✅ Lada Largus gas pedal - arz-velolife.ru

January 11, 2018 Lada.Online 285 230 23

We determine the model of the accelerator pedal; this can be done by the catalog number, which is glued to the side of the body. If you cannot access the sticker, you will have to remove the electronic gas pedal:

Disconnect the block with wires next to the gas pedal;
Unscrew three nuts using a 10mm wrench;
Remove the housing and pedal assembly.

The manufacturer installs at least two types of electronic gas pedals on Lada cars (depending on the year of manufacture):

Old model (catalog number: 11183-1108500);
New sample (article: 11183-1108500-01).

Each block is modified differently. Attention! You do all further actions at your own peril and risk. In addition, you may lose your warranty.

Modification or adjustment of the electronic gas pedal (E-gas) on the Lada

E-GAS or electronic gas pedal is installed on all Lada models (XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora and Niva 4x4).
Owner reviews about it are not reassuring; many complain that the e-gas pedal is “dumb” (less sensitive and informative than a conventional cable). Did you know that in some cases the electronic accelerator pedal can be adjusted to be more responsive and a little livelier? We determine the model of the accelerator pedal; this can be done by the catalog number, which is glued to the side of the body. If you cannot access the sticker, you will have to remove the electronic gas pedal:

Disconnect the block with wires next to the gas pedal;
Unscrew three nuts using a 10mm wrench;
Remove the housing and pedal assembly.

The manufacturer installs at least two types of electronic gas pedals on Lada cars (depending on the year of manufacture):

Old model (catalog number: 11183-1108500);
New sample (article: 11183-1108500-01).

Each block is modified differently. Attention! You do all further actions at your own peril and risk. In addition, you may lose your warranty.

How to remove and clean the throttle valve on Renault Logan, Largus, Duster

The main purpose of the throttle valve is to regulate the air supply to the engine to obtain optimal characteristics of the air-fuel mixture. In Renault K4M engines, this process is carried out through a cable connected to the gas pedal. The damper position is controlled by a sensor connected to an electronic control unit. If the throttle seals become depressurized, the system tries to compensate for this by changing the number of revolutions and the engine begins to “float”. To avoid these problems, periodically cleaning the throttle valve of Renault Logan 1.6 and other models where the sixteen-valve K4M engine is installed is required.

Adjusting old-style E-gas

The block cover (11183-1108500) is fixed with bolts that are inserted into oval holes. The improvement is this. to loosen the 4 screws and turn the cover in the desired direction:

Economy mode (counterclockwise). To drive smoothly, to accelerate, you should press the pedal a little more than before. Gasoline consumption is reduced;
Active mode (clockwise). The car reacts even with slight pressure on the gas pedal. Gasoline consumption increases. The pedal becomes more sensitive and informative.

In other words, we get the same effect as after installing JETTER (Jetter or spur).

It has been noticed that the first minutes after such settings, the idle speed may be increased (about 1300 rpm). But after a minute, the ECU gradually adjusted and the speed dropped to the usual level. If this does not happen, turn on the ignition for a minute and then start the engine.

If necessary, you can easily return to the original position (mark it in advance).

How to check E-gas

If you have doubts about the performance of the product itself, you should dismantle and check the unit using a multimeter.

Main symptoms of a malfunction:

“Chek” lighted up on the dashboard (error 0504 during diagnostics);
when you press the gas pedal, the responsiveness disappeared;
increased engine speed is diagnosed when changing gearbox speeds.

If we talk about the causes of malfunctions, the most common of them are:

failure of one or both MPG sensors;
malfunction of sensors as a result of oxidation of contact tracks, their contamination.

As mentioned earlier, in order to check E-gas grants, you need to use a multimeter. To carry out diagnostic measurements of electrical circuits, the module must be dismantled by first disconnecting it from the contact chip.

After that, you need to switch the operating position of the measuring device to ohmmeter mode. The point of the test is that it is necessary to alternately measure the condition of the contacts and conductive paths of the MPG sensors. For example: connect one probe of the device to contact No. 2, and the other to No. 4. While keeping both probes attached, slowly step on the gas pedal and observe the readings on the meter. A normal reaction is considered to be a smooth decrease in electrical resistance when pressing the accelerator. An abrupt, unstable decrease indicates a possible sensor malfunction. A similar sequence of actions is taken for the remaining contacts.

Refinement of a new electronic gas pedal

The pedal assembly (11183-1108500-01) does not have oval holes, which does not allow adjustment in the manner described above. Instead, it is proposed to cut off the protrusion (by 2-3 mm), which prevents the pedal from moving completely. This modernization made it possible to increase the pedal travel, which made acceleration with “pedal to the floor” more active. It is also noted that there is no hesitation when pressing the pedal sharply.

What I don’t like about the pedal assembly (8450008980), which is installed on Lada Vesta:

tight gas pedal;
large free play of the gas pedal (about 8 mm at the tip of the pedal).

What was decided to do:

remove one of the return springs to make the pedal softer;
Place a spacer to reduce the free play of the pedal.

How to measure pedal free play:

Let's start the engine.
Place a ruler at the tip of the pedal.
Smoothly press the pedal until the engine begins to gain speed.
We remember the distance on the ruler.

We remove and disassemble the electronic gas pedal:

Disconnect the connector (by pressing the inside of the upper part of the latch)
Unscrew three nuts (head “10”).
Remove the top cover by unscrewing the fastening screws.
Remove the rheostat slider by unscrewing the screw.

Remove the spring (holding them with a screwdriver from the outside).

Remove the white support spacers, remembering how they were installed.
We measure the distance between the support pad of the return spring lever and the support rubber in the body, retracting the pedal to the amount of free play (indicated by an arrow).
We glue the material of the same thickness (in this example we use 4 mm stickers for furniture legs and doors) using glue or double-sided tape.

We assemble the pedal assembly and install it in the car. The idle motion of the pedal should be minimal, about 1 mm. If the engine idle speed is higher than usual, and there is no free play of the pedal at all, then too much has been added. You will have to repeat the adjustment operation, adjusting the thickness of the lining. The same thing applies if the free play after adjustment remains more than 1-2 mm.

Feedback on the E-Gas modification

Car enthusiasts who have already completed the adjustment note that if you move the pedal assembly cover clockwise, the car becomes a little more lively. If you press the pedal as before and the car starts to move, you have to get used to it and not press the gas so hard. When you press the pedal to the floor, you can't feel the difference.

Those who adjusted the E-gas for a quieter ride noticed that driving on the highway became more comfortable. Now, to maintain speed, you need to press the gas pedal a little harder, which allows your leg to not be as tense as before.

Other motorists do not believe in the positive effect, saying that it is all self-hypnosis. The operation of the electronic gas pedal is based on changing the resistance difference. And even if you move the cover, when the engine starts, the ECU will still consider it to be zero and adjust the throttle from this point. And if you increase the sector stroke, the E-gas error “signal outside the permissible limits!” will appear.

Have you encountered such modification of E-gas? What feedback can you leave about such adjustments? Is there a positive effect or is it all at the level of self-hypnosis? Let us remind you that if necessary, you can check the E-gas yourself. By the way, an alternative to modifying the electronic gas pedal is chip tuning.

Changing the old accelerator cable on a Largus with a K7M engine

Greetings to all largus guides who have visited my blog at this moment.

One day my Larik had burrs on his throttle cable. As they say, the cable got stuck. Two or three hairs broke. It's hard to say exactly when this happened. I can only assume that in the third or fourth year of owning the car. The mileage at that time exceeded 60 thousand. It was then that I began to notice that the pedal was working discretely. That is, she reached a certain point, resisted slightly, and only after that continued her move. The former smoothness has disappeared. As a result, the car jerked in traffic, which was sometimes very annoying. A visit under the hood and a quick inspection revealed the culprit of the problem, which turned out to be a cable.

It is not recommended to drive with such damage. It will only progress further. At the point of friction, the hairs will gradually fray until it finally reaches the most persistent ones. And when they give up, there will inevitably be a break. The cable may get snagged. Then you can easily get stuck in a traffic jam, scaring those around you with the strong roar of the engine, or be left on the highway without a controlled throttle. To prevent this from happening, change the cable as soon as such damage is discovered. The spare part is inexpensive and, as will be seen later, is easy to change.

In my case, the cable was frayed at the point where it exited the corrugated tube. A whole groove had been scratched into it. By the time of replacement, the number of broken wires had increased. But help for the steel worker was on the way. I went to the auto shop to get a new cable.

What cable did you buy?

The choice offline turned out to be small. A brand new original and a Romanian analogue were on sale. I chose the Romanian Asam-30371. The price for it was 349 rubles. The discount card pleased me with several bonuses. They were written off into a common pot. As a result, I bought it for 265 rubles.

I was offered an original throttle cable for the K7M engine for 1900 rubles. I decided not to overpay.

Here is an evening photo of the hero of the post. He appeared before me in an ordinary plastic bag with company logos and two stickers. One contains information about applicability, the other is just a halogram.

Sticker with close-up information.

Original article

The item number of the original cable according to the Largus catalog is 6001546868 . Other 182013208R .

According to the autopilot, the manufacturer of the first is Russia (400 rubles), the second is Renault (1,700 rubles).

Analogs

The most common replacements are:

FranceCar FCR210151 approximately 360 rub.
BRECKNER BK19003 approximately 800 rub.
Automotor France ATC 6868 approximately 500 rub.
TRK 0614 approximately 300 rub.
Original RG6001546868

Prices in online stores

If you order online, it will be a little cheaper. Here are a few locations and estimated prices.

Logan-shop original 1550 rub., Asam - 340 rub.
Autodoc 1723 rub., Asam - 320 rub. ( upon registration, bonus 100 rubles using code d623793Q )

I didn’t order online myself, only because I wanted to get rid of it in one day. Don't wait until the cable arrives after a while.

I remove the cable

It all happened on a dark, frosty evening, by the light of a headlamp and in office clothes. Poorly prepared. It is what it is. But he changed his down jacket, and his old duty frock coat lay in the trunk. The car was dirty.

I threw the mat onto the asphalt, clean side up. He opened the door wide open to make it easier to get to the pedal assembly. I moved the seat all the way back.

I climb to remove the boss from the pedal. I have to grunt. With my knees on the rug, I wipe off the dirt from the threshold with my frock coat. Nobody said it would be convenient. By turning the hand, the boss pops out of the slot. The cable is free. I return to the starting position and go under the hood.

Then he performed the action, which according to the manual sounds like this: “Remove the cable end from the intermediate throttle drive lever.” The air filter housing did not interfere much, so I did not remove it. On an eight-valve engine, you can easily get to the lever from the side. As a result, the second end also became free.

Then I pushed the cable through the stop (brown bushing) in the bracket. The black knob easily passed through it and came out.

Then I took out the black bushing from the partition where the cable goes into the interior. She sat tight. I turned it around and did without a screwdriver.

The cable passes through the partition through these two bushings. One is rubber, the other is hard plastic.

Last action: through the hole formed, I pulled the cable out of the passenger compartment into the engine compartment.

I'm installing a new one

First, I pushed the cable into the interior and put the boss on the pedal.

The second end was inserted through a hole with a stop in the bracket. He clicked the lever. This is where the installation itself ended.

To configure or not

This is done with a steel U-shaped clothespin on a corrugated tube. So that there is no sagging and strong tension in the cable, and the damper is closed at idle. The only thing I did was replace the bracket with the original one. So she was fatter. I counted how many vests there were on the old corrugation and put them on at the same distance on the new one.

Started it up, revved it up, everything was great. Except that the pedal has risen a little, maybe 10mm. I went for a ride right away. The pedal has become smoother. The plugs are gone.

What else could have been done was to lubricate the cable with the transmission. But since I worked in the field, I skipped this step. I put it on dry.

What came from the factory

I read the markings on the shirt of the original cable. She is like this: 182013208R.

Differences between the original and the Romanian analogue

The length of both cables is visually the same. I didn’t measure it exactly;
The Asam cable seemed a little thicker in diameter;
Asam has a thinner retaining bracket. I removed it and installed my original one;
The price of the Romanian is five times less than the original.

Price for work in a car service

Replacing the cable at a Logan service center costs 470 rubles. This amount was announced to me for November 2022 in Yaroslavl.

What has changed since the renovation?

The smoothness of the pedal has returned. Larik stopped jerking at low speeds when driving in traffic jams. At high speed, if you suddenly release the gas pedal, the car stops nodding. Subjectively it became better. But the pedal level has risen. Now she is about a centimeter taller. The toe has to be pulled up more, but this is not critical. I'll try to regulate it.

Modification or adjustment of the electronic gas pedal (E-gas) on LADA

Disconnect the block with wires next to the gas pedal;
Unscrew three nuts using a 10mm wrench;
Remove the housing and pedal assembly.

The manufacturer installs at least two types of electronic gas pedals on Lada cars (depending on the year of manufacture):

Old model (catalog number: 11183-1108500);
New sample (article: 11183-1108500-01).

Each block is modified differently. Attention!

You do all further actions at your own peril and risk. In addition, you may lose your warranty.

ADJUSTING OLD-TYPE E-GAS

The block cover (11183-1108500) is fixed with bolts that are inserted into oval holes. The improvement is this. to loosen the 4 screws and turn the cover in the desired direction:

Economy mode (counterclockwise). To drive smoothly, to accelerate, you should press the pedal a little more than before. Gasoline consumption is reduced;
Active mode (clockwise). The car reacts even with slight pressure on the gas pedal. Gasoline consumption increases. The pedal becomes more sensitive and informative.

In other words, we get the same effect as after installing JETTER (Jetter or spur).

If necessary, you can easily return to the original position (mark it in advance).

Cleaning process

Removing and cleaning the throttle valve on Renault Logan and other models where the K4M engine is installed, for example, Largus or Duster, is done at a service station. But you can do this yourself, since this operation does not require special knowledge or tools.

The reason that the speed of a cold engine fluctuates is the depressurization of the seal connecting the throttle and the intake manifold. To check this, you need to unscrew 4 bolts. Remove the throttle cable and connector from the idle air control, which will require a socket wrench. After this, the intake receiver is removed, for which you will need an E8 head; you can use a 6 head, which removes two bolts.

The crankcase ventilation pipe is disconnected from the idle air control valve. The receiver is pulled off the throttle towards the engine shield. The Renault Logan 1.6 16 valve throttle body is removed after unscrewing the two bolts that are located under it, which will require a 8mm socket.

DEVELOPMENT OF A NEW ELECTRONIC GAS PEDAL

What I don’t like about the pedal assembly (8450008980), which is installed on Lada Vesta:

tight gas pedal;
large free play of the gas pedal (about 8 mm at the tip of the pedal).

What was decided to do:

remove one of the return springs to make the pedal softer;
Place a spacer to reduce the free play of the pedal.

How to measure pedal free play:

Let's start the engine.
Place a ruler at the tip of the pedal.
Smoothly press the pedal until the engine begins to gain speed.
We remember the distance on the ruler.

We remove and disassemble the electronic gas pedal:

Disconnect the connector (by pressing the inside of the upper part of the latch)
Unscrew three nuts (head “10”).
Remove the top cover by unscrewing the fastening screws.
Remove the rheostat slider by unscrewing the screw.

Remove the spring (holding them with a screwdriver from the outside).

Why does the car start only with the gas pedal?

There are two main reasons for starting an engine with gas assist - a malfunction in the ignition system and errors in the actions of the driver. Let's look at them in more detail.

Ignition system problems

The ignition does not work without the gas pedal in a number of situations:

The car froze in the cold. Including a fuel pump that does not supply fuel to the combustion chamber when starting the engine, and only the gas pedal is able to create the required pressure in the fuel supply system.
No spark due to dead battery. In this case, the combustible mixture is created by the fuel pump, but does not ignite, and the engine does not turn over.
The ignition itself or the idle speed control is faulty.
There are malfunctions in the fuel system (fuel pump failure, clogged filters).
The mass air flow sensor is malfunctioning, causing insufficient air to enter the combustion chamber and the mixture does not ignite.

Driver errors

In cars with a manual transmission, the engine is started with the clutch pedal depressed, which should be smoothly released when the engine picks up speed. A sudden release of the pedal stops the engine, as does a quick release of the clutch by the gas pedal.
In cars with robotic gearboxes (automatic transmission), switching the selector when starting the engine is not necessary.
You should always wait a short pause after turning the key in the ignition to allow the fuel pump to create the required fuel pressure in the system. When you hear the pump hum stop, depress the ignition pedal.
If your car has a weak battery and you try to start the car in severe frost, the engine may not start because the engine oil has thickened.
The air temperature in the system is an important parameter. Monitor the air temperature sensor - it should not show overheating or hypothermia.

In conclusion, it should be noted that if the car engine starts only with the support of the gas pedal, this does not always indicate a malfunction in the fuel supply or ignition systems. Most often, the engine needs a boost in extreme cold, when the battery is dead or the sensors are not adjusted.
If after warming up the engine, installing a new battery and adjusting the sensors, the problem does not go away, it means you are either making mistakes during ignition (untimely pressing of the pedals, haste, etc.), or you really should diagnose the fuel system and ignition components.
In a serviceable engine, throttling is safe only at low engine speeds. In winter, this is dangerous and can flood the spark plugs, overheat the engine and damage the car's exhaust system. If the simplest steps do not solve the problem, it is better to contact a service station.

Author:

Kiselev Ya.L.

FEEDBACK ABOUT E-GAS DEVELOPMENT

Have you encountered such modification of E-gas?

Design and principle of operation

The principle of operation of the electronic gas pedal is not very complicated in theory. Essentially, this device works on the principle of a rheostat that monitors the position of the lever. Inside there are track contacts that duplicate each other for greater reliability. Depending on the position of the lever, data is transmitted to the electronic control unit - ECU, which controls the position of the carburetor damper, opening or closing it. This is done by a small electric motor with a gearbox. Of course, the design of an electronic gas pedal is much more complex than such a simple circuit. It includes many sensors and control mechanisms. They control the fuel supply even when the pedal is in one position, adapting to the slightest change in the vehicle's speed and environmental conditions. Today, there are no problems starting the engine in any season and maintaining its optimal operation, since almost all modern cars have an electronic gas pedal. Thanks to this simple device, the life of car enthusiasts has become much easier.

Let's improve the characteristics of Lada Largus 105 hp.

Is it frustrating that your car hesitates when you press the gas pedal? Not enough engine? Overclocking is frustrating? Is there something holding the car by the rear? Does the car jerk when changing gears? Not enough driving comfort? Do you want to spend less?

There is an effective solution for you. This solution is not for racing! It is for those who want to feel confident behind the wheel and enjoy driving.

The car moves due to engine speed and torque. We make it so that the torque increases traction at low speeds . Due to this, for example, acceleration dynamics increase , thoughtfulness disappears , or the effect when the engine roars but the car does not move. All the advantages are below.

Lada Largus 1.6l 16 valves with 105 hp The engine is Renault k4m . The same engine is installed on some Renault Sandero , Nissan Almera G 15 . The first Renault Duster 1.6L manual transmission came with the same engine.

If, with the help of chip tuning, you are thinking of removing the failures and thoughtfulness of the Lada Largus 1.6 liter with a Renault k4m 105 hp engine, then do not entertain yourself with illusions. Chip tuning will not give you the expected result. All you get is a minor improvement. But failures and thoughtfulness will not go away. They will become a little smaller. And the word “a little bit” is literal.

Lada largus club – Lada Largus forum

Largus cross motor VAZ 21129, chipped on Euro 4, dips disappeared when pressing the gas pedal, traction has improved, especially with A/C, recently for an experiment I started filling up with 100 gasoline at Gazprom, and so the car began to drive very well, and most importantly at 120 at the fifth traction is there and the sound of the engine has become quieter, the clanging under load has disappeared, even my relative noticed this. Consumption 7.6 I drive actively. Conclusion: the 100th petrol is good, but damn it costs 51.4 ((After 15 thousand km of mileage I will switch to Euro 2 and 95 petrol.

Lada Largus and our technology

Lada Largus is a roomy, comfortable, reliable car. But with weak lows and lacking power.

Not a single chip tuner for Lada Largus can guarantee the result that our mechanical modification gives.

Our technology has proven itself well on the Lada Largus with the Renault k4m . With this choke the result is guaranteed. In addition to the acceleration dynamics of the Lada Largus, consumption is reduced to 1.5 l/100 km. Here the result depends on the driving style and the condition of the car.

The same results can be obtained on a Lada Largus with a VAZ engine of 87 hp.

The result of the work is expressed as follows:

less consumption for the same mileage
the car is more powerful at low revs
Dips disappear when accelerating
the thoughtfulness of the gas pedal goes away
the car follows the gas pedal
the car's character changes
maneuverability appears
manage to overtake
starts, overtaking, climbs become easy
get confident acceleration and overtaking
air conditioning does not affect speed
the engine is quieter and more flexible
great driving experience

A short video about the results using the example of a Lada Largus 1.6l with a Renault k4m :

How to fix overclocking failures

Check the ignition wires and coils. When a breakdown occurs, the spark plug wires spark and glow in the dark. The engine shakes and jerks. This happens due to age, poor quality parts or poor contact with the spark plugs. The malfunction may be related to the engine temperature. The interwinding resistance of the coils and the thermal operating conditions change together, which is why a gasoline car jerks during acceleration. If you have a diesel engine, jerks during acceleration are definitely not related to the operation of the coils, they are not there.
Inspect the spark plugs. Poor contact with the wires, heavy carbon deposits, too lean or rich fuel mixture disable them. Unscrew and check each spark plug as in our article “Diagnostics of internal combustion engine operation using spark plugs,” where we gave examples of faulty spark plugs.
Check the fuel, oil and air filters. Over time, they become clogged, which leads to deterioration in dynamics, increased fuel consumption and periodic failures. You can replace them yourself; they are inexpensive and easy to install.

If the tips above did not help, only diagnostics will solve the reason for this behavior of the gas pedal. Incorrect operation of systems, errors, composition of the fuel mixture - the diagnostician will name a specific malfunction.

Even if the engine is working properly, the car may move jerkily when accelerating. Motors that meet environmental standards Euro-4 and higher have this unpleasant property. The point is the reaction of the electronic throttle to pressing the gas pedal. It is nonlinear for the first 3–4 centimeters of travel. Because of this, failure may occur during overclocking.

New Lada: Interior and comfort. Accessories for LADA Largus station wagon CNG – Official LADA website

Chip tuning to Euro-2 or Euro-0 standards improves the response of the gas pedal and solves the problem. ECU firmware has a number of other advantages:

Improves overall dynamics, idle performance and traction at low speeds;
The car does not stall when the air conditioning is on;
Gear shifts smoother;
Fuel consumption is reduced while maintaining driving style.

Video from our partner on how chip tuning copes with failures and “brooding” of the accelerator pedal on Gazelle Next:

Contact ADACT partners in your city for chip tuning. We guarantee a 10-day test drive, money back and replacement if you don't like the firmware.

Where to do chip tuning

We recommend watching

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What is the technology

To increase power and reduce fuel consumption, using technology and license from Gadgetman Technologies, grooves of special geometry are mechanically made near the throttle valve, which changes the physics of air flow.
The car's throttle is precisely the component that prevents you from truly knowing how your car can actually drive! What is the throttle in a car? What is the throttle in a car?

In Russia, this technology is called MD-tuning. In the future “ Pro MD tuning ”. Pro MD tuning is professional tuning or modification of the car throttle. MD comes from the words modernization D Rossel .

Changes in air characteristics cannot in any way negatively affect the engine . But it perfectly increases engine power at low and medium speeds and reduces fuel consumption. And all this without interfering with the engine and electronics (ECU).

This technology allows for better mixing of gasoline and air vapors. Chip tuning cannot do this !

Drops of gasoline do not burn, but are thrown into the exhaust pipe. This is somewhere around 25-30% according to science. And this is 250-300 rubles. from every thousand spent on gasoline. Special grooves in the throttle valve create differences in air pressure and drops of gasoline turn into vapor. As a result, the fuel burns more completely. Therefore, our improvements pay for themselves

* Refinement of the throttle does not require additional intervention in the vehicle's ECU. The service is provided on the basis of a license agreement using special equipment.

When fuel combustion improves, the car's power and traction at low speeds increases. Because more energy goes into work and torque in the range of 1000-3000 rpm.

What gives power at low speeds?

Movement and traction on Renault Duster starts at 1000 rpm.
The start becomes easy, acceleration is fast.
The car's character becomes more lively and energetic.
The car “follows” the gas pedal without straining.
You hardly press the gas pedal.
Confident control over the car and over the road.
The car doesn't think about going or not going, and it doesn't annoy you about it.
When you need to overtake, you overtake, and do not lose this opportunity for the reason that the car was “thinking”. A missed opportunity can become not only a loss of time, maneuvering and overtaking, but also a mortal danger with oncoming traffic.
You control your car, not it you!
This is what you have always been missing!
This is what makes driving fun!

Sometimes clients’ emotions are like this (the first sensations and emotions on a Mitsubishi Galant after our service on video):

Your browser does not support video. Please use another browser.

Why does the valve get clogged?

The performance of the throttle valve depends on a large number of factors. The car owner is required to regularly change filters and oil, and use high-quality fuel. Among the reasons that lead to throttle clogging in K4M engines are:

Poor quality fuel that forms carbon deposits, including when additives are not added correctly.
Untimely replacement of the air filter.
Failure of fuel, oil and air filters.
Drops of oil from the engine entering the air duct.

It is especially unpleasant when several negative factors are combined, for example, oil from the engine and dust from the air. In this case, a coating forms that prevents the throttle valve from working normally, the seals fail, as a result of which it will need to be cleaned and the sealing rings replaced.

Video: The revs of Lagrus, Duster, Logan, etc. are floating. Solution. Cleaning the throttle.

Where do the savings come from?

A four-cylinder engine makes four strokes in one full cycle. On the first stroke, fuel is always supplied. A modified throttle makes the fuel mixture better. Due to which it burns better. Because of this, the engine torque increases. And the car becomes more dynamic at low speeds. After a short dynamic acceleration, switch to a higher gear. Due to this, the speed is reduced. And the number of first measures decreases. That is, less fuel is supplied. On some cars, the ECU also reduces the amount of fuel supplied.

Causes of overclocking failure

You can determine the reason why the car jerks using diagnostics. Possible problems:

Malfunction of the fuel supply system;
Damage to engine temperature and mixture enrichment sensors;
Errors in the ECU;
Faulty spark plugs;
Damage to high-voltage wires or ignition coils;
Clogged or faulty injectors:

On HBO, the problem may arise due to:

Faulty HBO control unit;
There is interference in the harness to which the fuel injectors are connected;
Gas wiring;
Bad mass.