Lifehack: car engine support (pillow) - Priora with 16 valves

To prevent the engine from detonating, special rubberized parts were invented - supports. They reduce vibrations at any speed. The cushion, also known as the engine support for the Lada Priora with 16 valves, can be: lower, upper, left and right - they provide connection between the power unit and the body and limit its movement.

The price of parts starts from 500 rubles. Read the article to the end, it will tell you about which companies produce Priora engine mounts. Let's talk about analogues, their article number and price. How to replace supports on a 16 valve motor and what keys to prepare for the job!

The top guitar looks like this

Standard engine mount - article number and price

On Lada Priora with 16 valve engines, four types of airbags are installed:

• The top support is also a guitar;
• Bottom.
• Right (front);
• Left(back);

By the way, engine mounts for Lada Priora are available in several versions. New sample parts have the best performance.

Some car enthusiasts additionally install another cushion attached to the gearbox. The VAZ-2110 with an 8-valve engine was standardly equipped with this element.

Right

The right (upper) front engine mount on the Priora is attached via a bracket to the engine, it is used for:

• Transferring the weight of the power unit to the body;
• Limitations on longitudinal movements of the motor.

Part number – 2110-1001240. In retail stores it costs 300-600 rubles. On sale you can find one pillow (only a rubber part) or assembled with metal stops.

Left

The left one, when viewed in the direction of travel, is the car engine mount, installed between the gearbox and the body, and performs the same functions as the right one. Another name is posterior (lower).

The rubber part of the cushion is identical to that used on the right, catalog number: 2110-1001240. But the fastening of the front and rear parts of the Lada Priora power unit is different, so the spare parts supplied assembled with limiters come as two different parts.

Upper

The upper support of the Priora power unit prevents the lateral movement of the motor. This part is a rod, along the edges of which there are large-diameter holes; rubber cushions are installed in them to dampen vibrations. Because of its shape, the top rod was popularly nicknamed “guitar.” In some repair manuals the part is called a rod.

The upper “guitar” is available in several modifications. A special aluminum frame and improved damping pads used on new parts increase the service life of the unit.

The catalog number of the upper rod of the motor is 2112-1001300. The price, depending on the specific modification and manufacturer, ranges from 600 to 1000 rubles. You can find it cheaper in online stores.

Replacing the upper support (rod) of the Lada Priora engine is easier and therefore faster than replacing other mountings of the power unit of this car.

Lower

The lower engine mount, also known as the right rod, in the Lada Priora is the same as the upper one, these are two identical parts. Therefore, everything that is said about the upper “guitar” is true for her. Sometimes the lower engine mount is called the rear engine mount, which in the Lada Priora spare parts catalog is designated as the left engine mount.

Additional at the checkpoint

Additional support is not provided for the 16-valve Lada Priora engine. But Prior owners often install it themselves. This does not require any modifications; the design of the gearbox housing and body of the Priora is similar to the VAZ-2110.

Its installation makes the engine mount more rigid, jerking when driving in low gears, and “nodding” of the power unit during sudden accelerations and stops stop. But the vibration transmitted to the body increases.

The rear gearbox rod is designated in the catalog number 2110-1001280 and is supplied assembled with a mount. Price – 500–800 rub.

Support bearing for Priora - which one is better

The support bearing is a part of the upper support that ensures the rack rotates along the axis while the car is turning. This part is an important element in the front chassis, the choice of which should be taken with care.

Reliable products are produced by SKF, as well as a number of Russian bearing factories. We list the main manufacturers, catalog numbers and prices of support bearings for Priora:

Recommended journal bearing manufacturers, numbers and prices

Manufacturers and prices of analogues

Powertrain cushions for Lada Priora are produced by many manufacturers. The most common brands are:

• BRT - parts from the famous Balakovo Rubber Products Plant;
• Lada Detal – original Lada spare parts from conveyor suppliers, in particular AvtoVAZ subsidiary VIS;
• Riginal is a fairly young brand of PKF Niagara.

Technologies of the future - rods of a new type are produced under this brand.

The cost of spare parts from these manufacturers is approximately the same, the difference in price depends mainly on the specific store. Some companies supply kits for replacing all suspension elements of the power unit at once. Such a purchase is usually more profitable than purchasing spare parts separately.

see also

Comments 38

grant with offset

Bet Rusich, you won’t regret it. They make less noise in the cabin and are softer.

The sevi bearings crunched, the supports themselves were fine

factory ones. and don't rack your brains. Just be sure to lubricate it extra before installation.

My SS20s were falling apart, I installed the sevi, now there are no extraneous sounds or grinding noises when turning in place, the SS20s drove 3000 km and died

ss20 with supports

SKF 51112 or our SPZ-4 8112

I installed ss20 the other day

Bearing VBF (Vologda). Install the support the same way they are from the Anvis factory. I’ve already gone through 50 thousand, people can take care of about a hundred without any problems. Why look for something else?

BMRT they say are good, my BRT creaked after three months or a couple of thousand km.

I installed Sevi a year ago and am happy. www.drive2.ru/l/7702153/

Any, there is no difference because everything is of poor quality, only high-quality parts come from the factory.

That’s why my brother changed three pairs from the factory ones in the first two years, until he installed the Sevi Extreme, everything has been great for 4 years now, I immediately installed the Sevi Extreme, I just switched to the tenth suspension, I’ve been driving it for five years too.

And 10 doesn’t have such a suspension? What’s wrong?

The ten has a cylindrical spring, the shock absorber rod is screwed through the damper to the body and when the steering wheel is turned, the rod does not rotate, and in general the damper and bearing are two different parts, sorry, I’m writing from a tablet, but here I don’t have a Russian keyboard.

That’s why my brother changed three pairs from the factory ones in the first two years, until he installed the Sevi Extreme, everything has been great for 4 years now, I immediately installed the Sevi Extreme, I just switched to the tenth suspension, I’ve been driving it for five years too.

Tell me what nuances arose when switching to the 10th suspension. I also want to install the 10th, because of these support bars and breakdowns (our roads are “excellent”) I’ve already changed the 3rd set.

Hello, no real problems, the only thing I got was with burnt plates, www.drive2.ru/l/3872728/ you can look here, but everything is new, support, spring and strut. For three years everything has been a bomb, but now the budget for such hardware as mine is not bad.

In theory, the glasses are the same size. What is the 10 and what is the Priora? And the glass was rubbed, maybe the caster is set like that? Or is the plate defective? And thank you...otherwise these priority guards don’t give you any rest.

No, after replacing the plate everything is great, the glass may be the same, but the plate that is welded to the glass under the tenth spring will not fit.

On the right is BRT, on the left is SKF - there is no difference, the price is the same - 300 rubles. I just changed the left one a month later, otherwise I probably would have installed both SKF ones.

If the financial issue is not so pressing, then put SS20 GOLD! you will not regret!

I ordered Asomi for myself, everyone seems to praise it. They should arrive tomorrow.

Asomi, we haven't let you down yet.

If the bearings are purely VBF, I think they have been installed from the factory since 1912. I rode 90t.km on my family and only changed the bearings and left the supports themselves

how many people have so many opinions, I am for brt, since ss are worth space

My brt after 2 weeks the right bearing began to knock) this is the case

I installed ASOMI after BRT, I couldn’t be happier

It depends on what roads you drive on, but use the ss-20. Sevi is complete eeeeee.

I have Rosich. There is a photo in the blog.

SS20 stood as purchased. Been away for 3 years. Tired. I put ss20 gold. Half a year on them. So far there are no complaints.

To be honest, I installed VBF on the former 99th. After some time I noticed cracking of the rubber on one of them! It was not possible to verify the batches and release date. Alas, I later changed it to BRT.

I installed new VBF bearings that come with the BRT and Anvis bearings (installed since 10), at first the right spring clicked, then the left one, threw them out and installed SKF. they have a slightly different shape, while there is silence. price 420 rubles for one, Vbf cost about the same.

Asomi I've been driving for 3 years without problems

They say ss20 lasts longer. I’m knocking and I don’t know which ones to put.

Replacement: removal and installation of Priora engine mounts

To replace the power unit suspension, you will need the following tool:

• Socket wrenches with heads 13, 15, 17, Torx E10, preferably with extensions;
• Open-end or ring wrenches for 13, 15, 17;
• Jack.

It is not necessary to use a complete set of spanner and socket wrenches of the same size. However, the presence of all the listed keys will significantly simplify and speed up the work. When replacing side rods, the power unit must be jacked up to unload the components being replaced.

How to replace the front support bearing on a Priora

Before starting the replacement, familiarize yourself with the structure of the front suspension strut, and it is also recommended to watch the video (at the bottom of the article) .

Preparation for repair

Place the car on a flat surface and provide lighting, engage first gear, it is advisable to also place wheel chocks at the rear, and provide insurance when working with a jack.

Prepare the required tool:

• new spare parts for replacement.
• a set of keys and a ratchet;
• steering wheel end puller (preferably);
• hammer;
• clamps or spring ties (required);
• jack and vice.
• penetrating lubricant WD-40.
• Torque wrench (optional).

Disassembling the front pillar assembly

1. First, remove the rubber cover.

1. To unscrew the fastening you will need a special elongated double head for 22, sold for 150 rubles.

1. We grab the smaller inner head with a spanner.

1. First, loosen the nut (do not unscrew).
2. Moving on to the bottom of the rack, the wheel has already been removed. We treat the fasteners of the secondary knuckle with penetrating lubricant (WD-40), as well as the steering tip bolt. Let's wait for a while.

1. We tear off the rack mounting bolts. The process looks like this:

1. You can’t unscrew them right away; you’ll have to knock them out at the end. First, unscrew the tip of the ball joint.

1. We loosen it with a spanner, then work with a “ratchet”.

1. Next, you will need a special puller, or carefully knock it out with a hammer through a wooden spacer.

1. Let's go back to the lower strut bolts. We knock them out carefully with a hammer and a wooden wedge. The fastener on top regulates the wheel alignment - do not confuse it with the bottom one when assembling.

Replacing the VAZ front shock absorber strut support

Source of the article: https://zamena-podshipnikov.ru/opornyy-podshipnik-peredney-stoyki-priora.html

Replacing the left support is done in two ways

The first involves removing the part assembled with limiters. To complete it you need:

1. Tighten the nut from the bottom of the car, which secures the part to the gearbox bracket;
2. Unscrew the bolts securing the rod to the body and remove it.

To implement the second option, in which the consumable is disassembled, you will need:

• Unscrew the pillow nut from above;
• Remove the upper limiter;
• Unscrew the bolts securing it to the body;
• Remove the part, then the lower stop;
• Assembly is performed in both cases in reverse order.

Types of shock absorbers

In a traditional MacPherson strut suspension design, the strut plays a major role. It performs both a supporting function and the function of a shock absorber (dampens body vibrations from driving over uneven roads). The unit, which in addition to the shock absorber itself also includes its support, spring, cup and slewing bearing, experiences considerable loads and requires attention and careful operation.

Signs of a unit malfunction are noises and knocking when driving over small uneven surfaces, squeaks, difficulty turning the steering wheel, hydraulic fluid leakage, body swaying on large potholes. Depending on the type of working environment and rigidity, shock absorbers are of three types:

• gas;
• oil;
• gas-oil.

Racks with gas and gas-oil working media are the most technologically advanced and reliable products, provide good vehicle stability and are adapted to a wide range of ambient temperatures. However, they are more expensive and have higher rigidity than oil shock absorbers. The latter are recommended for lovers of a comfortable, quiet ride due to their softness, but their service life is shorter, especially at low temperatures.

Replacing the right (upper) engine mount of a Priora car is carried out in a similar way:

• The central nut securing the support to the engine bracket is unscrewed.
• The two bolts securing the part to the body are unscrewed. As a rule, they have heads - Torx E10, but on some Priors there are ordinary hexagonal 13 keys;
• The front upper rod can be removed together with the bracket by unscrewing the three bolts located on the inside of the wheel arch.
• It will be more convenient to get the consumable with the bracket if you remove the generator belt;
• For replacing the upper and lower rods. It is enough to unscrew two bolts: one from the side of the power unit, the other from the body.

When replacing the top cushion, the nut of the bolt securing the rod to the body can cause difficulty: it is hidden from view and sometimes turns. To unscrew the bolt without any problems, you need to fix the nut with a flat screwdriver.

To achieve the effect, it is better to simultaneously replace all elastic suspension elements of the power unit.

Do-it-yourself replacement of the front strut support bearing on a Priora

Even experienced motorists sometimes do not immediately determine the causes of knocking from the front pillars. The noise is heard under the hood while driving and when turning. There is also a knocking sound in the shock absorber springs. Car control deteriorates, and noticeable play appears at the steering wheel.

The reason for these problems is most likely that the support bearing of the Priora front strut is faulty . The part itself is installed between the support cups; inside there are also rubber gaskets - vibration and noise insulators, which also wear out. “Priorka” is an unpretentious car, but failure of the “support” still happens from time to time.

If the front support bearings of a Priora (Kalina, 2110, 2112, 2111) are knocking, it’s worth doing diagnostics and replacement.

Installing an additional gearbox cushion

The Priora already has the holes necessary to install this pillow, so in addition to the spare part itself with article number 2110-1001280, you will only need fasteners:

• 2 bolts M12x75.
• 2 self-locking nuts M12.
• 4 washers for M12 bolts.
• 2 bolts M10x30 with a thread pitch of 1.25 (for some cars a thread pitch of 1.5 is suitable).
• 2 engravers for M10 bolts. 8 wide washers for M10 (can be replaced with a smaller number when using thick washers, for example, from the cylinder head).

The replacement technology itself

• The part is attached to the gearbox bracket using M12 bolts with self-locking nuts.
• The washers are placed under the bolt head and under the nut.
• M10 bolts are screwed into the body. Between it and the rod body, you need to place washers so that the rubber rod does not touch the body.

To replace this rod, which will also be required over time, just unscrew the fasteners and replace the old one with a new one.

The good condition of the Priora engine mounts is the key to comfortable movement. At the same time, if you have a suitable tool, replacing components will not be difficult.

How to check the support bearing on a Priora

Some causes of car malfunction:

• expiration of service life (mileage has exceeded 70 thousand km);
• excess axial loads on the racks (careless driving, accidents);
• moisture and dust getting under the hood.

To do this, do the following:

1. Raise the hood.
2. Locate and remove the protective cover of the upper support cup.
3. Start rocking the car body from bottom to top, while keeping your palm on the cup.
4. If you feel a knocking noise with your hand or hear grinding and rattling noises, you probably need to replace the bearing.

Separate support bearing VBF for Priora, Kalina

Kit with upper front support housing

Types of supports

The Lada Priora has 4 airbags installed on the left and right of the engine, as well as in the front and rear. It should be noted that only engines with 16 valves have 4 supports, while in an 8-valve engine there are only 3 supports.

Right

The right (upper) support is located near the gas distribution mechanism (GRM). Designed to connect the engine to the car body via rubber, to cushion it and dampen vibrations. This support also limits the longitudinal movement of the engine in the engine compartment.

Left

The left support (lower) is installed between the gearbox and the car body. It serves in the same way as the right one to dampen engine vibrations during its operation, as well as to limit its longitudinal movements during movement or work.

Additional recommendations for replacing the ball joint

When purchasing original ball joints, it is extremely important to control the amount of lubricant in them. Many car owners complain that the boot is completely empty. The quantity and quality of lubricant directly affects the service life of the unit and its performance characteristics.

Completely dry original ball joint

Filling the boot with lubricant

If an insufficient amount of lubricant or its absence is detected, it is necessary to fill the boot completely. Special means for CV joints are optimally suited for these purposes. In extreme cases, you can use Litol 24 or graphite lubricants. If there is a small amount of substance under the cuff, it is recommended to dispose of it first to prevent mixing.