Connector for power window switches Kalina (2 buttons) 10 terminals assembled with wires

Lada Kalina Lux (11174, 11184, 11194). Electrical circuits - part 5

DIAGRAM OF ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS OF THE ADDITIONAL REAR RIGHT WIRING HARNESS (RIGHT FRONT DOOR WIRING HARNESS) OF LADA KALINA 11174, 11184, 11194 CARS

List of elements: 1 — additional rear right wiring harness block to the rear wiring harness block;

2 — right mirror;

3 — additional rear right wiring harness connectors to the front right loudspeaker connectors;

4 — electric motor for window lift of the right front door;

5 — right front lock;

6 — power window switch. Additional rear right wiring harness - 11186-3724550.

DIAGRAM OF ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS OF THE ADDITIONAL REAR LEFT WIRING HARNESS (LEFT FRONT DOOR WIRING HARNESS) OF LADA KALINA 11174,11184, 11194 CARS

List of elements: 1 — additional rear left wiring harness block to the rear wiring harness block;

2 — left mirror;

3 — additional rear left wiring harness connectors to the front left loudspeaker connectors;

4 — electric motor for window lift of the left front door;

5 — front left lock;

6 — driver's door module. Additional rear left wiring harness - 11186-3724551.

DIAGRAM OF ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS OF THE ADDITIONAL REAR RIGHT (REAR DOORS) WIRING HARNESS FOR LADA KALINA 11174, 11184, 11194 CARS

List of elements: 1 — additional rear right wiring harness block to the rear wiring harness block;

2 — electric motor for window lift of the right rear door;

3 — right rear door lock;

4 — power window switch. Additional rear right wiring harness - 11186-3724550-10.

DIAGRAM OF ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS OF REAR AUXILIARY WIRING HARNESS (TRUNK LID WIRING HARNESS) AND WIRING HARNESS OF LICENSE PLATE LIGHTS OF LADA KALINA 11184 CAR

List of elements: 1 — rear additional left wiring harness block to the rear wiring harness block;

2 — block to the trunk locking motor;

3 — trunk lock;

4 — rear additional left wiring harness block to the wiring harness block of the license plate lights;

5, 6 — license plate lights. Rear additional left wiring harness (trunk lid wiring harness) - 1118-3724558.

The model of the domestic manufacturer is extremely in demand among car enthusiasts in Russia and the CIS countries. This is due to its moderate cost and ease of maintenance. However, a characteristic disadvantage of the car is unreliable wiring. The standard Kalina pinout is made in the form of 4 separate zones, united into a single whole by connecting harnesses.

The front part is a “web” that combines the battery, dashboard, generator and optics.
The instrument panel bundle is arranged to connect the front and rear compartments with the ECM, fuses and the instrument itself.
The aft branch contains outputs from consumers in the doors, aft dimensions, license plate lighting, and trunk lid.
The fourth section is responsible for powering the engine management system. This is where the ECU meets the relays and fuses. Sensors with instruments and indicators are also connected.

It should be noted that some design elements are interchangeable with other VAZ models. If any component fails, it is allowed to use components from other modifications of the automaker to repair the car.

Reasons for poor performance

Glass distortion. Often the reason for poor performance is not the window lifting mechanism itself, but a violation of the position of the glass relative to its guides. This can happen either due to the bracket fastening being unscrewed, or the damp rubber fixing the glass in the holder has ceased to perform its functions. This option occurs much less frequently. Contamination of the guide rubbers. The glass moves inside the grooves formed by the rubber bands. These grooves tend to become clogged with dirt. It, like an abrasive, increases the friction force, which creates resistance to glass movement. The window lift mechanism is dirty. During operation, drivers do not realize that maintenance is also necessary inside the doors. This is especially true for the cable mechanism. Over the years, not only does contamination occur, but also the lubricant of the mechanism and cables dry out, which increases the friction force. The front left window regulator fails faster due to more frequent use. The next reason is wear of the plastic teeth of the mechanism drive. In this case, when you press the control button, you can hear the electric motor running, but the glass does not move. Broken cables. This occurs due to attempts to open frozen windows. With repeated loads exceeding the rated ones, the cables begin to delaminate and gradually fail.

Electrical reasons can be reduced to either a short circuit or loss of contact in the VAZ-2114 power window circuit.

Pinout of the VAZ 2114 window lifter button

Wiring diagram of power windows Lada Kalina 2

Left door wiring harness diagram : 1 - block to the rear wiring harness; 2 — electric window lifter motor; 3 — door lock; 4 — switch block; 5 - to the speaker; 6 - mirror.

Wiring harness diagram for the right front door : 1 - block to the rear wiring harness; 2 — electric window lifter motor; 3 — door lock; 4 — window lift button; 5 - to the speaker; 6 - mirror.

Rear door wiring harness diagram : 1 - block to the rear wiring harness; 2 - speaker; 3 — door lock; 4 — window lift button; 5 - electric window lift motor.

We check the quality of work

As you can see, this work is not at all difficult, it can be done independently, saving a lot of money on a car service, which will charge you a tidy sum for it.

In addition, since we had to remove the door trim, we can also carry out sound insulation, which in the Lada Kalina is also not at the highest level.

At the end, a small bonus on how to make the power windows work without the ignition.

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Ignition system diagram Lada Kalina Lux

1 — oil pressure warning lamp sensor; 2 — coolant temperature indicator sensor; 3 — additional fuse block; 4 — fuses for the electric fan of the engine cooling system; 5 — electric fuel pump relay; 6 — relay for the electric fan of the engine cooling system; 7 - ignition relay; 8 — relay 2 of the electric fan of the engine cooling system; 9 — relay 3 of the electric fan of the engine cooling system; 10 — electric fan of the engine cooling system; 11 — throttle position sensor; 12 — idle speed regulator; 13 — coolant temperature sensor; 14 — diagnostic block; 15 — ignition system harness block to the instrument panel harness block; 16 — solenoid valve for purge of the adsorber; 17 — speed sensor; 18 — ignition system harness block to instrument panel harness block 2; 19 — mass air flow sensor; 20 — crankshaft position sensor; 21 — oxygen sensor; 22 - controller; 23 — rough road sensor; 24 — diagnostic oxygen sensor; 25 — ignition coil harness block to the ignition system harness block; 26 — ignition coils: 27 — ignition system harness block to the ignition coil harness block; 28 — spark plugs; 29 — nozzles; 30 - resistor; 31 — air conditioning system pressure sensor; 32 — blocks of the ignition system harness and injector wiring harness; 33 - phase sensor; 34 - knock sensor.

Ignition system wiring harness -11184-3724026-10. Ignition coil wiring harness -1118-3724148-00. Injector wiring harness -11184-3724036. A - to the “plus” terminal of the battery.

Some owners of the 2nd generation Lada Kalina encounter problems with the operation of the front or rear power windows (ESP) already during the break-in period of the car. There may be several reasons for this malfunction; all of them are described in this article.

Kalina ESP buttons on VAZ 2110

There are two types of Kalinovsky ESP buttons: low-current (multiplex) and power. To install low-current ESP buttons, you will need to install an electrical package control unit/electrical package controller (2170-3763040). This will also allow you to close the doors and windows of the car with the key (the control is built into the key), there will be a two-stage door opening, and the ability to control electric mirrors and door locks from the power window unit. In the case of ESP power buttons, everything is much simpler, no additional control units are required. You just need to connect the buttons correctly.

Remember the main thing: power buttons are produced by Avar, and multiplex buttons are produced by Itelma.

Installation of the Kalina window lifter unit on a VAZ 2110

motor in driver's door

By the way, it is not at all necessary to pull thick wires through the door if you install a glass closer (for example, beta10, which has thin low-current inputs).

Photo source: Key words:

Two configurations and two schemes

In the “Norma” version, if it has a central locking system, you can use two control wires. Ground is supplied to one of them if the locks need to be opened, and to the second one if the locks need to be closed. The period of connection to ground should take 0.7 seconds, and most alarms have such a setting.

If we talk about the “Lux” configuration, the control wires will not help us here. The relay contacts built into the alarm will have to be connected to the breaks in the power cords. Despite all the complexity, there were no complaints about this scheme, and we will consider it right now.

The “luxury” option is the most complex

First you need to make sure that the central locking system in the car is really connected according to the “Lux” scheme. The control button located on the door must be trigger (non-latching). If you have exactly this type of car, you will have to tinker. It will be necessary to extend 4 power cables to the signaling unit. These cords, in turn, must go from the break point of the two standard wires (yellow-white and yellow-black). Find them in the bundle under the threshold.

Any alarm system is supplied with two relays, one of which is activated for closing, the second for unlocking the locks. Power cables drawn from the break points are connected to the relay contacts.

The part of the yellow-white wire that goes to the actuators is connected to the common contact. Another relay contact (normally closed) is connected to the second half of the cable. They connect to the yellow-black wire in a similar way, but here an opening relay is used, not a locking one. Each of the normally open contacts receives power.

Any power wiring is supplied with power through a fuse.

In our case, the rating “15 Amperes” is used. Immediately before installation, you need to call the pair of wires that are directed to the actuators. The probe should show a value of 1.2 - 1.3 Ohms. And of course, when performing installation work, you first need to remove the negative terminal from the battery. Be careful!

Connection option for “Norma”

Let's say there is a switch in the driver's door, but it has two fixed positions. Then it will be easy to connect the alarm. You will need to make not 4, but 2 taps, and not from the power cords, but from two signal cords. There is no need to make breaks, just make a T-shaped connection. The diagram here looks standard:

You can complete the installation without breaking the wires at all.

In the circuit discussed above, there is no fuse. We connected to the signal wiring, not the power wiring, and theoretically we can not be afraid of any short circuits. Still, it is better to insulate the free terminals on the signaling. The same applies to all connection points.

Steps from “Norma” to “Lux”. Part 1. — Lada Kalina Sedan, 1.6 l., 2006 on DRIVE2

Good day, FRIENDS.

It all started when I broke the passenger rear view mirror. And since I never liked them, this is an excellent reason for Tuning))

I chose mirrors from Granta Liftback, with electric drive, heating, and collars.

Mirrors.

To connect the electric drive I decided to use the ESP control unit from Kalina Lux

ESP control unit

I know that there are extra hemorrhoids, and that it could have been done simpler. BUT! I want to do everything well, as close to standard as possible! Well, rear windows are planned in the near future! But as it turned out, this block communicates with the comfort block via one wire, which is not supported by the comfort block from Norma. I decided to replace the standard block with a block from Lux. They have different connectors, which means you will have to redistribute the contacts. After reading the Internet I found these diagrams.

Comfort Block Diagram Standards

Full size

Luxury Comfort Block Diagram

XP1 1st - ? — New — To the ESP engine of the front-right door. 2nd - ? — New — +/- on all doors. 3rd - Yellow - from pin 14 - To the motors for closing all doors (to all doors). 4th - Orange-Black - New - to the ESP engine of the rear-right door. - No need for a while. 5th - Red-Blue - from the 17th contact - opening the passenger doors. 6th - Black - from the 6th contact - To Ground. 7th - ? — New — to the ESP engine of the rear-left door. - No need for a while. 8th - Blue - from pin 24 - Control of starboard turn signals. 9th - Red - from pin 23 - to terminal 30 (+12V?) 10th - Reserved 11th - ? — New — +/- in the driver’s and rear left door and trunk. 12th - Black - wire from pin 6 - To Ground. 13th - Green-black - New - connect the ESP of the front-left door to the engine. 14th - Blue-Black - from the 16th contact - Control of the left side turn signals. 15th - Red - from pin 23 - to terminal 30 (+12V?)

XP2 1st - Pink-Red - from pin 19 - to the trunk opening motor. 2nd - Reserve 3rd - ? — New — To the power window button of the Rear-Right door. - No need for a while. 4th - White-Black - from pin 25 - Trunk opening limit switch. 5th - ? — New — Passenger mirror up and down. 6th - Red-black - from pin 18 - Opening the driver's door. 7th - Brown-Red - from the 11th contact - Front right door limit switch. 8th - ? — New — Illuminated power window buttons. 9th - ? — New — Passenger mirror left and right. 10th - Red-Blue - from the 15th contact - K-Lin bus. 11th - ? — New — ESP button for the front-right door. 12th - ? — New — ESP button for the rear-left door. - No need for a while. 13th - Gray - from the 5th contact - Heated rear window. 14th - Reserve 15th - Reserve 16th - White-Red - from the 10th contact - Opening the rear doors. 17th - Reserve 18th - Black and White - from the 9th contact - Opening the hood. 19th - Reserve 20th - to the siren - No need.

XP3 - Not used

Attention Questions: - Has anyone ever engaged in such masturbation? Or am I the first to decide on this? — In the diagrams there is a reference to Terminal 30, does anyone know what kind of terminal this is? I'm guessing it's a constant +12V, am I right? — The normal unit is connected to terminal 71 of the ECM/terminal 18 of the APS, but the Lux unit does not seem to be connected to the controller at all, or am I missing something? — The normal unit was connected to the instrument cluster (Terminal 8), but the Lux unit is not connected to the combination at all, do I need to connect it and where? — The standard unit has an output for the rear window heating relay, but the luxury unit does not, will it work? Or how is control implemented in Lux? — If anyone can help with the color palette in the lux connector, I would be grateful

Electrical equipment Lada Kalina

KALINA

repair

electrical equipment

Car electrical diagram

Diagnostics of electrical equipment of VAZ 1117 Kalina. VAZ 1118 Kalina car diagrams, wiring, electric motors VAZ 1119 Lada Kalina.

Electrical circuit diagram of a car Repair of components of the electrical circuit diagram Lada Kalina do-it-yourself repair Lada electrical equipment, design and maintenance

Electrical diagram of a Lada Kalina car: 1 - right headlight; 2 — hood open sensor; 3 — sound signal; 4 - starter; 5 - battery; 6 - generator; 7 — windshield wiper gear motor; 8 — left headlight; 9 — right front door power window switch; 10 — motor-reducer for window lifter of the right front door; 11 — connection blocks to the right front speaker; 12 — electric drive for locking the lock of the right front door; 13 — windshield washer electric motor; 14 — ambient temperature sensor; 15 — block for connecting the wiring harness of the engine control system; 16 — electric drive for locking the left front door lock; 17 — brake fluid level sensor; 18 — connection blocks to the left front speaker; 19 — power window switch for the right front door, located on the driver’s door; 20 — left front door power window switch; 21 — door lock switch; 22 — motor-reducer for window lifter of the right front door; 23 — mounting block; 24 — control unit for the automobile anti-theft system; 25 — security alarm control unit; 26 — instrument cluster; 27 — right side turn signal; 28 — glove box lighting lamp; 29 — switch for the glove compartment lighting lamp; 30 — brake signal switch; 31 — ignition switch with transponder of the automobile anti-theft system; 32 — control unit for external lighting, instrument lighting and headlight beam direction control; 33 — steering column switch; 34 — left side direction indicator; 35 — connection blocks to the right rear speaker; 36 — electric drive for locking the right rear door; 37 — rear window heating switch; 38 — reverse lock switch; 39 — alarm switch; 40 — heater fan operating mode switch; 41 — additional resistor of the heater fan electric motor; 42 — heater fan electric motor; 43 — connection blocks to the left rear speaker; 44 — electric drive for locking the left rear door; 45 — electric fuel pump with fuel level indicator sensor; 46 — reverse light switch; 47 — parking brake warning switch; 48 — cigarette lighter; 49 — reverse lock solenoid; 50 — connection blocks to the head unit of the sound reproduction system; 51 — backlight lamps for the ventilation and heating system control unit; 52 — electric power steering control unit; 53 — interior lamp; 54 — right rear light; 55 — electric drive for locking the trunk lock; 56 — trunk light switch, built into the trunk lid lock; 57 — license plate lights; 58 - additional brake signal; 59 — rear window heating element; 60 — trunk light; 61 - left rear light. This diagram does not show the connection points and wiring harness terminals.

Vehicle Maintenance

It is recommended to replace any parts in the car only with original ones. Compliance with this requirement will eliminate subsequent unscheduled repairs. If Kalina's power window button requires servicing, then first you will need to find the necessary tools.

Using 2 small flathead screwdrivers, you need to remove the block from the grooves. Direct replacement is carried out without sudden movements, so as not to break fragile elements. As soon as it becomes possible to get to the wiring, you need to get rid of the plug with equal care. This can be done with little physical effort. A latch is used to disconnect the second plug.

After the glass power supply is removed, it must be inspected. The presence of any mechanical damage indicates the need for mandatory replacement. Even in-depth repairs will not help restore its functionality. Before installing a new unit, another check must be carried out. Its relevance increases when it comes to replacing a relay.

After removing the faulty part, you should manually check all connecting fasteners and wires. Traces of charring or damage are a sign that the Kalina power window button most likely needs to be replaced. If this is not done, then the need for repeated repairs will arise within 2-3 months. This is due to the increased load on the Lada window regulator.

Installation of a working unit occurs strictly in the reverse order. First, carefully connect the wires and 2 plugs. If the window lift button has been manipulated in any way, the reliability of its fixation must be checked manually. If a visual inspection does not reveal any problems, then the Kalina window lifter button is placed in its place.

Once all the wires are connected, the unit is secured using the provided latches. The repair is completed by checking the efficiency of the system.

You need to pay attention to the smoothness of the ride and the absence of the slightest delays. In the future, if the window regulator on Kalina does not work, you can fix the problem yourself

back Brake pads Lada Kalina

Forward Windshield wiper trapezoid Lada Kalina

Tags control unit, repair, window lifter, maintenance

Relay location

The relays are in the same block as the fuses.

K1 - headlight washer . If the washers stop working and this relay is working properly, check their nozzles. Sometimes they become clogged or damaged.

K2 - electric windows . Check this relay together with fuse F2. See F2 for troubleshooting.

Short circuit - starter relay . If you turn the ignition key and the starter does not turn, it may be the relay. Check its contacts and clean them if necessary. Next, you need to check the battery terminals so that there is reliable contact between them, and if necessary, clean them. Also check the contact group of the ignition switch, there may be no contact there.

K4 - additional relay, rear window defroster, heater switch, wiper and washer switch .

K5 - relay-breaker for turn signals and hazard warning lights . If the direction indicators or hazard lights do not work, check this relay together with fuses F1 and F3.

K6 - windshield wiper relay . Check together with fuse F4.

K7 - high beam relay . Check together with fuses F14 and F15.

K8 - sound signal . Check together with fuse F6.

K9 - fog lights . Check together with fuses F16 and F17.

K10 - heated rear window . Also check relay K4 and fuses F4 and F8.

K11 - heated seats . Also check fuse F18.

K12 - reserve.

odessit April 07, 2014

From one edge, preferably from the back, carefully pry it up in the middle with a flat-head screwdriver and pull it out a little upwards. The rest you will see how simple it is. Just don't try too hard.

Just not in the back, there is a special hard shelf, but in the front, there are spring-like latches. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry, not even pry, but insert, between the panel and the block and try to move the screwdriver a little back, press these antennae, and at the same time pull the block up.

It’s from behind that it pulls out for me.

Here are the photos - the real one and the 3D model. The tapering part is the front, there are springs-tendrils, the wide part is the back, there is a rigid shelf, the door panel goes into it.

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Damn, the photo didn't upload, but you can see it from the model. With some effort, you can pull it out through the butt. But through in front is more correct.

Window control unit Kalina

Sometimes, during the run-in phase of the car, the power window control unit begins to malfunction; Kalina is no exception in this case. Often such a block simply refuses to move the rear or front windows in space. There are many reasons for this. The most common are assembly defects and operating errors. In any of these cases, you can independently diagnose Kalina's power windows.

Analysis of the current situation

Drivers with basic skills in working with tools will understand what needs to be done if the power window on a Kalina does not work. First you need to check the installed fuse and relay in the mounting block. The diagram supplied with the official vehicle operating instructions designates the indicated elements as F2 (25 A) and K2, respectively. If the problem could not be detected, then the inspection is transferred to the terminals of the electric motor of the Lada Kalina.

To do this, you need to carefully remove the door trim. A multimeter or a 12 V test lamp will help you find out the exact voltage level. If the terminals show no voltage, you need to check the most likely culprits of a possible malfunction. In the first place is the window lift button, followed by wiring and connectors.

The absence of noticeable signs of malfunction here requires checking the power window control unit

It is important to make one reservation: for a vehicle presented in the luxury configuration, it is necessary to inspect the central body electronics unit (CBEC). The fault diagnosis procedure ends with a conclusion about the passage of current to the electric motor or its absence

If there is current, but no movement of the Kalina windows is observed, a possible cause should be looked for in the areas described below:

glass distortion;
glass clamp;
the window lift cable is torn or frayed;
wear of the glass drive motor shield;
drive motor shield retraction;

Further actions are based on the nature of the identified malfunction. In the worst case scenario, replacing a broken or worn part will take 70 minutes. It all depends on the experience of the car owner and the actual breakdown. For example, removing and installing a new relay will take about an hour.

Vehicle Maintenance

You watched

A new photo report on the installation of FORWARD electric windows in the rear doors of the Lada Priora was prepared by our buyer - Alexander Vyacheslavovich Aleksashin from Moscow, as part of participation in our promotion. I finally got to the back doors of my swallow to replace the old window regulators with new FORWARD brands, which I purchased from the Steklopodem online store. RF.

Since I was already experienced in installation matters, I stocked up on clips for the inner plastic of the door, gauze tape and a set of keys.

Let's disassemble the door. Unlike the front door, the rear door is even easier to disassemble: - unscrew one self-tapping screw in the area of the door opening handle; - unscrew the two hexagons in the area of the window lift button; - unscrew the lock locking latch; - and that’s all.

Next, unclip the power window button, disconnect the plug and remove the plastic door trim.

We fix the glass with gauze tape and disconnect the power terminal of the window lift motor.

We move on to the window lift mechanism itself, which is secured with 4 bolts, unscrew them and unscrew the 2 bolts that connect the glass frame and the window lift carriage.

Next, with a little difficulty, we remove the window lift mechanism; here it is a little more difficult to get it out of the door than from the front.

We install the FORWARD rack and pinion lift, which fits very easily and simply through the door, just like through the front ones.

We connect the motor power plug and check its operation.

We install the window lifter mechanism in the standard holes. You can say they get up on their own.

We secure the mechanism with 2 bolts securing the glass and tighten the remaining 2 nuts of the mechanism itself.

Once again we check the operation of the window regulator, while securing the glass to the rack and pinion mechanism.

We put the door trim plastic back in place, replacing the damaged clips, and with “light, smooth movements” we secure it by screwing back the self-tapping screw and two hexagons.

Everyone's collected! Everything works great, better than the standard mechanism 500 times!

I am delighted with the FORWARD window lifters. The whole process of work took about 40 minutes for two doors.

Once again we thank Alexander for preparing the photo report and, as part of our promotion, we are transferring the promised prize to his mobile phone account.

You can buy FORWARD electric windows for LADA Priora (rear doors) in our online store

Schematic electrical diagrams, connecting devices and pinouts of connectors

Electric windows (ESP) are convenient devices for controlling the side windows of a car, which are controlled by a special button and make it possible to lower or raise the side windows without rotating the previously used handles. This option is provided only in some modifications of the VAZ car, but nothing prevents you from purchasing a ready-made unit and installing it yourself.

The most preferred are rack-type ESPs, so as an example we will describe the process of their installation.

The connection diagram for the window regulator on a VAZ-2110 car is as follows:

remove the negative terminal from the car battery to stop the supply of voltage to the on-board power supply network;
we take the wires that come standard with rack-and-pinion window lifts and make a kind of harness out of them that makes connection easy;
remove the car mounting block, which will require unscrewing the self-tapping screw that secures the special latch;
turn the block over and carefully install block Ш1 of the pre-prepared wiring harness into the corresponding connector;
dismantle the door trim;
we pull the wires to the electric window drive. To do this, you will need to carefully pass them through the holes in the door itself and the body pillar on the desired side.

How to check if the window lift motor is working

Kalina. There are cases when the owners of these cars are faced with the problem of non-working power windows. There are quite a few reasons for this defect: a fuse and relay could burn out, a wire could break, a failure in the device’s control unit, or mechanical failure in the mechanism itself.

VAZ 2110. After the necessary checks of the electrical circuit section, making sure that the VAZ 2110 mechanism has stopped working, then the problem may be in it.

It can be fixed as follows: remove the motor, pull out the rotor. Then you need to clean the carbon deposits using sandpaper.

The second problem can be caused by a mechanical effect, which occurs as follows: a buzzing sound after the window has been opened and it remains in place. This problem occurs due to gears. In this case, it needs to be changed, just select the same part.

If you start to close a window and it starts jumping or jerking, it could be warped or debris could get in there. In this case, the parts must be lubricated, and then the adjustable mechanism must be adjusted.

VAZ 2114. There are few reasons for the power window not working on the VAZ 2114:

Contact connections have oxidized.
One or more controls are broken.
Power failure.

In most cases, parts can be repaired, but in extremely difficult situations, all that remains is to replace them with a new device.

Priora. If there is no voltage, then:

This may be a breakdown of the power window control unit.
The problem is in the connection of the wires.
CBKE failure.

Source

Let's look at the diagram for switching on power windows on the Lada Kalina

Diagram (click to enlarge)

The decoding of the notation looks like this:

Is it the motor or the mechanics that is at fault?

If everything in the electrical part is functional, then it is necessary to look for the cause in the mechanical part. To do this, you will have to dismantle and diagnose the window regulator. Let's look at how to remove this node:

We dismantle the door card.

Door card removed

It is worth inspecting the removed window regulator for damage.

Removing the window motor

The most common malfunction is wear of the roller teeth or breakage of the traction cable. These parts need to be replaced, but often the entire mechanical part of the window regulator is replaced.

Diagnostics of the window lifter trapezoid

"Kalina" and replacement of the window regulator

First you need to purchase a gearbox. Now they are sold in the same housing with the motor. Then the sheathing is done. Experts do not recommend performing this operation outdoors on a frosty day in winter, since the Kalina’s casing is secured to soft plastic pistons. If a fastener element falls off, you will have to glue it. Then you should unscrew the screws and other fasteners that hold the internal opening handle. The wiring harness and the speakers are disconnected.

The next step is to unscrew the glass itself, which is held in the guides. You need to unscrew the four bolts with a 10mm wrench. As a result, the glass will drop to the bottom. You should also remove the curtain that is attached to the bottom of the glass unit. The window regulator itself is secured with 4 nuts on the left and 4 on the right on the guides. The gear motor is also held in place by three nuts.

The block is dismantled through technological holes. This is a carriage and two guides. The gearbox control cable is passed through the latter. There are rings on the cable in two places, attached to the carriages.

The gearbox consists of two parts connected by studs. If the latter are unscrewed, the motor will fall apart into two parts. One contains a motor with a gear. The other part is a drum with special grooves.

After replacing the gearbox, you need to reassemble everything in the reverse order and you can enjoy the reanimated mechanism. The gear motor is inexpensive and replacing it is quite simple.

Before assembly, you must carefully inspect and lubricate the cable. If after this the driver's window lifter does not work on the Kalina car, then it is recommended to check the amplifier tube. In order for the glass to go down completely, the rubber bumpers are shortened.

Step-by-step installation of power windows

The cable is inspected for damage and generously coated with lubricant. The new mechanism is inserted into the drum with the shaft forward. The mounting holes are aligned, and the damper studs are tightened. If the front windows do not go down completely, then inspect the power window amplifier tube of the Lada Kalina.

The last element is located on the outside of the glass. In order for it to lower without problems, you will need to shorten the rubber bumpers of the window lifter. To do this, use wire cutters. The elastic band is shortened by 1 cm. The cable is lubricated and moved to another position. The window control unit and the gear motor are assembled in reverse order.

How to get to the gearbox

If the gearbox operates in the other direction, then the polarity changes. To do this, the pins are pulled out of the connector. They are inserted into the corresponding recesses using a thin screwdriver. Disassembling the window regulator of the Lada Kalina will allow you to clean the seal from dust and dirt, lubricate the lock well, and treat the inner lower part of the door with anticorrosive. If possible, sound insulation is installed.

Design and types of window lifters

Kalina front window lift

Window regulators are a device designed to raise or lower car windows.

At the moment, there are a huge number of options for these devices, but the design, despite the differences in component parts for different models, is similar, it includes:

grooves that hold the glass by the side edges
so-called “rails” that ensure the movement of glass
Seal and damper, glass movement limiters in the up and down direction.

A window regulator of any design consists of two main elements:

drive unit
lifting mechanism - transmitting vibrations of the drive movement to the glass, and thereby ensuring its movement.

The drive is divided into two types:

Mechanical, known to us from Soviet cars, where in order to lower or raise the window, you need to turn the window lifter handle.
Electric, typical of modern cars, where to move the glass you just need to press the window button. The electric drive consists of a reversible electric motor with a worm-type gearbox.

In addition, window regulators differ depending on the mechanism of glass movement:

Each option has its pros and cons and technical features. All these device options have one thing in common: one day they fail; this problem especially often occurs in a model that is so popular today as the Lada Kalina.

There can be dozens of reasons why power windows malfunction, but the most common are the following:

The commutator brushes of the electric motor, which is responsible for the glass movement process, freeze. This happens, as a rule, due to overheating of fragile graphite brushes, unstable to sudden temperature fluctuations, and this factor starts a chain reaction: overheating of the brushes begins to melt the nest, which is made of plastic in all Kalinas, and not of the best quality. For this reason, the brushes lose mobility, and the device can only be brought into working condition using a hammer. At the initial stage of the breakdown, it is enough to give a good knock or two on the door trim, but after a couple of weeks, this method stops working, and then you will have to disassemble the window regulator to repair it.
Another cause of failure, typical of the Lada Kalina, as well as many other VAZ models, is the ill-conceived electrical circuit. The contacts cannot withstand the load placed on them, there is no unloading relay, which is why all the window regulators fail at once, and then it is necessary to repair not only the window regulators themselves, but also the remote control.

When it is impossible or too problematic to repair the device, it is more advisable to replace it with a new one. The following options are suitable for the Lada Kalina:

electric window lifter Garnet VAZ – 530 rub.
electric window regulator Ningbo – RUB 1,699
electric window lift AUTO-GEO – RUB 3,300.

Of course, the price is directly related to quality, but if the budget is limited, then the domestic option is not bad.

Now let's talk about how to install window regulators yourself.

Glass closer Pandora DWM

Connection diagram for the passenger door button in series through a duplicate button on the driver's door. Contacts 1-6 and 7-3 are always normally closed. When you press the up button, contacts 1-6 open and 1-2 close (window rises). When you press the down button, contacts 7-3 open and 7-2 closes (window down). The 30th contact of a 5-pin relay, without supplying voltage to the winding contacts, is constantly shorted to contact 88, which gives us the necessary negative contact (works like a switch). If voltage is applied to the winding, then contact 30 is disconnected from contact 88 and connected to contact 87. Contact 86 of the winding is connected to ground.

Reasons for failure

The window regulator consists of mechanics and electrics, and therefore the reasons must be sought in these parts. Let's look at where the problem may lie:

A fuse has blown or a relay has broken.

The relay can be replaced with a jumper as in the photo. But remember that this is a temporary option, be sure to change the relay in case of breakdown

There is a breakdown in the wires or the chip has come off.

Tap to the left of the button, then try pressing the button. If it works, then the contact between the wire and the button is to blame.

Problems with the power window control unit. Mechanical failure within the part itself.

All these reasons can lead to the fact that one or both window regulators may not work.

Troubleshooting Methods

So, when the window regulator stops working, it is necessary to find and eliminate the cause. Let's look at the whole process and steps step by step:

The first thing you need to pay attention to is the fuse. In the block it is marked as F5

You need to take it out and look. If it burns out, it should be replaced with the same one with the appropriate marking. If the fuse is intact, then the problem is in the power supply and you need to look for the problem of a broken wire. We take out the fuse and use a tester to check whether there is voltage in the on-board circuit. To do this, you need to insert the probes into the sockets and see if there is power supply. If not, then you should check the wires, relays, and control unit.

Prevention

As a measure to prevent breakdowns, experienced specialists recommend periodically performing maintenance on electrical circuits. This requires a complete review of all wires and disconnectors twice a year for damage to the braiding and oxidation of copper contacts. Damaged parts or loose joints must be replaced with new ones.

Also, advice from “experienced” motorists speaks of the rationality of treating parts with special dielectric oil - this prevents air and moisture from entering sensitive areas and significantly increases the service life of devices.

The pinout of panels of the Kalina car from Lada is distinguished by its simplicity and reliability. There are no complex controllers or blocks here. Consequently, system maintenance and troubleshooting do not require in-depth knowledge of electronics or expensive tools.

Complete information on the electrical equipment of the Lada Kalina car, including the following modifications: VAZ 1118 - 5-door sedan (2004 to 2011), VAZ 1119 - hatchback (since 2006) and VAZ 1117 - station wagon. Also reviewed is the Lada Kalina Sport, a sporty version of the hatchback produced since 2008. There are diagrams of all blocks, including the location of relays and fuses, which allows you to carry out minor repairs of auto electronics and replace burnt-out elements yourself. At the end of the reference book there is a link to a PDF album of schemes.

Electrical faults

The first and most difficult problem with the operation of window regulators is that the brushes get stuck in the commutator of the electric motor, which drives the window raising/lowering mechanism. This happens because during operation of the electric motor the graphite brushes overheat, and the plastic socket in which they are installed melts due to high temperatures. This leads to the fact that the brushes simply stick to the plastic socket. Since AvtoVAZ does not want to give up plastic and replace the socket with a metal one, the car owners themselves will have to modify this design.

Under the influence of high temperatures, when the brushes stick to the walls of the plastic nest, they lose their mobility. When the parts are already slightly worn, they do not reach the collector plates. The spring cannot move the stuck brushes from their place and does not press them against the commutator. This malfunction can only be eliminated with the help of mechanical intervention. According to the owners, (“Kalina”) consists of dismantling the door trim and disassembling the motor itself.

General diagram of electrical equipment of VAZ 1118

1 — block headlight; 2 — windshield wiper gear motor; 3 - generator; 4 - battery; 5 - starter; 6 — sound signal; 7 — hood open sensor; 8 — power window switch for the right front door; 9 — motor-reducer for window lifter of the right front door; 10 — electric pump for windshield washer; 11 — connecting blocks of wires for connecting the right (front) speaker of the audio system; 12 — electric drive for locking the lock of the right front door with an open door sensor; 13 — ambient air temperature sensor; 14 — connecting block of the wiring harness for connection to the engine control system harness; 15 — electric drive for locking the left front door lock (with an open door sensor and a central locking switch); 16 — sensor of insufficient brake fluid level; 17 — connecting blocks of wires for connecting the left (front) speaker of the audio system; 18 — right front door power window switch (installed on the driver’s door); 19 — left front door power window switch; 20 — central locking switch; 21 — motor-reducer for window lifter of the right front door; 22 — remote control unit; 23 — immobilizer control unit (APS-6); 24 — mounting block; 25 — instrument panel; 26 — right side turn signal; 27 — glove box lighting lamp; 28 — switch for the glove compartment lighting lamp; 29 — brake signal switch; 30 — ignition switch (lock); 31 — lighting control unit; 32 — steering column switches; 33 — left side direction indicator; 34 — connecting blocks of wires for connecting the left (rear) speaker of the audio system; 35 — electric drive for locking the left (rear) door with an open door sensor; 36 — electric heater fan; 37 — additional heater resistor; 38 — heater switch; 39 — alarm switch; 40 — reverse lock solenoid switch; 41 — rear window heating switch; 42 — connecting blocks of wires for connecting the right (rear) speaker of the audio system; 43 — electric drive for locking the right rear door lock (with a door open sensor); 44 — fuel module of the engine control system; 45 — reverse light switch; 46 — parking brake warning lamp switch; 47 — cigarette lighter; 48 — reverse lock solenoid; 49 — connecting blocks of wires for connecting the head unit of the audio system; 50 — backlight lamps on the trim of the center console of the instrument panel; 51 — electric power steering control unit; 52 — interior lamp; 53 — rear light; 54 — block for connecting the electric drive for locking the trunk lid lock*; 55 — luggage compartment lid open sensor; 56 — license plate lights; 57 — additional brake light; 58 — rear window heating element; 59 — luggage compartment lighting lamp.

Video “How to change a joint venture with an electric motor on Kalina”

Detailed instructions for completing this task are presented below (the author of the video is In Sandro’s garage).

The question of why the window regulator does not work is often asked by Lada Kalina owners on specialized forums and service stations. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, due to the low reliability of the design. In some cases, the part can be repaired, but in others, all that remains is to remove the non-working window regulator and replace it with a new device. What can cause the mechanism to fail? How to make a replacement? Let's look at these points in detail.

Causes of malfunction

The main reasons why the window regulator does not work on Lada Kalina cars include:

Stuck electric motor brushes. Such a malfunction is possible in case of overheating of the brushes, which do not tolerate sudden temperature changes. As a result of such a negative impact, the plastic socket melts, as well as loss of brush mobility. At the first sign of a problem, knock on the plastic door trim. If you delay this, then you won’t be able to correct the situation with little effort—you’ll have to interfere with the design of the product.
The reason that the window regulator does not work is often the lack of thought through the electrical circuit of the mechanism. The weak link in the chain is the contacts, which cannot withstand the currents passing through them. As a result, the power windows of the Lada Kalina fail due to the lack of a unloading relay. This means that if the mechanism breaks down, repairs to the power windows and control panel may be required.

Practice shows that in most cases, it is not possible to repair the unit, or considerable effort must be made to do so. That's why the best solution is to install new window regulators.

How to remove a window regulator and install a new part

Start work on dismantling the faulty mechanism from the front doors, but to remove the window regulator, free the door from the trim.

To complete the task, do the following:

Raise the glass to the top point and secure it with tape. It does not matter which window lifter the work will be carried out on - the sequence of work will be the same on any front door.
Take a ten-size wrench and unscrew the pair of bolts that hold the glass in place. Also unscrew the lock handle screw from the inside.
Disconnect the electric motor and wiring from the electric motor supply circuit.
Unscrew the eleven nuts on the mechanism, after which you can remove the window regulator.

Video: Replacing the electric window and motor on the Lada Kalina and Grant

If the video does not show, refresh the page or style=”color:#CC3333″>click here

When performing work on the rear doors, the procedure will be almost identical. Do the following:

Raise the glass to the top position and secure it according to the principle discussed above.
Using an eight-socket wrench, unscrew the three nuts that hold the assembly in place.
Take a ten key, unscrew a couple of screws and three more nuts.
Remove the assembly through the hole formed at the bottom of the door.
Remove the rear door window regulator of the Lada Kalina and inspect it.
If the problem can be corrected without replacement, have the device repaired. If the breakdown is fatal, for example, the window lift motor or gear is broken, then installation of a new mechanism is required.

If the window regulator does not work, start by determining the cause of the breakdown, and then decide on the urgency of repairing the mechanism. If the malfunction is serious, the only solution is to remove the Lada Kalina window regulator for restoration work or a complete replacement.

Lada Kalina fuse and relay diagram

The main mounting block for the vehicle's relays and fuses is located on the left side, behind the exterior lighting control panel. By pulling the tab on the left side of the instrument panel, we open the cover of the mounting block.

Diagnostic connector.
15 A. Main relay circuits (winding of the cooling system electric fan relay, canister purge valve, air flow sensor, speed sensor, oxygen concentration sensor, ignition coil).
15 A. Fuel pump, fuel pump fuse.
15 A. Constant power supply circuits of the controller (ECU).

The relays are located in the lower right part of the console, where the fuses for the electric fan of the Lada Kalina cooling system are attached.

Before replacing the fuse, the cause of the blown must be determined and eliminated. To avoid failure of engine control system elements, do not install fuses with an increased current rating or homemade bugs. Sometimes the fuse thread remains intact, while the connection inside the fuse is broken. It is impossible to determine such a malfunction by eye, and then you can assess the condition of the fuse using an ohmmeter.

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Read on the blog

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Video report on replacing the left front window regulator on a Mitsubishi Outlander I

Sometimes, owners of Lada Kalina are faced with a problem when the power windows do not work. One or both may not work at once. But how to find out the reason why this happens? In fact, there are not many reasons and they are quite easy to eliminate.

Priora window lift diagram

Priora window lift diagram, connection features

Despite the fact that the window lifters are controlled in the same way as on previous models, the design of the Priora's window lifters is somewhat different. There is no power window unit on the Priora. The power windows are controlled by the electrical package controller. This was done for ease of control of electric windows.

To completely open and close the glass, you no longer need to hold down the key, but simply press it briefly. If you hold the button for a while, the window lifter will work until the button is released. The buttons in this case do not switch the circuit, as on previous models, but are a kind of sensors for the electronic unit.

Connecting the driver's door power windows is somewhat different from the connection in the passenger doors. This is due to the use of an all control module in the driver's door.

When you turn on any button on the block, a corresponding signal is generated from it, which is transmitted to the electrical package control controller via the wire connecting pin 5 of the driver's door block with pin 5 of block 3 of the double-glazed window control unit.

When troubleshooting without using diagnostic equipment, you can check the integrity or short to ground of the wire through which the signal passes and the presence of power on the driver's door module unit.

In addition to the use of electronic units in the Priora window lifter circuit, there is a feature of supplying power to the electric drive. One of the wires is multifunctional and is involved in supplying power to the heating and mirror control, as well as to the door lock solenoid.

Therefore, this wire can have either a plus or a minus, depending on which consumer is turned on. The value is controlled by the electrical package controller. On the right and left sides of the wire, pins 4 and 6 are connected separately to connector X1, respectively.

This property can be used to troubleshoot a circuit.

Priora power window diagram troubleshooting

How to find a fault in the Priora power window diagram if the passenger door power windows do not work? A malfunction of the power windows of all doors is unlikely and the reason for this will most likely be a malfunction of the electronic control unit for the power accessories.

A malfunction of the electric lifter in one of the doors is a very common breakdown, especially on early cars. And it is again associated with a malfunction of the unit, and in particular the burnout of the microcircuits that control the operation of the electric drive. The reason was a flaw in the circuit design by the manufacturer.

For the same reason, the window lifts could work jerkily. Subsequently, the block manufacturer corrected the defect, but failure of the block is still the main malfunction at the moment.

It is best to start troubleshooting by checking the functionality of the door lock on which the lift does not work. If the lock also does not work, then you need to check the presence of power or negative on the wire from the glass unit control unit, connector X1, pin 4 or 6, depending on which side you are looking for the fault.

To do this, connect the test lamp to the car body and turn on the power window in one direction or the other. Then connect the test lamp to the positive wire and repeat the operation. It is also worth checking conclusions 1, 5, 11, 13.

If the control lamp lights up in all cases, then the control unit is working properly and most likely there is a broken wire on the door or a malfunction of the electric drive. To check, you need to remove the door trim and connect a test lamp between the wires going to the electric drive.

If the foot lights up when you turn on the lift, then the electric drive is faulty, otherwise the wire is broken. If the unit malfunctions, it is necessary to find out the cause. This could be not only a manufacturing defect, but also a short circuit between the wires or to the housing.

Scheme of operation and step-by-step instructions

The window regulator on Kalina does not work, then prepare a car tool kit and we will begin. So, in addition to a toolbox, we will need a tester, which can be purchased at any auto store or market.
Considering that we will have to run, spin, and twirl near the car, we need a spacious place, for example, an area near a garage or house;
We clearly determine which glass unit is inoperative;
We open the hatch on the left side
of the steering column, as the fuse box is located there. To do this, just pry off the valve with a screwdriver;

We find under the marking F2 (30), it is he who is responsible for the operability of the double-glazed window chain and remove it;
We carry out visual diagnostics and test it with a tester. There are two options: either it is intact or it is burnt out. In the first case, the reason is not in him, in the second - in him;
Based on the decision in point 5, we carry out further actions. Apparently the fuse is intact. Let's move on to the central control unit for double-glazed windows, which is located on the driver's door;
Using a screwdriver,
we very carefully pry off the polymer cover, since it can be scratched and it will lose its aesthetic appearance, and we take out the entire board assembly. We find the switch we are interested in and check the fit of the wire terminals and the integrity of the wiring itself. Using a tester, we ring the switch to make sure it is working properly; if it shows a short circuit, then it is faulty and should be replaced;
Once the functionality has been confirmed, we move on to the last stage of the search, namely into the doorway. To do this, we remove the door trim, depending on which side we are looking for the cause. We will see a picture in front of us in the form of: the double-glazed window itself, the release and lifting mechanism and an electric motor with a bundle of wires.

Our main goal

- this means ringing the electric drive and the cable package. There is no need to dismantle the engine; everything can be done using a tester. Only when you are convinced that this is the reason, then you can begin to dismantle and replace.

This is where you can end your search.

, since there simply cannot be any other reasons. Often the main culprits are a frayed wire or a burnt-out motor due to numerous temperature changes and increased load.

In most cases, drivers are too lazy to clear the windows of snow or ice with their own hands and they resort to an automatic method. The idea is to lower the glass using an electric drive and it will move into the grooves and remove a layer of snow or ice.

Yes, this option is possible, but in this case the motor will experience an incredible load, which can lead to a wedge between the rotor and stator.

In this case, only a complete replacement of the engine, since rewinding is possible, but no one will give a guarantee of quality, accordingly, the period until the first load or voltage drop.

As a matter of fact, this concludes our consideration of the topic, the power window on Kalina does not work. We will be glad if our practical advice will help drivers in prompt and high-quality replacement of components and assemblies.

The driver's door window regulator refused to work! (I note that sooner or later, but this will happen on any Kalina) This has already happened, but after short breaks, oddly enough, it started working)))

Today he refused to work at all! You press the button, it is silent, but you can see how the voltage sags and the display on the dashboard dims! After surfing the great Internet and studying troubleshooting methods, I went to the garage!

The advice that I read, and of course my actions!

(1) To begin with, without disassembling the casing. While pressing the button, hit the place where the window motor is attached, or slam the door harder! Why is this being done: Perhaps the cable is stuck somewhere, perhaps the motor brushes are stuck, or there is a bad contact somewhere! Sometimes it helps, but nothing helped me!

We remove the door trim, everything is very simple, but if you are removing it for the first time, like me, it is better to familiarize yourself in advance with all the places where it is attached and stock up on caps, just in case (I broke one). And so the casing is removed! I was very tired of the connector going to the button, I didn’t want to get it, but still... I got it)))

(2) We check whether the button is in working condition, visually and with a multimeter we check whether there are any breaks, we check whether there is power to the window regulator! If all this is in order, remove the window regulator! So I didn’t figure out how to remove the motor itself, I had to take out the entire mechanism, there’s nothing scary about it, we unscrew all the fastenings of the mechanism and take it out! (The only thing you need to do is mark the position of the fastening screws to the glass, so that you can align them later and not adjust them!) And so the mechanism is removed!