Steering shaft LADA Granta / VAZ 2190 from 2011

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Cross design

The mechanism of the steering shaft crosspiece performs a transport-guiding function and is designed to transmit the torque of the wheel to the gear of the rack and pinion assembly. The transmission of torque is carried out by the steering shaft cardan, to which the crosspiece is attached. In many models of modern cars, the crosspiece performs the same function and has a similar shape. The cross itself consists of four identical protrusions, each of which is equipped with needle-type bearings. All elements of the cross are made of high-strength steel and must withstand high loads.

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Description

Intermediate steering shaft SS20 for Lada Kalina, Kalina 2, Granta with EUR, all-metal.

In the SS20 steering shaft, instead of needle roller bearings, the cardan uses plain bearings using elastic bushings.

Applicability:

-Lada Kalina, (VAZ 1117,1118,1119);

-Lada Kalina 2, (VAZ 2192, VAZ 2194);

-Lada Granta, (VAZ 2190, VAZ 2191).

Advantages of using the SS20 steering shaft in VAZ cars:

•silent operation - the universal joint with elastic bushings has no play and therefore does not knock;

•easy rotation and absence of jamming is ensured by the presence of high-quality lubrication and high anti-friction properties of the cardan shaft bushings;

•elastic cardan bushings have sufficient strength, do not wrinkle and have minimal wear, which ensures a long service life.

1 year warranty.

Article: SS20.93.00.000-02.

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Signs of wear on the crosspiece

Often, motorists do not pay attention to insignificant signs that it is time to make repairs, and wait until the problem makes itself known publicly and this is fraught with consequences, especially when it comes to loss of vehicle controllability.

The first signs of wear on the crosspiece appear as:

  • the presence of noticeable resistance to the steering wheel when rotating at speeds above 80 km/h;
  • delayed wheel turning and loss of sensitivity (delayed response of wheels and steering shaft);
  • increased free play angle of the wheels (popularly this symptom is also called “Steering play”);
  • uneven rotation of the steering wheel, the steering wheel moves with sharp jerks;
  • obvious grinding or knocking noise that occurs when the steering wheel is rotated; the grinding becomes especially noticeable and obvious on an uneven road.

Most often, motorists turn to a car service center to replace the steering shaft crosspiece mechanism only when the last sign of a malfunction appears, but in vain, because in the event of an emergency, the steering control will not be able to adequately respond to the driver’s efforts, and sometimes, the steering control may even fail, this is already fraught with very big troubles.

Repair of the shaft cross is carried out every 50 - 100 thousand, it is better more often, otherwise it will have to be completely replaced with a new one.

To replace, you will need to purchase a crosspiece - on average 150-300 rubles, some car services claim that for the steering to work correctly, you need the entire steering shaft (4 - 7 thousand rubles), but on most cars it is enough to change only the crosspiece.

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Diagnostics, repair and reassembly

Before determining why there is a knock in the steering, you should completely disassemble the rack and carry out diagnostics for wear, destruction of components and connections. Disassembly is carried out in this order. Secure the steering rack in a vice, having previously installed spacers made of soft metal or other material. Unscrew the nut securing the mechanism crankcase pipe. The crankcase tube is removed. Remove the clamps securing the pipe bushings and remove them.

Unscrew the adjusting nut. Here you need to use a special 24mm wrench, which has external edges for unscrewing. Sequentially remove the rack stop spring, the sealing ring and the rack stop. Remove the crankcase cover. After removing the bearing cage and sealing ring, remove the rack. The second element of the steering mechanism pair - the gear shaft - is dismantled.

Now you can diagnose the condition of the bearings and sealing rings. After thorough cleaning, the wear of the gear sectors and the condition of the surface of the rack and shaft are assessed. After all, this is where the reason lies that causes the knocking that appears. If necessary, select the necessary parts and replace them.

Before reassembly, all critical connections are lubricated with a special compound. Very often, it is the insufficient amount of lubricant that leads to rapid wear of loaded parts, which violates the previously established clearance. Therefore, even a recently installed rack knocks again.

Assembling the steering mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. For correct and easy installation of dismantled bearings, you should select the required diameter of pipe cutting, which will help to correctly install the bearings in place. The assembled steering mechanism must be adjusted, since the size of the gap can also determine whether a knock will appear after reinstallation.

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How do you know when it's time to change the driveshaft?

Signs of its malfunction are noticeable, but have little effect on the quality of movement, which is why many car owners ignore the problem until the last moment, almost to the point of losing control of the car. You should not ignore signs of a malfunction; if at least two appear at once, you need to immediately carry out diagnostics. What are the signs of wear or breakage?

  • When driving at a speed of more than 80 km/h, the steering wheel resists when turning, making it more difficult to turn.
  • The steering wheel turns unevenly and jerks when turning, which puts additional stress on the hands.
  • The steering wheel has become less sensitive, and the turning of the wheels responds to control late.
  • The appearance of noticeable play (free movement of wheels with stable fixation of the steering wheel).
  • Vibration of the driveshaft. Check with a tachometer to see if this vibration appears at one speed or at different speeds. Only vibration at different speeds indicates problems with the cardan; if it occurs at different speeds, but at the same frequency, then you need to think about how to change the steering cardan on a grant, because the speed of the cardan was different at that time.
  • Knocking and grinding noises in the steering wheel, especially when driving on rough roads.

The last sign is the final one, indicating a serious breakdown; if brought to this stage, the mechanism will have to be completely changed, which will cost about 7 thousand rubles. If a breakdown does occur, you can carry out repairs yourself. The procedure is quite complicated, and given the importance of the mechanism, it should only be carried out if you have experience in repairing a car.

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How to fix

The main reason for knocking is that the cardan located at the bottom of the engine shield is weakened.

The second driveshaft is not visible; it is located behind the cover of the electric power steering control unit. To make it easier to tighten and see the mechanism, you need to remove the steering wheel cover. The photo shows the electric amplifier and its electronics unit.

I removed the metal box that is held in place with screws. They were tightened very tightly; I had to use a special power screwdriver with a ratchet. Behind it you can see the second cardan, on which you need to check the tightness, which I did.

Surprisingly, nothing was loosened after 45 thousand miles. On other cars with lower mileage, the driveshafts usually weaken earlier.

Possible malfunctions of the electric power steering

Within a few minutes you can get rid of the knocking sound of the steering gearbox. Of course, this will not help in all cases. But before tightening the rack, try checking the cardans.

Knock in Lada Granta suspension - repair at an authorized dealer

Write how you eliminated extraneous noise, squeaks and knocks. What was their reason and what happened. I wish you good luck and goodness!

Purpose of the steering rack

In the photo, the steering rack is disassembled for diagnostics and replacement of lubricant

The steering rack or steering gear is designed to transmit force from the steering wheel to the wheels through special rods.

This device is one of the most basic parts of the steering and comes in three types:

  • Mechanical - is installed less and less nowadays.
  • Electric - if overheated, the electric motor may fail.
  • Hydraulic - in such devices a hydraulic pump is mounted, which makes it easier to turn the steering wheel.

Video with an extraneous knock in the steering rack on a Lada Kalina

The most common causes of knocking

  1. The steering rack mechanism needs to be tightened. Read about how to easily cope with such work in this article.
  2. The connection between the steering column cardan and the splines is loose or loose. In this case, you only need to re-tighten this connection with an old or new bolt and nut.

It is this bolt, marked with a red marker, that should be tightened.

It is these two reasons that become the basis for the appearance of extraneous knocking coming from the steering rack. If diagnosing these problems does not lead to anything, then it is already necessary to remove the rack from the car and more carefully look for the problem on the already dismantled device.

Other causes of knocking and steering rack malfunction

  1. Leaking seals and corrosion on the rack.
  2. Worn central tooth on steering rack.
  3. The working pair has worn out.
  4. Wear of components such as the disc spring.

On the left is a worn one, on the right is a new disc spring from the steering rack.

Lada Granta suspension device

Front suspension device (diagram)

1 — cover; 2 — ball joint; 3 - retaining ring; 4 — hub bearing nut; 5 — protective cap; 6 — hub; 7 — hub bearing; 8 — steering knuckle; 9 — front wheel brake disc; 10 — brake mechanism shield; 11 - nut; 12 — eccentric (adjusting) bolt; 13 — rotary lever; 14 — front suspension spring; 15 — shock absorber rod; 16 — upper spring cup; 17 — upper support of the shock absorber strut; 18 — shock absorber rod nut; 19 — bearing of the upper support of the shock absorber strut; 20 — spring gasket; 21 — front suspension compression buffer; 22 — protective casing; 23 — telescopic stand; 24 — front wheel drive shaft; 25 — bracket for mounting the anti-roll bar cushion; 26 — front suspension stretch; 27 — anti-roll bar; 28 — stabilizer bar; 29 — front suspension arm
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