All those who have seen a more or less modern car not for the second time, and even if it was a matter of driving, have long noted for themselves one of the useful options... People call it a lazy turn signal or a polite turn signal. Its whole essence boils down to the fact that when turning right or left, the driver only touches the turn signal lever once, without fixing it. That is, it simply makes the turn signal circuits work, but does not turn on this very switch. As a result, after the lever is released, the direction indicators are activated 3-4 more times, and at this time the driver can already go about his “business,” that is, completely devote himself to the road. The option is very useful when you have to change lanes. After all, when the turn signal lever is fully turned on, automatic shutdown will not occur, due to the insignificant angle of rotation of the steering wheel, which means you will have to poke back and forth with the pointer itself or constantly support it with your hand on the verge of turning on in order to imitate the operation of the turn signal. And if there is such an option, then I just slightly touched the lever and forgot. In general, we think that the essence of the work has been fully revealed, but now it’s worth mentioning the possibility of implementing such an option on your machine.
Ghostgkd777 › Blog › Running fire turn signal
I decided to pamper my subscribers and publish several articles at once, fortunately I haven’t been sitting idle all this time)
This time we will talk about the running fire control board with filling, used for turn signals “ala Audi”
There is no implementation in hardware because The development of a circuit, board and firmware was ordered, the customer assembles it himself because needs to be done as quickly as possible. I tested the program on a breadboard, not in Proteus.
At the moment, two versions of the firmware with three versions of the board have already been implemented.
Well, now in more detail.
Allows you to implement a “running fire” turn signal with filling on 9 channels. Automatically disconnects from the battery after the turn signals are turned off and does not consume current. Has a turn extender
(“lazy person”). You can connect the lamp through the built-in field-effect transistor, this way we get rid of the problem of asynchronous operation of the running light and the turn signal lamp. The glow time of the turn signal lamp can be changed in a fairly wide range.
Differs from version 1 in the absence of a bend extension
and the ability to adjust the lighting speed of the LED module to ensure synchronization with the turn signal.
In this version, the function of turning on the turn signal lamp from the controller with adjustable glow time has been eliminated.
The parts used are shown in the diagram. Transistors must be set to a current of at least the load current of the LED modules and a voltage of at least 20V. I recommend using n-channel mosfet in SOT-23 package as output transistors.
The boards are designed in SL and DipTrace for all three versions.
It is necessary to supply +12V power to the board from the battery. NOT from the ignition key, but from the battery. This is the main disadvantage of this version, which is why the second and third ones were made. The IN L® terminal is connected to the car's standard wiring to the wire going to the turn signal. LED modules are connected to outputs LED1-9 and light up in the appropriate sequence. The turn signal lamp is connected to the OUT L® pin; if the lamp remains at all, otherwise we do not connect anything. The turn signal lamp's burning time is adjusted by installing a jumper from the IN LED(X) pin to one of the LED1-9 pins. The higher the pin number, the longer the lamp burns.
The main advantage of this version is that there is no need to connect the board to the battery positive, which greatly simplifies its connection. But you have to pay for convenience. For this reason, this version and version 2.1 do not have the turn extender feature. Adjustment of the filling speed of the lights is adjusted by installing a jumper relative to ground on pins SPEED1-5. The larger the number, the slower the filling. By adjusting the filling speed, the module's burning time is adjusted in time with the turn signal lamps. Synchronization is automatic. This version retains the ability to connect turn signal lamps via mosfet to the controller to adjust the burning time.
In this version the firmware is the same as in 2.0, the difference is that the mosfet for the turn signal lamp is removed for implementation options when the turn signal lamp is removed and only the LED module works.
A small demonstration of the first version of the firmware:
There can be many options for use in a car, depending on what exactly you are doing. A couple of connection examples below.
Turn signal running fire + DRL. Version 3.1 Turn signal running fire + DRL. Version 3.1 Testing and configuration.
Source
Video of how our headlight works
All those who have seen a more or less modern car not for the second time, and even if it was a matter of driving, have long noted for themselves one of the useful options... People call it a lazy turn signal or a polite turn signal. Its whole essence boils down to the fact that when turning right or left, the driver only touches the turn signal lever once, without fixing it. That is, it simply makes the turn signal circuits work, but does not turn on this very switch. As a result, after the lever is released, the direction indicators are activated 3-4 more times, and at this time the driver can already go about his “business,” that is, completely devote himself to the road. The option is very useful when you have to change lanes. After all, when the turn signal lever is fully turned on, automatic shutdown will not occur, due to the insignificant angle of rotation of the steering wheel, which means you will have to poke back and forth with the pointer itself or constantly support it with your hand on the verge of turning on in order to imitate the operation of the turn signal. And if there is such an option, then I just slightly touched the lever and forgot. In general, we think that the essence of the work has been fully revealed, but now it’s worth mentioning the possibility of implementing such an option on your machine.
Assembly instructions
LED lamps are semiconductor elements that glow when exposed to electric current. The main element in them is silicon. Depending on what impurities are used, the color of the light bulbs changes.
Photo gallery “Possible options for dynamic direction indicators”
Tools and materials
To make a running turn signal with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
You need to prepare fiberglass laminate from consumables. It is needed for the manufacture of a printed circuit board on which the semiconductor element will be placed. The required LEDs are selected. Depending on the characteristics of the LEDs and the current and voltage values of the on-board network, the characteristics of the protective resistors are calculated. Using calculations, the remaining components of the network are selected (the author of the video is Evgeny Zadvornov).
Work sequence
Before making turn signals, you need to choose a suitable scheme.
Scheme for manufacturing running turn signals
Then, based on the diagram, make a printed circuit board and apply markings on it to place future elements.
The assembly consists of a sequence of actions:
At the next stage, an additional stabilized power source is connected to the network. Its input receives power from the intermediate relay, and the output is connected to a diode. It is better to place it in the instrument panel.
When connecting LEDs, you must ensure that the anode is connected to the plus of the power source, and the cathode to the minus. If the connection is not made correctly, the semiconductor elements will not light up and may even burn out.
For which electrical circuits is a polite turn signal on Arduino suitable?
Before you go into all serious troubles about the production of a polite turn signal, you need to understand what electrical connection diagrams it will be suitable for without modifying the electrical circuit in the car. Here we are presented with two main options that differ in principle. The first is when the turn signals turn on when they are connected as a load. That is, the switching occurs due to switching the turn signal lamp circuit, in which the turn signal lever itself is located, it is this that closes the circuit, after which the operation occurs. In this case, it will not be possible to use our option, since when the lever opens the circuit with the lamps, we immediately disable the possibility of light indication, even if a signal arrives at the lever itself, it simply will not go any further. The second option is ours, when there are control signals and there are output power signals. In this case, instead of the standard relay, you can install exactly the circuit that we would like to bring to your attention.
Relay power module that can be purchased on the Internet to control the power load
Features of installation and configuration of running direction indicators
You can install dynamic turn signals instead of conventional LEDs. To do this, the repeaters are removed from the mirrors, the board with LEDs and current-limiting resistors is dismantled. On the repeater you need to tear the glass away from the body. Then you should carefully cut out the reflector and remove it.
In place of the remote reflector, an SMD 5730 board is installed, on which yellow LEDs are located. Since the repeater has a curved shape, the board will have to be delaminated and bent a little. You need to cut off the part with the connector from the old board and solder it to connect the controller. Then all components are returned to their place.
To adjust the timing of the running LED lights, a switch is soldered to the microcontroller. When a suitable speed is found, jumpers are soldered in place of the switch. When connecting two pins to ground, the minimum time between LED flashes will be 20 ms. When the contacts are closed, this time will be 30 ms.
LED dynamic turn
Price issue
You can make a running light turn signal from daytime running lights. Their cost is 600 rubles. In this case, you can use “pixel” RGB LEDs as light sources in the amount of 7 pieces for each running turn signal. The cost of one element is 19 rubles. To control the LEDs, you need to purchase an Arduino UNO costing 250 rubles. Thus, the total cost will be 1060 rubles.
"Thank you" function
The curtsey allows, after a single flashing of the hazard warning lights (direction indicators on both sides), to issue a series of flashings of the hazard warning lights (direction indicators on both sides). The number of blinks in a series is determined by the “number of blinks of the thank you function” parameter, and the series itself is determined by the thank you function. If the turn signal switch or hazard warning light button is pressed while the thank you function is operating, the thank you function will stop. The implementation of the thank you function is only possible if the vehicle circuit allows the simultaneous closure of the contacts of the left and right turn switches to generate an emergency signal.
How to make dynamic turn signals (stacked) with your own hands from a KIT DIY kit from AliExpress
This designer consists of a printed circuit board measuring 20x55mm and, accordingly, a set of necessary radio components. The installation location of all components and their ratings are indicated on the board, so there are no particular difficulties with installation.
The entire manufacturing process and operation of the circuit can be seen in the video:
List of tools and materials - a set of running lights on a CD4017 or K561IE8 chip (link to the set); -screwdriver; - scissors; - soldering iron; -cambric; - rechargeable battery from a cell phone; -12V power supply; - connecting wires; - foil PCB for printed circuit board; - K561TM2 microcircuits; -resistors; - transistors KT815 (or analogues); -LEDs.
Step one.
PCB wiring kit from AliExpress.
All that is needed is to solder the components of the kit onto the board. Due to the miniature size of SMD radioelements, I used a “third hand” with a magnifying glass. First, I soldered resistors, capacitors and other components of the circuit except microcircuits. At the end we solder the microcircuits and LEDs.
Scheme after modification..
To check the operation, I connected pieces of LED strip with three LEDs to each of the eight channels.
I replaced the 50 kOhm trimming resistor with a 470 kOhm one to expand the limits of pulse frequency adjustment. I found an old turn signal lamp in the garage and covered the LED strip with it. The lighting effect turned out to be quite good.
This is how the weekend design turned out. It was interesting to test out the new scheme, so everything was done quickly. In the future it will be possible to make a new general printed circuit board. A beginner can make such running lights on LEDs on his own without spending a lot of time and money. And where to use them is up to you to decide.
Source
Making “lazy turn signals”
Making “lazy turn signals” for cars
To be honest, I heard about this mode of operation of the turn signals on some new cars: when you briefly move and release the turn signal lever, the turn signals automatically flash 3 times.
This is very convenient when driving on the highway: 2-3 “blinks” are enough to indicate the start of a lane change, but you don’t want to move the turn signal lever to a fixed position, because The self-return mode does not work with minimal steering rotation. Therefore, you have to hold the lever with your finger for a couple of seconds. Actually, I would have driven calmly without it... But some people have installed such a “feature” for themselves. Someone “enjoys life.”
And I do not have. Not fair! I also decided to repeat the design of the “lazy turn signals”. I was already dreaming: I’ll finally “flash” the ATtiny13 controller... I open the electrical diagram... Damn, the turn signal circuit in Subaru is not the same: there the steering column switch “supplies ground” to one of the inputs “turn signal and hazard warning relay”, and Wires are already coming out of it to the lamps. A modern car - they didn’t let the power circuits of the lamps go through the switch on the steering column! By the way, the hazard warning button is incredibly simple - one contact for short circuit (also to ground).
. On the one hand, “it’s not like that,” but on the other hand, it will be easier to implement, you won’t need to install power relays and powerful keys in this “device”—it will be enough to “hold the ground” with any low-power key.
These are the thoughts I went to bed on Friday.
I wake up on Saturday, my wife and daughter are preparing breakfast, I’m stretching in bed... And then a logical chain is built in my head: “turn a short impulse into a long one” - “form an impulse of a certain duration” - “pulse shaper” - “monotor” - damn, yes This is one 155AG3 microcircuit!
I jump out of bed and run to the bookcase - here it is: V.L. Shilo “Popular digital microcircuits.” I'm looking for the 155AG3 chip. I read: “The microcircuit contains two restartable monovibrators, with the ability to interrupt the pulse.” This is exactly what I need! In addition, there is complete freedom of choice: “The monovibrator has 2 inputs - one for triggering with a negative pulse, the second with a positive one, as well as two paraphase outputs.” Moreover, external keys are not required - “The maximum output current of the microcircuit is 40 mA.” Wow, the chip, developed more than 40 years ago, is exactly suitable for Subaru! Incredible!
What a breakfast, what coffee! I pull out cassettes with microcircuits from the “bins”... here it is: K555AG3! As many as 3 pieces. Excellent, the 555 series has lower current consumption compared to the 155. Designs to be! Today.
After breakfast, I sketch out a diagram with a pencil. Here is its final version:
Since turning on the turn signal is a short circuit of the switch to the ground, i.e. a negative pulse, the signal is applied to the input Ā of the monostable. We don’t use input B, so we “pull” it to +5 V through a resistor. We also use an inverse output - we connect it to the input via a diode so as not to short it to ground when the turn signal is turned on.
When a short-term negative pulse is applied to pin 1 (9), the monostable generates a negative pulse at pin 4 (12) of a given duration. The duration is set by the RC chain connected to pins 14 and 15 (6 and 7). With the R4C9 (R7C10) ratings indicated in the diagram, the duration of the generated pulse is about 1.8 s, which corresponds to three blinks of the turn signals.
Single vibrators are restartable, i.e. if during these “three blinks” we again briefly pull the lever in the same direction, the signal will last for another three blinks. This can be done ad infinitum.
If we move the lever to a fixed position and turn it off after three blinks, i.e. when the pulse at the output of the monostable stops, the “extension” of the signal will not occur.
So that when one turn signal is turned on (during three blinks of the opposite one), the signal of the opposite one is interrupted - we connect the input of one one-shot to the Reset input of another one-shot and vice versa. When a negative pulse arrives at pin 3 (11), the generated pulse at the output stops.
That's all. +12 V power (from the ignition circuit) is supplied to the microcircuit through the 78L05 integrated stabilizer. We protect the input from accidental polarity reversal with a diode. To protect against impulse noise and high-frequency interference, we protect the inputs with capacitors (C1, C2).
Looking ahead, I’ll tell you about the purpose of integrating RC circuits at the inputs of monovibrators. When debugging the device in the car, a strange feature of the operation of the turn signal switch became clear: when the lever is moved from a fixed position to neutral (at the moment of transition from a fixed to an unfixed position), the circuit opens briefly, which is equivalent to turning off the turn signals and briefly turning them on again. Naturally, the one-shot device perceives this as a repeated triggering pulse and begins to “extend” the signal. In addition, when the lever is abruptly moved from a fixed position to a neutral position, the lever “shoots” and manages to briefly close the circuit in the opposite direction, which is also perceived by the monovibrator as a triggering impulse. Therefore, it was necessary to introduce some signal delay on elements R1C3 and R2C4. The capacity of these capacitors can be increased to 47 μF.
I'm selecting the rest of the details. A suitable case was also found - packaging from the magnetic head of a cassette recorder. I saw off a piece of the breadboard to the size of the case. I sit down to solder.
An “ambush” was waiting for me in the form of a suitable miniature 4-pin connector that was missing from home. There were two 2-pin ones. I had to color one red with a permanent marker...
So, the circuit is soldered.
Excess partitions are removed from the case, the ribs along the edges are left to fix the board. The housing has holes for connectors.
We install the board. Like “native”.
We close the case, grabbing it with a couple of drops of instant glue.
We check it at work. We measure the current consumption - 14 mA. Great, you can go install it in the car.
We disassemble the torpedo: “tear off” the side panel. Unscrew the 2 screws and remove the bottom panel. Here is the required “FLASHER” relay.
We remove the entire panel from the relay, disconnect the “FLASHER”, and connect the wires to its connector: “Ground” - black. “+12 V ignition” - green with a blue stripe (do not confuse it with just green - this is the activation of the emergency lights!). “Turn switch, left” – blue with a black stripe. “Turn switch, right” – red with a black stripe. For my device, where the left is connected to the right is not important.
We attach it with self-adhesive Velcro directly to the relay body.
Let's check. Works correctly (after adding RC chains at the input :). There are no glitches. We assemble the torpedo in reverse order.
Today I traveled around the city. On the Third Transport Ring, it helps when overtaking in heavy traffic, although it is unusual. Maybe I change lanes quite abruptly in the flow, but for some reason two blinks are enough for me... I have a desire to “turn it off” with my hand. You need to get used to it.
I did not assign other functions to this device. I do not need them. —————————————
One of the board options modified by me:
If you want to make a “thank you” mode - extending the emergency signal by 2 blinks - you need to add another one-shot: either install a second 555AG3, and use only one one-shot in it, or install a 555AG1, which contains only one one-shot. It is connected to the green (without stripe) wire of the same relay. Here's the diagram:
You can also turn on the emergency lights automatically when reversing - one transistor, 2 resistors. Then you will also have to add a signal from the reversing light circuit to this “device”.
After a month I want to share my impressions. The first week, it was unusual, even annoying, I reassured myself that I could turn it off at any moment by unplugging the connector.
And then... It's such a thrill! This is the “correct turn signal”! I often maneuver in traffic and always blink my turn signal. It’s much more pleasant to do this with an “extension cord.”
During the May holidays, I drove 750 km along roads near Moscow (and Kaluga) - so convenient! If you delay the maneuver and feel that you won’t be able to complete it in “three blinks,” you poke again and the time is extended by another “three blinks.”
Now I can’t imagine how I used to live without this? And just... one microcircuit!
And I also want to note one point: who among us does not dream of a vacation, relaxation, or travel. We all need rest, sometimes we just want to get ready, quit work and go, for example, on a tour to Spain from Moscow
. They say Spain has excellent tourism, go on vacation for a couple of weeks and return cheerful, rested and full of energy.
Communities › LED Tuning › Blog › Running turn signal, DRL
Hello everyone, I came across a very interesting article about running turn signals and DRLs. The article is not mine, I’ll post a link to the source below. The circuit is built on an Arduino MK, there is nothing complicated about it.
A very interesting design that allows you to greatly enhance your turn signals. For power supply you need a 12 => 5 volt converter. You can use a basic mobile phone charger.
The positive wire from the operating turn signals is connected to pins 5 and 6 of the controller through a voltage divider made of resistors. Buttons for additional controller operating modes are connected in a similar way.
Firmware for the controller To flash the firmware, you need a USB cable and a computer or laptop.
Download a NEW sketch in which the number of diodes varies variably count here.
You can download the finished sketch in a file using this link.
How to flash Arduino, there are already thousands of excellent posts, so I will leave a link where everything is described in detail.
I will leave all the code below #include // connect the Adafruit_NeoPixel library strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(7, 7, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800); //Initialize the first turn signal 7 diodes on the 7th digital output Adafruit_NeoPixel strip2 = Adafruit_NeoPixel(7, 8, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800); //Initialize the second turn signal 7 diodes on the 8th digital output void setup() pinMode(3, INPUT); pinMode(4, INPUT); pinMode(5, INPUT); pinMode(6, INPUT); strip.begin(); strip.show(); strip2.begin(); strip2.show(); > void loop() if ((digitalRead(5) == HIGH) and (digitalRead(6) == HIGH)) //Alarm mode if a plus comes to pins 5 and 6 for(int k = 0; k
Link to original source: tyts
Extension function
A curtsy allows, after a single blink of the direction indicators on one side, to produce a series of blinks of the direction indicators of the same side. The number of flashes in a series is determined by the “number of extension flashes” parameter, and the series itself is called an extension or extension function. During extension, the following situations are possible: - the opposite side direction indicator switch is pressed: in this case, the start of the opposite side direction indicator blinking will interrupt the extension. — the alarm button is pressed: in this case, the extension will be interrupted. — the turn signal switch of the same side is pressed: in this case, three development options are possible, which are determined by the “reaction when turning on the current side” parameter. The values of the “reaction when the current side is turned on” parameter and the actions that they determine: 0—completion of extension; 1 — continuation of extension with setting the subsequent number of blinks in the series equal to the value of the “number of extension blinks” parameter; 2 — continuation of extension with setting the subsequent number of blinks in the series equal to twice the value of the “number of extension blinks” parameter;
Curtsey Device
The extension cord is built on the basis of a microcontroller, made on a board measuring 11mm x 33mm, filled with water-repellent sealant and placed in a heat-shrinkable tube.
The extension is controlled using the direction indicator switches. Control includes: selecting operating modes and changing various parameters in programming mode. All parameters that determine the operation of the extender are stored in non-volatile memory.
The progress of the extension cord is indicated by two LEDs of different colors.
Additional modes (Curtsy-plus)
Since we started selling Reverence, we have been approached with requests to expand its functionality. We took into account the wishes of our customers and introduced the following additional modes:
Tow mode
SOS mode
Escort mode. Planned use - escort on the highway, for example: athletes, oversized cargo, slow-moving objects, etc.
Emergency braking mode. If the universal input (see below) is programmed as an input from the vehicle speed sensor, then during heavy braking this mode is activated. The sudden braking threshold must be adjusted individually in programming mode
Alternative function thanks. If it is set: the thank you function is disabled, then it is possible to issue an alternative thank you function. It is possible to start using a button connected to the “SOUND/RESET/BUTTON” input (see connection diagram for Curtsy-plus). The display shows the parameter value number of flashes of the alternative thank you function = 1.
BUY NOW
CHARACTERISTICS
- supply voltage - from 9 to 20 volts
- rated power of each output (comm. 12 volts) - 65 W
- maximum power of each output (comm. 12 volts) - 85 W
- operating temperature range - from -40 to +85
- current consumed by the device - no more than 1mA (0.001A)
- size – 35mm x 25mm x 3mm
- weight - 6.5g
EQUIPMENT
FULL SET - ready-to-install device with additional elements in the set:
The set is packed in a polyethylene Zip bag. For delivery by postal services, the kit is additionally packaged in a hard cardboard box with bubble wrap. It is possible to pack more than one set in one box.
ASSEMBLED BOARD - assembled and stitched board of the Comfort turn signals device:
Installation requires soldering five wires to the board. This assembly kit does not include wires or ties and allows you to choose how to install it into your car yourself. The set is packed in a polyethylene Zip bag. For delivery by postal services, the kit is additionally packaged in a hard cardboard box with bubble wrap. It is possible to pack more than one set in one box.
Video from our client on setting up and using the device:
Extension function overview:
Video of work on SUZUKI Grand Vitara:
