DIY VAZ 2110 starter repair

One of the most important mechanisms of a vehicle is the starter unit. If its condition is critical, the car simply will not start. The starter, which is installed in a VAZ 2110 car, may stop functioning even while on the road.

To avoid this problem, it is necessary to constantly maintain the functionality of this unit. To do this, it is necessary to periodically evaluate its condition at service stations. However, if you understand the design of the car and have experience in repairing various units, you can carry out repair and diagnostic work on the starter unit yourself.

In general, the design of this unit is quite complex. To repair it yourself, you need to know exactly which part has failed, since a large number of parts can fail. Usually the mechanism stops functioning at any time.

However, most experts argue that problems can begin no earlier than 5 years after the release of the VAZ 2110 vehicle. For people who are far from repairing various automotive components, it is better to contact specialized service centers and stores to repair or replace a failed product.

The process of replacing the starter on a VAZ-2112

Old and new starter

We will need the new starter itself, keys “13” and “15”; we can also use heads and ratchets for convenience.

First of all, remove the negative terminal on the battery (this is necessary for safety, to avoid a short circuit).
Remove the terminal
Disconnect the wire at the traction relay.
The next step is to unscrew the starter using a ratchet and a 15mm socket 2 fasteners (one from the bottom).
Unscrew the starter fasteners
After the above operations, you can safely remove the starter.

Installing the starter is done in the reverse order, but for simplicity, here is a small and clear diagram of the connection to the starter relay:

Connection diagram of the starter to the car relay

Or according to this scheme:

More details here

What is a starter for?

Let's introduce a little theory about the ignition system and the starter itself.

The ignition system is necessary to start the engine; the starter itself is designed to create a powerful current (by passing, so to speak, through the starter winding). This is done so that this energy turns the flywheel half a turn.

Main starter components:

You can see more details in the picture.

Front cover with plain bearing.
Bendix (engagement drive).
Planetary reductor.
Rotor with collector.
Housing with stator.
Solenoid relay.
Brush unit.
The back cover has a plain bearing. You can see more details in the picture.

Reasons why it is necessary to replace the starter

The solenoid relay armature is broken.
Broken wiring.
Short circuit to negative.

Most of these reasons can be diagnosed if you try to start the engine by closing the contacts on the starter.

There are many reasons for the malfunction of the ignition system, and the starter is not always to blame, so before changing the part, make sure that it is definitely the problem. Check the relay and the presence of voltage at the starter terminals. More details in the material: why doesn’t the starter turn?

Doesn't it turn?

If the starter on an injection VAZ 2110 does not turn, there may be several reasons for this.

The culprit is the solenoid relay. If you insert the key, turn it, the instrument panel lights up, the fuel pump turns on, but when you turn it further, the panel goes out and the starter does not turn on, you should check the solenoid relay. Make sure there is voltage in it. Try closing the starter, turning off the alarm, which can also cause problems. If everything works separately, but in the end the starter does not turn on, then the reason is in the solenoid relay. It needs to be replaced with new ones and the problem will disappear.
Overrunning clutch does not work. You started a cold engine, drove a couple of tens of kilometers, stopped to get out for a couple of minutes, returned, and the starter clicks, but does not turn on your VAZ 2110. Only when the car cools down, you manage to start the engine. First of all, the overrunning clutch, or popularly Bendix, is to blame. Replace it with a geared analogue. Additionally, check the wires that go from the Bendix to the battery.
There are no contacts. The starter starts, but it is very difficult, making a lot of clicks. If the situation repeats regularly, be sure to check your contacts. The terminals are probably oxidized. Cleaning didn't work? Then check the ground contact with the car body and the starter contacts. For them, oxidation is a natural phenomenon. Another way is to ask a friend to turn the key in the ignition, and then hit the relay with a hard object a couple of times. If the car starts, then the closing contacts are simply stuck. But here it is better to completely replace all the relays than to repair and disassemble the unit.
The problem is in the immobilizer. It is not uncommon for the starter activation circuit on the injection VAZ 2110 to be disrupted due to the immobilizer. The engine may suddenly stall, the starter stops turning, and it is not possible to start it even with a push. The terminals are clean and the battery is charged. If the immobilizer is turned on, this may be the cause. Due to the protection being triggered, the engine does not respond. You will no longer be able to start the car, so call a tow truck and go to the nearest service station.
Problematic injector. We have examined almost all starter problems characteristic of a carburetor engine. But today the “tens” are injection ones. They don’t really like low-quality fuel, which VAZ 2110 owners so often like to refuel with. Therefore, the starter may not work for the simple reason that the injector is clogged or dirty. By performing a flush, you will eliminate the problem.

Reasons for replacing the starter

The required node is located in such a place that it is not always possible to examine it immediately.
However, if you look from a certain angle, this element is quite easy to find. Every part in a car wears out over time, and the starter is no exception. The most common reason for replacement is the appearance of clicks when turning the key. This phenomenon does not allow the engine to start. Another reason could be poor scrolling. When trying to start the internal combustion engine, you can observe that the mechanism is turning, but very weakly. In this case, it would be useful to check the battery.

Unusual noises (such as crackling noises) may occur. Such situations are quite simply determined.

Examination

In order to check whether the traction relay is working properly, you must first get to the starter. It is located under the hood, in a standard place for VAZs - on the left below the battery, near the gearbox.

The starter itself and the retractor are located in one housing, which also has two terminals. When dismantling or reinstalling the device, you should be extremely careful not to short-circuit these terminals.

You need to check the voltage limit that the traction relay has. The limit voltage is no more than 8V. In addition, the temperature during the actuation process should not be higher than 25°C, otherwise you will not get reliable operation and protection of the starter.

In addition, you can sometimes visually notice a breakdown. In this case, it is necessary to install a new mechanism, but first you need to disassemble it.

How to replace the starter

The simplest job is to replace the electric motor. For this you need to prepare the following tools:

13 mm and 15 mm socket heads;
handle equipped with a “ratchet”;
extension.

First of all, you will need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. This is necessary to ensure that no power is supplied to the electric motor. For ease of operation, the air filter housing should be removed. Next, follow the instructions:

It is necessary to disconnect the power wires from the solenoid relay: remove the red chip and unscrew the retaining nut. Move the wires to the side to give yourself room to manipulate.
Locate the nuts where the starter attaches to the transmission housing. Unscrew them to remove the electric motor. Most often, car enthusiasts miss the top nut, do not forget about it.
Once you remove the last nut, the starter can be removed with bare hands.

If you do not want to repair this unit, you can replace the removed electric motor with a new one. However, in order not to waste extra money, we recommend that you first inspect the starter and repair it, if possible.

How to check functionality

The functionality of the relay can be determined without removing it. We recommend performing this procedure before dismantling the unit. So, the starter and relay are united by a common housing with terminals. It is important to ensure that the terminals do not short-circuit with each other. Next, the check proceeds as follows:

It is necessary to measure the maximum voltage. The optimal value is no higher than 8V.
When the starter operates, the housing temperature should not exceed 25 degrees. Otherwise the node will not work efficiently.
Visually inspect the unit. Sometimes you can actually notice cracks or carbon deposits on it, which indicates its possible inoperability.

After this, you can begin to dismantle the device. After disassembly, you can more accurately determine the serviceability of the retractor and, if possible, eliminate it. In most cases, VAZ-2110 owners are advised to replace the relay with a new one.

Characteristics of the VAZ starter of the tenth model

Before installing a new starter on the VAZ 2110 and connecting it, let's look at the main characteristics. Let's consider the location and design of the VAZ 2110 starter.

What is a relay for?

Replacing the starter relay on a VAZ 2110

The traction relay ensures that the drive gear starts. Starting occurs in clutch with the gear mechanism of the crankshaft flywheel. It also provides power to the starter motor. When the starter is turned on, energy begins to be transferred from the battery. The energy path passes through the ignition switch.

This is interesting: Is it necessary to flush the engine when changing the oil?

VAZ 2110 additional starter relay

In this way, power is supplied to each winding of the traction relay. Windings have two types:

As soon as the process of closing the relay contacts takes place, the retractor winding is turned off. A working relay has a voltage limit that should not exceed 8 V. The temperature during this process should not exceed 25 degrees Celsius. If the voltage when starting the relay exceeds this indicator, then you should pay attention to the drive and the traction relay itself. They may become damaged or stop working. The traction relay can be visually examined. Perhaps the breakdown can be seen with the naked eye, but the starter will have to be dismantled and disassembled.

VAZ 2110 starter lock relay

How to remove and disassemble

To prepare for repairs, it is necessary to completely disassemble the starter. This procedure should be carried out in the following sequence:

Remove the negative battery terminal.
Remove the air filter housing to ensure convenience for further operations.
Disconnect the wire leading to the traction relay.
Place the disconnected wiring to the side so that it does not interfere with further repairs.
Unscrew the nuts that secure the starter to the gearbox.
Remove the unit and carry out further repairs in more convenient conditions.
Disconnect the wire that is in contact with the mounting bolt.
Remove the traction relay. To do this, you need to unscrew the two bolts that secure it.
Remove the relay armature. To do this, you need to lift it up a little, and then remove the loop from the lever.
Unscrew the nuts securing the tie rods.
Remove the cover with the drive, as well as the gearbox assembly.
Completely “remove” the tie rods. This will make it easier to further remove the drive and gearbox.
Remove the planetary gears. They need to be replaced if there is damage to the teeth or the integrity of the needle bearings is compromised.
Replace the brush holder assembly (if necessary).
Remove the cover from the manifold side.
Unscrew the two screws and then remove the brush holder from the cover.
Bend the clips and remove the spring.
Check the anchor for defects. To do this, you need to remove it from the case.
Remove the gear from the anchor shaft.
Remove the armature from the stator mechanism.
Remove the sealing support from the lever.
Knock the stopper off the retaining ring using a special mandrel.
Dismantle the restrictor and retaining rings.
Remove the drive assembly.

Relay test

In addition to problems associated with the relay, the cause sometimes lies in a malfunction of the control cable. You can find out by directly connecting the starter terminal to the positive terminal of the battery through a wire of a smaller cross-section. After connecting this connection, a problem in the starter will be detected. If not, then you should check the relay and ignition contacts.

Weak contact on the connections is not able to ensure the normal passage of electric current in full, so it makes sense to check all connections, especially in the power cable. For normal operation of the starter, 200 A is required. If the voltage is slightly lower than this indicator, then it will only be enough to start the retractor winding, the sign of which will be a click, but the car will not start.

If it doesn't start and the relay is new?

If, after checking and replacing the starter relay, the engine still does not start, the problem may also be in the battery itself, as well as in the starter itself. It is necessary to remove the starter for diagnostics.

Removing and replacing the starter tens

Such a repair operation associated with replacing the VAZ 2110 starter, the price of which is quite high, is carried out in the following order:

The negative contact from the battery (the so-called “ground”) is removed.
De-energize the wiring of the traction type relay.
Using a wrench set to “13”, release the positive contact of the starter.
Unscrew the starter fasteners to the motor clutch housing.
We dismantle the starter.
Using a “10” socket, it is necessary to remove the fasteners of the output section of the traction type relay.
Release the tip of the electrical wire.
Using a socket head at “8”, remove the relay fasteners.
Remove the sealing gasket between the relay and the front cover of the electric machine.
We remove the spring and relay armature from the front cover.
Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

After disassembling the starter, we begin to inspect it. On the Internet you can watch a video on replacing a VAZ 2110 starter, where all operations are shown in practice. This process starts with the anchor. If the collector becomes dirty or traces of burning are detected, it must be sanded with fine (“velvet”) sandpaper. If there is increased roughness or mica traces between the lamellas, it is necessary to “groove” the collector and carry out the same grinding course.

The anchor is replaced in the following cases:

if the core beat exceeds 0.08 mm;
if there is a yellow coating on the anchor shaft from bearing wear, it should be removed with a rag;
in the presence of burrs and other irregularities;
inspect the winding at the ends of the armature, the diameter of which should be less than the armature iron package;
when testing the “control” of the armature winding. The contacts must be connected to the collector plate and the armature core, and no voltage should be supplied. Otherwise, when the lamp lights up, the winding or collector plate may short-circuit to ground.

The starter drive is replaced in the following cases:

when the clutch is held, the gear receives free circular movement along the clock, and should not move against the clock;
free movement of the drive along the splined grooves of the shaft;
with significant wear of drive elements.

Timely replacement of the VAZ 2110 starter bushing will extend the time of effective operation of this electric unit. When inspecting the stator and detecting traces of the passage of the anchor element, it is necessary to change the feed cover and the intermediate type support.

Where is the starter on a VAZ 2112 16 valves?

Dear visitors of the site “All about cars”! We will be very grateful to you for your comments on the video clip “Where is the starter on the VAZ 2112 16 valves”, registration is not required for this. We also ask you to let us know if you have any problems playing the video.

Well, what was the reason? Contact group or relay

What couldn’t be checked with a screwdriver? without removing the starter

the anchor burned out there after all, I still initially sinned on the solenoid relay

It would be useless, because I wouldn’t shoot another video because of this. It burned out completely.

The other day the starter also stopped working. VAZ 2114 was standard Belarusian. Didn't even bother with the repairs. I bought a new KOTEK for 3t. R. It starts with a click and buzzes like a bee. I advise everyone

I’m a teapot, where else can I put the air down if there’s no snowdrift nearby?

4. 28 than the reason

The battery must be disconnected before removing the air flow sensor chip, and not after. So you can burn it.

But I still didn’t take any risks and postponed the repairs until the winter, which I advise you to do as well.

The video needs to be renamed. The title does not match the content. How did you remove the bottom mount? The name of the video is repairing the starter or the reasons for the starter dying.

Before removing the MAF chip, you need to remove the terminal from the battery, otherwise you can then buy a new one.

Change the ignition switch, same thing happened.

Why show the left details, something like an air blower, it’s already clear to everyone what it looks like and how to shoot it….

What was the problem?

And I add. I plugged in the relay and everything worked for me. I connected the lamp to the red wire before - the current was flowing... But the current was weak. I still haven't found the ignition relay. Therefore, the most likely cause is the ignition switch. But this is a disease, as I understand it, in the tags. So it's better to add extra. relay. The current on the wires drops less and the chisel starts up faster now: There is really a possibility that the connector is simply stuck on the retractor. Emery solves this problem.

So what was the reason? What's next? -Egnition lock? -Wiring?

write why do you need to remove the hood lock wire? and how to unscrew the starter bolt from below if there is no pit, lift, or garage.

the importance is in the little things, but they are not there, what and how to unscrew is not said or shown, there is no point in the video, I filmed it for one, don’t make it accessible to everyone, there is so much garbage on the Internet

Catalog number and cost of starter from third-party manufacturers

According to reviews from car owners, the quality of VAZ 2115 starters does not correspond to their cost. There are a large number of defects among the products. Therefore, experienced drivers recommend purchasing analogues of branded products from third-party manufacturers. The best alternative options for the original starter for the VAZ 2115, which have proven themselves well on the car, are presented in the table below.

Table - Good analogues of the original VAZ 2115 starter

Manufacturer	vendor code	Approximate cost, ruble
Startvolt	LST0115	2800—3500
HC Parts	CS332	2700—3600
As-pl	S9008	1800—2500
Bosch	986014950	7500-10000
Lucas Electrical	LRS00714	7200—9000

Starter device VAZ 2110 injector 8 valves

Lada 2110 8v tweet.

VAZ 2110 8 valve 2010.

VAZ 2110 engine injector for 14,500 rubles.

Advertisement for the sale of 8 valve engine VAZ 2110 / 2111 / 2112 in Saratov…

Logbook Lada 2110 is no longer stock). I decided to change the engine)

The ignition system of the 2110 engine is an injector.

Turbo VAZ 2110 8 valves.

VAZ 2110, 2002, 72 thousand km, 5500 USD

Buy injectors for VAZ 2110 8 valves.

The engine is in perfect condition, mileage after replacing rings and consumables is 234...

Lada 2110 8 valve.

VAZ 2110 2001 buy in Stavropol.

...VAZ 2109 Mechanical 2000 95000 km 1499 l 68/5600 Avito buy engine...

Buy VAZ 2110 1.6 8-valve Price 6300 USD

VAZ 2110 engine.

Control points of the VAZ 2110 body.

Photo VAZ 2110 8th grade.. engineer.

Selling very urgently VAZ 2110 16-cl injector overhaul of the engine in... mechanical...

Repair of VAZ 2110 8 valve engine with your own.

Selling VAZ 2110 1.5 engine 8 cl.

Repair of VAZ 2110 8 valve engine with your own.

VAZ 2110 8 class. 2005.

Replacement of valve oil seals for VAZ-2110, -2111 engines.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2110 engine repair 8 valves injector video.

Selling a VAZ 2110 Injector, 8 valve in good condition.

Lada 2110 8 valves.

How to remove the ceiling trim on a VAZ 2110.

The VAZ 2110 engine is in excellent condition.

The principle of operation of the starter and its main elements

With the help of the starter, the primary rotation of the engine crankshaft begins until the power unit starts up due to the ignition of the oxygen-gasoline mixture. This electric machine is a constant current EDC with 4 brushes of a four-pole type, which initiates the excitation moment using permanently installed magnetic elements, so replacing the VAZ 2110 starter is necessary in case of its failure.

It includes a freely rotating roller-type clutch, a traction relay with 2 windings, and a planetary gearbox. The traction relay with 2 windings is the most significant element of the starter. With its help, the drive gear is brought into engagement with the rim of the motor flywheel. In addition, it determines how the starter motor receives power.

Design and connection diagram

The price of a new VAZ 2110 starter is about 2500 rubles. It can be distinguished as the basis - an electric DC motor. It has two windings - rotor and stator. Moreover, you need to pay attention to the fact that power is supplied through a kind of switch (which also has an additional function) - a solenoid relay - to the stator windings. There are only four of them, connected as shown in this diagram:

Consequently, four brushes approach the rotor - two are connected to ground, and two to the second terminals of the windings. It is this switching circuit that allows you to achieve maximum power from the electric motor. If the VAZ 2110 starter does not turn, you will need to check the switching circuit first. Namely, the solenoid relay and the power wire for its winding. For clarity, take a look at the operation of the mechanism in different modes:

The solenoid relay is the most vulnerable part of the entire starting mechanism. The fact is that it is it that switches large currents. Just imagine that the minimum current value fluctuates in the range of 60..80 Amperes! And if the VAZ 2110 starter is faulty and its rotor jams, then the current consumption of the windings can increase to several hundred Amperes! The consequence is burning of the contacts and the inability to conduct electric current. The windings of the VAZ 2110 solenoid relay often burn out; in this case, you can’t even hear clicks when you turn the ignition key.

Now let's take a little look at how this whole system works:

If the VAZ 2110 starter traction relay is faulty, the entire unit will not be powered. The easiest way to check the serviceability is to close both power terminals of the solenoid relay with a screwdriver.

What is a starter

The VAZ-2110 is equipped with a starter with a gearbox, which has one advantage - it consumes less current. It is capable of ensuring rotation of the crankshaft even with a weak battery charge. Thanks to this feature, your car will start even in conditions where other models refuse to work. However, with prolonged use, the electric motor with gearbox may fail for no apparent reason. In this regard, starters without gearboxes are more advanced - they are easy to repair due to the simplicity of their design.

The electric motor on the VAZ-2110 consists of several elements:

drive shaft;
gear with inner ring;
shaft support equipped with a liner;
relay armature and its components (for example, core);
winding;
brushes;
magnet.

The most worn element is the brushes. During operation, they wear out, which is why they need to be replaced. Brushes are sold separately.

Which starter to install

The gear starter unit manufactured by KZATE with article number 5702.3708 is often installed in the VAZ 2110. The cost of this product is 3490 rubles
Kraft also supplies starters for a large number of VAZ vehicles. For model 2110, the product with article number 201003 is suitable. Most owners install this particular part for the price and quality. Its cost is 2850 rubles.

What to look for when buying a new relay

You should purchase spare parts from official dealers and Lada specialized stores. There are a huge number of fakes and analogues from China on the auto parts market, which are much cheaper. However, the characteristics and service life of such products are significantly lower than stated. Whether it is worth saving in this way is up to the car owner to decide. The price of the original starts from 600 rubles.

To extend the service life of the new spare part, it is recommended to make a small tuning by installing an additional four-contact relay with metal ears from 30A to 40A.

VAZ 2110 starter repair

Having disassembled the starter, we begin an external inspection of the product. All repair actions begin with an inspection of the anchor, which, if dirt and traces of combustion get on it, requires cleaning and grinding with fine-grained sandpaper. If there is large scuffing of the armature surface or traces of mica in the interturn spaces, it is necessary to “grind” the collector and grind it.

The starter armature is replaced in the following cases:

when the longitudinal runout of the core is more than 0.08 mm.
If there are yellow crystals on the armature axis due to increased bearing wear, they must be removed with a rag.
if irregularities and large roughness are identified.
with a reduced diameter of the end armature winding identified during external inspection.
when voltage is applied to the armature winding when checking with a “control” light bulb, which is connected to the collector plate and the armature core. It should not come, because... may cause a short circuit in the winding or commutator plate.

The starter drive is replaced in the following cases:

1. When holding the clutch, the gear receives free circular movement along the clock, and should not move against the clock. 2. Free movement of the drive along the splined grooves of the shaft. 3. If there is a lot of wear on the drive elements.

A timely replacement of the VAZ 2110 starter bushing will prolong the service life of this part and the entire electric machine as a whole. When diagnosing the starter visually and finding traces of the armature touching, you need to replace the rear starter casing and the intermediate support of the product.

The planned replacement of VAZ 2110 starter brushes is associated with wear of these parts when there are gaps of less than 3.5 mm between the final and operational surfaces. They must move without interference along the path of rotation.

When diagnosing the drive shaft, the operating part should not have a worn surface and no roughness. Traces of use of copper bushings should not be present, because Dust can cause the drive shaft to malfunction. The VAZ 2110 starter bendix, which engages with the engine flywheel and needs to be replaced if it rotates in two directions, is an important element of the electric machine that causes the flywheel of a gasoline engine to rotate.

Timely replacement of the starter relay is a guarantee of reliable operation of the vehicle's starting system, which can also be subject to repair work. When carrying out repairs, you should unscrew the housing fasteners and unsolder the relay winding leads, then remove the casing and use fine-grained sandpaper to process the contacts of the product and the front parts of the bolts.

If the surface of the bolts is severely burnt, you should turn them to a full angle, and then assemble the product. Installation of the starter should be carried out in the reverse order, lubricating all elements.

Malfunctions

After removal, you need to carefully check the solenoid relay. Here is a list of possible breakdowns:

The nuts that secure the wire ends have become loose/loosened. Easily solved by tightening the nuts;
Wires, windings, connections have oxidized. This may require replacement or just cleaning;
There are breaks in the power supply circuit. Treatment - chain replacement;
The anchor operates untimely or runs idle. Replacement ordered;
You also need to check if there is a short circuit between the turns of the windings (there are two of them).

An ohmmeter is used for checking.

Troubleshooting

When conducting a full check of the functionality of the VAZ 2110 starter, you must act in accordance with the following algorithm:

Check how well the unit rotates. If the crankshaft moves poorly, you should pay attention to the presence of lubricant and, if necessary, lubricate the mechanisms. There are situations when the oil does not correspond to the current season. Replacing it with a more suitable one will solve the problem.
Check the battery for charge and oxidation of tips and inputs. If necessary, it is necessary to charge and replace failed elements. In such a situation, it is necessary to carry out maintenance of the contact group and the battery itself, after which the functioning of the starter will be restored.
Inspect the brushes and check the tightness of the wire ends. To do all the necessary actions, you will need to dismantle and disassemble the device, clean the commutator, replace the brushes and adjust the degree of spring tension.
Determine the presence or absence of clutch slipping. If necessary, it is necessary to completely replace the starter drive. Another way to solve the problem is to wash the threaded shaft and then lubricate it.
Inspect the flywheel ring teeth for nicks. Their presence may be indicated by a characteristic grinding sound. To eliminate it, you will need to eliminate the nicks or install a new buffer spring if the old one is noticeably weakened.
Carry out diagnostics of the starter pole fastening. Its weakening may be indicated by the characteristic noise present during operation of the mechanism. The problem can be solved by securely fastening the starter or reinforcing the said fastening.

To ensure that the bolt is in contact with the plate, it is necessary to measure the resistance on the contact bolts

If you check using the described algorithm, you will be able to accurately determine the “source” of the malfunction and effectively eliminate it. However, there are breakdowns that cannot be eliminated during an inspection.

Operation of the VAZ 2110 family starter, faults and solutions Autosite

Technical characteristics of the starter for cars of the VAZ 2110 family Rated power, kW…………………………………………………………………………………..1.55 Current consumption at maximum power, no more than, A ………….375Current consumption in a braked state, no more than, A…………..700Current consumption at idle, no more, A…………………………….80

Features of the starter device type 57.3708 The starter type 57.3708 installed on VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112 cars (Fig. 7-15) is a direct current electric motor with excitation from permanent magnets, with a planetary gearbox and an electromagnetic two-winding traction relay. Covers 2, 6 and stator housing 3 are tightened with two studs. The armature shaft 23 rotates in two metal-ceramic liners installed in the cover 2 and support 21. Four permanent magnets 22 are fixed in the stator housing.

Rotation from the armature shaft 23 is transmitted to the drive shaft 14 through a planetary gearbox, which consists of a central gear 20, three planetary gears 10, a carrier 19 and an internal gear 18. Planetary gears rotate on needle bearings. The starter connection diagram type 57.3708 for VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112 cars is shown in Fig. 7-16. When the starter is turned on, the voltage from the battery is supplied through the ignition switch to both windings of the starter traction relay (retractor II and retainer I).

Photo gallery

As we promised at the beginning of the article, we present to your attention a more detailed diagram of the device indicating all the components of the design.

Photo 1. Design with designation of components

Photo 2. Designation of component parts

Photo 3. Designation of component parts