In winter, I began to notice that the car was driving something wrong. I connected, and the mass air flow sensor gives me 1.065 volts. Then I thought, “The bastard worked for less than a year,” and a couple of months later I bought a new one at a wholesaler without packaging. Having connected the new one I saw 1.064 volts. Here I fell into a bit of a stupor, not understanding where I got too hot, at the wholesale or during diagnostics. After surfing the internet I found references to the bad masses of Kalina. And on the next weekend I decided to tackle the problem.
The first thing I decided to check was the connection points near the ECU, but they turned out to be soldered by the previous owner.
That’s why I just insulated them well, otherwise the green self-tearing tape isn’t that great. Then I began to look for screwing points on the body. And how “glad” I was when I found this photo.
I pulled back the carpet and cut the Shumka.
Further, more fun))). Using a 10mm spanner I unscrewed this nut a little at a time.
There is an option with a small ratchet and an extended head of 10, but what is not there is not there.
At first glance, the whole and well-tightened mass turned out to be slightly oxidized after unscrewing. There is a white coating on both the terminal and the nut. I cleaned everything with fine sandpaper and screwed it into place. Turn on the ignition and voila, mass air flow sensor 0.996 volts. But it seemed like a small thing. There is another mass a little higher, I also unscrewed it, but as it turned out, I suffered in vain. There are no traces of oxide, and if you believe the color of the wires with the diagram, then these are the masses of the sensors and the ECU (I also sanded them just in case). Then I reached under the hood and unscrewed the mass of the harness from the negative terminal of the battery.
Lada Kalina
Engines
The Kalina engine range includes four engines: two 8-valve 1.6-liter engines, a 16-valve 1.4 and a 16-valve 1.6. Eight-valve 1.6 engines with factory indexes 21114 and 11183 are based on the VAZ-2111 engine. The volume was increased by 100 cubic meters, changing the stroke of the piston, but the diameter of the cylinders remained the same. The larger volume invigorated the engine, but the vibration load increased significantly. Many owners complain about the noise of 8-valve engines. Its main source is the catalytic collector. You can achieve silence by replacing it with a conventional collector without a catalyst. True, then problems with passing technical inspection are likely, since Euro 3 standards will have to be forgotten.
Lada Kalina
The radiator of the cooling system rarely lasts more than 10–15 thousand km. Most often it leaks at the joint. The entire module is replaced: radiator, fan and pipes.
It happens that the engine of a newly purchased car suddenly stops showing signs of life. The reason for this, as a rule, is the loss of “mass”. The contact is unstable due to the color of the attachment point. To eliminate the problem, simply clean the contact area on the stud under the glove compartment.
If after 30 thousand kilometers the engine begins to whistle, it means it’s time to replace the timing belt tensioner pulley. It can be blown out, but it is better to install a new one. Moreover, the price of the video does not bite.
Stories from our readers
“Fucking basin. "
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The essence of the modification : to differentiate the masses, and this can be done in two ways.
Method 1 : bite off the wire connecting the ground and connect it to the metal frame with a separate wire. Wire extension can be done by crimping into a transition tinned copper tube. Photos of the process were sent by Dmitry Larionov:
Method 2 : pull out the brown wire along with the contact from the fan relay block (see additional relay block). We isolate the contact, and in its place we install our own wire with the same contact, which we attach to ground.
Photo sent by Dmitry Larionov:
In addition to this, it is recommended to throw a separate ground to the ECM.
Lada Kalina
By 75 thousand km the timing belt will require replacement. The work is planned, it is included in the TO-6 regulations. We emphasize that we are talking about 8-valve 1.6 engines. For the 16-valve 1.4, replacing the timing belt is not regulated. But this does not mean that you can forget about it. A broken belt for motor 11194 can be fatal. The cylinder head, valves, piston with connecting rod, etc. will require repair or replacement. And this is about 40 thousand rubles! In practice, although not often, there were cars with a broken belt. For example, due to a broken tensioner spring.
Replacing the Lada Kalina ECU controller - step-by-step instructions
Greetings, dear friends and readers of our site. In today’s article I would like to talk to you about the ECU controllers for Lada Kalina 1 and 2. Well, if you look into the very structure of this post, we will talk about where the ECU controller is located, how to dismantle it yourself, and of course interchangeability controllers.
Lada Kalina
Transmission and steering
Almost all Kalina owners complain about the noise of the gearbox. The source of the trouble is the input shaft bearing. By pouring synthetics into the box, extraneous sounds can be muffled. A more radical method is to install an SKF closed type bearing. But in any case, experts recommend filling the gearbox with synthetics or semi-synthetics already at TO-1. An oil change (volume 3.75 l) should be done every 75 thousand km.
Lada Kalina
Since the summer of 2008, there have been massive complaints about the left outer CV joint. It turned out that the quality of the materials does not stand up to criticism. The part is replaced under warranty.
The unpredictability of the Lada Kalina's electric power steering is legendary. Indeed, the first EURs made at the Makhachkala plant, to put it mildly, could not boast of build quality. The reasons for failure were, as a rule, errors in the program or “makeshift” soldering. Today the quality has improved, however, Kalina owners are not completely insured against electric amplifier failure. Please note that the EUR is not serviced.
After 30 thousand kilometers, the steering rack often begins to tap. Adjustment will not help, the unit needs to be changed. If by 40 thousand kilometers on uneven asphalt or a dirt road there is a small drum roll running through the body, it means that the steering tips have served their purpose.
Lada Kalina
By installing front springs with variable pitch, it was possible to achieve a soft ride, while reducing vehicle roll. Many owners complain about knocking from the front shock absorbers. The source of extraneous sound is the operation of the bypass valve. Knocking is not criminal, but it seriously poisons life. As an option, we can offer the installation of shock absorbers (or strut assemblies) produced domestically). In addition, experts strongly recommend “stretching” the suspension to the TO-1 without waiting for symptoms of laxity. The relatively inexpensive procedure will allow you to avoid many troubles later.
Troubleshooting
For uninterrupted operation of the battery, the system must be equipped with good quality wires; in this case, copper wires are the most suitable, since they have the best characteristics when operating under voltage.
The thin positive wire coming from the generator must be replaced with a thicker wire.
To protect the existing mass and ensure longer and more trouble-free operation, it is necessary to treat all existing connections and terminal contacts with a special lubricant that has an anti-oxidation function.
You can strengthen the mass by placing additional mass near the generator. Of course, you should not use a thin negative wire to connect to the car body; it is better to use a thick wire. The result will be better, and if problems arise with the main wire, the additional one will be able to start the car, and again you will not have to listen to the clicking of the relay.
As a result of the procedures performed, the car will start more confidently. We will eliminate the problem of frequent battery discharge, which will avoid the loss of much-needed volts for the car and, as a result, ensure the most stable and sufficiently high voltage coming from the generator.
Lada Kalina
The original shock absorbers on the latest batch of cars have new seals. Their guaranteed service life is 50 thousand km. Today, cases of complaints are rare. Original Kalinov wheel bearings last 30–40 thousand km without problems. But stabilizer bushings, silent blocks and other rubber-metal small things serve faithfully throughout the entire warranty period of the car.
The brake system raises virtually no complaints, at least this concerns the vacuum booster (Lucas) and the master cylinder (Lucas or Mando). But the rear working cylinders (inherited from the VAZ 2105) often begin to “snot” after 5 thousand kilometers. A characteristic symptom of a malfunction is a cotton pedal. The disease will be eliminated once and for all by installing cylinders from leading “brake” brands such as ATE or Lucas. Factory pads are excessively squeaky, which is due to the abundance of metal in the lining. For the same reason, brake discs and drums are subject to excess production. Installing Ferodo front pads and Lucas rear pads will correct the situation. By the way, it is preferable to install brake discs and drums from Pilenga.
How to check the fuel level sensor on Kalina?
On my Kalina, the fuel level needle is stuck at the minimum mark, and does not react in any way to adding gasoline. Most likely the sensor is covered. How to check it, and what other signs of its breakdown could there be?
When accelerating above 70 km/h, the fuel gauge needle drops to 0. As soon as the speed drops below 60-70 km/h, the needle returns to its place. The fuel sensor was changed, new. IN.
Hello! The car drives jerkily at any speed. It's like she's being kicked. It's as if a strong wind is slowing her down and then letting her go. When idling in traffic jams the revs drop to .
Nikita Kotrovsky
— Lada Kalina is not the most appetizing market product. However, if you put your hands on the car and follow the regulations, it can not only meet the price/quality scale, but also provide driving pleasure. This is especially true for the Kalina Sport version.
Yes, all other things being equal, it is difficult for this car to compete with its Western counterparts. But the main trump card of Lada Kalina is the price. And with proper quality, I’m sure the car has a future.
On Lada Granta and Lada Kalina cars, single-wire wiring is used (the second wire is “ground” - a metal body). This article presents the main ground mounting points in the interior and engine compartment of a car.
General layout of the “mass” in the car
:
Additional ground wires
An additional ground wire from the dashboard can be routed from the cigarette lighter ground to the inner metal base of the center console of the dashboard. As a rule, the additional weight of the VAZ 2114 from the torpedo is installed if the car has a standard dashboard. The cross-section of the additional wire must be at least the same as that of the standard wire.
You can check which panel you have by looking at the mounting of the ECM controller - with a plastic adapter between the controller and the metal base, and the presence of a diagnostic connector in the standard place under the ashtray (behind the decorative plug). If both signs are present, you have a standard panel.
Additional wires are often installed on cars with high mileage. Such cars often have ground problems, and instead of searching, owners install new wires, for example, on the alternator with the battery, or on the metal part of the center console with the battery, to prevent battery charge from leaking.
Knowledge of where the ground is located on the VAZ 2114, what signs indicate poor contact with the ground and the ability to troubleshoot problems will always be useful in order to prevent serious damage to the electronics and engine of the car in time.
Ground points in the car interior
- GND7 - ECU ground
- GND8 - ground on the engine panel
- GND6 - ground above the fuse box
- GND5 - tunnel mass
At the rear of the car, the “grounds” are located near the lights:
Where is the mass of the ecu for the VAZ 2114
The first ground pin from the ECU on cars with a 1.5 engine is located under the instruments on the power steering shaft mount. The second terminal is located under the instrument panel, next to the heater motor, on the left side of the heater housing.
On cars with a 1.6 engine, the first terminal (mass of the VAZ 2114 ECU) is located inside the dashboard, on the left, above the relay/fuse block, under the sound insulation.
The second terminal is located above the left screen of the center console of the instrument panel on a welded stud (fastened with an M6 nut).
All studs have no corrosion protection other than factory paint. When the paint comes off, the stud rusts. Pay attention to the condition of the stud and treat it with protective lubricant.
How to maintain ground attachment points
A bad “ground” leads to large-scale failures or “glitches” of the vehicle’s electrical equipment. To prevent this, you should regularly service the attachment points of the “mass”:
- Unscrew the nut and clean the contact surface of the stud with fine sandpaper;
- Check the condition of the wire tips to ensure they are securely crimped and that there is no breakage or oxidation. Clean with sandpaper or replace with new ones;
- Remove dirt with a cloth. Place the wires on the stud, install the washer on top, and then the Grover washer. After this, tighten the nut well (it is better to use new galvanized fasteners);
- Lubricate with Litol or spray with silicone grease.
Let us remind you that we previously published background information for passing the Lada Granta/Kalina maintenance (articles and refueling volumes).
The design of Lada Kalina involves the installation of single-wire wiring in the car. This means that the role of the second wire is played by the steel body - the so-called “ground”. And therefore, among the owners of the model, the question sometimes arises - where is the mass of the Lada Kalina?
Knowing all the points is necessary both for timely maintenance and for possible improvements. Therefore, it is necessary to determine all the points in the engine compartment and in the cabin.
Problems with bulk wires
How do problems with ground contacts manifest themselves?
Engine
If the ground wire from the ECM is oxidized or disconnected, this manifests itself in a spontaneous change in operating modes or the car suddenly stalls. Poor contact from the torpedo causes unstable engine operation at idle.
If the contact is broken, the battery charge deteriorates, the starter speed decreases during startup, problems arise in the ECM, because the second ground wire from the battery goes there. To correct the violation, first check the tension of the nuts securing the thick wire to the engine.
To do this, the outer nut is loosened, the inner nut is checked and, if necessary, tightened. The outer nut is then screwed back on. The thin wire is the main conductor of the negative charge. In case of malfunctions, check its condition and the tightness of the nut on the housing, as well as the bolt on the battery terminal.
If you find a point with poor contact, completely disassemble the assembly, find all burnt and oxidized areas, clean and level all surfaces before reassembling. Crimp and solder all terminals.
Problems may arise due to the lack of a castle washer under the bar and a loose nut connecting the stud and wire in the factory configuration. Over time, due to the resulting backlash between the pin and the wire, voltage surges appear in the channels of several sensors. The result is an uncontrolled increase in engine speed when the fan is turned on.
