How to remove the center console and radio on a Lada Kalina 2 » Lada.Online - all the most interesting and useful about LADA cars

Denoising
the center console and (Beard treatment).
First you need to remove your beard, read how to do it. After we have removed the beard, we take it to the operating table, moving the air flow direction control to the middle position, shake the entire beard and enjoy the strumming, creaking sounds. To avoid getting hurt or tearing off the torpedo, we cover the mustache with madeline and fill it with hot glue.

There are three most important sources of unpleasant sound in a beard:

1. Nozzle deflectors. 2. Plastic rod for air direction damper. 3. Plexiglas with a sticker showing the temperature, air direction, and heater fan speed.

Unscrew the four white screws with washers and remove the nozzle. After this, the nozzle will be in your hands, access to the deflectors is open. Using a flat screwdriver, pry the deflector from the conical side and remove it.

Let me warn you right away, you won’t be able to remove the deflectors without removing the air duct.

On one deflector, I discovered that two hook-shaped whiskers holding the axes of the partitions were broken; they dangled freely and made an itchy sound when vibrating. The second deflector turned out to be normal and behaved quietly.

After an unsuccessful attempt to repair the hooks, at a car plastic store, I bought a new nozzle assembly for 283 rubles; I did not find deflectors for sale separately. (in developing). who treated them, send photos and text.

If you pull both deflectors out of the central nozzle and hold the regulator in the middle position with your fingers and shake it thoroughly, you can hear a dull rumbling sound, the sources of which are the damper itself and its thrust.

The damper has horizontal axial play, which can be eliminated by placing washers made of soft elastic material on the axles. I put the silicone pad of the CD-ROM laser carriage cut in half.

Also, cut rings from a white hose from vacuum ignition timing (distributor - carber) are excellent.

Next, to get to the draft, you need to disassemble the air duct itself. Unscrew the 5 screws marked with arrows.

After disassembly, we see that the rod dangles freely and, accordingly, rattles from vibrations.

In order to calm the craving, you need to stick four layers (chosen according to the circumstances) of the same madeline under it, and do the same with your other half to make a kind of sandwich.

Having installed everything in place, we assemble the air duct nozzle and check that the breakpoints should disappear.

Plexiglass with a sticker makes a cracking sound. The reason is that the radio in the mounting sleeve dangles up and down when driving on uneven roads. The plastic of the beard is deformed and thereby causes the plexiglass to rub against the plastic. We dismantle the black oval cover with plexiglass by unscrewing 4 black screws, then unscrewing 4 white screws and pull out the plexiglass itself from the cover. To get rid of cracking, you need to glue its ends with thin strips of madeline at the points of contact.

Then, we install the plexiglass in its place in the black trim; the madeline should not stick out from the front side.

Then glue the edge of the beard seat with a thin strip of madeline. Madeline should not be visible from the front side.

After gluing, we install it in its place, I immediately replaced the black screws with galvanized ones, because the original ones turned out to be a little short and did not allow the madeleine to be properly tightened.

The source of the crackling sound is the rubbing of the handles against the ends of the sticker glued to the plexiglass. This is how it is checked. We take the handle, insert it into its place and rub it against the ends of the sticker with a back-and-forth motion and hear an unpleasant sound. You can correct the situation in this simple way. You just need to bend the ends of the sticker inward.

Removing the instrument panel assembly with heater

Using a high 10mm head, unscrew the nut securing the heater to the front panel.
We take out the cabin filter (see “Replacing the filter element of the ventilation and heating system”). Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four self-tapping screws securing the filter housing. We unscrew the nuts securing the steering column and lower the column to the floor (see “Removing the electric power steering column”). Disconnect the wire ends from the brake light switch (see “Removing the brake light switch”). Remove the floor tunnel lining (see “Removing the floor tunnel lining”).

We disconnect the seven wiring harness blocks behind the relay and fuse box.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the bolts securing the console brackets to the floor tunnel on both sides.

Without removing the windshield

In this case, the windshield protective cover and cabin filter remain in place. Roughly speaking, there are fewer preparatory operations. But the algorithm for the main stage of work is radically different from the traditional one. It looks like this:

1. Disconnect the accelerator pedal cable.
2. We remove the pedal.
3. We are dismantling the sensor for turning on the rear parking lights.
4. We disconnect the brake pedal from its drive by disabling the clamp and the metal pin.
5. Remove the steering column.
6. Remove the trim on the left side of the dashboard.

Let's sum it up

In addition to the irresistible desire of LADA Kalina owners to defeat the “crickets” in the panel, there is another reason for removing the structure, this also applies to the removal of the torpedo. This is a noble goal of tuning, especially since now many people know how to disassemble the instrument panel.

The domestic manufacturer has deprived the LADA Kalina of a chic design and quality of panel material with a variety of lights and electronic gadgets. The diehard owners did not give up here either, and boldly installed fashionable instrument panels with a neon glow into the standard design, repainted individual components, installed lighting (including for the feet), and also performed a great variety of modern “tricks.” The main thing is to achieve a good fit of the parts and the panel will thank the owner with a soothing silence.

Operation algorithm

Started:

The front door seal will need to be bent and pulled towards you very carefully; The decorated plastic casing must be removed from the front roof pillar. This is easy to do - just remove the 3 clips that secure the trim; Now you will need to find two screws securing the air vent grilles, as well as the trim in front of the glass. The screws are on both sides, and to unscrew them you will need a shaped screwdriver (preferably with a short handle); Unscrew them and take out the ashtray; After that, putting your hand under the ashtray, pry up the two side plugs with a screwdriver. They are located on both sides of the emergency system key; This is done due to the fact that under the plugs there are two screws that are responsible for fixing the “beard” from below. We pull the lower part towards ourselves, but very carefully. You will also need to disconnect all the chips, not forgetting where they were; We also remove the casing on the steering wheel and dashboard. The latter is held in place by 2 black self-tapping screws; We also unscrew the panel from above, using a 10-mm head. Here the panel is secured with 7 or 9 screws, depending on the specific car; At the windshield, the heater air duct sits on lock washers. It is better not to remove them, as the plastic rods will simply come off. For this reason, we tear them ourselves, and instead of them we install self-tapping screws during assembly; The steering wheel doesn’t need to be removed at all, although the panel comes out with some effort. But in order to reduce time, you can take such an adventure; The time has come to completely remove the torpedo, but we’re not in a hurry yet. We carefully check all areas where the screws holding the panel could remain and unscrew them. We pay special attention to the side parts and niches; Carefully pull out the torpedo. It will come off easily if there is nothing holding it.

Let us note right away that it is easier to remove the panel through the passenger door. As for the method of draining the coolant and removing the stove, everything is done almost the same, except with some nuances.

After soundproofing has been completed, we install the panel in place. Don't forget to first pass the block with wires for the switch. We also insert the glove box light in advance using the appropriate holes.

Thus, the operation can be considered completed. Having learned how to remove a torpedo on Kalina, you can safely take on this work, even without the help of an assistant. On the other hand, an extra pair of hands certainly won't hurt.

Selection of spare parts

The choice of a stove radiator should be approached carefully, since changing it is quite inconvenient. The majority of motorists choose an original part that is available for sale. But few people know that there are several analogues.

Let's consider the heater radiator options for Kalina, their catalog numbers:

• 1118-8101060 – this is the article number of the original catalog number of the heater radiator for Kalina. It fits perfectly and does not require any modifications. The average cost in the Russian Federation is 1500-1700 rubles.

  
  Original heater radiator and hoses

• There are several analogues that are in no way inferior to the original in terms of quality. Thus, spare parts from the following manufacturers are suitable for Kalina: Pekar (1118-8101060), Fenox (RO0001O7), Luzar (LRH 0118) . The average cost of an analogue is 1200-1500 rubles.

Kraft stove radiator

Reasons for failure

There are not many reasons for the failure of a stove radiator, but you need to know them. Let's consider the main ones:

1. Radiator clogged , which led to pressure, resulting in a breakdown of the internal tube.
   Antifreeze flows into the cabin due to a breakdown in the heater radiator
2. An air lock can also cause a radiator leak.
3. Wear . Frequent use of the stove leads to wear on the inner walls of the tubes.

Perhaps these are the main reasons, but others may arise due to the operation of the car.

Removing the console

Now we need to start sequentially disassembling the panel in Kalina into parts. How to disassemble the panel?

1. Remove the ashtray: pull it towards you as far as it will go and unscrew the 4 screws that secure it.
2. After this you can get to two plugs. They are located on the sides of the emergency lights. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry it off and set it aside.
3. We unscrew the screws that are located under the plugs. These fasteners from below hold the console.
4. After the two screws are removed, pull the console (shield) towards you, but slowly so as not to break the wiring. We disconnect the wiring, first marking the wires so as not to confuse which is which later.
5. Now unscrew the steering wheel cover. It is held in place by 2 bolts, for which a 10mm wrench is useful, and 5 self-tapping screws.
6. Next, disconnect the instrument panel cover. There are only 2 screws here.
7. The top panel is secured with nuts. There must be at least 7 of them.
8. As you can see, the stove air duct is tightly fixed. What to do? You will have to rip off 2 lock washers and unscrew the remaining screws, which, in fact, secure the panel in place. Only self-tapping screws are enough for fastening.
9. Next, you can try removing the steering wheel. If it doesn’t work out, you’ll have to work a little harder and find the remaining fasteners. In any case, we look for all the hidden screws and unscrew them to the last.
10. Pull the panel towards you. If it gives in, it means everything is unscrewed. If somewhere she doesn’t want to move away, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver and unscrew the hidden fasteners.
11. After this you can disconnect it.

That's all the instructions on how to remove the instrument panel in the Lada Kalina.

Tuning the instrument panel is one of the main reasons why a torpedo and its adjacent parts are disassembled. Lada Kalina is not distinguished by its bright design and interesting design. What can you do about it? Install panel lighting.

This solution will help improve the visibility of indicators. In addition, the perception of the interior will change. You can also change the panel to another one or repaint its parts. Such tuning of the instrument panel is a radical measure, but absolutely justified. The plastic the panel is made of is simply terrible.

Removing the rear door trim

The rear door structures are secured with 10 plastic holders and 2 screws. The first fasteners hold the door panel, and the second fasteners hold the handles. Disassembly technique:

1. The handle of the mechanical window lifter is being removed. It is important to note that this element is held in place by a plastic half ring. It is carefully pryed up with an awl.
2. The plugs on the door handle are removed, then the fasteners are unscrewed.
3. The lower far corner of the panel is pulled back, and then the first piston is removed.
4. Hold the door card with your hand and remove the remaining clips.
5. The covering is changing.

There are differences between Kalina 1st and 2nd generation. In the first case, the opening handle lever is unscrewed, but in the second option this is not required, since it is screwed directly to the door.

Once the music system is removed, you can begin the main part of the repair. You need to remove the door trim on Kalina in the passenger seat in a certain sequence:

1. The decorative panel is removed. To do this, unscrew 8 clips and 2 screws. The inner handle is held on by two self-tapping screws.
2. An awl is used to pry up the edge of the plug for removal. There are two of them, so you need to remove both.
3. The opening mechanism is pulled back to remove the securing screw. After this, two screws are unscrewed from the inside of the handle. They are located opposite the cavity of the plastic pocket.
4. One edge of the panel is pryed off; you can use a screwdriver to do this. When it becomes possible to grab the edge, all that remains is to pull the element towards you.
5. The wires from the electric window lifter are disconnected, the block is removed.

How to remove a torpedo on a Lada Kalina

Owners of a Lada Kalina car sometimes think about how to remove the dashboard in order to remove unnecessary noise or replace the heater radiator. Today I want to show you detailed photographs of the process of removing the panel with my own hands.

I would like to immediately clarify that I will remove the torpedo without draining the antifreeze (without removing the stove).

How to remove a torpedo on a Lada Kalina with your own hands:

1. Bend the front door seal. We pull carefully.

2. Remove the decor (plastic casing) from the front roof pillar. It is held on by 3 clips. In the photo I have already pasted over the lid.

3. Here are the actual mounting points.

4. Find two self-tapping screws that secure the trim in front of the glass and the air duct grilles, and unscrew them on the right and left sides. Attention!

You will need a Phillips screwdriver with a short handle.

5. Then you can remove the black plastic trim in front of the glass. We carefully pull it towards us. This front cover is attached to these iron clips.

Attention!

When I removed these clips, almost all of them went under the panel. Some were found, the rest were either behind the panel or not all of them were installed at the factory.

6. Now you can remove the side nozzles on the air ducts. There you need to interestingly unscrew the screws. Those who understand it will understand.

7. Now we remove the “beard”.

8. Open the ashtray, unscrew the four screws, and take out the ashtray. Now we pry two side plugs from under the ashtray, which are on opposite sides of the emergency light button.

Main causes of malfunctions

So, what should we do if heat does not flow inside our car and cold air blows. Let's consider the main causes of such malfunctions:

1. Failure of the Kalina heater switching control cable. The reason for such a malfunction may be that the latch has fallen off, and the cable stretches normally in one direction, but does not reach the opposite direction.
2. On Kalina, the stove only works at speed 4. Associated with a broken thermistor.
3. On a Kalina car, the heater switch often breaks when turned on abruptly, which is due to insufficiently strong plastic.

Faulty heater resistor of the Lada Kalina car

Here is a list of the main breakdowns that may occur. Next, we move directly to the repair itself and replacement of failed parts.

Removing the car dashboard

The torpedo mounts are hidden here.

If you are tormented by squeaks while driving and you are thinking about how to disassemble the front panel of a Lada Kalina car, the following instructions will be useful to you.

To dismantle the torpedo you will need the following tools:

• Phillips screwdriver with short handle;
• slotted (minus) screwdriver with a short handle;
• tubular wrench 10;
• marker.

In addition, you will need a bit of patience and accuracy when performing the work.

Algorithm of actions when disassembling and removing a torpedo.

1. First you need to bend the rubber seals of the front doors from the A-pillars.
2. After this, you need to remove the plastic covers of the front pillars. Each of them is held on by 3 clips. Use a slotted screwdriver as leverage.
3. Next, you need to unscrew the screws securing the upper front (in the direction of travel) panel trim. There are 2 of them: one on the right, the other on the left, both are located near the racks.
4. After this, you need to remove the upper front trim by carefully pulling it towards you. It is secured not only with self-tapping screws, but also with clips at the front. When removing the panel, try not to lose them.
5. Then you need to unscrew all the screws and remove the trim on the side air ducts.

Disassembled torpedo

Now you can begin dismantling the center console.

1. First you need to remove the ashtray. To do this, just pull it all the way back (in the direction of travel of the car) and unscrew the 4 screws that secure it to the console.
2. Then you need to pry with a screwdriver and pull out the plugs located to the right and left of the alarm button.
3. After this, you need to unscrew the 2 screws located under the plugs and securing the center console from below.
4. Now you should carefully pull the console towards you and disconnect all the wiring from it, having previously marked with a marker what is attached where. If you don't have a marker, you can take a picture with your phone of which wires go where.
5. After dismantling the center console, you need to unscrew 2 bolts and 5 screws and remove the steering column cover.
6. Then you need to unscrew 2 screws and remove the outer trim of the instrument cluster.
7. Next, you need to unscrew all the instrument panel mounting nuts from above using a 10 mm wrench.
8. After this, you need to tear off the lock washers on which the heater air duct is seated, unscrew the remaining screws securing the dashboard, and remove it by pulling it towards you.

During installation, you need to attach the torpedo to the air duct with self-tapping screws.

Return to contents

Disassembling the panel

To dismantle the instrument panel in Kalina, you should arm yourself with a set of high-quality screwdrivers and patience. To work you will need:

• crosshead screwdriver;
• slotted screwdriver;
• 10mm wrench with round head;
• marker or tape to indicate disconnected wires.

Disassembly begins from the sides. How to remove a torpedo? The sequence is:

1. The first step is to disconnect the rubber seal that prevents the panel from being removed. Using a flat-head screwdriver, bend it to make room for dismantling.
2. Next you need to remove the plastic casing with three clips. It is located on the front pillar of the cover. Again, a flat-head screwdriver will come in handy, which can be used to pry off the socket.
3. The next step is to detach the trims in front of the glass. You can unscrew them using a Phillips screwdriver by unscrewing the fasteners on both sides.
4. After this you will be able to remove the black trim under the glass. It is secured with iron clips and screws, so there is no need to rush. Slowly pull towards you until it comes loose. It may happen that the clips get stuck under the panel or some of them will be missing altogether.
5. We unscrew all the screws that are nearby and remove the covers from the side air ducts.

After removing all the side and side elements, you can begin to dismantle the central part.

Console Kalina2 2DIN (2 parts)

Console Kalina 2 with box, for tape recorder 2 DIN (2 parts) for VAZ 2194 2192 cars

Attention! Adapter frame for 1DIN is not included

for tape recorder 2 DIN (2 parts) weight: 0.83 kg. dimensions:28x28x14 cm

Payment to Sberbank VISA card

The most convenient and profitable payment method for you. Payment can be made through the Sberbank Online system, through a payment terminal (Sberbank ATM), provided that you have a card from this bank. If you are not a client of this bank and you do not have a card, then you can top up your balance at any bank branch through an operator; they will accept cash payment and top up your balance. Commission from 0 to 1%

How to remove the center console on Kalina 2

Today AvtoVAZ offers to purchase Lada Kalina 2 cars with two interior trim options. The first is used in luxury trim levels (where a media center is installed), the second is an integral part of the “Norma” and “Standard” trim levels. We will talk about what methods exist for dismantling the climate control module panel and the radio panel. Moreover, one of the considered options is suitable for the “Lux” configuration, the other – for more affordable versions (Norma, Standard). The dismantling methods in the two indicated cases are noticeably different.

Let us remind you that quite recently we were considering which armrest to choose for the Lada Kalina 2. Now there is a very wide range on the auto market.

How to remove the center console in the Luxury package

Let's say it was decided to dismantle the panels located on the center console. You can see that there are two of them. One is the front panel of the air conditioner, the second protects the radio and contains air duct grilles in its design. These two parts are not connected to each other. However, it will not be possible to remove the radio panel unless you first remove the climate control panel. Below it are metric screws (A, B) that secure the media center shield from below.

The question arises, why are we even talking about how to dismantle the center console, since after this the car can be removed from warranty? Usually the shield is removed to install additional equipment. But connecting any equipment, the use of which has not been agreed upon with the dealer, will void the vehicle warranty. If you haven't changed your mind yet, continue reading.

The climate control shield is held in place by 4 clips, which are located on the bottom and top sides of the part closer to the corners. Having disconnected even two clips (1, 2 or 3, 4), you can try to pull the panel towards you to dismantle it. But if you have no experience working with such a mount, it is better not to try - you may scratch the outer surface of the shield. In fact, all you need to do is use a flathead screwdriver (some people use a thin-bladed knife and a screwdriver).

To dismantle the climate control panel, you do not need to first remove the control knobs located on it, if we are talking about the “Lux” package. The same applies to the “Norma with climate control” package. In all other versions, a stove control unit is used, the design of which does not allow removing the shield without first dismantling the handles. Be careful.

How to trim a beard on viburnum?

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the most important things on the topic: “how to take apart a beard on a viburnum?” with full description and recommendations.

In order to remove the center console (the black trim on the instrument panel) of the Lada Kalina, we will need a Phillips screwdriver and a lot of patience, especially when installing it later, so we will have to be patient.

• The first step is to remove the cassette player, if you have one installed, and disconnect the wires connected to it.

• It is also better to remove the metal insert in which the radio is mounted to make removal easier. After it has been removed, we press on the back side of the plugs, which are located on both sides of the “Hazard Alarm” button.

• And unscrew the two bolts securing the lower part of this lining, which are located under these plugs with a Phillips screwdriver:

• Then you need to remove the three heater adjustment levers, which are marked below in the photo with numbers 1, 2,3. They are easy to remove; just pull them with a little effort.

• Now, disconnect the plug from the hazard warning button:

• After this, you need to slightly pull the lining towards you, starting from the very bottom, overcoming the obstacle of the metal clamps, and pull the lining out of its seat.

• To remove it completely, you need to disconnect all the wires that lead to the lighting bulbs and fan speed control:

After this, it can be easily removed without any problems. But you will have to tinker with the installation of this overlay, well, at least I tinkered for probably 20 minutes until I got everything in place.

You will need : Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.

Remove the handbrake cover by unscrewing the three screws (No. 2) securing the protective handbrake cover (No. 1) using a Phillips screwdriver.

Remove the gear lever handle.

For Lada Kalina 2 with automatic transmission: disconnect the cover (No. 4), unscrew the screw (No. 3) securing the gear lever handle, disconnect the block (No. 1) and remove the handle with the cover (No. 2) using a flat-head and Phillips screwdriver.

Unscrew the screw (No. 1) securing the floor tunnel lining using a Phillips screwdriver.

Remove the floor tunnel lining by removing two screws (No. 1) from the right and left sides using a Phillips screwdriver.

By the way, do you know that on the floor tunnel of Lada Kalina 2 you can

install the armrest

.

Similar materials

• How to remove the seat on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• How to remove the ceiling on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• How to remove the panel on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• How to remove the door trim Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• How to remove the center console and radio of Lada Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• How to remove the bumper on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• How to remove the glove compartment on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• Differences between Lada Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194) and Kalina (VAZ 1117, 1118 and 1119)
• Multifunction steering wheel for Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)
• Car blanket for Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)

Rating of 5 voters: 7

Brief description of the control unit

1. Temperature regulator.
2. Switch for fan operation in several modes.
3. Air flow distribution selector.
4. The handle that controls the recirculation of cabin air.
5. Rear window heating mode switch.

What kind of breakdowns happen?

The regulator (1) does not switch from hot to cold mode and back. The plastic rod has broken or fallen off and should be replaced or replaced. A similar situation occurs with the air flow direction selector (3).

The handle (1) rotates freely with a quiet crackling sound; temperature regulation does not occur. The problem is solved by replacing the block of control knobs. The air supply to the cabin is controlled by an auto switch (2), which has 4 operating modes for the electric fan. The fan speed increases by turning the knob to the right. Doesn't break often. The assembled unit is inexpensive, so we recommend replacing it if serious problems arise.

How to remove the dashboard and instrument cluster on a VAZ 1117-1119 Kalina car

VAZ 1117 "Kalina" is one of the most popular cars from the domestic manufacturer - AvtoVAZ. In principle, there is nothing surprising in the popularity of the Kalina, because this particular model has become a kind of symbol of the new vector of development of the Russian automobile industry.

But today we will leave aside the production directions of AvtoVAZ and the popularity of the Lada Kalina. Let's talk about the process of removing the instrument cluster from this car, as well as the dashboard (dashboard). As for the need to carry out such measures, everything is simple: firstly, dismantling may be necessary to repair certain faults, and secondly, to modernize standard parts, that is, for tuning. By the way, you can read about tuning the VAZ2117 dashboard here.

Removing the instrument cluster Lada Kalina

Work on removing the instrument panel is carried out in the following sequence:

1. In the engine compartment of the car, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Instructions for replacing the stove

Before removing all the necessary parts, cables and other components from Kalina, prepare a new radiator, pipes and clamps. The pipes will be required in case the old ones are worn out or they have never been changed over the years of operation. As practice shows, hoses are most susceptible to wear due to temperature changes, so in any case they need to be changed from time to time.

Instructions on how to change the radiator are presented below:

1. We begin the replacement procedure in the engine compartment. First, place a container under the drain hole and drain all consumables from the radiator. If you notice that the coolant is already old and has exhausted its service life, which can be understood by its color and deposits, then it is also better to change the antifreeze.
2. You need to ensure the most convenient access to all pipes and hoses of the radiator assembly in the engine compartment. To do this, dismantle the power unit air filter housing, the battery, and its platform. Next, you need to disconnect all the lines from the radiator unit in the engine compartment. Having done this, you can use a wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the metal casing to the engine shield. This nut is located next to the pipes that go into the Kalina's interior.
3. Next, we move into the car interior. You need to remove the gas pedal; to do this, unscrew the three nuts. As for the brake pedal, it cannot be removed, so just move it to the side as far as possible.
4. Now you have to cut the steel casing as shown in the photo, and then cut off the tubes of the radiator assembly. Having done this, you can dismantle the device from the pedals, but to do this you will also need to unscrew the bolts that secure it.
5. Before installing a new radiator device, it will be necessary to carefully sand its tubes. Please note that they should be as even as possible. After all surfaces are ready, a line with a widened end is put on the upper tube, and a line with a narrower end is put on the lower tube. The remaining outputs must be connected in the engine compartment instead of the old ones. Also note that on the side of the Kalina’s interior, it is advisable to treat the place where the lines exit into the engine compartment with sound-insulating material.

1. Disconnect the pipes from the radiator system.

2. Cut off the casing and saw off the tubes as shown in the photo.

3. Remove the assembly clamp and replace it with a new one.

Price issue

The range of radiator units for Kalina is not particularly large. On average, prices for radiators are as follows:

1. Radiator device from AvtoVAZ (price - about 940 rubles)

2. Device from DAAZ (price - about 1 thousand rubles)

How to remove the panel on Kalina 2 (VAZ 2192, 2194)

h3 >Removing the Kalina 2 dashboard Required: Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. For Kalina 2 vehicles with air conditioning, unload the refrigerant from the air conditioning system in accordance with the operating instructions for the service equipment. Prepare a 8-point, 10-point, 13-point, 21-point socket, a Phillips and a flat-head screwdriver.

Unscrew the two bolts (No. 2) securing the thermostatic valve (No. 1) of the air conditioner using a 10" socket.

Unscrew the nut (No. 7) securing the heater using a '10' wrench. Loosen the clamps (No. 4 and No. 6) using the '8' socket. Disconnect the outlet (No. 3) and inlet (No. 5) hoses from the heater radiator. Remove the cabin filter.

Remove the four screws (No. 1) securing the heating and air conditioning system air intake using a Phillips screwdriver.

Remove Kalina's beard 2. Unscrew the bolt (No. 1) securing the parking brake lever, remove the bracket (No. 2) of the handbrake limit switch using a 13-inch socket.

Unscrew the two bolts (No. 2) from the right and left sides that secure the pillar (No. 1) of the instrument panel cross member to the floor tunnel, using a 13-inch socket. Unscrew the nut (No. 3) of the ground wire of the instrument panel harness using a 10mm socket. Under the front seats, unscrew the nut securing the air duct (No. 4) for heating the interior using a 10mm socket. Remove the air duct.

Remove the steering column

How to complete a manual (classic method)

1. According to the factory instructions, the work of dismantling the heating device takes from three to six hours, including the preparatory stage. Below we briefly analyze the main stage of dismantling the heater. You need to start by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Before removing the heater, you must disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Second step: remove the windshield frame trim. We remove the battery and air filter housing along with the air duct. According to the instructions, you need to remove the windshield frame trim
3. Remove the battery from the engine compartment.
4. The next step is to disconnect the radiator hoses, which will drain the coolant and go under the car. Before draining the coolant, disconnect the heater hoses.
5. Then you need to unscrew the bolt securing the heater to the partition of the engine compartment. Disconnect the heater
6. Last step. Remove the heater cover and heat exchanger. The radiator is located under the dashboard in a plastic housing, so in this case the console and front seats must be removed from the passenger compartment. In addition, the main stage of work, in addition to removing the torpedo, is preceded by the dismantling of the steering column, power steering and central tunnel.

Removing and installing the Kalina instrument panel

• Driver for socket attachment
• 8mm wrench attachment
• High nozzle on the wrench 10 mm
• Knob attachment 13 mm
• Open-end wrench 10 mm
• Torx wrench (asterisk) T-20
• Medium Phillips screwdriver
• Medium flat screwdriver
• Wide 6 liter capacity

Parts and consumables:

Removing the instrument panel assembly with the heater is performed when it is necessary to replace the heater radiator, remove the heater fan electric motor, and also to remove the heater assembly.

1. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.

Operating principle of the stove

When the car engine is running, the engine cooling system begins to work; due to the operation of the piston group, the engine heats up, thereby heating up the coolant. The operation of the heater is based on heating the antifreeze, that is, the higher the engine temperature, the more efficient the heater is. The stove develops full power when the liquid is heated to 85°C.

The cooling liquid circulates through the system and also passes through the heater radiator, it heats up. A special fan is installed in front of the radiator, which drives air through its honeycombs, thereby heating the air. The heated air then passes through the heater damper system and is directed to the desired position chosen by the driver of the car, be it the legs or the windshield.

Sound insulation of Kalina panel/dashboard

If you decide to make soundproofing for Kalina yourself, then you will have to buy:

1. Anti-creak (modelin).
2. Vibrating material (for example, STP).
3. Plastic clamps.
4. Hot-melt gun and hot glue.
5. Bitoplast or splen, optional.

How to choose the right heater radiator

When choosing a suitable radiator from a fairly extensive range, you should remember a few simple rules.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the metal from which the heating system element is made. Cheap options are made of aluminum. If it cracks, the owner has only one choice - throw it away and buy a new one.

Meanwhile, the brass-copper model, although more expensive, can be easily repaired - cracks in it can be easily sealed.

It is also important that the swirlers of the new radiator are made of durable plastic. As practice shows, such models last for many years and rarely become clogged.