At the beginning of summer, a problem appeared: it stopped starting with the key... You turn the key, but it is silent. So the crazy time began, either using a screwdriver to revive the starter, or simply cleaning the contacts. The most interesting thing is that I noticed that this most often happens when it’s hot, but we didn’t know how to start it with the headlights on! I already wrote a couple of days ago, I finally decided to figure out the problem, I had time, I stopped by for repairs, we have wonderful people in the Metallurgical district of the city, they are rummaging around. They immediately offered to install a relay, but... in 2.5 years of owning the viburnum, I have never messed with the starter, I asked them to look at it, well, just in case, in the winter. He felt bad, but as it turned out, okay, we cleaned it up, did everything necessary, and we’re moving on! It's starting! But, they said as soon as the brain starts to float, come install the relay. Happiness lasted half a day, that evening I went to play Auto-hide and seek” and it started again, hood, screwdriver, anger, and everything in a circle. Why pay three hundred rubles to install a relay? I went there myself and bought a relay (four-pin) and a socket for it. At home I picked up the wires, not very thin, printed out this simple diagram, which I stole from the same site, and assembled everything in about 15 minutes. For the longest time I was looking for a place where to install the relay, in Kalina it’s not easy, it’s scary to put it under the expansion valve, anything can happen. I found it, there was a threaded hole in the spar, I picked up the bolt, and it was done. I’ll be honest, no matter how I tested it yesterday, I left the headlights on and gave it a load, and it starts with half a kick. I'm glad!
Where is the starter relay located on Lada Kalina?
Car : Lada Kalina. Asks : Vitaly Smirnov. The essence of the question : the starter is silent, there is a problem with the starter relay, where is it located?
Good afternoon, I came to the car this morning and couldn’t start it. The starter is generally silent and does not want to react in any way. I have already checked everything under the hood, there is no damage to the wires, and the battery is also fine. I think that the starter relay may be faulty, but I don’t know where it is located, please tell me.
What's the result?
As you can see, the starter circuit involves two types of relays: a solenoid relay and a relay in the control circuit. In this case, it is easier to start checking with the relay in the circuit, after which the traction relay is checked further. In any case, comprehensive diagnostics allows you to identify the faulty element, after which it is possible to efficiently eliminate the breakdown.
We also recommend reading the article about why the starter clicks but does not turn. In this article, you will learn about the main reasons why your car starter makes a clicking noise but does not turn the engine.
Finally, we note that if the starter does not respond to the ignition key or the starter clicks but does not turn, on any car (including the Lada Kalina) you must first study the starter circuit, and then use the methods discussed above to check all potentially faulty elements.
This approach will allow you to quickly localize the fault and often simplify repairs. By the way, usually relays are not repaired, but replaced immediately, since in the case of a VAZ, the cost of such parts is quite affordable. As for the replacement itself, as a rule, even car enthusiasts without much experience are quite capable of replacing the starter relay in the circuit or the starter solenoid relay with their own hands in an ordinary garage.
The starter relay is located in the mounting block
Gained access to the fuse box
Finding the starter relay is very simple; it is located in the mounting fuse block on the left side of the steering column, on the cover of which the controls for the instrument panel illumination and the direction of the headlight beam are mounted.
Before starting work, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- In order to dismantle it, carefully lift the edge of the lid with your hand and release it down.
- On the inside of the cover there is a diagram of the location and purpose of the relays themselves.
- In the photo, a red marker indicates the location of the starter relay in place of K3.
Replace the non-working relay with a new one
When installing a new relay, make sure it matches the current ratings indicated on the relay body.
What to look for when buying a new relay
You should purchase spare parts from official dealers and Lada specialized stores. There are a huge number of fakes and analogues from China on the auto parts market, which are much cheaper. However, the characteristics and service life of such products are significantly lower than stated. Whether it is worth saving in this way is up to the car owner to decide. The price of the original starts from 600 rubles.
To extend the service life of the new spare part, it is recommended to make a small tuning by installing an additional four-contact relay with metal ears from 30A to 40A.
Relay and fuse box Lada Kalina
Before replacing the fuse, the cause of the blown fuse must be determined and eliminated. To avoid failure of elements of the engine control system, do not install fuses with an increased rating or homemade ones. Sometimes the fuse thread remains intact, while its connection inside the fuse is broken. It is impossible to visually determine such a malfunction. In this case, you can assess the condition of the fuse using an ohmmeter. You will find a full description of viburnum fuses below.
Where is the Kalina relay and fuse mounting block located.
On the left side, behind the exterior lighting control panel.
1. By pulling the tab on the left side of the instrument panel, open the cover of the mounting block.
2. Here is the mounting block itself.
To get a better look at the location of the viburnum fuses, click on the image.
Purpose of viburnum fuses located in the car interior block.
Mounting block of fuses and relays: 1 - installation location of the headlight wiper relay, K1; 2 — headlight high beam relay, K7; 3 — relay for turning on the sound signal K8; 4 — relay for turning on power windows of viburnum doors, K2; 5 — installation location of the fog light relay, K9; 6 — starter relay; 7 — relay for turning on the heated rear window, K10; 8 - additional relay, K4; 9 — seat heating relay, K11; 10 — relay for turning on direction indicators and hazard warning lights, K5; 11 — installation location of the backup viburnum relay, K12; 12 — relay for turning on the windshield wiper and windshield washer, K6; 13 — tweezers for removing fuses and relays with a small housing; 14 — tweezers for removing the relay; 15 - spare fuses; 16 — installation location of the ABS fuse, F28: 17 — electric power steering fuse, F27; 18 - fuses F1-F26
Decoding the relays and fuses in the main block of the Lada Kalina.
Causes of malfunctions and their diagnosis
After removing the device from the car, it is recommended to conduct a detailed visual inspection for external defects. The list of the most common reasons for failure includes:
- The fastening nuts of the wires coming from the relay are loosened.
- Oxidation of wires.
- There is a break in the electrical power circuit.
- Incorrect operation of the anchor.
- Short circuit between winding turns.
The component must be removed and inspected for damage.
If the relay is faulty, it is not recommended to repair it yourself. The most you can do yourself is to change worn out graphite brushes or bendix. Otherwise, there is a high risk of damaging the entire engine starting system. Replacement with a new one is recommended. All replacement steps are listed above.
Fuses and relays in Lada Kalina, electrical diagrams
If one or another electrical device in your Kalina has stopped working - headlights, low or high beams, cigarette lighter, stove, turn signals, as well as other devices, then the first thing you need to do is find the cause of the malfunction, in particular, check the fuses and relays in the Lada Kalina.
The first thing to check in electrical circuits is the fuses, because they are the weakest point of the circuit and are usually the first to fail. Read on to learn about which fuses do what in the Lada Kalina, as well as where the relays are located and how to find the right one.
If you do not want to get into an unpleasant situation when, due to a blown fuse, one or another device refuses to work, but you don’t have a whole one at hand, it is useful to make it a rule to always carry with you a set consisting of different fuses.
For the Lada Kalina, you can buy a similar set at any auto store that sells auto parts for domestic cars. It takes up very little space, but its benefits in case of failure will significantly reduce your time to fix the problem.
Relay and fuse box
The fuses in the Lada Kalina are located under the dashboard, in a block located to the left of the steering wheel. To get to it, you need to open the cover in which the headlight switch is built in. The lid has latches; if you pull it towards you by the upper part, it will open and fold down (its lower part is fixed on an axis).
F1 (10 A) - immobilizer, dashboard lamps and sensors, reversing light, turn signals . If any of the gauges on your dashboard stop working, or one or all of the warning lights stop lighting up, check that fuse, as well as the gauges or bulbs themselves. If the rear white light does not come on when you engage reverse gear, it could also be this fuse or the reverse switch.
The reverse switch is located on the transmission, to change it you will most likely need to remove the engine cover to get to it. Located on the left side in the direction of travel on the rear of the gearbox. If the turn signals do not work and this fuse is intact, also check relay K5, the turn signal control knob, its connector, as well as the turn signal lamps themselves.
F2 (30 A) - electric windows . If the power windows stop working, check this fuse, as well as relay K2. If the fuse and relay are good, there could be a number of reasons. First, try pressing the power window button and slamming the door. If the mechanism “bites” when the glass is raised, this may help.
Otherwise, you need to disassemble the casing and look at the mechanism. When disassembling, you need to check the serviceability of the gears and all components of the window lifter, including the motor brushes. It could also be a problem with the power window module. It is located in the left rear door; if there is something wrong with it, then most likely you will have to change this module to a working one.
F3 (10 A) - alarm.
If the emergency lights do not work and this fuse is good, check relay K5. If your left or right turn signals come on and are constantly on, even when you turn off the ignition, this is a factory defect. In this case, it is necessary to replace the body electronics control unit. This can be done in official salons.
F4 (20 A) - windshield wiper, heated rear window . If the windshield wipers do not work and this fuse is intact, also check relays K4 and K6. The issue may be in the windshield wiper motor or its mechanism. Check the wiper switch and its connector.
If the rear window heating does not work, check fuse F8, the heater terminals, their contacts, as well as the contacts of this fuse and relay K6. Another issue could be poor contact on the body. The wiring ground is connected to the body under the dashboard. If there is poor or oxidized contact in this area, it can also cause problems with the correct readings on the panel instruments.
F5 (25 A) - heater, electric power steering, windshield washer . If this fuse and relay K4 are intact and the stove does not work, the problem may be in its electric motor (brushes) or the power button, as well as its contacts. If the electric power steering does not work, this fuse and fuse F31 are intact, then it is better to contact a workshop, because it will be difficult to find and fix this malfunction yourself.
F6 (20 A) - sound signal.
If this fuse and relay K8 are working, but the signal does not work, check the horn itself. It is located under the front bumper near the radiator. Sometimes it is enough to turn the tone adjustment screw. The location is inconvenient because water can easily get into it; alternatively, you can reinstall it in a higher place, or install another horn that is less sensitive to water and moisture.
F7 (10A) - LCD dashboard indicator, brake lights, interior lighting . If your brake lights don't work, check this fuse. If it is intact, check the brake light switch, which is located at the base of the brake pedal; it is a round piece with two wires connected to its terminals. If this is the case, then replacing it will help. Costs about 100 rubles. Also check the bulbs in the taillights. If one brake light does not light, then the lamp is most likely burned out. If both signals do not light up, then most likely the problem is in the relay, fuse or switch.
F8 (20 A) - rear window heating element . If the rear window does not fog up when the heating is on, check this fuse, relays K4 and K10, and fuse F4.
F9 (5 A) - right side lamps, lamp in the glove box . If the right side does not work - the right front and right rear lights do not light up, check this fuse, as well as the lamps themselves.
F10 (5 A) - left side lamps, control lamp for turning on the lighting on the dashboard, license plate lamps . Similar to the previous one.
F11 (7.5 A) - rear fog lamps.
F12 (7.5 A) - right low beam lamp, right headlight range control motor . F13 (7.5 A) - left low beam lamp, left headlight range control motor . If one of the low beam headlights does not light, check one of these fuses, as well as the lamp itself. If both headlights do not work, check the serviceability of the light switch, its connector, as well as the lamps themselves (it also happens that both burn out at the same time).
F14 (10 A) - right high beam lamp, high beam indicator lamp on the dashboard . F15 (10 A) - left high beam lamp . If the high beams do not work, also check relay K7. If it fails, replace it. It could also be the lamps themselves, the wiring, the high beam switch and its connector.
F16, 17 (10 A) - front fog lamps.
F18 (15 A) - heated seats.
F19 (10 A) - ABS . If the fuse is good, but the ABS does not work, most likely one of its mechanisms has stopped working. If the ABS warning light on the dashboard is on, it means one of its elements has failed. It is necessary to diagnose the fault codes and eliminate the cause.
F20 (15 A) - cigarette lighter . Frequent problems with Kalina's cigarette lighter can be caused by its non-standard configuration. When connecting various connectors, proper fixation does not occur, so there may be short circuits, which causes the fuse to fail. Alternatively, you can install an additional connector or use a splitter with 12 V sockets.
F21 (10 A) - gearbox reverse lock.
F22 (15 A) - alarm control unit.
F23 - reserve F24 - reserve F25 - reserve
F26 (25 A) - ABS . Same as F19.
F27 (5 A) - spare F28 (7.5 A) - spare F29 (10 A) - spare F30 (20 A) - spare
F31 (50 A) - electric power steering . If the steering wheel is difficult to turn, check this fuse as well as fuse F5. If the cause of the malfunction cannot be determined, contact a car service center, because steering is a serious thing that affects safety. There may be something wrong with the control unit or wiring.
Relay location
The relays are in the same block as the fuses.
K1 - headlight washer . If the washers stop working and this relay is working properly, check their nozzles. Sometimes they become clogged or damaged.
K2 - electric windows . Check this relay together with fuse F2. See F2 for troubleshooting.
Short circuit - starter relay . If you turn the ignition key and the starter does not turn, it may be the relay. Check its contacts and clean them if necessary. Next, you need to check the battery terminals so that there is reliable contact between them, and if necessary, clean them. Also check the contact group of the ignition switch, there may be no contact there.
K4 - additional relay, rear window defroster, heater switch, wiper and washer switch .
K5 - relay-breaker for turn signals and hazard warning lights . If the direction indicators or hazard lights do not work, check this relay together with fuses F1 and F3.
K6 - windshield wiper relay . Check together with fuse F4.
K7 - high beam relay . Check together with fuses F14 and F15.
K8 - sound signal . Check together with fuse F6.
K9 - fog lights . Check together with fuses F16 and F17.
K10 - heated rear window . Also check relay K4 and fuses F4 and F8.
K11 - heated seats . Also check fuse F18.
K12 - reserve.
Power fuses
The main power fuses and the diagnostic connector are located under the cover next to the cigarette lighter.
I hope this article will help solve your electrical problem. Just in case, take with you spare fuses and, if possible, relays, then you won’t have to look for them at the most inopportune moment or during auto shop hours.
You can also read about Lada Granta fuses, if you have such a model in your fleet.
If you have any questions about electrical or history, you can write them in the comments.
Possible starter malfunctions
If the Lada Kalina does not start, the following typical malfunctions are possible:
- when starting the power unit, all devices do not work;
- when the short circuit is moved to the start position, the starter does not turn on;
- the starter does not turn on the first time;
- the starter turns, but the crankshaft does not turn;
- When starting up, the device rotates slowly.
If after starting the engine all the instruments go out, this means that there is no power supply. You should check the terminals and state of charge of the battery. If after starting the starter does not work, then you need to check its serviceability (the author of the video is Expert R).
It is better to start troubleshooting without removing the device from the car. First, use a screwdriver to connect the solenoid relay bolts at the top and bottom. As a result, the electric motor should start working, but without rotating the crankshaft. It should rotate freely, and there should be no extraneous sounds or noises.
After checking the electric motor, you need to remove the wire from the control terminal of the traction relay and bridge it and the upper bolt with a screwdriver. After switching on, the engine crankshaft should begin to rotate. If everything works fine, you need to look for the fault in the retractor circuit.
First you need to check the trigger relay located in the mounting block, replacing it with a known good element. If the starting device works, then you need to replace the faulty relay. Otherwise, you need to check the power circuit. To do this, insert a jumper into sockets 87 and 30.
Mounting block Kalina
When you turn the key ZZ, the engine should start, otherwise you should check with a test light whether 12V voltage is supplied to socket 30. One end of the test light should be touched to terminal 30, and the other should be connected to ground. The light should be on. Otherwise, damage to the current-carrying path may occur.
If the circuit is not damaged, we check the contact group 33 by connecting the ends of the test lamp to connectors 85 and 86. If, when starting the engine, the light comes on, this indicates that everything is in order with the contact group. Otherwise, it will need to be repaired.
Replacing the traction relay
The retractor is checked for serviceability by connecting its bolt located on top to the control terminal. When closed, the relay should operate. Otherwise, check the battery charging and the condition of its terminals. If the traction relay is broken, it should be dismantled and check whether the windings are working properly. If the relay is in working condition, you need to check the wear of the brushes.
If after starting the starter does not turn and the engine does not start the first time, then the traction relay needs to be replaced. It is possible that the reason is burnt contacts on the electric motor. If the device turns on but rotates slowly, you should check the voltage at the battery terminals with an ohmmeter. For successful startup, the voltage should not be lower than 9V. Otherwise, repairs are needed. The cause of the problem may be bushings, brushes, or the stator magnet may have fallen off.
If the starter spins but the crankshaft does not rotate, then the device requires repair. In this case, the following malfunctions are possible: the bendix rotates, the flywheel crown is weakened, the textolite gear of the gearbox is broken.
Where are the fuses on Kalina and why are they needed?
Every vehicle is equipped with a fuse box. The first generation “Kalina” is equipped with 3 such devices: installation, control and additional. The second generation model, or as it is also called “Kalina 2”, is equipped with 2 blocks.
These elements are necessary not only to protect all vehicle electronics from combustion, but also prevent the occurrence of fire, because In the event of a short circuit, they take on the entire load. In this case, the fuse itself fails, thereby stopping the flow of current to the electrical appliance.
Operating principle and types of starters
When this mechanism operates, battery electricity is converted into mechanical energy. When the microcontacts of the electric ignition are closed, the starter relay contacts the clutch of the traction relay winding. When the anchor moves into the retractor housing, the bendix pushes out from there, and engagement occurs with the gear at the end of the flywheel.
The armature moves to the end where the contacts close, electricity goes to the starter motor winding. The self-start shaft begins to rotate, the car starts. The faster the flywheel rotates, the sooner the bendix disengages from the ring, and the return spring sets it in place.
As soon as the key in the ignition switch returns to its original position, the current stops flowing to the starter and the car stalls.
- With gearbox. Has reduced current requirements for efficient operation. If the battery charge is low, the crankshaft will still turn.
- Without gearbox. A simpler starter design allows direct rotation of the gear. This starter is easy to repair yourself. The gear engages instantly with the flywheel as soon as current is supplied to the electromagnetic switch. Ignition will be fast. This type of starter has endurance and breakdowns are practically excluded. The disadvantage of such devices is that at low temperatures it is not always possible to start the car.
Fuse types
Fuses are classified into cylindrical and blade. The first ones were used in the operation of old-style Russian cars. Knife-type elements are considered safer, more convenient and are used in all Lada Kalina cars.
Fuses also differ in the rated current indicated on the housing and in size. In addition, each value of the maximum permissible current has its own color, which also makes it possible to distinguish fuses without much difficulty.
Replacement
To replace the starter, you need to prepare a special tool that will be needed during the work process.
Required tool:
- Screwdrivers, flat and Phillips;
- Ratchet with heads for “13” and “15” mm;
- Open-end wrenches for “10” and “13” mm;
Step-by-step replacement instructions
- We turn off the power from the solenoid relay; to do this, unscrew the power cable with a key and disconnect the connector.
- Using a ratchet and an extension, unscrew the bolts securing the starter to the gearbox housing.
We perform assembly in reverse order.
Mounting block
Located under the instrument panel for controlling dimensions and headlights, on the driver's side to the left of the steering wheel. In this block, Kalina fuses are responsible for the safety of almost all installed electrical appliances. The location of the mounting block for car fuses of generations 1 and 2 is the same, but its diagram is different.
A breakdown of the Kalina fuses of the 1st and 2nd generations is presented below.
Control block
On the 1st generation Kalina it is installed under a cover in the center console. The fuses in this unit protect the most basic electronics. There is also a connector for injector diagnostics. On a 2nd generation car the unit is located under the hood, in the engine compartment.
Originals, analogues, articles and prices
The first modifications of the Lada Kalina were equipped with a starting device with the catalog number “21120-3708010-00” (KZATE). It was fixed to the block wall with three nuts.
After the release of the Lada Kalina with a cable-controlled gearbox, the method of fixing the PU changed to a screw one.
- 21120-3708010-00;
- 21901-3708023-00;
- 21120-3708045-00 (KATEK, KZATE, ZiT);
- 21901-3708051-00 (VALEO) (8 valves);
- 21902-3708056-00 (VALEO) (16 valves).
For automatic transmission type: Jatco – 21902-3708135-00.
The cost of PU varies depending on the modification. Base price from 3100 rubles. On models with a new type of fixation from 3400 – 3500 rubles.
Foreign analogues are no better in quality than domestic ones. The cost is 10 - 15% more expensive. Manufacturers: Blue Print, Bremi, Febi, Bilstein, Fenox, Glaser (see photo).
Where is the starter installed in a Lada Kalina car?
Many car enthusiasts wonder where the starter is located. As in many other brands, the PU is installed in the engine compartment, fixed at the end of the block on the flywheel side.
