Used Lada 2110 – how to choose a car that will still drive?

Used cars are available in almost all makes and models. On the used car website https://carro.ru/best-moscow-autosalon/ - you can simply compare prices for cars and quickly find the right model. However, the purchase also comes with risks, such as overlooking previous damage to the vehicle. You can avoid this situation by following a few tips.

Tip 2: Accurate visual inspection

A visual inspection will reveal damage to the paintwork, dents and other defects. Talk to the seller about these points and ask where the scratch came from.

Severe vehicle damage from an accident requires extensive paint work. Using special measuring instruments, for example, based on a magnet, you can determine the thickness of the paint. Irregularities may indicate previous repairs.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the body, since the metal is not sufficiently protected from corrosion, and if, upon inspection from below, corroded areas are identified on the body, such a car should not be purchased.

You should pay attention to electronics, as this is the weak point of VAZs.

What are the disadvantages of buying a VAZ 2110 - warnings

There are a number of disadvantages that should be taken into account when purchasing a domestically produced car. If you change from 2101 to “Ten”, you will feel like you are in an excellent foreign car. But over time, this feeling will pass, since a used ten has incredibly many shortcomings. Don’t expect that for 100,000 rubles you will be able to buy a car for all occasions. Among the disadvantages of this model are the following features:

• quite respectable age, which for Russian cars can be fatal in terms of service life, so you should choose a car very carefully and with high quality;
• reliability of most components and assemblies, in terms of reliability in general it is difficult to say anything good about previous generations of VAZ cars, especially low quality with poor maintenance;
• low comfort of movement - here it is worth noting that the technical solutions in the suspension are not the best, which create a harsh ride, but they can be corrected inexpensively if desired;
• long trips are prohibited - used VAZs should not be bought by those who are going to travel long distances, the level of comfort and quality of the trip will not allow this;
• Gasoline and oil consumption, leakage of technical fluids - car owners are constantly faced with problems such as increased fuel consumption and depressurization of the cooling system.

It cannot be said that these disadvantages are fatal for the buyer. But it’s also not worth arguing that 2110 is the best solution for your money. It is useless to give examples of car selection and indicate the cost. There are copies on the market that cost 80,000 rubles, and there are cars that cost 350,000 rubles after serious modifications, replacement of the engine with design and other interesting features. So you’re unlikely to be able to pick up a car from a sea of ​​offers in a couple of hours.

Tip 3: Take a Test Drive

During a test drive, you may find: irregularities and noises when switching the gearbox (which in turn may mean the need to replace the gearbox, which will cost more than one thousand rubles), faulty steering, or notice noises emitted by the engine.

It is worth noting that cars with a 1.6-liter 8-valve engine are very practical, but with 1.6 engines with 16 valves, you need to be extremely careful.

Visiting "Uncle Vasya". Cheap or still cheerful? Choose a Lada up to 200,000 rubles

At first, the editorial task seemed very simple - limiting ourselves to a virtual budget of 100,000 to 200,000 rubles, consider what AvtoVAZ products can be bought for this money at the local car market. Or, more precisely, whether it makes sense to buy. It was all the more interesting for me to assess the situation since I had not purchased a car “on the secondary market” for more than 20 years, although in my youth I even worked as a reseller in the “dashing 90s.” Well, a great opportunity to remember the past!

Read previous stories from “Uncle Vasya” here.

But first, a fundamental question: why Lada? Maybe it’s still “other”? We recently considered this option, and the budget was limited to 100,000 rubles. Of course, you can argue on this topic for as long as you can compare the charms of blondes and brunettes in order to ultimately choose a redhead. From a mechanic’s point of view, if you need a really working car, then in the European part of our vast Lada has undeniable advantages - simplicity, cheapness and speed of repair. Yes, each VAZ model has separate items for which the price of spare parts, delivery times and repair costs can completely compete with “foreign-made” ones, and I have already given such examples before. But these few exceptions only confirm the general rule: usually the Lada can be returned to service quickly and relatively inexpensively. Yes, it will lose in comfort to “foreigners,” but it will always be ready to provide delivery from point A to point B. In my opinion, there is no need to demand more from a car worth 100,000–200,000 rubles.

Looking through the advertisements for sale, I immediately eliminated the options that did not inspire confidence offhand. Cars with problematic titles, multiple owners and a troubled past are often deceptively cheap, but this is exactly the case with free cheese.

As for the technical part, many years of experience in maintaining and repairing slightly “live” machines made it incredibly difficult to choose candidates for purchase. Paradox? Not at all! The fact is that “experience, the son of difficult mistakes” developed in me a lot of prejudices and prejudices, absorbed into flesh and blood along with gasoline and oil from disassembled units.

For example, I sincerely believe that you should stay away from inexpensive cars in the capital. Because of the all-powerful rust, they end up often being disassembled not with wrenches, but with a gas torch and an angle grinder, but what is difficult for a mechanic is expensive for the client.

When choosing a cheap work car, I would look at simpler trim levels. Even an air conditioner on an old car, in my opinion, is an unnecessary extravagance. Why? But look at what the client’s Opel engine radiator looked like from the side that is covered by the air conditioner radiator.

In this case, the engine can easily overheat. In addition, the cost of radiators for air-conditioned VAZs is quite comparable to foreign ones, and the replacement work is no easier. So for the old Lada, the lack of air conditioning is only a plus.

Well, to any fashionable “16-valve” with a lightweight piston on a ten-year-old car, I would prefer a standard “non-plug-in” “eight-valve”. Yes, he is not so progressive, but he tolerates the realities of central Russian exploitation much more calmly.

And since we are talking about our realities, we will again have to mention the already so annoying virus and the accompanying events of multi-day “paid weekends”. Local trading floors of the secondary car market are “self-isolated” with permanently closed gates, which can only be overcome if accompanied by an employee after a preliminary telephone agreement. Private sellers also often reduce contacts, so it is sometimes difficult to look at the car you need. On the other hand, the viral “low season” in the car market is encouraging with possible discounts and price reductions. Let's check!

So, choose Lada. But which one? I immediately propose to send all VAZ-2101...2107 to the most suitable place for them - to a museum. And, again, we talked about this segment quite recently.

The time of these machines ended 20 years ago. Of course, the VAZ “classic” will be in demand for a long time due to the lowest price, starting from 25,000–30,000 rubles for a car in “running” condition. If the stars align in the right sign, within 100,000 rubles you can find a copy in perfect condition. But front-wheel drive Ladas not only behave better on the road, but are also easier to repair, more reliable, more economical, rot less, and with equal mileage, cheaper to maintain. Therefore, let's leave the “classics” to connoisseurs, and in the chosen budget we will consider buying a Priora, Kalina and, if we’re lucky, Grants.

Why not VAZ-2114 or 2115? One of the reasons is design flaws inherited from the VAZ-2108 without any changes. Fragile longitudinal brace brackets (aka “crabs”) that can damage the front panel of the body, an archaic stove tap, door handles of traditionally terrible quality, disgusting corrosion resistance - this sad list goes on for a long time. Yes, two of my clients were lucky to buy ten-year-old VAZ-2114 and VAZ-2115 in new car condition, but the usually sold VAZ of this series looks something like this:

VAZ-2115 2005, two owners, 120,000 km on the odometer, price - 100,000 rubles

Using the example of customer cars with reliable mileage of 160,000–180,000 km, you can easily see what awaits such a purchase in the not very distant future.

VAZ-2110...2112, especially at the end of their production, got rid of many of the former shortcomings characteristic of the descendants of the VAZ-2108, retaining only poor corrosion resistance...

... and still a weak rear beam. Yes, yes, we are talking about this rusty strip in the photo below, these are the traces that give through the cracks of the beam.

At Kalina and Grants, the beam was strengthened, and the problem disappeared, and corrosion resistance also increased. The mercilessly reviled AvtoVAZ, although slowly, is evolving, and each new Lada turns out to be better in some way than the previous one. That's why we'll start with Kalina. Restyled cars do not fall into the given money range, but there are enough first-generation Kalinas on the market. But at a price of 100,000 rubles or a little more, they look so sad that the price bar will have to be raised immediately.

The first candidate for purchase looked quite good in the photo.

Kalina 2008, mileage 176,500 km, one owner. Price - 140,000 rubles

Alas, closer acquaintance immediately discouraged me from even starting the engine.

And if you ask the price of Priora for a similar amount?

Priora 2008, mileage 99,000 km, three owners. Price - 147,000 rubles. Three owners in 12 years did not reach the mileage of 100,000 km? As Stanislavsky said, “I don’t believe it!” Customer Priors with similar mileage look completely new both inside and outside, and even under the hood. The car in question cannot be called such...

By the way, I am once again surprised by the barbaric method of attaching the fender liners, which leads to inevitable rust. And so they did, and continue to do, millions of motorists!

The presence of power steering is also a clear minus for the old Priora.

The steering rack used in those days can raise unpleasant questions, and even a simple replacement of its boot is much more difficult than usual. It looks something like this:

In addition, the attachment belt in this case runs around the engine support; to replace it, you need to hang the engine and disconnect this support. The photo shows the engine of a client Priora with air conditioning, which has exactly the same layout.

It is not difficult for an ordinary car owner to change the alternator belt on a Priora without air conditioning and power steering, even on the side of the road, but on a Priora with power steering it is not so easy. One client eventually asked when replacing this belt to put two of them: one in its regular place, and the second to be circled around the support and secured to the body just in case, so that, if necessary, he could quickly replace it on the road.

And here's another Priora.

Also 2008, mileage 123,000 km, one owner. A car without harmful excesses for its age, such as air conditioning or “hydra”, the price in the ad is marketing 149,900 rubles. Everything would be nice, but...

I’m no longer surprised at how a photo can “mask” body defects, and I go to inspect the next car, a little more expensive.

Kalina 2012 with mileage 193,000 km. It had two owners, the announced price was 159,500 rubles. Condition: “does not require repair.” Does not require? Are you seriously???

Well, how can that be... And it doesn’t matter that the mileage seems to be fair, the interior is well preserved, and under the hood is a reliable old eight-valve engine.

Well, it looks like the budget needs to be increased again. The symbolic threshold of 150,000 rubles has already been quietly surpassed, but so far this has had virtually no effect on the quality of the cars inspected. But maybe the situation will change if we go straight to the price of 170,000?

Here's the next candidate. It’s a pity that the shadows in the courtyard of a cozy private house in the suburbs make it difficult to take good photos.

Kalina 2011, 143,000 km on the odometer, was in the same hands. The price is exactly 170,000 rubles. The owner immediately warns about several repainted body parts and himself shows that the left front fender does not match the color of the entire car.

During body repairs, the hood was poorly restored; the putty swells on it and rust begins to appear.

Alas, but as a familiar painter said, “the hood, like the roof, is the face of the car.”

But here is the “same, but different” station wagon and the price is exactly the same. The package is my favorite - nothing superfluous.

Kalina 2012, also one owner, 163,000 km on the odometer. Actually, the price in the ad was 198,000 rubles, but after minimal interest in the car was shown, the number “170,000” was announced. Shall we take it? But the seat that easily moved under me and the steering wheel that softened like plasticine discouraged me from inspecting the car further. The mileage is clearly very high... And the body, upon closer inspection, was also not pleasing.

But this client’s Kalina, with a mileage of more than 300,000 km, is better preserved!

Well, if you add a little more to the price, what options will appear?

A 2009 Priora with a mileage of 200,000 km, they are asking 180,000 rubles for it. It seems to be slightly underestimated... or did it seem so? I open the hood - it didn’t seem like it!

Oh, and I don’t like this kind of tuning! Well, why do a certain part of the owners treat Priors as sports cars? It would be better if they installed pistons with larger recesses!

And in general, it doesn’t work out with the Priors, I’ll look at another Kalina.

Kalina 2011, one owner, stated mileage 81,000 km. The 185,000 rubles requested in the ad easily turned into 180,000. Corrosion also affected her, but only slightly, leaving its marks on the edge of the hood and trunk lid.

And this turned out to be the first car I saw that I could take seriously, and in the event of a real purchase, inspect it more carefully and, possibly, buy it.

Or you can take a closer look at this station wagon.

Kalina 2010, there were two owners, about 130,000 km on the odometer. They are asking 195,000 rubles for it. Not a bad option!

It turns out that the cost limit for a “live” Lada is very close to our virtual maximum - 200,000 rubles. And then finally the opportunity arose to ask the price of Grant!

Granta 2014, one owner, offered for 197,000 rubles. The package is a “drum”, but “do you want to checker or go”? The numbers on the odometer are true.

Under the hood is a “non-plug-in” motor with a useful modification - a bracket for mounting the generator, which allows you to adjust the tension of its belt. Initially, such adjustment is not provided here.

You can find fault with the body, but compared to the previously inspected cars it is not bad. There is no rust even around the fender liner screws, which, as usual, are mercilessly driven into the edges of the wings.

Discount? The response was skeptical: “Well, perhaps to “wash”…”. And this is understandable - it’s difficult to buy a cheaper Grant with normal documents and not imported from Moscow in our city.

But Kalina for 200,000 rubles. Maybe she's better?

She is a year older than Granta, two owners, mileage 180,000 km. The seller immediately talks about replacing the windshield and shows the painted fender and door. The only advantage of this car is the cable gearbox, which somehow doesn’t convince me...

Well, what if you borrow a little bit virtually and, going beyond the established budget “from 100 to 200,” look a little over the horizon? Maybe this Kalina is better?

2012, one owner, mileage 130,000 km, navigation and even a heated windshield are installed, and the declared price immediately drops to the borderline 200,000 rubles. But I would pass by this car. An engine from a Priora in the cramped engine compartment of the Kalina is not the most practical choice.

The heated windshield needs to be replaced.

There are inevitable traces of rust on the hood and fenders.

The icing on the cake is to immediately buy a set of summer tires!

No, it’s better to look at another station wagon.

Kalina 2010 is sold for 225,000 rubles. She had three owners, but the odometer shows only 73,000 km. And again Stanislavsky comes to mind... Under the hood is a 16-valve engine with a volume of 1.4 liters.

Seeing this is even worse than finding a Priora engine there, since with the same dense layout it will not be able to please with the same dynamics. This is the most unsuccessful power unit of AvtoVAZ.

By the way, about the Priors. If you “step over” 200,000 rubles, you can choose a good car.

The 2013 car has covered 168,000 km in the same hands. But its price is 235,000 rubles, and that’s a completely different story...

Questions may arise: why was such a now popular thickness gauge not used during the inspection, and why were the cars not sent to a lift?

In my opinion, a thickness gauge is only relevant when choosing an almost new car. “Our overseas partners,” when talking about the inevitable accidents in life, sometimes use the expression “Life in the big city.” In relation to 10–12 year old cars, this means that there will be no “unbeaten, unpainted” cars on the market. This must be accepted and taken calmly - well, with our traffic, after so many years in the metropolis, it is impossible not to scratch at least a bumper or fender. As for inspection in a car service center, even in the simplest garage, this is certainly necessary, but... Sending all the market junk cars to the service center is a waste of time and money, so you need to inspect in detail only the car that you really liked and liked. - I really wanted to buy it. To do this, it is better to use a lift rather than a pit. Sometimes in this way traces of serious accidents are revealed or obvious flaws in past body repairs are discovered. This may be a reason to refuse the purchase altogether, or at least to bargain hard. Possible defects in the chassis, which are also best diagnosed on a lift, will also help reduce the price. Of course, cheap ball joints or brake pads are unlikely to greatly affect the cost of the car, but suddenly...

What conclusions arise?

The most important thing is that in the price group “up to 150,000” you can only choose among VAZ-2110...2115. Of course, “there are different cases,” but usually Kalina, Priora, and even more so Granta in good condition can only be found with a budget of 180,000–200,000 rubles. At the same time, the search for a worthy Lada resembles the work of a mining plant, which produces a tiny portion of precious metal after processing several cars of almost empty ore. Even using the “one owner, local registration” filters, it is extremely difficult to find a car that is actually from the owner, and not from a reseller. Undoubtedly, there are such Ladas on the market, but I have not come across them, I only dealt with intermediaries. Alas, interesting options are quickly snapped up by resellers. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to reliably find out how the purchased car was serviced. This confirms the old rule: after purchasing a new car, full maintenance is required, and its final cost is not always predictable.

The condition of the car described in the ad often needs to be taken one step lower. That is, if it is said that it is wonderful, then maybe the car is really not bad. But if it says “good condition, does not require repair,” then sometimes this means that repair is still needed. And if it says “requires minor repairs,” then get ready for serious expenses, because the seller would have done minor repairs himself.

It is curious that the prices of private sellers and trade-in showrooms were practically the same, just as the condition of the cars they sold did not differ. I know many clients who, when purchasing new cars, handed over their old ones to dealers with mileages of up to 120,000 km. So, when looking for an inexpensive car with one owner and low mileage, contacts with car dealership managers can be very useful.

Usually the editors provide such car reviews with a “vote” on the topic “Which car do you like?”, but it is difficult to apply such a poll to the cars reviewed. These cars are rarely purchased because they liked them and wanted to buy them. Much more often, life forces you to make such a purchase by making the classic “offer you can’t refuse.”

Which car from those examined would I take for myself? Oh, you can’t say that to a mechanic, but like the ancients: “Plato is my friend, but the truth is dearer”... If I were now looking for a car with two hundred thousand rubles in my pocket, I would not go for a second-hand one at all. Remember which car old Ford called the best? So my choice is, with minimal confidence in the future, to use this money as a down payment and buy, albeit the cheapest, a new car on credit. You need to travel, and not provide work for a mechanic you know?

Tip 6: Prices for car spare parts

In addition to weak points, you should pay attention to the prices of spare parts.
The ease of repair and your own screw-driving skills also indicate future costs. The VAZ 2110 is ideal in this regard, since repairing this car will not cost exorbitant prices. At the same time, the car is very well adapted to off-road conditions and after each journey made, there will be no need to solve the problem with leaking oil. Finally, I would like to note that if you are not sure that you can handle inspecting the car yourself, then it is advisable to hire a person who understands cars. Four eyes see more than two.

Why you should look at a used 2110 - important advantages

To this day, the main advantage of the model remains its relatively low price. Of course, there are no models on the market younger than 2008; simple engines do not add any special advantages to the purchase. Nevertheless, the machine has enough advantages. This is a practical and very inexpensive car to maintain, spare parts for which can be purchased at every car store and market. There are a lot of spare parts, there are good analogues and originals. Among the benefits of purchasing this model are also the following features:

• quite adequate quality, if the car was not killed before you, the main components and assemblies serve without any problems up to 250-300 thousand kilometers, this is a long time for any modern car;
• tolerable comfort, if you don’t expect much from the car, a smooth ride will ensure timely maintenance, replacement of struts at the right time, compliance with load restrictions;
• durable materials - although there are no expensive soft plastics here, the interior elements last much longer than you can imagine, the car resists wear;
• relatively low consumption - you can keep within 7 liters per 100 km in the combined cycle, if you drive carefully and do not put too much pressure on the trigger, on the highway fuel consumption is even more pleasing;
• no problems with the engine, almost all engines work well, there are 1.5 and 1.6 liters, both have versions of 8 and 16 valves, there is not much power, but the dynamics are not the worst.

In addition to all the advantages of the car, you can add its low fuel requirements, a fairly large trunk and ease of operation. Despite all the post-Soviet qualities of this car, you can find many advantages in it. But the main ones are, of course, associated with a very affordable price tag. That's why the car is still popular today. Let's look at how to choose a more or less lively “Ten” in the car market.

Options

• 1.5. Engine 72 hp 105 Nm. Max. Speed ​​– 165 km/h. Consumption from 5.5 l. on the highway up to 9 l. in the city. Box – mechanics VAZ-2181, 5-speed. Accelerates to hundreds in 14 seconds. • 1.5i. Gasoline engine, 79 hp, 116 Nm. Consumption from 5.3 l. on the highway, up to 8.6 in the city. • 1.6. Gasoline engine, 80 hp. 120 Nm. Acceleration to hundreds – 13.5 seconds. • 1.6i. More powerful engine. Power 89 hp 131 n.m. Consumption from 6.3 (highway) to 10.1 in the city. • 1.5i. Power 92 hp 128 Nm. The maximum speed is 175 km/h, which is an average increase of 10 km/h. Above standard equipment. Consumption from 7.1 l. on the highway, up to 9.5 liters. around town.

“Standard”, “Norma” and “Lux” configurations are offered. If the first one goes to the owner without any frills, then the “norm” is already equipped with such pleasant bonuses as electric windows. True, only on the front doors. Rear seats with headrests. The luxury version of the 10 received 14-inch alloy wheels, heated velor seats (front), fog lights, a spoiler and even an on-board computer.

Description

In 1994, engineers of the AvtoVAZ concern developed another engine of the tenth family, which received the VAZ-2111 index. For a number of reasons, it was possible to start its production only in 1997. During the production process (until 2014), the engine was modernized without affecting its mechanical part.

The VAZ-2111 is an in-line four-cylinder naturally aspirated petrol engine with a volume of 1.5 liters and a power of 78 hp. s and torque 116 Nm.

The VAZ-2111 internal combustion engine was installed on Lada cars:

• 21083 (1997-2003);
• 21093 (1997-2004);
• 21099 (1997-2004);
• 2110 (1997-2004);
• 2111 (1998-2004);
• 2112 (2002-2004);
• 2113 (2004-2007);
• 2114 (2003-2007);
• 2115 (2000-2007).

The engine is designed on the basis of the VAZ-2108 engine and is an exact copy of the VAZ-2110 with the exception of the power system.

The cylinder block is cast from high-strength cast iron, not lined. The cylinders are bored into the body of the block. The tolerance includes two repair sizes, i.e., it allows for two major repairs with cylinder boring.

The crankshaft is made of special cast iron and has five bearings. A special feature is the modified shape of the shaft counterweights, due to which they act as a balancing mechanism (dampen torsional vibrations).

The connecting rods are steel, forged. A steel-bronze bushing is pressed into the upper head.

Aluminum alloy pistons, cast. The piston pin is a floating type and is therefore secured with retaining rings. Three rings are installed on the skirt, two of which are compression and one is oil scraper.

The cylinder head is aluminum, with one camshaft and 8 valves. The thermal gap is adjusted by manually selecting shims, since hydraulic compensators are not provided.

The camshaft is cast from cast iron and has five bearings.

Timing belt drive. If the belt breaks, the valves do not bend.

Power supply system – injector (distributed fuel injection with electronic control).

Combined lubrication system. Gear type oil pump.

The cooling system is liquid, closed type. The water pump (pump) is of a centrifugal type, driven by a timing belt.

Thus, the VAZ-2111 fully complies with the classic design scheme of VAZ internal combustion engines.

Handling, cross-country ability, driving sensations

The four-door sedan from Tolyatti was initially made as a complete alternative to the “Spartan” Ladas and earlier models with the “Fiat” body type. Including the feeling of driving. The suspension has become more pleasant. You no longer felt every feature of your native roads with your tailbone. More precisely, they felt it, but not so strongly.

The off-road characteristics of the new car, of course, are not Niva’s, but on domestic roads and directions (for it’s simply a sin to call them roads) it feels good. Ground clearance of 170 mm is clearly not for fans of lowered cars. It is usually enough to feel confident enough even in the fall. However, it all depends on the area. Because in some places only diesel caterpillar tractors feel at ease.

The smoothness of the ride is top five. Here it is worth paying tribute to the designers and engineers. There are no strong vibrations or other unpleasant sensations when driving. If you want even more comfort, installing an air conditioner on a VAZ 2110 .

Owners of individual cars sometimes complain about directional stability, which, in their opinion, is less than that of the 99th model.

If you install 14-inch wheels, you begin to feel the bumps on the road more harshly. At the same time, handling does not become worse, which is good news. But here's the problem - you start catching the rear edge of the wheel arch. And this despite the fact that 14-inch wheels were initially provided by the manufacturer.

Very often you have to think about replacing shock absorbers. However, this applies to cars produced in the 90s, where this problem was a common occurrence, and already at 20 thousand, smart drivers installed “Torgmash” instead of their relatives.

However, if the “ten” was well looked after, then even after 200 thousand it will feel quite good. Here, as with any car. This is not a “classic”, like the 6th model. Riding the 2110 is much more comfortable. Of course, this is not a “Bavarian”, but the price category is completely different.

Motor VAZ 21083

Before considering the characteristics of VAZ engines of a completely new principle, it is worth paying attention to such transitional units as 2108, 2110 and 2111, since it was with them that the era of fuel injection by injector and the birth of front-wheel drive began.

Both of these engines are installed on models 2108, 21083, 2109, 21099, so it is currently very popular to replace an old carburetor engine with an injection engine, due to the many advantages of the latter.

• The fundamental difference between the 21083 engine and its predecessor 2108 was that it had to be transverse in placement due to front-wheel drive. The fundamentally new piston, which used a special micro-profile, retains lubricant much better than the early 2103, which was coated with tin.
• ICE 21083 is modified with a cylinder diameter of up to 82 mm, a working volume of up to 1500 cm3, and a maximum power of 65 hp. With. increases to 68, and torque from 95 to 100.5/3400.
• The timing drive of VAZ engines of the 8th family becomes belt driven, unlike the 2103, where there was still a chain. The quality of this change is certainly debatable, but every car enthusiast finds positive and negative sides in any type of timing drive.
• New features in the VAZ 2108 and 21083 engines include a new carburetor, which becomes much more economical than its predecessor, a completely different oil pump, driven by the crankshaft; a gasoline pump with outlet and inlet pipes on the same line, as well as a structurally different water pump.

Determining a potential purchase

The first step before purchasing is to search for offers on cars for sale. There are enough options here, so first you should narrow your search as much as possible and for this you need to decide on a number of criteria:

• Available budget;
• Preferred variant (sedan or station wagon, front or rear wheel drive, 3 or 5 doors, etc.);
• Experience in car repair and the ability to carry out maintenance after purchase (for some buyers, buying a faulty car and restoring it may be a more profitable option)

These criteria will significantly reduce the time spent searching for the required car.

Next, you can consider the existing proposals. One of the best purchasing options is to buy a VAZ from acquaintances, friends, relatives, in general, a car that is well known to the buyer. Knowing the features of the car, and the owner’s attitude towards the car, you can roughly determine the condition of the car in advance and, based on this, negotiate. In addition, in this case, the option of paying in installments is available (if there is a trusting relationship between the buyer and the seller), which will allow you to purchase a car whose cost is higher than the available budget.

If you don’t have such acquaintances, then you’ll have to look for options on trading platforms:

• Internet resources;
• Advertisements in newspapers;
• Car markets;

When choosing a car on such sites, you should not stop at just one option; you should choose 3-5 cars that best meet the selection criteria and select the best offer from them.

Motor VAZ 2103

Since the late 70s, cars produced on special order, for example, for some police units, have had a completely new power unit, which has different technical characteristics, unlike other VAZ engines.

It was installed both on the later Kopeykas and on its successors - export 2102, 2103, 2107 and later on 2121, 21053.

These VAZ 2103 engines have become an absolute novelty (plural, but before and after everything is singular). Thanks to its dynamics, they allowed it to accelerate to 100 km/h in less than 17 seconds.

Such indicators became possible due to a number of changes:

• The volume increased to 1500 cm3;
• The piston stroke increased by 14 mm;
• maximum power became 77 hp. With. ;
• torque was determined for the first time. On this type of VAZ engine it became 104/3400.

The cylinder block is made of a special cast iron alloy, the cylinder head is made of aluminum. These rules were mandatory for all types of engines, and the fundamental difference was in the diameter of the cylinders. If for units 21011, 2105 and 2106 it was within 79 mm, then in 2103 it became 76 mm.

Another positive feature of this model is the ability to install crankshaft 21213, which has identical parameters, but improved technical characteristics of the VAZ engine.

In addition, the 2103 can be equipped with both classic and contactless ignition. Rebuilding the engine was not particularly difficult for specialists, and the availability of spare parts in terms of availability and pricing did not force the owner to search for places and means of purchase for a long time.

Bargain

After all checks - bargaining. Here you should indicate all identified defects and breakdowns, and based on them, agree on a discount. But here it is better to operate with specific figures in order to constructively prove the need to reduce the price. And to do this, before the inspection, you should inquire about the cost of spare parts and repairs for the most common faults and defects. Below is a list of those components that most often require restoration, as well as an approximate amount of work:

• Body work (bottom repair will cost $200-300, repainting - from $1000, removal of rust spots - $100-300);
• Power unit (replacement of consumables - $50-150, major repairs - up to $1000);
• Brake system or steering ($200-400);
• Suspension (from 50 to 400$);
• Optics (headlights – $50-100, windshield – $100-250);
• Exhaust gas system (cook - $30-40, replace - $100-150);

The indicated amounts are very approximate and a lot depends on the car itself, the complexity of the damage and defects, as well as on who will carry out the repairs (you can save a lot by doing the repairs yourself, but it’s better to keep silent about this, telling the buyer that he will have to spend money on the services of a service station) .

Having agreed on the price, we directly carry out the purchase and renewal of documents. But the process of purchasing a car is not over yet.

Specifications

Primary maintenance

Having become the owner of a VAZ, it will not be amiss to perform maintenance in order to be completely confident in the car (this operation is necessary even on those cars whose condition is “sit down and drive away”).

When performing the first maintenance of your car, you should:

• Replace all tech. fluids (it is unknown when and what the previous owner filled in);
• Change engine consumables (drive belts);
• Assess the condition of the brake pads;
• Replace suspension consumables;
• Check and adjust camber/toe angles;

This is the required minimum before starting normal operation of the car. And during use, gradually eliminate other defects and breakdowns.

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We receive primary information

Having settled on several options, we carefully study the information provided on the car. In this case, the description of the car should not be particularly taken into account, since the specified data is not always true; here it is more worth looking at the attached photos (the more there are, the better).

You should also compare the listed prices for the cars. You should not “deal” with a price that is much lower than the market price, since almost always in such offers the car is problematic (there are fines on it or it is pledged to the bank, technically “killed”, something is wrong with the documents, etc.). d.). As a result, such a purchase will result in very serious and unpleasant consequences. Therefore, in terms of prices, you should focus on options with the average market price (with a slight deviation in the positive or negative direction).

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After deciding on the cars, you can call the sellers. At this stage you should ask:

• The technical condition of the car (but you shouldn’t trust the description too much, although if the seller is honest and just decided to sell the car, he can tell you about the problems and nuances of the car over the phone);
• Operating conditions;
• To whom is the car “registered” (the best option is if the seller or his close relatives are the owner according to the technical passport, and he agrees to deregister the car. It is better to skip options when the seller only has a power of attorney for the car, since in the future with re-registration problems may arise);
• How many total owners did the car have (1-2 owners is the best option, 3 is allowed, more - you can stop talking and look for a car to purchase further);
• The period of ownership of the car by the owner (the longer, the better. If he owns the car for only a couple of months, it is better to refuse to purchase such a car and believe the stories that “it didn’t fit” or “urgently need money”);
• The appropriateness of bargaining (ordinary sellers often agree to bargain within “reasonable limits”);
• The opportunity to check the car at a service station (checking at a service station is one of the best options to determine the technical condition of the car, especially for those who are on good terms with the car, and if the seller refuses such a check, then there is something “unclean” with the car. But in this case, you will have to agree on the issue of payment for service station services);

Having clarified all the details, you can coordinate a meeting to inspect the car “live”. At the same time, when going to the “bride,” it would not be superfluous to have a friend who is well versed in cars. Since if you insure a car, it is better to know in advance all the pitfalls

Motor 2101 “Kopeyka”

It’s no secret that the first “Kopeyka” is a prototype of the Italian FIAT 124.

Accordingly, the first of the VAZ engines was initially only a modification of its predecessor, a kind of tuning of the VAZ engine.

The characteristics of VAZ engines have been changed:

Further tuning of the VAZ engine consisted of strengthening the transmission, which Italian engineers liked, and later they began to use Soviet modifications on their units.

Later, exports began to spread, and for the first time a rotary engine in a VAZ appeared on cars sent to neighboring countries.

This was the first successful experiment, but due to the difficulty of repairing such a unit and the virtual lack of spare parts, over time these types of motors became unpopular. Although analysts predicted a good future for units of this type, it was only necessary to properly establish the spare parts market.

Vehicle inspection

Inspecting a car is perhaps the most important part when choosing, since it makes it possible to assess the condition of the car, identify defects and problems, which will subsequently reduce the price or lead to the conclusion that the purchase should be abandoned.

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Documentation, mileage

When we meet, we first consider the car's title and other technical equipment. documentation (the more the seller provides, the better). We also immediately check with technical data. passport body number.

The next criterion is mileage, but there are a lot of nuances here, so for the most part you will have to be content with the odometer readings. But here it is also possible to make some calculations based on the information provided by the owner. For example, the car is 10 years old, and the owner indicates that he used the car only for personal purposes. With such operation, the average annual mileage varies in the range of 10-20 thousand km, and as a result we get that the odometer should show approximately 100-200 thousand km. If it is lower, the mileage is most likely twisted (we don’t pay attention to the stories that “only grandfather drove the car to get bread”), and a higher mileage will indicate that the car was used very actively (for example, as a taxi or a worker). auto). But such calculations give only an approximate result and it is impossible to take into account all the nuances, so you have to rely on the seller’s honesty, as well as on what the technical condition of the car will “tell”.

After checking the documents, a general inspection of the car and comparing its condition with the odometer readings, we proceed to a more detailed diagnosis of the condition.

Power unit

The first thing you should do is inspect the engine, its attachments and components. A clean engine without any traces of leaks, but fairly dusted with dust, is the best indicator that the power plant is in full working order and nothing was done to it before sale. Even if a small leak of technical fluid is noticed somewhere, this is not a reason to refuse the purchase, but at the same time it will help to “reduce” the price a little.

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But a thoroughly washed engine is a reason to be wary, since by washing they usually try to hide traces of malfunctions or recent repairs (which are unknown how they were carried out). New attachments and wiring may indicate that the vehicle has recently undergone major repairs (the reason for which is also hidden by the owner or he provides inaccurate information).

In addition to the engine, we also inspect all surfaces of the engine compartment (hood, engine shield, arches). Often they retain traces of heavy technical leaks. liquids (if any).

Body and suspension

Next we inspect the body. In order not to miss the nuances, it is better if the inspection is performed in bright sunlight. In this lighting, even minor discrepancies in paint shade will be noticeable, indicating touch-ups or body repairs.

Statements that the car is “not beaten, not painted” should not be paid attention at all, since according to statistics, about 90% of all cars received damage to the body during operation, but only the owner knows how serious they were (but whether he will tell the truth is unknown ).

Be sure to check the markings on the glass (it should be the same everywhere), any discrepancies will indicate that some glass has been replaced.

also inspect all the gaps of the body (on the doors, hood, trunk). Strong discrepancies in the size of the gaps are one of the signs that the body is “behaving”, and this is fraught with many problems in the future.

Again, dust is a good helper in determining the condition of a car - a thin layer of it on all surfaces will indicate that the seller of the car did not specifically prepare the car for sale and provided it for inspection “as is.” Naturally, he can wash the car to make it look better, but bumpers, nameplates, labels and other body attachments rubbed to a shine, as well as stickers, will indicate that the owner is trying to “blur” his eyes with a beautiful appearance (popularly this technique resellers are called “to put lipstick” on a car).

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It wouldn’t hurt to inspect the bottom, but this will require an inspection hole. A fresh layer of anti-corrosion treatment on the bottom is a sign that the seller is trying to hide obvious defects with mastic (in the case of the body, these are pockets of rust).

While under the car, we immediately assess the condition of the suspension elements. There should be no smudges on the shock absorbers, silent blocks, bushings and boots should be intact and not delaminated, etc.

We also inspect the condition of the tires. Their uneven wear will indicate, at a minimum, unset camber/toe angles, and at most, a “misaligned” body.

Salon

Let's move on to the salon. In it we determine the degree of “wornness” of surfaces, especially those elements that are covered with covers (steering wheel, seats), as well as door handles and rugs. If everything in the interior is new (the same covers), perhaps the seller is trying to hide the traces of intensive use of the car.

We also check the functionality of all equipment, both internal and external - warning lights on the dashboard, heater, air conditioner (if equipped), wipers and washer, turn signals, head lights, rear headlights, etc.

Checking on the go

The final stage of self-examination is a short car ride. At the same time, you should not turn on the music, ask not to interfere with “listening” to the car, and choose a road for driving where a variety of road conditions are encountered - a straight and level section (evaluate the performance of the engine - its throttle response, dynamics), with unevenness and potholes (“ will show the operation of the suspension and reveal body creaks), with turns (to evaluate the braking system and steering).

After all this, we either start trading or additionally check the car at a service station. In the second case, you should offer to check the car at any first service station, but the buyer should choose a station, and not go to the one recommended by the seller (this will eliminate the possibility that the seller will have “his own people” at the station).

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