Interior lighting of the VAZ 2107 - causes of breakdowns, repairs

In the interior of a VAZ 2107, with standard lighting, you can poke out an eye: Two C5W incandescent lamps are not serious. Therefore, to begin with, I installed lamps with the same base, but with brighter and more economical LEDs, in the standard lampshades.

Installation is simple. Take out the lampshades and replace the lamps. Polarity is not important.

Shines brightly day and night. I am very glad. They have been in license plate lighting for over a year now, and in interior lighting for almost a year. I bought a pair for 336 rubles. Now they cost less than 300. I give the link in the description of the video.

During the day, this backlight is of absolutely no use, but in the dark it looks very nice and unusual. You can choose any color of your choice or shimmering, iridescent colors. The device can also change color depending on the surrounding sound. I couldn’t appreciate this function, because I think it’s unnecessary. This miracle works in a wide voltage range from 5 to 15 volts. Therefore, it can be powered both from USB and directly from the car’s on-board network ⎓12V without any voltage stabilizers, since the power supply has its own controller that controls the supply of electricity to the LEDs. In any case, a standard 2.1 x 5.5 mm connector can be used for connection. I already had such a connector with a piece of wire from such and such another device, so I didn’t have to plug the original plug into the cigarette lighter.

The connection was made to the wires that power the standard cigarette lighter, and the LED power supply itself was placed in the “beard” behind the panel where the clock is located. An infrared sensor for control from the remote control was located nearby (see photo).

The LED elements themselves were secured in four places under the feet of each passenger and driver in the car in such a way that, firstly, they were securely held, secondly, they were invisible, and thirdly, they could be easily dismantled, if necessary.

To make everything look neat and not interfere with driving, the front strips were placed under the steering shaft and under the storage shelf, and the rear strips were placed under the driver and passenger seats between the springs and foam rubber.

And to run the wires, there is no need to lift the carpet; you can run them through the air ducts in the “beard” - this is practical and neat. Although lovers of absolute aesthetics can also carry them under the carpet. But to do this, the “beard” will have to be removed.

Now a few words about connecting the electrical part. Since the connection is made directly to the wiring of the standard cigarette lighter, and the backlight needs to be controlled somehow, we install a button. The button was set to three-position KCD-1 on-off-on. I placed the button in the place of the plug on the panel where the clock is installed. She drives there perfectly, without finishing. The button opens the ground that goes to the backlight controller. Therefore, since we control the mass, we can turn it on in one position by a button, and in another position it can be turned on at the moment the doors are opened, since the door limit switches are connected to ground when triggered (when the door is opened). The middle position turns off the power from the controller, that is, the backlight does not work at all.

As practice has shown, the most popular operating mode in a VAZ 2107 car is the one in which the backlight turns on when the doors are opened and illuminates the floor of the cabin. The second most popular mode is the constant operation of the backlight when the car is stationary and the passengers are busy with something in the cabin. And the least popular mode is when the car is in motion, since in this case the backlight distracts the driver from driving and impairs visibility, because, as you know, visibility is best from darkness to light.

Summary: The functionality of this LED lighting kit is redundant for the needs that were originally presented for organizing interior lighting. It would be quite enough just 4 LED lamps with 9-10 LEDs in each + a power controller for them, shining in one of the colors of your choice. And there are such ones in Alibaba too. But the quality of workmanship of this device and its versatility leave it out of competition compared to simpler lamps that are sold without a controller and wires for connection.

I also tried to show how the strip lighting in the cabin works with the help of a short video. In it I also provide links to the materials used - lamps, switches, lighting.

Checking and replacing the VAZ 2107 relay

Let's look at the replacement process using the rear window heating system relay as an example. This element is located in the mounting block. You can find out the exact installation location by looking at the diagram printed on the back of the protective cover:

1. Turn off the ignition and open the fuse box.
2. Find the relay that needs to be tested and replaced.
3. Remove it using pliers located in the unit body.
4. Install another device that is known to work instead of the removed device. You can use a relay from the headlight or headlight cleaning system.
5. If diagnostics show that the removed relay has failed, install a new one in its place.

The inspection and replacement process is the same for all devices. The only difference is their location:

• the main relays are installed in a fuse box;
• the device that ensures the operation of the ignition, as well as light alarms and turn signals, is located in the vehicle interior, on the front panel behind the instrument cluster;
• the starter activation relay is installed in the engine compartment, on the right mudguard;
• The windshield cleaning device is located under the instrument cluster on the driver's seat side; it is fixed to the car body with two bolts.

FakeHeader

Comments 65

I have the same ones, I leave them on the sidelights, they all say that the headlights weren’t turned off, the battery is good, right?))))
Same crap.” that the Acoma is good? Exactly.

They look beautiful. In my photo the dimensions actually look bluish =)

Think about it, they don’t fit in mine, I also bought one of these)))) I put one of them in the interior for additional lighting and in the glove compartment, now it’s as bright as day)))))

It turned out great, just describe the process in more detail? I plan too, but there is no diagram anywhere. Tell me please?

what the hell is the process, I took out a regular light bulb from the dimensions, installed a diode, that’s it! 1 minute business.

very useful information, probably no one knew how to change a light bulb on a Lada. Also show me how to replace the air filter.

I've met dudes who can't even install a spare tire (they don't know how).

It's like the neighbor is on)))

They look really cool! They'll just burn out soon. ... You need to immediately install a voltage stabilizer on them. Look on Ali or eBay. It's worth a penny.

They won’t burn out, I’ve been driving for a long time and there are no problems.

And I have a month and a month for a replacement, a month and a replacement. Here I connected the DRL through a stabilizer.

what kind of stabilizer is this? show me a link at least

It’s a hat for me) The yellow ones look somehow more menacing or something))))

You are a MEEEEEGAATUNER! Well done Ida!

When will such vehicles be banned? It seems like 25 years already, but it feels like 16.

I agree, I don’t even know what to say...

A guy found something like Instagram for himself

Replacing an old-style fuse block with a new one

To dismantle the mounting block, you will need to remove the glove box:

1. To gain access to the four nuts that secure the device, disconnect the connectors from the fuse box, as well as the chips that are located in the engine compartment.
2. Also disconnect all chips and connectors that are located in the vehicle interior behind the glove box.
3. Unscrew the four nuts securing the device and remove it from its seat.
4. Take a new PSU and install it instead of the removed one. It installs without problems and fits into the mounting points, just install a gasket before installation. Otherwise, the unpleasant smell from under the hood will enter the cabin. Also, its absence will contribute to an additional draft.
5. Reinstall all connectors and chips, and then tighten the nuts. The chips are marked with a specific color, so you won’t be able to mix them up.
6. Close the unit cover and replace the glove compartment.

Possible problems

What problems may a car owner encounter after replacing the device:

• The horn on the steering wheel stopped working;
• there is no excitation of the generator device;
• The cooling system fan operates after starting the engine without interruption.

Noise insulation

One of the first recommendations for tuning the interior of this car is proper sound insulation. Why do it? Firstly, most of these cars already have significant mileage. Many modern cars cannot withstand domestic roads and require additional sound insulation after just a few years.

What can we say about the VAZ 2107. Important information! mental isolation is necessary for the following reasons:

• the higher the mileage, the more extraneous sounds appear in the cabin;
• when installing a new speaker system;
• to eliminate external noise associated with the operation of the engine and other components.

In addition, noise isolation is needed if you plan to install a high-quality acoustic system. You will not be able to appreciate the sound if there is extraneous noise in the cabin. Where to start and what are the main elements needed for such an operation? First of all, it is recommended to prepare the doors, the inside of the hood and the luggage compartment. But often, this is not enough. Many experts recommend additional soundproofing of the floor, seats and central tunnel.

Important information! Soundproofing is never superfluous. You may want to change the standard audio system. Extraneous noise will prevent you from fully enjoying the sound quality. In order to soundproof the floor, it is necessary to remove all seats and coverings from the interior. Sheets for sound insulation are laid directly on the metal. Before this, the bottom is treated with a special mastic. The first layer is already placed on it. As for the thickness, it is determined by specialists (or by you, if the sound insulation is carried out independently). In principle, one layer is enough to tune the interior of a VAZ 2107.

To prepare the inside of the hood and luggage space, you can use ready-made kits. This makes the task much easier, since the sheets are cut to the size of the parts on which they are laid. Before the material is glued to the surface, it must be degreased. The sheet itself is laid using a hair dryer. The kit usually comes with two layers. The second is a noise absorber. It is placed on the first sheet. At this point we can consider that the first stage of tuning the VAZ 2107 interior is completed. Now you will be much more comfortable inside the car. Extra sounds and noise will no longer cause you discomfort and you can safely buy a good speaker system. We'll talk about it a little later. Finally, one more important point. Over time (and perhaps this moment has already arrived), the dashboard may begin to rattle. This is especially noticeable on used cars. Domestic roads and build quality are the two main reasons for the appearance of extraneous noise.

In order to eliminate it, it is necessary to treat the dashboard both from the inside and the outside. The most rattling part is the central air duct. To eliminate noise, it is removed from the dashboard, disassembled into two parts and carefully glued (you can use ordinary thin rubber and sealant). By the way, it is recommended to coat the seat of the air duct in the heater with sealant. Another part that can make noise while driving is the heating system control cables. Of course, they do not do this themselves, but in contact with other parts. The simplest option is to wrap them in foam rubber, after smearing them with glue.

Wires for connecting electrical appliances

Fuse box VAZ 2104 2105

Where is the VAZ fuse mounting block located: 2104, 2105 (carburetor, injector)

The mounting block is located in the engine compartment on the right side and is attached to the front panel. The mounting block is closed on top with a lid on which symbols for the purpose of the relay, fuse numbers and the circuits they protect are printed. Most of the vehicle's electrical circuits are protected by fuses installed in the mounting block.

Connection diagram of the mounting block:

P1 — relay for turning on the heated rear window; P2 - relay for turning on headlight cleaners and washers; PЗ - relay for turning on sound signals; P4 - relay for switching on the electric motor of the engine cooling system fan; P5 - headlight high beam relay; P6 — headlight low beam relay; A - the order of conditional numbering of plugs in the mounting block blocks. The outer number with the letter “Ш” in the plug designation is the block number, and the inner number is the conventional number of the plug. The plugs of the blocks without color marking are conventionally shown in brown

Location of relays and fuses in the mounting block: 1 - relay for turning on the heated rear window; 2 — place for installing a relay for turning on headlight cleaners and washers (the relay is installed on some manufactured cars); 3 — mounting jumper in place of the relay for turning on sound signals (in a variant, a relay is installed); 4 — mounting jumper in place of the relay for turning on the electric motor of the cooling system fan (in a variant version, a relay is installed); 5 — relay for turning on the high beam headlights; 6 — relay for turning on low beam headlights;

F1-F17 - fuses (circuits protected by pin-type fuses are indicated in the table above).

Electrical equipment that consumes high current during operation is connected through relays that protect switch contacts from overload. To replace pin fuses and relays, special plastic tweezers are provided in the mounting block.

Fuses of different ratings are painted in different colors; In addition, the fuse is marked with a numerical value of the current for which it is designed (rated value).

The color of the fuse body and its correspondence to the rating 20A - Yellow 15A - Blue 10A - Red

7.5A - Brown

Restoring the backlight and changing the warning lamps

We remove the light bulb that needs to be replaced (the purpose of the light bulbs is in the first photo of the article). To do this, turn the socket counterclockwise 90 degrees, and it will easily come out along with the light bulb.

Replacing a light bulb without disconnecting the power wires on a VAZ 2110

We remove the burnt device from the socket, insert a new one in its place and install the socket with the lamp in place, turning it 90 degrees, but clockwise. After this, we install the terminal on the battery, turn on the ignition and check the operation of the VAZ panel, performing the appropriate manipulations: turn on the hand parking brake, headlights, turn indicators, high beam headlights, etc. If everything is in order, then install the panel and decorative trim in place .

I replaced the lamps, but there is still no backlight - possible reasons

It may happen that the lighting or indication on the VAZ will not be restored even after replacing the lamps. What is the problem and how to find and fix it? Let's look at the main reasons for this situation, and the easiest way to search is in the order in which they are listed:

1. The power and control cable connectors have oxidized.
2. The contact pads of one or a group of lamps have oxidized.
3. The fuse that powers the backlight bulbs has blown.
4. The conductive paths have oxidized and become short-circuited or “burnt out.”
5. The wires supplying certain lamps are short-circuited to the car body.

So, let's start the search. We check the quality of the contacts on the connectors through which the control cables are connected to the VAZ instrument panel. The contacts (they are in plastic blocks) should not be oxidized, and the connectors themselves should fit tightly in their sockets. Additionally, it makes sense to tug with a little force (without fanaticism!) each wire in the bundles: it can simply break inside from vibration and hang on the same insulation.

Checking the quality of contact pads is quite simple visually. It is necessary to remove the non-working lamps and examine these areas in bright light. If they are covered with plaque (usually white or greenish), it needs to be removed, for example, with a rubber band.

We open the fuse panel of the dozens and find the fuse responsible for powering the backlight. It should fit tightly in its socket, and the contacts should not be oxidized. At the same time, we check the serviceability of the fuse - it could have burned out from a power surge or simply been defective.

In order to check the conductive paths on the board, you will have to definitely remove the protective casing from the VAZ panel. We unscrew 10 screws and carefully inspect the tracks. They should not be oxidized or covered with a white coating. Remove plaque with the same eraser. If we find a burnt or rotted track, we restore contact using a soldering iron and a piece of tinned wire.

In this case, as a rule, the fuse burns out or the wire burns out at the point of the short circuit. We replace the fuse with a new one with the same rating. If it burns out again, then the problem is a short circuit: you will have to find it by walking along the harness. This can be quite a difficult task since the harness is located under the dashboard. But nevertheless, it must be performed in order to find and eliminate the short circuit.

If the fuse does not blow and the lamp still does not light, then in the same manner it makes sense to look for the burnt out wire.

If you carefully read this article, you can easily replace the backlight and display lamps on the VAZ 2110 dashboard on your own, and, if necessary, find and fix the problem without the help of a specialist.

Previous Replacing car lampsHow to replace a license plate lamp on a Lada Priora Next Replacing car lampsReplacing a low beam lamp on a Renault Megane 2

We improve the light in the interior of the VAZ-2107 - install a lamp from Kalina

As we know, over all the years of production of classic cars, AvtoVAZ developers never bothered to install a central lamp in the interior, limiting themselves to only two side lamps. And they are clearly not enough for normal lighting, plus a poor design and regular problems with light.

Today we will try to correct this shortcoming by installing a lampshade from Kalina.

We will install it in the central part of the ceiling lining.

For this we need:

• The lampshade itself
• Terminals: female 3.6 mm - 3 pcs., male 6 mm - 2 pcs., ground - 1 pc.
• Wires with a cross-section of at least 0.5 mm: red and green - 2 m each, black - 30 cm
• Heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, reinforced tape
• Three self-tapping screws with a wide head 3-4 cm long
• Stationery and penknives
• Metal file
• Narrow-nose pliers (nose-nose pliers), pliers
• Screwdriver
• Soldering iron
• Drill with a set of metal drills
• File
• Pencil, tape measure

To begin, remove the ceiling trim by unscrewing the sun visors and rear view mirror.

Now, remove the cover of the lampshade and place the lining in the center, where it should stand, outline the outer contour.

Having retreated 8 mm inward, we draw an internal contour and along its line we cut out and remove the filler foam to the metal.

We insert the lampshade, its “legs” will rest against the metal base, so we measure and cut them, but do not throw them away - we will need them later.

We file the lampshade and remove the filler in the places of the protrusions, adjusting it in place.

Now, the plastic protective cover of the lampshade contact plate will interfere with us, so we mark and cut a hole for it in the metal base.

Also, it is necessary to drill holes for the protruding rear parts of the lampshade.

When the lampshade sits tightly flush with the trim, we proceed to its fastening. We will fasten it at three points, using two existing ones, and drilling an additional third hole from the top.

We insert the previously cut legs on the other side and cut them flush - they will be used as washers for self-tapping screws.

We drill holes for the screws, screw on the lampshade and trim the ends of the screws with a margin of 1-2 mm.

Let's move on to the connection. The lamp chip has three contacts: the red wire is the constant “+”, the green wire is the intermittent “-” limit switch, and the black wire is the “ground” of the car. We will attach the ground to one of the rear view mirror mounting bolts, and we will extend the remaining two wires to the side lamp, which has similar contacts.

Since the metal base of the trim is in contact with the “ground” of the car, and the lampshade has many open contacts, it must be insulated - we will use reinforced tape or other insulating material, pasting the plate on both sides.

We solder the “mother” and “ground” terminals to the wires, and wind the wires into a bundle.

Now, finally, we screw on the lampshade and connect the contacts, leaving a small supply of wire along the length so that, if necessary, you can dismantle the lampshade without removing the ceiling trim.

We install the cover with the lampshade back in place.

Where the wires exit from under the trim so that it is not noticeable, we cut a small hole in the headliner and stretch the wires to the side lamp.

Also, leaving a small margin in length under the upholstery, we cut the wires, solder them to the ends of the male terminals, connect them to the ceiling wiring and securely insulate them. We put the lamp in place

We attach the ground wire to the mirror mounting bolt.

We check the operation of the lamp from switches and door limit switches.

The central bulb of the lampshade can be replaced with an LED one.

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Sooner or later, most car owners are faced with the fact that the interior lighting stops working. Let's look at the reasons for this malfunction and figure out what to do in this or that case.

To understand where to look for the cause of a breakdown, you need to understand how the interior lighting system generally works. Here is a typical simplified diagram. It may include many more different devices, but the cars are different and it is impossible to draw a diagram for each specific instance. In most cases, the interior light is connected like this:

Now let’s go over the reasons that can cause interior lighting to fail.

Reason #1: Burnt out light bulb

It’s very simple and elementary, but some car owners start looking for a “fault” in the depths of the electrical system. No need - just check the lamp. You can just look at the thread, or you can ring it with a tester. The latter option will help you identify a burnt-out light bulb much more accurately - sometimes it is not the spiral that burns out, but the contact inside the base, and everything looks quite good in appearance.

Reason #2: Blown fuse

The second reason why the interior light may not work is a blown fuse. Almost always, interior lighting “shares” a fuse with other devices. Therefore, if, along with the light, a clock or radio tape recorder, for example, stopped working, then the likelihood of a blown fuse is extremely high.

Find the correct fuse in the appropriate block and make sure it is intact. If the fuse does blow, there is probably a reason for this - a short circuit. Therefore, it is not a fact that after inserting a new fuse everything will work. It is quite possible that it will burn out immediately. If this happens, there is definitely a short circuit. Need to know how to find a short circuit in a car

At the same time, a fuse does not always blow due to a short circuit. Its jumper may simply be old (tired) or made of poor quality material.

Reason #3: Oxidized contact

There are plenty of contacts in the interior lighting circuits. But the contacts inside the lampshade and door limit switches are most susceptible to oxidation. Limit switches very often oxidize in many Russian cars, since they do not have a rubber casing.

It is very easy to identify an oxidized contact - just look at it. Remove the lampshade, disassemble it and make sure the contacts are clean. If there is oxide, clean it with a small flathead screwdriver or fine sandpaper. Do the same with the limit switches - each such switch must be removed and inspected. Before removing the limit switches, it is better to disconnect the battery, because very often during removal the positive wire of the switch shorts to the body.

Reason #4: Broken wire

The reason why the light in the cabin does not work may be a broken wire. Wires that are forced to bend due to their location are especially susceptible to damage. So, the wires running into the trunk lid or doors often break. This occurs due to frequent twisting or bending of the wire when opening these body elements. In theory, the interior lighting wiring does not go into the doors or trunk, but the general meaning is the same - the wire can be broken, crushed or broken.

Fog lights

Driving a car in rain or snow can create a lot of trouble for the driver who is forced to drive the car in poor visibility conditions. In this situation, fog lights (FTL) come to the rescue, the design of which provides for the formation of a light beam that “spreads” over the surface of the roadway. Fog lamps are usually yellow, since this color tends to dissipate less in fog.

Fog lights are usually installed under the bumper, at a height of at least 250 mm from the road surface. The installation kit for connecting PTF includes:

• set of wires;
• relay;
• button.

In addition, a 15 A fuse will be required, which will be installed between the relay and the battery. The connection should be made in accordance with the diagram supplied with the installation kit.

The fog lights must be connected in accordance with the diagram supplied with the installation kit.

Location of lamps on the instrument panel of VAZ 2107

The photograph shows the reverse side of the car's instrument panel. Light bulbs are marked with numbers. Four of them under No. 2 are backlight lamps, the rest are control lamps.

They are located on the board and are intended for visual information to the driver. Each of them indicates the operation of certain systems, components and assemblies of the car:

1. Alarm for low amount of gasoline in the tank.
2. Instrument lighting.
3. Monitoring the operation of direction indicators.
4. Signal about lack of battery charging.
5. Indicator of included side lights.
6. Low oil pressure alarm.
7. Indicator of the applied handbrake.
8. High beam indicator.
9. Alarm about malfunction of the forced injection system on engines.

How to change standard lighting

Standard lamps can be replaced with more powerful and modern ones. The most suitable option is considered to be the main lamp for interior lighting, borrowed from Priora. To install it you will need to have:

• masking tape;
• sharp knife (can be a stationery knife);
• wrench 12;
• Screwdriver Set;
• pencil or marker for making marks.

Carefully remove the visor next to the rear view mirror

Please note that its weight is quite high, so if you are not careful, the ceiling may collapse completely. Outline the place of the new shade on the visor with a pencil, cut a hole along the contour. Secure the new lamp in this hole using sealant

Secure the new lamp in this hole using sealant.

Dismantling and installation of VAZ 2107 watches

You have to take off your watch to check it, repair it, tune it, or replace it with a more advanced version of the device. Before removing the watch, you must disconnect the ground terminal from the battery. The removal procedure is slightly different on models before and after 1993. In the first case, the sequence is:

• remove the three plates covering the instrument cluster mounting screws;
• Unscrew the screws and lift the dashboard;
• release the clock fastening brackets and remove them from the panel;
• disconnect the terminals of the wires connected to the clock.

To remove the watch on a “Seven” older than 1993, you must perform the following operations:

• unscrew the screws securing the center console and remove it;
• unscrew a couple of screws located at the bottom of the ashtray;
• remove the radio;
• Unscrew a couple of screws securing the radio frame;
• remove the decorative plate from the frame of the upper ventilation nozzles that covers the screw;
• unscrew the screw;
• Unscrew the 4 screws of the lining installed under the control panel for the interior ventilation and heating system;
• dismantle the switches installed under the central heating and ventilation nozzles of the cabin;
• unscrew the screw holding the instrument panel;
• pull out the instrument panel, disconnect the wire terminals from the clock;
• remove the panel along with the ventilation nozzles;
• unscrew a couple of screws securing the clock;
• remove the watch.

Installation of the clock is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling.

Installing a new audio system

This is the dream of not only music lovers, but all car enthusiasts in general. And even if you don’t plan to throw parties every day, turning your VAZ 2107 into a mobile DJ console, you’re probably already pretty tired of the standard radio. The easiest option is to install a new system and change the standard speakers. You will achieve better sound quality. We can stop there. But if you want to do more, you'll have to fork out more.

Instead of a standard radio, a modern system is installed in the central panel, possibly even with a liquid crystal display. In this case, get ready to make some changes to the central panel. If you don’t want to do this yourself, you can contact specialized workshops. Installing the speakers in the front door panels is another important aspect to pay attention to. In principle, there is nothing complicated here. You buy the speaker itself, cut a hole for it in the door panel. The wires are passed through the corrugation.

Finally, the most interesting thing is installing a subwoofer in the trunk. This is why we recommended improving sound insulation at the beginning of the article. True, you will have to prepare for the fact that after installing the subwoofer, you will no longer be able to transport, for example, vegetables from the dacha in the luggage compartment. The space is significantly reduced in volume. The final touch is the purchase of various little things like rugs and pads. They will help make your salon design complete. If you have created a sporty interior, there are a large number of pedal covers that will emphasize the aggressive nature of your VAZ 2107.

In specialized stores you can also find such an accessory as an armrest bar. It is installed in the space between the front seats. This is a very convenient item in which you can store drinks and food for a long trip. Also, you can purchase special pockets for door panels. There are backlit options so you can easily navigate in the dark. Finally, to complete your design concept, you can buy rugs. For winter, rubber ones are quite suitable, they are easy to clean and will prevent dirt and moisture from getting on the floor of the car. In summer, you can put down decorative rugs. There are many options from classic to sports.

As you can see, a detailed study of the interior of the VAZ 2107 allows you to make significant changes to the interior design. A little imagination and you can create your own unique style that will meet all modern requirements and standards. And if you want to use ready-made ideas, there are plenty of photographs and videos on the Internet. Dedicated to tuning the interior of the VAZ 2107.

Additional designations

When connecting a generator or tampering with the wiring and ignition system of a VAZ, you should know the location of the fuse box in the car. There are 17 of them in total, of which 2 are reserve.

• reverse gear rear lamps;
• electric motors for headlight and glass washer pumps;
• heated rear window;
• direction indicators, hazard warning lights;
• fog lights;
• tachometer, voltmeter, warning lights on the dashboard;
• cigarette lighter and clock;
• sound signal;
• interior lighting, brake lamps;
• high beam headlights;
• high beam warning lamp;
• engine compartment lighting and license plate lighting;
• glove compartment lighting;
• low beam on the right;
• low beam on the left.

Author of the material: Dumchenkov Mikhail

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What kind of light bulbs are in the shades?

The manufacturer installed C5W (AC12-5-1) incandescent lamps with a power of 5 W in the interior lighting of the VAZ 2107.

Lamps used in the interior lighting of the VAZ 2107

There are two such lamps in total, since there are two lamps, they are located on the racks between the front and rear seats and are equipped with built-in mode switches (see section “Connection diagram”).

You can see the types of all lamps used in the VAZ 2107 in the article “Which bulbs are in the headlights of the VAZ 2107 and which ones are better to install”

Possible malfunctions and their elimination

The connection diagram for interior lighting on a VAZ 2107 is quite simple, and therefore there will be few malfunctions, and all are relatively easy to fix. Here are those that you can eliminate on your own:

• the light bulb burned out;
• fuse is blown;
• one of the limit switches located in the door pillars has failed;
• the switch built into the lampshade has failed;
• wiring fault.

We will eliminate them all, starting with the simplest ones.

How to replace lamps

First, let's look at replacing light bulbs in lampshades - this is the simplest procedure, and the malfunction is the most common.

For work we will need:

• small flat screwdriver;
• replacement C5W bulbs.

The interior light is mounted on two spring latches located at the top and bottom. We take a screwdriver, pry up the upper or lower part of the lampshade and gently press it until the latch comes out of the groove in the body.

Release the bottom latch

After this, the lamp can be easily removed and hangs on three wires

Removed interior lamp of VAZ 2107

We find the light bulb and remove it by pushing it to the side.

Removing the light bulb

We put the new one in place, check it, and snap the lantern into place.

Reinstalling the interior light Important! Regardless of the position of the switch and the state of the doors, on-board voltage (+12 V) is constantly present at one of the terminals of the flashlight, so before replacing the lamp, you must disconnect one terminal of the battery or turn on the ground switch.

Fuse location

The next most difficult problem to troubleshoot is failure of the fuse (insert). You just need to know which one and where to find it. The fuse responsible for interior lighting is located in the mounting block, and the block itself is located in the engine compartment, immediately behind the windshield opposite the passenger seat. In the photo below it is marked with the number 5 and covered with a protective cover.

Location of the mounting block in the VAZ 2107

Depending on the modification and year of manufacture, the car can be equipped with one of two types of mounting blocks. The old-style device looks like this:

Mounting block VAZ 2107 old model

And the new one is like this:

New model VAZ 2107 mounting block

The fuses (there are 17 in total) for the old model are numbered in order from left to right:

Numbering of old-style mounting block fuses

It is not clear what guided the developers of the VAZ 2107, but in the new model it is quite difficult to find logic in the numbering of inserts.

Numbering of fuses in the new type mounting block

In both modifications, the F11 insert with a rating of 8 (old block) or 10 (new block) amperes is responsible for interior lighting.

But before we get into the mounting block, let’s try to determine the serviceability of the insert logically. In addition to the interior lighting, the insert powers the brake signal lamps (brake lights) and the trunk lighting lamp.

If they work, then the fuse is probably good, and you don’t have to go under the hood for now. If they don’t work, we climb under the hood, open the mounting block and check the serviceability of the insert.

If we change, then only for an insert of the same denomination.

Switches malfunction

Now let's move on to checking the switches. There are 6 of them in total: two in the lampshades, four end ones in the doors. But, of course, you don’t have to check all 6 - just understand the power supply circuit for the room lights and think a little to logically figure out the faulty switch.

Backlight connection diagram

The power supply circuit for the VAZ 2107 interior lighting lights is quite simple, and anyone familiar with the basics of electrical engineering can understand it:

Electrical diagram for connecting interior lights

The numbers on the diagram indicate:

• 1 – mounting block;
• 2 – switches (limit switches) located in the front door pillars;
• 3 – switches (limit switches) located in the rear door pillars;
• 4 – lampshades with built-in switches.

We are not interested in the remaining positions. As can be seen from the diagram, all door switches are connected in parallel and one contact is connected to the middle terminal of both lights, and the other to the car body. The lights are connected to the body by the second terminal, and +12 volts are constantly supplied to the third terminal, regardless of the position of any switches, including the ignition switch.

How does the scheme work? We move the lamp switch to the right position according to the diagram, the lamp is connected to the car body, the light comes on. We move it to the left - the door switches are connected in series with the light bulb. Now the lamp will light up only if one of the doors opens. That's the whole algorithm.

Checking and replacing door limit switches

Which limit switch is faulty? If both interior lights work in the right position according to the diagram, but do not light up when any of the doors is opened (the switch is in the left position), then the problem is in the switch of this door. If they always light up when the doors are closed, you will have to check all 4 door limit switches. This is not difficult to do. We open the door and find the limit switch. It is located on the door pillar.

Door switch location

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the fixing screw and remove the switch

Removing the door switch VAZ 2107

If before this the lamp was constantly on, and we pulled out the faulty limit switch, then the lamp should go out. Fault found. We buy a new one and change it.

If the flashlight did not respond to the opening of a door, then dismantle its limit switch, pull off the wire from it (it is on the blade connector) and connect this wire to an unpainted part of the body.

Did the lantern light up? Fault found. We buy a new limit switch and change it.

Checking and repairing the lamp switch

If the interior lighting lamp does not react to open doors at all and does not turn on with the right lamp switch according to the diagram, and the second one works as expected, then you will have to check this switch in the “dead” lamp.

We remove the lampshade (see the section “How to replace lamps”), disconnect the three blade blocks. Using two pieces of wire, we apply voltage from the battery to the terminals, as shown in the photo:

Diagram for connecting the interior light to the battery for testing

When “minus” is applied to the middle terminal, the lamp should light up when the switch is moved to the upper position.

If “minus” is applied to the lower contact, the lamp lights up when the switch is moved to the lower position. If everything is so, the flashlight is working.

If not, then buy a new one or disassemble this one and clean the contacts.

Important! Before disconnecting the wires from the lampshade, you need to mark them or write down the colors, so that later you can correctly assemble the circuit and not confuse anything.

If we chose the second option, then we will need:

• soldering iron;
• stationery or mounting knife;
• fine-grained sandpaper.

Theoretically, the interior lighting lamp is non-separable - it is assembled with plastic rivets. But nevertheless, you can open it. Turn on the soldering iron, place the lampshade with the rivets facing up and heat the riveted part of the rivets with the soldering iron.

Soldering rivets

Before the plastic hardens, we cut it off with a utility knife, but without fanaticism - we still have to solder them back. Turn the lampshade over with the rivets facing down and remove the side trim.

Removing the side cover from the lampshade

We carefully examine the insides of the switch so that we can assemble it later, and take out the switch button, pushing it down.

Important! At the end of the button pusher there is a spring-loaded ball, which, like a sparrow, flies out - you won’t catch it. We remove the key with extreme caution, making sure that the ball and the spring do not fly away in an unknown direction.

There is a spring-loaded ball on the key follower

Using fine-grained sandpaper, we clean the contacts: both the movable one and the two fixed ones. We assemble the lantern and solder the rivets. We check the operation of the switch, as described above, and install it in place.

Determining what doesn't work

Before you begin work on removing the instrument panel and changing light bulbs, you need to visually determine which of them are out of order. If the panel is not illuminated at all, there are several options for where to start checking.

Circuit breakers

First, check the fuses; they are located in the mounting block under the hood on the right side (in the photo under No. 5).

Fuse F10 is responsible for the instrument panel.

Brightness control

This is a variable resistor, located to the right of the steering wheel, near the clock. With its help, the intensity of illumination of instruments and control lamps is changed. It rarely fails, but sometimes it fails.

To check the regulator, you need to remove the plastic insert where it is located along with the clock and cigarette lighter. Pry it off with a flathead screwdriver. After this, disconnect the power supply and remove the plastic round handle by pulling it towards you. Using a socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the regulator to the liner and remove it.

The functionality of the regulator can be checked using a multimeter. If the resistor is faulty, replace it with a new one.

It should be borne in mind that when working with electrical equipment, it is necessary to disconnect the power supply from the battery.

Faulty incandescent lamps

If everything you did above did not produce results, you need to remove the panel and check all the light bulbs.

Failure of incandescent lamps involves burnout of the tungsten filament. In another case, there may be physical impact on the lighting device, after which it will not be able to function.

You can check it visually, one by one removing the electronic board from the sockets and inspecting the integrity of the tungsten filament. Or using a multimeter.

To eliminate all the reasons why lighting and signaling devices may not work, it is worth checking the integrity of the conductive paths printed on the electronic board.

Due to environmental influences, they oxidize and break down. It's not difficult to fix. It is necessary to find, clean and solder. It is also worth checking the terminals connecting the wires.

Popular faults

If we talk about the dashboard of VAZ 2109 cars, then they are characterized by certain problems. We will tell you about them, and also tell you how to act correctly in a given situation.

The instrument panel of the VAZ 2109 is not so complicated that you cannot figure it out on your own. But in the absence of experience, it is better to entrust the repair to specialists, or to enlist the support of a partner who understands this matter.

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.

The main causes of malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 cigarette lighter

The cigarette lighter of the VAZ 2107 quite often fails. This happens for various reasons.

Fuse blown

If the cigarette lighter is used as a power outlet to operate multiple high-power devices through a power strip, the cigarette lighter fuse, rated for a maximum current of 10 A, may blow. Due to the peculiarities of the VAZ 2107 electrical connection diagram, the clock and radio will stop working along with the cigarette lighter.

Poor contact or oxidation

Sometimes the cigarette lighter contacts or connectors become oxidized and the device stops working. In such a situation, they must be cleaned by first disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. The latter will eliminate the possibility of a short circuit. In addition, often the connector of the device connected to the cigarette lighter does not fit into the socket tightly enough. Such unreliable contact can lead to short circuits, melting of contacts and failure of the cigarette lighter. The contacts may also melt when installing a fuse of a higher rating (for example, 15 A). In such cases, you can try to clean and resolder the contacts. If this does not lead to a positive result, the cigarette lighter will need to be replaced with a new one. The cost of a new device for the VAZ 2107 is about 150 rubles.

Sometimes the cigarette lighter coil burns out. In this case, the device is replaced with a new one.

Broken electrical wiring

The cigarette lighter may stop working due to pinching or chafing of the wires, followed by broken contacts. You can diagnose this situation using a multimeter by testing the wiring of the cigarette lighter connection circuit.

After finding the damaged section of the wiring, it is replaced with a new one.

Particular attention should be paid to the integrity of the wire insulation - this will reduce the likelihood of a short circuit and fire to a minimum.

Floor lighting

One of the popular and modern methods of tuning is the production of floor lighting with a 12 V LED strip.

Many people are interested in where the wires go in this case:

1. The tape at the driver’s feet extends from the steering column, and a bundle of wires for connection is also located there.
2. If you are lighting the passenger seat, the wires should be at the passenger's feet.
3. To illuminate the rear seat, the tape is placed under the shelf.

Car enthusiasts can even place LEDs in the trunk or on the bottom of the car. It looks unusual and beautiful. For the floor, bottom, trunk, it is recommended to choose types of tapes that are protected from moisture and contamination. They cost an order of magnitude more. Don’t try to save money, buy only high-quality LEDs. Carefully insulate the backlight connection points to prevent short circuits and protect the wiring from combustion.

Choose the color of the ribbon yourself. The most advantageous option is to match the color of the car with the shade of the backlight. You can choose exotic combinations. Some drivers of such cars specially repaint the body or cover the interior with leatherette. This requires a significant investment of effort. Large-scale tuning is recommended only for those who are familiar with the intricacies of this work.

Installing a lampshade from Kalina on a VAZ 2105

Interior lighting for VAZ 2105

clearly not enough, there is practically no sense from the standard lamps installed on the side pillars.
They, of course, emit light, but they do it extremely inefficiently. So it is necessary to modify the interior of the car and install a courtesy lamp from Kalina on a VAZ 2105
.

First, we remove the safety visor trim, this is done by unscrewing the rear view mirror and removing the sun visor, then unscrew a couple of bolts securing the visor. Now the work will be done directly with the lampshade from Kalina. We remove the protective cover from it and mark its contours on a sheet of paper. After the outline of the lampshade has been drawn on the paper, you need to cut out the template. It is recommended to cut 5 mm less than the original contour of the lampshade, since it is preferable to cut the hole rather than drill a hole in the ceiling. So, apply the template tightly and use a knife to cut out a hole. As a result, it will be discovered that due to the metal back plate, the lampshade will not fit into the prepared hole. At this stage, a jigsaw will come in handy; with its help, we make a hole in the metal along the contour. Don’t forget to try on the lampshade in a timely manner, trimming the hole in the right places. It is also necessary to shorten the legs of the lampshade so that they are lower than the level of the metal trim. There is a stop at the back of the lamp, so it only needs to be secured from the front. To do this, you can use a strip of iron and secure them with screws and washers. The lampshade is securely fastened, all that remains is to insert the light bulbs and put on the protective cover. The next stage is installation on a VAZ 2105

overlays with built-in lampshade.

Now we need to supply the food. You can get power from the side lamp, and lay the wire under the door seals. The lampshade has three wires, two of which are negative wires, and one is a permanent positive wire. Another power supply option is to connect it to a cigarette lighter. The positive wire is connected there, and the ground contact is connected to the limit switch, which is on the front doors. So when the doors are opened, the lamp will begin to emit light. In this case, the central light was too bright. When it was turned on, the glass became like a mirror, that is, the visibility of what was happening on the street disappeared. This light bulb was replaced with a triple blue LED. The glow from the side lights is quite enough, you can calmly read a book without straining your eyes. But if you like bright light, then you can leave the standard lamp. If this is not enough, then a small piece of foil tape is glued inside the lampshade, then the glow will become even brighter. The installation does not take too much time and you can do it yourself. Plus, such a modification does not require any adjustments in the technical regulations of the VAZ 2105

, during a technical inspection, such an installation will not cause any complaints. If necessary, it is possible to select different colors, but in this case it would be best to use standard yellow or white, because they provide sufficient visibility and are not irritating to the eyes.

How to disassemble the lampshade and replace the lamp

In this section we will find out how to remove the lampshade of the Lada Priora “Norma” and replace the lamp. To work, we will need a small flat-head screwdriver and, of course, a new C5W lamp.

We insert a screwdriver under the passenger side glass and push it down, overcoming the force of the spring latch. We fold the glass down and remove the latches on the driver's side from engagement with the lamp.

Removing glass from the interior lighting of the Lada Priora “Norma”

In front of us is a light bulb, clamped with spring contacts. We simply pull it out and install a new one in place of the burnt one.

Replacing the interior light bulb of Lada Priora “Norma”

As for repairing lamps on the Lada Priora “Lux”, we will not do this, since replacing LEDs will require not only knowledge of radio engineering, but also the ability to hold a soldering iron. If you have such knowledge, then you can watch a video about replacing LEDs in the Lux rear light.

Replacing the LED in the rear interior lighting lamp of Lada Priora “Lux”

VAZ “classic” - do-it-yourself lighting of internal and external handles

Cars from the classic VAZ range are still valued today for their unpretentiousness, low price and, most importantly, for their tuning capabilities in the most global sense of the word. There is quite a wide scope for creativity when using various lighting options, in particular, the illumination of the internal and external handles of a car, made by yourself, looks very unobtrusive and elegant

General idea for improvement

The main idea of ​​the proposed modification is to supplement the handles with LED power sources and power them through a control relay from the door limit switches, which normally supply power to the interior lighting.

In other words, and according to the attached diagram, the LED backlight is connected as follows:

• From the door switch KN1 (which controls the interior lamp) we take -12V;
• Through a white wire with a black stripe we use -12V going through the limit switches KN2-KN4 of the other three doors;
• The +12V power supply (white wire) can be taken, again, from the lampshade;
• We connect a 5-pin relay with normally closed contacts according to the contact numbering.

As a result, we obtain an operating algorithm according to which, when any door is opened, the lines of LEDs LED1-LED3-LED4 begin to glow. At the same time, LED2 and LED3 will light up on open doors. In a situation when another door opens, LED1-LED3-LED4 also light up on it, and if LED2 was on before, then the power from it will switch to LED1 (on closed doors, LED2 and LED3 continue to light). The rest of the doors work using the same logic.

Please note that if the final result is expected in accordance with the “plan,” it is recommended to use internal handles from earlier VAZ models, namely those made of foam rubber and equipped with chrome moldings. With other options, it will be somewhat more difficult to implement the idea

Refinement of internal handles

• We take out the molding and remove the chrome film from it with any suitable tool;
• We lightly sand the plastic of the cleaned molding in order to obtain the necessary diffusion of LED light;

In accordance with our preferences, we mark out the niches for the side lamps (not forgetting that cutting the LED strip depends on the multiplicity of the elements) and cut out the corresponding holes;

• From any plastic at hand (suitable, for example, from an old fluorescent lamp), we cut strips that will cover both the moldings and the white light shades. In the absence of suitable plastic, a fairly wide selection of material is available in any advertising agency;
• Heating the strips on the moldings using a technical hair dryer, bend them along the profile of the handles;
• We glue the tape with red LEDs into the groove of the molding, install the molding in place, which, in turn, is covered with matte plastic;

As for the lampshade for white light, for reliability it is recommended to make it two-layer (where the top layer must be matte, and an LED strip is laid between the layers). The length of the wire from the LED strip should be enough to lay through the handle itself and the door trim;

Finally, all that remains is to drill holes for the wiring, stretch the wires and install the handles in their places.

Refinement of external handles

• We dismantle the handles and, in accordance with its configuration, determine the shape and placement of the lampshades;
• Lampshades for external handles should be three-sectional (the outer sections are white and the central section is colored, in our case orange). If there are no LEDs of the required color, you can use reflectors, rear light lenses, etc. Accordingly, three wires should come from each lamp: one common and one each for the white and colored sections;
• Again, we drill holes for the wiring, and secure the lampshades themselves with glue. Don't forget to install protective rubber bands in the technological holes.

We choose the location under the relay at our discretion, for example, you can scroll it to the handle mounting pin.

Tags Tuning, VAZ, do it yourself

What to do if the battery is boiling

You can conclude that the VAZ-2107 battery is “boiling” if the following problems occur:

• the corresponding indicator stops lighting;
• the voltmeter behaves inappropriately, and its needle goes to the right;
• A characteristic odor appears in the car interior.

“Boiling” of the battery is caused by problems with the voltage stabilizer. It is strictly forbidden to continue driving the car in such a situation: this can lead to breakdowns of all electrical equipment in the car. In order to get to the service center with safety for yourself and the car, you should forcefully turn off the generator set.

This can be done by physically removing the wire from the terminal with the abbreviation “61” located on the generator itself. The car will continue to move solely using the accumulated charge.