What to do if the window regulator on a VAZ 2115 does not work

On VAZ-2115 passenger cars, window lifters operate according to a simplified electrical circuit, without installing an electrical package controller. Therefore, if desired, the driver himself can find any malfunctions that arise that lead to the failure of all or only one window lifter at once.

When, when you press the buttons on the control panel for turning on the power windows, none of them work, then you will have to remove the cover of the mounting block and check the condition of fuse F16 (15A), which turns on the power window relay K5. And when the contacts of relay K5 are closed, voltage is supplied from the fuse terminal F6 (30A) to the terminals of the gearmotor.

We check the fuses by visual inspection, and you can verify the serviceability or malfunction of the K5 relay as follows. Remove this relay from the mounting block, and place a jumper in its block between terminals 30 and 87. If, when you press the power button on one of the power windows, it starts to work, then relay K5 will have to be replaced. And if none of the power windows turn on, then you will need to check the voltage at terminals 3 and 6 of connector X1 of the mounting block. The voltage to these terminals must come from terminals 15 and 30 of the ignition switch.

If only one window lifter does not work, then the fault will have to be found either in its power button or in the electric motor. To make sure what condition the gearmotor is in, you need to apply voltage directly to its terminals, bypassing its power button. But to do this you will have to remove the door trim. Just remember that changing the polarity of the voltage supply will change the direction of rotation of its armature, which will lead to either raising or lowering the glass. If the gear motor does not work, it will have to be replaced.

If the gearmotor reacts directly to the supply of voltage to its terminals, it means that it is “alive and well”, and you will have to check its power button, which may not work due to lack of contact on the ground wire or there is no voltage when the ignition is on ( 12 volts) at terminal No. 2 of its block. Problems with the ground wire occur due to corrosion of the contacts, and the lack of voltage at the second terminal of the block is due to wire breakage, which most often occurs at the point where they are constantly bent when opening and closing doors.

RESULTS

If the window regulator does not work, start by finding the cause of the breakdown, and then proceed to fix the problem. Most often, the malfunction can be fixed independently, without the involvement of specialists. This also applies to situations where it is necessary to remove the window regulator for repair or replacement.

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During the operation of the car, the window lift mechanism often breaks down. This is mainly due to high production. Initially it fails on the driver's side, since this system is most often used on this door. But if one component breaks down, the power windows on each door of the car may fail. What to do in this case? Let's take a closer look at how to solve the problem when the power windows of a VAZ 2114 do not work.

Troubleshooting video:

Reasons why the PP stopped working

In fact, there are not so many of them and the most common are:

The easiest one is poor contact between the panel and the electronic control unit. The problem is solved by replacing the plug or simply cleaning the contacts.
A breakdown in the instrument panel itself or malfunctions. To solve the problem, all connectors are reconnected, taking into account the correct connection diagram.
Malfunctions of the tachometer, speedometer, fuel level controller. In this case, the cause is mechanical or electrical. To troubleshoot problems, replace regulators or check the operation of fuses.
The illumination of the VAZ-1215 software stopped working. In this situation, it is necessary to find out the cause of the problem.

Fuse

When problems appear with the operation of the mechanism, the first thing to check is the condition of fuses F5 and F16. F5 is the fifth from the top on the left, and F16 is the bottom on the right. They are responsible for the operation of the window lift mechanism on the car. Fuse F1 may also affect the operation of the power windows.

Remember, the element cannot burn out just like that; this usually happens when the wire is short-circuited to body ground. If during replacement the new protective element also burns out, you need to inspect the entire system wiring diagram.

A little theory

Electric windows have long been used by car enthusiasts; they have significantly increased the level of comfort in the car. Naturally, like everything else, this innovation was put into practice by foreign manufacturers. The domestic auto industry picked up this idea much later.

Speaking abstractly, in terms of build quality, foreign manufacturers are head and shoulders above the Russian auto industry (however, there are significant differences in prices, service and components).

What does it mean? Everything is very simple

, a connoisseur of Russian cars will have to constantly struggle with minor (and not always minor) problems that arise, such as broken window regulators.

If your car was equipped with power windows with mechanical handles, then the cause of the breakdown is easy to find. Most likely, someone, driver or passenger, exerted extra effort and the mechanism gave way. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the car door from the inside; I remove all the trim.

If the electric lift does not work, then everything is also quite simple. The door on which a similar problem occurred should be disassembled in a similar way. The mechanism of electric window lifts consists of a non-separable motor, which can simply burn out and require replacement. There is also a cable with a bar coming from it. Before replacing, of course, it is necessary to check whether an electrical signal is received by the motor.

Perhaps the reason lies not in the mechanism itself

, but let’s say, in a faulty button, or in other electrical equipment. It is necessary to check the fuses that are located under the steering wheel on the right (under the cover, read more in the car user manual).

Fuse F5 is usually responsible for power windows. If the fuse is intact, then use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the motor terminals. To do this, you can use a regular 12V light bulb.

No voltage?

It is necessary to carefully check the wiring coming from the motor, inspect the relay and control unit. Very often, auto mechanics have to see problems with the button that controls the window regulator. Don't fix it, if it's the problem, just replace it.

It's not expensive and won't cause headaches in the future. If there is voltage on the motor, but it does not work, most likely the drive brush is stuck. You can solve this problem by pressing the button and turning the motor axis. If the cable breaks, it needs to be completely replaced.

If the fault cannot be identified, we move on to the mechanism relay. In the diagram it is marked with a special icon and is designated K5. Located at the bottom left. To check the functionality of the relay, it is better to replace it with a known working one and see if the mechanism functions.

The relay is responsible for closing the contacts when the ignition switch is turned on, so that there is no additional battery consumption when the car is parked. But over time, it may stop working, which is why even with the ignition on, voltage will not be supplied to the system.

Button

Another reason why the power windows on a VAZ 2114 do not work may be the control button. Inside it there is contact between the plates, the strength of which deteriorates over time. As a result of this, it completely disappears, and the button stops responding to pressing.

All buttons must be in good condition, as they are connected in series. If one fails, you won't be able to diagnose the problem by removing it from one door and putting it on another. In this case, you will have to purchase a new button and switch them around, identifying which one has stopped working.

The price is within 200 rubles, so carrying out such diagnostics is not that expensive.

Device classification

Window lifters on the VAZ-2114 are standard for other models of the Samara series. They are classified by drive type into:

mechanical;
electric.

The latter are divided depending on the method of transmission of the motor impulse:

lever;
rack and pinion;
cable

By type of construction:

collapsible;
whole.

Each model has its own advantages, disadvantages and price. Standard configurations of window lifting mechanisms on the VAZ-2114 consist of two types. Electric drive mechanisms are installed in front, while the rear doors are equipped with mechanical devices.

The most common reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work

There is no point in arguing that power windows significantly increase the operating comfort of a car. But most drivers also know that they cause a lot of trouble. By the way, when it comes to the breakdown of the mechanism, we must not forget that the problem may not be in it, but in the glass itself. Over time, the holder or seals wear out, which often leads to a banal misalignment, which significantly impedes the freedom of movement of the glass.

The design of the window lifting mechanism is quite simple, but not reliable. And the fact that the safety block is placed in a place where moisture and dirt can easily get in is also not a plus. As you know, the slightest wear of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of the entire system.

The most common reasons why a window regulator fails are the following:

Damage to the components of the control unit.
The contacts have oxidized and the circuit has opened.
Disconnecting the power supply.
The control button has stopped performing its functions.

Yes, most often car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that this component of the window regulator fails.

Private situations

General signs do not always indicate specific breakdowns. There may be exceptions.

If individual devices refuse to work, it is quite possible that this is their personal problem. You'll have to parse the specific pointer. It may have a cracked gear that needs to be replaced.

If the fuel gauge and tachometer are capricious (either they function, or they don’t react at all), the contacts and the mounting block are normal - you need to do a small check.
Reset is pressed and held, and the ignition is turned on at the same time. Raised arrows indicate the need for further searches. Lifeless - that microcracks have appeared in the shield itself. You will have to remove it and examine all soldering and traces under a magnifying glass. In principle, these are all the main options. If calling all the listed components and parts did not lead to the revival of the instrument panel, your case is individual, and you will have to determine the situation in the company of an experienced auto mechanic.
Check the 15A fuse to see if there is a short circuit on it or if it burns out immediately after you insert it. I had exactly the same thing; 3 fuses were replaced and burned out immediately. It’s better to go to a competent electrician, or better yet several, and listen to what they say. One master did everything for me for 1000.
Sometimes the speedometer and tachometer will fail. The fuel level will begin to show left readings - i.e. not on the scale, but somewhere behind the scale. A panel test helps. Hold down the mileage reset button, then turn on the ignition. The test mode will start, if it doesn’t work, then you’ll have to dig further.
Look for the lost minus. If it does not light up after ignition, it should light up from the backlight. if it is not there, then dig minus. Look at the body from the battery at the same time. there may be trouble there too.
There was such a thing - it turned out that the ignition relay was bad, several times everything went out at full speed in the third row, along with the turn signals and dimensions, at the same time the wipers were switched off, and even in the snow. The method of deduction did not help, the advice of experienced people almost led me into the wilds, it turned out that there was a crappy contact in the relay block, I disassembled the block, took out the terminals, tightened it a little, the main thing here is not to overdo it, otherwise you won’t push the relay, I assembled everything, at the same time I switched the relay to 40A - earned!

Source

Missing mass

Weight can also be the cause of a power window not working. Its connection location is not the best; it is located at the driver’s feet on the left near the door. Oxidation often occurs there, causing contact to be lost and the mechanism to stop working.

One contact receives both the mass of the central locking and the window regulator. Therefore, the problem can be diagnosed by the failure of the security system, but it is better to visually evaluate the contact for the formation of oxidation and rust.

If you find that the mass is not in good condition, you should clean the contact area and the terminals themselves with sandpaper, then assemble them and treat them with a special compound that will prevent the appearance of various impurities and protect the metal.

Tracks or contacts in the mounting block

Another reason may be a broken contact of the mechanism relay in the mounting block.

Considering the circuit of the mounting block, we can conclude that a constant plus comes to pin 30 through a fuse, and when we turn on the ignition, we apply another plus to pin 85. As a result of turning on the ignition, an electromagnetic field appears, which closes pins 30 and 87, which provides power to window lift buttons.

This means that if the operation of the plus on the ignition switch is disrupted, the contacts stop closing, even if the relay is in working condition. You can check this by closing contacts 30 and 87 directly, then the plus will come without the ignition switch and if the problem is in it, then the power windows will work.

The video demonstrates another solution to this problem:

But there may also be the opposite situation, that we do not have a constant positive supply to pin 30, and when we turn the ignition key, the contacts close, but nothing happens. In this case, it is best to ring the contact with a tester and find out whether there is constant voltage. For testing, you can connect the plus directly to pin 87, but this is not safe, since the wire will go outside the fuse.

Repair

To troubleshoot problems with the wipers on your VAZ 2109, it is not at all necessary to contact a service station. The work can be done with your own hands, saving a decent amount of money.

Repair consists of performing several operations:

Disassembling the unit;
Troubleshooting;
Eliminating the causes of purifier failures;
Reassembly.

Dismantling

The first step is to learn how to remove windshield wipers. This will give you access to the device and all its components.

It is enough to follow the specified sequence of actions and first familiarize yourself with the wiper diagram in order to do everything correctly.

Scheme

First, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery to de-energize the car.
Remove the brush arms by moving them to a vertical position and unscrewing the fastening nuts. Unscrew the nuts carefully so as not to push the lever out. Otherwise, under the action of the spring, it will fly into the glass and break it.
By unscrewing the fasteners, the levers can be removed. It is not always possible to do this manually, so arm yourself with pliers. Be careful not to damage the threaded area. To avoid this, screw the nut back onto the splines, but not completely.
Remove the protective caps made of plastic from the slots on each side.
Unscrew the upper mounting nuts with the bracket and remove them. Under them there are rubber washers, which are also dismantled.
Lift the hood and disconnect the wiring harness that powers the wiper motor.

Window lift motor

The last culprit regarding the electrical part will be the mechanism itself. It is located under the trim inside the door. If the passenger power window on a VAZ 2114 or only the driver’s one does not rise, then suspicions fall primarily on the motor.

This occurs due to wear and tear inside the mechanism. It is not dismountable, so it is impossible to carry out repairs and only replacing the entire system will help. Diagnostics are carried out without removal. It is enough to take the plus and minus from the battery and connect it directly to the motor. The mechanism works by changing the polarity, that is, by connecting the wires to the contacts, the window will move down, and if you swap the wires, the glass will rise.

If work is restored, then the problem has not been identified. And the last thing to check is the wiring. Perhaps the wires broke in the harness that goes into the door, or they frayed in some other place. In this case, you need to ring all the wiring in the power window circuit at the time of the breaks. If you find a problem, the wire must be replaced with the same or larger cross-section.

Analyzing the reasons why the power windows on the VAZ 2114 do not work, we can conclude that the entire mechanism is built on an electrical system. If one element stops working correctly, it is followed by a chain of complete shutdown of the mechanism, and in order to find the reason, you have to inspect absolutely everything.

Diagnosis can only be made based on the following signs: one or both window regulators are not working. Because of this, the repair process takes quite a long time. In the article, we analyzed all the weak points where you should look first, which will help you make troubleshooting easier.

How to remove a window regulator and install a new part

To remove the window regulator, do the following:

Remove the inner door lock handle at the same time as the rod.
Lower the glass a little so that the mounting bolts are visible in the amplifier hole.

Using a ten key, unscrew a couple of bolts that hold the windows and the lift.
Raise the glass as far as it will go and secure it with a screwdriver or tape.

Discard the wiring harness from the door and power window motor.

Using an eight-inch wrench, unscrew the seven mounting nuts holding the window regulator to the door.

Remove the window regulator.

Place the mechanism in its original place, in the reverse order of dismantling. Before doing this, treat the glass lift guide with lubricant.

The power window raises but does not lower the window

Greetings to all. Help me figure out the problem. The power window raises the window all the way, but does not lower it. I transferred the buttons from a known working lift - everything was the same. I disassembled the door, current flows from the button to the electric motor, and if you press the button up, then the plus comes from one wire, if you press the button down, then the plus comes from the other wire, only 2 wires to the electric motor.

Only a small part remains, in the photo with a blue sticker, it says AR00611, 15M6K. Who can tell me if she is responsible in the engine for making it spin in different directions? If not, where should I dig and what should I check?

Often it's just a matter of the motor. tap a little with a hammer and everything becomes humming, but not for long. the brain brushes are most likely floating. and “+” is changed by the button itself

The motor turns freely (in one direction), everything is lubricated, the brushes are not burnt, and besides, why does it only turn as it should in one direction, and absolutely zero in the other? - obviously not in brushes.

they change places, but in general it is immediately checked directly with the battery: + and - you change places and see how it works

So, how can I measure the minus?)) A plug with two wires, an up button on the left (for example, a plus), a down button on the right, a plus. There should be a minus on the opposite ones at this time, right?

I change places, for example, but it spins only in one direction, is this small part to blame (in the photo with a blue sticker), or does the motor simply spin in different directions due to a change in polarity?

Measure the voltage at the connector removed from the motor. You can just plug in a light bulb.

This is a spark arresting capacitor, it either works or it doesn't. regardless of polarity.

This means that this capacitor protects the brushes from burning, and that’s not the problem. Then fantastic) The mechanics cannot be at fault, I completely disconnected the motor, the gear rotates smoothly freely, but only in one direction.

what car? I think it’s a button or buttons, if there are duplicates

as options, put this engine in place of the working one or take a working button and connect it to this engine

why? + and - with the battery directly and check. then change the polarity and check again

Accent. I took a working button and connected it, everything was the same) I’ll go for a walk and torment the lift motor)

feed directly + and - from the battery to the motor, see how it goes down, maybe it’s hitting the borhotka that’s inside the slide, maybe there’s a bad contact somewhere

Repair of the right electric window on a VAZ 2115

Well, I decided to do it myself, but I also had plans to glue the door with an anti-squeak so that when driving I wouldn’t hear the rattling of the door cards and also glue the inside of the door, I completely removed the door card

For a long time I looked at what was inside and then I saw that there was a door itself, there were glass seals, for me it was a surprise since I had never looked there, I thought, let’s raise the glass, press the button and see that the window doesn’t want to go up at all, well, I made up my mind I knocked with a hammer as Miracle Man wrote, I knocked completely, I didn’t crush the seal, I pressed the button, but the same thing for you, I myself didn’t believe in it because I noticed that the glass didn’t even rise to the middle normally and something else was preventing it, I took it out Full internal and external glass seal

I cleaned it thoroughly, took silicone spray and lubricated it as expected, after waiting a little, I put on the seal and let’s quickly check that it’s on. I press the ignition button and I don’t know how it started working, but it didn’t work like that when I bought the car, it was always dead, and this one flies, but so far without this glass seal

I put the seals on... I start it up and oh yeah, nothing is missing, it works great, oh I think, what if you start the car, it’s a beast. Damn, so much joy, even I’m shocked. I'm starting to glue the doors.

When I put the door cards back on and tightened everything up, I was pleasantly surprised, the brothers-in-law don’t rattle and everything is neat, the glass flies, the doors don’t fasten and I’m jumping in my soul with joy, and lastly, a video that I advise you to watch to the end which glass I had and which steel, thank you all for reading me.

Components of the window lift system

What should I do if the right one does not work or both electronic devices fail? The window regulators may break, leaving them unable to lower or raise the windows. It is possible that the electronic device is jamming or sticking, but before you repair and disassemble the system yourself, you need to understand its structure. The unit itself works by controlling electric motors installed in the vehicle doors and designed to raise and lower the windows.

The system itself includes the following components:

electric motors;
switches located in the doors;
wiring;
glass

Principle of operation

Why do the power windows not work or only the right window does not go up? To understand exactly why the malfunction occurred, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the operating principle of the unit. Typically, such a system has a trapezoidal design, which allows the windows to be raised and lowered by pressing switches. The buttons themselves can be located in all car door cards or located only in the driver’s door. It is also worth noting that an electric motor is mounted in each door, which operates in two directions.

In addition, each system is equipped with a special relay, the purpose of which is to control the voltage supplied to the electric motors of the structure. Depending on the vehicle, some car models may be equipped with automatic switches that are installed separately for each electric motor. The use of such structural elements makes it possible to ensure normal operation of the entire system if the window regulator is poor on only one door.

Recommendations for care and maintenance

Buy original fuses. Domestic or foreign, it doesn’t matter;
Install strictly in accordance with amperage ratings. Unacceptable with lower or higher current strength. In the first case, this will lead to damage to the module, in the second - to breakdown of the unit, which is attached to the fuse;
Carefully check the quality of fixation of terminals and limit switches on the board. If loose, tighten and press with pliers. A spark can cause a fire and melting occurs;
If moisture gets in or condensation forms inside the mounting block, remove the cover, dry it, and if necessary, blow it with a stream of compressed air.

Carry out preventive and diagnostic work in the fuse box with the battery terminals removed in order to prevent a short circuit in the circuit.

The average service life of fuses is 40 – 60 thousand km. The service life of foreign analogues is 10–15% longer. Before replacing, read the instructions and get advice from service station specialists.

Sources

zapchasti.expert/predoxraniteli/predoxraniteli-vaz-2115.html
avtoblokrele.ru/vaz/blok-predohranitelej-vaz-2113-2114-2115.html
drive2.ru/l/5419303/

Causes of malfunction

So, we gradually approached the issue of malfunctions. What if the window regulator cannot go down or up? Before you remove the window regulator, disassemble and repair it in your car, let's look at the main reasons. If the rear or front windows do not work, the reason may be either electrical or mechanical.

Electrical faults

First of all, if the window regulator has stopped working, it is necessary to diagnose the safety element responsible for the functionality of the system. If you realize that the power window is not working due to a fuse, then you just need to replace it. But if the fuse is working, then you will need to measure the voltage at the electric motor terminals. This task can be accomplished using a regular 12-volt lamp or using a tester.

If you find that the driver's window or any other door does not work due to voltage, then you need to further check:

wiring;
relay;
system control unit.

Sometimes a car owner thinks that the window regulator is broken if, after opening the window, it automatically begins to close until the key is turned in the ignition. As a rule, in this case the problem lies in the contacts, which should be cleaned. Much less often, but it still happens that repair of electric windows includes replacing or repairing a button.

Mechanical defects of the mechanism

Purchase a window regulator repair kit and repair the device, after which you can fully use the system.
Try to grab the glass on both sides with your hands and pull it up. If the glass falls after being lifted, you will have to disassemble the door and place a support of the appropriate size under it.
If you can’t lift the glass with your hands, you can take a fishing hook on a fishing line and lower it into the door card. You need to try to pry the glass and lift it.

Instructions for replacing the electric motor

Repairing a window regulator may include different stages depending on the breakdown. In this case, we will tell you how to repair a window regulator by replacing its electric motor; as mentioned above, this problem is one of the most common.

The replacement process is considered using the example of a Lada Kalina car:

First you need to buy a new electric motor, which is sold in a housing with a gearbox. The door trim is dismantled - this operation cannot be performed in the cold, since the trim is fixed using plastic pistons, which will quickly break.
Unscrew all screws and other fasteners securing the inner handle.
All wires must be disconnected; for greater convenience, you can remove the speakers. After these steps, the glass, which is fixed in the guides, is unscrewed. In order for the glass to sink to the bottom, you need to unscrew four more screws; to do this, use a 10 key. There is a curtain at the bottom of the glass unit, which must be removed.
The window regulator itself is mounted on nuts and guides, the electric motor itself is secured with three more nuts. The block can be pulled out through the technological holes in the door. If you disassemble the gearbox, the electric motor will fall apart into two parts. In general, the gearbox must be dismantled and replaced with a new one, further reassembling in the reverse order. The gear cable should be lubricated before use.

1. First remove the door trim.

2. Disconnect all wires.

3. Disconnect the gearbox and replace it with a new one.

Video “Replacing ED at home”

Hi all! Dear friends, you are all aware of what “jambs” and shortcomings each of us “happy” owners of domestic VAZ cars have to eliminate. Today’s article is another life-saving solution for those who are faced with the problem of poorly functioning beet lifters.

Electric windows (ESP) have been installed on foreign cars for decades, so, as a rule, there are no problems with them, which cannot be said about VAZs. On “our” swallows, such a miracle has been occurring for about 10 years, and as practice shows, the good old “meat grinders” in the form of a simple mechanical handle worked much more reliably. Get to the point! A defect was noticed on many models from 2109 to 2115, where, as a rule, the front right glass does not rise well. Moreover, the window lifters slowly raise somewhere from the middle or even lower, the glass slows down or stops rising altogether. At the same time, drivers help the ESP either with their hand or with a “clarion word”.

Why does the window regulator work poorly?

The first reason is poor lubrication of the window lift mechanism. During operation, the ESP mechanism gradually loses lubrication, causing the windows to slowly lower or rise. The solution to the problem is to remove the door card, after which all working parts are lubricated. If after lubrication of the window lifter mechanism the problem is not eliminated, we continue to search for it.
Often the reason may be poor adjustment of the glass itself. That is, a situation where the glass itself is not installed correctly on the lifting bar. In this case, it is necessary to remove the door card and adjust the position of the glass using the adjusting nut, and then check the operation of the ESP.

The fourth reason is poor lubrication of the guides. Sometimes, during operation, the guides, or it would be more correct to say the tunnel along which the glass moves, wear out, become abraded, become dirty, etc. As a result, the glass experiences excessive load and resistance, which naturally leads to the window lifter slowly raising the glass. The problem is solved quite simply, we take cotton swabs and clean the tunnel from dirt and sand. Then we take a lubricant, it can be silicone grease or WD-40, or something alternative, and lubricate the guides. We don’t skimp on the lubricant, but we don’t put it in excess either, we just generously coat the sliding areas of the glass, then check the result.

Wear of velvet. Due to increased wear of the velvet covers, or more simply put, glass seals, the latter may rise more slowly. However, if this is the problem, then most likely the power windows on all doors will not work well. The solution to this problem is to replace the worn velvets, after which the problem should go away.

If all the steps described above are completed, then the problem should most likely go away; if this does not happen, you should continue the search or completely replace the ESP. That's all for me, I'm waiting for your solutions to this problem! Perhaps some of you have encountered a situation where the window regulator does not raise well, I would be grateful if you describe your case, as well as a way to solve this problem. Bye!

How to repair a power window button?

The easiest way is to go to any car store and purchase a new button for replacement. If you don’t have the funds or don’t want to spend money, go the other way - dismantle the failed button and repair it. The essence of restoration work involves cleaning and restoring the quality of contacts. By the way, such manipulations can help slow down the operation of the window regulator.

Next, proceed like this:

Prepare the work area where the work will be done. It should have good lighting.
Inspect the product. There are latches on both sides of the case that need to be bent and the upper part removed.
Remove the “rocker” by pressing on it.
Remove metal plates.

After completing the work discussed, you get access to the board. Get it out by soldering it. Using a marker, make notes so as not to make mistakes with the installation in the future.

Place the dismantled board aside and take the following steps:

Bend the contacts that are on top and press against the bottom contact group. The point is to get enough clearance for cleaning.
Clean the contacts using sandpaper.
Assemble the button in the reverse order of disassembling the mechanism.
Install the button in the machine, then check its functionality.
If everything is done correctly, the button will work and will perform its tasks, no worse than a new part.