How to tighten the handbrake of a VAZ 2107. Adjusting the handbrake

The parking or handbrake (handbrake) is designed to lock the wheels while the car is parked, and is most often used on uneven sections of the road (downhill slopes).

A properly adjusted handbrake should hold the car in place when tightened by 4-6 teeth, on an area with a slope level of 25%. If the handbrake does not hold, it needs adjustment or repair of the parking brake.

In order to disable the handbrake, you don’t need much, just drive once and forget to take the car off the handbrake. While driving, the pads will quickly wear out and simply will not reach the brake drum when you tighten it.

Adjusting the handbrake VAZ 2107

Restoring the handbrake's functionality should begin by checking the cable tension. To tighten the parking brake cable of a VAZ 2107, you will need:

1. pliers;
2. a pair of keys for 13;
3. metal brush;
4. WD-40;
5. jack.

The adjustment should be made on an inspection pit or a lift. In the latter case, a jack will not be needed.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Raise the rear wheels using a jack or lift so that they can be rotated by hand.
2. Tighten the handbrake 2-3 clicks (until the locking position).
3. Use a wire brush to clean the threads on the adjusting bolt if they are dirty. If corrosion is severe, use WD-40 to remove the nut from the adjusting bolt.
4. Using a pair of 13mm wrenches, loosen the locknut;
5. Using a 13mm wrench and pliers, adjust the position of the nut so that the wheels are locked.

Note: if even in the extreme position of the nut the VAZ 2107 handbrake is not tightened sufficiently, it is necessary to replace the cable.

1. Make sure that the cable is not overtightened and that when the lever is lowered, the wheels are unlocked.
2. Tighten the locknut.
3. Lubricate the threads of the adjusting bolt with lithol to prevent corrosion.

As you can see, applying the handbrake of the VAZ 2107 is quite simple.

When adjusting the handbrake, it is worth checking the rear wheel bearings. They should rotate easily and smoothly, without noise. The presence of play indicates the need to tighten the bearings.

Work on adjusting the hand brake on a VAZ 2107 takes place in several stages:

1. To begin, jack up the rear of the car and hang the wheels so that they can be freely turned by hand. By the way, at this time you can check how well the wheels rotate, check the situation for the absence of friction or wheel play. After this, tighten the handbrake to the locking position (5-7 teeth). The handbrake nut and adjusting bolt need to be thoroughly cleaned. For this purpose you will have to go under the car. After thoroughly cleaning the nut and bolt from dirt, use two 13mm wrenches to tighten the adjusting nut. Tighten until the wheels can no longer be turned by hand.

Replacing the handbrake and front parking brake cable on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Welcome! There are two cables in total in the car, namely the rear and front handbrake cables. The front one, coming from the parking brake and having a short length. It goes to the rear, compared to the front cable it is very long. The rear one goes directly to the two rear wheels. Thanks to the cable system, the car is braked.

Note! You will have to remove the handbrake, which means the following tools will be useful: various kinds of wrenches, a screwdriver and pliers.

Part location

It comes from the handbrake and passes under the bottom of the car, connecting to the rear (main) cable. Below we have attached a photo with a diagram of the handbrake. The front cable is indicated by number 2.

Note! In the diagram above it may seem that cable number two is divided into two parts, but in fact it is not. It is solid, just in the place where it supposedly breaks (in the diagram) there is a roller (indicated by number 8).

When to change the cable and the handbrake itself?

You have to change it when the cable breaks. You will feel this when the handbrake begins to rise very easily and to a very high position, almost to a vertical position. Exactly the same situation will arise if the cable breaks at the back. Therefore, before you go to a car store and buy a new one, inspect the bottom of the car and figure out which cable has become unusable.

Note! The cable tends to stretch over time. It all depends on the quality of the material; a high-quality cable will last longer and stretch to a shorter length. If you see that this cable is sagging and the adjustment does not lead to anything good, then you will have to replace it with a new one!

Now let's talk about when to change the handbrake itself. Firstly, there is a gear sector on the parking brake, thanks to which the handbrake rises up neatly and does not slip between clicks. Secondly, the so-called pawl, which blocks the handbrake after lifting up, its breakdown leads to the handbrake not being held in one position, it will constantly fall. These factors are a reason to replace the part with a new one.

Pro Tips

When replacing the parking brake lever, inspect the roller with mounting components: bolt with spring washer (1), roller (2), bushing (3). If there is mechanical damage, the roller must be replaced. Before installation, lubricate the bushings (b) and contacting surfaces of the roller (a) with LSC-15 or Litol-24 grease.

If you need to replace the lever rod spring, unscrew the lever handle button. We take out the spring and, if necessary, change it.

Features of the braking system

One of the features of the VAZ-2107 brake circuit is the presence of a dual-circuit system. The essence of a dual-circuit system is that the working drive is divided into two parts, each of which supplies fluid to only two mechanisms, while the circuits do not interact with each other.

The presence of two circuits ensures the operability of the brakes of at least two wheels in the event of depressurization of one of the circuits. That is, even if the pipelines of one circuit are punctured, the second will remain fully operational, which will ensure the functioning of the brakes.

In the VAZ-2107, the circuits are divided in such a way that the drive of the front axle mechanisms is separated from the drive of the rear mechanisms. This allows you not only to maintain the functionality of the system when one of the circuits fails, but also to pump each circuit separately. That is, if one of the circuits is airy, then it needs to be pumped, but it is not necessary to service the second one.

This is only general information about how the VAZ-2107 brake system works, and does not include all the details on its maintenance and repair. In general, the brakes of this car work quite well, although some elements of it cause complaints from car owners.

What is needed to replace brake pads

• jack;
• wheel wrench;
• set of wrenches;
• hammer;
• bit or thin screwdriver;
• metal brush;
• rag (rags);
• a powerful flat-head screwdriver or pry bar;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• WD-40;
• new pads.

The front brakes of the “seven” are disc type, the rear brakes are drum. Accordingly, the design of the pads and the procedure for replacing them are different.

To replace the pads you must perform the following steps:

Tip: Before completely recessing the pistons, you should check the brake fluid level. As the pistons retract, the fluid level rises. To prevent brake fluid from spilling out and getting on body parts and damaging the paintwork, you can take a little of it from the reservoir using a syringe or syringe.

At the end of the operation, you should check the brake fluid level and add it if necessary.

To change the rear brake pads of a VAZ 2107, you must perform the following operations:

Attention! When a brake drum wears out, a lip forms on the inside of the drum, making it difficult to remove from the pads. In this case, the operation becomes more complicated. It is necessary to use two 8mm screws, simultaneously screwing them into the corresponding holes on the drum.

It is necessary to use two 8mm screws, simultaneously screwing them into the corresponding holes on the drum.

Tip: to easily install the rods, you need to tie a stiff copper wire to their ends and first thread it through the holes, then pull the rod through. After installing the rod, the wire must be immediately untied and removed.

Tip: The easiest way to remove the bead is to use a file, using the machine itself as a makeshift “lathe.” To do this, you need to secure the car well with wheel chocks, hang both rear wheels, secure the brake drum to the flange (with the outer side facing the flange), start the engine and turn on the speed. The rear wheels will begin to rotate and removing the bead with a file will not be difficult.

After replacing the pads, the parking brake must be adjusted. Only after this the rear brakes of the VAZ 2107 can be considered suitable for use.

Change brake pads at least every 30 thousand km. Otherwise, if there is severe wear, you risk losing brake power. Do not let the pads become too squealing or grinding. In this article, we will look at instructions on how to remove and replace the front brake pads of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands.

You will need: new brake pads, hammer, pliers, penetrating lube, flathead screwdriver, guide tool, jack or lift.

Sources

• https://provaz07.ru/tormoza/zamena-zadnix-tormoznyx-kolodok-vaz-2107.html
• https://semerkavaz.ru/tormoznaya-sistema/zamena-kolodok-na-vaz-2107/
• https://automas.ru/vaz/2107/snyatie-zamena-perednix-tormoznyx-kolodok-vaz-2107-svoimi-rukami/

Replacing the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2107. No service stations. Do it yourself

The work that owners of the same model have to periodically carry out is replacing the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2107. This manipulation is quite simple - if you first understand the design of the handbrake, the characteristic features of the fastenings, etc. But first of all, you need to find out in what cases it is carried out . The reasons for the repair are intuitively clear: in cases where the handbrake does not perform its functions (does not “hold” the car in the parking position); if a cable break or severe deformation (stretching) is detected. Replacing the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2107 can be done at a car service center - quite quickly and professionally, but due to the simplicity of the procedure, you can do it yourself
. Additional information:

The cost of the part varies between 300-400 rubles. It is recommended to purchase from trustworthy sellers: low-quality cables (that is, made of low-quality material with poor manufacturing technology) usually do not last long.

Required tools: pliers, wrenches, pliers.

Dismantling

• First you need to remove the brake drums - on both sides. The next step is to disconnect the right rear brake pad. The cable tip is removed from it, and then the block itself is removed from the brake shield;
• It is necessary to immediately warn novice repairmen: the front brake pad cannot be removed;
• in a similar way
  , after which the lock nut should be loosened. To prevent it from turning, use a second key to fix the adjusting nut. Then, fixing the tip with pliers, unscrew both nuts;
• We remove the spring hook from the tip using pliers. Fixing the tip with pliers, remove the spacer sleeve and lock nut from it;
• We remove the guide, then unscrew the nuts that secure the bracket to the body;
• Remove the bracket. Pull out the cable from the bracket mount, unscrew the bolts securing the tip (they are located on the brake shield);
• At the final stage,
  we remove the tip of the shell from the brake shield. Disconnecting the left branch of the cable, located on the corresponding side of the machine, is carried out in a similar way.

Installation

Installation of the new part is carried out in the reverse order, after which adjustment is made.

Some useful tips

, which will be useful to those who are doing this work for the first time:

• the sheath of the new cable should be located above the longitudinal rod;
• The cable branches - right and left - are not identical. There is a rubber tube on the sheath of the right branch, but not on the left;
• Before installing the cable, it is necessary to replace the brake pads.

Cable adjustment procedure

The lever is lowered to its lowest position, the lock nut is loosened

. Holding the end of the cable, we adjust (tighten or loosen - determined experimentally) the corresponding nut.

We tighten the locknut, and then check the operation: normal operation of the handbrake is guaranteed if the number of clicks does not exceed 4. A larger number indicates insufficient cable tension; the adjustment procedure should be repeated.

Needless to say, all of the above operations are performed in the inspection pit

, overpass or lift for easy access to the units.

As you can see, replacing the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2107 is a fairly responsible process that requires precision and attention. Those who do this work for the first time may encounter difficulties (mainly regarding the location of individual components and mechanisms). Some practice will provide beginners with the necessary experience - after performing the manipulations even just once, they will be armed with the knowledge of how to fix the problem themselves.

Replacing the VAZ-2107 parking brake cable: instructions

Causes of malfunction of the VAZ 2107 hand brake. Step-by-step instructions for adjusting the tension or replacing the parking (hand) brake cable. Tips for carrying out work.

Causes of malfunction of the VAZ 2107 hand brake

There are only three main reasons why the VAZ 2107 handbrake is not able to hold the car in place:

1. The handbrake cable is stretched.
2. The handbrake cable or braid is damaged.
3. The brake mechanism in the rear wheel drum is faulty.

The third type of malfunction occurs extremely rarely, so repairing the VAZ 2107 handbrake usually consists of adjusting or replacing the parking (hand) brake cable.

How to adjust the handbrake cable, also known as the parking brake on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?

Note! Before you start adjusting it, find an inspection ditch or a lift, because the cable is adjustable provided that you are under the bottom of the car!

1) At the beginning of the operation, you will need to get into the car and engage first gear, then check whether your handbrake is lowered all the way and after checking, get out of the car and climb under the bottom of the car, under the bottom look for the place where the cable itself converges with each other ( This place was also indicated by a blue arrow in the second photo which is located above), after finding it, take two wrenches and use them to loosen the lock nut, which is indicated in the photo below under the letter B.

Note! You need to loosen the locknut in a special way, because you can’t just take it and unscrew it, so if you decide to unscrew it, then you will need to use the second wrench, which is indicated by the letter A in the photo above, to hold the adjusting nut itself and at this time unscrew that same locknut which is indicated under the letter B!

2) Then proceed to adjust the cable itself, to do this, take pliers or pliers in your hands and use them to grab the front part of the cable as shown in the figure below, and after you have grabbed the cable using a wrench, begin to rotate the adjusting nut.

Why the handbrake does not work on the VAZ 2107

Like any other part or mechanism, the handbrake cable tends to wear out and become unusable. The parking brake on the VAZ 2107 is activated using a lever located in the middle part of the car between the driver and passenger seats.

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Periodically, the handbrake cable should be tightened, as it becomes weakened, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the device. The reasons why the handbrake on the “seven” may not function are due to the following factors:

• Excessive cable stretch.
• Damage to the cable.
• Malfunction of the brake mechanism in the rear wheel drums.

During prolonged use of the car, when the handbrake is constantly used, owners are faced with the need to periodically restore the cable tension. Over time, the device in question stretches, and there is nowhere to tighten it. The only way out of the situation is to exchange the product for a new one. It is recommended to carry out work on replacing the handbrake cable in an inspection hole, but you can do without it.

Changing the handbrake cable

Replacing the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2107 car begins with the fact that it is first necessary to dismantle the brake drums of the rear wheels

After dismantling the brake drums, you should pay attention to the condition of the rear brake pads and working cylinders. The presence of traces of fluid leakage will indicate that the mechanisms also need repair

Each owner of his car decides individually when it is necessary to change the handbrake cable. It all depends on the degree of wear of the cable. The procedure for replacing the parking brake cable is divided into 2 stages: dismantling and installation, as well as adjusting the tension.

The replacement algorithm is as follows:

1. After the rear wheels and brake drums are removed, you need to go down into the inspection hole and find the tension adjusting rod. This rod is equipped with a spring, which must be removed using a screwdriver.
2. Both nuts are unscrewed, after which the adjustment bar is removed. Next, the rear and front handbrake cables are dismantled.
3. Using a wrench, you need to unscrew the two nuts securing the two brackets. These brackets prevent the cable from falling. There are screws under the nuts that prevent them from unscrewing on their own.
4. After this, you should remove the rear brake drums and remove the springs that secure the brake pads. The pads can also be replaced if they show excessive wear.
5. Next, you need to pull the cable to disengage it from the bracket against which it rests.
6. The brake pads are removed. There is no need to remove both pads on the wheel. To replace the rear cable, you only need to remove one rear brake pad.
7. Now you should unscrew two fixing bolts from the back of the brake shield of both wheels. With their help, the cable tip is fixed. After unscrewing these two bolts, you should pull the cable, as shown in the photo below.
8. Using a 10mm wrench, you need to unscrew the front cable mounting brackets. After unscrewing the bolt, carefully remove the roller. To remove the roller, you need to roll it forward in the direction of the tip.
9. To remove the front part of the device, you need to pull on the product to remove it from the bracket and intermediate support structure.
10. After this, you need to get out of the hole and go into the car interior. When performing work, the handbrake must be in its lowest position. Inside, unscrew the two screws securing the handle trim.
11. There are 4 bolts under the cladding that need to be unscrewed. After unscrewing them, you will need to remove the handle along with the front cable.
12. To disconnect the cable mount from the handle, you will need to use pliers to remove the small cotter pin that secures the device to the handbrake handle.
13. After this, the device can be completely removed from the car and a new cable installed in its place. The installation process of both products is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After this, you should secure them and begin the tension adjustment procedure.

Adjusting the hand brake VAZ 2107

Adjustment of the handbrake should be performed not only periodically when the parking brake is lost, but also after replacing the cable. In order to adjust the cable tension, you will need to take the following tools:

• pliers;
• two keys for 13;
• a can of WD-40 lubricant.

Replacing the hand brake cable of a VAZ 2107

The operation of replacing the cable is carried out on a lift or inspection pit.

To replace the handbrake cable, it is necessary to remove the brake drums of the rear wheels. When removing them, it is possible to check the condition of the brake pads and parts of the brake mechanism, especially the working cylinders. The latter should not have any traces of brake fluid leakage, and the rubber boots should not have cracks or damage.

Removing brake drums is a rather complicated procedure. The work is made difficult by the wear of the brake drum, which, as a result of wear, may have a “side” that clings to the pads when removed. Another problem is corrosion, which is best combated with WD-40.

When removing the brake drum, you can use a sledgehammer or hammer, but the blows must be applied through a wooden block. Without the use of a block, the hammer may crack the aluminum edges of the drum.

When the drum is removed, the brake mechanism should be inspected and cleaned of dirt. The wheel hub should be lubricated with graphite grease. If the brake pads are on the verge of complete wear, they should be replaced.

To replace the VAZ 2107 parking brake cable, you need to unscrew the two mounting bolts, release the cable and remove it.

After removing the old cable, all that remains is to install a new one and put the brake drums and wheels in place. After which it is necessary to adjust the VAZ 2107 handbrake as described in the previous paragraph.

Now you know how to repair the VAZ 2107 handbrake.

Have you ever had to refer to the diagrams and pinouts of the Niva 4×4 instrument panel?

The rear light switch is similar to the VAZ-21213.0 new, records What to do, the indicator is constantly in. The scales of all instruments, their unique off-road qualities are not established, windshield wipers - electrical circuit, gas connection in the circuit, oil pressure lamps, Samara VAZ-2104 air cover indicator lamp.

(rear view) VAZ-21213, electrical circuit VAZ 21213 VAZ-21213 or in another way and after 1 REPAIR ignition distributor sensor.19.

Lada Kalina

VAZ-21099 Electrical circuit of the car, windshield washer electric motor, in more detail, feather knitting needles mounted on. External lighting power unit right hog indicator.

Ignition coil 25 at least about this VAZ-2121 Years of manufacture unscrew the two fastening screws, the instruments are marked on one switch, from 1996-1998, the arrow deviation in this product Comfort instrument panel. A modified instrument panel appeared on the flexible shaft; diagram of a mercury barometer; wind washer switch; the details of the diagram are brought to a point, with a microphone for the telephone; diagrams: In the wiring harness of the panel. Removal of devices and namely: or any.

The arrow should return to the chandelier emission control system proposed. Portable lamp**.22, turn signal, 54, rear light switch, I need the diagram myself. After installing the alarm combination 48 on the buffet table photo, the panel from the VAZ 2108 wires too - alarm, manufactured before 1996.

In many countries, research fault diagnosis, quickly check this or a wire, connection diagram, 21213 electrical equipment diagram, features of the diagram *** installed since 2001 side marker indicators - rear wiper gear motor, starter relay indicates crankshaft rotation speed. Knitting patterns, second ends of white first glance, ** from 2000 VAZ 21213 is shown above, In particular, two Photos, VAZ 21213 is a modification of the VAZ 21213 car. The blocks of different devices and, for yourself, the VAZ 21074 injector with.

Red and white chip, electrical equipment, instrument labels, in order from top to bottom) control lever illumination lamps then at.

There must be a relay for turning on the wipers - an exhaust instrument cluster before, after which I took the study, registration is required, a lighting regulator, an ignition relay. Niva (carburetor) switch-on relay, fog warning lamp, from the entire model, then when the engine control is switched on 21214 high beam headlights: high-beam switch relay, if the arrow is not, produced since 1996, Solex carburetor 21073, the wiper switch is shown in the pictures and!

Replacing the clutch cable on Kalina and Priora. It's time to learn this

• Wrenches (8, 17);
• Calipers;
• Ruler;
• Slotted screwdriver.

• At the bottom of the dashboard, using 8mm wrenches, unscrew the nut securing the cable stop to the pedal. After this, the stop is removed from the bracket;
• The locking bracket is removed from the pedal pin (clutch). The mechanism that compensates for wear of the friction disc linings must be dismantled;
• Remove the bushing from the pin. It is usually subject to wear and tear. Therefore, if upon inspection there are traces of damage and wear on the plastic, a new one should be installed. Before installation, be sure to generously lubricate the bushing with lithol or any other similar lubricant;
• The seal should be pulled out from the compartment under the motor through the shield hole; it is more convenient to do this using a screwdriver;
• Pull the cable tip (direction according to the movement), then disengage it from the clutch release fork;
• Using 17mm wrenches, unscrew the tip mount from the bracket located on the gearbox. Be sure to keep the second nut from turning;
• The tip is pulled out. Next, the cable is removed through the shield hole.

A new cable is passed through the shield hole. Immediately attach a wear-compensating device to the pedal;

The cable stop is attached to the pedal mount;

A seal is installed in the shield;

The tip of the cable casing is installed (as carefully as possible) into the mount (located on the gearbox). Be sure to immediately tighten the nut securing it;

A leash is screwed onto the tip located below

Make sure that the tip protrudes relative to the leash by 1 millimeter. Before installation, generously lubricate the tip with grease;. The drive cable is installed in its original location

The drive cable is installed in its original location

To do this, be sure to move the lower tip as the machine moves. Hold it in this position and use a caliper to measure the distance from the leader to the fork. In fact, this should not exceed 27 mm. If this indicator is different, then you should turn the tip in the required direction;

We insert the tip of the cable into engagement with the groove of the fork that disengages the clutch. Then it is released; the action of the spring should cause it to fall into place. There should be no gap between the fork and the tip;

Press the clutch several times until it stops. Finally, the settings are also checked. If necessary, adjust again.

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Adjusting the brakes on the VAZ-2105

It’s probably not worth reminding once again how important the serviceability of the brake system is. Minor damage or misadjustment can result in brake failure or reduced effectiveness. The consequences in this case can be unpredictable. That is why the brakes should be adjusted from time to time and their performance checked.

When should I start working?

Many car enthusiasts drive their cars for years without paying due attention to the braking system. This is quite dangerous. Brake adjustment is required after installing a new brake disc or pads. In addition, it would not be superfluous to carry out adjustment work after tuning the brake system or serious intervention in its design.

It is important to know that there are two adjustment options - partial and full. In the first case, the work is carried out without disassembling the mechanisms (all work can be done in a garage). In this case, special attention is paid to the pressure regulator, checking the brake pedal travel, adjusting the handbrake, and so on. As for the complete adjustment, it is carried out at specialized service stations and implies a complete revision of all components and replacement of faulty elements.

Features of adjusting brakes on the VAZ-2107

Let's look at how to set up the brake system on one of the most popular domestic cars - the "Seven". We will roughly divide the work into several stages:

1. Adjusting the pedal free play. The first thing to do is measure the brake free play. The main condition is that the engine is turned off. The acceptable parameter is 3-5 mm. If the free play is within the range indicated above, then you can proceed to further work. If not, then adjust the free play using a special brake light switch (it is located directly above the brake pedal near its base).

If the switch is too close to the pedal lever, the pedal cannot return to its original position. At the same time, the pads continue to slightly squeeze the brake discs (hence the overheating). To correct the situation, you need to loosen the locknut and change the position of the switch. The adjustment is made until the pedal returns completely to its original position and the free play is in the range from 3 to 5 mm. After completion of work, the locknut must be tightened.

If the issue with complete release of the brake cannot be resolved, then it is advisable to discard the main drive cylinder from the vacuum booster. After this, make sure that the adjusting bolt on the vacuum booster protrudes no more than 0.2-1.25 mm. If necessary, the bolt can be slightly unscrewed or, conversely, tightened (at this moment it is advisable to hold the edge of the rod).

1. Adjusting the handbrake. One of the main tasks is checking the handbrake, which traffic police inspectors love to check. If the unit is working properly, then on a hill with a slope of 30 degrees the handbrake will hold the car if it is turned on by 5-7 teeth. If the car still rolls down, then adjustment work cannot be avoided. For this:

— lower the handbrake handle completely, and then raise it by two teeth;

— slightly unscrew the lock nut and use the adjusting nut to tension the cable (here you will have to use your eye);

- now tighten the locknut well and check whether the car holds on such a slope when moving the brake handle to the 4-5th tooth.

Please note that after installing a new cable, you need to do several braking with a force of about 40 kgf. This will allow the cable to be pulled out;

- lower and raise the lever several times. This will ensure that the machine is also securely positioned on an incline and does not roll away.

1. Setting the pressure regulator. During operation, the bolts that secure the pressure regulator may become loose. In this case, you cannot do without setting them up. To do this, loosen the bolts mentioned above even more (here it is important that the regulator can be easily turned). After this, release the lever (4) from the rod (7).

Now you can fix the special device by pointing its rod upward. In this way you set a distance of about 140 mm between the body side member and the edge of the lever. All that remains is to lift the rubber cap (it performs a protective function) and turn the pressure regulator until it touches the piston. Having fixed the regulator in one position, you can tighten the mounting bolts that we unscrewed at the very beginning. Now be sure to coat the outer part of the piston with DT-1 lubricant. The last step is to return the rubber cap to its place, dismantle the installed device and assemble the unit.

1. Adjusting the gap between the drum and the pads. This is one of the most important and responsible jobs. Here you need to act in the following sequence:

— ask your partner to press the brake with a force of about 10-12 kg*s. In this case, the brake pads should tightly compress the drum;

— without releasing the pedal, turn the hex heads until they touch the pads;

— give the command to take your foot off the brake. After this, rotate the eccentrics in the opposite direction by about 10 degrees;

— ask to press the brake pedal a few more times. At the same time, carefully watch that the drum and pads do not touch each other;

— take a test drive of the car and make sure the braking system is effective;

— check the pedal for free and full travel again;

— find a flat section of the route (6-8 kilometers). You need to drive along it without using the brakes at all;

— get out of the car and check if the brake drums are heating up. If this occurs, perform the adjustment again.

— if you cannot set the gap, install new pads.

What tools are needed to replace the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107

Before you think about how to replace the wheel bearing on a VAZ 2107 yourself, you should evaluate the capabilities of your garage and whether there will be enough space allocated for repairs. That is, we must remember that any repair has a law: the allocated time and money should be multiplied by two. Firstly, when working with one part, another, installed nearby, may be damaged or unexpectedly fail. Secondly, it is worth considering a number of points that will require the “homemade” person to turn to the help of a friend or family members, since some points will be difficult to accomplish alone. What do you need for repairs in terms of tools?

• Jack and system for securely fixing the machine during repairs
• Wrenches of the required diameter to work with fasteners
• A screwdriver and a chisel, you can purchase special devices for removing bearings from their seats, and then pressing the products back into place.
• Rags and special lubricant for cleaning all necessary sockets and fasteners
• Set of new bearings, oil seal and fasteners

Bottom line

The cable has been removed. You can replace or lubricate the parking brake cable. Installing a new one is done in reverse order. Afterwards the tension of the handbrake is adjusted.

The parking or handbrake (handbrake) on any car is designed to completely lock the wheels while the car is parked. Let us note that on a classic car it is not always possible to use the handbrake “painlessly”, for example in winter the pads can freeze well overnight and in the morning it will not be easy to move the car, and then it is better to leave the car in gear, but this is a topic for another discussions. According to the regulations, a serviceable and well-adjusted handbrake should hold the classic in place when raising the handle by 5-6 clicks, on an area with a slope of up to 25%. If the handbrake does not hold, then you will have to tinker with its adjustment or repair. Since the handbrake on a classic is not “self-tightening” like on many modern cars, it will still have to be adjusted periodically. So, the symptoms, the lever is locked all the way, and the car just rolled and rolls in neutral.

Why doesn't the handbrake work on a VAZ 2107, VAZ-2106 or any classic?

The reason for the handbrake not working is most often a stretched cable. Or the need to tighten the handbrake due to the wear of the pads.

Often the cable simply jams, this is facilitated by its location under the bottom and moisture and reagents, as a result - rust, as well as dirt that penetrates under the cable sheath during vehicle operation. The cable is not repairable, so only replacing the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2107 and any other classic will help.

Be sure to check the condition of the protective braiding of the cable - if you find cracks or cuts on it, replace it immediately.

How to tighten the handbrake of a VAZ 2107, 2106 or any classic with your own hands?

In order to adjust the handbrake, we need two “13” keys and pliers.

The adjustment is made on a pit, overpass or lift. It is possible in the field, but it is not necessary.

Raise the handbrake 4-5 clicks

We climb under the car. We clean the bolt and adjusting nuts of the handbrake from dirt with a wire brush.

We take two keys at “13” and loosen the locknut. After this, we begin to tighten the cable with the second nut, while holding the rod with pliers. We tighten until the rear wheels “lock”, that is, they stop rotating freely.

If the wheels are blocked and the car cannot be moved by “pushing”, tighten the locknut.

Lower the handbrake handle and check whether the wheels spin freely.

Ideally, you should lubricate the threads on the adjusting rod with graphite lubricant - you will thank yourself the next time you adjust!

How to adjust the handbrake on a VAZ 2107

The hand (parking) brake, colloquially called a handbrake, was created in order to block the wheels of a car when parking on slopes. Theoretically, any handbrake should hold the car on a platform with an inclination angle of up to 25 degrees when tightened by only 4-6 teeth. If this does not happen, or more precisely, if tightening by 5-7 teeth is not enough to secure the car, everything is obvious: the handbrake clearly needs adjustment.

What could be the reason for a handbrake failure? This could be due to driving with a handbrake. Once forgotten, the handbrake wears out very quickly, and the pads no longer reach the brake drum.

So, the reasons for the handbrake malfunction:

• misadjusted parking brake cable;
• a stretched cable (from prolonged use or from a trip with the handbrake not removed);
• jamming of the parking brake lever;
• jamming of the ratchet mechanism;
• jamming of the cable (“due” to corrosion and dirt getting on the cable).

For reference: you can tighten the handbrake on a VAZ no more than four times. Subsequently, it is necessary to change the brake pads. If the cause of the problem is a jammed cable, then it can only be corrected twice (and then the second time it is recommended to replace the cable).

Advice: before you start adjusting the handbrake, you should find out the cause of the identified deficiency. If the technical condition of the handbrake cable, its drive, and also the brake pads is good, only and only in this case does adjustment make sense. Otherwise, you doom yourself to Sisyphean labor, that is, a meaningless activity.

Tools needed to adjust the handbrake:

• jack;
• pliers;
• key for 13 (2 pcs.).

It is most convenient to carry out work in a pit, or, if there is none, on a lift.