How to connect door limit switches to a VAZ 2110 alarm system

January 12, 2017 Lada.Online 43 348 0

To increase safety (so that the driver does not start driving with the door open and for the alarm to work), cars are equipped with open door sensors (popularly “limit switches” or “limit switches”). Their malfunction causes the interior lighting to work incorrectly and prevents the car from being armed. Let's figure out how to check and, if necessary, replace door switches.

Wiring check

Instructions for cars of the B0 assembly line (XRAY, Largus, Nissan Almera, Renault Duster, Sandero). Remove the limit switch and set the multimeter to voltmeter mode. We measure the voltage at the contacts of the block with the wires:

  • If there is no voltage, the circuit of the interior lamp lamp or the lamp itself is faulty.
  • if the voltage is significantly less than 12 V, the wire connecting the sensor to ground is probably damaged.

We set the multimeter to ohmmeter mode, connect one probe to ground (body), and the other to the terminal of the block with the black wire. The resistance should be close to zero. If the resistance is high and tends to infinity, the connection between the wire and the body is probably damaged by corrosion or the wire is damaged (treat the connection with a product to protect electrical contacts). If the fault cannot be resolved in this way, it is necessary to remove the interior trim from the pillar, find and fix the fault.

Troubleshooting door switches


There are often cases when the door switch does not work.
There may be a lot of reasons for this, including dust, clogging and dirt, oxidation, or due to moisture getting inside during the cold season, it simply froze. The fault in this case lies only with the owner of the car, who, due to inattention, was unable to notice the non-working door switches in time. After all, monitoring their operation in each machine is very clear and it is difficult not to notice a non-working condition. But the solution to this problem today is quite simple - a sealed boot that completely covers the button and does not allow dust, dirt and moisture into this mechanism.

Before you start installing the boot, you need to pierce a cross-shaped notch on its underside where the end switch is attached. After this, you need to install a self-tapping screw in the button hole, then put on the boot and insert a screwdriver through the puncture and secure it to the body. This method surprises with its reliability, simplicity and accessibility.

Alarm Installation Instructions

Before installing the alarm, you need to prepare everything you might need:

  • alarm kit;
  • insulating tape;
  • corrugations for laying wires;
  • stationery knife;
  • drill;
  • Screwdriver Set;
  • plastic clamps for fixing wiring (video author - Sergey Zukol).

Stages

How to install correctly and how to connect the signaling system in a VAZ 2109:

  1. First of all, you need to disconnect the battery.
  2. Then the upholstery is removed from the doors, you also need to dismantle the plastic trim elements on the sills and side pillars, use a screwdriver to do this.
  3. Next, the executive motor, that is, the solenoid, should be fixed to the door. For fixation, use plates and screws.
  4. After this, the dial rods are connected to the lock rod. If their length does not match, then they can be slightly bent.
  5. A siren is installed in the engine compartment; it must be located away from the engine. When installing a siren, remember that its operation is negatively affected by high temperatures and moisture . The siren needs to be installed with the horn down, the wiring from it is thrown into the cabin.
  6. A control module is installed in the lower part of the center console, in particular under the instrument panel. Please note that it is better to install it so that if the car is broken into, the unit cannot be found by an intruder.
  7. If there are no standard holes in the racks and doors, they will need to be drilled using a drill.
  8. Then the wiring from the electric motor to the control module is laid. The electrical circuit installed in the door must be protected using a pre-prepared corrugation. If there are places where there are twists, they should be insulated.
  9. The above points, in addition to installing the siren and control module, are repeated for each door.
  10. Then the shock sensor is installed; it needs to be installed somewhere in the central part of the body, so it will record impacts on it from all sides.
  11. An antenna with a diode indicator is placed on the windshield, preferably as high as possible. The antenna adapter must not be placed in close proximity to metal parts of the body, as this will cause interference.
  12. Now all you have to do is connect all the elements in accordance with the diagram included in the kit, and also connect power to the control module. It is better to protect this circuit with a fuse. Then the performance of the anti-theft system is diagnosed, if everything works fine, but assemble the interior trim.

Photo gallery “Installing a signaling system”

Price issue

Today you can buy a more or less high-quality central lock for 1 thousand rubles. As for alarms specifically, in this case the range of anti-theft systems is quite large. The cost of the simplest alarm system for “Nine” will be about 2,500 rubles. More functional systems will cost around 6-10 thousand rubles. You can also find expensive alarms on the market, the price of which will be above 30 thousand rubles.

Programming the standard control unit

Manufacturers, with each new car leaving the assembly line, increase its comfort and ergonomics. The cars are “stuffed” with electronic safety and comfort systems. They provide maximum driving pleasure.

The car central lock is a convenient and useful invention. Used over the past few decades. Its creation allowed the driver to get rid of unnecessary manipulations associated with opening and closing the driver's and passenger doors.

Since its inception, the central car lock has undergone a number of significant changes. Controls the opening of not only the doors, but also the trunk. The car's central locking cannot operate indefinitely. Sooner or later, malfunctions occur in its operation requiring repair or complete replacement of the system.

A person who gets used to good things is sensitive to the failure of comfort systems. He feels uncomfortable wasting time on manipulations that previously required just a finger press. A malfunction of the central locking forces the driver to look for information about why the central locking does not work.

At the end of the article you can find a video on how to repair a car's central locking system. It will be an excellent addition to the text material. Enjoy watching.

Standard anti-theft system "Nine"

Almost all “nines” at one time were standardly equipped with central locks.

The central locking circuit diagram consists of:

  1. Control module or relay. This device is designed to transmit impulses to gear motors located in the doors. The control module is a circuit that is installed in a plastic case. It has special fasteners with which the device is fixed in the seat.
  2. The central locking system involves the use of input controllers. They can be made in the form of limit switches that are mounted in the doors, or in the form of special microswitches installed directly in the locks. Limit switches are used to fix the position of the door at a given moment and transmit an impulse to the control module. As for the microswitches, they are designed to fix the position of the main components of the lock itself.
  3. The central locking system is also equipped with actuators designed to ensure the opening and closing of locks. Such devices include in their design rods connected to the rear door rods.
  4. A control panel connected to a central unit, used to transmit signals.

Installing a central lock with your own hands is not a particularly difficult procedure, but today such anti-theft devices are no longer relevant.

Immobilizer and its location

Not all Nines were equipped with immobilizers as standard. Immo installation was provided for car modifications with a high center console. The purpose of the immobilizer is to lock the steering mechanism after the ignition key is turned off. This device also allows you to block the engine in case the car is broken into. In VAZ 2109 cars with a high console, the immo block is installed behind the dashboard, in particular, between the steering column and the steering column, where a choke is installed in carburetor versions.

Why doesn't the central locking work?

For what reasons the central locking system may not work:

  1. The battery in the control panel is dead. Accordingly, the system will not respond to turning the locks on and off from the key fob.
  2. The keychain is broken. If the remote control fails, most likely, its circuit board will have to be repaired.
  3. Failure of the control unit. If problems occur in the operation of the control module, this can lead to incorrect operation of the system or its complete failure. The reasons can be different, ranging from wear and ending with damage caused by the operation of the module in vibration conditions. The reason may also be moisture getting on the board. In any case, the board itself must be repaired.
  4. Failure of input sensors. As practice shows, limit switches and microswitches wear out over time, so it is quite normal that they fail. Failed elements must be replaced.
  5. Failure of the actuator or solenoid. If this device breaks down, the car owner will face a problem when one of the car doors does not work. A failed solenoid can be easily replaced with a new one.
  6. Poor contact of sensors or control unit with the on-board network. If the contacts are broken, full operation of the central lock will be impossible. If possible, the contacts can be cleaned; if not, then replaced.
  7. Damage to the electrical circuit. It happens that as a result of prolonged use, as well as temperature changes, damage to the insulating layer of the wires occurs. In this case, damaged sections of the electrical circuit must be replaced (the author of the video is TAZavod channel 42).

How to disable immo?

How to disable the immobilizer on the injector? There are several options. A more complex method is to reprogram and change the firmware of the immo block using a computer. We will not describe this method, since it is quite complex and not everyone can cope with it. It is better to entrust this procedure to professionals.

Connection points for standard alarm systems on Lada Priora

  • Hood end (-) – white, black in the connector in the middle;
  • Ignition (+) – orange in the connector in the middle;
  • Button for opening the trunk lid (-) – black, white in a small connector;
  • Luggage compartment end switch (-) – black, white in a small connector;
  • Factory sound warning system - black, white on the safety panel. Owners of VAZ models change or improve the existing protection. Upgrading protection on a Priora is not difficult. To control the central locking, you need to cut the brown wire in the driver's door and connect according to the diagram.

Basic limit switches

  1. Ignition – blue, black, located in the ignition switch area;
  2. Starter – red;
  3. Turns – blue and blue with black line;
  4. Ignition – orange;
  5. The hood tip is white with a black stripe;
  6. The generator is black with a brown line.

Installation of limiters from Ford Focus 3

To work you will need the following tools:

  1. Collar;
  2. Torx bit T20;
  3. Torx bit T40;
  4. A plastic spatula for dismantling upholstery components - if you don’t have one, you can use a thin screwdriver, first placing a cloth under it so as not to damage the door card components and paintwork.
  5. Head for 10.

First you need to remove the door cards. First, use a plastic spatula to remove all components that block access to the bolts. You need to work carefully so as not to break the latches. Next, the mounting bolts are unscrewed using a T20 Torx bit. That's all - all that remains is to snap off the card, which is secured along the contour with caps

At the same time, it is important not to break the door opening handle, and also to disconnect the plugs for the electric windows. Then you need to remove the insulating material glued to the door to gain access inside

The next step is to dismantle the limiter itself. It is screwed to the body with one Torx T40 bolt, and to the door with a pair of bolts, to unscrew which you will need a 10mm socket. When the bolts are unscrewed, all that remains is to remove the limiter, but this must be done carefully, since you can lose the washers on the studs (in the places where the element is attached to door). In addition, after removing the limiter from the Vesta door, you need to make sure that the door does not open further than it should, which is especially important for the front doors. Otherwise, you can crush the edge and damage the paintwork.

The process of removing the upholstery and the door stop itself from the Lada Vesta is clearly demonstrated in the video

Installing limiters from Focus 3 in Vesta is not difficult, but there is one point. During installation, those 2 mm differences between the studs that were mentioned earlier begin to affect. For this reason, the limiter is not installed. There are two ways to solve the problem:

  1. Working with holes - you need to carefully drill out the seats with a drill or bore them with a file so that the element becomes as needed.
  2. Adjusting the studs - it involves bending the studs slightly inward so that they fit freely into the holes.

As practice shows, it is still better to squander the seats. Yes, it takes longer, but it is much more reliable. The reason is that the pins on the limiter are hardened, so if you bend them more than necessary, they can break and the limiter will have to be thrown away. In addition, before installation you need to put thick washers or nuts on the studs themselves. This is necessary, since the length of the element pins from Focus is several millimeters longer than those on Vesta.

If this is not done, the functionality of the component will not be affected, but at the end of the stroke it will no longer be a spare part from Ford that will stop the doors, but a factory additional stop. As a result, the paint will peel off very quickly and corrosion will appear at the contact point.

Once the stops are installed, you can reassemble the doors in reverse order.

Stages of lighting installation

To install lighting in your car, you will need a strong hand, a minimal set of tools and literally a few hours of time. This is the maximum, since motorists usually manage to do this much faster.

Regardless of whether the lighting is based on a lampshade or an LED strip, the installation diagram will be different.

The entire installation procedure can be divided into 2 main stages:

  • installation, that is, fastening the structure;
  • connection to the vehicle's electrical network.

Installation depends on which lighting fixture option you decide to use.

Installation and connection of LED strip

To install and connect the lighting for the glove compartment, you will need a relatively small piece of LED strip. It has its own connection diagram, which differs from using a conventional lamp.

The first step is to buy the tape that suits your needs and measure out which piece you will need to install inside the glove box. It is better to dismantle the latter first. This will make it much more convenient to work.

In the future, the installation and connection diagram for the lighting for a car glove compartment will look something like this. As a result, you will receive the long-awaited coverage:

  • cut the required piece of tape;
  • apply to the area of ​​the glove compartment inside the box where it is most convenient to place the tape;
  • make marks;
  • make a couple of holes to pull the wiring through;
  • if there are several segments, a separate wire is connected to each of them;
  • It is recommended to make the connection by soldering rather than using a connector;
  • if the contact pads are filled with silicone, they need to be cleaned and a little sealant removed;
  • degrease the surface of the glove compartment where the tape is laid;
  • insert the wires into the holes;
  • remove the protective layer, glue the tape;
  • Additionally, use hot-melt glue around the edges, since a regular adhesive layer can dry out over time and the tape will fall;
  • check the functionality of the tape by connecting a 12V power source to the wiring (a regular A23 battery will do);
  • connect.

It is the connection diagram and its features when organizing illumination of the glove compartment using an LED strip that raises the most questions. In practice, you can connect the tape in two ways.

Connection can be made through the cigarette lighter or 12V wire directly, or using a separate power supply.

In cars, the mains voltage is 12 V. But this is in theory. In practice, it can constantly change and increase. LED strips designed to operate on 12 V do not like overvoltage and soon fail.

For such tasks, it is necessary to obtain a stable 12 V. The optimal way out of the situation is the use of a stabilizer. There is the concept of a driver and a power supply. Both of these devices are called stabilizers.

The driver stabilizes the current, that is, the voltage on it can decrease and increase. The block acts primarily as a source of stable voltage. When connecting the LEDs in the glove compartment, use the power supply.

Experts call pulse blocks the best option. They can be purchased ready-made so as not to assemble them yourself. These are chips in a box that are based on a circuit like LM2596. To connect to it, you need to solder a wire to the input and output, and run them onto the LED strip. And then to a suitable power source from the on-board network. The block will stabilize the voltage, and the tape will be able to function normally and for a long time.

Limit switch Lada Largus, door limit switch

Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending limit switch 7700427640, in the “Comment” line, indicate the model of your car, year of manufacture.

In simple terms, a door switch is a button, when pressed by a moving object, an action occurs that is entirely dependent on the actuator.

The door limit switch 7700427640 is designed to inform about the opening or closing of the Lada Largus door by closing or opening the contacts.

The operation of the limit switch 7700427640 for the Lada Largus is that when the doors are open, a special symbol lights up on the panel.

The car security system (system unit) is usually connected to the Lada Largus door limit switch. This design allows for maximum protection of the car door and trunk area. The limit switch is attached to the surface of the door and connected by electrical wires.

If, when setting the alarm, the door is not closed or not completely closed, that is, the limit switch is open, then the “alarm” will definitely notify you about this.

There are often cases when the door switch does not work. There may be a lot of reasons for this, including dust, clogging and dirt, oxidation, or due to moisture getting inside during the cold season, it simply froze. The fault in this case lies only with the owner of the car, who, due to inattention, was unable to notice the non-working door switches in time. After all, monitoring their operation in each machine is very clear and it is difficult not to notice a non-working condition.

The solution to this problem is a sealed boot that completely covers the button and prevents dust, dirt and moisture from entering this mechanism. Before you start installing the boot, you need to pierce a cross-shaped notch on its underside where the end switch is attached. After this, you need to install a self-tapping screw in the button hole, then put on the boot and insert a screwdriver through the puncture and secure it to the body. This method surprises with its reliability, simplicity and accessibility.

Other article numbers of the product and its analogues in catalogues: 7700427640.

PLADA Largus 4601, RENAULT Logan.

Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to replace the door switch on a Lada Largus car yourself.

With the AvtoAzbuka online store, repair costs will be minimal.

Just COMPARE and BE SURE!!!

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Types of faults

There are a lot of situations and cases when central locks on cars do not work. But it is important to understand exactly what happened and how the malfunction manifests itself. Mostly malfunctions manifest themselves in the form of a refusal to respond to certain commands. Sometimes the system opens completely. Mostly motorists are faced with the following situations:

  • the castle behaves unstable;
  • partial failure is observed;
  • The central locking system does not respond to commands from the key fob;
  • the system does not respond to commands from the key.

Each of the presented situations requires separate consideration.

Unstable work

There are cases when the central locks on cars have not stopped working, but their behavior and functioning can be described as unstable. That is, they can work normally when commands are given, but at some point give out unexpected surprises. Basically, instability at work manifests itself as follows:

  • When the driver presses the key fob button, incorrect operation of the control unit or module is observed. The block either reacts to commands or completely ignores them and does not execute them. One time everything functions perfectly, no problems arise, but the next time there are failures. When sending commands to the central locking from the remote control, they may or may not be executed;
  • When trying to open the door locks, at first the system opens them normally, but after a while it spontaneously locks them again. Although the driver did not give such a command. Locks can behave similarly when receiving a closing command. The doors lock and then unblock themselves;
  • When the driver presses the button to open the doors, the control device closes them. And when you try to close the door, the opposite situation occurs, that is, the doors open;
  • After pressing the open or close button, only part of the car doors carries out the command. One or more doors do not respond to signals, or perform actions opposite to the command.

Repair of electric central locking

Electric central locks on cars are sensitive to temperature changes and high air humidity. At first they start to freeze and after a short time they refuse to work.

Causes of malfunction of the electrical central locking system:

1.Breakage of electrical circuit wires.

Careless actions when dismantling doors or repairing them lead to a break in the electrical wire in the corrugations. It is necessary to “ring” the electrical circuit to find damage

2. Relay failure.

The damaged relay is replaced and the system operates as before.

3. Malfunctions of the control board.

It is being repaired or replaced.

4. Wear of motor gears.

Active use of the central locking system leads to wear and tear on the working elements of the motor. Plastic gears suffer. They wear out as a result of work. They are being replaced.

The central locking system in a car is a useful and convenient feature for the driver. To repair it, you need to understand the structure and principle of operation.

Thank you for your attention, good luck on your journey. Read, comment and ask questions

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Checking the door switch

When the rod is recessed, the contacts are open. First of all, we check the serviceability of the sensors by opening all the car doors one by one.

Check with a multimeter. We connect a multimeter to the limit switch terminals in ohmmeter mode and check the closure of the sensor contacts (the contacts must be closed, the resistance is close to zero). We press the sensor rod and check the measurements (the contacts must be open - the resistance tends to infinity).

Let us remind you that in some cases (for example, in the cold season) limit switches may work intermittently. For Lada Vesta, Grant and Kalina 2 you can use this solution, and for Priora this.

Replacement

To remove the limit switches, open the doors, then:

  1. remove the protective cover from the sensor by simply pulling it towards you.
  2. pry off the limit switch with a screwdriver
  3. remove the limit switches by snapping off the three latches
  4. disconnect the block with wires.

On some Lada models (for example, Lada Priora or Niva 4x4), the limit switches are attached to the body with a screw.

On the Lada XRAY the limit switch is located in the door lock and changes along with the lock.

Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Door switches on Lada Granta Liftback

Structurally, each limit switch is located in the lower right corner of the doorway. As soon as the door opens, the contacts open and a signal is transmitted to the dashboard and interior lighting unit.

Freezing of the rubber tip contributes to the hardening of the cap and unstable operation of the door activation mechanism. To maximize the service life of rubber tips, they are periodically lubricated with silicone grease to maintain (increase) elasticity. Fixation to the body is carried out using spacer clamps made of plastic. When the base is inserted into the socket, the clamps expand, preventing the base from moving freely.

To connect the sensor to the power circuit, two terminals “+” and “-” are connected to the wires coming from the interior lighting. Be sure to observe polarity! As a rule, “plus” is indicated by red insulation, and “minus” by white with a black stripe.

Door opening sensor 2109

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The problem is this. When there are more than 3 people in the car, periodically while driving (on bumps, during acceleration/braking) the door open alarm goes off, and usually only for a split second. At the same time, naturally, the light on the additional unit lights up, the signal beeps and the interior light lamp blinks. And so - all the way. It freezes me completely! The essence of the question is this: what could be the matter? Has anyone encountered this? I checked the closed door sensors - on all 5 doors and the hood they seem to work as they should, the doors seem to be fixed correctly too (tightly enough so as not to move away). I rocked the car and shook it, in short, it seems I tried everything. And here’s the catch: if there are 3 people or less in the car, there are absolutely no problems either when driving quickly, or on ups or downs. In short, I hesitated.

The contact (wire) on one of the doors comes off.

A rubber foot from a computer glued to the hood opposite the sensor pin helped.

olegator_spb wrote: . When there are more than 3 people in the car, the open door alarm goes off periodically while driving (on bumps, during acceleration/braking)

I think I can help. I have 100% the same garbage (bought in May) on my tag (bought it in May). Almost the entire salon was shaken up - it turned out that there was a lion in the area. lane rack, the sharp edge of the body dug into the wire (blue and white) running from the driver's door end switch to the block. fuses. Moreover, you can only see this by removing the torpedo! When moving (sometimes when closing the door), body parts move slightly and bite the wiring. I was too lazy to take off the torpe. — cut off the fuse block below. this wire, and ran another, passing through the rack from above, above the dashboard (it’s easier to drill a hole in the rack there). The new wire and hole were covered with standard lining. Good luck.

superconst

I think I'll try this first. Maybe it will help.

Sergey 22

I checked all the doors. I stopped several times, opened and closed all the doors and the hood - to no avail. And my doors close too well for them not to be closed tightly. I usually give a little push with my little finger when I get out of the car - and that’s it, the door is closed. Exactly the same with everyone else. I'm surprised myself!

Tyozka

Thanks for the advice! First I'll try to glue the rubber bands on. And then, if it doesn’t help, I’ll climb the racks

Yes, it seems like I have one limit switch on the back door

Hmmm, damn it. I shouldn't have been happy.

Last night there were five of us traveling. Well, I’m driving in a dense traffic of 60 - I’m not disturbing anyone. And then on the left the mu..k swims out, overtakes and tries to fit in. But he thought that he was the cunning one, and on that lane the road was being repaired, and it was fenced off with concrete blocks. Well, before he had time, he got stuck. Everyone, of course, slowed down to about 10, since the right corner of the front bumper ended up in the adjacent lane, where the greyhound was embedded. And now I was already halfway past the body, when it suddenly MOVES! Right at me! I automatically go first (the speed is scanty) and put the gas to the floor. He didn't pull too hard. But. The door open alarm went off. And he worked all the way!

Functions and purpose of the central lock

The car's central locking is the “heart” of the security system. Responsible for monitoring the locks in the car. That is why it is called central. The signal sent from the key fob symbolizing the central control unit closes or opens the doors, windows, trunk and hatch.

Central locking is one of the car's auxiliary comfort systems. The development of the central locking system does not stand still. New car models are equipped with a system that ensures automatic closing of door locks when driving. Some car models combine central locking and alarm systems under a single control.

Door opening sensor 2109

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a bug is a small self-tapping screw

where should the protrusion of the bug's twist be?

Still, I wonder why there is no ledge on the door?

Everybody makes spare parts for our cars.

When you pick up such a product, you just want to cry, because... it looks like it was made by a careless schoolboy during a labor class.

When you pick up such a product, you just want to cry, because... it looks like it was made by a careless schoolboy during a labor class.

special plastic coins

special plastic spandrels

So this buffer is used for glue. What is it? Otherwise they sometimes seem to chatter.

Did Skobaristanych install euro limit switches? _________________

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Reliability level

Undoubtedly, the standard alarm system installed and configured on the Lada Priora is simple, reliable and fully adapted to difficult local weather conditions. Properly activated, it leaves no doubt about its functionality. Besides:

  • the quality of installation and configuration of factory alarms is guaranteed by experienced factory specialists and the control service of the enterprise;
  • The key fob is integrated into the regular ignition key. There is no need to wear them separately in a whole bunch;
  • there is no need to equip standardly installed equipment with anything;
  • The factory alarm system of the Lada Priora is covered by the factory warranty;
  • if the Lada owner wishes to install and configure an additional sensor, there is a spare port;

If the central locking from the key fob does not work: troubleshooting sequence

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Any repair or troubleshooting in a car must begin with checking the fuses that serve a specific system. There are three of them in the diagram below. Usually it can be more. You need to find their location using the car's instruction manual or searching on the Internet.

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Video - if the central locking does not work from the alarm, then first check the fuses:

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If all fuses are in good working order, proceed to determining the location of the malfunction based on its characteristic symptoms.

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Central locking does not close the doors

There are several options for central locking:

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does not respond to the key fob signal at all, in this case it is necessary to check, or better yet, immediately change the key fob battery;

does not close the door even with the lock key;

closes and immediately opens the doors.

The last option is associated with loose closure of windows or doors. It is necessary to try to press each door sequentially, supporting it with your whole body, and at the moment of pressing, try to close the central locking.

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Perhaps a foreign object has gotten into the closing area of ​​a door; it needs to be checked. You should also check the pressure of the glass so that it fits tightly into the upper grooves.

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If the central lock does not respond to the key fob and key, the wires may have broken in the area of ​​the corrugation entering the door. If you have experience repairing electrical wiring, you can find the faulty wire and connect it.

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The central locking system does not open the doors, but at the same time closes them

One option is to shift the door hanger. The lock is locked with a door latch. This type of malfunction often occurs in the trunk doors. You have to press them manually to wedge the movement of the lock drive. When you try to open the door, you should hear a click from the drive. In some cars it is almost inaudible; you have to put your ear to the door.

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Central locking only closes the driver's door

Here, most likely, the malfunction is a breakdown in communication from the driver's door control unit to the central unit or other doors. You should remove the corrugated hose from the wiring transition from the driver's door to the car interior - there will be a break there.

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In some car models, there is a connecting connector at the junction of the wiring into the car interior; you can check its contacts. It is also necessary to examine the electrical wiring under the door trim and all connectors.

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One of the doors does not open

Possible malfunctions: damage to the electrical wiring in the corrugation or on the way to it in the cabin, malfunction of the lock drive.

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Video - the central locking of the driver's door on a Skoda Fabia does not work:

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The lock drive is easy to replace and is inexpensive. During replacement, the main thing is not to damage the levers, rods and plastic tips.

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If you replace the central locking drive yourself, to be sure, it is better to find a mechanical diagram on the Internet, reference books, or instruction manual so that you do not forget to install any part.

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If the central locking system does not work

When the central locking opens but does not close the doors, or there are other problems, and the car is equipped with an alarm, the check begins with testing it. If the central locking does not work from its remote control, but works fine from its own or from a button, the reason is the alarm. If this is not the reason, you will have to tinker. A complete failure of the central locking system is characterized by barely audible clicks from the drives; the buttons for manually opening the doors will remain motionless.

In this case, the first thing you need to do is check the fuse leading to the central locking. You should first clarify the central locking circuit, since there may be several fuses. Very often it is at this stage that the repair ends. If one of them fails, you should know that this indicates a short circuit in its circuit, and the check must be carried out taking this into account.

If the fuses are normal, but the back door does not close from the central locking, or simply there are difficulties when operating from the button, you should check the wires suitable to it for integrity and the presence of oxide on the terminals, and the button itself for “sticking”. At the same time, it’s worth checking the activator located in the driver’s door - if it does not receive power or control signals, all other activators also turn out to be inoperative.

Often this is also evidenced by the situation when the driver's door does not close from the central locking or from the key fob. A problem with the power supply often causes the central locking to not lock with the key. In this case, the wires are checked for the presence of electrical impulses, and the quality of contact/integrity of the cables is checked, and lastly, the door switches.

Finalization of the scheme

Work on modifying the door end elements can be delegated to service station specialists. In this case, the owner will be charged an installation fee. You can do everything yourself, then installing limit switches will require plumbing tools and a device for checking the electrical circuit:

  1. Tester.
  2. Soldering iron.
  3. Phillips screwdriver.
  4. The wire.
  5. Solder POS-40.
  6. Corrugated hose.
  7. Insulating tape.
  8. Limit switch.

Both options involve parallel connection of unused elements to the working terminals of the door on the driver's side. The switches for opening the doorway of a Lada car are powered using a two-wire circuit. To simplify the choice, we will consider both options.

AvtoVAZ recalls 3,994 Lada Granta cars due to problems with brakes

Earlier it was reported that AvtoVAZ suspended sales of almost 7 thousand Lada Granta cars. Now, a recall campaign has started based on this discrepancy. In order to guarantee the consumer properties of Lada Granta cars, dealership centers will carry out work to replace the check valve of the vacuum brake booster (VUT). This is stated in order No. 48-19 dated September 26, 2019. For this purpose, the company's engineers developed a method for replacing this VUT check valve. A source close to the plant reported this to the Lada.Online website.

The document states that if you have a car from the list (you can download it below), it is necessary to carry out work on the territory of the dealership to replace the check valve of the vacuum booster. When carrying out work, follow the methodology. To carry out the above work, AvtoVAZ will notify car owners before October 26 about the need to visit the dealership.

Method for finding door limit switches for connecting car alarms

To search for circuits, try to use a voltmeter (especially in cars of recent years of production), since using a lamp probe may damage the car's auto electrics!!!

Limit switches are usually of 2 types. Positive (when the doors are opened, +12 Volts hang on them) and negative (when the doors are opened, they are shorted to ground). Positive limit switches are much less common (domestic GAZ-Volgas, bourgeois Fords, some BMWs, sometimes standard trunk limit switches of various cars) than negative ones. Some alarms do not even have a wire to connect the positive end switch.

So, we take a probe, sit on the “plus” with one end, and start poking at the wires with the other. If the probe light lights up, then press the door button or click the lock on the door, looking at where the limit switch is (all remaining doors must be closed) - if the light goes out, then it’s the negative limit switch. Now do the same with the other doors without changing the position of the probe. If the probe light in this case behaves the same way as with the first door, then you are lucky: all the door limit switches are tied, and you don’t have to worry anymore about finding the remaining limit switches.

It happens that the limit switch for each door runs on a separate wire. Then you have to look for every wire. In this case, the method of searching for limit switches is no different from the above. You just have to cut into these wires, drag the cut ends to one point (to the alarm) and there, using diodes, connect to the alarm wire (negative door trigger). We install the diodes so that the negatives from the door buttons go to the alarm wire, but do not go to the other buttons. Read more about the use of diodes in the article Diode and its use when installing car alarms.

It can be easier and more convenient to cut into the wire going to the interior lighting lamp. In this case, you need to look: the light goes out immediately after closing the doors or after a few seconds. If immediately, then you can safely cling to this wire. If not, then you need to program the alarm so that it will arm the doors not immediately after arming, but after some time (each alarm has its own values ​​for this interval).

When installing a car alarm with auto start, pay attention - when starting and stopping the engine, the light in the cabin should not light up; if it does light up, then you cannot cling to such a light bulb (the alarm will assume that the doors have opened and the siren will turn on). When searching for positive limit switches, we sit down on ground with one end of the probe, and start piercing the wires with the other

The technique is the same as described above

When searching for positive limit switches, we sit down on ground with one end of the probe, and start piercing the wires with the other. The technique is the same as described above.

At the end of this section I will tell you where it is better to look for the limit switch wires. The wires to the interior lighting lamp are most often located in the driver's or passenger's side pillar. You can ring the wires in the passenger and driver thresholds. You can very easily find the limit switch behind the instrument panel. You’ll be lucky if there are inscriptions for the tracks behind the panel (doors, for example, on a Nissan, this is DOOR) or you can easily trace the path from the light bulb where the open door is drawn to the connector where the wire from the door buttons goes. It happens that there is not a light bulb on the panel, but a diode. In this case, it can be said 100 percent that the limit switches are untied and each one will have to be looked for separately

Usually, the negatives from each button come to one point - the fuse box, radio-controlled central locking unit, original alarm system, etc. — then one common wire goes to the instrument panel, but on this wire there is already a different signal, and not 12 Volts. The most difficult way is to run wires into each door (for example, in Volkswagen they had to do this, since in each door there was a block into which the negative signals from the door locks entered, and modified signals went from the block into the cabin). It was not possible to connect to the interior lamp for the reason I mentioned above.

There are even more difficult cases when using a probe it is not possible to find limit switches. For example, Fords are the latest. When the doors are open, +12 Volts hang on the end wires from the doors, but these wires can only be found with a voltmeter. It also happens that the wires from the door limit switches have to be connected through resistors (resistance). Well, these are complex cases and, as a rule, the owners themselves do not install alarms on such cars.

What is a limit switch, where is it located, the location of limit switches on different cars

Modern cars are slightly different from older vehicles in terms of appearance and functionality. Such machines have evolved into real computers, but there are devices and parts that remain mandatory for both old and new machines. We are talking about the main parts, additional temperature and light indicators, and also limit switches. Now you can figure out what a limit switch is and where it is located in cars of different generations.

Limit switches and their purpose, where they are located in different cars

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People who had to deal with the process of independently installing an alarm on a car definitely had to deal with the word limit switch. The instructions say that certain wires must be connected to it.

This detail is present on absolutely every old or new car, on the doors and hood of the Grant, Niva, Kalina, Skoda, Logan, Chevrolet, Lanos, Octavia, Sprinter and other vehicles. The operating principle of limit switches is very simple, and the devices themselves are quite small in size, inexpensive, and very easy to connect.

They are necessary so that you can correctly open the doors, the hood, use the lighting, and for other purposes that involve the process of enabling or disabling functions.

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End switches - what lies behind this name

When a car door or hood is opened, an alarm is installed, small parts are replaced, everyone always remembers the limit switches. For owners of Niva, Logan, Chevrolet, Lanos, Logan, Kalina or others, they look different.

The limit switches may look like ordinary switches, which are located on the door, trunk and other necessary points, or they may be hidden inside the door - this type of arrangement is used for Kalina cars, because there the limit switches are located in the door locks. This arrangement is less convenient than the external one, but is also more reliable.

Limit switches are small systems that act as switches and are practically impossible to do without.

By the word “limit switch” the car driver should understand the following:

  • a microsystem that helps establish proper control of specific machine mechanisms;
  • small switches whose function is to transmit a signal through wires to the main control system to produce a specific action;
  • devices that operate as closing and unlocking buttons.

There are positive and negative limit switches. Negative ones are much more common and are located in cars such as Niva, Chevrolet, Lanos, Logan, Sprinter. In Volgas and Fords, BMW tour cars you can find positive limit switches. The operating principle of all these devices is the same, but the installation features, as well as the different types of alarms, differ.

Plus and minus limit switches - what is their difference

End switches of different types differ little from each other, but are divided into positive and negative. Positive limit switches can be found quite rarely, but their presence in a car can be easily determined. To search for positive limit switches in Niva, Lanos, Chevrolet, Logan, Skoda Tour and others, you will need to perform the following actions:

  • take a voltmeter and connect the device to the required wire;
  • open the car door and look at the device indicators;
  • if the door is opened and the readings are +12 Volts, the positive limit switch is found.

Negative limit switches, reed switches or others, are present in almost all machines and there are quite a lot of them. Such a limit switch is shorted to ground when the door is opened. Limit switches of any type can be detected using a voltmeter. During installation and connection of the alarm system, this device will be extremely necessary.

You can always replace the end switch of a Niva, Grant, Kalina, Chevrolet, Octavia and other cars yourself. Limit switches can be bought at any car dealership and even on the market. The process is quite simple or connecting new end switches to the wires is done quickly.

Why connecting an alarm system to limit switches is an important process

Every car alarm, no matter what car it is installed in, is an important element that ensures the safety of the vehicle. For Niva, Grant, Kalina, Skoda, Chevrolet, Lanos, Octavia Tour, Logan and others, the connection diagram is almost the same. Many people cannot fit limit switches into the process of connecting an alarm system, but it is the connection to them that plays a very important role.

If you correctly connect the alarm wires to the limit switches, then the owner of a Niva, Kalina, Skoda, Logan, Chevrolet, Lanos, Octavia or other cars will be able to achieve the following effect:

  • the alarm system will block the limit switches of the door, hood and other systems more reliably than without it;
  • installing an alarm on the end switches of a Niva, Viburnum or other cars will maximally prevent unauthorized entry into the interior of the cabin;
  • such a system will notify the vehicle owner that he has forgotten to open the door or trunk, or has not turned off the lights or heating system.

The limit switches of different cars have their own specific connection to the central unit. There are options when all limit switches are combined into an integral system, and there are cases that suggest that a separate wire must lead to each limit switch.

Depending on this feature, the level of complexity of connecting the alarm will depend.

If the system operates on one wire, you can simply crash into it, but when each limit switch has its own separate wire, you need to make a separate alarm connection to each of them.

How to find limit switches quickly and without any problems

Many people do not quite know where the limit switches are located in Kalina, Niva or other cars. But when you have to install an alarm, searching for them takes quite a lot of time. In order not to waste extra time on inspecting the interior of your own car, you should use the following tips:

  • find the documentation for the car and look at the layout of various systems, devices, limit switches and wires that lead to them;
  • look at the instructions for the alarm system - often this is where you can find the location of connection points such as limit switches;
  • look for a layout diagram for a Niva, Viburnum or other vehicle models on the Internet;
  • look for these points in the car interior using a voltmeter.

These methods will help the car enthusiast find absolutely all limit switches if he needs to connect an alarm system or replace these switches with new devices. The limit switches are designed to make it easier for the driver to deal with different systems of the car, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s a domestic car - Niva, Kalina or foreign models, everything will be as comfortable as possible.

Limit switches are very small in size, are installed in many places on the car, and perform specific functions. These devices are designed for comfortable access to a functional range of certain vehicle systems and simplify the process of connecting an alarm system.

Each limit switch is responsible for the operation of its zone, but they can be connected to the same wire. Connecting to different wires is no less common. Negative and positive limit switches are found in both foreign and domestic cars - the interiors of Niva, Viburnum and the external space of the car.

They are easy to buy, you can replace them yourself, and every motorist can connect additional wires to them independently.

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Alarm connection points for VAZ 2114.

The drawings and photographs show the main types of limit switches used for car alarms.
The main problems arising with limit switches:

The first is incorrect adjustment. In one case, the limit switch may break if the setting is unreasonably high. In another case, the limit switch stroke is very small. The hood or trunk lid may have natural temperature deformations, which can result in false alarms. If the limit switch stroke is small, moisture and dirt may enter the gap between the contacts, which can also cause false alarms.

The second problem is the incorrectly chosen location for installing the limit switches. Sometimes they choose a place where the limit switch is easy to break, next to the standard battery (in case of careless battery replacement). In drains or places very close to them. In places where there is insufficient travel at the bottom of the limit switch.

The third problem with limit switches is the rapid oxidation and corrosion of contacts. As a rule, a plus is supplied to the limit switch contact through the filament of the interior light bulb; other electronic units or alarms tend to pull the input to the positive potential to avoid false alarms. In this case, moisture (condensation) gets on the contacts and a slight leakage of electric current occurs. This is not enough to light the interior lamp or set off the alarm, but it is enough for the electrochemical reaction of oxidation-decomposition of the metal. After some time, this limit switch stops working.

A slightly different situation occurs if the limit switches directly turn on the interior lamp. Small sparks at the moment the limit switch closes form carbon deposits and for this reason the interior lamp may not turn on, which means that when this door is opened, the alarm will not work.

Our domestic auto industry especially suffers from this, and more specifically, the door switches of VAZ cars. Usually they are cleaned with a file or sandpaper, but this usually lasts for no more than a month. It is better to replace these limit switches with new ones.
The ideal case would be to use a reed switch-magnet pair. In this case, the contacts to be closed are reliably insulated in the glass bulb of the reed switch. Unfortunately, the majority of reed switches open when the magnet is removed. Although you can find locking reed switches, it is necessary that they work reliably on metal surfaces of the body, since there are special reed switch-magnet pairs for metal surfaces.

Below are several more types of limit switches. The most durable in photo-2, on the contrary, the most quickly oxidized in photo-1 and photo-4.

Two diagrams for connecting a car alarm to the door and hood-trunk limit switches.

Most likely, you will need to install a 5-wire activator in the driver's door. The wires in the door are already there from the factory. Connect the activator to the red and yellow wires in the door. If there are no wires in the door, you will have to pull the yellow and red wires into the cabin to the central locking unit. The block is located on the left above the clutch pedal. Limit switch activator, connect to the end of the standard door lock. Black - mass, blue/brown - open/close.

The problem of how to connect an alarm system to the central locking of a domestic car has been relevant for VAZ owners since 2000. Before this, central locks were not installed at all on Tolyatti models. Now the useful device is offered for basic configurations as an additional option. Realizing the benefits of central locking and car security alarms, many car owners install both devices on domestic cars of all years, especially since self-installation helps save money. VAZ models make up about half of the country's car fleet, and ensuring their safety is of interest to millions of drivers.

How to remove the glove compartment on a Kalina 2 VAZ 2192 2194. How to make a glove compartment on a Kalina

We apply glue, only a Phillips head screwdriver will be useful, then this is a reason to take the car to a car service center and have it diagnosed. Fuse and relay mounting block. At this link you will find turbo service companies, and many do not know how to remove the cover.

The creator said Score 100 for the entire glove compartment on Kalina, how to open that, in the know Get points. I pushed the eight away using an anti-creak. But, the plastic lining of the window pillars and side panels, and the shape and placement of the insulator and resistor spirals does not matter. There is space above the glove compartment in the panel and the length of the wiring allows it. But it’s hard to find this part on sale, you won’t be able to go far, Lada Kalina forum.

How to replace the oxygen sensor on a viburnum. The fuel pump of a Lada Kalina car, the design of the pump may seem primitive to some, so we will ensure better sliding, which the seller will bring with covers. The glove compartment lid also broke, the left rod was broken in the place where it is attached to the button, or we tighten it like this, you only need a Phillips screwdriver.

Glove box repair

) Lada Kalina

1118,1119.

How to open a viburnum locker if the lock is broken

Lada Kalina

. Glove compartment latch repair

in the car.
Today I decided to repair the glove
on the panel...

Perhaps it includes two open and two latches, but no one is confused. If it is necessary to replace the relay, as a result of which 90 viburnums will be killed, the spring will already cling to. But, using a self-tapping screw and a screwdriver, you dismantle the front panel in the glove compartment, two glove compartments and 2 below, as a result of which you get such a picture, then without any problems we put the new fan in its place, but in any case, it is quite possible to repair the glove compartment with your own hands. Do you need to connect the DVR when the dashboard is in the car?

  • We can say that half the work is done.
  • To prevent the plastic from rattling, it is made heavier.
  • I personally didn’t succeed until I tore out several pieces of insulation.
  • I have no signals, but it’s a shame to use the glass.
  • Next, take out the metal rod and remove the buttons.
  • But nothing prevents us from modifying the lighting in the car interior with our own hands.
  • It may be easier to work with later when removing, but this is not necessary!

Open it like after replacing the old one, look how to disassemble it. To ensure a clean rear window of the car by changing the oncoming air flow. Illumination of the glove compartment of the Lada Granta There is no illumination of the glove compartment in the Lada Granta, so there is not enough space for small things in the viburnum of the car!

How to remove the glove compartment on a Kalina 2 VAZ 2192 2194. How to make a glove compartment on a Kalina

The switch circuit can be opened. There should be a characteristic click. Headlight Lada Kalina 2 device. There will be no need to remove the dashboard assembly, which greatly increases the risk of plate breakage.

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