Replacing and adjusting the handbrake cable of the LADA "Granta"

Replacing parking brake cables

The cables must be replaced simultaneously, left and right.
We install the car on a lift or inspection ditch

Unscrew the locknut and adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod

Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod

We take out the cable ends from the equalizer and remove it

Replacing the Priora parking brake cable

Remove the end of the left cable sheath from the bracket

We disconnect the rear end of the left cable from the parking brake lever (described in the article How to repair the rear wheel brakes of a Lada Granta)

We remove the end of the cable and the brake shield

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the bracket securing the cable sheath to the rear suspension beam

Manual brake lever with rod assembly for Lada Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

We remove the cable sheath from the holder on the rear suspension beam mounting bracket

Use a screwdriver to bend the cable mounting bracket on the body and remove the cable from the bracket

Using a 10 mm high socket, unscrew the four nuts securing the heat shield of the tank

Removing the screen

We remove the cable from the holder on the body

How to tighten and adjust the handbrake on a VAZ-2112 with your own hands (+ video)

We remove the left parking brake cable from behind the protective screen of the fuel lines

Installing the parking brake cables

We mount one of the cables in the reverse order and insert its front end into the cable equalizer

Place the parking brake lever rod into the hole in the equalizer and tighten the adjusting nut several turns.

To install another cable, you can make a device from a metal tube about 30 cm long and a hole with a diameter of 15-16 mm.

At one end of the tube we drill a hole and cut a thread in it for a screw (M4-M6).

Cable installation tool

We fix the cable in the holders on the body and the rear suspension beam mounting bracket

We put the tube on the rear end of the cable and fix the cable sheath on the end with a screw

Use a rod (you can use a wrench) to press on the tip of the cable, compressing its spring

In this case, the front end of the cable will come out of the sheath and can be inserted into the equalizer.

Further installation of the cable is carried out in the reverse order.

After replacing the cables, we adjust the parking brake.

The parking brake should hold the vehicle on a 23% grade.

The full travel of the parking brake lever should be from 2 to 4 teeth (clicks) of the ratchet device

How to adjust the handbrake on a Lada Granta

Adjusting the handbrake on the Grant is quite simple, you just need to carefully follow the instructions:

We park the car on a pit or overpass;
Fully lower the parking brake lever;
Remove the cushion from the bracket of the additional muffler and unscrew the four nuts that secure the protective screen
We move the protective screen in the direction of travel of the car
Hold the adjusting nut with one wrench set to “13” and loosen the locknut
We adjust the length of the drive using the adjusting nut. When screwing it in, the length of the drive is shortened, and when turned away it increases (during the adjustment process, we periodically check the handbrake stroke);
If you have achieved the desired result, you can lock the adjusting nut and fasten the protective screen and additional muffler in place.

Source

Self-adjusting hand brake

If you have prepared everything you need to make the adjustment, you can proceed. To begin, make it possible to work under the machine by placing it above the inspection hole. If there is none, use a jack to raise the rear of the car. Next, follow the instructions in which we will tell you how to tighten the handbrake on a Grant to get a result no worse than that of a service station master. So, the process of setting the optimal cable tension is as follows:

To tighten the handbrake cables, you must place the car above the inspection hole

First, climb inside the vehicle to set the parking brake lever to its full operating position - this will allow you to determine what the result of the adjustment should be. If the lever rises by less than two clicks, then measures should be taken to increase the length of the drive. Although most often it is necessary to shorten it, since due to wear of the pads and stretching of the cable, the number of clicks only increases over time. It is necessary to lengthen the drive only after installing new brake pads.
Fully lower the handbrake lever and move under the car to remove the cushions from the brackets of the additional muffler.
Next, using a socket wrench, unscrew the four nuts that hold the protective shield in place.
Now prepare a wooden block to place it between the muffler pipe and the bottom (you will have to pull it back for this) - this way you can remove the protective screen, which will free up space for work.
Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the locknut while holding the adjusting nut with a second wrench.
In order to tighten the handbrake drive, screw in the adjusting nut, and to lengthen it, on the contrary, this nut should be unscrewed. When tightening, it is necessary to check the travel of the handbrake lever.

This is how the Lada Granta's handbrake is adjusted, but the work does not end there. After all, it is necessary to check whether the result meets the current requirements. To do this, you need to lift the car using a lift or hang its rear wheels using a jack. Now, use your hand to turn each wheel and make sure that when the handbrake lever is lowered, the wheels rotate freely. If this is the case and the lever stroke is 2–4 turns, then you have adjusted the handbrake drive on the Lada Grant correctly.

The final stage of the adjustment work consists of installing all the removed parts in the reverse order, after which the parking brake system must be tested under road conditions. To do this, find a suitable section of road with a slope of 23% (or an overpass) and put the car on the handbrake. If the car does not move spontaneously, you can be proud of the result of your work.

And finally, I would like to note that the problem with a non-working hand brake is not always solved by simply tightening the drive. Over time, the cable loses its ability to perform its function due to critical stretching, wear or damage. After all, he has to work in aggressive conditions under the bottom of the vehicle. In such cases, the only solution is to replace the parking brake cable.

How to adjust the handbrake on a Lada Granta

Adjusting the handbrake on the Grant is quite simple, you just need to carefully follow the instructions:

We park the car on a pit or overpass;
Fully lower the parking brake lever;
Remove the cushion from the bracket of the additional muffler and unscrew the four nuts that secure the protective screen
We move the protective screen in the direction of travel of the car
Hold the adjusting nut with one wrench set to “13” and loosen the locknut
We adjust the length of the drive using the adjusting nut. When screwing it in, the length of the drive is shortened, and when turned away it increases (during the adjustment process, we periodically check the handbrake stroke);
If you have achieved the desired result, you can lock the adjusting nut and fasten the protective screen and additional muffler in place.

A necessary tool for tightening the handbrake.

Two keys for 13. It is advisable that one of them be a socket.
Head 8.
A partner, but you can do without him. The truth is it’s more difficult without him.

The principle of adjusting the handbrake

Fully lower the handbrake lever in the cabin.
Place the car on a pit or lift it on a lift. Some car owners manage to adjust the handbrake “from the curb” - but this is inconvenient and dangerous.
Find the resonator from the bottom of the car and remove it from the rubber brackets.
Using a ratchet, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the protection of the handbrake adjustment mechanism (protective screen).
Next, you can either remove the protective screen, but it seems to me that it is easier to move it forward behind the muffler, which will free up space that is enough for free work.
Loosen the first nut with a 13mm wrench.
By tightening the adjusting nut, tighten the handbrake cable that comes out of the passenger compartment.
Ask a partner to check the stroke of the lever handle, or check it yourself.
As soon as the handbrake moves 3-4 clicks, tighten the lock nut.
Before the final stage of work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the brake mechanism. To do this, hang the rear wheels and watch how they rotate with the hand brake off. They also check how the wheels grip when the handbrake is raised.
Next, return the protective screen to its place, screw it onto the seats and put rubber fasteners on the resonator.

adjustment + photo and video

Incorrect operation of the handbrake can cause an accident or some other serious incident.

Introduction

For example, even with the simplest job of replacing a broken tire, you must put the car on the handbrake, otherwise you risk “putting” the car on the bumper as a result of the car “driving” forward. And this is not the worst thing that can happen! You may cause yourself serious physical harm.

Toyota BB was dropped on the asphalt

The same Toyota

Classic fell off the jack

A necessary tool for tightening the handbrake.

Head 8 for ratchet

Set of keys for 13

Partner (preferably the coolest car mechanic)

Two keys for 13. It is advisable that one of them be a socket.
Head 8.
A partner, but you can do without him. The truth is it’s more difficult without him.

The principle of adjusting the handbrake

Fully lower the handbrake lever in the cabin.

Lower the handbrake handle

Remove the muffler from its mounting to the body

Using a ratchet, unscrew the 4 bolts securing the protection of the handbrake adjustment mechanism (protective screen).

Remove and set aside the protective screen

Next, you can either remove the protective screen, but it seems to me that it is easier to move it forward behind the muffler, which will free up space that is enough for free work.

The mechanism looks like this

Loosen the first nut with a 13mm wrench.

By tightening the adjusting nut, tighten the handbrake cable that comes out of the passenger compartment. Ask a partner to check the stroke of the lever handle, or check it yourself. As soon as the handbrake moves 3-4 clicks, tighten the lock nut. Before the final stage of work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the brake mechanism. To do this, hang the rear wheels and watch how they rotate with the hand brake off. They also check how the wheels grip when the handbrake is raised. Next, return the protective screen to its place, screw it onto the seats and put rubber fasteners on the resonator.

Handbrake adjustment video

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

This is the peculiarity of the mechanism, which is why you often have to tighten the handbrake. Plus low-quality spare parts from the beginning, and a design that has not changed since the time of Tsar Pea!

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

It shouldn’t be like this (the brakes don’t grab the rear wheels)

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/

You can fully check the correct operation of the handbrake on a hill at 23 degrees. With the handbrake lever fully raised, the car should stand still in a disengaged gear.

Pull up the handbrake

But if you really know how to tighten the handbrake on a Lada Granta standard, this procedure will not take you much time and effort. The only thing that is required for its implementation is a jack or an inspection hole, because access to adjustable components and assemblies occurs from below and you will have to work under the car. To tighten (adjust) the handbrake you will need 3 tools:

two open-end wrenches for 13, one of them is preferably a socket one;
one key head for 8;
a faithful assistant (although in desperate situations you can get by alone).

The process of directly adjusting the manual braking system of a Lada Granta car is carried out in nine main stages:

We lower the handbrake lever inside the car.
We climb under the car, unscrew the rubber cushions (brackets) from the resonator, and remove the muffler from its attachment to the body.
We remove the protective screen of the parking brake adjustment mechanism. To do this, use a socket wrench to unscrew the 4 nuts from the fastening bolts.
We remove the protective screen or move it to the side behind the muffler - in this case, the necessary space for work is also quite enough. In this case, the muffler can be pulled back with something, for example, by pushing a block of wood under it.
We take two 13mm wrenches - the first one is to slightly loosen the locknut, holding the adjusting nut. Then vice versa - hold it, and secondly turn (also loosening) the adjusting nut.
Actually, we adjust the hand brake as follows: tighten the handbrake cable, for which we tighten the adjusting nut (move the key clockwise).
Next, you should check the travel of the handbrake lever - this is why you need a partner, or you will have to do it yourself. The lock nut can be tightened when the handbrake stroke is 2-4 clicks (see above).
Then we test the operation of the parking brake mechanism as a whole. To do this, lift the rear wheels and check how freely they rotate when the handbrake is lowered and how completely they lock when fully raised (in this case they should not rotate at all!).
If the handbrake is working properly, tighten the locknut and replace the protective screen and muffler. The handbrake adjustment is complete!

As the mileage and life of the vehicle increases, the handbrake becomes less and less adjustable. It happens that even after adjustment, the manual braking system does not work properly and does not “hold” the car. This indicates that the wear on the brake pads is too high or the cable stretch is irreversible.

Tools:

Ratchet wrench
Extension
10 mm head
13 mm high head
Open-end wrench 13 mm

Parts and consumables:

Aerosol lubricant type WD-40

Notes:

The parking brake should hold the vehicle on a 23% grade. The full travel of the parking brake lever should be from 2 to 4 teeth (clicks) of the lever ratchet device.

1. To adjust the parking brake, place the vehicle on an inspection ditch or overpass and lower the parking brake lever.

2. Using a 10 mm socket, unscrew the four nuts securing the rear heat shield of the additional muffler, having previously treated them with WD-40 lubricant.

3. Remove the rubber cushion from the front suspension bracket of the additional muffler.

4. Slide the heat shield forward to expose the parking brake adjustment assembly.

5. Holding the adjusting nut of the cable end with a 13 mm wrench, use a socket of the same size to unscrew the lock nut.

6. Turn the adjusting nut clockwise to tighten the cables.

Note:

It is convenient to adjust the tension of the cables with a high head with a ratchet and an extension. In this case, do not unscrew the lock nut completely, but, aligning its edges with the edges of the adjusting nut, put on a 13 mm high socket and rotate both nuts at once.

7. Use the locknut to secure the adjusting nut. When the lever is lowered, the suspended rear wheels should rotate freely.

The article is missing:

Photos of parts and consumables

Adjusting the handbrake lever on the Lada Grant is necessary if its stroke is more than 6 clicks. The optimal stroke is 2-4 clicks, but during operation it is allowed to increase its stroke to 8 clicks.

An increase in the travel of the parking brake lever occurs for several reasons, the main ones being stretching of the handbrake cable and wear of the brake pads.

Adjusting the parking brake (handbrake).LADA Granta – Fun – watch video

4 years ago

In the video I will show you how to change the front pads, brake discs and calipers yourself.

2 weeks ago

The dealer sold the damaged car like new Prices for Lada Kalina Cross on Avto.ru – https://goo.gl/BRZ31U – My website – https://avtokriminalist.ru/ – Offer a car for review – [email protected] Lada car Kalina was purchased a year ago from an official dealer.

A year later, the owner decided to sell the car and found out that under the guise of a new car, a car dealership had sold him a damaged and repaired car. Comprehensive vehicle inspection and diagnostics. Checking the body, engine and mileage.

Autocriminalist Maxim Shelkov – Car diagnostics before purchase – Checking the car with a visit to the car – Selection of a car to order – Examination of license plates: VIN, body, frame, engine – Checking car documents

4 weeks ago

All details about the car for subscribers:

Win a car with tuning - https://l.tinkoff.ru/academegcar Management competition “Leaders of Russia”: https://leadersrossii.rf Many thanks to Boryan and Feda from LOW CARS MEET, they will soon have an insight from this filming on their channel: https://www.youtube.

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Oil additive tests

My 2nd channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6rJlbPrc07AnG4BYlciPoA Excellent DVR https://ali.pub/204pb1 Continuation of this video

2 years ago

Adjusting the handbrake cable on a VAZ 2114-2115 Since the rear drums and pads tend to wear out, over time the effectiveness of the handbrake decreases and you have to tighten it more and more.

Ultimately, even with the lever at maximum tension, the rear wheels do not lock to the required moment, and you need to resort to adjusting the mechanism. To perform this work on a VAZ 2114-2115 you will need only two 13mm wrenches, one can be a regular one, and the second is convenient to use a ratchet, since there is quite a bit of space for turning the nut.

So, it is most convenient to perform this work in a pit, or with the rear of the car strongly raised with a jack. The first step is to find the adjustment mechanism itself. It is located under the bottom of the car closer to its rear: Now, while holding one nut with a wrench, the second must be tightened until the handbrake efficiency becomes normal.

Then tighten the locknut until it stops. Of course, you will have to repeat the operation several times, but there is nothing complicated about it. You need to achieve such a result that with 4 clicks, the rear wheels lock and hold the car on a sufficiently high slope.

Some owners check the operation while driving by lifting the lever and making sure that the wheels are completely locked.

Please note that you should not overtighten the cable, as the pads may come too close to the drums, which can lead to excessive wear of both the drums themselves and the pads, as well as heating of the brake mechanisms, increased fuel consumption and other negative consequences. Good luck with the renovation. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel, thank you in advance. If you have any questions, you can ask questions on the channel and I will try to answer them in the comments. Good luck with the renovation.

3 years ago

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AUTOLIFE HACKS. tips for motorists Download

Source: https://prikoly2016.ru/watch/LADA-Granta-regulirovka-stoyanochnogo-tormoza/YmJqEzcZbjc

Causes of malfunction and their elimination

As a rule, the reasons why the handbrake does not work are quite simple and do not require long or expensive repairs:

torn cable. One of the common causes is a broken cable on the handbrake or under the car. The problem is solved by simply replacing the cable;
jammed cable. Due to damage to the sheath in which the cable moves, it may become jammed, preventing you from using the handbrake. And the cable itself consists of many steel strands, which, if damaged, can also prevent proper operation. The solution is to replace the cable;
dirty brakes. If dust, dirt, ice or reagents that are sprinkled on roads in winter get on the pads, this can cause the brakes to not work properly. The solution is to press the brake pedal several times smoothly while the car is moving. Thanks to friction, the pads will be cleaned;
incorrect adjustment. It may happen that the cable system is not adjusted properly, the bolt is not tightened correctly, or the length of the cables is incorrectly selected. The solution is to adjust the system and correct tension of the cables;
pad wear. The pads are subject to abrasion during operation. Every time you apply the brakes, the pads gradually become unusable. The solution is to replace the pads;
oil in the pads. Oil or brake fluid leaks can cause the car to not hold up with the handbrake. The most important thing in this case is to identify the cause of the leak - it could be the rear axle seal or the brake cylinder. The solution is to eliminate the leak and clean the pads. If the pads are very oily, replace them.

New Lada: Stalls when the revs are reduced, when starting off when cold.

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

In foreign cars (not all of course), the rear brake mechanism (drum or disc) has self-tensioning springs, which are tightened depending on the wear of the pads.

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/

How to tighten the handbrake on a Lada Granta, when to tighten it

Tightening the handbrake cable is necessary in cases where the parking brake lever does not release the brake pads in the upper position. According to science, the pads should block the wheels at 4-6 clicks and hold the car on a slope of 20-25 degrees. Otherwise, we won’t even be able to pass the technical inspection.

Parking brake design

To tighten the handbrake cable, we need to unscrew and move to the side the protective cover of the muffler resonator. It is attached to four studs welded into the body. The difficulty is that when unscrewing these four nuts with a 10mm socket, there is a danger that the studs will break, since the threads often sour and rust.

In this case, adjusting the handbrake may result in drilling the bottom and welding new 6 mm bolts up to 25 mm long. As a last resort, they can simply be inserted into the hole in the bottom by inserting a powerful washer and placing a grommet under the head of the bolt. In a word, we have already prepared ourselves mentally, all that remains is to consider the process itself.

And yet, it is very important to treat these same casing studs in advance with a penetrating lubricant, for example, WD-40. True, this is also connected with traveling under a car

We adjust the handbrake on Grant with our own hands, video

If we are ready for difficulties, then for adjustment we will need a standard set of tools, grease for processing threads and lubricating the compensator, as well as an inspection hole or overpass. If everything is ready, let's go.

Release the handbrake completely and go under the car.
We find the studs with nuts we need and try to unscrew them with a 10mm socket.
Remove the rubber muffler hanger from the bracket and move the heat shield as far forward as possible.
We gained access to a 13 mm nut for adjusting the tension of the handbrake cable.
Use an open-end wrench to hold the locknut, and with another wrench we tighten it several turns, controlling the tension of the cable.
We tighten the cables until they are lightly tensioned, and then check the tightening force. The suspended rear wheel should rotate freely when the handbrake lever is lowered.

After this, we check the parking brake in accordance with the regulatory data. Below we have attached a video of the process of extreme adjustment of the handbrake on Grant. Good luck to everyone and strong brakes!

LADA GRANTA. TIGHTEN THE HANDBRAKE CABLE

Adjusting the handbrake cable on the LADA “Granta”

To carry out the work, access to the cable from the bottom is necessary, so the adjustment of the Grant handbrake cable after replacement is carried out while the muffler heat shield has not yet been put in place. Next you should do the following:

lower the handbrake lever all the way;
loosen the locknut on the adjusting device (if it is tightened);
screw the adjusting nut onto the cable shank until the latter is tensioned;
make sure that the free play of the lever in the cabin is from 2 to 4 clicks;
if necessary, adjust the cable tension;
tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting nut with a wrench;
Install a muffler heat shield.

When the handbrake cable is adjusted, you can check the car while driving.

Parking brake device

Before replacing the handbrake cable or tightening it, you need to understand the design of the mechanism. It is designed quite simply and consists of the following main parts:

Lever with spring-loaded button and latch. Located in the cabin on the right hand of the driver.
A metal rod with a pin at the end and a rocker arm for installing the cable is located under the bottom of the car and attached to the lever. This is the “handbrake” tensioning device.
The ends of the cable (or two cables), installed on the rocker arm, are attached to the brake levers of the rear wheels - disc or drum.

The parking brake works like this: when the driver lifts the lever in the passenger compartment, the rocker moves forward and acts on the pads through a cable drive. In drum mechanisms, the brake pads move apart, and in disc mechanisms, they converge. The “handbrake” holds only the rear wheels and functions independently of the main brake system, which is activated when the pedal is pressed.

The handle is fixed in several positions thanks to the latch. To unlock it and lower it to its original position, a special button is installed at the end of the handle. If the pads “grab” the wheels on the second click, and after the fourth click they hold the car securely, then the drive is considered to be working well.

Prevention

If the brake pads are frozen, you can deal with the problem one way or another, but what can you do to prevent this from happening in the future? There are several recommendations for this.

Firstly, when leaving a car in a parking lot, it is advisable not to put it on the handbrake. If the transmission is manual, it is better to engage first or reverse gear; on a car with automatic transmission, you need to move the selector to the “Parking” position. The handbrake is used only when the car is parked on a slope. If the driver nevertheless puts the handbrake on, it is advisable to release it after a few minutes so that the formed ice crumbles, after which the handbrake lever can be pulled out again.
Secondly, before parking the car, you need to dry the brakes with several intense braking sessions. In this case, the pads and discs (drums) will heat up and the moisture will evaporate.
Thirdly, if possible, you need to go around puddles and snow slush, and if you can’t go around, you need, again, to dry the brakes.
Fourthly, the gaps between the pads and discs should be adjusted so that the moisture remaining between them does not accidentally freeze the mechanism with ice.

Removing elements of the parking brake system

We replace the parking brake cables when they are broken, pulled out, or stuck inside the sheaths, when adjusting the parking brake fails to keep the car stationary on a slope - up to 23% inclusive. We remove the parking brake lever to replace it or to replace the lever rod. The cables should be replaced simultaneously - left and right. We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass. We show the replacement of the left cable. The right cable is removed in the same way, but it is not necessary to remove the fuel tank heat shield. We unscrew the locknut and the adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod (see “Adjusting the parking brake”).

Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod.

We take out the front ends of the cables from the equalizer and remove it.

Remove the end of the left cable sheath from the bracket. Disconnect the rear end of the left cable from the parking brake drive lever (see “Replacing the rear wheel brake pads”).

We remove the cable tip from the hole in the brake shield.

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the nut... ...and remove the bracket securing the cable sheath to the rear suspension beam.

We remove the cable sheath from the holder on the rear suspension beam mounting bracket.

Using a screwdriver, bend the cable mounting bracket on the body... ...and remove the cable from the bracket. Remove the heat shield of the fuel tank (see “Removing the fuel tank”).

Remove the cable from the holder on the body.

We remove the left parking brake cable from behind the protective screen of the fuel lines. We install the cables in the following order. We mount one of the cables in the reverse order and insert its front end into the cable equalizer.

We insert the parking brake lever rod into the hole in the equalizer and tighten the adjusting nut several turns. To install another cable, we recommend making a device from a metal tube about 300 mm long and a hole with a diameter of 15–16 mm. At one end of the tube we drill a hole and cut a thread in it for a screw (M4–M6).

Device for installing cable. We secure the cable in the holders on the body and the rear suspension beam mounting bracket.

We put the tube on the rear end of the cable and fix the cable sheath on the end with a screw.

Using a rod (you can use a wrench from a set of socket heads) we press on the tip of the cable, compressing its spring. In this case, the front end of the cable will come out of the sheath and can be inserted into the equalizer. We carry out further installation of the cable in the reverse order. After replacing the cables, we adjust the parking brake. To remove the parking brake lever, unscrew the locknut and the adjusting nut from the parking brake lever rod (see “Adjusting the parking brake”). Remove the cable equalizer from the parking brake lever rod (see above). Inside the car...

... use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the three screws...

...and remove the parking brake lever trim.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the parking brake warning switch.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the self-tapping screw...

...and remove the switch.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the two bolts securing the parking brake lever bracket to the floor tunnel.

Remove the parking brake warning switch bracket.

Remove the parking brake lever with bracket and rod assembly, pulling the rod through the rubber sealing boot.

Use a screwdriver to pry up the fixing bracket of the thrust axis... ...and remove it.

Remove the axle and rod from the parking brake lever. Install the parking brake lever in reverse order. Adjusting the parking brake (see “Adjusting the parking brake”)

Design and location of the hand brake cable for the LADA Granta

The purpose of the LADA Granta handbrake cable is to transmit force from the lever in the cabin to the rear brake pads. It is enclosed in a multi-layer protective shell and has tips for attaching to the handbrake lever and the rear wheel brake drive. The adjusting nut on the cable allows you to adjust the length of the drive, and the return spring returns the system to its original state after lowering the drive lever. The handbrake cable is located under the bottom of the car and is partially covered by the muffler thermal shield.

Causes and signs of failure

The main reason why you have to change the handbrake cable of the LADA Granta is mechanical wear. The constant forces to which the cable is subjected eventually lead to its deformation (stretching) or rupture. The cause of cable breakage can also be wheel bolts of non-standard length, which catch and fray the steel threads of the cable. Signs that the parking brake cable needs to be replaced:

the cable stretches or breaks, as a result the handbrake lever rises all the way without effort and “does not hold” the car;
the cable jams in the braid, the pads do not release the brakes, the brake drum heats up when moving.

When a cable jams in the braid, you can try to lubricate it and, if the cause is not frayed threads, the problem may disappear. In all other cases, it is necessary to replace the Grant hand brake cable.

Advice: do not try to “save” the handbrake, using it as little as possible. If the cable moves infrequently in the sheath, it will eventually jam and break.

What is needed to replace the handbrake cable of the LADA Granta

To change the handbrake cable, you need access to the bottom of the car. Therefore, work must be carried out on a lift or inspection pit. In the latter case, you will additionally need a jack. In addition, you need the following tools and materials:

wheel wrench;
keys for 10, 12, 13;
2 bolts M8x60 mm;
pliers;
flat screwdriver;
WD-40;
metal brush;
handbrake cable for LADA Granta.

If the procedure was futile

In rare cases, even strict adherence to the instructions when adjusting the handbrake will not give the desired result. This happens mainly on older cars due to damage to the handbrake cable, or rather, due to its breakage. This is a fairly rare occurrence, but if used too intensively, the likelihood of a breakage increases.

If tensioning the handbrake cable did not help

The parking cable cable should also be replaced in cases where:

the cable moves with great difficulty, and lubrication of the sheath and the cable itself does not help;
stretching of the threads has occurred (over time this will lead to cable breakage);
For some reason the tips have become loose.

As in the case of adjustment, replacing the handbrake cable can be done at home, without turning to a car service center for help. The replacement process takes an order of magnitude longer, but you do not need to have any special skills or equipment for the job.

Video - Adjusting the hand brake on a Chevrolet Aveo

ELSA describes this procedure as follows:

I have great respect for German engineers who created wonderful cars, but in this case I have my own point of view. I'll try to argue.

Drum brakes have automatic adjustment, which can also be called a wear compensation mechanism. The device and essence of the action is simple: a wedge is inserted between one of the pads and the spacer bar, which, under the influence of a spring, falls down when the pads are spread apart when the brake pedal is pressed. And as the pads/drums wear out, it drops lower and lower until it hits the bar.

This wedge also prevents the pads from completely closing under the influence of the springs after releasing the brake pedal, leaving a minimum gap between them and the drum.

But I believe that after installing new pads or cables, it is better to make adjustments in the reverse order, that is, with the wedges fully raised, first bring the pads to the drums, screwing the adjusting nuts on the cables, and only then touch the brake pedal. I took a few, hopefully, visual photographs to defend my point of view.

So, position 1. The wedge is raised, the handbrake cables are NOT tensioned. When assembled, the width between the pads is 197 mm

Let me remind you that in Golf 3 the diameter of the new drum is 200 mm. By pressing the brake pedal, let the wedges fall down. At the same time, they choose half of their turn. This means that when they are completely lowered, the maximum width will be only 201 mm.

Lada Granta: repair, operation, tuning and maintenance

Perhaps checking the brakes of any car is the key to your safety

In my opinion, the car’s brakes need to be prevented and checked at least once every two weeks, this will make your driving comfortable and safe, which is the most important thing, but now we will talk about the brakes of the Lada Granta. So, let's get started!. Take the jack in your hands, lift the rear of the car with it and remove the wheel

Then remove the brake drum and unscrew the guide pins

Take the jack in your hands, lift the rear of the car with it and remove the wheel. Then remove the brake drum and unscrew the guide pins.

Next, we loosen the handbrake cable and remove the cotter pin that holds the block, after all, pull out the lever, then remove both springs, the upper one and definitely the lower one, and then remove the blocks.

First the pads, then the upper tension spring and install the lower tension spring, and of course, don’t forget to put the handbrake cable on the lever! Install the brake drum, it is advisable to clean it and lubricate it with special lubricant. It's called graphite.

After cleaning, we put it in place, then the most basic procedure is bleeding the brakes.

Bleeding the brakes.

For this you will need a partner. One person will sit in the car and press the brake 5-6 times until it hits the floor. And the second one needs to sit near the brake disc.

When you unscrew, the second one should begin to press the brake pedal; when the pedal rises, the screw will need to be tightened. And so 5-6 times.

As a result, air will escape. This will then lead to the release of brake fluid.

Please note that when the liquid pours, it should be free of bubbles. When the procedure is completed, put the wheel in place. Press the brake pedal again 2 times and try to spin the wheel, if the brake drum clings a little to the pads, everything is fine! As soon as we have pumped the front brake, we move along the diagonal to the rear brake pad, and do the same thing.

Press the brake pedal again 2 times and try to spin the wheel, if the brake drum clings a little to the pads, everything is fine! As soon as we have pumped the front brake, we move along the diagonal to the rear brake pad, and do the same thing.

All we can say is that we are almost done with the brakes. Next we tighten the handbrake. Use a special wrench to tighten the handbrake.

Keys are sold in all auto parts stores, so you should not have any difficulties buying a key.

That's all, I wish you good luck and stop breaking your brakes!

‹ Possible malfunctions Up Replacing brake fluid ›

The pads are frozen to the drum - what to do?

Defrosting brake pads if they are frozen to the drum is somewhat more difficult than on cars with disc brakes on the rear wheels. The difficulty is that the pads are located inside the brake drum, and there is no direct access to them.

In such cases, there are two ways to unlock frozen rear pads: by heating or by mechanical force. The first method is simpler and less labor-intensive, and the second is more reliable.

Method 1: Heat the pads frozen to the drum

The advantage of this method is that in most cases you will not need to jack up the car and remove the wheels to defrost the brake pads. The downside is that if the brake drum is difficult to reach, then this method is unlikely to suit you.

It is not the pads that need to be heated directly, since they are located inside the brake drum, but the drum body. To heat it, you can go in two ways:

If you are close to home, you can heat the brake drum using hot water, pouring it from a bottle or kettle. But you need to remember that in severe frost the water cools quickly and can freeze the pads to the drum even more strongly.
If you have a suitable piece of hose in your trunk (for example, a hose from a vacuum cleaner), you can attach one end of it to the exhaust pipe, and direct the other end to the brake drum. Over time, the car's exhaust gases will defrost the pads and free the wheel from its icy shackles.

But what to do if the rear brake pads are frozen far from home, and you have neither hot water nor a hose, and in the trunk there is only a jack, a wheel wrench and a simple set of tools? Then the second method will probably suit you.

Method 2: Tap the drum and release the pads

If the handbrake is frozen on a car with drum brakes, then the surest and most reliable way to unlock the rear wheels is to remove the wheels and, by tapping on the perimeter of the drum, free the pads from the ice. To do this, you need to do the following with each of the locked wheels:

Put the car in gear;
Loosen the wheel nuts with a wheel wrench;
Raise the car with a jack and remove the wheel;
To break the ice, you need to tap the brake drum with a hammer.

To avoid damaging the brake drum, you should not knock on it directly, but through a wooden spacer (for example, through a piece of board).

If you don’t have a board, you can use a wheel wrench - place it on the drum and lightly hit it with a hammer, as in the video at the bottom of the page;
Tap the drum in a circle until you hear a characteristic crackle of ice;
When the pads are free of ice and the drum can rotate freely, screw the wheel into place and move on to the next one;
Having thus freed all the frozen pads from the ice, try to move off smoothly.

How much does it cost to tighten the handbrake and can you do it yourself?

Actually the question is rhetorical, as you understand in different regions, the cost can range from 200 to 1000 rubles. For example, in the capital, the price is often 500 – 1000, but in the regions you can raise it for 250 rubles.

And to be honest, the work itself only takes a few minutes, the main thing is to find a hole or a lift, a key of 10 and off you go. You need to tighten the middle bolt, the one that is in the middle, it is the handbrake, tighten the nut and thereby tighten the cables.

Of course, if they are rusty or torn, then everything is much more complicated; it is better to trust the master, because replacing the cables from the rear drums is not at all an easy task.

That's all, read our AUTOBLOG, I think it clarified the situation.

(7 votes, average: 4.57 out of 5)

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Procedure

As practice shows, repairing the parking brake comes down to replacing the handbrake cable, but in most cases, the operation of the unit can be restored with the help of a tensioner. If you follow clear instructions, then no problems with adjustment should arise.

Tools

To adjust the handbrake, you need to prepare the following tools:

flat screwdriver;
a set of keys, including a cylinder key;
wrench with nozzle 18;
wheel chock or other wheel supports;
jack;
work gloves.

Minimum required set of tools

To adjust the cable, it is advisable to use a telescopic jack to raise the car to a greater height. But if this is not the case, then a different type of jack will do, for example, a rack and pinion jack. After all the tools are prepared, you can begin to work.

Instructions

There are several requirements that must be met before making adjustments. First of all, the brake system must be fully operational and free of air. The driver must also make sure that all holders, cables and the lever itself are in good condition. Now you can get started. Below are step-by-step instructions that allow you to make adjustments in the shortest possible period of time.

Important points

It is best to use two people to disconnect the tip from the brake pads. One person should carefully press the brake rocker with a large screwdriver (or a thin pry bar), the second at this moment will be able to freely loosen the lock nut, after which the cable can be pulled out of the holder without risking injury to your hands.
As soon as the cable is removed, its attachment points should be thoroughly cleaned of rust and dirt. The best way to do this is with a wire brush. Those places in the brake shield where the cable passes must be wiped with solvent.
If too much rust has accumulated in the through passages of the cable, you should use concentrated acetic acid, as it corrodes rust well. You only need to work with it wearing gloves to avoid chemical burns.
Before installing the brake drum, be sure to check the condition of the pads. If the spacers on the pads are very worn (and most likely this will be the case), they need to be replaced with new ones. A set of such strips can be purchased at any auto store.

The principle of operation of the handbrake on Grant

Why does it need to be tightened frequently?

In foreign cars (not all of course), the rear brake mechanism (drum or disc) has self-tensioning springs, which are tightened depending on the wear of the pads.

How a properly configured handbrake should work

The handbrake movement in a Lada Granta car should be no more than 6 clicks from the moment it is raised. It is possible to increase the handbrake stroke to 8 clicks, but it is not recommended.

It shouldn’t be like this (the brakes don’t grab the rear wheels)

Ideally, of course, 3-4 clicks. With this setting of the handbrake, you will have a reserve of movement when the cable weakens and the wheels begin to grip later.

If you experience a situation where the handbrake is “pulled out” to its fullest extent, but the wheels do not grab, then the following reasons are possible:

rear brake pads are worn out;
the handbrake cable is broken or stretched/

I am changing the handbrake cable on Kalina. Adjusting the parking brake Kalina How to tighten the handbrake on Kalina with your own hands. Just. Available.

Pull up the handbrake

two open-end wrenches for 13, one of them is preferably a socket one;
one key head for 8;
a faithful assistant (although in desperate situations you can get by alone).

Lada Granta Liftback 8kl › Logbook › how to tighten the handbrake cable without a hole

The time has come my friend. The handbrake stopped holding on the last click. As always, you don’t find time to stop by a hundred, and when you do, you don’t find anyone willing. One is up to his ears, the other doesn’t even want to take it (what the hell is that handbrake), the third promises for tomorrow and the next day, and so on. I have as many as 2 holes, but I can’t get to any of them. The father-in-law's pit is blocked by an ancient Muscovite who will not go anywhere. My hole is blocked by a pile of rubble, a pile of sand and a pile of construction debris. I have a renovation. So what now? Don't slow down, right? It's decided. We find a day off, don’t sit our ass on the sofa and dress warmly in work clothes. We lift the grant with a jack, not forgetting to place bricks under the wheels. We throw a sheet of penoplex on the ground (who is rich in what). For peace of mind and confidence. so that you won’t be crushed, we put a good stump, log, boards, etc. right in the middle of the body. Look at the photo.

We crawl up and see that the adjusting bolt is not only located behind the barrel, it is also covered with a bit of protection. Granta. You are so Granta...

We unscrew the 4 nuts by 10. Do not lose the groovers and flat washers. In order to move the protection, you need to remove this rubber plug.

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