CV joint (constant velocity joint) is a mechanism that allows you to transmit torque between misaligned shafts. The device is actively used on front-wheel drive vehicles. On each shaft coming out of the gearbox there are two of them - internal and external. Repair is impossible; if the unit breaks down, it is replaced as an assembly.
In what cases is it necessary to replace the inner CV joint?
Replacing the internal CV joint on front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles is required if the following symptoms are present:
- Crunching and knocking noises when driving and accelerating in a straight line;
- Vibration and shock when changing gears;
- Significant play when testing by hand;
- If the “grenade” fails completely, the vehicle cannot move further.
» alt=»»> The main reason for the malfunction of the VAZ “grenade” is the entry of water and dirt through the hole in the torn boot. The second possible cause of failure is a sharp press on the gas with the wheels fully turned, although in this case you risk killing the external rather than the internal grenade.
In addition to the above, replacing the internal CV joint on VAZ-2110 and other models may be necessary if the quality of the previously installed joint is poor.
Replacing the inner CV joint with your own hands
» alt=»»> The procedure for replacing a “grenade” is the same for the entire front-wheel drive VAZ line, starting with 2108 and ending with VAZ-2115, “Kalina”, “Priora”, “Grant”. Before removing the inner CV joint, the oil is drained from the gearbox. Then proceed according to the following algorithm:
- Unlock and unscrew the hub nut. To make the work easier, a piece of pipe about 1 meter long should be put on the key.
- The desired side of the car is hung on a jack or lift.
- Remove the wheel.
- Remove the washer located under the hub nut installation site.
- Disconnect the steering tip.
- The CV joint is removed from the hub.
- Using a pry bar, remove the drive and internal joint from the gearbox.
Note: when removing both drives at the same time, a suitable mandrel should be installed in their place.
How to change the “grenade” with the drive removed? To do this, clamp the shaft in a vice, loosen the clamps and remove the boot. After this, the hinge is knocked off the splines with hammer blows.
The new CV joint should be hammered by applying light blows to its end with a hammer. For this it is better to use a wooden mallet. The “grenade” is first filled with a special lubricant.
Before installing a new constant velocity joint, it is necessary to clean its seat from old grease and install a new boot. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
The repair is considered complete after successful sea trials. In this case, there should be no extraneous sounds from the drive side in all modes of vehicle movement.
Boot replacement and repair
The boot can be changed without removing the grenade if you have special equipment. His work is demonstrated on video. » alt=»»> If you do not have such a device, to remove and replace it, you must perform the above-described procedure for removing the drive and dismantling the hinge. The procedure is necessary if there is even minor through damage on the boot.
Temporary repairs to the CV joint boot can be made without removing it from the vehicle. To do this, you need to thoroughly clean and degrease the damage, then seal it with a piece of rubber and cyanoacrylate-based glue (superglue).
An alternative repair method is to seal the holes with silicone caulk. It should be remembered that it takes a day to completely polymerize.
Note: express repair is a temporary measure. Replacing the inner joint boot may be delayed for a short time, but not completely cancelled. Typically, these types of repair methods are used to get to the point of repair.
Stage of checking the CV joint boot
If you heard a crunch when turning, then it’s worth inspecting the boot. To do this, you will need to turn the wheels all the way to the left or right. Thanks to such turns, the anthers and their bends will be visible.
When examining the boot, there should be no cracks, fractures, traces of oil or oil stains around it. When this is not detected, you can rest assured that the boot is in order. If you see damage or cracks on the corrugated rubber of the boot, then it would be best to replace it immediately.
It is often advised to replace the CV joint itself along with the boot (if the breakdown has been going on for a long time), since after a while after moisture and dust get in, it may stop performing its functions. It is worth replacing the CV joint if you hear extraneous sounds in the form of crunching while turning the steering wheel.
It is worth remembering that the CV joint should be inspected and replaced if play has been detected in the connections of the device, but not factory play in the moving mechanisms. To check, you need to swing the shaft by hand in different directions. If you feel the shaft freely moving while swinging, this is an indication that the CV joint and its components will have to be replaced. Because due to a small crack on the boot, the entire CV joint may fail.
VAZ cars: repair, maintenance, tuning
Depending on the manufacturer and quality of the CV joint, its service life ranges from 30 to 60 thousand kilometers. Replacement of the external grenade is usually done more often, especially on the right side. It is more susceptible to stress from bad roads. How to replace the outer CV joint in Grante and which one is better to buy, we will figure it out now.
Choosing an outer CV joint for the Lada Granta
There are enough hinges from different manufacturers on sale, it’s bad that sellers treat them like all Zhiguli spare parts - everything is the same. In practice, for the first generation Grants there are two types of external (and internal) CV joints - for cars with manual transmission and for Grants with automatic transmission. In a word, grenade 2215012-00 (21 teeth) .
For Lada Granta with a manual transmission there is a CV joint with catalog number 2215012-86 . In order not to be confused with numbers, let’s look at the differences between CV joints for Grants with automatic transmission and manual transmission:
- The spline connection in the outer hinge has changed in size, the number of teeth is 21 . A CV joint with 22 splines is suitable for a manual transmission.
- The geometric dimensions of the body have also been changed.
- The length of the outer spline part for manual transmission is 76.5 mm , for automatic transmission - 77 mm .
- height (without spline) 55 mm for automatic and 52.2 mm for manual .
- The number of teeth for the ABS ring does not change and remains 43.
Therefore, before purchasing an outer CV joint, we first look at the number of splines on the inside of the joint body. Among the manufacturers on the market, AvtoVAZ, Belmag and Triall dominate. The price of an outer CV joint on a Lada Granta is around $20.
It is important that the kit includes a locking ring, molybdenum disulfide-based lubricant and a neoprene boot. It should not be too hard, but a boot that is too thin will not last long.
What is a CV joint
The CV joint is a very important part of the steering mechanism, the decoding of the abbreviation is simple - a joint of equal velocity angles, and the common people are better known as a “grenade”. They call it that because it looks similar in shape.
The main task of the CV joint is to transmit torque to the wheels of the car. The structure of the part is very simple and consists of six parts: the drive shaft, the boot, the retaining ring, the inner race, the housing with the outer race and the bearing.
We change the outer CV joint of the Lada Granta with our own hands
There shouldn’t be any difficulties when replacing the CV joint yourself if you use simple instructions and have a basic set of tools. It’s also a good idea to have a puller on hand for side dishes of equal angular velocities. It doesn't seem to have an article number, but that's what it looks like.
Alternatively, you can use a simple impact puller with a welded hub nut, but any extra shock loads on the transmission will not be very useful for it.
- While the car is on the ground, unscrew the hub nut using a 30mm socket with a long wrench.
- Raise the car, remove the wheel and unscrew the hub nut.
- We unscrew the caliper without disassembling it.
- Unscrew the ball joint bolts.
- We remove the hub from the CV joint and at the same time from the ball joint, and move it to the side.
- We loosen the clamps and move the boot further along the drive, closer to the gearbox.
- Using a puller or hammer, we ask the CV joint to leave its location.
- Remove the retaining ring.
- We fill the internal cavity of the CV joint with the lubricant that comes with the kit.
- We put the remaining grease into a new boot and put it in place.
- Screw the nut onto the new CV joint and install it in place.
- With light blows of a hammer on the nut, we move the hinge all the way until the stopper snaps into place.
- We install the boot, check that it is without distortions and tighten the clamps.
We put everything back together in reverse order, core the hub nut and do a test drive.
How to repair
Replacing the CV joint on a UAZ Patriot
If the boot still fails, but you don’t want to buy a new one (we strongly recommend that you change your mind) or are waiting for it to arrive, it is possible to seal the CV boot.
The first option is to use rubber patches, which are typically used for car tires. In principle, the method should justify itself, because the boot and the wheel are operated under approximately the same conditions. Take care of your purchase in advance:
- patches for car tires;
- external CV joint lubrication;
- sealant;
- kerosene for cleaning.
So, first, clean the surface and apply the patch according to the instructions. It will look something like this:
For greater reliability, fill the patch with sealant. After this, theoretically, you can move on. That is, this replacement method, in principle, allows you to seal the CV joint boot without removing it. However, such carelessness can be costly if dust or water gets into the hinge itself. Therefore, it would be better to remove the boot. Clean both it and the hinge. Refill it with grease and secure it securely with clamps.
Important! This method is suitable for repairing only rubber boots, not plastic ones!
The second option looks more like a repair in the field than a planned sealing. Nevertheless, those who have used it speak of its reliability, and most importantly, the speed of implementation and extreme low cost. For this repair you will need:
- plastic bag (stronger);
- scotch;
- CV joint lubricant.
Of course, you first need to jack up the car, remove the wheel and remove dirt from the surface. Then, using a syringe or any other similar tool, fill the boot with lubricant. It’s better, of course, to remove it, wash it and stuff it, but you can also do this through the hole that has formed in it. Next, take a plastic bag and wrap it around the boot and part of the shaft. Don't forget to push the bag into the grooves. Spin the wheel (always in the direction of travel!) to make sure that your structure can move freely. Now all that remains is to rewind it all with tape. Try to purchase not ordinary stationery tape, but special automotive tape (with the addition of metals for greater durability).
If you still have questions about repairing the CV joint boot yourself, watch this video. It presents the second repair method in sufficient detail and clearly:
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