Replacing the ignition coil on a Lada Vesta. Recommendations for selection and prevention

Cars admin26.02.2020

The ignition coil of Vesta cars converts low-voltage voltage from the battery into high-voltage voltage on the spark plugs. This is the basic principle of this part on all machines. This article will be useful for owners of a Lada Vesta with a 1.6 and 1.8 engine - we did not notice any differences in details. Let's consider the criteria regarding malfunctions of individual ignition coils on Vesta. Let's talk about how to properly replace the IKZ, and list the reasons for its failure. The price of the product for Lada Vesta cars roughly starts from 1000 rubles.

When the ignition coil does not work, it can cause various problems with the car, from lack of spark to engine stalling. Therefore, it is better to study this topic so that your vehicle remains on the move for as long as possible.

Individual ignition coil...

...(hereinafter referred to as IKZ) in a Lada Vesta car is used to convert low-voltage voltage coming from the battery into high-voltage for transmission to the spark plug electrode.
During the systematic operation of the vehicle, the IKZ wears out, cracks appear in the body, as a result of which the engine operates unstably. The process of replacing the coil yourself is not at all difficult, but it requires care on the part of the repairman.

Manufacturers and cost of analogues

• “FENOX” (Fenox) - IC16003O7 - KZ VAZ 2110-2112 16kl. + controller M7.9.7 2112-3705010-03 – from 916 rub.
• “France Car” (FranzKar) - FCR220807 - KZ 21120-3705010-10 - from 814 rubles.
• “STARTVOLT” (Startvolt) - SC 0110 - Module for VAZ-2110i-2112i (1.6 l engine, 16 cells) (IKZ) - from 711 rubles.
• “ZOMMER” (Zoomer) - 2112-3705010-12 - KZ 2112, 2170 1.6 16 cl. ZOMMER – from 1100 rub.
• "AVTOVAZ" - 21120-3705010-13 - KZ - from 987 rubles.
• “DELPHI” - 2112-03705010-11 - MODULE 2112 engine, 1.6l ~ 16 valves, engine - from 1000 rub.
• “France Car” (Franz Car) - FCR20V014 - KZ 21120370501011 - from 789 rub.
• "AVTOVAZ" - 21120-3705010-11 - KZ - from 987 rub.
• “ELKAR” - 2112.3705010-11 - KZ V-2110.12 (16 valves) - from 1397 rub.
• “QUARTZ” (Quartz) - QZ21705010 - KZ 2112, 2170, QZ21705010 - from 816 rubles.

“Francecar” fcr20v014 parts are of good quality; this brand is worth paying attention to and it is possible to install it in your car.

How does the ignition coil work on Lada Vesta

1. A voltage of 12 V is supplied to the primary winding after activation of the key in the core of the ignition switch.
2. An electromagnetic field is created.
3. At the moment the starter cranks the crankshaft, the piston reaches top dead center (TDC).
4. The low voltage supply circuit is broken.
5. A short-term pulse is created inside the winding.
6. The voltage at the IKZ reaches 20,000 Volts.
7. Current flows to the spark plug electrode.
8. The combustible mixture in the combustion chamber ignites.
9. The power unit starts.

The process is repeated by analogy at the beginning of the second beat.

Typical coil faults

The main problems include:

• systematic operation of the vehicle in elevated temperature conditions;
• wear of the insulating materials inside the plastic case, as a result of which the current conductivity decreases;
• short circuit of conductors;
• transformer burnout due to low voltage of the on-board network (below 11.0 V);
• mechanical damage to conductor products: breakage, peeling, deformation;
• excessive vibration of the power unit;
• breakage of conductors inside the circuit.

Original ignition coil

You can determine whether a coil is real or not by the following signs:

• there is a plastic insert under the base of the casing, while the fake one has a metal insert;
• two factory stamps are applied on the outer surface of the plastic;
• the outer edge has a characteristic protrusion;
• in the lower part there is a designation of the voltage value;
• the surface of the plug is processed and polished;
• rounded plug profile;
• obvious traces of casting are visible in the upper part of the case;
• factory markings are circled in an oval;
• there is a branded factory packaging;
• A protective hologram is applied to the surface.

Reference by topic:
The battery on the Lada Vesta is dead

Pros and cons of analog coils instead of original ones

Conclusion

Provided that high-quality spare parts are installed, the average service life of the IKZ will be 50 – 60 thousand km. In the event of equipment failure, replacing the part on your own is not at all difficult.

When purchasing, carefully check the catalog numbers and serial numbers with the data indicated in the table.

When the ignition coil does not work, it can cause various problems with the car, from lack of spark to engine stalling. Therefore, it is better to study this topic so that your vehicle remains on the move for as long as possible.

Let's look at the articles, the cost of the IKZ, you can navigate by price. Lately, counterfeit parts have become common. By buying such a fake, you reduce its use by half. In order for the car to work well, the choice of parts should be approached with full responsibility.

• 2112-3705010-12 JSC "SOATE", Stary Oskol - 1165 rubles.
• IKZ – 1000 rub.
• 2112-3705010-11 “ITELMA”, Moscow – 1215 rubles.
• 2112-3705010-13 “NORTH”, Novosibirsk – 1515 rubles.

As you can see, ignition coils are affordable and you can purchase them without significant damage to your wallet. How to distinguish a fake from a factory IKZ:

Replacing the ignition coil. How to remove it yourself

Preparation of the workplace, necessary tools:

• TORX key to “8”;
• rags;
• set of new IKZ.

Regulations:

1. We turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood.
3. We snap off the plastic clips from the decorative plate.
4. We remove the blocks with wires.
5. Unscrew the coil bolt at the base of the well.
6. Remove the ICP tip.
7. Installing a new coil.
8. We put on a decorative plate.
9. We start the engine and check the operation of the ignition system.

Conclusion

Provided that high-quality spare parts are installed, the average service life of the IKZ will be 50 – 60 thousand km. In the event of equipment failure, replacing the part on your own is not at all difficult.

When purchasing, carefully check the catalog numbers and serial numbers with the data indicated in the table.

Greetings, comrades. Buying a new car two years ago, I thought that I would forget like a bad dream the adventures with the repair of AvtoVAZ’s masterpiece under the proud name Lada 2110. When driving the brand new Vesta out of the showroom, I was sure that for at least three years I would not rack my brains over puzzles posed by engineers, assemblers and suppliers of my beloved auto giant, go through quests to find what is broken after all. Yes, and still a guarantee. Closer to the body. One morning I start the car and feel something is wrong, the speed is fluctuating, the engine is not working properly, the vibration at idle is more than usual. Has the engine been throttled? Well, what the hell, I thought, this is Vesta - a technological and qualitative breakthrough in our automotive industry, and all that... Did it really start again with a new car after 40 thousand kilometers of happiness, without repairs and puzzles with sorting out spare parts. After warming up, everything seemed to be back to normal, but at the first traffic light, when accelerating, the car began to twitch, stalled, and the check light came on. Super! I turned it off, started it, the check disappeared, it seemed to drive. But after a couple of kilometers there is again jerking, tripping and a check. Immediately to the nearest dealer, just in time for the opening. In their service, everything is very tightly scheduled and without an appointment it is impossible to get to the diagnostics, but I begged the electrician to come out with a scanner. The guy connected and saw two errors - misfires in the second cylinder and a shutdown of the fuel supply. He cleared the errors, found no new omissions, and let me go in peace. He told me to take out the fuel, change the gas station, and if everything happens again, then feel free to go to them for an appointment for diagnostics. Then I remembered that last night, as luck would have it, I refueled at the new Shell gas station, which had only opened a couple of days. I think they definitely filled the tanks with some kind of turbidity, either with technological waste or water. Immediately I started thinking that, at best, I was in the process of flushing the system or, in the worst case, in the pump, because there is no separate fine filter on Vesta and Renault. I stopped at Lukoil and, just in case, splashed on 100-octane gasoline to dilute it. I got to work without tripping, but the engine still doesn’t work right. In the evening, leaving work, everything happened again, but the check did not light up, and it seemed to jerk and throttle less, like gasoline.

At home in the evening I did not calm down, but still decided to check the candles. There were four-electrode platinum Beru UXF 79P, I have a blog post about them. To remove the coils I had to buy an 8mm Torx socket. Priora ignition coils and French Torx bolts are a very nice combination... A long 16 socket from the tool kit and with the usual movements, take all the spark plugs out.

30 thousand left and there were no problems with them, neither in cold nor in heat. The wells are clean except for the fourth, like all of them there are traces of oil, which is not critical. The sealant is applied crookedly and this is clearly visible. Ignition coils on spark plugs are unusual for me.

Reels from the factory come 2112-3705010-13 - PO "SEVER", Novosibirsk.

Just in case, I replaced the spark plugs with factory A17DVRM ones, which, based on the experience of owning a ten, I carried with me, and really hoped that they wouldn’t come in handy. I replaced the spark plugs, put the coils back in place, and lo and behold, the swallow seemed to have recovered... It seems...))) I drove around the city in the evening, it seemed to be gone... I was happy, that means it was definitely the candles! Our gasoline will kill any candles, even such fashionable ones... The next morning, everything repeated itself exactly like yesterday, Groundhog Day. But now I know for sure that the source of the problems is not in the candles. I freaked out and went to another dealer, fortunately we have three of them. I talked the guarantee man into accepting him without a queue or an appointment. The electrician found the same errors on the tablet that his colleague had made the day before. I cleared the errors, swapped coils 2 and 3. I did not record any more errors. The electrician admitted that it might be a problem with the coil, but there would be no replacement, since then there should be misfires in the third cylinder, but there are none. It was then that I was overcome by nostalgia for the ten))) often my ten pleased me with similar riddles and puzzles, and also when visiting the service, the symptoms traditionally disappeared... So, I insisted on taking a ride around the city, but the engineer refused, saying there was no time, and I I got in here without a queue. In general, I made a victory lap around the city and again to the electrician. Of course, the scanner didn’t see any errors, and they politely said goodbye to me. The check will be on - you are welcome! Long live Vaz! While driving to work, my hysterical laughter repeatedly gave way to obscene epithets addressed to AvtoVAZ... Day three. This time I prepared to fight an invisible enemy. Owning a ten has strengthened the spirit of a fighter in me, the experience of repairs in the field, the habit of carrying tools and spare parts with me, and other invaluable skills have again waited in the wings. I took out the ELM bluetooth adapter from AliExpress and installed OpenDiag. For two years he lay idle, but not in vain. I start it cold, and voila, the misfire is now in the third cylinder. That's it Mikhalych!))) Neither shitty gasoline, nor spark plugs even after 30 thousand miles, and nor my crooked hands were the reason for this pandemonium. The ignition coil is like that! I somehow didn’t feel like going to the dealer again, and I don’t have time to spend half a day again with a warranty; I really need a car today. Out of old habit, I go to BB (aka Auto 49), when I had a ten, I was a frequent customer there)))). There was no exactly the same coil. Bought 2112-3705010-12 - ZAO SOATE, Stary Oskol.

Epilogue. The car is unrecognizable, it drives as before. There are no errors. I remembered that a week ago the car stalled a couple of times when starting hot. This means that the defective coil has long decided to die, I wonder how soon other coils will follow it.

Conclusion. You always have to be on alert with VAZs, but you won’t get bored))) All the best. Love your cars as they love you)))

The car jerks, there is no traction, vibration is felt, or the engine is rough; all these are symptoms of improper operation of the individual ignition coil (IIC). Other signs of a faulty ignition coil are the presence of errors 0301, 0302, 0303 and 0304, indicating misfire in one of the cylinders. Let's look at a few simple ways to check the ignition coil with your own hands.

It is worth noting that the process of checking IKZ on modern Lada cars (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina and Priora) does not have significant differences. All actions are performed in the same way.

Reviews

Related link:

Adjusting and bleeding the clutch on Lada Vesta.

Checking the IKZ resistance

It's easy to do it yourself. Algorithm of actions:

1. Set the measuring device to 200 Ohm, close the probes, the display will show deviations in the indicators that need to be subtracted from the test readings.
2. The winding also requires checking, so we attach a multimeter to the contacts and look, the resistance between the first and third terminals should correspond to an indicator close to 0 - this is about 1 Ohm. The resistance parameters between terminals 1, 2 and 2 and 3 should tend to infinity.
3. Close the probes of the device.
4. Set the parameters on the measuring device to 2000 kOhm.
5. Check the IKZ winding a second time. It is necessary to attach a red probe to the spring, and a black probe to the 2nd contact.
6. If the contact is good, then you can attach the probe to it. If plaque is found, it must be removed.
7. Please note that parameters from 300 to 400 kOhm are the norm.
8. The temperature of the winding significantly affects the resistance parameters of the secondary winding of the part, so you should check it after the motor has completely cooled down to avoid burns.

You can determine if an IKZ has failed by visually comparing all 4 coils. This method is used for identical parts. To identify a faulty coil, you need to insert the spark plug into the candle holder and massage it with the engine (the skirt of the spark plug must be placed on the engine body). Use the ignition key to turn the starter and see if there is a sufficiently blue spark. The spark when triggered should be blue. If the spark is red, the coil is not ok. To check the IKZ, you can swap them in the cylinders. In which cylinder deviations will be visible, in such a cylinder the IKZ has failed.