The right front window lifter of the Lada Priora does not work

July 29, 2015 Lada.Online 307 871 183

Owners of Lada Priora have to periodically deal with malfunctions of power windows (ESP). In some cases, the problem lies in some small detail that can be easily fixed with your own hands; in other cases, you will have to contact a service center to repair the ESP. We decided to look into the main reasons why power windows do not work.

Possible breakdowns

The window regulator on the Priora does not work and this is due to a number of reasons, the essence of which we will look into in detail. So, a passenger car VAZ-2170 Priora can be equipped by the manufacturer with electric windows for:

Two front doors
. As a rule, the two rear doors are equipped with manual rack-and-pinion lifts (window lifters are installed separately on them);
On all four doors.

Depending on the type, devices of the cable and rack operating principle are distinguished. By type, there are faults associated with the electrical and mechanical parts.

The most common mechanical failures include:

“Licking” of teeth on the gear of the lifting mechanism;
Defects in the cable mechanism that led to its damage or excessive stretching, which subsequently causes it to jump off the guide rollers.

As we see, there are few mechanical reasons and they are extremely rare.

Flashing the immobilizer

As a rule, Priora is equipped with a standard APS-6 immobilizer. This, as already said, is an optional procedure, but if the budget does not allow you to invest in a security system, you will inevitably have to deal with all this electronic “stuffing”. In addition to the power windows, the immobilizer controls several other systems of the car, even the rear lights. But the main problem is precisely that in the Priora car the immobilizer is structurally combined with the glass unit controller.

Priora lends itself well to tuning. A solution was also found for the immobilizer. During learning, the immobilizer writes its code to a non-volatile area of the ECU memory, which is stored in a disabled state. To disable the immobilizer, you need to clear this memory cell in the ECU.

To do this, you need to disconnect the original wiring connector from the immobilizer. Next, you need to determine the type of ECU. The flashing method will depend on this. If it is a Bosch M1.5.4, you need to open it and install a specially prepared chip with a program for cleaning the ECU EEPROM in place of the standard one and turn on the ignition for a few seconds. For some ECUs, you need to download special programmers from the Internet.

You can order flashing from specialists at reasonable prices. By the way, the Priora immobilizer itself is often prone to malfunctions, and therefore you need to interfere with its operation with extreme caution. On some types of ECUs, it is impossible to do without desoldering the microcircuit and you cannot completely erase the EEPROM. We end here. Good luck!

You watched

A new photo report on the installation of FORWARD electric windows in the rear doors of the Lada Priora was prepared by our buyer - Alexander Vyacheslavovich Aleksashin from Moscow, as part of participation in our promotion.

I finally got to the back doors of my swallow to replace the old window regulators with new FORWARD brands, which I purchased from the Steklopodem online store. RF.

Since I was already experienced in installation matters, I stocked up on clips for the inner plastic of the door, gauze tape and a set of keys.

Let's disassemble the door. Unlike the front door, the rear door is even easier to disassemble: - unscrew one self-tapping screw in the area of the door opening handle; — unscrew the two hexagons in the area of the window lift button; — unscrew the lock lock; - that's all.

Next, unclip the power window button, disconnect the plug and remove the plastic door trim.

We fix the glass with gauze tape and disconnect the power terminal of the window lift motor.

We move on to the window lift mechanism itself, which is secured with 4 bolts, unscrew them and unscrew the 2 bolts that connect the glass frame and the window lift carriage.

Next, with a little difficulty, we remove the window lift mechanism; here it is a little more difficult to get it out of the door than from the front.

We install the FORWARD rack and pinion lift, which fits very easily and simply through the door, just like through the front ones.

We connect the motor power plug and check its operation.

We install the window lifter mechanism in the standard holes. You can say they get up on their own.

We secure the mechanism with 2 bolts securing the glass and tighten the remaining 2 nuts of the mechanism itself.

Once again we check the operation of the window regulator, while securing the glass to the rack and pinion mechanism.

We put the door trim plastic back in place, replacing the damaged clips, and with “light, smooth movements” we secure it by screwing back the self-tapping screw and two hexagons.

Everyone's collected! Everything works great, better than the standard mechanism 500 times!

I am delighted with the FORWARD window lifters. The whole process of work took about 40 minutes for two doors.

Once again we thank Alexander for preparing the photo report and, as part of our promotion, we are transferring the promised prize to his mobile phone account.

You can buy FORWARD electric windows for LADA Priora (rear doors) in our online store

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

Electric windows (ESP) are convenient devices for controlling the side windows of a car, which are controlled by a special button and make it possible to lower or raise the side windows without rotating the previously used handles. This option is provided only in some modifications of the VAZ car, but nothing prevents you from purchasing a ready-made unit and installing it yourself.

The most preferred are rack type ESPs , so as an example we will describe the process of their installation.

The connection diagram for the window regulator on a VAZ-2110 car is as follows:

remove the negative terminal from the car battery to stop the supply of voltage to the on-board power supply network;
we take the wires that come standard with rack-and-pinion window lifts and make a kind of harness out of them that makes connection easy;
remove the car mounting block, which will require unscrewing the self-tapping screw that secures the special latch;
turn the block over and carefully install block Ш1 of the pre-prepared wiring harness into the corresponding connector;
dismantle the door trim;
we pull the wires to the electric window drive. To do this, you will need to carefully pass them through the holes in the door itself and the body pillar on the desired side.

After this, buttons or keys are installed that will be used to control the power windows. Depending on your desire, they can be attached either to the door trim of a VAZ-2110 car, or to an existing control panel. In the first case, you will need to use an additional wire, which will allow you to equip the key backlight.

Electrical defects

If it happens that all four window regulators fail, then the reason must initially be sought in fuse number F31

, which is located in the central power supply control unit. The manufacturer placed the fuse and relay mounting block under the steering rack. So getting there and checking the condition will not be difficult for any driver, even an inexperienced one.

You just need to open the plastic panel under the steering wheel and perform a visual inspection to find the damaged (burnt out) mechanism.

If you have problems opening the rear doors using the control buttons that are located on the door compartments, but the windows are driven by the central control unit, then we begin to look for the reason in a mechanism called the rear window switch. Often the mechanism randomly blocks the current supply, as a result of which the glass does not move.

Diagnostics are carried out

using a tester. If the product does not pass current, then it should be replaced with a working one, since it cannot be repaired. The cost of the device is low, so there will be no big expenses.

Next breakdown option

when one window regulator is faulty and cannot be moved using the central control unit. First of all, we test the mechanism on the corresponding doorway. If there are no complaints about the operation of the relay button, then we look for the cause in the head power supply, otherwise we replace the faulty relay. We finally check the entire system for serviceability.

In addition, a possible breakdown could be trivial mechanical damage to the electrical wire, as people say, it has become frayed. It can be eliminated by twisting or soldering the two ends of the wire, followed by mandatory insulation for safety purposes.

Now, as for the electric motor itself, the cause of the breakdown may be, and, as a rule, it is, significant wear of the commutator brushes

(freezing). Such freezing occurs due to the fact that the part is structurally made of plastic and, due to heating, can be deformed and modified.

The brush becomes motionless or inactive and is not able to perform its functions in full. Another reason why the power window on the Priora does not work. As you can see, you can eliminate the cause of the breakdown yourself, without having the proper experience, everything is quite simple and clear.

Modern cars are equipped with a number of devices and devices to ensure the comfort of the driver and passengers in the cabin. Among the many devices that provide comfort is an electric window regulator. Often these devices create inconvenience due to their unstable operation or failure. This problem, in particular, is quite common on Lada Priora cars.

A broken window regulator will not allow you to raise or lower your car window. Therefore, if this mechanism breaks down, you should immediately think about repairing it.

Communities › Lada Priora Club › Blog › Front left window lifter does not work

Guys, I had a problem, I lowered and raised the window and it stopped working altogether (I recorded a video and explained everything and how. Help me where to look for the problem, I already dismantled the door and tore off all the noise (You are the only hope! Administration, please do not delete the post !

Comments 59

Good day everyone! I decided to leave a review. I think the topic is relevant. Yesterday the window regulator stopped working - the relay clicks, but the glass does not move. I wanted to buy a new motor, but after reading the comments below, I decided to try to take it apart and look at its condition from the inside. It turned out that the springs that put pressure on the brushes had rotted. I changed the springs and everything worked. In the end, I didn’t spend any money, but now I’m missing one fountain pen at home (I got the spring from there). Let's see how long this repair will last!)))) All the best!

Same garbage, how did you fix it?

Most likely the brushes are stuck. when you hit the door they return to normal.

Two years have passed)) is no longer relevant))

When you press the raise/lower button on the right front window, instead of the power window, the right front door locks. Who had this? Please tell me how to cure it. I applied plantain, but it didn’t help. :) The window lift motor is working, I checked it by direct current supply from the battery. The signal is coming from the Comfort Block through the wire, I checked it with a multimeter.

This is interesting: Do you know how parking differs from parking?

The window regulator also stopped working. We knocked on the door and it worked immediately, thanks for the advice!)

I’ve been driving like this for two weeks now, today I want to take it apart with a friend to see what’s going on there, the relay is also clicking, but the glass is standing there like it’s dead))))

how did you solve the problem?

Disassembled, lubricated and everything works!

thanks, I'll try it!

Disassembled, lubricated and everything works!

Can you tell me what you used to lubricate it with? Today the same problem happened. Only I lowered the window, but couldn’t raise it)) it’s -5 on the street, I thought I’d die before I got to the garage))

Graphite. It's better to take it apart and coat it inside. Well, or, as a last resort, lubricate the inside with some oil and then drive it away with graphite

Got it, thank you. the same thing as you explained in the video. There’s a slight buzz in the door, there’s a clicking sound in the relay panel, but there’s no sense. The glass is dead in place. Neither up nor down. Tomorrow I’ll figure out what’s what) thanks for the info)

You're welcome))) I suffered with this glass myself)))

I will suffer tomorrow too)

Let me know what happens if you have time)

This happened a couple of times. I didn’t understand anything. try this! Press the power window button and knock on the door trim near the handle or just below! It should help. If it helps, let me know)

this happened a couple of times)) the solution to the problem was simple, I removed the lift, then disassembled the motor, lubricated everything well and reassembled the problem disappeared...

See comfort block. I had this crap. Only the driver's door still wouldn't close. Some kind of relay burned out in the block. I changed the block and everything is fine. I gave the old one to the KiPovts at work, and they gave it to me again. now also a worker.

Well, or ask in the store and check

Try to get a block with buttons that is known to work from someone, and you will at least find out what’s wrong

try removing the board as Kardan12rus said. I had this happen too; the passenger lift didn’t work on my end. took it off, cleaned it, rang the bell, and the dosi works

What's the micro button? Do I need to disassemble the block?

YES THE ONE WHERE THE BUTTONS ARE, IT'S EASY TO DISASSEMBLE

everything was the same! remove the trim and knock in the area of the motor well

I need to take it off and try) otherwise it’s through the casing

through the casing and it didn’t work out for me

The simplest thing is to remove the casing, disconnect the connector and check with a light bulb whether there is voltage there. if there is, then the problem is mechanical, usually a cable, gears or electrical - a motor (brushes, windings, etc.)

When I was removing the casing at the bottom of my street, the sound was as if something was spinning, like a motorized machine, it works for a second and stops, when I press it again it doesn’t buzz, it only buzzes if I don’t let it go up, but press down or vice versa. And when I turned off the chip, there was silence

It was the same... the reason was in the wire from the door to the salon

How can I tell which wire is which?)

I don’t remember to be honest - I called with a tester... there are 2 wires from the motor going to the harness, here is one of them

I had a micro button on the board shorting out, and this was driving me crazy. Look at the unit itself—it’s the board with the microswitches. Don’t poke each little thing too hard with your finger, the one that closes and will cause the relay to switch, etc.

In general, the window regulator is changing completely, most likely your cable has broken (but this is only if the switch clicks). I remember one day, in the morning and evening, two windows fell, and the next - a third. I had to change the assembly. You remove the trim, unscrew the motor and a couple more bolts and voila, you just need the help of a second person to raise the glass all the way, and in the meantime you raise the window regulator. Just recently I got another one, so I changed it. Yesterday another one refused to work(((I’m not touching it yet, although the new one is at home.

Yes, everything seemed to be intact when I took it apart, I tried to push the glass down with force and by pressing a button, nothing happened at all (

change the window regulator and forget about it. Mine also worked flawlessly, and then in two days three of them simply died. Two windows did not fall completely.

Moreover, when I took it apart, it was an infection and began to work. BBut after assembly it could work for an hour, an hour and a half... then it died again

It happened that the brushes were stuck in the motor. I tapped the casing well and everything worked

I knocked as hard as I could) it didn’t help(

There is no way to listen to the video, there are no speakers at work. Tell me, when you press the button does the relay click or is there silence?

The relay clicks. And the door clicks, as if you were closing a closed window even higher, such a creaking sound with a crunch. Now it’s the same in all clicks. Up or Down (

It was absolutely the same as yours... in the end I changed the motor. Issue price 800 rub.

Is it a pain to change it?

well, how can I say)))) the first time I took it apart, it was hemorrhagic. And then the fifth or sixth time I quickly removed it))) I installed a new motor and forgot about it.

Is it a pain to change it?

and one more thing... buy a new motor, insulate it with sealant if possible. Because there was rust and water in the old motor. I didn’t bother restoring it... all the bearings were even rusty

Is it a pain to change it?

As an option, knock on the casing, in the area of the motor, at the moment you press the button. You could simply lay the brushes in the motor, if that doesn’t help, rip off the casing, remove the chip, check the power supply with a tester, and then unscrew the motor, unscrew it from the trapezoid and disassemble it down to each screw, wash it, I had a lot of rust, and put it back together, preferably the rubber gasket for sealant. it’s difficult to pull out, you need to twist it around the stiffener, in general it’s a mess, at least for me it was difficult, my hands are big

I also took everything apart, lubricated and sealed it, water fills in and everything rusts. I did the same work with everyone, just in case.

I knocked and it didn't help. I tried to take it apart, but the motor wouldn’t come out, I couldn’t remove it, so I put everything back together)))

You need to scroll through and look at the factory cutout in the door, in the technological window, it just serves to pull out the trapezoid, and behind it the motor

I had the same problem, it turned out that the wire was broken and burned in the hose (whatever it’s called) between the door and the body) check if there is power going to the terminal for the window motor. In theory, when you press the button, 12V should be supplied and immediately turn off.

The thing is that I don’t even know how to get in there) I thought about removing the motor, unscrewed it, but couldn’t pull it out. How could you crawl up to measure the voltage?)

On a chip, for example, a window regulator), but since it worked for you before, then the motor is probably dead, throw two wires + and - from the battery, straight to the motor chip, if it doesn’t work, it means it’s definitely dead.

The thing is that I don’t even know how to get in there) I thought about removing the motor, unscrewed it, but couldn’t pull it out. How could you crawl up to measure the voltage?)

the motor is not removed separately, the entire mechanism is pulled out, but in fact everything is just 4-5 yuolt and it takes a lot of effort to pull it out through the hole in the door))) and as for the voltage, there should be a large two-pin chip in the door itself, it will either dangle will or should be attached to the door wall from the inside.

This is interesting: Rear axle gearbox VAZ 2106

The thing is that I don’t even know how to get in there) I thought about removing the motor, unscrewed it, but couldn’t pull it out. How could you crawl up to measure the voltage?)

try this - remove the rubber corrugation from the side of the door and pull the wires, maybe one of them will come out, then everything is simple)))

Okay, I'll try) thanks)

no problem, everything is the same as what I had...)

Why does the Priora window lifter not work?

Window lifter failure may occur due to a malfunction of the following systems:

The window lift motor has its own wear life; if it is exceeded, the mechanism fails, and the motor itself must be replaced.

If everything is fine with the motor, but the lifts still do not work, then the cause of the breakdown may be an electrical circuit or damaged wires.

"Priors" window lifter block

The car's safety unit contains a component responsible for the car's window regulators. If it fails, the mechanism stops functioning.

The Priora window control buttons can also cause a malfunction. This mainly occurs due to oxidation of the button contacts.

Situations also arise when the functioning of the Priora windows is quite unstable. For example, they can only work when the ignition is on or they work partially. It may be that the front ones function normally, but the rear windows on the Priora do not work. Then, most likely, the problem lies in the car's electronics.

How to identify a malfunction

To determine the malfunction, follow the instructions:

Connect the light bulb located under the door trim with the wiring coming from the electric drive. If the last one is broken, the light is on, which means the problem is in the wire.
If the operation of the power window control unit leaves much to be desired, the main reason is the contact of the wire with the box or another wire.

If a breakdown in the Lada Priora needs to be repaired with your own hands, without having special tools, first rule out the possibility of a wiring break or short circuit that falls on the ground of the wire responsible for controlling and powering the door structure module unit near the driver’s seat.

Causes of failure

Priora window lifts break down due to the car being in conditions of regular low temperatures for a long time, problems with the electronic control unit, failure of fuses, wear of the motor and other lift components, as well as skewed glass.

Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to diagnose those car systems in which the cause of the breakdown of this element may be hidden. Diagnostics are best carried out using tools and devices, for example, a tester will allow you to understand whether voltage is supplied to the window lift motor.

Once the cause of the problem has been identified, repairs can begin.

Diagram of window regulators on a VAZ-2107

On the automotive goods market for old mechanical VAZ models there are sets of electric windows from different manufacturers, the most popular of which are “GRANAT” and “FORWARD” rack-and-pinion type. The window lifter rack is a housing in which the glass movement device is located - a toothed chain drive. A stationary electric motor is already attached to the rack, driving the entire mechanism to work.

To connect power windows, you need to determine the place where you will get the power from. In the VAZ-2107, this is most conveniently done from the cigarette lighter. If this option is not suitable, then the electrical wiring will have to be done from the battery.

Troubleshooting control buttons

A fairly common malfunction is the failure of the window lift control buttons. Most often, the Priora power window buttons become oxidized, or their contacts begin to come off. To eliminate faults of this kind, you will need to clean the contacts from oxide or re-solder the buttons. When re-soldering, the contacts will fit snugly against each other, thereby ensuring uninterrupted operation of the power window.

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ

The procedure is performed in the following sequence:

temporarily remove the glass seal located on the inside of the door;
remove the glass, and then dismantle the window regulator fastening mechanism;
we install devices that will operate from an electric drive;
connect the negative terminal to the battery and check the operation of the new window regulator;
We install the glass in place and trim the door.

Unlike conventional mechanical devices, power windows are not equipped with traditional gear reducers, but with a special drum. The shaft of a DC electric motor is inserted into its hole located in the center. In this case, the motor is only a component of the gearmotor, on which, as we found out earlier, the speed and quality of raising and lowering the windows depends.

Installation of the lifting device is quite simple. It starts with disconnecting the battery. After this, use a curved screwdriver to unscrew 3 screws, unfasten the door trim latches and remove the door pocket. Using a thin screwdriver, pry off the handle (latch) of the window lifter - the tip of the tool is inserted into the recess between the latch and the socket.

The handle itself is removed. At the next stage, the car door opening handle is dismantled. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry the handle cover and remove it. Now use a screwdriver to remove the 2 fastening screws that were hidden by the cover plate. After this, the handle can be removed without much difficulty. Using a screwdriver, you can also remove the power window button, which serves to lock the door.

After removing 6 pistons, the trim covering the car mirror adjustment mechanism is also removed. As a result, it remains easy to dismantle the door trim. Armed with a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the auto glass clips. Next, 2 nuts securing the lifting mechanism, nuts of the upper and lower fastenings, and 3 nuts securing the lifting mechanism are unscrewed in sequence.

Upon completion of the described stage, it is time to remove the lower guide pin of the lifting device from the door panel. To facilitate and simplify such an operation, the upper pin of the guide must be bent using a screwdriver. Now the entire lifting mechanism can be safely removed through the resulting opening in the door frame.

1	Wire rope
2	Plank
3	Rack and pinion

Troubleshooting

Minor breakdowns include glass rattling, noise in the window lifter, free movement of glass under mechanical influence (for example, the glass does not rise or fall with the lifter, but the same can be done by hand). Their cause is skewed glass, failure of rollers or cables. If the glass is skewed, it must be adjusted. If the cable is broken, it must be replaced. If the cable comes off the rollers, you need to pull it back and adjust the car window regulator. The occurrence of noise is a sign that the mechanism is poorly lubricated. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to thoroughly lubricate all the power window mechanisms, as well as the glass guides. If the mechanism operates slowly, it should also be lubricated or replaced with a new one. Over time, the speed of lowering and raising the windows decreases due to wear and tear on the window lift motor.

Communities › Lada Priora Club › Forum › The window regulator on the Priora does not work.

Symptoms: the window just doesn’t open, I arrived in the evening, everything worked in the morning, in the morning I wanted to open it, it doesn’t work, the relay clicks, the voltage sags, you can hear the motor knocking, but it still doesn’t work, what should I do?

To begin with, at least disassemble the door and see where it jams.

Yes, I figured out what to take apart, but there’s no point, nothing moves, the motor clicks. When the button is pressed both up and down.

Did you lift it away from the mechanism? Is it the mechanism or the motor that is jamming?

That's what I didn't do, that I didn't do, but what do I need to unscrew from the top of the glass with a trapezoid?

You need to pull the trapeze with the motor out of the door and disconnect the motor from the trapeze, and drive the motor with the button. This way you will understand that the trapezoid or the motor is jammed.

What a horror it’s not for half an hour, but thank you very much, I’ll do it anyway, there’s no other way out)

There is always a way out, this is service