like a Phoenix bird... Until now, the block had not been opened and worked as if nothing had happened, the box was intact, the drive and wheels too! The valves were replaced again, but at the end of the season they decided to try replacing the “non-running shafts” with something else. The fact is that experiments with RS hydraulics have shown that these shafts improve performance when the overlap increases to 5 mm , but then there are not enough counters in the pistons... But the torque does not increase up to 5000 rpm, no matter what you do. A valve failure without any Stalingrad was a sign - the motor was not opened, the result was not obtained, you need to try something else!!

And instead of the brutal Nuzhdin 11.06 mm ( 330\326 deg ) shafts, made from special blanks purchased for crazy money, we installed cheap regrinding, Nuzhdin 8.85 mm with a phase of 273 degrees on a flat hydraulic shaft, made from serial shafts with additional whitening... The price of these shafts is approximately 2.5 times less than the sports ones, made from special preparation... Initially, these shafts were not purchased for Butera. The author brought them for another person, and in two sets, but that person immediately backed out when he found out that they were regrinds and required thrust bearings (he wanted shafts from special blanks). As a result, other shafts were sent to him, and these 8.85 remained hanging on the balance sheet as a dead weight. Although the cam seemed to promise good filling, the top was a bit dull. There was no other option at that time, and it was urgent to assemble the engine. So they installed it.

We set up “children’s” ceilings of 2.5\2.0 mm . We didn’t expect anything good, the chipmaker was also skeptical - “you need shafts with a wide phase to fill the volume, such a motor will not run on these vegetable shafts at all”... But this time Quasar’s instincts did not let him down... How many times has the author been convinced of that shafts with phases “ over 300 ” are rubbish... AND THE BUTTER GOES!!! However, read about the results below, in the section with analysis of the VSH graphs!

PART IV - VSKh graphics, 1.9 l - Nuzhdin shafts 11.06 mm (330\326 deg)

Let's begin a sequential analysis of the graphs of the assembled sandwich engine.

The first measurements gave the following picture:

Max. power - 194 hp. at 7600 rpm , peak torque 19.4 kg at 6400 rpm .

In fact, this engine started to move after 5000 rpm , with only 16.1 kg of torque, and died out at about 8500-9000 rpm. The torque range (shelf) is narrow, the power also fades quickly. Cheerful sinusoids up to 3500 rpm - air walking back and forth along the intake tract, there is no filling there and the engine does not move at full throttle. You can move around at low throttle. The schedule is not very good - the tops quickly dry out and the sandwich chokes from lack of air, trying in vain to pump it through the narrow neck of the VAZ head, which cannot be cut so that the engine can breathe deeply. It turns out to be a vicious circle - the shafts give rise and phase, which cuts torque at low and medium speeds, but a large engine, like an asthmatic, still suffocates from lack of air at high speeds! RPMs above 10,000 are unattainable for this atmospheric engine (let me remind you that the option of throttles and nitrous is not considered here).

Hmm, these were not the results we dreamed of when building the engine! And what about Rustem’s notorious Priora, the latest version of the schedule of which Rustem himself called the most “sweeping option” of all the engines that he had? Let's superimpose two graphs and compare! The dotted line is our Buter 1.9 liter and the bold lines are the 1.7 Rustem engine with 10.5 mm shafts and a phase of 280 degrees. In terms of torque up to 6000 rpm, Buter loses 1.5-4 kg of torque! The tops are like identical twins. Invest so much money and get a copy of Rustemov's engine? Here you go! Of course, Buter will drive worse, because the torque of up to 6000 rpm is merged by wide camshafts with a monstrous phase... And the top is choked by the head itself, which for such a volume of Buter does not have enough channel cross-sections or the diameter of the seats and valves. It turns out to be a vicious circle. The upper classes cannot, the lower classes do not want...

After the second bend of the valves, it was decided to try to reduce the valve overlap from 3.5\3.0 mm to 2.2\1.8 mm , without changing the rest of the configuration. The shafts still remained with a lift of 11.06 mm and a wide phase, but RS pushers were added. In this way they hoped to narrow the phase and gain lost torque. The result was simply depressing! 163 hp when measured. and 15.8 kg of torque ! Chickens laugh!! The author didn’t even bother to drive out onto the road—it was already clear from the schedule that the engine was literally not moving . The only positive difference can be considered the fact that the “sine wave” at low speeds disappeared and the torque leveled out. Here not only the chickens, but also the slippers laughed, because at 2000 rpm the driver has access to a torque of as much as 9 (NINE) kilograms... In a race with a shopping cart, this would be a significant help.

The last option left, before replacing the shafts, was to check what the shafts could do on larger floors. The shafts opened even more than before. Further increasing the overlap was already risky - there might not be enough trusses. All that was able to be pulled out of the engine was 206 hp. at 7900 rpm and 19.8 kg of torque at 6500 rpm . The torque, like a charm, did not want to cross the 20 kilogram mark...

Let's compare the result with the original 194-horsepower schedule. With spherical pushers, the engine did not become any worse. There is still little torque, but there is a strange increase of +0.9 kg of torque in the 3500-5000 rpm zone. At the top, everything is much better - the engine breathed more freely and at 8000 rpm it immediately added 20.4 hp. relative to the previous option. If you look at the graph above, you will notice that at 8000 rpm the power is 204 hp. , and at 9000 rpm the power is still at 199 hp. , but the moment from 8000 is already falling. Thus, increasing the overlap of the shafts gave about 20 forces at the top and increased the range of operation of the engine. However, the 10,000 mark for this long-stroke booster is still unattainable and it continues to suffocate from lack of air at high speeds.

The client managed to drive this version a little and noted an improvement in power characteristics at high speeds, when the third failure occurred with the valves bent and the decision was made to change the shafts. Not only the client, who stoically accepted all the troubles, was tired of a series of breakdowns (although he suggested once again assembling the motor on these shafts, eliminating only the reason for the loosening of the main bolt), but also the author - the booter turned out to be not only a capricious motor with a wayward character, but also the resulting the result was unsatisfactory, something needed to be changed in the configuration. And this “something” became the shafts. 8.85 mm vegetable rollers with a phase of 273 degrees .

PART V - VSKh graphics, 1.9 l - Nuzhdin shafts 8.85 mm (273 deg)

Even without seeing the graph, just hearing the sound of the engine during the measurement, the author was already smiling - “this is it, what everyone was waiting for, this is the result!” The character of the engine has changed dramatically! Where are all those sine waves and jerks of torque, where are the crazy peaks and troughs? Instead, there is a wonderful engine with a wide torque shelf, ready to provide from 17.6 kg of torque at 2000 rpm to 19.2 kg at 7000 rpm! Maximum power 189 hp at 6700 rpm , maximum torque 21.7 kg at 5900 rpm .

The result was a completely logical tractor. It is now useless for Rustemov’s engine to compete with the booter - the tractor will simply drive away on torque, having almost the same maximum power, compare the graphs below! In a moment, the 1.9 (dotted line) exceeds the 1.7 by 3-5 kilograms !

Let's compare two ideologies - a motor with sport shafts and wide phases of 330\326 degrees (in the latest, most powerful iteration of 206 hp) and the same motor on the same program, with narrower and vegetable shafts, with a phase of 273 degrees and less valve lift, dotted graphs. The difference in torque is simply monstrous. And I personally like the option with a higher torque more, although the engine has lost the power peak that it had before!

PART VI - Conclusion

How is the resurrected sandwich going? The jerking has disappeared, the engine has become smooth, the idle speed can be reduced to 1100-1200, the car is pleasant to start and move around. The car began to drive throughout the entire operating speed range. The brakes have appeared! More precisely, after narrowing the phases on the camshafts, the vacuum pump began to work normally again. I believe that more power can be obtained by using shafts with greater valve lift, but without phase expansion. However, the client was satisfied with everything anyway; he had to see his beaming and satisfied face a few days later - finally, “ the waves were moving ” and the result could be published! The author was once again convinced that the simple laws of camshafts, tested long ago on 8 valves, also work on 16 valves. And the wide phase is a path to nowhere, torque falls into it like a black hole, and finding the optimal parameters is difficult work that camshaft manufacturers are not interested in doing, churning out endless lines of camshafts in which installers have to rummage through like a dog in a trash bin heap in search of a tasty piece... But for many tuners, the lack of tools in the form of the ability to remove and compare graphs, this digging in a heap of garbage turns into a useless search for a dog with an amputated nose.

Well, the last answer to the silent question - was it worth making the sandwich 8 valves or 16 valves? Let's compare the sandwich 1.8 liter carburetor engine from back in 2012, which has become history, and the current 1.9 liter 16 valve engine (dotted line on the graph). Everyone will give the answer to this question for themselves.

In conclusion, it is worth noting the high complexity of the project, both in terms of technology and motor construction. Valuable information was obtained on the interrelationships of various components within one engine, the limiting factors for increasing power and maximum speed for a large VAZ engine (in the naturally aspirated version) were investigated and studied, where the limiting factor is not the camshafts, but the cylinder head itself, which prevents the increase filling at high speeds (let me remind you that turbo, throttle and nitrous oxide were unacceptable, based on the client’s technical specifications).

The motor has currently been working for more than six months, and is still (as of September 2015) in working and serviceable condition, despite any incidents.

Article written: September 12, 2015 Author of the article, photo-video materials: © Quasar Prohibited without the written permission of the author: reprint of the article in whole or in part, reprint and use of photo-video materials, as well as their modification and editing for the purpose of further publication on third parties sites.

Engine Machining

A significant modernization can be called mechanical processing of the internal environment of the motor.

There are several principles used when tuning an engine:

Tuning (boosting) VAZ engines | CHIPTUNER.RU

Tuning (boosting) VAZ engines

When compiling the material, photographic materials were used from the Internet resources Injector-VAZ, SVR Conversions, Team-RS, Dvigateli-VAZ.ru, MotoProm, Kartuning, OKB "Dynamics" and many others.

Some materials may be duplicated with the main content of the site. This is a very popular article. It, with bills (but mostly without), was stolen and posted on a good dozen “tuning” sites and in the automotive press of the state of Ukraine. (I’m even somewhat flattered that so many people steal from me - it means there is something. In this regard, I allow free reprinting without reference to the original source for all representatives of sexual minorities of the passive type).

You judge the quality, “which two words themselves cannot connect about what is offered to people for a lot of money. People, be careful! :

Meager numbers of the roller stand.

How many horses can you squeeze out of an 8-cl. serial engine 21083. Tests on a roller stand of a VAZ 2108 car - 10/17/2002 conducted with the participation of Uncle Sam.

Engine 1.6, camshaft and cylinder head cross
Sports receiver, 52 mm DZ, zero resistance filter, free exhaust
Without a flow meter, additional corrections for atmospheric pressure and temp. air.
Oxygen sensor. DPKV - on the flywheel. Rev limiter – 8500
Standard gearbox

What happened (data on VSKh from the videos). Maximum power 126hp at 7400rpm and speed 206km/h. Naturally, without taking into account Cx, because there is no wind on roller skates :).

Then the serial injectors simply refused to work (the linear range ended).

VSKh standard engine 2112

Increase in working volume

The most common option for increasing the working volume to 1600 cc. cm is to increase the piston stroke to 74.8 mm (standard - 71 mm) by replacing the crankshaft and pistons. There are several options here

a) “Forged” pistons, common sizes 82.0, 82.4, 82.5 84.0 mm of various classes. “Forged” pistons come in both regular and T-shaped shapes. The latter are much lighter in weight. b) Standard pistons that have undergone special mechanical modification. c) Using pistons 21213 with mechanical modification and replacement of connecting rods for a “floating” piston pin.

In addition to the most common crankshaft with a piston stroke of 74.8 mm, there are also CVs with a piston stroke of 75.6 (standard from 1.6) 78, 79, 80 and even 84 mm. By using these crankshafts, volumes from 1580 to 1862 cc can be obtained. cm, and almost all configurations can be accommodated in a block of standard height. In this case, naturally, the “torque” of the engine suffers due to non-optimal R/S.

The crankshafts themselves are produced in three “weight categories” - light, medium and heavy, from different blanks - 2112, 11183, etc.

In production VAZ cars with a volume of 1.6 liters. a crankshaft of 75.6, 1.5 liters is used. – 71 mm.

Article from the magazine "Tuning": A. Pakhomov. "About Pistons"

Owners of 16-cl. engines (for whom money does not matter, they can avoid this hemorrhoids and purchase a VAZ 21128 with a volume of 1.8 liters (100 hp, 160 Nm) or a volume of 2.0 liters and a power of 118 hp.

In the 21128 engine, the weight of the crank mechanism is reduced by 190 g, a “high” block is used (1.9 mm higher), an original crankshaft, connecting rods 129 mm long, and lightweight pistons. According to the manufacturers, this modification does not bend the valves when the timing belt breaks.

For 8V, a new engine 21084 with a volume of 1.6 liters is produced at the same OPP. 21084 is available for OPP only in a carburetor version.

Specifications	21203	21128	21084
Cylinder diameter, mm	82	82,5	82
Piston stroke, mm	94	74,8
Working volume, cm³	1980	1580

Modification of the VAZ 2111 engine 8 valves injector

How to increase the power of a VAZ-2114 8 valve engine: photo, video

It's no secret that in its standard, that is, in serial form, the engine does not develop all the power it is capable of. You can configure the firmware in a new way, but you won’t be able to significantly change the load curve without reducing the environmental class. You can buy a "racing camshaft" to install in place of the stock one. But then the firmware will have to be changed to accommodate the new phases... Let's consider what happens if we use only accessible tuning methods. Let's say right away that on the VAZ-2114 hatchback the increase in power can be 20% or even 25%, and we are talking about only 8 valves. There is no need to bore the valve channels.

Let's leave illusions in the past, and for this we watch one video.

An example of increasing the power of a VAZ-2114 engine

During the tuning, the 2111 (1.5 l) engine was modified.

List of works:

Boring of seats along the internal diameter, which is equivalent to enlarging the valve;
Valve seats, VAZ 2111 engine
The channel necks also had to be bored out a little. Thin duralumin plates were installed, which allowed the springs to be loosened by 1.5 mm;
The standard valves were replaced with lightweight ones;
The guide bushings were machined from special brass;
New cylinder head elements
A split gear appeared in the design;
Tuning timing gear
The valve cotters were replaced with imported ones just in case;
A shaft with “narrow phases” was installed: exhaust – 66 degrees, intake – 70, opening angles – 246 and 250 degrees, respectively. Valve travel is 9.5 and 9.6 mm.

Our new engine remains “not plug-in” - the valves do not reach the pistons. When tested on a bench (the sensors were turned off), the result was not impressive.

Checking without adjusting the ECU

If you install the engineering firmware, you can select the parameters “from start to finish.” And then the picture looks better...

Torque graph after tuning is completed

All sensors, including the lambda probe, were connected in the latter case. We managed to get 96 “forces” at 5300 rpm!

How not to increase power!

Do not attempt to bore channels. This operation can be performed in the absence of ball cutters, but in garage conditions nothing will work even with cutters. The bottom line is that the accuracy of the cutter installation is important - the error should not exceed 1-2 microns.
As you can see, on the stock VAZ-2114 hatchback the increase in power was 24%, and this is without installing a “chandelier”, “improved exhaust” and other expensive elements.
There is no point in buying a “racing camshaft” without having the appropriate tuning firmware.

What to do with engine 11183?

It is clear that a mandatory step in tuning the 11183 engine will be replacing the ECU. It’s simple: the standard M74 block cannot be flashed, but “January 7.2” is a good and time-tested solution. You will also have to abandon the “E-Gas” option, which means replacing the throttle assembly and receiver.

Everything I had to throw away

The intake tract parts were borrowed from the 2111 engine. A cable pedal was installed, and the engine began to look human.

Down with E-Gas!

Everything works well with the “January” controller, but standard firmware is not an option if the camshaft has been replaced. And it, in turn, has the following parameters:

Release phase width – 104;
Intake phase width – 109;
Opening angle at the outlet – 272;
Inlet opening angle – 268;
Valve travel (exhaust/intake) – 9.5/10.1 mm.

After installing the new shaft, the motor became plug-in. However, on the 2114 hatchback, increasing power almost always comes with a compromise. In this case, we had to sacrifice reliability. What's improved:

Maximum torque increased by 14 N*m;
The power also increased – the limit of “90 horsepower” was passed.

By the way, any tuning leads to a decrease in durability. Make a choice.

Method for increasing the power of an 8 valve engine with a split gear

The split, that is, adjustable gear was not used in the last project. It is better to install it on “non-plug-in motors”. Setting method:

The moving and fixed parts are marked with a mark, the same as on a standard pulley;
Installation is carried out in the usual manner, aligning the crankshaft and timing mechanism according to the marks (as when replacing a belt), you should also remember about the correct tightening torque of the belt;
If in the 4th cylinder the intake and exhaust valves are not open “to the maximum”, we carry out an adjustment: loosen the outer screws, and, holding the outer part of the gear, set the camshaft correctly. Tighten the fixing screws.
Split gear with retaining screws removed

Tuning parts, popular and not so popular

We have arranged all the elements in order of increasing uselessness:

Receiver with increased volume. After replacing the standard unit, there is an increase in output at medium and high speeds. But for the region of 1000-2500 rpm, it would be preferable to have a standard receiver.
Receiver with increased volume (shorter path)
“Chandelier”, that is, a zero filter. Having such a filter for an engine is useful, but operation is fraught with difficulties: the fabric must be cleaned every 5-7 thousand km, and this requires “proprietary chemicals”.
Filter chandelier
Throttle assembly with increased diameter (52 or 54 mm). It is difficult to imagine a situation in which an 8-valve engine would not have enough air coming from the standard unit (d=46 mm).
Tuning throttle assembly

As for the exhaust tract, you can install a “4-2-1 spider” - it creates a vacuum in front of the valve that is not yet open... Torque and power are improved from this, the question is by how much.

Any “tuning” begins not with the engine, but with the selection of “gear ratios”... This advice is common, and it also applies to the VAZ-2108 and 2114 families.

Video with an example of installing a turbine to increase power on a VAZ-2114

carfrance.ru

engine tuning | Encyclopedia of tuning and modifications for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112

motorsmarine.ru

Is it worth replacing the unit?

The engine may not fit the transmission.
When installing it, you will have to change the position of some important units: generator, radiator, fuel pump. There is also a high probability that the mount in the engine compartment will not be suitable for the selected engine.
A significant increase in power leads to the need to replace or upgrade other units.
The cost of the work carried out is very high, and the result is quite vague.

Chip tuning

It can only be carried out in a specialized center. This is due to the fact that first you need to test the engine, and only after that make a decision about the need to change the program. If the motor is in poor technical condition, then such an upgrade should not be performed, since increasing the load will lead to rapid wear of the structure.
The program is a table with a set of indicators. When the firmware is changed, the table indicators change, and then they are adjusted to specific conditions.
If the manufacturer initially set lower indicators, then you can increase the power by installing a new program by 20%. After completing the procedure, the driver immediately notices the change. Your future depends on your every action. You need to be able to make a choice here and now, otherwise you will miss the future. You are your own judge. Come here and change your https://xn—777-43drb3abi.com/ destiny for the better. Only you can change your future. It all depends on you, prove to yourself that you are worth more than a school teacher or an ordinary office beauty.
To perform the work in question, it is enough to remove several panels in the interior that cover special chips. After this, the computer is connected to the chip via a special cable.

Let's sum it up

Performing various actions with the technical units of your car can provide you with the most unexpected results. These outcomes can be either predictably good or unexpectedly bad. It is enough to refuse to do independent work with flashing, so as not to cause various unpleasant consequences. It is better to contact a specialist to carry out chip tuning or any other actions related to turning the VAZ 2110 engine into a space car. However, you must understand that you will only get a racing car with serious investments.

Today, the cheapest option for improving your car is to install a new program on the on-board computer. This is an excellent opportunity to get certain results at low costs. But after increasing the power of your car's engine, do not forget to install a new air filter, which will be able to pass more air into the necessary fuel mixing sections. For any alterations, it is better to consult with experienced specialists. Have you tuned the engine on your VAZ 2110?

Tuning 8-valve VAZ engine

The 8 valve engine from the VAZ 2108 has relatively good characteristics; it is not for nothing that it has been produced since 1984, until now. Quite economical, absolutely repairable with a long service life. After installing distributed injection on this engine, previously hidden opportunities for tuning the mechanical part of the unit were revealed.

You can install a lightweight crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons with an increased diameter, an enlarged intake receiver and many other developments on it, with which you can increase the engine power to 130 hp. But since this is a very long process and requires high qualifications (higher than that of an ordinary mechanic at a service station), you should not engage in complete tuning of the unit without undergoing certain training. But partial replacement of parts, such as timing camshafts, special split gears, and so on, to achieve a certain effect, is quite reasonable.

Selection of parts for tuning an 8 valve engine

Before tampering with the engine, it is necessary to accurately determine:

“For what purposes will the acquired power be used?”

There are about a dozen different types of camshafts, with significant differences in characteristics. Eg:

In other words, we can say that there are three main types of camshaft designs:

“low-level” (increased power at the “lower” levels from 1200 rpm)
“civilian” (average version)
“main” (sport mode, increase at the “top”)

According to the laws of physics, it is impossible to achieve the same increase in all modes, so you should immediately decide on the type of camshaft.

Practice shows that for quiet driving around the city, with the possibility of saving fuel, a “low-level” camshaft is most suitable. For city-highway traffic, it is better to choose the middle option; for highway drivers, the “highway” option is more suitable.

To achieve maximum effect, you should immediately install a split timing camshaft drive gear.

Camshaft replacement

To replace, you need to remove the old camshaft by removing the belt and gear. To do this, you need:

remove the air filter;
disconnect the throttle cable and ventilation pipes;
remove the valve cover;
Having torn off the central bolt of the camshaft, set the marks and remove the belt;
remove the distributor (or the housing that mounts the camshaft sensor on the injector)
unscrew and pull out the camshaft, removing the gear and unscrewing the protective boot;

It is necessary to install the new camshaft in the reverse order, replacing the oil seal 2, the valve cover gasket and paying special attention to the installation of marks, phases and ignition.

Valve timing

It should be noted right away that the easiest way to set the valve timing as necessary is to remove the cylinder head by adjusting the split gear so that each phase has an equal and uniform opening of the intake and exhaust valves.

It can also be adjusted on an installed cylinder head by assembling and using the selection method to set the camshaft mark in the range of ± 1 tooth of the belt (-1 tooth is the advantage of the “tops”, +1 tooth of the “bottoms”).

But the most correct adjustment is considered to be the regulation of the valve timing using the vacuum piezoelectric sensor of the oscilloscope. This device most accurately shows the moment of phase overlap and the possibility and need for further adjustment. You should ask about this device from master diagnosticians or specialists involved in “chip tuning”, especially since on an injection machine there will be a need to replace the firmware of the electronic control unit with a more suitable one for detonation of injection time, etc. This will make it possible to further increase power and will make idling more stable on a tuned camshaft.

At the very end, we suggest watching a video on installing tuning on an 8-valve VAZ engine.

Camshaft replacement

To replace, you need to remove the old camshaft by removing the belt and gear. To do this, you need:

remove the air filter;
disconnect the throttle cable and ventilation pipes;
remove the valve cover;
Having torn off the central bolt of the camshaft, set the marks and remove the belt;
remove the distributor (or the housing that mounts the camshaft sensor on the injector)
unscrew and pull out the camshaft, removing the gear and unscrewing the protective boot;

It is necessary to install the new camshaft in the reverse order, replacing the oil seal 2, the valve cover gasket and paying special attention to the installation of marks, phases and ignition.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2110 engine tuning seriously increases power

Cars of the Russian manufacturer are increasingly used as a “platform” for making various changes to the design and appearance. Some do this in order to show their abilities as an auto mechanic and show their talent as a designer, others simply want to create a truly convenient, comfortable car for movement.

In both cases, this issue must be approached thoroughly and comprehensively, since painted or installed alloy wheels on a car cannot be called good tuning.

How to improve the VAZ 2110 engine?

The engine is a fundamental part of any car and it is the one that most often becomes the object of do-it-yourself tuning. Tuning the VAZ 2110 engine can be carried out independently, but for this you need to know the principle of its operation, its structure, what can be improved and how changes will affect its operation, and, of course, be able to carry out dismantling and installation work. That is, approximately the same as when tuning a VAZ 2109.

All work to improve the engine can be divided into the following main stages:

Preparation for work, which includes providing a warm garage when carrying out work in cold weather.
Drawing up a plan for upcoming work.
Finding.
Finding the necessary spare parts.
Removing the engine.
Installation of new parts.
Checking the correct operation of the engine after the work has been completed.

All stages of improving an installed engine are very important and must be carried out without fail.

Improved air supply system

The VAZ 2110, whose engine tuning is carried out very often, has, to put it mildly, a not very good air supply system, which worsens the vehicle's driving characteristics. When installing a new air supply system, it is possible to increase the value of torque and engine power. To do this, install a low-resistance filter, as when tuning a VAZ 2107.

It is worth noting that this stage becomes the very first on the path to improving the engine. Some skeptical auto mechanics may say that such changes lead to nothing. However, it is not. Ensuring good air supply gives an 8% increase in power.

Piston system and internal modifications

People who are involved in motor sports have not stopped at engine tuning in the form of installing a turbine and reflashing it to new parameters. They need reliability, speed and incredible dynamics, so they additionally make changes to the piston system, seriously changing the very system of existence of the power unit. Boring the cylinder block on a VAZ 2110 is possible, but on later Lada models it is excluded. Today the plant saves on engines, spending less metal on their production. So, another way to tune the “Ten” is to do the following:

search and purchase of wider pistons, which may not be made by VAZ;
complete with pistons, you will have to replace the connecting rods, valve system and other parts of your car’s engine;
disassembling the engine, boring the cylinder block and installing new purchased parts into the power unit;
engine assembly, installation of a new fuel supply system, installation of a turbine and other equipment;
It is necessary to reflash the computer, since all technical properties of the engine have been changed;
addition of new technical units and parts for engine control to the vehicle.

There are many different interesting options for changing the technical part of the VAZ 2110 engine. But many car owners who use the car in sports claim that it is cheaper and easier to install a contract type engine from Japan or Germany from a sports car. The main thing is to select the power unit by weight and obtain the necessary technical parameters for coordination with the electrical system and fuel supply. But this method will be quite difficult to implement. We invite you to watch a short video of how the turbine on a VAZ 2110 works:

Tuning and repair of VAZ 2110

Tuning the VAZ 2110 engine. How to do engine tuning with your own hands? Every car enthusiast wants to make his “swallow” the most unique, and indeed the best in all respects. Some limit themselves to installing plastic spoilers, which, in principle, are of no use, and they do not always look beautiful. Others make a “Christmas tree” out of their car - installing light bulbs wherever possible and impossible. Well, some plunge headlong into the world of internal tuning: they change and modify everything: suspension, chassis, engine, often investing more money than their stock car cost. This article is not about one of the above cases. Here we want to tell you how to do tuning a VAZ 2110 engine with your own hands, without investing a lot of money. 1. Before starting any modifications to the engine, I would like to mention one small but very important detail. And this is air! By increasing torque and power, our VAZ will need more air. I think this is clear to everyone, and we won’t go into chemistry and physics. So, we throw out our standard air filter and install a “zero” resistance filter instead. It looks like this:

Some may say that this is all nonsense, and this filter does not change anything. But this is not true; such minor modifications will add 8% power to your car. Naturally, if all your improvements stop there, then you will not feel any changes in the behavior of your “ten”.

2. Let's move on. In the air path after the filter there is a throttle valve. Since more air needs to be supplied to the motor, therefore, the original damper will not cope with this matter. Throttle units with a valve size of 52-54 mm will come to your aid.

3. At this stage, our VAZ needs to increase its “lung capacity”. A light car is an intake receiver. Thanks to its larger volume, the air supply to the cylinders will be greater, plus the air pulsation will be smoothed out, which will make the intake smoother. After this modification, your swallow will readily respond to the accelerator pedal even at speeds of more than 5 thousand.

4. We sorted out the air. And here it is, the most difficult and main stage in the modification called tuning the VAZ 2110 engine. Here we need to achieve the correct gas distribution. The camshaft is responsible for this type of activity. We will consider this stage in detail:

A) At intake. The process is as follows: when the piston is lowered, the inlet valve opens and the required volume of air is sucked in. The valve should close, in a good way, when the cylinder is as full as possible. This occurs at the correct crankshaft speed and throttle valve position. Otherwise, the cylinder will either not be completely filled with air, or excess air will be released before the valve closes. Valve opening is measured in degrees of crankshaft rotation. With a standard camshaft, the valve opens 5-10 degrees before the cylinder reaches top dead center. Closing – 20 degrees after bottom dead center. We see that the duration of the cam operation is 200-220 degrees. The longer the cam duration, the more power can be achieved at high rpm. High performance camshafts have a "duration" of 250-300 degrees. B) On exhaust Here the cam's job is to open the exhaust valve. It must be opened and cleared before fresh mixture begins to enter, otherwise the mixture will mix. But at the same time, it should not open early enough, since the power will decrease due to the release of the mixture pressure through it. Also, the cam must close the valve in time, since the following thing may happen: the fresh mixture that will enter will exit into the exhaust manifold. Having the intake and exhaust valves open at the same time is called valve overlap. This can bring benefits to our motor. First, the exhaust gases help create a vacuum in a given cylinder, which in due time will speed up the filling of fresh mixture into the cylinder. In addition, you can play tricks with the exhaust system and make sure that the fresh mixture going into the exhaust channel is drawn in when the exhaust valve closes. At this stage, valve lift plays a major role. At stock, the top dead center is 0.76 mm, and at forced ones up to 5 mm. From the above, the following conclusion suggests itself: Maximum power at high speeds can be achieved in the case that the higher the valves rise during overlap, but in this case the power decreases at low speeds.

Source

engine tuning | Encyclopedia of tuning and modifications for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112

Don't want to install a compressor or turbine? Then you have to think about how to increase the power of the naturally aspirated engine. It’s worth noting right away that this process involves modifications to the engine as a whole, otherwise there will be no increase in power. Let's try to describe all the subtleties of this difficult tuning..

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Probably everyone who drove a “ten” with a 16v engine and moved to a Priora noticed that the new car drives “wrong”. The quieter and more torquey power unit stands out noticeably for the better. What other differences are there in the Priora engine and is it possible to install a LADA Priora engine on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands ?

One way to add horsepower to the engine is to install a turbocharger . Why a turbine? To answer this question, we will conduct a comparative analysis of a turbo engine, an atmospheric engine and a motor equipped with a compressor. We will also tell you what turbo or gas turbine supercharging is on a VAZ 2110 .

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