Lada Kalina immobilizer does not recognize the key – Auto Magazine


Every car owner is concerned about the safety and security of their car. This is especially true for those who are forced to leave their “iron horse” for a long time in public places, as well as in the courtyards of residential buildings. The desire to protect your property is understandable, given the fairly high crime rate. Modern cars are produced with a security system straight from the assembly line. Most often we are talking about the central locking.

It is very convenient and practical, so it remains unrivaled when choosing a security system for little money. Using this device, you can close and open all doors, including the trunk lid, automatically. All this is done both directly by turning the key in the lock, and from the remote control.

Features of standard central locking

AvtoVAZ even installs a central locking system with a remote control from the factory even on the most budget versions of Kalina. However, such a system is clearly not enough to effectively protect a car from theft. The Lada Kalina central locking system is also controlled from the interior. On the driver's door next to the power window control unit there is a central locking button. The ignition key simultaneously functions as a remote control. On its plastic part there are three buttons, the purpose of which is as follows:

  1. Unlocking. One press – the actuator should click and the driver’s door will open, two presses – the rest.
  2. Closing. To close all doors at the same time, just press the button once.
  3. Opening the trunk. Not available on all trim levels, as a trunk lock actuator is required. You can also install the electric drive yourself.

Kalina also provides another important function - rear door locking, as it is also called - child protection. To activate it, you need to use the key to turn the red chip to the right near the lock from the outside. After this, opening the rear doors from the passenger compartment is not possible, so that children cannot accidentally fall out while driving.

The central locking system does not have anti-theft functions; there are no shock sensors. All that the central lock can do is signal an unauthorized opening.

How to select a lock for a Lada Kalina

There are two ways to replace the ignition switch and this leads to two selection methods:

  1. Officially, using the key tag.
  2. Replacement of all car locks.

When a car owner buys a car, he is given two keys with a special metal tag with a number. Using this number you can restore the factory key or even the ignition switch. This is the official replacement method and can be done at your dealer. It is less expensive and simpler.

Another option is that both keys or the tag are lost. In this case, you will need a new set of locks with new keys. This method is more expensive and will require additional replacements of larvae.

If you have chosen the second method, then it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the list of manufacturers of ignition lock and door lock kits for the Lada Kalina:

Manufacturervendor code
Original – Lada1118-6105006
Grand RialGR04002
Aroki132180
TSN116070
NIKA731183

After selecting the desired lock, you can begin replacing faulty elements.

Basic central locking malfunctions and methods for eliminating them

There are times when, after pressing the door unlock button, you may encounter a lack of response to the command. The lock cannot be removed and the central lock does not respond to button presses on the remote control. Conclusion - Kalina's central locking does not work.

You can gain access to the interior using a key, but in this case the sound alarm is not deactivated, and everyone will know when the car is opened. If the system does not respond to commands from the remote control, there may not be many problems: either the batteries in the remote control are low and need to be replaced, or synchronization is lost. In this case, it is not repair that is required, but restoration of the system's functionality.

Frequently asked questions when the immobilizer does not work

In conclusion, we offer answers to the most common questions that arise if the immobilizer does not allow you to start, does not see the key, sees it only once, or all the keys with the chip are lost/broken.

Restoring synchronization

Synchronization may be lost if there is a short-term (from 6 seconds) lack of power to the microcircuit in the key fob. In this case, desynchronization may actually occur, i.e. the connection between the remote control and the control unit of the central locking Lada Kalina is lost. According to the operating manual, if such situations arise, it is necessary to register the key fob again, entering data about it into the memory of the central locking system. You should immediately take into account that the procedure is far from the simplest and most understandable, and you also need a special training key. You can try to restore synchronization as follows:

  1. Turn the ignition switch with the key that requires synchronization.
  2. Wait 6 seconds.
  3. After the immobilizer lamp stops flashing, the ignition can be turned off.

After 10 seconds, the same key is used to start the car again. If the immobilizer warning light does not blink, it means that synchronization has been restored.

At first glance, nothing complicated, but this method does not help in all cases. If there is a training key, but there is no previously registered key, then the ignition is first turned on, then turned off. After the immobilizer warning lamp stops flashing, within six seconds the key is moved to the second position of the ignition switch (starter).

How to understand that the immobilizer is not working?

The main signs that the immobilizer does not recognize the key:

  • the car indicator with a key or lock lights up or blinks on the dashboard;
  • the on-board computer gives errors like “immobilizer, key, secret, etc.;
  • When you turn on the ignition, you can’t hear the buzzing of the fuel pump;
  • the starter does not work;
  • The starter works, but the mixture does not ignite.

The reasons why the immobilizer does not see the key are divided into two categories:

  • hardware - failure of the key chip or the unit itself, broken wiring, dead battery;
  • software - the firmware has crashed, the key has become untied from the unit, an immobilizer glitch.

If there are no direct indications of a failure of the anti-theft lock, an independent check of the immobilizer should be carried out after eliminating other possible causes of problems. It is necessary to make sure that the fuel pump, starter relay, lock contact group and battery are in good condition.

Conversion into a single door unlocking impulse

The controller of the central locking control unit opens the doors in two stages: one press of the button unlocks the driver’s door, two presses – all others. But you can make it so that everything unlocks after one press. This is very easy to do:

  1. Turn on the ignition.
  2. Press the unlock and close buttons at the same time and hold for at least five seconds.
  3. After the beep, the key can be released.

When the buzzer sounds once, the system notifies you of the transition to a new mode. Returning everything to the way it was before is just as easy. To do this, repeat the above procedure and wait for the double buzzer to confirm the transition to the default settings.

Disabling the immobilizer yourself

The procedure for turning off the blocker is performed differently depending on the microprocessor model.

Bosch M7 4 block

To remove the immobilizer you will need:

  • PC or laptop on which the Winflashecu v.1.14 utility is pre-installed;
  • cable with K-Line adapter, a universal version is suitable;
  • a program with which the microprocessor can work with the blocker disabled;
  • several cables of different lengths.

The shutdown procedure is performed as follows:

  1. The wires with terminals are disconnected from the battery. You also need to disconnect the connectors with cables from the ECM, which is located in the engine compartment of the car. To perform this task, remove the top plastic cover, then remove the flat pad retainer. We are talking about a large connector; the small plug can be left alone.
  2. Then the wire is installed in contacts A4 and B2 from the block side. These conductors are used to provide additional 12 volt power. To perform the task, they must be connected to the battery using an intermediate switch. The plug is installed in place and the lock is secured.
  3. The K-Line adapter with a wire is installed in the diagnostic connector, which is located in the passenger compartment. To gain access to it, you need to remove the plastic cover located on the center console.
  4. In the PC settings, the information transfer speed is set to 38400 bps.
  5. The previously installed program starts. In the settings window, you need to specify the port number, the set speed, as well as the type of microprocessor immo module. The message “No connection” should be lit in the lower corner. Then power is supplied to contact elements A4 and B2. The ignition is activated, as a result of which the inscription “No communication” will change to “Communication with the ECU”. At the same time, the operation start key will become active.
  6. Data is read from EEPROM, this is the software of the control unit. This information must be saved on your PC.
  7. Then new software is selected on the computer and loaded into the microprocessor memory. To do this, click the “Write EEPROM” button. The loading procedure begins and must be completed. After this, the utility on the computer is closed, and the ignition in the car is turned off.
  8. The additional power cables to the connector pins are disconnected. You need to make sure that the immobilizer was removed. When starting the engine without a chip, the indicator on the control panel will light up for a few seconds and disappear.

Bosch block 7 9 7

To disable the immobilizer on Kalina with such an ECU, it will have to be modified. To do this, you need to resolder one resistor element. It is recommended to entrust the procedure to specialists. When the task is completed, the device is flashed.

User Vlad V spoke about independently disabling the engine blocker in cars equipped with a 7 9 7 block.

Block January 7 2

To complete the task you will need:

  • K-Line adapter, for example, VM9213;
  • PC or laptop on which the ChipLoader 1.97.7 utility is installed;
  • a soldering iron with a power of 25-40 W, as well as rosin and tin;
  • several cables with a switch;
  • resistor element, its resistance will be 3.6-5 kOhm;
  • connectors for connecting cables to the microprocessor;
  • 12 volt battery.

The shutdown procedure is as follows:

  1. The power supply to the machine's electrical network is turned off; to do this, the terminal with the clamp is disconnected from the battery. The microprocessor module is being dismantled.
  2. The control unit housing is wrapped with an insulator. The circuit is assembled in accordance with the photo.
  3. Then the adapter is connected to a PC or laptop.
  4. Using the switch, you need to simulate the operation of the ignition system.
  5. The utility is launched on the computer. After it starts, it is necessary to establish a connection with the microprocessor module.
  6. The factory firmware is being read from the control unit. The information is saved to the PC hard drive. After successful reading, click the “Delete immo” button. You must wait until a confirmation window with the text “Blocker removed” appears on the computer screen.
  7. The program closes and the ignition is deactivated using the switch.
  8. Before installing a microprocessor on a car, you need to turn off the pulse from the engine blocker. With the connector removed, using a piece of wire, it is necessary to close the contact elements numbered 9 and 18.

Photo gallery

People's Councils

If you are confident that the key fob is working, but the central locking does not work or does not work correctly, then you can try the following:

  1. Replace the central locking fuse Kalina F22, which protects the controller's power circuit (located in the mounting block).
  2. The power supply circuit to the actuator of one of the doors may be broken. In this case, you need to open it 90° and find a broken contact or connector.
  3. It happens that the reason is that the key fob screw is too tight. You need to weaken it, and the functions will be restored.

In each specific case, atypical malfunctions may occur, so the above list is not exhaustive.

What's the result?

Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that the immobilizer on the Lada Kalina, in case of malfunctions in its operation, should be turned off and turned on again. Such a “reboot” in some cases allows you to start the engine and continue to operate the car without problems.

If it is necessary to completely remove the immobilizer, then certain manipulations with the unit will be required, which are not recommended to be performed independently. In this case, you need to contact experienced specialists who specialize in repairing such devices.

Finally, we note that in addition to the standard immo, starting the engine can also be blocked by a car alarm. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the source of the problem, and then select the most appropriate methods to eliminate any failures or malfunctions of the alarm system, immobilizer (both standard and third-party) or the entire security system in the car.

Installation and connection of central locking depending on the modification of Kalina

The central locking is controlled by an electronic unit, from which wires go to the door actuators. A wire also goes from the block to the driver's door microphone, which is located inside the actuator. When connecting, installing or repairing the central locking system after dismantling the left door trim, you need to find the cable from the drive to the 7-pin connector.

Depending on the configuration (“Norma”, “Standard”, “Lux”) under the casing you can see:

  1. Six wires suitable for the connector (drive and two microphones).
  2. Unconnected wires from the drive.
  3. Lack of wires that should be in the connector on pins 4/6.

If there is an alarm, then wires 2/7 must be connected to the central locking unit. If the package does not include connecting all the actuators, then you need to do this yourself by connecting the missing ones to the control unit. To do this, you can use a two-wire cable that runs from the door to the central locking control unit. The electrical circuit of one or another modification of Kalina will help with the work.

Central lock connection diagram

Immobilizer faults

The design of the immobilizer is such that a problem in any unit leads to the inoperability of the entire device. However, there are several common faults.

  • Poor electrical contact between antenna and receiver. In this case, the immobilizer is triggered extremely rarely; there are cases when the car was able to start only the 20th time. This malfunction occurs due to shaking, poor manufacturing quality of the antenna and receiver connectors, oxidation of contacts, dirt and grease on the contacts (if the antenna was connected to the receiver with dirty hands). Moreover, the contact does not disappear immediately, but after some time, depending on many factors. To eliminate this malfunction, it is necessary to disconnect the antenna from the receiver, turn off the power to the antenna, treat all contacts with a product that removes oxides and contaminants, and, if necessary, tighten the antenna contacts.

  • Poor electrical contact on one of the wiring connectors . It manifests itself in the same way as contamination of the antenna connector. For repairs, it is necessary to remove all immobilizer wiring, check the condition of the wiring connectors and each unit. If necessary, clean them with a special product and tighten them.
  • Controller failure due to low battery voltage . This malfunction occurs after the car has spent 2 - 3 months in a parking lot with the headlights off, or 2 - 3 hours in a parking lot with the headlights on. To restore operation of the controller, you must disconnect the battery for at least 20 minutes. In 4 out of 5 cases, connecting a fully charged battery restores the immobilizer. If the operation of the immobilizer is not restored, serious diagnostics of the controller is necessary. You may need to re-register the key or change the controller firmware.
  • The immobilizer malfunctions due to the key with the chip being in a strong magnetic field. A strong magnetic field that occurs near powerful transformers, operating welding machines and other devices can disrupt the operation of the key, after which the chip will need to be replaced or repaired.

Warning. When planning to repair or check the immobilizer, consider the following. If you don't know how to do a particular operation, don't do it. An immobilizer is a complex and delicate device that is difficult to tolerate any inept intervention.

Connecting the central locking system for the “Lux” package

This method is also relevant for Lada Kalina Cross in the “Norma” configuration. “Lux” and configurations with additional options imply the presence of an armrest with installed central locking buttons and electric windows. From the button contacts you need to take the one that receives power after pressing, and stretch the wire to the alarm module. To connect, you can use the following diagram:

Connecting the central locking system for the “Lux” package

This connection option is suitable specifically for the “Lux” configuration, since it has a standard alarm system, and the central locking can be installed independently if for some reason it fails.

When connecting the central locking system, all work must be carried out with the vehicle's electrical equipment de-energized. Wires must be laid so that they do not touch metal. If this is not possible, then a tube is installed to protect the cable from breakage and other negative factors.

Immobilizer device

The design of immobilizers implies not only the presence of keys, but also other elements. Moreover, if at least one of the components fails, this can lead to the inoperability of the system as a whole.

Basic elements of immo:

  • directly the key, designed to transmit a pulse from the transmitter built into it;
  • an antenna adapter (or several) that performs the function of converting electromagnetic pulses into electrical ones;
  • a receiving device designed to convert pulses into a format that the controller can read;
  • the controller itself, in fact, is the main component of the immo;
  • various actuators that block and unlock the power unit;
  • electrical circuits through which power is transmitted and pulses are transmitted between modules.

Photo gallery “Main elements of the immo system”

Connecting the central locking system in the “Norma” configuration

In inexpensive trim levels, there is no button to close the doors from the interior at all. In this case, the connection is made according to the following scheme:

Connecting the central locking system in the “Norma” configuration

Unlike the connection diagrams for the central locking system in the Kalina “Lux” configuration, there are no resistors and the “+” voltage is not used. But in this case, when you press the close button, all doors will be locked, and when you press the unlock button, only the driver's door will open. The options considered are among the simplest; more complex schemes require special skills, so it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals at a service station.

Causes of malfunction

Let us list the reasons for the occurrence of such a phenomenon as a non-working starter and a flashing immobilizer. First, it’s worth noting that it all depends on the intensity of the blinking, but let’s take the most common concept. So, the reasons for the malfunction:

    The most deplorable and fatal option is the ECU burned out . This usually happens because liquid has gotten into it.

Inspection of the ECU on Kalina

It is best to determine all these reasons at a car service center, since this is not often possible with your own hands.

ECU burned out

The insides of the ECU block are filled with antifreeze, we are trying to fix it

If the ECU burns out, then you can “dry your oars” because the owner ended up with a substantial amount of money. Often, this happens due to the fault of the motorists themselves, who try to install additions to the car themselves, or simply spill coffee on the dashboard.

This malfunction can be treated by replacing the control unit and updating the firmware. The procedure is expensive, so it is recommended to treat the car carefully, especially inside.

The most important problem is that there is a design flaw: the ENGINE CONTROL UNIT is installed in such a way that if the hood seal leaks, it floods with water. And the block “comes to a halt.”

To prevent this from happening, we recommend that you move the engine control unit to another location, higher, under the panel.

Pulse programming

When connecting a central lock, it is not enough to perform all the steps in the correct sequence; you also need to select the required pulse duration for the locks to operate. If it is too large, the actuators will overheat; if it is insufficient, it will not be enough to open and close. In the luxury configuration, all electronics usually “fall asleep” after 15 minutes of inactivity. To awaken it, an additional impulse is needed.

Central locking is a simple device, but it can secure your car from criminals much more effectively than a police cap on the passenger seat. The centralized door lock system is the most convenient way to quickly open and close them. If this security system is supplemented with a good car alarm, this will prevent you from ending up in a situation where your car is stolen or damaged.

Having tried to open the car using the key fob, one fine day you may find that the lock continues to operate and the car does not respond to key presses. In such a situation, it will be possible to unlock one door or even the central locking system by simply unlocking the driver's door lock. Only the security mode is not deactivated. The central locking, in turn, may not respond to commands for two reasons - the battery in the key fob is dead or synchronization is lost. How to solve these problems is discussed further.

Training procedure:

Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:

  • the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
  • the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
  • a new system password is written into the training key;
  • all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
  • The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.

The training procedure is applied in the following cases:

  • activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
  • erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
  • changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
  • remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.

Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.

Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place.

Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.

Restoring synchronization

Let's say the keys on the key fob were pressed 1000 times outside the system's coverage area. Then synchronization between the following devices is lost: the key fob and the central locking control module. If the power to the chip installed in the key fob is turned off even for a short time, this will also cause a loss of synchronization. The maximum time interval, as we found out from the reviews, is 6 seconds.


VAZ key fob in two versions

The instruction manual attached to the cars of the Granta and Kalina-2 family says the following: in case of loss of synchronization, the key fob is re-registered, that is, data about it is entered into the system memory. The recording procedure is quite complex, and to complete it you need a “learning key”. If synchronization is indeed lost, try this:

  1. Turn on the ignition with the key you want to synchronize;
  2. Wait 6 seconds;
  3. The immobilizer lamp should start flashing, and then the ignition is turned off;
  4. After 10 seconds the ignition is turned on again. If the immobilizer lamp does not blink, it means that synchronization has been restored.

Everything looks simple, but the specified sequence will not necessarily be effective.

If there is a “training key”, but there is not a single registered key with buttons, you can start the engine like this: turn the ignition on and off, the lamp begins to flash, then within 6 seconds the key is moved to mark II (starter).

Key programming for Kalina, Priora, Grants, UAZ and Niva

The remote control key for Lada Priora, Kalina, Granta, UAZ Patriot, Niva is programmed on the car without any devices. To do this, you need to have a so-called training key in your hands - which has a red pip on the head of the key. Used in cars with APS-6 unit.

The remote control key looks like this:

IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT!!!

We work and consult ONLY in Nizhny Novgorod. If you are from another region, do not write or call us - we will not answer. We do not treat keys or cars from other cities: contact specialists in your region.

Purpose:

The remote control is designed for remote control of locking and unlocking of car doors, turning on and off super-locking doors, turning on and off the alarm system, raising the windows, controlling the locking of the tailgate (trunk lid), and also as a coded electronic key for the APS-6 immobilizer

The remote control is mounted on the blade of the ignition switch key type 1118-3704010 and is designed to operate:

1)via radio channel:

  • with electrical package control unit 1118-6512010
  • with driver's door module 1118-3763080, 2170-3763080-00/10

2) via transponder channel:

  • with immobilizer control unit APS-6 2123-3840010-ХХ;
  • with immobilizer control unit APS-6.1 1118-3840010-ХХ;
  • with electrical package controller-2170-3763040.

Operating instructions:

For the remote control to work as part of a car, it must be activated (trained) using the training (red) code key from the immobilizer. After training, the remote control is also a working code key for the immobilizer and is used to remove the engine start ban. The system can be trained and operated simultaneously with two remote controls .

Training procedure:

Carrying out the training procedure leads to the following consequences:

  • the engine control controller activates the anti-theft function if it has not been activated;
  • the system changes its password to a new one chosen at random;
  • a new system password is written into the training key;
  • all remote controls that were previously trained are erased from memory;
  • The codes of those remote control units that were trained in this training procedure are stored in memory.

The training procedure is applied in the following cases:

  • activating the anti-theft function in the controller (for example, in a new car or replacing a faulty controller);
  • erasing old and training new remote controls if lost;
  • changing the system password if the owner admits that his system password may have been read (for example, when selling a car from one owner to another)
  • remote control training when replacing a faulty immobilizer with a new one.

Only new remote control units or those that were previously trained using the training key used in this training procedure can be trained. It is impossible to learn a remote control key from another car into your car.

Please note: Due to the importance of the training key, it is not recommended to use it for everyday use and should be kept in a safe place.

Before starting the training procedure, fill the car with at least 10 liters of gasoline so as not to get confused by the squeaks.

Key programming instructions for Lada Kalina, Priora, Granta, etc.

  1. Close all doors. Turn on the ignition with the training key and wait in the on state for at least 6 seconds.
  2. Turn off the ignition.
    The indicator light in the warning lamp unit should flash quickly (at a frequency of 5 times per second) while the learning procedure is being carried out correctly. If the lamp stops flashing quickly, it indicates an incorrect operation, an out-of-time interval, or a malfunction. Remove the training key from the ignition switch.
  3. While the warning lamp is flashing (about 6 seconds), insert the remote control and turn on the ignition. The immobilizer buzzer should emit three beeps.
    If the buzzer does not sound and the indicator has stopped flashing, this means: - the time interval of 6 seconds has been exceeded and it is necessary to repeat the learning procedure, starting from step 1;

    -immobilizer is faulty

  4. Wait 6 seconds for the buzzer to emit two more beeps and turn off the ignition.
  5. If it is necessary to train the second remote control, then you should perform steps 3...4 again, using the second learning remote control to turn on the ignition. If not, continue from step 6.
  6. After turning off the ignition for no more than 6 seconds, while the indicator is flashing, remove the remote control, insert the learning key and turn on the ignition. The buzzer should beep three times. Wait 6 seconds until the buzzer beeps two more times.
  7. Turn off the ignition without removing the training key, wait 6 seconds until the buzzer sounds a single sound signal. The indicator should flash twice as fast. If the sound signal does not sound and the flashing indicator stops, you should return to step 1 and repeat the learning procedure. If a repeated failure occurs when performing step 7, this means that the ECM was previously trained with a different key, in which case the controller should be replaced.
  8. After the buzzer gives a single sound signal, no later than 3 seconds, turn on the ignition for 2...3 seconds and then turn it off (after turning on the ignition, the buzzer will sound three times and the indicator will stop flashing). The hazard warning lights should flash and the car horn should beep.
  9. Remove the learning key.
    Wait with the ignition off for at least 10 seconds. Insert the working key and turn on the ignition. Wait 6 seconds, if the indicator does not flash, test start the engine, the engine should start. If the indicator flashes, turn off the ignition and wait at least 10 seconds. Turn on the ignition. The warning light should not flash and the engine should start. If, after turning on the ignition, after 6 seconds the indicator lights up with a constant light, then the learning procedure must be repeated, starting from step 1.

Replacing the remote control battery

The remote control is equipped with a CR2032 lithium battery, the initial supply voltage of which is 3 V. If the remote control supply voltage is within normal limits, then each time you press any button on the remote control, the indicator lights up with a short flash. If, when you press any button on the remote control, the indicator lights up with two short flashes or does not light up at all, then you should replace the battery with a new one.

To do this, you need to unscrew the screw from the side of the case opposite the control buttons, separate the halves of the case, remove the board from the case, replace the battery with a new one, observing the polarity; insert the board into the case; snap the housing halves together and tighten the screw.

Resynchronization of remote control codes

In cases where the remote control buttons are pressed outside the range of the radio channel, the “floating” code counter in the remote control goes out of synchronization with the counter in the system control unit. If the number of button presses outside the signal reception area of ​​the system exceeds 1000, the system stops responding to remote control commands. In this case, the remote control training procedure should be repeated.

Updated August 01, 2013

Due to the increasing number of cases of lost training (master) keys for car owners of Kalina, Priora, Grant, Niva-Chevrolet, we are introducing a new type of service: registration of working keys in these cars, without a master key!

Usually in such cases, it is necessary to change a set of blocks: ECU (electronic engine control unit), APS unit, glass control unit, ignition switch complete with door cylinders and new keys, etc.

Now in our company you can register a working key with buttons without a training key, and for an additional fee you can receive a new training (red) key for your car. For this procedure, you need to come by car and leave it while the work is being carried out. The work includes dismantling the necessary units (ECU, APS, etc.) from the car, programmatically changing data, installing units on the car and registering keys. We emphasize that a key registered in this way will cost more than registering a remote control yourself if you have a training key, but naturally cheaper than buying and replacing a set of blocks with new ones.

Update January 05, 2014

Attention! It is now possible to make a duplicate chip for autostart using a working key with remote control buttons! A master or training key is not required. The chip obtained in this way can be used both for installation in the immobilizer bypass unit to implement autostart, and for everyday use, starting the engine of Lada Kalina, Priora, Niva-Chevrolet cars.

Such a duplicate is more expensive than a regular chip, which can be registered using a master key, but this is a real solution in cases where the master (training) key is lost. To create a duplicate, you need a car, a working key with remote control buttons (and it doesn’t even matter if it is partially faulty, for example, the buttons don’t work, etc., the main thing is that the ignition key starts the engine).

The entire copying procedure takes 10-15 minutes. Contact us by phone in contacts.

Source: https://dvernoydoktor.ru/blog/programmirovanie-klyucha-pdu-dlya-vaz-kalina-priora-granta-uaz-patriot-niva

Switching the central locking system to single unlocking pulse mode

The controller unlocks the doors in two steps: a single press on the “Open” button unlocks the driver’s door, and you can completely unlock the door with a second press. But according to AvtoVAZ instructions, it is possible to reconfigure the system, and then disabling the lock will be done in one step. The setup procedure looks elementary:

  1. The ignition is turned on with a key equipped with control keys;
  2. Press the “Open” and “Close” buttons on the key and hold them for 5 seconds;
  3. The buzzer should sound and then the keys will be released.

If a single signal sounds, it means that the system has entered the required mode. The question remains how to return it to its previous mode of operation. Perform the sequence discussed here a second time. At the end, a double signal will sound, which will confirm the transition to the previous settings.

The single pulse mode is characterized by the following. If the driver's door is opened with a key rather than using a key fob, the controller unlocks each door. However, the effect of pressing the “Open” button will look the same.

Video

A video from the author Dmitriy Epishev demonstrates desoldering the microcircuit and resetting the data on the programmer.

All cars are equipped with standard anti-theft devices - immobilizers. In domestic cars, due to the poor quality of the system, emergency situations often arise. The immobilizer indicator lights up, the anti-theft system blocks the ignition and fuel supply - the vehicle does not start. You need to know how to disable the immobilizer on a Priora if the anti-theft system malfunctions.

Replacing a dead battery

Let's say the LED located on the key fob body flashes quickly when you press any key. There will be no reactions from the central locker in this case. All of the above suggests that it is time to replace the battery. Details are discussed below.

If the LED flashes when you press the key, you can still start the car with that key. The immobilizer can easily read the code written into the key fob chip, and synchronization will not be lost either. But it is recommended to hurry up when replacing the battery.

So, to disassemble the key fob body, you will need a Phillips screwdriver. Having unscrewed one self-tapping screw, use a knife to separate the halves that make up the housing structure. The result looks like this:

Once the circuit board is removed, look at which battery is being used. The first characters of the designation are the letters “CR”. Then comes a set of numbers.

When making a replacement, try not to leave the contacts free for more than 6 seconds. Otherwise, there is a high probability of loss of synchronization.

It can be summarized that the replacement operation is performed in three steps:

  1. We disassemble the case, determine the type of battery;
  2. We purchase the same battery;
  3. We are making a replacement.

Care must be maintained at every step.

Instructions for activating immo

System programming is usually carried out by dealers when selling cars.

The blocker training procedure is carried out differently in Kalina cars of the first and second versions.

Activation on Kalina-1

To enable the immobilizer yourself, perform the following steps:

  1. A training master key is prepared and equipped with a red mark. It must be installed in the lock.
  2. The key is then turned in the switch to the ignition activation position. As a result of the blocker being disabled, after 6 seconds the indicator light on the control panel will turn on. If the light does not light up, this indicates that the system is active. Accordingly, the blocker is trained and its activation is not required.
  3. Then the ignition is turned off, and the immo indicator light will operate in rapid flash mode. The car owner has six seconds to install a regular key in the switch.
  4. Then the lock cylinder is turned until the ignition is turned on. If the actions are performed correctly, the beepper will turn on three times. If the buzzer does not sound, the reason may be that the time interval allocated for installing and turning the key has been exceeded. Perhaps the problem lies in the engine blocker itself.
  5. Then you need to wait about six seconds, the beepper will emit another double signal. Afterwards the ignition in the car is turned off. The key is removed from the lock.
  6. Now the car owner has another 6 seconds during which he must activate the ignition with the master key. The immo indicator diode will blink on the control panel of the car.
  7. After activation, the beepper will emit a triple beep; until the next series, which consists of two separate beeps, you need to wait 2-3 seconds.
  8. The ignition is turned off, but the key does not need to be removed from the lock. After a certain time interval, the beeper will give another signal, and the indicator on the control panel will blink at high frequency. About 15 seconds will pass between deactivation of the ignition and the light switching to accelerated mode. But the time interval is also determined by the model of the microprocessor unit.
  9. Then within 10 seconds you need to quickly turn on the ignition for 3 seconds. and turn it off.
  10. The machine's light alarm will give three signals, this indicates the successful completion of the programming procedure.
  11. Then you need to wait until the indicator light on the control panel stops blinking completely. The master key is removed from the ignition switch.

Collection of “people's councils”

If the central locking is not working properly, but you know that the key fobs are fully functional, you can try the following steps:

  1. The power supply circuit of the central locking controller is protected by fuse F22. This element can be replaced or simply disabled and then installed back;
  2. Let's say no current flows to the actuator of one door. Then find the terminal block by opening the door 90 degrees. In order for the broken contact to be restored, sometimes it is enough to disconnect the mating connector and connect it again;
  3. Even if the key fob is working, check whether the self-tapping screw is screwed in all the way. It is recommended to loosen the fastening a little, and then everything works reliably.

To follow “tip number 1”, look for the fifth fuse from the top in the mounting block. The rating of this element is 15 Amperes.


Here is the correct fuse

So, I’ll start with the fact that about a year ago the first problems appeared with the standard alarm key fob on my Kalina. And this manifested itself in the following way: every now and then the buttons began to work, the doors did not open at the first press, and sometimes you just had to stand for five minutes at the car while you opened the central locking with the button.

In general, after disassembling the key fob, it turned out that some element inside it bounced off the microcircuit (I don’t know what to call it, I’m not involved in electronics). In general, this was precisely the reason for the key’s operation in such a country.

At first I ignored all this and continued to drive like this, and now instead of pressing the key fob button, I had to constantly insert the key into the door lock, which is not very convenient. This went on for more than six months, until the time of cold weather arrived. I think there’s no need to talk once again about the delights of the situation when the door lock, or rather its cylinder, freezes. And that is why it was decided to buy a new key fob for Kalina’s standard key and carry out the training procedure for it.

Is it necessary to register a key in the immobilizer and how to do it

If an auto electrician offers you to re-register the key without serious diagnostics, implying a complete check of each immobilizer unit, do not agree.

The master will charge you a lot of money for nothing. After all, a new key is prescribed only when no other recovery methods have yielded results. We know from experience that you need to register a new key in 1 out of 40 cases of contacting a car service center. And in every second case it is enough to clean the contacts and connectors. In 1 – 2 cases out of ten, it is necessary to check the controller and reset errors. Therefore, only an inexperienced electrician who does not understand the operation of the immobilizer, or an outright deceiver, will offer to register a new key without first conducting a complete diagnosis, in which each unit is removed from the car and checked both visually and using various tools and devices.

Video - Lada Granta - flashing working immobilizer keys

This operation will require special equipment and software, so registering the key yourself is quite difficult. To register the key, contact a qualified auto electrician. This will cost tens of times less than buying a scanner and programmer. In addition, there is a high risk of making a serious mistake that will lead to damage to the immobilizer or complete blocking of the car if you register the key without knowing how to use the program and electronic devices.

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