Front wheel drives LADA Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

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How to adjust your wheel alignment yourself

In most cases, wheel alignment is adjusted on special stands with computer calculation of these angles. However, it is possible to perform a wheel alignment in a garage, but to do this you will need to know how to perform the installation correctly, as well as have the equipment to perform this procedure. To adjust the angles you will need:

  • A set of keys;
  • Special measuring ruler;
  • Chalk;
  • Cord with weight;
  • Ruler (regular):

Wheel camber adjustment

When adjusting wheel alignment with your own hands, the first thing to do is measure the camber of the wheels. Although this angle is measured in degrees, it can be converted into a millimeter value. The sequence of actions for calculating camber is as follows:

  1. The car is placed on a flat surface. It is advisable to carry out the test in a garage with an inspection hole. In this case, there must be space to move the car, which will be needed during measurements.
  2. After installing the car on the site, you need to align the wheels so that they “look” straight. After aligning the wheels, you need to put small marks on the wheel with chalk. Marks are placed at the top and bottom of the wheel.
  3. Next, take a cord with a weight. It must be attached to the fender of the car so that the cord has a strictly parallel position relative to the applied marks. For convenience, the cord can be glued to the wing with tape.
  4. A regular ruler with millimeter divisions measures the distance from the wheel to the cord at the top and bottom. To avoid error, this distance is measured not from the tire, but from the wheel rim.
  5. Afterwards, the car needs to be rolled forward so that the applied marks rotate 90 degrees. Two more marks are applied to the wheel again at the top and bottom parallel to the cord and the distance between the cord and the rim in its upper and lower parts is again measured.
  6. Then the car is rolled again, but this time so that the wheels turn 180 degrees. That is, the last two marks should change location. The top one will move down, and the bottom one will move up and measurements are taken again.
  7. The difference in the three measurements should not be significantly different. Also, with a normal camber angle, the difference between the distances in the upper and lower parts of the wheel for all three measurements should be 1 mm for a car with front-wheel drive, and 1-3 mm for a rear-wheel drive model.
  8. If the indicators differ, adjustments need to be made. To do this, the car is jacked up and the wheel is removed.
  9. After removing the wheel, you will need to disconnect the strut bracket from the steering knuckle. To do this, you will need to use a prepared set of keys.
  10. By turning the eccentric bolt on the steering knuckle, it moves in one direction or another, thereby making adjustments. Early measurements will tell you how much you need to move the steering knuckle.
  11. After this, the strut bracket is connected to the fist and the car wheel is put in place. After installing the wheel camber, you will need to take measurements again to make sure the adjustment is correct.

Adjusting the wheel toe angle

Having finished with the camber, you can move on to checking and adjusting the second angle - toe.

The sequence of checking and adjusting this angle is as follows:

  1. The car is placed on the platform, the wheels are aligned.
  2. Two marks are applied on the inside of the wheels in the front part; they need to be applied closer to the rim.
  3. A telescopic ruler for measuring toe-in is prepared by creating a preload on it. The ends of the ruler need to rest against the existing marks. The moving scale of the ruler must be moved so that it coincides with the fixed pointer.
  4. After installing the ruler, the car needs to be rolled forward so that the ruler is at the rear of the wheel. When rolling, it is important to make sure that the ruler does not catch on anything.
  5. Next you need to see if there is a deviation on the scale and by how much. For front-wheel drive cars, the toe value should be “0/+-1”. If the ruler readings are like this, then no adjustment is needed.
  6. If the readings are greater, then the toe-in is adjusted. This operation is performed by changing the length of the steering rods. You need to loosen the lock nut on the rod and, depending on whether you need to lengthen it or shorten it, you need to either unscrew it a little or screw it in. Then tighten the locknut again.
  7. Having finished with the adjustment, you need to take measurements again.

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Removing the shock strut assembly with the steering knuckle

We carry out the work on a lift or inspection ditch.

Loosen the front wheel mounting bolts.

We remove the hub cap, unscrew the hub mounting nut with a 30mm socket and remove the washer.

Remove the front wheel.

We unscrew the nine screws and two bolts securing the engine mudguard and remove the middle engine mudguard.

Using pliers, undo the cotter pin and use a 19mm wrench to unscrew the nut 3 (Figure 2) securing the ball pin of the outer tie rod end 1.

We press the ball pin out of the swing arm 2 of the front suspension strut.

Using a 19mm socket, unscrew nut 3, Figure 3, securing the ball pin to the lower arm of the front suspension and press ball pin 2 out of lever 4 (article - Repair, removal of the ball joint).

Using a TORX E8 socket, unscrew the bolt securing the speed sensor (if the car has ABS) to the bracket on the steering knuckle and remove the sensor from the bracket.

We remove the sensor harness from the guide bracket on the front suspension strut.

Unscrew and remove the pad guide with the caliper and cylinder assembly.

We tie the bracket to the brake hose bracket (Figure 4).

We remove the outer CV joint from the wheel hub and fix it in a suspended state using a wire or a technological hook.

If after removing the shock strut you need to disassemble it, then use a 22mm spanner to loosen the tightening of the rod nut (Fig. 5), holding the rod from turning with a 6mm hexagon.

Using a 13 socket, unscrew the three nuts 2, Figure 5, securing the upper support of the telescopic strut 1 to the mudguard 3 of the body and remove the washers.

Remove the strut assembly with the steering knuckle and ball pin.

Remove the lower support from the upper support 1, Figure 6.

Installing the shock strut assembly with the steering knuckle

Install the speed sensor bracket onto the steering knuckle and secure it with a bolt. Bolt tightening torque 7 – 15 Nm.

We install the lower support on the upper support of the rack.

When installing the lower support, the direction of the arrow on it must coincide with the arrow on the upper support. On the left support to the right of the hole, on the right - to the left.

When installing the rack into the car body, the arrow on the support should be oriented in the direction of travel of the car.

We install the strut assembly with the steering knuckle, brake and ball pin into the car body, install the washers and tighten the three nuts securing the strut to the body mudguard. Nut tightening torque 20…24 Nm (2.0…2.4 kgf.m)

We insert the splined part of the outer drive joint into the wheel hub, put on the washer and tighten, without tightening, the new wheel hub nut.

We press the ball pin into the suspension arm and tighten the nut securing the ball pin. The tightening torque of the nut is 67…82 Nm (6.7…8.2 kgf.m).

We thread the front wheel speed sensor harness into the guide bracket of the front suspension strut, install the sensor in the sensor bracket and secure it with a bolt. The bolt tightening torque is 6…9 Nm (0.6…0.9 kgf.m).

Before installing the speed sensor, apply lubricant (LSTs-15 lubricant) to the surface of the mating hole.

We press the ball pin of the tie rod end into the swing arm of the front suspension strut and tighten the nut securing the ball pin. The tightening torque of the nut is 28…34 Nm (2.8…3.4 kgf.m).

We tighten the nut. If the cutout of the nut does not coincide with the hole in the ball pin, retighten the nut to an angle of no more than 60˚ to ensure cotter pinning.

Install the wheel and tighten it without tightening the front wheel mounting bolts.

We lower the car, tighten and lock the front wheel hub fastening nut, deforming the locking belt of the nut into the grooves of the shank of the outer drive joint housing. We install wheel caps. The tightening torque of the nut is 230 - 250 Nm (23 - 25 kgf.m).

Tighten the front wheel mounting bolts. The tightening torque of the bolts is 76 – 92 Nm. Install the engine splash guard.

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A little history

The first cars were rear-wheel drive. This is due to the fact that for primitive (from a modern point of view) cars with which production began, rear-wheel drive was cheaper to implement, more reliable in use, more economical in terms of fuel consumption and more unpretentious in various driving conditions.

One of the first front-wheel drive cars, the Cord L29, manufactured in 1929 in the States by Auburn Automobile, is also inscribed in the history of the automotive industry. But even with all its fame, won mainly thanks to its elegant design, at that time this car was still inferior in popularity to rear-wheel drive cars.

Gradually the design was refined and improved.

Today, cars with driven front wheels are produced by almost any major automotive manufacturer. Moreover, in the modern automotive industry, front-wheel drive cars are more common than cars of other types of transmission design.

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Lada Granta right drive length

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measure the length of the shaft; shafts viburnum, ten, chisel have different lengths 2108 - 660mm 2110 - 680mm 1118 - 730mm

Tomorrow I’ll try to remove it from the fence on a jack. I can’t go anywhere, the box is empty, I’d like to know how long the right shaft on the 21102 should be - maybe on an eight-valve engine - not like the 16kL. Thank you - I’ve been following the links for an hour and couldn’t find these parameters .

measure the length of the shaft; shafts viburnum, ten, chisel have different lengths 2108 - 660mm 2110 - 680mm 1118 - 730mm

Here is the answer after my request from VAZ specialists for design drawings of the exact dimensions of the right long drive shaft. 2110 may be useful to someone: 06/25/10 “Good afternoon, K.S. I. It is quite possible that your car has a model 2108 drive. It is 7 mm shorter than the “tenth”. According to the drawing, the length of the drive shaft of model 2110 should be 669.4 mm ('eighth' - 662.4 mm) including tips. What is 'wide diameter distance - 450 ml.' It’s not entirely clear, it’s not regulated.” Department of inspection of service and sales network enterprises. Head Office. A V.

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Lada Granta right drive length

The shaft spline is threaded . This is due to the technology of production of shafts from steel used in the manufacture of VAL-RACING shafts.

An original technology of hardening and subsequent straightening of the shaft using the “blunt striker” technology was used, which allows straightening without damage or microcracks.

The shafts are made of certified, structural, alloyed steel of a special grade with the following characteristics:

σв— temporary tensile strength (tensile strength), MPa = 1980 (at a tempering temperature of 200 degrees)

This steel is used for the manufacture of torsion shafts and other loaded transmission parts operating under torsional, variable and high dynamic loads. Related to torsion steels.

(On the auto parts market, drive shafts made of 30KhGSA steel are available.

σв—temporary tensile strength (tensile strength), MPa = 1700 (at a tempering temperature of 200 degrees)

In the production of these shafts VAL-RACING for Lada 4x4. this steel is not used.)

Regular tests are carried out on a special control and measuring stand of a manufacturer of popular cars in Russia, which allows smooth loading of the test object with torque until it breaks down.

Test result: Drive shaft of the left wheel of a LADA car, manufactured by VAL-RACING

The static strength limit is 404 kgf m, the elastic limit is 260 kgf m, the twist angle is up to 120 degrees.

(photo of shaft L400 mm) the breakdowns correspond.

(Test result: The shaft fracture occurred along the groove for the thrust ring, the nature of the fracture was a ductile fracture at a right angle to the axis, an even cut.

Note: According to the design documentation, the strength limit for the front wheel drives of VAZ vehicles is Mpr = 250 kgf m, not lower.

Guarantee:12 months from date of sale
Price for:1 PC
Weight:2.2kg
Dimensions:69cm

Applicability (manual transmission):

  • Lada Kalina station wagon (VAZ 1117)
  • Lada Kalina sedan (VAZ 1118)
  • Lada Kalina hatchback (VAZ 1119)
  • Lada Kalina sport (VAZ 1119)
  • Lada Kalina 2 hatchback (VAZ 2192)
  • Lada Kalina 2 station wagon (VAZ 2194)
  • Lada Kalina 2 sport (VAZ 2192)
  • Lada Granta sedan (2190)
  • Lada Granta sport (2190)
  • Lada Granta liftback (2191)
  • Lada Granta FL liftback (after 18)
  • Lada Granta FL sedan (after 18)
  • Datsun mi-DO
  • Datsun on-DO
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